Growing Under Glass

Pots and potting 4

Re-potting fresh soil in the base of the pot and put Hanging baskets MAINTENANCE OF CONTAINERS
Re-potting is carried out when the plant has the plant back in position. Push more fresh Baskets made from wire, without a drip-tray,
reached as large a size as is required and soil in around the sides, making sure there must be lined with sphagnum moss before If looked after, pots, tubs, boxes and other
the status quo needs to be maintained. The are no air pockets left and that the soil is the mix is added. Black polyethylene is a containers will last for many years. Once
aim is to replace some of the spent soil pushed around the roots. Firm the surface more convenient but less traditional and less plants are removed from them they should
around the rootball. Re-potting is necessary of the soil, and water. attractive lining. It must be perforated. be washed in a mild disinfectant, dried and
every year or every other year. Check the stored in a dry place. Wooden container!
cultural instructions for the plant concerned Top-dressing Use John Innes No. 2 potting compost for should be treated with a non-toxic: pre-
for advice on the frequency of re-potting. Top-dressings of fresh soil are applied to hanging baskets, as its loam base holds servative, ideally coated inside with .in
Some species resent disturbance, in which beds, borders and containers. When used moisture well. Peat-based mixes can be used asphalt paint. If metal cans are used as
case they should be top-dressed (see below). on pot plants the process of top-dressing but they tend to dry out in the exposed substitute containers, make sure that they
It is best done when the plant is resting or serves the same function as re-potting. It is environment of a basket and are hard to are painted with non-toxic paint to pre
dormant in late autumn. Remove the plant more practical than re-potting on very large re-wet. Place a layer of moss in the bottom vent rust. Some improvised plastic; con-
from its pot and reduce the size of the root- plants which are difficult to re-pot, and is of the basket and weigh it down with moist tainers will tend to become brittle under
ball by up to a quarter, using a small hand fork essential for those plants which resent the mix. Add one or two trailing plants and firm the effects of the ultra-violet component
and a sharp knife or shears to prune any disturbance of re-potting. During the dor- more mix around their roots. Proceed by of sunlight.
thick roots. On larger perennial plants such mant season, strip away the top layer of building up layers of plants and mix, pushing
as fruit trees and bushes, prune the top soil and any small roots. This must be done the trailing plants through the basket so that Clay pots are expensive to replace and
growth by the same amount as the roots. This carefully and any of the thicker roots en- they can hang down the sides. Build up the should be wired or riveted to prevent
ensures that the plant remains balanced. If countered should be left. On completion, layer of moss around the sides, keeping it breakage. Unless completely shattered,
necessary, tease out the roots from the root- fill the gap with a rich mix such as John above the level of mix at all times. Place up- broken pots can be repaired very satis-
ball using a fork or stick. Remove some of the Innes No. 3. Firm the mix carefully and right plants in the final layer of mix so that factorily with waterproof ceramic glue.
old spent soil from the rootball, without water lightly. Top-dressing is usually carried they grow upwards from the basket. Hanging Those based on epoxy resin are strong and
damaging the roots if possible. If the same out in early spring, just before the plant baskets should be replanted with fresh permanent. It is rarely possible to repair
pot is to be used, clean it well. Place some begins to grow again. material each year so potting on and re- broken plastic pots. Wooden containers
potting do not arise. can often be mended using screws or
Re-potting nails. Use greased brass screws when
assembling large wooden containers.

Remove the plant from its pot as described Trim the roots with sharp scissors, knife or If the old pot is to be used, clean it well. To strengthen a cracked clay pot, wrap
under potting on. Remove some of the shears. On larger plants, prune top Replace the rootball and add fresh soil, galvanized wire around the pot and twist
spent soil from the rootball by loosening. growth In proportion. firming well. the ends gently together. Keep cracked
pots scrupulously clean, for the cracks
can harbor dirt and pest and disease
organisms.

Growing from seed 1

One of the most satisfying aspects of garden- Growing from seed an example of the often complex dormancy board so that the soil comes level with the
ing under glass is raising plants from seed, In the wild, all flowering plants reproduce factors that are inherent in some seeds. The rim. Firm the soil down with a presser, then
cuttings or by other propagation methods. themselves by seed and in the garden too this seeds of a few plants benefit from a dry warm sow the seeds evenly and thinly.
Many plants can be raised with a minimum of is an important method of increase. It must be period because, though superficially ripe,
equipment and skill, while with practice and borne in mind, however, that many garden they are not fully mature within. Some seeds Seeds which are large enough to handle
patience the ability to cope with the more plants are of mutant or hybrid origin and have chemical inhibitors in the seedcoat either with the fingers or flat-tipped forceps
difficult plants grows quickly. may not come true to type from seeds. For which normally leach out during heavy rain- are best space-sown, that is, each seed should
such plants, vegetative propagation methods fall. Seeds in this category should be soaked be placed in position sufficiently far apart
The main methods of propagating green- are required. Make sure that home-saved in cold water for 24 to 48 hours before sowing. each way that subsequent seedlings can
house plants are by seeds and stem cuttings. seeds are from healthy plants. This simulates the natural leaching process. In develop without crowding. Larger seeds such
Less important methods are layering, offsets, Growing conditions In order to germinate general, most tropical and sub-tropical plants as sweet peas can be sown singly in batteries
bulbils, root cuttings and leaf cuttings. successfully, seeds must have moisture, air do not have these dormancy problems. If of small pots, soil blocks or peat pellets to
and a suitable temperature. The temperature there is any doubt as to when to sow seeds, save both initial pricking-off and potting. Use
Propagation equipment ranges from the they need varies widely, depending upon the particularly if home-saved, sow half when the presser again to push the seeds into the
most basic improvised tray to the sophistica- species or variety. The majority of greenhouse gathered or received and the other half the surface so they are not moved during the
tion of a mist unit. Equipment is described on plants will germinate at 15°-18oC/60o-65°F, a following spring if the first batch has not covering operation.
page 30, containers on page 51. The purpose temperature easy to maintain in a home already germinated. Alpines grown from seed
of propagation equipment is to provide the propagator. Some of the plants raised under need special treatment. See pages 88-90 on Very fine seeds such as those of begonia
optimum environment, in terms of tempera- glass for setting outside will germinate at the alpine house. and lobelia are difficult to sow evenly and are
ture, irrigation and humidity, for the plants. lower temperatures, around 10°C/50°F or best mixed with some fine dry sand to aid
Hygiene W i t h all aspects of propagating, less, while many tropical plants need Soil and containers Pre-mixed seed sowing dispersal. Fine seeds of this sort do not need
hygiene is vital. The seed sowing or rooting 24o-26°C/75o-80°F. As a rough guide, a mixes (composts) are available commercially, covering. Larger seeds should be covered
medium should be sterilized and all con- suitable germinating temperature is at least some containing loam, as in the John Innes with a layer of fine soil equal in depth to the
tainers scrubbed clean before use. Between five degrees above the minimum required by formula, while others are all peat. Both sorts longest diameter of the seed. This is best done
each batch of propagation, the case or frame the plants when growing. are suitable for most greenhouse plants. For through a fine mesh sieve.
should be washed inside with disinfectant. When to sow The best time to sow seeds details and mixtures see page 42. W h e n a few Aftercare Watering should be carried out as
(See page 32.) Check all cuttings regularly and varies with the species, but in general early plants only of each species are needed, small soon as the seeds are sown, using a fine-rosed
remove all leaves that are fallen and any spring suits most plants. The seeds of many pots or pans of 3-4 in diameter are ideal. can or by immersion. Immersion is best for
which are yellowing or browning. Take pre- hardy plants need a cool period after sowing Sowing Fill each container above the rim, tap very fine seeds as overhead watering may
cautions against damping-off disease of seed- before they will germinate properly. This is it gently on the potting bench, then strike disturb or clump them. Place the pot in a
lings (see page 33). Make sure that the stock off the surplus soil with a straight-sided bowl or deep tray filled with water so that it
plants are free from pests and diseases. comes at least halfway up the pot. As soon

Seed sowing

1 Fill a container with 2 Firm the soil with a 3 Space-sow seeds which 4 Press the seeds into the 5 Water by immersion, 6 Cover containers with a
soil mix, tap it, then presser to within \ in of the are large enough to handle surface of the soil. Cover placing the container in sheet of glass or plastic
strike off surplus soil rim. Sow the seed thinly with the fingers or a pair of with a thin layer of sieved water until the top of the and keep them away from
with a board. and evenly. forceps. soil. soil darkens. direct sunlight.

Growing from seed 2

as the surface of the soil darkens and glistens turer's instructions. Additional feeding is tainer. Push the soil gently around the root to the stage when their leaves start to over
remove the pot and place in the appropriate necessary because many seed mixes con- and firm each seedling lightly with the dibble. lap, they are ready lor potting or hardenning,
germinating temperature. tain only a phosphate fertilizer, and other off and planting out.
nutrients are necessary for healthy plant The distance apart at which seedlings
To prevent undue drying out of the soil growth. should be set varies with its size. Very small Hardening off
during the germinating period the pots seedlings such as those of begonias can be After the seedlings have been pricked off,
should be kept out of direct sunlight and Pricking off set about 1 in apart, larger ones to 2 in or they have to be gradually weaned to a stage
placed either in a propagating case or Once the seedlings are seen to be ready for more. Bedding lobelia seedlings may be at which they can be planted out and survive
covered with sheets of glass. If direct sunlight pricking off, fill pots, pans or boxes with the pricked off in groups of t w o or four to make cool temperatures, fluctuating water condi-
is likely to fall on them, they must be shaded chosen potting mix as described for seed handling easier. The equally small begonias tions and the effects of wind without their
with sheets of cardboard or newspaper to sowing. Lift the seedlings with care. If in quan- can be treated in the same way but are best growth rate being affected. This process is
prevent scorching. This covering is important, tity, small clumps should be dug out with a kept singly. To aid handling, each tiny seed- called hardening off.
for if the soil surface dries out just as the dibble or a stout wooden label, then teased ling can be picked up with a notched-tipped
seeds are germinating it can be fatal, especi- apart, taking care to handle them by the seed flat stick or plant label. Once the pricked-out seedlings have re-
ally to very small seeds. leaves only; damaged seedlings should be established, move them to a cold frame,
Germination Inspect the seed containers discarded. Once pricking off is completed, each pot, which should be kept firmly closed. Gradually
regularly and either wipe off the condensation pan or box must be watered carefully with a air the frame during the day by raising the lid,
or turn the glass over. After the first week to Where a few seedlings are growing in a fine-rosed can and returned to the same en- until the frame is open continually.
ten days, examine daily to catch the first small pot it is best to tap out all the seedlings vironment. When the seedlings have grown
signs of germination. Once the seedlings are and soil, and then to shake or tease them get under way. So, if the seed has not been
seen pushing through the soil, remove the apart. If there is little or no root branching, GERMINATION soaked before sowing, it is important that
covering and bring into good light, but shade seedlings can be left to make small plants for the soil should be watered immediately
from direct sunlight for the first week or so. direct potting later. On germination, each seed produces one after sowing.
primary root or radicle, a stem known as a
If the seed was sown too densely or more Make planting holes with a dibble, a cylin- hypocotyl, and one or two seed leaves or Once the seed has sufficiently imbibed,
seedlings appear than were expected, it is drical stick like a blunt-pointed pencil and cotyledons. Flowering plants are classi- the embryo inside the seed begins to
advisable to spray with captan or zineb as thick enough to make a hole large enough to fied by the number of seed leaves they produce root and stem systems, which
a precautionary measure against damping- take the seedling root comfortably. Dibbles produce. The monocotyledons, which in- eventually break out of the seed.
off disease. of differing thickness will be needed for seed- clude all members of the lily, amaryllis,
Feeding If seedlings are to be kept in the con- lings of varying size. Each seedling should be onion and agave families, produce one To grow, the embryo uses its food
tainer for some time, they should be given a inserted at the same depth or a little deeper usually grassy seed leaf. The dicotyledons, reserves. When oxygen is combined with
liquid fertilizer according to the manufac- than it was when growing in the original con- which include most other vegetable and carbohydrates in these food reserves, the
flower families and all the broad-leaved energy necessary for growth is produced.
Pricking off 2 Make planting holes in fresh soil with a trees and shrubs, have two, usually All growth processes within the seed are
dibble, and insert the seedlings to the rounded or oval seed leaves. chemical reactions activated by the addi-
1 Lift seedlings in clumps with a wooden correct depth. Firm the soil lightly around tion of water. To develop successfully, the
label or a dibble, then tease them apart, the roots with the dibble. There are some anomalies to this appar- seed needs an increasing quantity of
taking care to handle them by the seed ently straightforward classification. Some water, and the soil used must be capable
leaves only. members of both groups retain their seed of holding these amounts.
leaves as food stores below ground, the
first leaves to appear being true ones. As all the processes involved are basic-
Familiar examples are broad bean, sweet ally chemical reactions they will obey
pea, oak and palm. normal physical rules, the simplest of
which implies that the higher the tem-
The germination of seeds covers the perature is raised, the faster will be the
entire process, from subjecting a resting rate of the reaction. In practice, this
seed to suitable conditions to cause it to means that the warmer seeds are kept,
develop to the stage at which the seedling the quicker they will germinate. As all
produces true leaves and establishes as a these reactions are taking place in a
young plant. If a seed is subjected to the biological context, there are biological
conditions required for germination, and limitations as to how high the temperature
it fails to germinate, despite the fact that can be raised. Higher temperatures are
it is alive, then the seed is described as also more costly to maintain.
being dormant.

Water is vital to allow plant growth to

Cuttings 1

Growing from cuttings is the most popular closed cases if a mist unit is not available. TYPES OF CUTTINGS
method of vegetative propagation. Cuttings A moist but well-aerated rooting medium
are severed pieces of stem, leaf or root in- Heel cuttings can be made from soft, Mallet cuttings consist of a side-shoot and
duced to form roots and shoots and develop must be used in all cases. John Innes seed green, semi-ripe or hardwoods. Strip a a section of the main stem. They are taken
into young plants. The advantage of this compost, all-peat seed and cutting mixes, and young side-shoot away from the main from semi-ripe and hardwoods. The plug
method of vegetative propagation is that the 50/50 sand and moss peat mixture (see stem so that a strip of bark comes away. of mature wood helps prevent rotting.
every young plant will be identical with its page 42) are all suitable. For difficult plants
parent and often will flower and fruit sooner use pure sand, which must be coarse and Softwood stem cuttings are taken from the Leaf-bud cuttings can be taken from any
than a seedling. The severed piece of the well washed. There are no nutrient minerals tips of the current season's growth. Hor- type of wood. They consist of a short piece
plant is detached from its parent and has to in sand and almost none in peat, so once the mone powder is not needed, but it is good of stem with a leaf and a bud in its axil. The
survive while it develops a root and shoot cuttings start to root a proprietary liquid ferti- practice to dip the cutting in fungicide. leaf chosen must be fully mature.
system and becomes a complete plant. lizer should be used at each watering until
Therefore, it is vital to provide an environ- potting is carried out. Potting should be
ment that will induce the production of new done as soon as the cutting is well rooted.
root and shoot growth as fast as possible.
Selecting and taking cuttings
Stem cuttings Cuttings should always be taken from vigor-
Depending on the species and variety and the ous plants, which are young and healthy in
age of the plant, stem cuttings take anything themselves. If possible, the parent plant
from about ten days to several weeks to pro- should be severely pruned to encourage it to
duce roots and start to grow. The younger the produce faster-growing shoots from which
parent, the faster the cutting will root. This is a cuttings can be made. If it is anticipated that a
factor often overlooked and it must be a large number of cuttings will be taken from
major influence on the choice of plant one parent, the parent plant should be pruned
material when taking cuttings. During this hard to encourage the growth of new shoots.
period they must be kept alive and in a
healthy condition. To cut down water loss as Growth-controlling chemicals called hor-
much as possible, all leafy cuttings must be mones are responsible for the rooting of
kept in a "close" or humid propagating case cuttings. In many cuttings enough natural
or improvised container. hormone is present to initiate rooting but it is
recommended that one of the proprietary
The rate at which a stem cutting develops hormone rooting powders is used as a stan-
its roots is dependent on the temperature dard procedure. These powders also usually
around it. The higher the temperature, within contain a fungicide to combat rotting.
reason, the faster the root-triggering chemical
reaction and thus root production. However, The ability of the propagating material to
if the whole cutting is kept warm, the tip regenerate roots and shoots depends on its
should begin to grow and food will be diverted stage of development. This is particularly
from the important function of forming roots, true of woody-stemmed plants. Some root
thus weakening the cutting. Therefore, a stem best from soft shoots, others as the shoots
cutting ideally requires cool air to retard the begin to get woody at the base, and yet others
growing tip, and warm soil to encourage root when they are fully woody. Four categories of
production. development are generally recognized. These
are softwood, greenwood, semi-ripe and
The exact temperatures vary with the con- hardwood stem cuttings. The box right illus-
dition of the stem and how susceptible it is trates some of the ways of taking cuttings.
to water loss. Softwood and greenwood cut- Heel cuttings are short stems pulled away
tings require bottom heat of about 21C/70°F from the main plant. The heel is the thin sliver
and as cool an aerial temperature as practic- of plant material that tears away from the
able—a mist unit with soil heating is ideal. main stem. Mallet cuttings incorporate a
Semi-ripe and evergreen cuttings may be section of main stem on either side of the
rooted in a similar environment, although side-shoot chosen for propagation. Softwood
less bottom heat is required. Some may also and other cuttings are often taken from the
be rooted successfully in cold frames or tips of branches. Leafbud cuttings consist of
a whole leaf, bud, and short piece of stem.

Cuttings 2

Softwood stem cuttings Vigorously growing heat. Softwood cuttings are extremely choose lateral shoots as cuttings, each one will still lose some water by evaporation from
shoots of non-woody plants, or fast-growing susceptible to water loss. A mist unit thus being either sliced or gently pulled off with a their surface. The commonest reason why
tips of potentially woody stems, are used as provides a very high quality environment. downwards movement so that a sliver or heel these cuttings may fail to develop roots is
softwood cuttings. Softwood cuttings are Aim for a rooting medium temperature of of the parent stem is attached. If a tail of because they are allowed to dry out. To avoid
taken in spring or early summer. The stems 21°-24°C/70o-75°F. Spray with fungicide on tissue extends from the heel this should be cut water loss, expose as little of the cutting ,is
are best gathered in early morning when at insertion and weekly thereafter. away cleanly. If the tip of the semi-ripe cut- possible above the ground. However, it the
maximum turgidity. If the cuttings are not to Greenwood stem cuttings Greenwood cut- ting is soft it should be removed. Cut off the cutting is planted too deep, the buds will not
be used immediately, place them in a bucket tings are taken in early summer from the soft lower foliage, leaving about a third of the grow properly. Thus it is vital to expose
of water. An exception is the zonal geranium tips of the stems, just as the main flush of cutting bare. Insert them in the same way as sufficient of the cutting above ground for
which roots better after cuttings have been growth slows down but before any sort of softwood cuttings. Semi-ripe cuttings taken about three buds to develop. Keep the
left exposed and shaded for a period of woodiness is observable. They differ from in late summer should be left in the cold cuttings cool to prevent dormant buds
24 hours. softwood cuttings only in their speed of frame until the end of the following growing developing and diverting energy from the
growth. Treat them in the same way as season. Feed regularly to encourage vigor- developing roots.
Trim each shoot to 3 in long, cutting cleanly softwood cuttings, rooting them in a mist ous growth. Lift and transplant the new
just beneath a node or leaf. All leaves on the unit or a heated propagating case. plants in autumn. Leaf-bud cuttings
basal third to one half should be removed. Semi-ripe stem cuttings This category is a Leaf-bud cuttings may be taken from any of
Place a 4-6 in layer of the chosen rooting stage further from green wood, each cutting Hardwood stem cuttings This method is sel- the types of stem. Each cutting consists of a
medium in the bottom of the propagating being made from shoots which are hardening dom used under glass, though it is suitable for leaf, a bud in its leaf axil and a very short piece
case, or fill boxes or pots. If there are only a at the base. Such cuttings are taken in late bougainvillea and a few other shrubs and of stem. The leaf supplies food to support the
few cuttings of each species, 3-4 in pots summer. Semi-ripe cuttings can be rooted in climbers that have a fully dormant period. cutting and the regenerative processes; the
make best use of propagating room. This is poorer light and lower temperatures than Growth will have then ceased and the stems bud is the basis for the new stem system; and
particularly useful if several species are being softwood or greenwood cuttings, and can will be fully mature. Use 6 in pieces of mature the piece of stem is where the first roots are
propagated which have a wide range of thus be grown in a cold frame. wood which have dropped their leaves. Treat produced.
rooting times. Insert the cutting into the with hormone powder and insert them in a
rooting medium so that about one-third of Cuttings should be 4-6 in long, and it is closed frame within the greenhouse. Leave New stems produced by pruned plants
its length is in the soil, water and place often advantageous for them to have a heel about half the length of the cutting above soil have the best chance of success. Select one
in a propagating case, ideally with bottom of older wood at the base. To obtain a heel, level. Hardwood cuttings, although leafless, of these new stems with an undamaged

Softwood cuttings

1 Gather shoots from the 2 Trim each shoot to 3 in 3 Fill pots or trays with 4 Water the cuttings and 5 Spray the cuttings with 6 When the cuttings have
tips of vigorously-growing long, cutting below a node soil mix. Make planting a dilute fungicide on rooted, gradually reduce
plants. If possible, take or leaf. Remove leaves from holes with a dibble and place in a propagating case planting and weekly bottom heat and when they
cuttings in the early the bottom third of the insert the cuttings. thereafter. Label the have hardened off pot using
morning. cutting. or mist unit. The rooting containers. John Innes No. 1 compost.

medium should be kept at
21o-24°C/70o-75°F.

Cuttings 3

mature leal, insure that there is a viable bud on the opposite side of the stem from the bud. insertion. If they are inserted vertically, make in the bottom of the stem of plants that are
in the leaf axil. Label the pot and stand it on a greenhouse sure they are the same way up as when difficult to root. Dip the base of the cutting in
growing on the plant. Each cutting will have rooting hormone powder. Ensure the cut
Cut close above the bud so that as small a bench or in a closed case—the higher the several incipient buds, one to three of which surface is covered with the powder.
snag as possible is left. This minimizes the temperature, the faster will be the rate of may grow into aerial shoots.
likelihood of rotting and die-back. Make the regeneration. Plant the cutting up to its leaves in a cold
basal cut about 1-11/2 in below the top cut so Evergreen cuttings frame or mist unit. Allow the leaves of cuttings
that sufficient stem is available to anchor the Water the cutting to prevent it drying out. Evergreen cuttings are taken from stems of to touch but not to overlap.
cutting firmly in the growing medium. Apply Do not overwater during the winter when very ripe wood. Unlike hardwood cuttings
a rooting hormone. Insert the cutting with the cutting is dormant, as the soil will they are not leafless and are not fully dormant Aim for cool, moist conditions by shading
its bud level with the soil surface. Place readily waterlog, causing the cutting to rot because of their evergreen habit. Because the frame until light intensity becomes lower
cuttings of the more hardy plants in a cold and die. Harden off the cutting once it has they have leaves, the cuttings need extra care in winter. Leave frame-grown cuttings in place
frame and cuttings of less hardy plants in a rooted, and transplant in spring. Label it. to prevent excessive water loss. for the whole of the next growing season. Pot
well-lit protected environment such as a mist on mist-unit cuttings in spring, taking care not
unit or closed case. It may be necessary to Stem sections Take evergreen cuttings, from a pruned to damage the roots.
support large-leaved plants such as Ficus A few greenhouse plants, notably Dietlen- plant if possible, during later summer to early
elastica with a short length of cane inserted bachia (dumb cane), Dracaena and Cordyline, autumn; rooting will normally take place Evergreen plants can be propagated from
next to each cutting to prevent it toppling. become leggy with age, the lower stem be- during winter. Evergreen cuttings taken in softer wood earlier in the growing season.
The cane can be inserted through the rolled coming leafless. W h e n the plant becomes late summer should be 4 - 6 in long. Take a Treat these cuttings according to the con-
leaf, which is itself secured by a rubber band. unattractive it can be cut back to just above heel with the cutting if it is to be propagated dition (soft, green wood or semi-ripe wood) of
Vine eyes Vine eyes are the hardwood soil level. Sever the top of the removed stem in unsterilized soil in a cold frame or poly- their stems.
equivalent of leaf-bud cuttings taken while and use it as an evergreen cutting. Cut the ethylene tunnel. Neaten any tail on the heel.
the grape vine, or other woody plant, is leaf- remaining bare stem into 11/2-2 in lengths Leave on the cutting any terminal bud that Conifers
less. Prepare the vine eyes as described above. and insert these stem section cuttings verti- may have formed. If, however, growth is c o n - Some conifers, but not most spruces, pines
Insert them horizontally with the bud just cally with the top flush with the soil, or tinuing, cut out the soft tip with a knife. Strip and firs, can be propagated from cuttings.
above the soil surface. If this method is chosen horizontally and completely covered by the leaves off the bottom third of the cutting. Either a warm environment such as a propa-
it will aid rooting if a sliver of bark is removed about 1/2 in of the rooting medium. It is advis- Make a shallow vertical wound about 1 in long gating case or a cold frame can be used.
able to dip the sections into a fungicide before Select young, actively-growing shoots and
Evergreen cuttings take cuttings in autumn and winter.

1 In late summer, take heel 2 Trim the heel, pinch out 3 Make a shallow 1 in cut 4 Mix peat, grit and sand 5 Shade the frame and 6 The following autumn,
cuttings of the current the growing tip and remove into cold-frame soil. Plant water well. In winter, transplant the rooted
season's growth, from a leaves from the lower third at the base of the stem. the cuttings in the frame up insulate the frame against cuttings, taking care not to
pruned plant if possible. of the cutting. Dip the cut area in rooting to their leaves. Do not frost if necessary. damage the fragile roots.
Rooting is in winter. hormone powder. allow leaves to overlap. Label the plants.

Leaves 1

Some greenhouse and house plants will Leaves of plants such as Begonia rex can be Choice of leaves Young yet fully developed up a mix of equal parts silted peat and grit
develop plantlets on their leaves. In some cut into squares which will, given correct leaves should be chosen. If the leaf is still Fill a container and firm the mix to within
cases this is done naturally, in others leaves conditions, each produce a plantlet. Succu- growing, its energy will go into developing 1/4 - 3/4 in of the rim. Cut the chosen leal from
are detached, treated in much the same way lents and some bulbs have the capacity to fully. This will delay the generation of new the parent plant with a clean sharp knife
as cuttings, and the plantlets which develop produce plantlets from leaf sections. plant life in the form of plantlets. Since a About 2 in of stalk should be attached to the
grown on. Although only a small range of leaf is unsupported by a root system, any leaf. Using a dibble, insert the petiole at a
plants can be grown from leaves, this range Foliar embryos delay can be a source of problems. Select shallow angle in the mix. Firm the mix gently
includes many of the most popular such as A few plants develop plantlets naturally. leaves that are complete, normal and un- around the petiole. The leaf should be almost
Begonia rex and the African violet Saintpaulia Examples are Tolmiea menziesii, the pig-a- damaged, and free from pests and diseases. flat on the surface of the mix so that the
ionantha. back plant, and Mitella. Some plants release It is possible to take leaf cuttings all the year stalk is in the topmost layer of the cuttings
their plantlets naturally, on others the plant- round, so long as young complete leaves are mix, where air can penetrate. Insert the
Types of leaf cuttings lets have to be separated from the parent available. remaining cuttings, label them and water with
plant. a dilute fungicide.
The simplest form of leaf cutting is a complete Planting and aftercare Use a cuttings mix
leaf with a stalk. Such leaf-petiole cuttings Propagation conditions made up of equal parts of sand and grit. The leaf cuttings will need an a t m o s p h e r e
can be taken at any season when a complete Leaf cuttings of all sorts are vulnerable to When taking the leaves from the parent of high humidity, such as that produced in a
young leaf is available. Midrib cuttings make moisture loss and therefore must be kept in plant, use a sharp knife or razor blade. Always heated propagating case. Bottom heat,
use of the fact that a leaf midrib is an exten- a closed propagator, or under a glass sheet spray or water leaf cuttings with a fungicide maintaining a temperature of 20*C/68*F, is
sion of a leaf-stalk and is able to regenerate or polyethylene tent. Bottom heat best on planting. If the plantlets are slow to ideal. The cuttings must have sufficient light
in the same way. Propagation by midrib provides the warm, humid conditions re- develop, foliar feeding may be necessary. to develop, but should be shaded from direct
cuttings is most successful from plants quired The most common cause of failure in Do not feed until plantlet growth has begun. sunlight.
having leaves with a single central vein, leaf propagation is rotting of the leaf before
such as Streptocarpus. Lateral vein cuttings it has a chance to become established. Taking leaf-petiole cuttings In about 5 - 6 weeks, plantlets should begin
develop on the side-veins of a leaf after the Hygiene is thus vital. All propagating equip- Leaf-petiole cuttings can be taken at any to develop on the leaf stalk. Several may
midrib has been cut out. Leaf slashing ment and containers should be clean, and time of the year when new leaves are avail- appear on each stalk, though the number is
involves the growth of plantlets from cuts soil should be sterile. able. Choose an undamaged leaf which has variable. The number of plantlets that appear
made in a leaf without a central main vein. recently expanded to its mature size. Make on each stalk is smaller than the number that
each leaf will produce using leaf squares of
Taking leaf-petiole cuttings

1 Cut an undamaged, fully 2 Insert the stalk at a 3 Spray the cuttings with a 4 Place the flat of cuttings 5 Alternatively, place a few 6 Pot on the plantlets once
grown young leaf from the shallow angle in a flat of dilute fungicide as soon as in a propagating case at cuttings in a 3 in pot. they are large enough to
parent plant. Cut near the cuttings mix. Firm the they are inserted. 20°C/68°F. Shade lightly to Cover with a polyethylene handle. Harden off by
base, and trim the stalk to mix gently around the protect the cuttings from bag supported on wire. reducing heat and increasing
about 2 in. stalk. direct sun. Place in a warm, light room. ventilation.

Leaves 2

leal slashing. When the plantlets are suffi- Monocot leaves Taking leaf square cuttings 2 Lay the leaf face d o w n on 3 Place the leaf squares 1/2 in
ciently large to be handled, pot them on into Some plants have monocotyledonous leaves, a sheet of clean glass. Cut apart on the surface of a
|ohn Innes No. 1 or equivalent. Liquid that is, leaves with a series of parallel veins 1 Carefully cut a large fully the leaf into squares, each flat of damp soil in a warm,
feeding may be necessary if the plantlets running along the length of the leaf. Such grown young leaf from the about 3/4 in across. humid environment.
have to remain in the original cuttings plants include bulbous species such as parent plant, cutting near
mix for any length of time. The popular hyacinth and snowdrop, and succulents the base. 5 Harden off young 6 Pot on the plantlets
African violet, Saintpaulia ionantha, is often such as Sansevieria (mother-in-law's tongue). plantlets by increasing when they are large enough
propagated from leaf-petiole cuttings. Other Leaves from bulbous plants are delicate and 4 Spray the cuttings with ventilation and reducing to handle John Innes No. 1
plants that respond to the method are should be handled as little as possible. dilute fungicide. Shade from temperature. or equivalent.
begonias (other than Begonia rex), Peperomia direct sunlight.
caperata, and P. metallica. Take a mature leaf and cut into 1 in sections
across the veins, using a sheet of glass and a
Taking leaf square cuttings sharp blade as described above for leaf
Unlike the leaf-petiole method, the leaf squares. Insert the cuttings vertically in
square cuttings technique allows a large cuttings soil or mix. Spray with fungicide and
number of plants to be propagated from a place in a warm (21°C/70°F), humid environ-
single leaf. It is mainly used to propagate ment.
Begonia rex and related species.
New leaves used for propagation from
Take a fully expanded, undamaged young bulbs in spring will take four to six weeks to
leaf from the parent plant. Lay it face down on produce plantlets. Pot up the plantlets once
a sheet of clean glass and cut the leaf into a they are large enough to handle.
series of squares. Each piece should be
roughly 3/4 in square. Be careful not to crush Grafting
the leaves when cutting. Prepare a flat of Grafting is not a common method of pro-
cuttings soil and firm it to within 1/4-3/8 in of pagation in the amateur greenhouse, though
the rim, water it well and lay the leaf squares it is used by professionals and in the open
on the soil surface, face upwards and about garden to propagate shrubs, roses and fruit
j in apart. Label and spray with a dilute trees. The main purpose of grafting is to
fungicide. Do not water leaf squares, but replace the rootstock of a given plant with
irrigate if necessary by standing the flat in another, compatible rootstock. This can
a bath of water. have the effect of restricting the growth of
the plant, conferring resistance to disease, or
Place the flat of cuttings in a closed promoting vigorous growth. The process is
propagating case with bottom heat and not technically difficult, and grafting can
keep them at a temperature of 18-21°C/65- form an enjoyable area for experiment. Full
70°F. Avoid direct sunlight, but allow the details may be found in the companion
cuttings enough light to begin development. volume in this series, Plant Propagation.
Plantlets should begin to appear after 5-6
weeks. They should not be detached from MIDRIB CUTTINGS
the leaf square and potted on until they are
large enough to handle. Gradually harden off Leaves with pronounced central ribs can
the plantlets by admitting air to the pro- be used as propagation material in the
pagating case and reducing the temperature. same way as whole leaves with stalk
Leaf slashing Begonia rex can also be pro- attached. The midrib is an extension of
pagated by leaf slashing, a technique similar the stalk, and when cut into sections
to propagation from leaf squares. Choose a plantlets will develop from the cut sur-
large mature leaf, lay it on a sheet of glass, faces of the rib, given the correct condi-
and instead of cutting it into squares, make tions. Cut leaves of Gloxinia, Streptocarpus
3/4 in cuts across the leaf veins. Aim for one cut and similar plants into 1 1/2 in sections.
every square inch. Place the leaf face up on Insert vertically in flats of soil and treat
damp soil, and secure it with a wire staple. as leaf square cuttings. Plantlets should
Treat as leaf squares above. Plantlets will appear in 5-6 weeks.
develop at the cuts.

Other propagation methods 1 Air layering the moss in place with a square of black
While cuttings are induced to form roots after polyethylene wrapped around to form a tube
Air layering being detached from the parent plant, air and fixed in place with tape. The black poly
layering is a technique which induces the ethylene will keep in moisture, keep out light
1 In spring, trim leaves and side-shoots 2 Apply hormone power to the cut. growth of roots on stems still attached to the and maintain the correct warm, moist en
from the chosen stem. Girdle by cutting Squeeze a ball of wet sphagnum moss parent. Its main use in the greenhouse is to vironment for root formation and growth,
off a 1/3 in ring of bark with a sharp knife. around the girdled stem. propagate Ficus elastica, though it can also be Aftercare and potting Air-layered plants will
used on citrus trees and on shrubs. normally take at least a growing season to
establish themselves. Towards the end of the
Air layering is carried out in spring or late dormant season after the first growing season,
summer on growths of the current season prune back any new growth above the
that are becoming woody. The necessary layered section. Cut the stem just below the
conditions for root formation are restriction bottom of the polyethylene-clad section and
of the chosen stem and the exclusion of light. carefully remove the polyethylene and the
The roots thus stimulated are encouraged by tape. The moss should be combined with
damp, moist conditions. the new roots to form a rootball. Cut away
Preparing a stem Trim off the leaves and side- the section of stem below the new roots,
shoots of a straight stem to between 6 and slightly loosen the rootball and plant < art-
12 in from the tip. Girdle the stem with a sharp fully in a pot of John Innes No. 1 or equivalent
knife and apply hormone powder. Firm gently to avoid damaging the roots.
Applying the rooting medium Sphagnum
moss, which is well aerated and holds mois- Bulb scaling
ture, is the best rooting medium. Soak a hand- Bulbs increase naturally by producing bulb-
ful of moss thoroughly and squeeze it to lets or offsets but this method is slow. A faster
remove excess moisture. W o r k it into an method of propagation is bulb scaling. This
interwoven ball of fibers 2-3 in in diameter, can be done with lily and f ritillary bulbs. These
split and place around the girdled stem. Hold

3 Wrap a square of black polyethylene 4 Towards the end of the following dormant 5 Then cut the stem below the poly- 6 Pot into John Innes No. 1 or equivalent,
around the moss ball. Secure top and bottom season, prune any new growth above the ethylene. Remove the polyethylene, taking firm in gently and place in the greenhouse
with tape. Leave for a growing season. layered portion. care not to damage the delicate new roots. until new growth begins.

Other propagation methods 2

bulbs have relatively narrow scale leaves Division Bulb scaling
which can be readily pulled off the bulb's I he garden technique of propagating peren-
basal plate, nials by division is practiced in the green- 1 In autumn, remove scale leaves from the
house. Mature plants which have become too outside of bulbs. Cut only a few scale leaves
lake scales from fresh, healthy bulbs, large can be divided, as can those fibrous- from each bulb. Dust with fungicide powder.
preferably in October or November. Cut only crowned plants which become woody in the
a few scale leaves from each bulb. Treat all center and only produce new growth at the
scales with a fungicide such as captan by edges. Dahlias and tuberous begonias can be
shaking them in a bag with fungicide powder. divided but grow better from cuttings or seed.
Place the scales in sterile cuttings mixture or
damp vermiculite and seal the whole in a Greenhouse plants that can be divided in-
plastic bag. Store at 21°C/70°F until, in about clude arums, ferns, and some orchids. Plants
6-8 weeks, bulblets develop at the base of with fibrous crowns should be divided im-
the detached scales. When the bulblets mediately after flowering. Remove the plant
appear, plant the scale leaves, with the bulb- from its pot and dip the rootball in a bucket
lets, in pots of potting mix or soil. Plant them of water. Then gently pull the crown into
vertically with the tips just above the soil pieces of the required size. Tough crowns can
mix. Water sparingly, and keep at 21°C/70°F be cut with a knife. Make sure that each piece
until leaves are produced. At the end of the has a good eye or bud. Trim the long snoots
season, after the leaves have died down, lift on the divided segments to balance the top-
and separate the new bulbs, potting on or growth and roots and lessen water loss. Plant
replanting them at once. in pots and water well.

2 Place the scale leaves in a plastic bag
containing damp vermiculite or an equal
mixture of damp peat and grit. Blow up the
bag, seal it and put it in a w a r m dry place.

All material propagated—seeds, leaves or Alternatively, paint a strip at the end of a 3 Six-eight weeks later, when bulblets 4 Place the pots in a w a r m (21°C/70°F) well-
cuttings—must be labeled. Otherwise it is seed flat white to form a writing surface appear at the base, plant the scales upright lit place. New leaves will appear in spring.
very easy to lose track of what plants are. (b). W h e n the flat is re-used a new layer of in John Innes No. 1 or equivalent and Harden off, and in a u t u m n lift and separate
The label should show the date of sowing white paint can be applied to obliterate cover the mix with grit. the bulbs. Replant as soon as possible.
or propagation, the species and the variety. the label and provide a new writing sur-
Other information such as the source of face.
the propagating material or reminders of
the conditions required may be added. Mature plants can have labels attached
to the stem. These can be made of plastic
Labels can simply be wood, plastic or or light metal (c). Hand machines are avail-
metal tags (a). Data can be written on these able which print labels on strips of plastic
tags using a soft lead pencil or wax crayon. or punch letters onto lead strips (d).

The year in a cold greenhouse 1

The year in a cold greenhouse than a protective covering against extremes and biennials can be raised from seed in the degrees above normal; this heat surplus not
This calender details sowing and harvesting of cold, wet and wind. A cold greenhouse can predictable conditions a cold greenhouse only acts as a cushion against the rapid drop
times for basic cold greenhouse crops and form a vital and interesting adjunct to the offers, and various propagation techniques in temperature as night falls, but also im-
lists planting, sowing and potting on times garden provided its limitations are recognized carried out. proves the growing atmosphere. Some of the
for ornamentals. and the plants to be grown carefully selected. surplus heat is absorbed by the soil, paths
Despite the lack of artificial heat, the and structure generally, moderating night
Regular tasks such as watering, feeding, The most important limitation of the cold gardener has various techniques available to temperatures as it is given off into the cooling
damping down, shading and ventilating are greenhouse is that of temperature. In winter, allow him to alter the environment of a cold air. This mechanism is exploited by several
not listed every month. The timing of these if the outside temperature drops to around greenhouse. The basic principles explained solar heating systems
procedures is to a large extent dependent 7°C/20°F it is likely that there will be several in the section on Running the Greenhouse
upon day to day conditions and on the crops degrees of frost inside the greenhouse. It is (pages 32-33), apply here, though with the At all times the aim is to produce a buoyant
being grown. Follow the instructions given wise to recognize this and to avoid trying narrow tolerance of many cold greenhouse atmosphere, one in which the air within the
under individual crops, and act according to to over-winter plants which are not frost- plants extra care is needed. greenhouse is moving up and around rather
the basic principles discussed in the first two hardy. It is possible to give protection against Ventilation The most effective method of than lying stagnant.
sections of this book. frost by plunging pots and covering plants temperature control available is ventilation. Air movement The circulation of air is a vital
with polyethylene or burlap, but these pro- In very cold conditions it can be colder in the factor in cold greenhouse management. Even
Pest and disease control is another regular vide limited defense against severe frosts. greenhouse than outside if the doors and in a closed-up cold house in winter, imperfec-
task that must be attended to whenever lower ventilators are not opened for a few tions in glazing can allow air to escape suf-
problems arise. The worst period for pests is Conditions and choice of plants hours in the middle of the day. Cold air is ficiently fast to give two complete air changes
from April to October, but problems such as A cold greenhouse will suit those plants that heavy and collects in a pool at ground level, per hour. In high summer well-ventilated
whitefly and red spider mite can appear in are hardy outdoors, and will in most cases but will flow out if given the chance. greenhouses can have 120 air changes per
any of the 12 months. Follow the instructions allow them to be grown better. It also suits hour, which helps to keep internal tempera-
on pages 33-40 for the control of pests and annuals, including fruits and vegetables, Most ventilation is concerned with trap- tures close to those outside. If through a
diseases. which are half-hardy outdoors. A cold green- ping solar heat. Once outside temperatures deficiency in ventilation air changes drop to
house can extend the growing season at start to rise in spring, ventilators should be 30-40 per hour, summer greenhouse tem-
Using a cold greenhouse either end, allowing crops to be taken earlier opened a little in the morning and closed peratures can rise as high as 43°C/110°F, to
A cold greenhouse is one which possesses no and later than outdoors. Ornamental annuals some hours before sunset. This regime may the detriment of plants.
form of artificial heat. It is, in effect, no more well cause the thermometer to rise five

January February March April May June

Plan the year's crops and order Ventilate as necessary. Water Sow lettuce, celery, carrots, Sow according to needs: lettuce, Plant eggplants, sweet peppers, Harvest lettuce, radish, endive,
seeds and seedlings. Ventilate the sparingly. mustard and cress. radish, mustard and cress, beets, okra and cucumber, melons. mustard and cress, beans, parsley.
greenhouse on sunny days. Sow lettuce, early bunching turnips, Sow in heat: eggplants, sweet endive, parsley. Sow sweetcorn, Harvest early carrots, early Continue to sow biennials. Pot on
Sow onions for transplanting. Sow carrots, parsnips and early beets peppers, dwarf beans, tomatoes if celeriac, dwarf French beans, bunching turnips, beets. cyclamen seedlings.
early radishes in soil borders or (until March), bulb onions (until not sown in February. cucumbers. Plant out tomatoes after last Take cuttings of pinks. Plunge
peat pots. April). Sow tomatoes in heat later Prick out lettuce seedlings. Pot out Harvest early radishes and lettuce, frost. azaleas outside and feed every
Bring in plunged bulbs to flower in in the month. late in month. chicory, seakale and rhubarb. Harden off bedding plants and 14 days.
the greenhouse (Babiana, Bring potted strawberries in to crop Sow for transplanting: broad beans, Complete sowing half-hardy plant out after frosts have ended.
Chionodoxa, Crocus, daffodils, in late spring. runner beans, brassicas, leeks, annuals. Sow biennials for spring Take cuttings from regal
Fritillaria, Iris, Leucojum, Bring in remaining plunged bulbs to celery, peas, sweetcorn, chives, flowering under glass. Prick out pelargoniums. Sow Calceolaria,
Ornithogalum.) replace those which have finished thyme. March-sown seedlings. Begin to Freesia, Schizanthus for winter
flowering. Continue to bring in pot harden off bedding plant seedlings. flowering.
Bulbs which have finished flowering Pot on and divide ferns if necessary. strawberries. Take fuchsia cuttings, pot rooted
can be planted out into frames. Pot on over-wintered coleus, Sow half-hardy annuals and alpines. dahlia and other cuttings. Pot up
Sow lily seed. Begin sequence of fuchsias and pelargoniums. Pot on over-wintered annuals. Take tuberoses for flowering. Start
chrysanthemum cuttings later in Sow and place in a propagating pelargonium and dahlia cuttings. feeding camellias.
the month. case: Abutilons, tuberous and Plant out rooted cuttings taken in
fibrous begonias, Coleus, Celosias, winter. Plant hippeastrum bulbs in
Gloxinias, Streptocarpus. pots.
Pot on annuals sown in autumn.
Re-pot evergreen azaleas.

The year in a cold greenhouse 2

Excessive summer temperatures can be winter weather, is better than that of outdoor Over-wintering Successful over-wintering is for a large part of the year. These plants can
reduced by damping down floors and walls plants. Blooms are more spectacular as wind more likely if certain precautions are taken. be used as the main display or to fill in gaps
with city water, which rarely rises above a and rain damage is not a problem. During the coldest spells, plants must be kept between non-flowering permanent plants or
temperature of 10LC/50"F. Damping down on the dry side. It is best that the roots do not fruit and vegetable crops. Hardy annuals can
also promotes a degree of humidity enjoyed Alpines and similar plants can also be freeze for these are often more tender than be sown in late summer or early autumn. They
by most plants. Excessive transpiration caused grown in an unheated greenhouse, but they the tops. Ground level beds should be deeply will over-winter well in a cold greenhouse and
by very dry, hot conditions gives a severe require conditions which preclude the growth mulched with bracken or straw and the bases flower late the following spring, well ahead of
check to plant growth. Shading, used in con- of many other plants. The running of an of shrubs and climbers wrapped. Large pots their normal season. This technique can be
junction with ventilation, is also important in alpine house is described on pages 88-90. and tubs must be wrapped either with straw, used for hardy biennials, but these need to be
controlling summer conditions. For full de- glass fiber, or any other approved insulating sown in early summer and may be grown
tails of shading and ventilation practice, see Many food crops can be grown in a cold material that can be secured in place with outside or in an open cold frame until late
pages 14-16. house, providing cash saving over shop netting or burlap and wire twine. Smaller autumn. Routine seed sowing and pricking
prices and often produce of a higher quality. pots are best plunged in peat or sand. off into flats or pans is all that annuals and
Thus the management of a cold green- Tomatoes, the most popular crop, are covered biennials initially require (see pages 55-56).
house is an amalgam of attention to ventila- in detail on pages 70-71. The following pages Winter sets limitations on what can be Thereafter place the young plants singly into
tion, atmospheric moisture, warmth and also detail the cultivation of fruits and other grown permanently in the unheated green- 5 in pots, or space three out into 6 or 7 in con-
light. Holding the environmental balance is a salad and vegetables. Another aspect of house. From about mid-spring to late autumn tainers. A fairly rich soil mix is recom-
complicated art in which experience is an garden food production that a greenhouse the full range of cool greenhouse plants thrive mended, a John Innes potting No. 2 being
important factor. can assist is the raising of seedlings for trans- happily. From late spring to early or mid- very satisfactory. Once the young plants are
planting outdoors. This frees the gardener autumn even warm greenhouse plants suc- 3-4 in tall, pinch out their tips to encourage
Plants for the cold greenhouse from dependence on commercially raised ceed. With a heated propagating case, such branching and a more bushy habit. As soon
Most annuals, biennials and shrubs, provided plants, and makes the growing of unusual plants can be over-wintered. as they are growing more strongly, in late
they are hardy, can be successfully over- vegetables, and the obscurer varieties of winter or early spring, commence liquid
wintered in a cold house. The advantage of common ones, possible. As with flowers, the Flowering plants from seed feeding and repeat at 10-14 day intervals.
doing so is that they flower two to three weeks quality of crops grown under glass will be A wide range of hardy and tender annuals At about this time, insert twiggy sticks or
earlier than plants grown outdoors. Their higher than those grown outdoors, due to and biennials is readily available to provide canes for support. For full details, see page 55.
condition, not having had to contend with the lack of weather damage. This is especially color and interest in the cold greenhouse
true of salad crops and strawberries.

July August September October November December

Harvest sweet peppers, lettuce, Sow lettuce, radishes, mustard and Sow lettuce, radishes, mustard and Sow lettuce for crops in spring. Sow onions for transplanting. Harvest chicory.
radishes, mustard and cress, cress, winter endive. cress, alpine strawberries. Plant fruit trees. Box up rhubarb crowns, chicory Bring in remaining plunged bulbs
parsley, tomatoes left in the Sow cyclamen seeds. Take fuchsia Plant late in month: apricots, Continue to pot up and blanch and remaining seakale. Insulate for spring flowering.
greenhouse. cuttings, pot on half-ripe cuttings. peaches, grape vines. seakale. boxes if necessary. Take advantage of quiet period to
Take hydrangea cuttings. Harvest lettuces, parsley, radishes, Bring in tender bedding perennials Bring in pots of herbs for winter do cleaning and maintenance jobs
Take half-ripe cuttings. mustard and cress. for over-wintering. supply. on greenhouse and equipment.
Lift seakale roots late in month, Repeat sowings of annuals. Prick Plant grape vines.
pot up and blanch. out annuals sown in September. Cut back chrysanthemums to 6 in
Sow hardy annuals for spring Pot on biennials. Sow sweet peas. after flowering to encourage
flowering under glass. Over-winter chrysanthemum stools growth for cuttings. Prick out
Pot on hardy biennials for spring and dahlia tubers. October-sown sweet peas. Pot on
flowering. annuals. Bring plunged bulbs into
the greenhouse as shoots appear.
Bring in evergreen azaleas, pot-
grown chrysanthemums. Plant
bulbous irises and hyacinths in
pots.

Fruits

A told greenhouse can be used to grow a to give plants the maximum possible light. It Melons 2 Stretch wires along the sides 1 ft apart
variety of fruit (Tops, the best c h o k e being will be difficult for plants to thrive, and for and 15 in from the glass. Tie in t w o canes
melons, strawberries, grapes, peaches, apri- fruit to ripen, if plants in pots are shaded b) 1 Prepare a soil mix of 2 oz steamed per plant, one from soil to eaves, the other
cots and nectarines. The more stable environ- a thick vine or a vigorous peach. bonemeal and 2 oz compound fertilizer to from the eaves to the house ridge. In May
ment of the greenhouse, and the protection Training and support Except for strawberries one 2 gal bucketful of soil. Place this on top plant the seedlings raised in heat.
it affords, allows the production of earlier, all the types of fruit suggested for the cold of the border soil in a ridge 1 ft high.
more reliable fruit crops compared with out- greenhouse will need some system of wire; 4 Thin the fruit to four of t h e same size per
door culture, especially in districts with on which they can be trained and this should 3 As the plants grows tie stems to canes plant when fruits are walnut-sized. Water
cooler than average summer temperatures. be combined with a support system. Always and laterals to the horizontal wires. Pinch the plants very well and liquid feed them
The greatest limitation of the cold green- remember to arrange the training system out the growing point when plant is 6 ft every 7-10 days. As fruits enlarge support
house for growing fruit is that many of the before planting because inserting wires be- tall. Pinch back side shoots to two leaves them with netting slings.
crops, but particularly grapes, peaches, apri- hind growing plants is not only difficult but beyond each flower. Increase ventilation.
cots and nectarines, take up a great deal of can lead to damage.
space. If possible, it may be best to devote a
whole greenhouse to fruit culture but if this Ventilation
is not practical, select fruit that will not The exact needs of fruit crops vary in detail
occupy the whole house or block light from but good ventilation is essential. Peaches, for
other plants. Alternatively, cultivate plants example, ideally need ventilation from the
in pots to restrict their growth to manageable roof and sides of the house. W h e n growing a
proportions. crop that takes up a good deal of space in
the greenhouse always make sure that the
Choosing a greenhouse growth of the plant does not interfere with
I or small-growing crops such as melons and the ventilation system or make window;
strawberries a house of conventional dimen- difficult to open.
sions will be suitable but a larger house is
necessary to accommodate other fruit ade- For full details of cultural practices see the
quately unless they are grown in pots. When volume Fruit in this series.
choosing a greenhouse for growing fruit
remember that a vigorous grape vine will CULTIVATION
need a border at least 8 ft long and that a
peach, apricot or nectarine will require a Grapes Construct a training system of
greenhouse with a wall or glass sides at least horizontal wires 9 in apart and 15 in from
12 ft high. When selecting a greenhouse for the glass. Plant in November in well-
fruit growing follow all the general principles drained porous border soil containing
described on pages 12-13. Fruit trees should loam, peat and grit with added base
be grown against a south-facing wall. fertilizer and limestone. Water to give a
thorough soaking in early spring. Mulch.
Planting Keep the soil thoroughly damp, watering
Vines, peaches and their relations and melons every 7-10 days in hot weather, and re-
can all be planted direct into the border soil duce watering as fruit ripens. Ventilate
of the greenhouse, which should be prepared from January to March then close the
according to the individual requirements of vents until May or when the air tempera-
each crop. Strawberries, however, are best ture exceeds 18°C/64°F.
cultivated in pots or barrels. If space is Peaches, apricots and nectarines Con-
limited it is also possible to cultivate grapes, struct a training system of wires placed
peaches, apricots and nectarines—and even 10 in apart and 10 in from the glass. Plant
plums, apples, pears and cherries—in pots, in October in border soil enriched with
although for the last four of these it is essen- peat and add lime at 1 lb per sq yd. Mulch.
tial to select varieties grown on dwarfing Water well after planting and from the
rootstocks. Container culture has the added time growth starts. Ventilate during the
advantage that it is possible to provide day only after fruit has set. Close the house
exactly the right type of soil but it is important at night.

Tomatoes 1

Tomatoes are an excellent choice of crop for Pricking out When the seedlings have de- growing bags or straw bales (for full details roof at one end and to the stem of the plant,
a cold greenhouse for they are tender plants veloped their first true leaves 10-12 days after see page 46). If plants are to be grown directly under the lowest true leaf, at the other, Each
that profit greatly from the protection glass sowing, carefully prick them out singly into in greenhouse soil, double dig and enrich plant is then twisted loosely round the string
affords. A heated propagating case can be individual 3 in peat or plastic pots filled with a the lower spade depth with well-rotted com- as it grows. Take care not to damage the plant
used in a cold greenhouse to provide the proprietary potting soil or mix. Insert a small post or manure. For pot or ring culture fill pots stem by pulling the string too tight. Alter
added heat necessary for raising plants from dibble beneath the roots of each seedling and with John Innes No. 2 or 3 or an equivalent natively, plants in pots or grown entirely in
seed. All greenhouse-grown tomatoes need hold the seedling by its leaves to prevent mix. Plant tomatoes when the young plants greenhouse soil may be loosely tied to
careful attention to watering, feeding and damage. Use the dibble to make a hole big are 6 to 9 in tall. This is usually when the bamboo canes for support.
care in controlling pests and diseases. enough to take each seedling without re- flowers on the first truss are just opening.
stricting its roots. Water the seedlings gently Immediately before planting, water plants Watering and feeding
Raising tomato plants to firm the soil round their roots and replace thoroughly and destroy any plants that show The success of greenhouse-grown tomatoes
Without the use of a heated propagating case them in the propagator. signs of disease. Make a hole in the chosen depends on meticulous attention to watering
it is usually best to purchase tomato plants Temperature control Keep the seedlings at growing medium big enough to accom- and feeding throughout the life of the plant.
rather than raise them from seed. Choose 18°C/65°F until they begin to shade each modate the roots without crowding. Place Plants will be damaged by drying out which
strong plants with no trace of disease. other, then turn the thermostat down to the top of each rootball level with the soil causes flower drop, or waterlogging which is
Seed sowing Seed may be sown in a heated 16°C/60°F. About a week before planting, surface. Plants raised in peat pots should be a particular hazard for plants grown in iso-
propagating case in early January for plant- reduce the temperature to 10°C/50°F. Apply made thoroughly wet before planting (tear lated systems such as growing bags, for it
ing eight weeks later. Sow seed thinly in a balanced liquid feed (see page 41) and sup- down one side of the pot wall if necessary to quickly kills off plant roots. Plants in growing
John Innes No. 1 compost placed directly in port plants with a small cane if they become prevent drying out) and planted complete bags will only thrive if the growing medium is
the case or in flats or pans which are placed too tall to support themselves. with the pot. Space plants about 18 in apart kept uniformly moist, which may mean water-
in it. Seeds sown too thickly are likely to each way. Give planted tomatoes a thorough ing three or four times a day in hot weather.
suffer from damping-off diseases. Set the Planting watering in and keep them moist to make Ring culture also demands much water be-
propagator thermostat to 18°C/65°F. At this While seedlings are maturing, decide which sure the roots become well established. cause drainage is very rapid. The most stable
temperature germination and emergence growing system will be used. The main choices Support In the greenhouse tomato plants are water supply is achieved with plants grown
should take place in 7-10 days. Keep the are between greenhouse soil, ring culture, usually best supported on soft garden string directly in greenhouse soil. In all systems,
seedlings evenly moist but not waterlogged. 9 in pots placed direct on greenhouse soil, tied to a horizontal wire near the greenhouse irregular watering will cause fruit to split.

Raising from seed Planting

1 Early January Sow 2 - 3 seeds per sq in 2 Prick out seedlings 10-12 days after 3 Place pots in propagator and set 4 Mid-late April When flowers on first
in propagator filled with sieved soil. sowing using a small dibble. Transfer to thermostat to 18°C/65°F. Water sparingly truss are just opening water plants well.
Sprinkle over 1/8 in layer of soil and 3 in pots filled with John Innes No. 1 or but often. Liquid feed before planting. Remove plants from pots and place 18 in
cover with newspaper. an equivalent mix. apart in chosen growing medium.

Tomatoes 2

Greenhouse grown tomatoes should he Pollination and fruit setting Support 2 Snap off side and basal 3 Spray the flowers with a
liquid fed with a proprietary fertilizer mixed If fruit setting is a problem it can be improved shoots between thumb and fine droplet spray or shake
with the water according to the manufac- by assisting pollen dispersal. Spray the plant 1 Bamboo canes can be forefinger. If possible de- the plant gently to disperse
turer's instructions. A balanced fertilizer will with a fine droplet spray, shake the plant used for support. Tie the shoot in early morning pollen and improve fruit
provide nitrogen to encourage vegetative gently or tap the flower trusses. plant on loosely with soft when the stems are turgid. setting.
growth and potassium to improve quality. garden string so that stems
Stopping are not damaged. Stopping
Trimming and de-leafing In a cold greenhouse tomatoes will not
As tomato plants grow they develop side usually produce more than six or seven fruit
shoots in the junctions (axils) between leaf trusses per season so it is best to snap off the
and stem. These must be removed while they growing point two leaves beyond the sixth
are small or they will use up water and or seventh truss. Continue to remove further
nutrients needed by the productive parts of sideshoots, which will often be stimulated
the plant. Snap off each side shoot cleanly into growth by the stopping process.
between finger and thumb, preferably in early
morning when the plants are turgid. Avoid Harvesting
pulling which leaves scars that are easily Ripe fruit should be ready for picking in mid-
invaded by disease-causing fungi. May from seed sown in early January. Harvest
time depends upon sowing time. If climate
W h e n plants are 4—5 ft tall, remove the allows, crops can for instance be sown in
lower leaves up to the first truss. Use a sharp |une for September-December crops.
knife and cut cleanly leaving no snags. De-
leafing allows more light to reach the plant Pests and diseases
base, improves air circulation and helps to Greenhouse tomatoes are notoriously sus-
combat fungal diseases. As the trusses crop ceptible to pests and diseases which are
make sure any yellowing or diseased leaves described in detail on pages 38-40.
are removed.

TRAINING SYSTEMS

Vertical training Plants are carefully V-training Plants are twisted round strings 4 Liquid feed growing 5 Snap off growing point 6 Pick ripe fruit by snap-
twisted round soft string attached below set alternately at 60° to the ground. This plants following manu- 2 leaves above top truss ping the stalk, leaving the
lowest true leaf and to a horizontal wire system is good for straw bale culture with facturer's instructions. when 6-7 trusses have set calyx on the fruit. Ripe fruit
6-8ft above ground level. plants placed closer than 18 in. Water them as necessary. fruit. Remove any lower left under hot sun will soon
leaves that turn yellow. lose its firmness.

Vegetables and salads 1

The greatest advantage of the cold green- Leaf crops Winter endive Sow seed as for lettuce in such protection include parsley, chives, mint,
house in salad and vegetable growing is that Good choices for the cold house include salad late August to early September and put in a French tarragon, pot marjoram, rosemary,
it can be used to extend the growing season greens, seakale and herbs. well-lit position. Ventilate the house and thyme and sage. Water plants well and venti-
at both ends of the year. In warmer parts of Lettuce Sow lettuce seed in pots then prick water the seedlings regularly. When plants late the house during the day in all but the
the country, an unheated greenhouse can them out into peat blocks or pots before are fully grown, tie them round loosely with worst weather. In spring, begin sowing seeds
also provide winter crops. Those summer planting them in greenhouse soil. If seed is raffia and place a large plastic pot over of annual and biennial herbs as soon as the
crops normally grown outside, such as tomato sown in small quantities at fortnightly inter- selected plants to blanch the leaves. Cover greenhouse temperature is high enough.
and cucumber, can be grown under glass for vals from early spring until autumn, a the drainage hole of the pot and support it
faster maturing and protection against rain, constant supply can be assured. To prevent on crocks to allow free air circulation. Root crops and bulbs
hail and wind. With good planning a green- diseases, particularly botrytis, it is important Seakale From late September to late Small quantities of root crops can be raised in
house can provide food for the kitchen to ventilate the house well in all but the worst October, lift seakale crowns from the garden the cold house for harvesting weeks before
almost all the year round. It is also very weather. The crop needs adequate light and and trim off the side roots and any yellowing the main outdoor crops. Seed sowing can
useful for raising young vegetable plants attention to watering. Give a few thorough foliage. Trim the main roots to about 6 in. begin in February-March in peat pots or
which are later planted out into the garden. waterings rather than many small ones. The Allowing 3 crowns per pot, plant the crowns directly into slightly acid greenhouse border
crop will be improved by a thorough soaking in 9 in plastic pots filled with rich soil mix soil prepared according to crop requirements.
The most significant limitation of the cold about 10 days before harvesting. such as John Innes No. 3. Cover each pot with If the vegetables are to be eaten really young
house is implicit in its description—because Mustard and cress As long as the greenhouse another of the same size turned upside down and tender, make more sowings at three or
it is unheated, the gardener must wait until temperature is 10°C/50°F or above, mustard and place under the greenhouse staging. four week intervals. Thoroughly water and
the house temperature reaches a suitable and cress can be sown at weekly intervals. Ideally the crowns need a temperature of well ventilate the house once the tempera-
point before certain seeds can be sown. Sow seed on a moist tissue in a shallow dish about 10°C/50°F, so if the house gets too cold tures begin to rise in April.
Also, the winter temperature in the cold and place it in the dark under a bench, lightly insulate the pots with newspaper or burlap.
house precludes the growing of many out of covered with a dark cloth or newspaper if Herbs Many herbs will continue growing Pods
season crops. When considering which crops necessary to exclude light. Once the seeds through the winter if plants are potted up and
to grow, make maximum use of space. Catch have germinated, move the dish up into a brought into the cold house for protection Select dwarf varieties of bush beans for cold
crops such as carrots and radishes can be lighter place and keep the seeds well watered. during winter. Herbs that benefit most from greenhouse cultivation and make two sow-
grown between tall crops before they develop. ings, one in spring for early summer cropping,

Lettuces

1 Sow seed in 31/2 in pots filled with potting 2 Prick out as many seedlings as required 3 When plants have 4 - 5 true leaves plant 4 Harvest lettuce by carefully pulling up
soil. Cover the seeds lightly and water into small individual peat blocks or pots. the peat blocks or pots 8 in apart into whole plants and trimming off the roots,
using a fine rose. Repeat sowings every Water well and increase the ventilation the greenhouse border soil. Water well or cut plants below lower leaves. Remove
according to the weather. and ensure good ventilation. discarded matter from greenhouse.
2 weeks.

Vegetables and salads 2

the other in July for autumn harvesting. Pre- late the house in warm weather. Watch WITLOOF CHICORY plant 3 or 4 chicory roots at weekly
germinate the seeds and sow four or five for aphids and red spider mites. Spray with intervals in a 9 in plastic pot filled with
seeds round the edges of a pot filled with John malathion or derris if pests are seen. In November, lift witloof chicory roots sand so that each crown is 1/2 in above the
Innes No. 2 or equivalent mix. For the spring Eggplants These need very similar cultural from the garden and cut off the leaves to top of the soil. Water sparingly and cover
sowing wait until early April in cool areas, or conditions to peppers, and plants can be within \ in of the crown. Trim the roots to with pot to keep out light. Place under
germinate the seeds indoors. Water the raised from seed in the same way or pur- 9 in and take off any side shoots. Store the the bench and keep well ventilated. The
plants well once flowers appear and ventilate chased from a nursery. Aim for planting in roots horizontally in boxes of dry sand chicons will be ready after 4 weeks.
the house in warm weather. early May and allow two plants to a standard outside under a north wall until they are
size growing bag. Pinch out the growing needed. From mid-November onwards 3 June onwards Keep single laterals in each
Vegetable fruits points when plants are 9-12 in high and leaf axil and stop them at 2 leaves. Remove
Cucumbers, sweet peppers and eggplants, allow only 5 or 6 fruit to develop on each 2 June-July Tie growing plants to canes for male flowers if appropriate. Harvest by
as well as tomatoes whose culture is des- plant. Remove any extra fruits, leaving the support. Pinch out growing points as main cutting the stems with a sharp knife.
cribed in detail on pages 70-71, can all be remaining ones well spaced, and pinch off stems reach the roof. Ventilate frequently,
grown in the cold greenhouse. any extra flowers that form. Water and feed but carefully, as humidity is important.
Cucumbers Pre-germinate cucumber seeds often but sparingly and ventilate the house in
then sow them singly in 3 in pots filled with hot weather. Watch out for pests and spray
|ohn Innes No. 1 or a similar mix. Allow against those that appear as for peppers.
4 to 5 weeks from sowing to planting and
time the operation so that planting can take Raising seed
place in late May, if necessary germinating Seeds of many vegetables can be raised in
the seeds indoors. Preferably, plants should the cold house for planting out once the
be planted in growing bags (2 plants per weather is suitable to provide earlier, more
standard bag) or singly on straw bales. At reliable crops. Sow seed in peat blocks or
planting time or before, erect a system of pots for easy planting later on and keep
supporting strings tied to horizontal wires house well ventilated. See pages 5 5 - 6 .
near the greenhouse roof, or insert bamboo
canes on to which plants can be loosely tied. Cucumbers
Developing plants should be well watered
and given liquid feed and the atmosphere in 1 Late May Plant seedlings raised in heat in
the house should be kept as humid as pos- 9 in pots filled with potting soil. Water
sible. Pinch and trim the plants as shown in and liquid feed regularly. Keep the
the illustrations and remove any male flower. greenhouse humid.
Sweet peppers These vegetable fruits are
best grown in the cold greenhouse in pots.
Because the seed needs a temperature of
21°C/70°F for germination, seeds must be
germinated in a propagating case and the
seedlings hardened off, or the gardener can
buy plants from a nursery. Allow 10 to 12
weeks between sowing and planting in late
May. Sow seed thinly on moistened soil
covered with 1/8 in of compost and then with
glass and newspaper. W h e n seedlings are
large enough to handle, prick them out into
3 in pots filled with John Innes No. 3 compost
or plant 3 plants in a standard sized growing
bag. Place pots 18 in apart on the border soil
or greenhouse staging. When plants are
about 6 in tall, remove the growing point to
encourage bushy growth, and support and
tie them to bamboo canes if necessary. Keep
plants well watered and liquid fed and venti-

The year in a cool greenhouse 1

A cool greenhouse, one provided with a heat- To many gardeners, the cool greenhouse with are the many house plants available, and which burn gas or oil, can harm plants if
ing system that ensures that temperatures do is the norm and a cold or warm house is a sub-tropical flowering plants such as those they are not adjusted correctly. Badly set
not fall below 4.5°C/40°F, provides an en- deviation from it. When gardening literature fostered by Victorian conservatory gardeners wicks and burners can cause the heater to
vironment suitable for a vast range of plants. and catalogs are consulted, it will be noticed for winter blooms. give off poisonous fumes.
Nearly all the plants from the world's tem- that "greenhouse plants" tends to mean Thermostats The sensible management of a
perate zones can be cultivated, and the those to be grown in a cool house. Management heating system centers around the use of
choice extends into those from the sub- The principles of cool greenhouse care are thermostats. These devices sense tempera
tropical and tropical regions. A distinction is While there are very many plants to choose those outlined earlier in this book for the ture changes and act as switches, turning the
made between those plants that can be from for growing in a cold house, it is often running of any greenhouse. The one main heating system on and off as required. They
grown in winter in a cool house, such as worth experimenting to try to widen the difference in the running of a cool house is are most often used with electrical systems,
salads and chrysanthemums, and those such range still further. Plants rarely have an the need to manipulate the heating system. which are easily controllable and capable "I
as sub-tropical bedding plants which are absolute minimum temperature which kills producing heat quickly. Gas and oil systems
dormant at cool greenhouse temperatures them, unless it be frost level which, by An inefficient heating system is undesirable can also be fitted with thermostats—as are
but survive the winter undamaged, when freezing the cells, can cause physical damage. for three reasons. First, if the system is not domestic central heating boilers.
they would die in the open garden or an Many plants thought to need higher tem- running correctly it will not be able to main-
unheated house. In addition, all those plants peratures than the cool house minimum can tain the necessary temperature and plants A thermostat is only useful if the system it
which will tolerate cold greenhouse condi- in fact be acclimated to the prevailing con- will suffer. The second reason is that in- controls has sufficient capacity. The heaters
tions can be grown in a cool house. In many ditions. A lot depends upon avoiding ex- efficiency in the use of fuel will lead to must be capable of maintaining the desired
cases their growing seasons will be longer. It tremes and sudden changes. If the balance rapidly escalating bills. Heating a greenhouse temperature without running constantly. The
is possible to raise a wider range of out-of- of the environment—heat, humidity and is expensive, and if the system used keeps section on heating (pages 18-23) shows how
season food crops and ornamentals given the ventilation—is carefully watched, plants the temperature unnecessarily high, or burns to calculate the size of heating installation
minimum temperature of a cool house. thought tender may survive and go on to fuel inefficiently, the cost will be magnified. necessary. O n c e a large enough system has
flourish. Among those worth experimenting Third, certain kinds of heating system, those been installed, thermostatic control will

January February March April May June

Check draft-proofing, insulation Ventilate when possible and Increase watering, ventilate well on Pay attention to ventilation and Water freely, shade as necessary in Turn off and overhaul heating
(if fitted) and heating system. Set gradually increase watering. Day sunny days and maintain a more watering as temperatures increase. sunny weather and encourage a system. Ventilate freely, shade
thermostats to night minimum of length will increase. Maintain humid atmosphere. Be alert for and Keep heating switched on, setting more humid atmosphere. whenever necessary and damp
4.5°C/40°F. Water plants in flower, minimum temperature. combat insect pests such as aphids. thermostat for minimum night Sow cineraria, primula. Plant down and spray to raise humidity.
water others sparingly. Maintain a Sow bedding plants with long Sow sweet pepper, squash, half- temperature. chrysanthemums and move Water as required, twice a day if
dry atmosphere to discourage germination/growing periods, half- hardy annuals, tomato, bedding Sow cucumbers, squashes, outside. Pot on carnations, zonal necessary.
mildew. hardy annuals, sweet peas, begonia, plants, basil. pumpkins, dwarf French beans, pelargoniums, tuberous begonias, Sow calceolaria, Primula nialamides,
Sow canna, fuchsia, pelargonium. calceolaria, salvia, schizanthus, and Transplant rooted cuttings taken in runner beans for transplanting annuals raised from spring-sown zinnia, all for autumn and winter
Bring in bulbs for flowering as they germinate in a propagating case. winter. outdoors, primulas, half-hardy seed. Feed all plants in active flowering.
show growth. Continue to take chrysanthemum Repot orchids and other perennials annuals such as stocks and zinnias, growth. Take precautions against Feed tomato plants and all other
Take cuttings of winter-flowering cuttings. as necessary. and Campanula pyramidalis. insect pests. plants in growth. Pot on plants
chrysanthemums and carnations. Begin to take softwood cuttings. Continue re-potting and potting on. Pinch out young fuchsias when raised from seed as necessary.
Sow brassicas and onions for Pot up tuberous begonias. Move bulbs which have flowered 4-5 in high. Plant out bedding plants into their
transplanting outdoors. Sow early to a frame. Move over-wintering Remove cucumber laterals and all flowering positions in the open
bunching turnips, carrots, parsnips, pot plants outdoors into a male flowers. garden.
beets, okra, tomatoes, cucumbers. sheltered position. Tie in tomato plants and pinch out Plunge azaleas, hydrangeas and
Plant tomato plants from middle Transplant seedlings from seed side shoots. other pot plants which have
of the month. sown earlier in the spring. Take finished flowering.
Begin re-potting of ferns and palms. further softwood cuttings. Cut back shoots of regal
Bring in more bulbs for flowering. Dust tomato flowers to encourage pelargoniums.
pollination.
Move half-hardy plants into a
frame to harden off.

The year in a cool greenhouse 2

ensure that it only operates when the tern humidity by regular damping down and the sun heat is thus needed to raise the tem- be grown in a cool greenhouse. The plants
perature falls below the pre-set level. The installation of damp sand beds under benches. perature to unwanted levels. chosen, especially those illustrated in the
heater will raise the temperature, triggering step-by-step sequences, are the most re-
the thermostat again and cutting off the While summer heat and winter cold have Growing plants warding for the relatively inexperienced and/
system. Thermostats must be placed away to be countered by active management, the The following pages deal with the cultivation or those which illustrate a key growing prin-
from drafts and cold spots, where they will most difficult times of the year for the running of ornamentals, including bedding plants ciple. The information given can be adapted
give an artificial reading. of the cold greenhouse can be spring and which are covered in detail, and food crops. to cover the cultivation of many other plants.
Balance While the main stress of cold green- autumn. During these seasons the sun has All the ornamentals and food crops covered
house management is on maintaining the power to quickly heat the greenhouse, while in the preceding cold greenhouse section, There are other categories of plants of
winter minimum, thought must be given to the nights are cool. Cold daytime tempera- such as annuals, tomatoes and salad crops, interest which are less popular but still worth
the other components of greenhouse tures can easily occur due to sudden weather can be added to the list. The difference comes considering if greenhouse space is available.
management. Shading, ventilation and humi- changes. This combination can be particularly mainly in timing of sowing and cropping. For example, many shrubs can be grown in
dity control are all crucial, especially in trying in the late winter and early spring. Sun Tomatoes, for instance, can be planted from containers under glass and brought into
summer. Just as plants have a minimum heat is becoming more powerful, and the mid-February onwards in a cool greenhouse, flower earlier than outside. Examples are
temperature for healthy growth, so they have effect of the sun combined with artificial while in a cold house late April is the earliest lilac, forsythia and hydrangea. Fruits such as
maximum levels of temperature which will heating can quickly raise the temperature, possible date. Annuals will flower earlier in citrus can be grown in tubs in cool green-
harm them. Problems caused by high air often above the level required, unless ventila- the spring in a cool house than in a cold one. house conditions. Most citrus trees will
temperatures are often magnified by failure tion is promptly given. Under these con- Lettuce, radish and other salad crops can be tolerate a winter minimum of 7°C/45°F,
to ensure adequate humidity. If there is not ditions automatic ventilators (see pages 15- sown in late summer and autumn for autumn though the lime needs 10°C/50°F. Summer
enough water vapor in the atmosphere, 16) show their worth. A cold house will not and winter cropping. temperatures should be maintained at 13°-
plants will transpire—give out water from suffer so much from this problem because it 16°C/550-61°F for successful cropping. Full
their leaves into the air—too quickly. Increase does not have the reservoir of artificially Other plants Many more plants than those details of the cultivation of warm temperate
generated heat that a cool house has. More described in detail on the following pages can fruits are given in Fruit in this series.

July August September October November December

Maintain a moist atmosphere and Continue summer shading, Reduce watering and damping Switch on the heating system and Maintain minimum winter Fit insulation to greenhouse sides if
attend to watering. Ventilate well watering and damping down down as temperatures drop. set the thermostat to maintain a temperature as October and possible and stop up all drafts.
and shade as required. Sow regime. Watch for cool nights Restart the heating system to minimum night temperature of ventilate sparingly. Further reduce Cover the house with burlap or
sapiglossis and make a repeat towards the end of the month as check it and switch on if necessary 4.5°C/40°F. Ventilate freely on watering of all except plants in mats in very severe weather.
sowing of Primula malacoides days shorten. towards the end of the month. warm days but exclude fog and flower. Protect tender plants with paper,
and calceolaria. Sow annuals for spring flowering, Check winter fuel supplies if damp. Reduce watering and Pot on annuals. Keep in good light polyethylene or burlap if severe
Take hydrangea cuttings. cyclamen, cineraria. necessary. Reduce shading. remove shading completely. and give minimum water. frost is forecast. Cut watering to
Stake plants, especially annuals Prick out calceolarias and other Sow more annuals for spring Pot up the last of the bulbs. Bring in the first batch of bulbs for the minimum.
growing in pots, and train climbers seedlings from earlier sowings. flowering. Feed cyclamen, cinerarias, primulas winter flowering. Ventilate a little when possible and
Pot on pelargoniums reared from Take cuttings of pelargoniums. Pot up remaining bulbs. and camellias. Prune shrubs. run a fan heater to circulate the
spring cuttings and plunge Pot on primulas, cinerarias. Bring in azaleas, camellias, If possible, remove all plants and Sow lettuce. atmosphere.
outdoors. Pot on carnations, and Plant bulbs for winter and spring chrysanthemums and other pot fumigate the house against fungal Bring in fuchsias, begonias and Bring in more bulbs.
repot freesias. flowering, such as freesias, tulip, plants that have spent the summer diseases. hydrangeas and store under the Box up seakale and witloof chicory
hyacinth, narcissi. in the open. Scatter pellets to combat slugs. staging. Keep almost dry. for forcing.
Feed chrysanthemums standing Cut down chrysanthemums after
outdoors and water well. Pot on cyclamen, cinerarias and they have flowered and start to
Repair any structural damage to primulas into final pots and move take cuttings of soft growth.
the greenhouse and repaint if onto greenhouse shelves. Keep cineraria, cyclamen, primulas
necessary. Take cuttings of bedding plants and other plants required for
before they are discarded, and of Christmas flowering in a warm part
coleus, heliotropes and fuchsias. of the house. Water them with
care, avoiding the foliage.
Clear debris, dead leaves and used
pots from the greenhouse. Clean
all pots, trays and propagating
equipment.

Bedding plants 1

The cool greenhouse is an ideal place for the artificial heat provided by the cool without the addition of sand. The larger important until after germination.
raising summer bedding plants. Using the greenhouse, development of seeds sown in seeds, such as those of zinnias—and small As soon as the seeds germinate (this may
greenhouse in this way shortens the pro- the first two months of the year is slow seeds that have been pelleted—are best
pagation period and, as long as plants are because of low winter light intensity. planted singly by hand. Cover sown seed take one to three weeks depending on
properly hardened off and precautions taken with soil but be careful not to make this temperature and the species) remove any
against disease, ensures the production of Seeds of bedding plants may be sown in covering layer too thick. Label the con- covering and put the containers in a well lit
sturdy plants. The other advantages to the flats or pans (dwarf pots). Fill the chosen tainer clearly then water in the seeds with a place but be careful that they do not risk
gardener of raising his own plants from seed containers with a good seed-growing mix- dilute mixture of Captan or a copper-based being scorched by strong sunlight. Water
compared with buying plants direct from the ture which should be damp. There is no need fungicide to help prevent damping off disease. with dilute Captan to combat damping oil
nursery are that he knows exactly what he is to avoid peat-based soils, with their low Use a rose on the watering can so that seeds and other seedling diseases. If possible
growing and that there is less risk of plants nutrient reserves, because the seeds will are not dislodged from their planting maintain the temperature at 21*C/70*F to
being damaged as they do not have to be germinate relatively rapidly in the frost-free positions by the water. promote speedy development. The seedling)
transplanted from overcrowded seed flats. environment of the greenhouse. Once the also need good ventilation and the green
containers are full, press down the soil with Germination house ventilators should be opened for at
Seed sowing the fingers or a presser board to within 1/4 in Even in a cool greenhouse, developing seeds, least an hour a day except in very severe-
One of the most critical aspects of raising of the top, but be careful not to press too particularly those sown in mid-winter, will weather conditions.
bedding plants from seed in the greenhouse hard as this will restrict the drainage and benefit from extra warmth. This is best pro-
is timing. As a general rule, the sequence of tend to encourage damping off diseases and vided by a propagating case. When using Pricking out
sowing is determined by the speed at which attack by sciarid flies. such a case, place the seed containers in- Seedlings should be pricked out as soon as
seeds germinate and by the growth rate of side it and set the thermostat to 21°C/71°F. they are large enough to handle. If left in
the developing seedlings. For this reason The best method of sowing seed depends If a propagating case is not available, either their original containers they will become
slow-growing species required for summer on the size of individual seeds. For small seeds take the seed containers indoors and put overcrowded and their roots will become so
bedding are sown in February and March such as those of Begonia semperflorens, mix them in a warm place or cover them with entangled that the gardener will be unable to
and a monthly sowing plan adopted accord- the seeds with fine dry sand in the seed packet a sheet of glass. A piece of newspaper may avoid damaging them when they are re-
ing to the scheme shown above. Even with then sow them by broadcasting, keeping the be placed on top of the glass as light is not moved. Prick out seedlings into individual
hand close to the soil surface. Larger seeds pots or flats filled with John Innes No. 1 or a
Growing bedding plants from seed can be broadcast in the same way, but

1 Fill a seed flat with seed-sowing soil. 2 Sow the seeds thinly. Small seeds can 3 Sieve soil over medium-sized or large 4 Water the seed flat with a dilute mixture
Firm the soil with the fingertips or a be mixed with fine dry sand and broadcast seeds so that they are just covered. Do of Captan or other fungicide to combat
presser board to within 1/2 in of the top. onto the soil to make sowing easier. not cover small seeds. damping off and other diseases.

Bedding plants 2

similar potting soil, taking care to handle Propagation PEAT BLOCKS PLANTING OUT
then) by one leaf and between finger and While most bedding plants are raised from
thumb. Use a dibble to pry out the seed- seed, several important plants can be propa- Larger seeds can be sown in peat blocks When seedlings are ready to be planted
lings and to make a hole in the soil big gated by cuttings or division. Full details of formed from damp peat-based soil with out and have been hardened off in a frame
enough to accommodate each plant. If seed- these methods of propagation are given on a blocking device, or in peat pots. Both or been placed outside during the day,
lings are pricked out into flats, allow at least pages 57-63. have the advantage of being planted plant in the flowering positions. If possible,
11/2 in between them each way to prevent with the young plant in the flowering remove both plants and soil, allowing
overcrowding. Firm the soil round each Cuttings can be taken in autumn when position. The seedlings are therefore not the roots to be gently teased out and the
seedling with the dibble, label and give the plants are lifted, or in spring from tubers subject to the disturbance of pricking out. young plants to be inserted with an
another watering with dilute fungicide to kept dormant over the winter. Geraniums are Sow 2 - 3 seeds in each block and water adequate rootball. Make planting holes
guard against damping off. one of many bedding plants that can be well. Provide the conditions described in with a trowel and water well after firming
propagated by cuttings. Keep the cuttings at the caption sequence below. When the in. Water well until the plants have be-
Even in ideal conditions the seedlings will a minimum temperature of 4°C/40°F over seedlings have reached first true leaf come established. Pot-grown greenhouse
suffer some check to their growth after winter, and water sparingly. Pot on as neces- stage, thin to the strongest per block. perennials can be used as dot plants.
pricking out but careful handling and trans- sary into 4 or 5 in pots, harden off and plant
planting when the root system is small and out in the normal way.
unbranched will help to reduce this to a
minimum. After pricking out the temperature Overwintering
can be reduced to 18°C/65°F but good venti- Some bedding plants can be overwintered in
lation is still essential to healthy seedling a cool house for re-use the next season. Lift
development. When seedlings are big enough the plants in autumn and pot or box up. Cut
and when there is no chance of frost, seed- back the foliage by about one-half, water
lings should be hardened off in a cold frame very sparingly and ventilate freely to guard
(see page 91) or by turning off the greenhouse against gray mold. Plenty of light is neces-
heating system and gradually increasing the sary to avoid the production of drawn, weak
ventilation first by day and then at night. growth. Plant out as normal in spring.

5 Place the flat in a propagating case at 6 As soon as the first seedlings emerge, 7 Spray seedlings with Captan or another 8 Prick out seedlings into flats, boxes or
21°C/70°F, or in a warm place indoors if a place the flat in good light. Keep the dilute fungicide to combat damping off individual pots as soon as they are large
case is not available. temperature at 21°C/70°F. disease. Ensure that ventilation is adequate. enough to handle.

Fruits and vegetables 1

The cool greenhouse can be used to best not open the ventilators until the temperature Early strawberries 2 Two weeks later raise the temperature to
effect in growing food crops if it is used to reaches 24°C/75°F. As the flowers open, 7°C/45°F. W h e n flower trusses appear raise
cultivate not only tomatoes, cucumbers and carry out a daily pollination routine, trans- 1 Mid-December Bring rooted plants in 6 in it to 10°C/50°F. Ventilate and damp down
the other vegetable fruits described on ferring pollen from flower to flower with a pots into the cool house. Make sure they when the temperature exceeds 21°C/70°F.
pages 70-73 but also more tender vegetables small paint brush. During this pollination are well spaced. Keep the temperature just
such as okra. Melons and early strawberries period do not damp down the house as this above freezing. Liquid feed twice a week. 4 When fruit has set resume d a m p i n g
are also good subjects for the cool house and may prevent fruit from forming. To obtain down. Support fruit trusses with forked
so, if space allows, are peaches and nec- fewer, but larger fruit, remove the smallest 3 When the flowers open stop damping twigs inserted in the pots. Stop feeding
tarines which often fail to do well in the open. flowers as soon as their petals have fallen off down and increase the temperature to when fruit begins to color.
and leave eight to ten fruits on each plant. 13°C/55°F. Ventilate the house at 24°C/75°F.
Early strawberries Pollinate the flowers daily with a brush.
The cool house will enable the gardener to Once fruit begins to set, resume the
pick crops of strawberries in March or April. damping down routine and water the plants
Propagation In late June, peg down the very well in sunny weather. Continue feeding
runners of plants growing in the open garden until the fruits begin to turn pink in order to
into 3 in pots filled with John Innes No. 1 improve fruit flavor.
potting compost buried with their rims level
with the soil surface. After four to six weeks, Melons
when the new plants are well established,
sever them from the parents and place the In the cool house, melons can be cultivated
pots on well-drained soil or in an open cold as described for the cold house on page 69
frame. Water them well and as plants grow except that by maintaining a minimum
pot them on into their final 6 in pots using springtime temperature of 21°C/70°C fruit
John Innes No. 2 or an equivalent peat-based will be produced much earlier. In the cool
mix. Until September, liquid feed the plants house melon seed can be planted in February
once a week and water frequently. and March to give earlier fruit in June and
July respectively. Remember to damp down
Leave the plants undisturbed until Novem- the house well except during pollination and
ber then bury the pots up to their rims in peat when the fruits start to ripen.
or well-drained soil to prevent frost from
reaching their roots. Ideally, this should be Okra
done in a cold frame but a sheltered corner Also known as gumbo and ladies' fingers,
of the garden (not a frost pocket) will suffice okra are unusual vegetable fruits particu-
if necessary. If there is any risk of frost damage, larly good for cooking in curries and other
close the frame or cover the plants with straw. oriental dishes. They are not hard to grow
Greenhouse cultivation In mid-December but being tropical plants they need fairly
take the pots into the greenhouse and place high temperatures, particularly for germina-
them well apart on a sunny shelf to allow good tion and plant raising.
air circulation and maximum light. For a fort- Raising from seed Sow seed thinly in a seed
night keep the temperature just above freez- flat filled with moist soil mix or sow them
ing then raise it to 7°C/45°F. Do not be singly in peat pots from February onwards.
tempted to turn the heating up any higher as Cover the seeds with a thin layer of mix,
this will create too much foliage at the water them in, then cover the pots or flats
expense of fruiting capacity. When the flower with a sheet of glass and one of newspaper.
trusses appear in February, raise the minimum Turn the glass once a day and maintain a
temperature to 10°C/50°F and ventilate the temperature of 18°-21oC/65o-70°F. The seeds
house a little during the daytime if the green- will take from one to three weeks to ger-
house air temperature exceeds 21°C/70°F. minate, depending on the temperature. As
At this stage plants will benefit if the house soon as they are big enough to handle, prick
is damped down once a week and if they are out the seedlings into 3 in peat or plastic pots
given a high potash liquid feed twice a week. filled with John Innes No. 1 potting compost.
Greenhouse cultivation In early spring, plant
When the flowers are open, increase the out okra direct into the greenhouse border
minimum temperature to 13°C/55°F but do soil or transplant them into 10 in pots of

Fruits and vegetables 2

John Innes No. 2 compost. Whichever method placed with a preparation made from sods 1 March Transplant young plants raised in 2 Pinch out the growing points to
is chosen, plants should be provided with of fibrous chalky loam stacked for six months heat direct into greenhouse soil or transfer encourage bushy growth and a good
canes for support and placed 21-24 in apart then mixed with one part of rubble to every them to 10 in pots. Space plants 21-24 in succession of fruits when plants are 9-12 in
in each direction. Throughout the growing ten parts of loam. A fortnight before planting apart and provide canes for support. tall. Guard against pests.
season, water plants well and when they are in spring, mix in 8oz of John Innes base
9-12 in high, pinch out the growing points to fertilizer to every 2 gal bucketful of soil.
encourage a bushy habit and a good suc- Care of plants A peach will need a minimum
cession of flowers and fruit. Watch out for temperature of 7°C/45°F from late winter
signs of whitefly and red spider mite. until fruit is formed. Only ventilate the house
when the temperature rises above 18°C/65°F.
Okra should be harvested when they are Until the flowers open, damp down the house
young and the seeds inside their pods still on sunny days and spray the foliage with
soft. Harvest between June and September. clean water daily. In early summer, mulch
plants well with rotted manure or garden
Peaches compost and apply a liquid tomato feed
In a large greenhouse, especially a lean-to, every 10 days from bud burst to the start of
it is possible to grow a fan-trained peach or fruit ripening.
nectarine. Both these fruits will crop more
reliably in the cool house than in the garden. When the flowers open hand pollinate
The best sort of peach to choose for a cool them with a small paint brush and when
house is the common plum rootstock St fruitlets form thin them to about two per
Julien A which is semi-dwarfing and so more cluster when they are about 1/2 in long. Thin
manageable. again at the 1 in stage to leave fruits evenly
Soil The border soil of the greenhouse can be spaced 8-10 in apart.
used but should be enriched with plenty of
organic matter before a peach is planted. Care after harvesting After the fruits have
Alternatively, the border soil may be re- been picked, open the ventilators and leave
them open until spring.

FAN-TRAINED PEACH

If space allows a fan-trained peach may be organic matter and provide wires 6 in 3 Through the growing period water plants 4 June onwards Cut y o u n g pods as soon as
grown against the back wall of a lean-to . apart for support. For early fruiting main- regularly. If necessary spray against red they are ready, using sharp scissors, to give
greenhouse or under the roof of a double spider mite using malathion or a similar a long cropping period. Remember that old
or single-span cool house. Ideally an area tain a minimum temperature of 7°C/45°F low-persistence pesticide. pods are stringy and unpalatable.
of 15 ft x 10 ft is needed. Plant the tree from late winter until fruits are formed and
direct into greenhouse soil enriched with ventilate only when the temperature
exceeds 18°C/65°F.

The year in a warm greenhouse 1

In theory, raising the greenhouse temperature considered to be raising food crops such as cool regime. Ventilators will not need open- Electric fan heaters are also useful back ups
to bring it into the warm category—minimum tomato, melon and lettuce, with a few sub- ing until the temperature reaches 21-24"C/ for solid fuel systems. Fan heaters also have
night temperature 13°C/55°F—greatly in- tropical foliage plants to add interest, a cool 70-75°F. If, on days of cool winds, hot sun the beneficial effect of circulating air, Pests
creases the range of plants that can be house will suffice, with the foliage plants and passing cloud banks the temperature and diseases, especially fungal diseases ,and
grown. However, two important factors must kept in a large propagating case heated to briefly rises to 38°C/100°F, there need be no mildew, can be a problem all the year round
be set against this benefit. First, the cost of warm greenhouse levels. Similarly if a large cause for alarm. Shading, however, is vital in a warm greenhouse. A buoyant atmo-
heating a greenhouse to warm level is very number of seeds are to be raised in the early especially as many of the plants grown come sphere, such as that produced by a fan
high. Second, the range of plants easily spring, a propagating case of soil-heated from forest or jungle environments where heater, helps to prevent such troubles.
available to gardeners and suitable for warm bench bed will be more economical. shade is dense and light intensity low.
greenhouse conditions is relatively small. Foliage plants
A medium sized greenhouse can also be Heating Many of the foliage plants cultivated in warm
The character of a well-stocked warm fitted with a partition and used as a combined The heating system will need careful design greenhouses are widely grown as house
greenhouse is quite different from that of cool and warm house. The inner section can to ensure that it is capable of maintaining the plants. Some houses plants require a higher
cold and warm houses. Many of the plants then be double-glazed and fitted with a high- minimum temperature necessary. See pages minimum temperature than even a warm
are grown for their foliage, which is often powered heating system, while the outer 20-21. Whichever fuel is chosen for the main greenhouse provides, but most will thrive in
large and handsomely patterned. A warm part of the house is run as a cool house. This heating system, failures can occur. Electricity the better light and more even environment
greenhouse full of foliage plants, ferns and allows plants to be moved from one to is subject to power cuts, which can affect of a greenhouse. The many books on house
orchids has a lush, tropical feeling. The another when they are needed for flowering gas and oil systems as well as electric ones plants describe the growing conditions
gardener's response to this markedly different or forcing. Bulbs can be placed in the cool by cutting power to pumps and igniters. needed. Bear in mind that while winter
atmosphere is a matter of taste, but the section after flowering, and plants raised Solid fuel and oil systems may be forced out conditions in a warm greenhouse may be
contrast between a warm house, which from seed in the warm house can be moved of action by fuel supply problems. A back-up ideal for some house plants, they may find
reproduces a different climate, and the cool into the cool section as the first stage in system which uses another fuel is vital, for if summer temperatures there too hot. Shading
house, which moderates an existing one, hardening off. the winter night temperature is allowed to must be considered an essential when
must be appreciated. fall many valuable plants may be lost. A growing foliage plants. Among foliage plants
The routine management of a warm kerosene heater, kept well maintained and suitable for warm greenhouse conditions are:
Before deciding on a warm greenhouse, greenhouse follows much the same pattern with a full fuel tank, is a good insurance. Aphelandra squarrosa (zebra plant). Deep
the gardener should consider the plants to be as any other heated house. In general,
grown. If the main use for a greenhouse is ventilation problems are fewer than under a

January February March April May June

Restrict watering to those plants Water more freely and ventilate in Ventilate freely on warm days and Ventilate for most of the day, but Increase watering, damping down Turn off and overhaul the heating
in flower or active growth. sunny weather. maintain a more humid beware of night frosts, which can and shading as temperatures rise. system. Use a fan or kerosene
Keep humidity low and ventilate Keep up cold weather precautions atmosphere. Shade susceptible still be sharp. Water freely, Continue feeding and pest and heater if unseasonal weather
only around noon, maintain a such as insulation and draft plants from bright sun. Increase increase humidity by damping disease control. occurs. Ventilate freely and shade
buoyant atmosphere. proofing. humidity by syringing, spraying and down and syringing, and shade Continue to sow primula and sow the house. Water twice a day if
Sow begonia, gloxiana, Sow half-hardy annuals and begin damping down, keeping plants in when necessary. Where most cineraria for winter flowering. Sow necessary. Maintain humidity by
strepocarpus in heat, also those sowing bedding plants. Sow celery flower dry. Begin feeding plants in plants require shade permanent Begonia semperflorens for winter damping down, spraying and
seeds listed under Cold and Cool and brassicas for transplanting into active growth and those due for summer shading can be applied flowering. syringing frequently.
greenhouses for sowing in a the open garden. Sow tuberous spring flowering. this month. Continue feeding and Take cuttings of most plants, Continue to sow primula,
propagator. begonia seeds in a propagating Sow tomato, cucumber, pepper, be on the alert for increasing pest especially euphorbia, azalea, calceolaria, cineraria, and zinnia
Bring in bulbs for forcing. Force case. eggplant, melon stocks, aster, and disease problems. Fumigate heaths, and begonia. Pot on for early autumn flowering in pots.
early-flowering azaleas and other Take cuttings of chrysanthemum, zinnia, coleus. Prick off seedlings the greenhouse against pests if rooted cuttings and prick on Sow gloxiana and begonia for
flowering shrubs. Force seakale, fuchsia, salvia and perpetual - grown from previous month's possible. seedlings. Harden off seedlings as flowering the following year.
witloof chicory and rhubarb boxed carnations. sowing. necessary in a frame. Take cuttings of fuchsia, hydrangea,
up in the autumn. Box up dahlia tubers in peat to Take cuttings of dahlia, fuchsia, Take softwood cuttings of Move remaining potted bulbs into tuberous begonia, rockea and other
Take softwood cuttings of begonia promote growth for cuttings next hydrangea, solanum, salvia. camellia, fuchsia, osmanthus and the open garden or frame for succulents.
and geranium. month. Continue re-potting. Divide ferns other suitable plants. plunging.
Root succulents, coleus, Continue re-potting and pot up and cannas if necessary. Repot azaleas, camellias and other Pot on gloxiana, celosia, begonia. Pot chrysanthemums into flowering
philodendron, tradescantia and rooted cuttings. Stop decorative chrysanthemums shrubs after they have finished Pot on chrysanthemums and stand pots. Pot on as necessary young
other plants which develop aerial Bring more bulbs and shrubs in for and perpetual carnations flowering. Trim plants into shape the pots outdoors in full sun. plants grown from seeds and
roots. flowering. propagated from cuttings taken at the same time. Pot on fuchsia, cuttings.
Check perennials and re-pot those Bring in batches of primula, and earlier in the year. petunia and zonal pelargonium. Hand-pollinate melons.
that are getting pot-bound. cineraria. Move orchids and camellias into Re-pot orchids. Feed tuberous begonias.
Clear out unwanted, sickly or Force lily of the valley. shady areas of the greenhouse. Move seedlings of half-hardy
overcrowded plants. Bring in begonia tubers, place in annuals and bedding plants to a
Prepare pots, flats and benches flats of peat and start into growth. frame to harden off before planting
for seed sowing and propagation. Pot up as leaves appear. out. Move winter-flowering bulbs
to a frame and plunge.

The year in a warm greenhouse 2

green, broadly white-veined leaves with as foliage plants, both having dark green succeeding pages. Annuals and the other light shade and moderate humidity. For
spikes of yellow bracts and flowers. 2 - 3 f t . leaves felted with purple hairs. C. aurantiaca flowering plants listed in the cool greenhouse propagation, see pages 6 0 - 6 1 .
( alathea spp. Many plants in this genus are is shrubby, C. sarmentosa has a trailing habit. section can be grown in a warm house. Streptocarpus (cape primrose). S. rex/7 and its
grown as house plants. They need a minimum Iresine spp. Several members of this genus Coleus Thyrsoideus. This sub-shrub carries hybrids have dark wrinkled leaves and clusters
temperature of 16"C/60"F. C. Makoyana (pea- are grown as short-term foliage plants in pots. clusters of blue flowers in winter. It is best of funnel-shaped flowers in a variety of
cock plant) is one of the most striking, with The beefsteak plant (/. herbstil) has deep red- raised annually from cuttings in spring. 3 ft. colors. Shade tolerant.
oval leaves yellow-green above with a bold purple oval leaves on red stems. Columnea. These trailing plants are very well
patterning of large and small dark green ovals. Maranta leuconeura (prayer plant). This low- suited to hanging baskets. C. glorosa has Shrubs and climbers
The same pattern is reproduced in red on the growing spreading plant can be used at the pendant chains of small reddish leaves and The following species which survive at a
undersides of the leaves. 3 ft. front of a bench bed. Species have varied- tubular red flowers in winter and spring. winter minimum of 13°C/55°F.
Cyperus altemifolius (umbrella grass). Not colored leaves. Crossandra infundiluliformis. A shrubby peren- Acalphya hispada. This shrub has large oval
botanically a grass, this plant provides a nial, this plant carries fan-shaped pink to red leaves and crimson tassel like flower clusters.
valuable contrast to broad-leaved plants. It Peperomia spp. Plants from this genus grown flowers for much of the year. The foliage is It will grow to 6 ft, but can be kept to half this
requires plenty of moisture. 2-4ft. for their foliage have shrubby, trailing and attractive. 2-3 ft. height by pruning.
Dieffenbachia (dumb cane). Species include climbing habits. Many are epithytes, and all Antigonon leptopus (coral vine). Fast-growing
D. amoena, with white spotted leaves and need a free-draining soil mix. lusticia spp. Several are grown as annuals and needing plenty of space, this twining
D. picta with smaller, deep green ivory Pilea. Two species are grown as foliage plants. from spring cuttings. /. carnea has pink to climber has narrow leaves and small bright
flushed leaves. The variety D. p. 'Rudolph P. cadierei is a bushy plant with elliptic leaves purple tongue-like flowers in autumn. It can pink flowers in clusters. 10 ft or more.
Roehrs' has longer, almost entirely yellow patterned with silvery blotches. P. microphylla reach 4 - 6 ft if regularly potted on. J.. rizzenii Coffea arabica 'Nana' (dwarf coffee). The
leaves with whitish blotches and green has sprays of small leaves. The inconspicuous has an arching habit and clusters of scarlet coffee tree has shiny dark green leaves,
mid-rib and leaf margins. All thrive best at flowers shed pollen explosively, hence the and yellow flowers for much of the year. fragrant white flowers and red berry-like
above 16°C/60°F. 3 ft or more. vernacular name of artillery plant. Rhoeo spathaca (boat lily). Small white flowers fruits. 3-6 ft.
Fittonia verschaffelti. This trailing plant has are carried on boat-shaped bracts in the leaf Dipladenia spendens. A vigorous twining
olive-green leaves with an elaborate net- Flowering plants axils. Becomes clump-forming with age. 1ft. climber with large pink flowers. Tuberous-
work of red veins. Plants listed below are perennials. Other Saintpaulia ionantha (African violet). Easy to rooted, it should be cut back hard each
Gynura (velvet plant). Two species are grown flowering plants appear in the bulbs list, and propagate, and compact, this plant has winter. 10 ft.
orchids and begonias are discussed on the become very popular. Maintain 16°C/60°F,

July August September October November December

Ventilate night and day according Prepare heating system for autumn Remove permanent shading and Reduce watering and cut humidity. Cut ventilation to the minimum, Maintain minimum temperatures,
to temperature. Maintain a moist operation. Order fuel if necessary. start the main heating system, Continue to ventilate and provide opening the house only in the ventilate carefully and water
atmosphere and keep all plants Use a fan or kerosene heater to setting the thermostat to maintain heat as necessary. Do not allow air middle of the day. Water sparingly sparingly. Only those plants in
well watered. Shade as necessary. maintain night temperature in the necessary minimum night to become stagnant through and reduce humidity. Keep bloom or about to bloom will need
If necessary, repaint the greenhouse unseasonal weather. Continue temperature. Continue to water inadequate ventilation, or mildew temperature above the minimum much water. Cure drafts and
interior, choosing a spell of settled watering, shading and pest and and damp down freely and may occur. Wash down the glass, but not too warm. insulate wherever possible.
weather for the task and moving disease control. ventilate when necessary. inside and out, to permit Re-pot lilies. Bring in early bulbs Bring in more bulbs for forcing. Cut
the plants outside or into a frame. Sow more annuals for spring Temperatures may range from maximum light penetration during from the frame. back chrysanthemums as they
Maintain the pest control flowering. Sow cyclamen. very warm to freezing, so control winter. Bring primulas and calceolaria in finish flowering, and place the
program. Look out for and combat Take cuttings of half-hardy ventilation carefully. Pot up tulips and further batches from the frame or cool house for stools in a frame. Bring in azaleas,
fungal diseases. bedding plants such as geranium, Pot up more bulbs for winter of other bulbs for winter and early flowering. deutzia, primula, cineraria and
Continue to sow primula, also take softwood cuttings such flowering. Place cyclamen, spring flowering. Bring in remaining Lift and store begonia tubers. cyclamen for winter flowering.
cineraria, calceolaria, also first as coleus, begonia, tradescantia, cineraria and primula into chrysanthemums. Box up seakale, witloof chicory and Force seakale and witloof chicory.
batches of annuals for winter and regal and fancy pelargoniums. flowering pots. Re-pot all plants that have outgrown rhubarb for forcing.
spring flowering. Feed and water chrysanthemums their pots during the summer.
placed outdoors. Tie them in to Bring into the greenhouse azaleas, Bring in any perennial bedding
Take cuttings of hydrangeas and stakes to prevent wind damage. camellias and other perennials plants and tub or pot fruit trees
other plants not propagated in Pot up first batch of bulbs for which have spent the summer in and shrubs needing winter
June. winter flowering. Pot on cineraria the open garden. Bring in protection.
Re-pot freesias and pot on cuttings and primula grown from seed. chrysanthemums for autumn Plant climbers and fruit trees and
and seedlings planted earlier in the flowering. bushes. Feed cyclamen, camellia,
year as necessary. Pot on perpetual Spray and wipe down the leaves of cineraria and primula.
carnations and place them in an foliage plants.
open frame. Prune woody climbers. Pinch out
Move remaining winter-flowering the flower buds on fibrous begonias
shrubs to a frame or outdoor to encourage winter flowering.
plunge bed.

Using frames 1

A frame is a versatile piece of equipment placed round the walls. Whichever heating Growing early carrots in a heated frame 2 Rake in 2 - 3 oz of general fertilizer then
which can be used as an extension <>l the system is chosen (see also pages 18-23) it water well. Close the frame.
greenhouse or on its own. A frame is parti- should always include an accurate thermo- 1 February Dig garden soil in the frame.
cularly useful for a gardener without a green- stat to aid careful regulation of the growing Place heating cables in the frame and cover 4 March As seedlings develop t h i n (if
house, especially if it can be heated, for given conditions within the frame. them with 6 in of good garden soil. necessary) to 1—11/2 in apart. Remove all
the restrictions in size, a heated frame can be Insulation To help conserve the heat built up thinnings. Water to firm. Replace lights.
used for most of the plants that can be grown in a frame during the day, the frame lights can 3 A week later Sow seed in drills 4 in apart
in a greenhouse. Both heated and unheated be covered on cold nights with burlap sack- or broadcast at 1/12 oz per square yard. Set 6 April Remove lights completely when all
frames can be used for raising new plants, ing or a roll of old carpet. Place blocks of thermostat to 18°C/65°F. Keep frame shut. chance of frost is past. Store lights in a
including early vegetables; for extending the wood carefully on top of the sacking or carpet safe place. Harvest carrots as needed.
growing season; for hardening off green- to prevent it from blowing away. Alter- 5 As weather warms open lights on sunny
house-grown plants before they are planted natively, buy a special sheet with eyelet days but close them at night. Plants will
out in the garden; for overwintering plants holes and tie it to wooden pegs placed in the now need more water.
such as chrysanthemums and for plunging soil. The sides of the frame can also be
potted bulbs that will later be taken indoors insulated by lining them with bales of straw
to bloom. The soil, mix or other growing encased in chicken wire.
medium placed in the frame will depend on
the exact use to which the frame is put. Ventilation
The main shapes and sizes of frames are Plants grown in heated and cold frames need
described in detail on page 7. The frame good ventilation to encourage free air circu-
should be deep enough to accommodate the lation. Poor ventilation increases air humidity
plants to be grown in it. within the frame and encourages the growth
of disease-causing organisms. Make sure that
Siting the lights of the frame can be opened at
A frame can be placed abutting a greenhouse several different levels and that they can
or on its own. If one wall of the frame is easily be removed altogether. For ventilation
placed against the greenhouse wall the frame the lights may be propped open with a block
will benefit from improved insulation and re- of wood, or a brick, or pushed back entirely
duced heat loss. Another advantage is that off the frame and placed at an angle over the
the heating system of the greenhouse can frame with one end on the ground, as long
usually be extended to serve the frame. Place as they will not blow away. In very windy
a frame that is to be used on its own in an weather secure the lights with cord wound
open, sunny, easily accessible position that round cleats screwed to the frame wall, or
affords plenty of light and some shelter from by hooks and eyes.
high winds. Never place a frame in a corner
of the garden known to be a frost pocket. The Watering
general rules for siting frames and green- To water the plants in a frame the lights can
houses are further explained on pages 12-13. simply be lifted or removed. Always water
plants with a rose fitted to the watering can
Heating or hose so that soil is not washed away from
A cold frame, that is a frame with no form of around plant roots. Semi-automatic watering
heating, is less useful than a heated frame with a perforated hose or capillary watering
which will allow a wider range of plants to be as used in the greenhouse (see pages 24-26)
grown. In a heated frame, early vegetables are also effective and time-saving. In the
will be ready for cropping sooner and there capillary system, water is supplied via a trickle
is less chance of tender plants failing to sur- irrigation line which ensures a slow, steady
vive the winter. A heating system for a frame water supply to the growing medium in the
works by heating the soil and/or the air. Soil frame. W h e n the frame is not in use and in the
heating can be provided by electric cables or, summer, remove the lights so that the soil can
if the frame is abutting a heated greenhouse, get a good natural watering from the rain.
by hot water pipes. The air in a frame can be This will also help to prevent a damaging
heated by electric cables or hot water tubes build-up of mineral salts in the soil.

Using frames 2

Light and shading drainage or, if a capillary watering system is on a perforated polyethylene sheet placed in tains heat better and is cooled less by the
To ensure maximum entry of light, keep frame used, on a 2 in layer of coarse sand placed on the frame. If necessary, make provision for wind. Vegetables sown in a cold frame will
lights clean at all times and renovate and a thick sheet of polyethylene. Note that seeds any particular needs of the crop to be grown still crop earlier than those sown outdoors
clean them in summer. As in the greenhouse, planted in pots or boxes will need more care —lettuces for example do best in humus-rich with no protection. Among the best crops for
plants in a frame risk being scorched and in watering as they dry out more quickly than soil while carrots prefer soil that has not been the cold frame are cucumbers, zucchinis,
badly damaged by hot sun. To prevent this, those planted direct into the soil. Seedlings of freshly manured. melons, smaller squashes and outdoor tom
apply a shading compound to the inside of tender or half-hardy plants raised in a heated Care of seedlings Freshly sown seed of most atoes. Cucumber and similar seeds are best
the frame lights as necessary, or place a sheet frame will also need hardening off before vegetable crops will germinate best at a tem- pre-germinated at a temperature of 21°C
of muslin or small mesh plastic netting over they are planted out into the garden. perature of 18°C/65°F so this is the ideal 70°F before being planted in the cold frame
the frame on hot, sunny days. The covering thermostat setting for seed planted in late in early May. Ventilate the frame as necessary
can be rolled back in cloudy weather. Early crops in a heated frame winter or early spring. On cold nights, insu- during the day and close it down at night
Carrots, radishes, lettuces, beets and spring late the frame with burlap or similar material. until plants are established then remove the
Raising seed onions are among the many vegetables that The frame should be ventilated during the lights in June.
can be grown in a heated frame for early day as long as the weather is not very cold or
Seed of all kinds can be sown in a heated or cropping and for eating when young and windy. In bad weather ensure maximum For outdoor tomatoes, raise seeds indoors
unheated frame in pots, boxes or flats or tender. Months of planting for heated frames entry of light by washing all debris off the and plant them out in the cold frame in May
directly into prepared soil. Turn on the heat- are shown in the list above. lights regularly. As the weather warms the or early June. Ventilate the frame as neces-
ing system, if there is one, for a day or two Soil Most early crops can be sown in the lights can be opened wider during the day sary but do not remove the lights completely
before sowing to warm the soil. Seeds of frame direct into good well-dug garden soil and closed at night. Once all risk of frost is until the plants are well established, by
hardy plants can be sown in a heated frame enriched with well-rotted manure, compost past and plants are well established, the which time they will have probably outgrown
as early as February, seeds of tender plants or peat, plus 2-3 oz of a general well-balanced lights can be removed altogether, cleaned the height of the frame. The lights can be
from late February to March. For an un- fertilizer per square yard. If the garden top and stored and the heating system turned off. replaced at the end of the season to help
heated frame, add on another month to six soil is very stony or shallow, it may be prefer- ripen the last fruits and combat frost.
weeks in each case, and more if the spring able to replace the top 1-11/2 ft with new Crops in a cold frame
is a cold one. Seedlings in pots or boxes are good-quality top soil or to replace the soil For vegetables, a cold frame provides similar Cuttings
best placed in the frame on a 3 in layer of completely with good sterilized soil placed protection to cloches (see page 94) but re- Cuttings of all types can be grown in a frame.
gravel or weathered ashes to allow good Use a heated frame for cuttings of tender

Hardening off in an unheated frame

1 Spring As air temperature rises, place 2 During first week (weather permitting) 3 During second week leave lights open a 4 In third week remove plants from the
boxes or pots of greenhouse-reared leave lights half open during the day for little at night. Towards end of week remove frame and plant in their permanent
seedlings or cuttings in the frame. ventilation but close down each night. lights completely except in windy weather. positions in the garden.

Using frames 3

Softwood shrub cuttings can be planted in a Overwintering and storage The plunge bed OVERWINTERING
cold frame in June, semi-hard ones in July A frame can act as a useful protected storage A plunge bed is a bed of damp sand, peat or a
and August. See pages 57-59 for details. site for plants during the winter and, at the mixture of gravel and weathered coal ashes Heated and unheated frames are very use-
same time, save valuable space in the green- 1ft deep into which pots are buried or ful for storing and protecting flowering
Hardening off house. A heated frame will be needed for plunged up to their rims. A plunge bed in a plants in winter, so freeing valuable green-
Many tender or half-hardy plants raised in the tender plants such as pelargoniums and cold frame is useful for accommodating house space. Use a heated frame for
greenhouse need to be put through a "tough- fuchsias which should be placed in the frame plants throughout the year. From spring on- tender plants such as pelargoniums. Lift
ening-up" process called hardening off before in September. In the same month, freesias wards, as alpines finish flowering in the alpine plants from the garden in autumn, cut
they are planted out into the garden. A cold can be potted up and placed in a heated house, transfer them to the plunge bed. them back and plant in boxes before
frame is ideal for this purpose. In spring, when frame. Outdoor chrysanthemums can be Plunge the pots up to their rims and keep the placing them in the frame. Similarly, make
there is no risk of tender or half-hardy plants overwintered in an unheated frame after they bed damp but never let it become dry or chrysanthemum "stools" by cutting back
being exposed to frost once they are in their have been cut back and boxed in a pro- waterlogged. The cool moist environment of plants to within 4 - 6 in of the ground
permanent positions in the garden, take pots prietary potting mix. The frame should be well the plunge bed will produce good strong before boxing them up and placing them
or boxes of young plants from the greenhouse ventilated except in very severe weather to growth. Similarly, pot-grown greenhouse in an unheated frame. Ventilate well..
and place them in the frame. For one week help prevent diseases such as botrytis, which plants can be plunged in summer, which will
leave the lights open during the day (as long are encouraged by stagnant air. prevent them from drying out too quickly.
as the weather is not cold or windy) but close Storage A cold frame can be employed to During the summer there is no need to place
them at night. During the second week, leave store dormant bulbs and tubers that are the lights on the frame.
the lights open a little at night. Towards the susceptible to frost damage. After lifting Bulb forcing In winter, use the plunge bed for
end of the second week open the frame as dahlia tubers, for example, pack them in forcing bulbs. Plant bulbs in pots, plunge them
wide as possible at night. In the third week boxes of dry peat before storing them in a and cover the pots with a 3 in layer of peat.
the plants can be planted in their permanent heated frame. Store bulbs in a cold frame Place the lights over the frame, leaving them
positions in the garden. loosely packed in wooden boxes with plenty open a little for ventilation. After eight weeks
of room for air to circulate between them. the bulbs will have formed good root systems
Make sure the frame is well ventilated but and can be taken indoors in succession for
guard against damp which can cause rot. flowering.

Plunging bulbs in an unhealed frame

1 October Fill frame with a 1 ft layer of sand, 2 Plant hyacinth bulbs in pots then plunge 3 Place lights over frame to protect pots 4 After eight weeks Remove pots from
peat or a mixture of gravel and weathered up to their rims in the frame. Cover with from heavy winter rainfall. Keep the frame frame and take indoors in sequence for
coal ashes. Water and allow to settle. a 3 in layer of peat to exclude light. well ventilated. flowering.

Using cloches

Cloches provide plants with virtually the same over. Any cloches likely to be overturned by protected according to its specific needs and STORING CLOCHES
protection as cold frames, except that they strong winds should have fittings to anchor make sure that the same crop is not grown
retain heat rather less well and that the air them to the ground or should be secured in the same soil two years running. Before Store cloches not in use by stacking them
inside them is cooled more quickly by the with string tied to pegs placed in the ground. sowing seed or planting out seedlings raised on their ends in a sheltered corner of the
wind. The advantage of cloches is that they Leave plenty of room between rows of in a greenhouse or heated frame, put the garden where they will not get broken or
are more mobile and versatile to use. Cloches cloches for easy access and watering. cloches in position and leave them for two blown over by strong winds.
can be employed in many ways—to warm to three weeks to dry and warm the soil. A
the soil before seeds are sown; for raising Ventilation dressing of balanced fertilizer can be raked in
seedlings, especially half-hardy annual bed- Ventilation is essential to prevent the build- before cloches are positioned.
ding plants and vegetables to extend the up of stagnant, over-moist airthat encourages
growing season at each end of the year; to disease. If single cloches are placed in rows, Watering
protect individual plants, particularly alpines, always leave a small gap between each one Cloches need only be removed for watering
from cold and wet and to save blooms from if the cloches have no built-in ventilation if they are covering small seedlings which
splashing and spoiling by mud; to provide system such as adjustable top or sides. In the need a very even sprinkling of water. Other-
shelter from cold and wind and to ripen off case of a polyethylene tunnel sides can be wise, water can be applied to cloches from
onions and similar crops in poor weather. lifted and supported with a pot or wooden overhead with a watering can or hose if there
Cloches can also be used to spread the season block. The gaps between the cloches can be is insufficient rain. The water runs down the
of cut flowers. Rows of gladioli, for example, increased if necessary to let in more air, but sides of the cloches and is absorbed into the
tend to flower at the same time, but if half is to avoid too much draft, and consequent soil, reaching the roots of the plants which
cloched, the cutting period is lengthened. heat loss, close the ends with purchased grow naturally towards sources of food and
cloche ends or with a sheet of glass or thick water. For long rows of cloches it is also
Using cloches plastic held in place with a wooden stake. possible to supply water via a sprinkler or
Cloches should be placed in an open position irrigation tubing placed between the rows.
away from the shade of trees. Never put them Soil preparation On light soil make a shallow channel on the
in a very windy place where they will cool Before placing cloches in position, prepare outside of each cloche in which water can
quickly and risk being damaged or blown the soil for the plants or crop that is to be easily collect and drain into the soil.

Year-round uses for cloches

1 January Place cloches over soil prepared 2 Early spring Use cloches to protect newly 3 Autumn In rainy weather place harvested 4 Winter Single cloches can be put over
for seed sowing. Leave for 2 - 3 weeks to dry sown seed and seedlings. Close cloche ends onions under cloches to dry out before alpines such as cushion plants susceptible
and warm soil. Do not close cloche ends. but ventilate well according to type. storage. Ventilate well. Leave ends open. to rotting in wet soil.