The History of Minimalism in Fashion

JIL SANDER SS 1996 GUINEVERE
VAN SEENUS BY CRAIG MCDEAN

Shalom Harlow by Craig McDean
Autumn/Winter 1996

CALVIN KLEIN

AMERICAN DESIGNERS

Calvin Klein is possibly the most influential American
minimalist fashion designer of the 90’s. Having grown
up in New York City in the 60’s and 70’s Calvin Klein
had a unique perspective on fashion in America, and
New York Cities growing influence on the industry. This
unique perspective is what allowed him to be able to
capture and produce the zeitgeist of the 90’s at the
exact same moment as Helmut Lang. Often compared,
and even accused of stealing ideas from each other,
these two changed the fashion industry and defined an
era. While Langs fashion was extremely similar, it always
had a German touch. For Klein, the opposite was true,
his looks perfectly embodied young Americans at the
time. The 80’s was all about glamour and extravagance,
while the 90’s swung the other direction to an extreme
casual. Klein embraced this and became known for his
basics, light and easy fabrics, and uncomplicated
silhouettes. Klein also capitalized on the casual and
cool look of denim, gone were the days of formal work
attire, people began wearing denim everyday. He even
became known for his undergarments, which were all
cotton and simple.

minimal | 52

One of his best selling items every season was the slip
dress, more casual than those of Vionnet, but show
after show he managed to make them feel different,
easy, and chic. His no fuss collections fit in everywhere
from New York City to San Diego, creating the perfect
wardrobe no matter who you were or where you lived.
Kleins collections embodied the attitude that had
come in with the new decade, that of wearing what
you want because you like it and you feel good in it, not
to please others. His Spring/Summer 1994 collection is
one of the most talked about shows, even today. His
short simple slips, light weight and loose fabrics, and
dusty neutral colors combined so perfectly they would
not look out of place even today. Many of his minimalist
companions had a hasty and early retirement following
the 90’s, Lang and Sander retired in 2005, and Margiela
and Deleumleester retired in 2009 and 2013. Unlike his
peers, Klein seamlessly rolled into the next millennia
and continued to define fashion in the early aughts. For
the past ten years his empire has only continued to
grow and expand, you are sure to find some sort of
Calvin Klein product in most American homes today.

minimal | 53

Spring/Summer
1996

Kate Moss for
Calvin Klein Campaign

SS/Ste1v9e9n5 MCaemiseplaign

Spring/Summer
1994

minimal | 56

YNKD Even though she doesn’t like the title, Donna Karan is known as one of the
great American minimalist fashion designers. Along with Calvin Klein, Donna
Karan embraced making easy and fashionable clothes for your everyday girl.
She focused on basics, simple colors, and pieces that could mix and match
without much effort. She was a modern woman who valued practicality, and
she knew her customers were the same way. What really launched her into
success was her Seven Easy Pieces concept that she came up with in the 80s.
These were seven essential pieces that could all be mixed and matched
together in different ways to keep getting dressed simple. No matter what
combination you chose, you were sure to look chic and put together. This
along with her comfortable bodysuits made her a must watch designer in the
80’s and 90’s. Just as Klein had done, Karan expanded her product categories
to include things like denim, undergarments and fragrance. As with any great
minimalist influencer, Karan put emphasis on her construction and tailoring
rather than flashy embellishments and colors. Her's were clothes that women
could feel great wearing to work or out on the town. She designed simple and
professional pants suits and blazers that were actually made to fit women's
bodies. One of her most famous shows was the Spring/Summer ‘95 collection
when she sent the first four models down the runway with just a low cut black
skirt and their arms covering their chest, the ultimate minimalist outfit.

Spring/Summer
1995

Shalom Harlow and Mark
Vanderloo for DKNY SS95.
Photography Peter Lindbergh

Autumn/Winter
1989

Autumn/Winter Campaign
1997

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