www.nzira.co.zw Issue 19 1 Travel Zimbabwe www.nzira.co.zw Issue 19 | 2022 US$5 Tropical Bliss On the Zambezi Mpala Jena Win a 2 night stay for 2 at Hideaways Shashani Matobo Hills with NZiRA Travel Zimbabwe
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4 Issue 19 NZiRA Travel Zimbabwe CONTENTS Mpala Jena – Tropical Bliss On the Zambezi Exploring some of Zimbabwe’s Hidden Gems 8 16 Conservation in the Zambesia Region Hideaways Shashani Matobo Hills: Where the Veil Between Heaven and Ea爀琀h is Thin Gonorezhou: Wild at Hea爀琀, Free in Spirit Lemon & lavender Cream Pie with Sindambi The Wonky Donkey - Gin Recipe Chizarira Binga 4x4 Expedition Enhance a Life, Create a Future Wildlife Through Brush Strokes 13 18 23 35 38 40 42 46
www.nzira.co.zw Issue 19 5 CONTENTS Mana from Heaven Women’s Wilderness Retreats African Bush Gourmet Seesu Gin - Zimbabwean Moments In A Bo琀琀le 26 29 32 36
6 Issue 19 NZiRA Travel Zimbabwe
www.nzira.co.zw Issue 19 7 EDITOR’S NOTE PUBLISHER Mike Garden [email protected] +263 772 209 162 EDITORIAL & ADVERTISING Rudo Nhamoinesu [email protected] Tel: 024 2782720 DESIGN AND LAYOUT Tamuka Nyoni [email protected] +263 775 363 706 DISCLAIMER Whilst every effort is made to check the content of any article, the directors will not be held responsible for any errors or omissions in such articles. We accept that all articles and photographs sent to us are the sole responsibility of the authors and we do not accept liability for any misrepresentation. Events listed, the dates thereof, and prices are printed using information supplied to us that we are satis昀椀ed are correct at the time of printing. Nzira publication is the exclusive property of Ndeipi (Pvt) Ltd Media Use the QR code to visit our website for more articles. Contact us for subscriptions 024 2782720 On the cover - Mplala Jena Zambezi River Camp main area PRINTER InfoNzira nziramagazine Nzira From fie Editor he green season or the “secret season” as it is better known is one very special that we have the privilege of experiencing in our beautiful country. The landscape turns from the dusty brown of the dry season to thriving green vegetation, nourishing rains bring vitality to the different plant species producing a thousand shades of green. This greenery has a positive impact on the human mind and emotions, which allow us to renew and revitalise. During this time, the colours are bright and vivid allowing for incredible photographic opportunities and the breeding migratory birds that visit at this time are spectacular and any birder's paradise! It is also a season that we celebrate fresh growth and new life with many baby animal births, for anyone who has witnessed a birth in the wild can attest to just how special this is. In the tourism industry, the Green Season is the “specials season,” marked by incredible discounts that allow international and local travellers to have an exclusive safari experience with fewer crowds at lower costs. An intimate adventure that allows for uninterrupted game drives or boat cruises- you will feel like the bush or the Zambezi is all yours! As the biodiversity 昀氀ourishes during this time, the travel industry also celebrates different aspects of growth- the recent Africa's Eden Show in Victoria Falls, the launch of a new Fastjet Route (Victoria Falls-Kruger), and the opening of a new luxury campMpala Jena Zambezi River Camp which we had the pleasure of visiting. We also celebrate a steady increase in accommodation and activity bookings by the local and international market, just what the industry needs after a rough two years! In this issue, Tyler challenges all women to rediscover and reconnect with nature through a Wilderness Retreat, Zambesia Conservation reminds us of the importance of conserving the biodiversity of the Zambesia region as a collective and award-winning Wild-life photographer takes us on a journey to Mana Pools. We hope that through each article you gain fresh perspective and feel inspired to travel and experience what our beautiful country has to offer! Yours, T Rudo Nhamoinesu. We have an exciting competition running with the Hideaways Group. You stand a chance to win a 2-night stay for 2 at the Hideaways Shashani Lodge, Matopos! To enter, answer the following question "The Matobo National Park is rich in…………………". The answers are in the Shashani article! HOW TO ENTER 1. Send your answer to our @nziramagazine Instagram and Facebook DM or email it to [email protected]. 2. Like our pages @nziramagazine and @hideawaysafrica 3. Like and share the competition post on our social platforms (keep your eyes peeled) 4. Tag your travel buddy in the comments and tell us why you should visit this incredible place! 5. Get Ready to pack your bags! T&Cs apply COMPETITION TIME! Travel Zimbabwe Paragon Printing and Packaging 17035 Cedora Road, Graniteside, Harare Tel: 024-2773021/7 Email: [email protected]
8 Issue 19 NZiRA Travel Zimbabwe s you step off the boat, onto the Mpala Jena sands, there is a sense of tranquility that overtakes you; the white sand, the river 昀氀owing gently, a warm breeze hitting against your skin makes you feel like you are in a tropical paradise. You are quickly offered a refresher towel and a welcome cocktail, all this combined puts you in a breezy carefree mood, city blues are soon forgotten as you kick off your shoes. A “Tropics in the Zambezi” feeling upon arrival is what you are promised, shoes off, sand under your feet, and a beach right in front of you makes it all the better! This was our 昀椀rst experience at the new luxury camp - Mpala Jena Zambezi River Camp, set along the majestic Zambezi River marketed by Great Plains and owned by the Lang family. The camp is located within the Zambezi National Park, on a private concession, and it can be accessed by road using a 4x4 vehicle or by boat transfer. For this particular trip, we drove from Harare via Bulawayo to Vic Falls. As we arrived at the A’Zambezi dock in Victoria Falls after a long journey, we were grateful to 昀椀nd Wellington, the Mpala Jena boat captain waiting to ferry us off to our next adventure. A quick bag transfer and a forewarning of 2 rapids later, we were ready to set sail! The Mpala Jena speedboat is modern, comfortable and it came with a fully stocked cooler box of courtesy drinks to keep us hydrated throughout our 30-minute transfer. Being on the Zambezi, on this lovely summer's day was spectacularlight blue skies with delicate clouds, sun glitter re昀氀ecting on the water's waves, beautiful green landscapes all around, and an ice-cold drink in hand, perfection! Crossing the rapids was a thrilling and adrenalin-pumping adventure, while bird and wildlife sightings along the way made this a marvelous boat ride. Who knew a transfer could be this glamorous! As we drew nearer to the camp, the scenery began to change into a dazzling beachfront with white sand shimmering under the sun. The Mpala A Article | Rudo Nhamoinesu - NZiRA Magazine Images | Mpala Jena Zambezi River Camp Tropical Bliss On the Zambezi Mpala Jena
www.nzira.co.zw Issue 19 9 Jena team, who we later knew as Rabbon and Blessed were waving to us with smiles from ear to ear ready to welcome us. Mpala Jena means "white Impala" in the Batonka dialect, a name derived from albino impala sightings by guides in 1979. A 昀椀tting name to describe this rare gemZimbabwe’s White Impala. The camp prides itself in providing its visitor a fresh alternative to most traditional camps, challenging the safari scene with a brand new offering “barefoot luxury.” This intimate camp consists of 3 guest tents and 2 family tents that were built in 2021. Owners Kevin and Shannon, the architect team of Craig Hayman and Hannah Charlton, and Zimbabwe-born interior designer Tracy Kelly took time to plan, and create a camp that is ecofriendly, creative, luxurious, playful, and ensured that their design had a green footprint. The team worked remotely on this project, Craig's knowledge of the Zambezi River and its landscape came in handy during the planning process, each building built with its own unique aspect and purpose, and in their distinctiveness blends well together. Craig worked with skilled local artisans to bring to life his hand-drawn designs of the stonework and buildings. Aspects such as the river weighed in on his design, its movement, the landscape, curved textures of the rocks, and the Great Zimbabwe which inspired the stonework. The team’s belief in handcrafted products allowed for many charming imperfections around the camp such as the 昀椀replace in the main lounge, it also allowed the artisans to be creative while sticking to his guide. The buildings are all river facing and offer incredible views, each view is presented differently and provides a different experience based on where you are in camp. To ensure sustainability and reduce energy use, they created open and inviting spaces promoting natural light and cross breezes, and solar power to run the camp. For their cooling system thatch roo昀椀ng and fans are used throughout the main area keeping the guests cool during a hot summer's day. Walking to the camp was a very special experience, the uniqueness of the camp stops you in your tracks and for a moment you are mesmerised by what is before you and you can see the thought and effort the team has put in. Rabbon, the Camp manager, who I am sure is now very used to guests' excitement ushered us to the main area for check-in and understood our multiple "photographic stops" along the way. The main camp area includes the main lounge, bar, restrooms, and pool area. The infrastructure is complemented by the great efforts of Tracy, a renowned South African designer who worked with the architects to bring the lodge design to life through its interiors and 昀椀nishings. Going off the barefoot, kick-off your shoes relaxed theme, Tracy has created a design that calls for instant relaxation. The use of woven baskets, lightcoloured woods, shapes and curves, versatile fabrics, and a blue-teal cool palette have helped in achieving the look of this lavish tropical camp. The bar is one I had never seen before in Zimbabwenatural elements were used to achieve this design. The light woods continues here, there is a break in decking allowing for a sandy 昀氀oor, thatch roo昀椀ng, swing sets that have replaced bar stools, hammocks, the Zambezi in the background, and Lloyd your ever-ready bartender – a truly magni昀椀cent experience. The bar area, with its various seating options, calls for a relaxed afternoon with a refreshing beverage and a book in hand. Using earthy tones this bar blends well with the surroundings. A stone throw from the bar is the pool area, an area that was designed with tranquility in mind and almost looks like a scene out of a movie! The teal blue pool has a unique curved shape, overlooking the Zambezi, with state-of-the-art changing rooms. These earthy tones seen around the camp are reassuring
10 Issue 19 NZiRA Travel Zimbabwe and settling, and they have been inspired by the sandy textures of the sandbanks. A calm cool palette of blue-teal and greys complement these textures and calm you down instantly on a hot summer's day. These have been cleverly included in cushions, rugs, and accessories around the camp. This colour palette has been inspired by the different shades of the Zambezi at different times of the year, while the Ilala palm has inspired the thatch and the shade of green found on the doors. Shapes have also played a signi昀椀cant role in the design. From shaping the thatch roo昀椀ng, the round baskets on the wall, and the curved chairs that mimic the form of most objects in nature, creating a design that is functional and pleasing to the eye. I found it interesting to note that each of the furniture pieces except for a few have been designed by Tracy herself guaranteeing you a unique experience that goes as far as the furniture itself. Certain pieces such as the desk calendars and tote bags found in the rooms have been made from recycled plastic- carrying on the sustainability train throughout. THE LUXURY SUITES After our check-in, Rabbon took us along a wooden decked path through the luscious green bush, to our suites. As we meandered down this path, we couldn't help but think of the many reasons to visit a camp in the green season, for us at this moment was the rich green spaces and the proli昀椀c birdlife. The tents are set apart in a private bush area, offering guests the privacy of their own secluded paradise. Each tent is river facing with a private deck, offering you glorious views of the magni昀椀cent river. You are promised magical sunrises and sunsets from your deck that comes with a built-in comfortable and cozy daybed, a great place to relax and unwind at any point during the day. I was almost tempted to cross the rest of my day out and lie watching the Zambezi 昀氀ow by, an avian highway for some majestic birds. From the deck, you go through glass sliding doors entering into your luxury suite. Keeping with the natural, relaxed theme and combining it with luxury, the team at Mpala Jena and Tracy have created a room that is functional, comfortable, luxurious capturing the true essence of glamping without being too pretentious. The suite comes with a Kingsized bed (extra length), with the 昀椀nest linen that keeps you cool and feels wonderful against your skin. There is a tea station and mini-fridge that is always stocked up for you and a workstation. The room represents safari chic with a Mpala Jena touch, a stone wall divides the room from the bathroom with black and white artwork by botanical artist Sarah Kelly hanging above the bed. Light-coloured woods give it a clean, airy aesthetic, while the woven baskets, lampshades, and chairs add an artistic tropical feel to the room. The use of grays and teal has a calming effect on the human mind, which we all need on holiday! From the room you walk into the opulent bathroom with a double sink and two wardrobes allowing for two people to share easily, making the room feel a lot more like home. There is a fullwidth mirror that adds light and gives the impression of a larger space. The mirror is also great for Instagram-worthy pictures- I must add! There is a choice of an indoor/ outdoor shower and bath. A great addition to the room, for me, a luxuriating candle-lit bath under the stars makes for a great end to the day as you listen to the hippos and watch the bright starsperfect for a romantic escape. ACTIVITIES Mpala Jena encourages relaxation, an opportunity to switch off yourself from the world and 昀椀nd peace and happiness in your surroundings. You are welcome to sit in camp all day reading a book, swinging by the bar, or taking a stroll down to the bank with a guide where I was fortunate to 昀椀nd elephants drinking on one occasion. Being at the camp itself is an activity! There are however other activities you can participate in, tailored to your needs- sunset or sunrise cruise, game drives, game walks, and 昀椀shing. On our 昀椀rst day, Wellington took us for a sunset cruise, an intimate experience of just us and the Zambezi with no other boats. The river’s vastness, gentle 昀氀ows, and the life it holds bring a sense of intrigue and excitement. There is a pull I believe this river has on the human spirit that promotes a
www.nzira.co.zw Issue 19 11 sense of positivity, peace, and mindfulness. We had great sightings of birds- the birdlife here is incredible, as a newbie in the birding world I appreciated Wellington's guidance, other wildlife included large crocodiles, hippos, and elephants. Wellington found us a perfect sundowner spot, ending our 昀椀rst day’s adventure. On the river under a tree, drinks in hand, we had front row tickets to the most magni昀椀cent sunset, blazing with a festival of colours marking the end of our day. We couldn't help but admire how marvelous and life-changing mother nature can be! GAME DRIVES The morning of our second day, I woke up early to watch the golden rays of the sun. Day dawning softly with 昀氀uffy white clouds drifting in the breeze. A beautiful day in formation. After a quick and delicious breakfast by Chef Tasara, Jason (the General Manager) and I were off. Visiting camps in the green season is special- “The secret season”, a time when nature leaps into vitality. The rains feed the teeming biodiversity and forest 昀氀oors. On our very informative drive, we went round the concession and Park, there is so much to learn of the different bird species and the old baobabs seemed to have stories to tell. Jason stopped at a few banks, and he shared the history of the area (an article for another day!). Of interest during our drive was the work being done by the Mpala Jena for the National Park which Jason shared. CONSERVATION Conservation is an important aspect of Great Plains and Mpala Jena. Kevin and Shannon believe in not just conserving Mpala Jena but the Park itself. They have ventured into projects such as signage and road construction and bridge reconstruction. This project is to create accessibility to the Park, which will make self-drives easier. This is in a bid to encourage the public to use the Park and the various camping sites available. In working with Parks and the community, they are creating employment opportunities and allowing the locals and rangers to take ownership and pride in this Park. There is a strong belief shared by Jason, Kevin and Shannon that these Parks are the people's heritage and they need to be conserved for generations to come. Their work in conserving the park is rede昀椀ning what safari means and challenging what operators should be offering. There is an array of wildlife from giraffes, zebra, kudu, buffalo, elephant, bushbuck, lion, hyena that we had the pleasure of seeing during our trip. All the more reason to conserve this park. There is so much to write about, Mpala Jena is truly a gem, not to mention Chef Tasara’s incredible culinary skills providing us with delicious meals from breakfast to high tea in the pool lounge, to dinner at a different spot every night, the food delectable and full of 昀氀avour! The team and service offered is incredible, from reservations down to the camp itself, it is full of people passionate about their work. I hope you feel inspired to travel and visit Mpala Jena. See you on the road! www.nzira.co.zw Issue 19 11
12 Issue 19 NZiRA Travel Zimbabwe PROMOTION VALID FROM THURSDAY 14 APRIL - MONDAY 18 APRIL 2022 Reawaken Your Spirit Of Adventure This Easter
www.nzira.co.zw Issue 19 13 F or anyone living anywhere near the Zambezi, the Zambesia region is home. We tend to think of home as a country and modern politics forces us to think this way, but in reality, we live in an ecosystem. The borders and boundaries created by man mean little to weather patterns, wildlife, and nature as a whole. The term Zambesia appears often in history and is used currently by countries in this part of Africa to demarcate their territory near the river. Of most signi昀椀cance, the term Zambesia is used by biologists to demarcate a bio geographical Article | Robin Brown Images | Luke Brown Conservation in the Zambesia Region region. At the Zambesia Conservation Alliance (ZCA https://www.zambesia. com/) we believe in seeing the landscape as a whole, with humans and all their in昀氀uences intermingled with nature. Our concern is the preservation of the remaining natural habitat that occurs between the major National Parks and the wildlife that traverses these important areas. Hwange National Park, in Zimbabwe, conjures up images of herds of elephant, lions and buffalo, of teak woodland and Kennedy vlei. You arrive in the "bush" well before you get to the gate at Hwange Main Camp – when turning off the Bulawayo to Victoria Falls highway you are already immersed in the wilderness. You would have driven through and past plenty of wildlife and most de昀椀nitely through some of Zimbabwe's incredible indigenous woodland and forestry areas. There are massive Msasa trees, intermingled with the Teak and the Mchibi trees, swathes of Knob thorn, and banks of Mopane. If like me, you love your trees, you will spot them out of the window and enjoy the transitions from
14 Issue 19 NZiRA Travel Zimbabwe one type of woodland to the next. The proprietors of this area from Lupane to Hwange vary from the Forestry Department, Railways, and private owners, to a large swathe of community-owned land. Zimbabweans and "Zambesians" (From Angola in the west to Mozambique in the east and all the countries in between) should be proud of the wild habitat we still have. At the time of writing, I am in the UK where the people and the Government are paying dearly for the demise of their natural habitat and are consequently spending millions of dollars on rewilding. If we can hold onto what we have in our Zambesia region and avoid the terrible scourge of deforestation and habitat loss, we will be blessed in the years to come, with future generations thanking us for preserving such a priceless asset. If we fail to do so then a high price is going to be paid for such areas when we realise what has been lost and attempt to restore it to its current glory. At the ZCA we are building an umbrella of cooperation with our Outreach Partners who work with communities and landowners in these peripheral areas to the main National Parks, to prevent habitat loss. Our ideology is that the Parks need to "BREATHE". If a National Park is unable to "breathe" it means that we have lost the habitat right up to its boundaries. Inevitably this park will have a much lower carrying capacity of wildlife because animals, trees, birds, and insects need to be able to move in and out of the parks to keep the populations inside the park viable. They can't just be restricted to a National Park and need the ability to "breathe" in and out between the park and its surrounding areas. The work that our Outreach Partners do to conserve these peripheral areas is vital and we at the ZCA are proud to be doing our bit to help them in their endeavours, throughout the Zambesia region. We look forward to sharing more with you in the months and years to come about the Zambesia Conservation Alliance and the work we are doing.
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16 Issue 19 NZiRA Travel Zimbabwe Incredible rock formations can be seen throughout Matobo Hills. Take a walk up the nearest “gomo” and enjoy gorgeous sunrise and sunset moments. arlier this year, I took a mini-road trip to revisit and discover some of Zimbabwe’s lesser-visited areas, including Matobo Hills and Save Valley. Disclaimer: To be honest, the whole trip came about as a result of a craving for the most delicious lemon doughnuts (in the world). Next time you pass through Gweru, do yourself a favour and treat yourself to one or two of these delightful goodies from the Dutch Oven. MATOBO HILLS - AN EARTH CHILD’S PARADISE Driving south from Bulawayo, just after the Matobo Dam, you come around a bend, and quite suddenly the Matobo Hills appear in front of you. Known to many by the anglicised name “Matopos” this area spans 3,100 km². Taking in the sight of the vast land before me, with its unmistakable granite rock outcrops always gives me a sense of coming home. Given this extraordinary landscape, one might begin to understand why Mzilikazi settled his tribe there in the 1800s. There is so much history and many points of interest in this incredible place. However, I am not a historian nor a quali昀椀ed guide, and would certainly not be considered a credible source for facts on Matobo (or elsewhere). So, don’t take anything you read here as truth, but rather seek out your own knowledge. In writing this, I simply hope to inspire you to travel yourself (even if only to Gweru for those lemon doughnuts). The Matobo National Park comprises an area of 424 km² within the wider Matobo Hills. This UNESCO world heritage site features several cultural and historical sites, including caves with rock paintings and Rhodes’ Grave. The National Park is home to a whole host of bird and mammal species, most notably both the critically endangered black rhino and white rhino. The Matobo area also has the highest concentration of Verraeux’s (black) eagles in the world, and if you look closely at a map of the Matobo National Park, you’ll notice that it resembles the shape of an eagle. This is a land of endless wonder and there will always be something to inspire or amaze you. Each time I have visited Matobo, the experience has been unique and there’s always been an element of discovery. Top Tip: If you stop in Bulawayo on your way to Matobo (which is just 35 km south of the city), lunch at Smokehouse and a walk at Hillside Dams is a great way to spend a few hours. On this occasion, I stayed at the Amalinda Lodge which is built on the side of a granite outcrop, with views out across Matobo Hills. Each morning and evening I would take a walk along a forested path that lead to the top of a nearby “gomo”, with 360-degree views across the Matobo Hills and magical light. A beautiful way to start or end any day. The rest of my days were 昀椀lled exploring the Matobo National Park, and one morning I went with a guide from the lodge. The guide’s knowledge of the area gave me so much more insight into the natural surroundings, including the birds, trees, wildlife, and rock formations as well as historical information about the cave paintings, the lives of the bushmen, the dating of the paintings and their signi昀椀cance. As my guide said when we were at the White Rhino Cave Paintings site, “The more you look, the more you see.” And the same applied while we were driving through the park – we picked up the distinctive spoor of rhino and were very fortunate to sight a mother and baby white rhino. I departed Matobo thinking of all the other sites I’d still like to explore there, Exploring some of Zimbabwe’s E Article and Images | Sara Gardiner Hidden Gems
www.nzira.co.zw Issue 19 17 including Nanke Cave, though I soon became absorbed in the stunning landscapes that lay ahead of me. Passing by Masvingo, Great Zimbabwe and Lake Muturikwi, I wished that I had more time to explore those hidden gems too, but I was determined to get to my next stop, Save Valley. SAVE VALLEY – A LAND OF GRANITE ROCKS AND BAOBABS Save Valley Conservancy, named for the river that runs through it, is an expansive wilderness area offering “Big 5” game viewing. There are various places to stay in Save, including Sango Wildlife Lodge and the new Tented Expeditions camp. I stayed with friends on Chishakwe, and this allowed me to connect with the researchers working with the African Wildlife Conservation Fund (AWFC) and to explore both the Chishakwe and neighbouring Sango areas. Accompanying the AWFC researchers on their morning activities, I observed the behaviours of two different African wild dog packs at their denning sites. Save Valley is one of the best places in the world to see this remarkable species, also referred to as the painted dog because of its incredible markings. I felt very privileged to see both the adults and pups up close. While staying in Chishakwe, I also visited the “Big Tree” (a very large iconic baobab tree) and a couple of the scenic dams (great for 昀椀shing and bird watching). Sunrises were spent at Moon Rock, a granite outcrop that provides uninterrupted 360-degree views, sunsets were enjoyed in the dry sandy riverbed of the Mzaise river, which makes for an epic sandpit, and nights were whiled away talking stories with friends around the camp昀椀re. Not wanting the road trip from Save Valley to end, I took the route out via Birchenough and Mutare to Harare. This allowed me to see the impressive Birchenough Bridge, that crosses the Save River, to drive through the gorgeous scenery of the Eastern Highlands, and to stop in and have tea with a dear friend at Gordon’s on 125 First Street in Mutare, before heading up Christmas Pass and back to the big city. Save Valley is populated with numerous Baobab trees of all different shapes and sizes. Nswatugi Cave – one of the exceptional examples of rock found in Matobo Hills. Stunning view from Moon Rock, looking East across Save Valley. Birchenough Bridge - designed by Ralph Freeman who also designed the Sydney Harbour Bridge.
18 Issue 19 NZiRA Travel Zimbabwe he Matobo National Park is a UNESCO World Heritage site, an area so rich in history and its scenic landscape of grand hills, river valleys, and balancing rocks. The vegetation is thick and offers a wide range of plant species. A park worth visiting that offers so much to its visitor, we were grateful and thrilled to get away from our busy city lives in Bulawayo and for a few days we would spend time in this enchanted park, stepping into a world of history and tranquillity. Hideaways Shashani Matobo Hills Lodge, is located in a private game reserve on the boarder of the Matobo Hills National Park. As you drive through the reserve to the lodge, you cannot ignore the richness of the local 昀氀ora. A wide range of botanic species exists that we could pick out such as the Umpapha (Buffalo Thorn), Umtshekisane (Magic Guarri), Umbumbulu (Red milkwood), and Ameva (Thorn Bush). As we continued our drive through thick green vegetation, I felt so proud to remind my husband that this lavish piece of Zimbabwe is what I am fortunate enough to call my rural home. We 昀椀nally reached our destination, Shashani, built on the edge of a giant dome T overlooking a part of the Matobo and the Shashani Valley which simply has a history we can’t ignore. This area, known to have been the home of the Khoi San People over 2000 years ago, once a battle昀椀eld, now holds a feeling of peace and stillness with no evidence of its past unrest. Its past is shared through the stories by the locals and cave paintings that are merely a walking distance from the lodge. You can only imagine the feeling of living in the environment which the hunters and gatherers lived. There’s so much to experience without even being directed by the knowledgeable Hideaways Shashani Matobo Hills team. The accommodation at the Shashani Lodge blends in with the area, consisting of 10 en-suite rooms stretched out beautifully to give you the view of the valley. The décor all thought through perfectly upholds Hideaways’ drive for sustainability, and Article | Nompumelelo Chitewe Images | Dennis Chitewe Hideaways Shashani Matobo Hiffs: Where the Veil Between Heaven and Ea爀琀h is Thin
www.nzira.co.zw Issue 19 19 in this case through recycled material within the lodge style and interior design. You will not miss the cascading chandelier creatively made of used cans and this is not the only item that stands out, everything seems thought through and brings Shashani to a level I would consider higher than many other establishments. Waking up the next morning in such a serene atmosphere, is the break that you need away from bustling city life. The beauty of the lodge location is that it’s not too long a drive from Bulawayo, a worthwhile drive out and an opportunity to reset, putting your phone and technology away to appreciate nature. The distant chorus of the different birds as the sun rises is priceless, their calls relaxing you physically while stimulating your mind. Matobo is home to proli昀椀c birdlife and a fan favourite; the black eagle. There are baboons calling out at the bottom of the hill, seemingly planning their day as well, it’s all such a beautiful ecosystem. The staff at the lodge were extremely welcoming and helpful. Headed by John, who tells the story of the Shashani Valley and its mindblowing history. The team served us tirelessly throughout our stay right until our 昀椀nal day. Shashani Matobo Hills and its surroundings are most certainly a bucket list destination! RHINO TRACKING Our stay included a half-day
20 Issue 19 NZiRA Travel Zimbabwe excursion through the Matobo National Park with Black Rhino Safaris. Dave and Norman walked us through what was a storytelling ride giving a new perspective of the park, including rhino tracking, Rhodes grave and ancient cave paintings. The rock art was the highlight of the tour as these exposed the spirituality of this area. Matobo National Park is rich in the history of the Matabele, British explorers and pioneers, and animal life. Did I say the cave painting was the best experience? Not until we drove further into the Matobo National Park which is home to rhino, the area committed to the conservation and protection of the species. Our walk began with a few housekeeping rules to manage the adrenaline in us, however, we were truly in safe and professional hands of the Black Rhino professional guides. After a 300m walk, we saw shapes similar to boulders in the middle of the open plain. Of course, we’d been warned by the rangers in our presence which prepared us well for the sight we saw. This was not a boulder, but a good close-up view of 6 rhinos resting. They seemed unbothered by us, and this allowed us to photograph this moment. This experience is for the fainthearted as well. You do not need to be a pro to get so close to these beasts. It just takes a great team of guides and rangers which the Matopos is home to. Our trip was incredible, the rich and varied history dating back thousands of years. Most of the stories we didn’t get the chance to be told, as just the telling about the cave paintings was a whole wealth of information that one wouldn’t want to miss out on any detail. The guides shared the stories with such passion and what I love is that even for them the Matopos is a journey through time. It takes experience and interest on their part to be able to walk each guest through the richness of the Matobo. I would highly recommend taking a break from your schedule and experiencing the magic of Hideaways Shashani Matobo Hills and Matopas National Park, where the veil between heaven and earth is thin.
Built atop a granite kopjie (hill), Shashani Matobo Hills has the honour of gazing out over this remarkable Zimbabwean landscape. [email protected] +27 21 671 7729www.hideawaysafrica.com
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www.nzira.co.zw Issue 19 23 Wild at Hea爀琀, Free in Spirit V isiting Gonarezhou is like taking a step into the unknown, it gives you a taste of the raw Zimbabwean bush with diverse scenery, from the famous Chilojo cliffs to the winding Save river; from crocodileridden sandbanks to waterholes with an exorbitant number of animals. Every scene is a sensory experience, 昀椀lled with 昀氀ushed fauna, stimulating sunsets, magni昀椀cent mountains, and raging rapids. Gonarezhou provides an opportunity for you to adventure and relax under African skies through a range of camping and lodge facilities, an enjoyable experience for both the happy camper and the metropolitan. THE CHIPINDA POOLS CAMPSITES During our stay, we camped at the Chipinda pools basic camp which overlooked the lazy Rundi river. At this campsite you are provided with a wide space to set up your tent, running water, and clean bathrooms that are equipped with solar geysers, a table on the riverbank and kitchen surface, and a braai area. The campsite was clean and is swept daily. The birdlife at camp was spectacular: each morning, we awoke to a choir of calls from the treetops and we spotted hundreds of species in the few days that we were there. Sundowners were by the river and hearing the trumpeting of elephants in the distance was magni昀椀cent. There were ancient trees on the riverbank that stooped over swallows darting through the waving grass, while the hippos honked at each other on a nearby sandbank. There was so much activity in camp daily, a tea time a visit from a group of nyalas was always assured, and during the night the elephants would graze on a fallen-down fever tree just metres from where we slept. Apart from the campsite, there are tented camps that allow you to experience the bush in luxury. The tented camps are comfortable, furnished lodges that overlook an open part of the Rundi river that almost always has interesting wildlife ambling through. These affordable camps have a double bed each, with the option of stretcher beds for the kids, a verandah, an equipped kitchen, a renovated bathroom, and are fenced for your safety. If you consider yourself to be a sophisticate: these camps are perfect for you. There is no longer an excuse for you to avoid the Zimbabwean bush anymore! MY ADVENTURE There are so many exciting stories of encounters with the animals from our short stay in this beautiful national park. On our 昀椀rst day, as I was walking out of the bathroom after a hot shower, I startled a pair of impalas, who were inquisitively poking their heads through the door! Later on, my mum and I went to photograph an elephant grazing on a fever tree by the tented Article and Images | Lucy Baker Gonorezhou
24 Issue 19 NZiRA Travel Zimbabwe camps, I decided to risk getting closer to the gracious giant for a better shot when I heard the warning call from another elephant behind me! I calmly gave the pair some space and they went about their business, having their lunch. As we walked back to the camp, we found a beautiful pool embellished with a carpet of delicate white 昀氀owers under the overhanging branches- a lovely scene for a romantic getaway. We visited the broken bridge which made for a beautiful photographic destination. On the road to the bridge, we drove through the river where hippos poked their noses above the water, spraying water at one another. Stalks gracefully skimmed the water by the rock pools for a snack and crocodiles languidly sunned their textured hides in the sun. At the broken bridge, the scenery was a vibrant mix of the natural and architectural beauty of Gonerezhou. An array of prints were left in the sand: from lions and eland to delicate jacanas and jackals, all coming for a drink at the river, which, at that time of year, lazily slithered over the glittering beach. The skies in the area were dramatic and surreal: a piece of art in itself, an ever-changing heavenly display. THE FAMOUS CHILOJO CLIFFS The journey to these colossal cliffs was worth it. On the way, we went through riverbeds, drove under shady tree-top acacias that made a perfect resting spot for elephants, under a ceiling of green, sunlight trickling through the leaves. The picnic spots under the cliffs are harmonious: we sat on camp chairs just soaking in our surroundings. The Chilojo cliffs tickled the sky and had layered bright colours where they had been eroded. A single island cliff had separated from the mother cliff and stood monumentally, proudly in the African sun. The beach next to the river was perfect for photographs and interesting rocks and pieces of dried wood littered its surface. In the distance I could see crocodiles in the river, lazily swimming in the blazing heat. We later drove up to the top of the cliffs, where you could see for hundreds and hundreds of kilometres. It felt like 昀氀ying high up in the air, but we made sure to keep away from the edge! The savannah faded and blued towards the horizon, combinations of forests, plains, and winding rivers shone in the sun. Our visit to the Chilojo Cliffs had lasted much longer than anticipated, it was now dark and a hair-raising experience driving back in the nighttime. We did have an adventure, we saw a black rhino up close when it attempted to charge the car! The combination of us rushing and not being as observant of our surroundings startled the poor animal but it was a story I will tell in the future. The sky was brightly lit up with a full, blood moon and a galaxy of stars that can never be truly experienced living in a city stretched out above us. I would not recommend night driving unless you are a professional guide or in the presence of one. TALKING ABOUT THE ENVIRONMENT It is important to give our children these encounters with endangered animals and promote conversations on conservation. Through this, we can hope that their children will be able to see them in the wild. The wildlife of Zimbabwe is a part of our heritage and history and has moulded the Zimbabwean culture into what it is today. It will be a tragedy if we raise a generation that has the choice to appreciate the beauty of Africa, but does not. Thousands of people would do anything to see a black rhino or an African elephant up close and I am now so grateful to have had such an adventure at Gonerezhou National Park.
www.nzira.co.zw Issue 19 25 Education Planning International Pension Planning Lump Sum Investment Structured Products Retirement Saving Property Investments Our Services deVere Zimbabwe (Pvt) Limited is part of one of the world’s leading independent financial advisory organisations, with more than $10bn under advice from over 80,000 clients in 100 countries. Independent financial advice wherever you are To understand more about what we can oer, or to book a free, no-obligation consultation, get in touch today! deVere Zimbabwe (Pvt) Ltd. is licensed and regulated by the Securities and Exchange Commission of Zimbabwe as a Securities Investment Advisory Company in terms of the Securities and Exchange Act (Chapter 24:25). Registration number: SECZ4528V • 2MS5R0 • V1/0/100322 Tel: +263 86 77 004 105 Email: [email protected] Website: www.devere-zimbabwe.co.zw
26 Issue 19 NZiRA Travel Zimbabwe well-browsed tree-line drifts like a verdant cloud, a couple of metres above the 昀氀oodplains and forest 昀氀oor of this magical valley. Through gaps in the foliage, God's 昀椀ngers strike, creating an oasis of startling clarity, blurring umbra to penumbra to daylight in a few short metres as spotlights would penetrate the expectant darkness of a theatre. The stage is set. The players assemble. Silence falls amongst the audience as the main characters enter the scene, preparing to play their part in another spectacular production. Will it be farce or comedy? Drama or tragedy? We never know. But as we sit, creating a thousand images in our heads, we know one thing: we are 昀椀rmly in the hands of nature, Mana Pools’ producer and director, and every day will bring us a story of unending complexity and deliverance. We always talk about light in photography. It is our pigment, our palette of eternal possibility sat by our side waiting for the deft strokes of our paintbrush to illuminate and create a scene. That is why Mana is such a 昀椀xture on my agenda. Its everchanging potential as one moves from soft-昀椀ltered mopane, to open 昀氀oodplain means that every day, and every minute of every day, offers a new possibility. It is a place to spend time and absorb if one is to get the fullest range of options from it. Of course, it’s not just the light that matters, the main actors play a pretty big part too! It is rare indeed in Africa that on the same day you can be laid on the ground next to wild dogs as they doze a few metres away, or stand within touching distance of a bull elephant as it decides to stand and pull down the higher, juicier branches of an acacia tree. And late in the day? There are few places on earth, let alone Africa, that can compete with a Mana Pools sunset. As the lights dim on another day’s performance, alchemy takes over, as rays convert to molten metal, pouring gold, copper, and bronze onto the surface of the mighty Zambezi, smoothing this rippling waterway to a sheet of burnished metal. On the banks and 昀氀oodplains, the 昀椀nal rays penetrate the trees with ever-increasing softness, backlighting the valley’s most iconic species with an ethereal aura and providing one last option for the day. And as the darkness 昀椀nally takes over, and the night sky surrenders its secret of a million distant suns, you can 昀椀nally relax, recharge… and wonder what nature’s writers will deliver for you the next day. Named after the Shona word for the number “four”, Mana Pools was so titled after the same number of permanent water sources that remain, to varying levels, viable throughout the year within this nearly 7,000 sq km park. Home to crocs and cat昀椀sh, these essential oases provide liquid sustenance for many of the park's mammalian residents, from wild dogs to elephants, lion to eland, all of whom will 昀椀nd either the chance to slake their thirst or ambush an unwary target a strong reason to visit. But Mana is not just about the eponymous pools. Indeed, there are two other hugely signi昀椀cant life-giving water areas within the boundaries of the park. The 昀椀rst, of course, is the incredible Zambezi river; an aquatic ribbon of African legend, this fourth longest river on the continent tumbles its way over Victoria Falls en route to a rendezvous with the Indian Ocean. Serving as a park, and national boundary along the entire length of the protected area, this stretch plays home to some of the largest crocodiles, and seemingly cantankerous hippos, anywhere in Southern Africa, and if you’re so inclined, then an adrenaline-昀椀lled canoe trip from one of the many excellent camps (my personal favourites are Little Vundu and Vundu, both run by Bushlife Safaris) can be a 昀椀ne way to spend an afternoon. Further inland, just a handful of kilometres from the sharp-rising, rugged Zambezi A Mana from Heaven Article & Images | Andy Skillen
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28 Issue 19 NZiRA Travel Zimbabwe escarpment, sits the Chitake Spring. With the geology providing a dramatic backdrop, this is about as wild as it can get as the spring serves as a perennial water source for the area, sucking in large herds of elephant and buffalo, the latter often attended by some of the many lions that reside in the area. Over the years, Mana’s reputation has continued to grow for spectacular wildlife sightings, many of which are conducted on foot under the watchful eye of an expert (and armed) guide. Indeed, stay at one of the established camps in the park and you will be rewarded with some thrillingly close and personal encounters with some of the continent’s most iconic species. However, as wonderful as all the wildlife that resides in this riverine Eden is, there is no doubt that the park has truly gained an edge for the chance to spend time with two enigmatic species, namely elephants and wild dogs. Let’s face it, everyone loves the African Wild Dog. This beautifully gangly canine is often top of the wish-list for most wildlife photographers, and indeed those just keen on observation, every time they enter they embark upon safari. And if the word "leopard" usually gets the hairs standing on the back of the neck when that comes over the radio, or, sometimes, is blurted out loud by an over-excited guide, then the phrase "pack of wild dogs" can send the safari-goer into virtual apoplexy. Suddenly, it's all about a high-speed relocation, a frantic 昀椀ddling of the camera, and a 昀氀eeting chance to record these loping predators before they spirit themselves away on a hunt. Unless of course, you’re here, in Mana Pools. Why? Simply because it is one of the best places in Africa that you can head for to capture these spectacular predators on a memory card and my personal "go-to" place every time a commission or article is requiring me to record the interaction between these super-special predators. It was, after all, the location chosen by the BBC for its recent Dynasties series to follow the antics of Tait. Here, more than anywhere else, can you get the chance to record the full wild dog life-cycle (painted wolves, cape hunting dogs…..take your pick!). For elephants, then, perhaps, there is no more spectacular setting than that offered by Mana. It might not have the volcanic backdrop of an Amboseli, or the wideopen plains and enormous sky so (over!) rated by many photographers, and nor will it present the size of herds that you could encounter in a Tarangire, Tsavo, or Zakouma. But what Mana does give is a 昀椀ltered light like no other on the continent. Effortlessly ambling their way through woodland and clearing, Mana’s pachyderms seem almost to appreciate their surroundings as a human would that had relocated to a new house with a bigger garden. The riverfront provides a tremendous opportunity for viewing as these giants (and Mana truly hosts some spectacularly large specimens) as they graze amongst sausage trees and move gently to and from Zambia on the other side of the Zambezi. To see one of the park's tuskers wading towards you with the escarpment of the Lower Zambezi National Park, and setting sun, as a backdrop is a memory that etches itself into your very soul. Some of Mana’s elephants are also famous for their behaviour of standing on their rear legs and reaching into the higher branches for a more rewarding dining experience and once you’ve witnessed this from a few metres away, you will simply never forget it. If you’ve never been to Mana… get it on your wish list and help perpetuate this wildlife haven for generations to come. Andy Skillen is a globally published, award-winning wildlife photographer and videographer with a passion for conservation. In addition to commission work, books, tours, a爀琀icles, limited editions for galleries, and a昀琀er-dinner speaking, he is also an active ambassador for the Bushlife Conservancy in Zimbabwe. To 昀椀nd out more about Andy, check out www.faunavista.com ; Facebook: andyskillenphotography; Instagram: @andyskillenphoto
www.nzira.co.zw Issue 19 29 omen’s Wilderness retreats was founded by Robyn Philp and Tyler Kennaird who are passionate about bringing women together to reconnect with themselves and other women, rediscover their love for life and themselves as well as release anything that is no longer serving them. Being on A Women’s Wilderness Retreat is an opportunity to be free of your usual responsibilities and distractions, able to view your life from a fresh perspective. “A circle of women may be the most powerful force known to humanity.” Women’s circles—intimate gatherings where women discuss goals, concerns, stories, and advice— have probably been around since prehistory. And Women’s Wilderness Retreats is reintroducing this tradition into our modern lives. So far, the effects have been profound, which is what leads women to come back again and again. As women, it is a natural instinct to put the needs of others before our own as we are innately nurturers and sel昀氀ess beings. This is natural and serves a purpose when we are balanced. However, when we are off balance and giving from an empty cup this does not serve anyone, least of all ourselves. Women believe that putting the self 昀椀rst is a sel昀氀ess act. Stepping back into our feminine power, we allow ourselves to refuel our energy centres and bring harmony and balance back into our lives. Women’s wilderness retreats aim to bring you to a place where you can give from an over昀氀owing energetic cup. Taking responsibility for yourself helps to realign with your soul purpose and move through life with ease and grace. Women’s Wilderness Retreats help you to reignite your sense of freedom and passion for life. WHAT IS A RETREAT? A retreat, although often highly enjoyable, is also not the same as a holiday or workshop. A retreat situation is a place where the boundaries are de昀椀ned speci昀椀cally to create a real opportunity to step outside familiar patterns and explore different ways of being. Any retreat is a structure we give ourselves for a set period so that we can be in touch with who we are and clarify what we truly value. The boundaries set, provide an essential structure for the retreat to support Retreats W Women’s Wilderness Article and Images Tyler Kennaird
30 Issue 19 NZiRA Travel Zimbabwe meditation, re昀氀ection, community living, and other restorative practices which make a retreat challenging as well as a hugely rewarding experience. On this retreat, women come together for a time to share what is most valuable in life and to support one another as women. This sense of connection comes from engaging in communal activities such as group discussions, eating together, sharing living space and helping each other when needed. Many lasting friendships have begun on Women’s Wilderness Retreats. Each retreat has a particular theme and with its own programme, providing a structure with time for meditation, discussion and talks. There is also free time scheduled to go for a walk, read a book, or do whatever you need to do to unwind. Women are asked to come, being aware of and willing to support the conditions of these retreats. In the context of a place of peace, quiet and natural beauty, you can experience a deeper sense of yourself and the world, through meditation, re昀氀ection, and real communication with like-minded people. The gathering of women is done through retreats in Far and Wide and Aberfoyle, as well as through local workshops in Harare. The women that attend are of different ages, backgrounds, and paths of life which makes for an inclusive, uplifting and safe space for all. The Immersive Women’s Wilderness retreats will leave you feeling lighter, more balanced, and invigorated in just four days! Designed speci昀椀cally for women, the retreats help you rediscover and reconnect with your authentic self. They are set in the beautiful Eastern Highlands of Zimbabwe, and each programme is built with nature at the core. They believe that immersing ourselves in the beauty of the wild is a transformative experience, heightened by the gathering of women. These weekend retreats are light-hearted and 昀椀lled with joy and aim to bring each attendee into a state of balance through: Cleansing Waterfall Swims Mindfulness Processions Sacred Fire Ceremonies Ecstatic Dance Breathwork Meditation Hiking Yoga WHAT TO EXPECT Day One Day one is all about releasing all that no longer serves us and unblocking our energy centres; creating energetic 昀氀ow and raising our vibration. This is achieved through
www.nzira.co.zw Issue 19 31 hiking through forests (grounding us and giving us mental clarity), a cleansing and rejuvenating waterfall swim, realigning yoga, a sacred sharing circle, written processes, and an evening 昀椀re ceremony. On day one, we learn the art of letting go, and how to forgive and heal past energetic wounds. We approach these processes with love and compassion and most importantly learn how to nurture and love ourselves. Day Two Day two is all about continuing to raise and expand our vibration, aligning with the ‘new’ that we would like to ‘call in’ to our lives. We open and connect to our hearts as well as connect to the frequency of pure joy and bliss. This is achieved through: presentations that help you to shift the perceptions you have held onto that might have been keeping you stuck, creative activities (which are one of the surest ways to connect to your divine wisdom), a heart-opening cacao ceremony, and ecstatic dance where you release control and align with pure joy! On day two we step into our true authentic power and embrace the divine feminine, we learn to hold space for ourselves and we learn tools that you can carry forward into your life to anchor in the new vibration. ABOUT OUR WORKSHOPS ‘Women’s Wilderness Retreats’ Workshops are a two-day gathering in Harare. We spend the weekend exploring our inner light as we release the old and create the new. Each workshop embodies a different theme and we host a range of speakers to give you an in-depth, immersive two days. You can expect to leave with a deeper feeling of authenticity, a stronger sense of self, and feelings of empowerment as you move forward into your future. The weekend is truly uplifting with a great connection to self and others. You will explore breath work, movement through yoga, meditation and of course lifechanging tools to take home with you. The workshop allows for you to commit to self-development and growth while retreating home every night to process the day’s work Robyn and Tyler work to create weekends that celebrate women, our uniqueness, our journeys, the power and light we hold within ourselves, and the incredible, healing power of coming together. TESTIMONIAL “I loved the calm, gentle nature of the retreat. From the gently challenging yoga, the 昀椀reside soul searching to the cleansing waterfall ceremony, I felt uplifted, loved, and at one with my place in the universe. The breathtaking natural beauty of the Eastern Highlands adds a whole new level of magic. Thank you Ty and Robs, your love and passion for life shone through in every aspect of the retreat and we all felt connected in a common sense of acceptance and sisterhood. I returned home refreshed, rejuvenated, and in love with my life. Wow, I could do one every month.” Website: www.wwretreats.com Facebook: Women’s Wilderness Retreats Instagram: womenswildernessretreats
32 Issue 19 NZiRA Travel Zimbabwe Annabel Hughes Aston is an Awardwinning chef, organic gardener, forager, and writer living in Zambia who shares her culinary journey with The Nzira Travel Magazine. Annabel is an advocate for hyperlocal, plant-forward, sustainable dining. She has spent the past nine years, since moving to Livingstone, developing an organic garden and experimenting with, and fusing, wild and indigenous ingredients with the produce she grows. African Bush Gourmet Article and Images | Annabel Hughes Aston and is the place where lessons are taught, where Wisdom abides; where we learn lessons about life and death from the seed broken open in the darkness, dying in order to come to life in a different form, and from the compost which teaches us that decay is needed for life’s richness. The land is the place where we are healed when no words can comfort or explain. It is the place where we are taught about and 昀椀nd community; where everything is connected to everything else, and nothing exists independently; the place where everything feeds on and depends on the other.” -- I borrowed this quote from a Dominican Sister in New York, to illustrate a concept document I drafted in 2009 when I lived in a small hamlet in Virginia in the United States. I had envisioned turning forty-three acres of unused land beyond my house, L 32 Issue 19 NZiRA Travel Zimbabwe
www.nzira.co.zw Issue 19 33 beneath the Blue Ridge Mountains, into a healing retreat and organic garden for those “in need of peace, re昀氀ection, and nourishment”. It was an ambitious vision, one which I thought was my life’s calling. Today that sanctuary is built and operational. My concept document turned into a rural retreat for wounded veterans, only it did so without me. A year into the project, the investor I had secured to help manifest my vision took it away from me, and with it, he took my connection to the place I had bought my 昀椀rst house, in an adopted country, where I believed I belonged. I lost everything. What wasn’t taken away from me was my reverence for the natural world. Nor my love for growing things and feeding people. When I decided to return to Africa, the continent that grew me, I pared myself down to nothing before the move. All my expectations were dissolved and I sold or gave away my remaining belongings. I never wished to bear such weight again. On the outside or the inside. The empty, white landscape I ended up in, Botswana’s Kalahari Desert, re昀氀ected that nothingness. I had travelled there to sate the aspiring naturalist in me, and in particular to learn about wild food from the San Bushmen. But a tragedy in my family cut short my time in the desert, and I moved to a farm in Zambia’s Zambezi Valley, upriver from Victoria Falls in Livingstone. There, I gave up running from my aloneness and fell in love. When I moved in with my partner Chris nine years ago, we committed to embracing a way of living fused in the “principle of enoughness”, a phrase coined by Mahatma Gandhi and a norm for indigenous people like the San Bushmen. As it was, we had each been pushed towards living “suf昀椀ciently”. The preceding years had been tough for both of us, on many levels. While I had lost everything in America, Chris had lost his farm in Zimbabwe, followed by his partner, who succumbed to motor neuron disease not long after they took a massive loan to buy a new farm in Livingstone in Zambia. There is nothing like scarcity to make you forage deep into your creative resources. In my kitchen in Virginia, I would make wild pesto out of garlic mustard, a ubiquitous invasive weed that surrounded my boundary. I would make jam out of wineberries, harvested from vines scrambling up and down the sides of the road running past my house. Here, we are forever improvising or “making a plan”—a truism common throughout southern Africa—be it renovating our house using bricks made on the farm, or designing kitchen tables and shelves, window and door frames, bedsteads and garden sheds in our farm workshop. We recycle where we can, and we 昀椀x what is broken. We eat out of the garden and we eat wild edibles foraged in the bush around our house; we buy indigenous food from neighbouring villages and support our local food producers as much as we are able. We do our best not to be wasteful.
34 Issue 19 NZiRA Travel Zimbabwe When I 昀椀rst learned from our Zambian housekeeper—who I trained as a chef and who later joined me in co-founding The Elephant Café— that the nuts of the mongongo tree in the centre of our house were edible, so began my exploration into this country’s diverse array of wild ingredients. I began to experiment with, and blog about, the wild food we found in our surrounding woodlands. Called SavannaBel – Bush Gourmet, I wrote about what we foraged through the seasons and how we used each ingredient. I discovered, among others, the fruits of muchingachinga (northern dwaba berry), nsumo (false wild medlar), and mungomba (wild sourplum). In midsummer, when it was pouring with rain, we uncovered chinika and kapuipui wild mushrooms from beneath the leaf litter on the forest 昀氀oor; in late winter, when the bush appeared almost dead it was so dry, we collected mongongo nuts and mubuyu (baobab). I was told by the Zambians with whom I worked that bush fruits were mostly eaten raw … by children on the way to school; by cattle or goat herders; by impoverished families upping the nutritional value of a limited diet. But as a chef and a forager, each time I tried something new from the wild, I was blown away by all the inimitable 昀氀avours. I intuited how well these bush fruits would translate into jams and jellies; how the wild nuts like mongongo and mobula would enhance my baked goods, desserts, and salads. I sensed that the sourness of mubuyu and musika (tamarind) was a perfect substitute for unavailable ingredients like sumac, and as soon as I 昀椀rst smelt chinunkanunka wild basil after it 昀氀owered in the rains, I knew I could use it as a ‘hardy’ herb. My blog led me down many paths— to commissions, consulting jobs, and cooking classes, but the most thrilling of them all was to co-founding The Elephant Café in 2016. Within four months of opening, we won Zambia’s Best New Restaurant; within seven months we were voted Boutique Restaurant of the Year (Africa and the Middle East) by the Luxury Travel Guide Awards. It was a heady, exhilarating time that illustrated to me the potential of this hyperlocal bush gourmet cuisine I had dreamt up in the shadow of a massive wild mongongo tree. Since those early days, I now only use Zambia’s heritage grains and beans, as well as many other traditional ingredients bought from village gardens. A good example of my collaboration with neighbouring villagers is how I use the calyxes of sindambi (wild hibiscus) while they eat the leaves. Until now the only value in the calyxes was to dry them for adding to relish while saving the seeds. I purchase them fresh and turn them into deep crimson ‘昀氀owers’ for garnishes and drinks, or otherwise process the calyxes into syrup, cordial, and jelly. We purchase the sindambi from neighbouring growers and then, after removing the calyxes, return the seeds for planting the following season. I have set up a small women’s collective, collaborating with a single mother who works here on the farm. She organises the procurement of all these ingredients from the village and the market, as well as foraging teams for the wild ingredients, for my growing food business. Each element not only enriches our neighbouring community but also adds value to our woodlands. I hope over time these positives will also enhance the biodiversity in this wild environment in which we are so privileged to live. To me, there is an obvious democracy in food: it is a social and cultural leveller; it is an icebreaker among strangers; it is a uni昀椀er among disparate groups. It is what provides me with the best part of what I do. Food allows me to collaborate with Zambia: its native people, its native plants, its terroir. I am learning daily from the people with whom I collaborate, while I am teaching them how to reimagine their indigenous and wild ingredients into contemporary dishes and products that showcase the very best of this diverse and unique country.
www.nzira.co.zw Issue 19 35 LEMON & LAVENDER CREAM PIE WITH SINDAMBI Recipe and Images Annabel Hughes Aston & SavannaBel – Bush Gourmet, 2022 Ingredients: Sindambi Coulis (Roselle) • 500g/1.2 pounds sindambi calyxes, rinsed thoroughly with seedpods removed • 300 grams/10 ounces granulated sugar • 2 cups water Filling • 2 cups mabisi/ke昀椀r/lacto • 2 pots (230 grams each) plain cream cheese, about 2 cups • 125 grams/ 1/2 cup caster sugar • 10 grams/ 1 sachet gelatin • 1/4 cup hot water • 1 large lemon, juice + zest • 3 teaspoons lavender 昀氀owers (save 1 teaspoon for garnish) Pie Crust • 2 cups pecans, roasted • 1/2 cup coconut chips, roasted • 1 cup dates, pitted and roughly chopped • Salt to taste • 1/2 teaspoon coconut oil Candied Sindambi Calyxes • 10 sindambi calyxes (make extra in case they break) • 1 cup granulated sugar • 3 cups water Mefiod: SINDAMBI COULIS 1. Rinse and tear up the sindambi calyxes and mix together with the granulated sugar in a large heavy-based saucepan. Pour over the water, cover, and bring to the boil. 2. Turn down the heat and simmer the fruit mixture, about 15 minutes. Remove the lid and continue to simmer to reduce the liquid, about 15 minutes (this stage will depend on how thick you want your coulis.) 3. Remove from the heat, cool uncovered, about 30 minutes. 4. Transfer the cooled sindambi mixture to a blender, and pulse until smooth. *If you want a coulis that isn’t too thick, I recommend either reducing the mixture in less time (see above), or adding water to the mixture in the blender until you reach a pouring consistency.* Set aside. Yield: 8-12 servings, depending on the po爀琀ion-size. LEMON AND LAVENDER FILLING 1. Sprinkle the gelatin granules into hot water (do not use boiling water), stirring until the mixture turns from cloudy to clear. Then stir in the lemon juice. 2. Whisk the cream cheese together with the mabisi/ke昀椀r in a medium bowl. The consistency should be like thick cream. 3. Whisk the lemon zest and 2 teaspoons of lavender 昀氀owers into the creamy mixture. Then whisk in the lemon-laced gelatin 1 tablespoon at a time. Be careful not to add it too quickly to avoid the mixture curdling. 4. Refrigerate the lemon and lavender 昀椀lling to begin the setting process while you make the pie crust in the next step. PIE CRUST 1. Preheat the oven to 180 degrees Celsius, and grease a pie dish with coconut oil. 2. Combine all the ingredients in a blender and whizz together until they have turned into 昀椀ne crumbs. 3. Transfer the mixture into a pie dish, spreading it out to cover the bottom evenly. Use the back of a wooden spoon to compact the mixture, and roast in the oven until golden brown, about 8-10 minutes. Cool slightly, and then transfer to the freezer to set further while you candy the sindambi 昀氀owers. CANDIED SINDAMBI FLOWERS 1. Carefully remove the seedpods from the sindambi, doing your best not to damage the calyx. 2. In a small, deep saucepan bring the water and sugar to the boil, stirring to ensure the sugar melts completely. 3. Carefully add the sindambi calyxes, making sure they are completely covered. 4. Reduce the heat and simmer, about 15 minutes. Stir occasionally, turning over the calyxes but being careful not to break them. 5. When the calyxes turn translucent, remove from the heat. Set aside to cool and dry out. ASSEMBLING THE LEMON & LAVENDER CREAM PIE 1. Remove the crust from the freezer, and the lemon and lavender 昀椀lling from the refrigerator. 2. Carefully pour the thickened 昀椀lling into the pie crust and return to the refrigerator to continue the setting process. 3. When the cream pie has set, about two hours, garnish it with the candied sindambi calyxes, a lavender sprig, and the remaining teaspoon of lavender 昀氀owers. Return to the refrigerator until ready to serve. 4. Serve a slice of the Lemon & Lavender Cream Pie with a dollop of the sindambi coulis on the side.
36 Issue 19 NZiRA Travel Zimbabwe hree times a year, our car was loaded up with bags, gear, and barefoot children as we set off towards the dusty roads and off-beaten tracks in the Zimbabwe National Parks. During this time, weeks were spent adventuring in our beautiful lands, our days started at sunrise with condensed milk, tea, and ginger biscuits; and ended tired, sunburnt, and dusty, 昀氀opping into battered canvas tents after an evening of camp昀椀re conversations. This was the childhood I had the privilege to experience. Seesu Gin is my attempt to bottle the thousands of personal memories spent in all our wild places. It is a celebration of what Zimbabwe has to offer, as a destination and a home to all of us. The name “Seesu” is derived from the Finnish word ‘Sisu’ which means “extraordinary determination, courage, and resoluteness in the face of extreme adversity”. It was chosen because I believe it best describes the character and attitude of Zimbabweans everywhere. It is these qualities that inspired the brand’s creation. Seesu Gin is a craft gin created and manufactured in Harare by a born and raised Zimbabwean (me!) to celebrate this beautiful country and all its inhabitants. THE INSPIRATION BEHIND THE BRAND Growing up in Zimbabwe during the economic decline of the early 2000s was a unique experience in itself. The daily challenges of sourcing bread, milk, and sugar would have been enough without the eight-hour fuel queues and hyper-in昀氀ation. However, no sooner would bread be off the shelf than you would hear that someone had begun a home bakery; or someone else had started milk deliveries, or if you emailed an order someone could get you a pallet of groceries from South Africa. No matter Zimbabwean Moments In A Bo琀琀le Article and Images Stephanie Astley Viviers T 36 Issue 19 NZiRA Travel Zimbabwe Seesu Gin
www.nzira.co.zw Issue 19 37 the challenge presented: in 昀椀ve minutes 昀氀at there was a solution offered. There was and there is always a plan to be made in Zim! This ceaseless resourceful attitude has become the very essence of the people living here, no mountain is too high, nor river too wide; there is always a way! A quintessential optimism 昀氀ows in the air, something rare and beautiful in the very manner of day-to-day living. It is this tireless resilience, in the face of all odds, that I fell in love with. A way of being that is characteristic of all the people that reside in this place. This is my inspiration for Seesu Gin. PURPOSE OF THE BRAND Zimbabwe is not known globally for its remarkable people or beautiful landscapes. It is foremostly known as a case study for economic collapse with the second-highest ever recorded in昀氀ation rate to date. But it is so much more than that. Seesu was created to provide a product through which we can promote the beauty that Zimbabwe has to offer. Something that can be taken home by travellers to remind them of their adventures here. And something that can be enjoyed by all of us at home or on our travels. A way of celebrating all the struggles that brought us here today and made us who we are. Resilient. Resourceful. Relentless. www.nzira.co.zw Issue 19 37
38 Issue 19 NZiRA Travel Zimbabwe The Wonky Donkey 1. 1.5 shots Seesu Dry Gin 2. 1 shot of Simple Syrup 3. 1 tablespoon Lemon Juice 4. 8 basil leaves 5. 4 Shots Ginger Ale 6. Ice Ingredients Mefiod Combine all ingredients in a cocktail shaker. Shake gently. Strain into a chilled glass. Garnish with a Basil Leaf. Recipe | Seesu Gin
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40 Issue 19 NZiRA Travel Zimbabwe Chizarira Article | Tami Mudzingwa BINGA 4X4 EXPEDITION
www.nzira.co.zw Issue 19 41 T he Chizarira National Park is Zimbabwe’s third largest National Park, and an area considered “remotely wild”. The name Chizarira is from the Batonka word Chijalila meaning ‘great barrier’. Due to its remoteness, there is a sense of tranquility and ruggedness that comes with it. The National Park is best known for its gorges and views of the mighty Zambezi Valley and the upper waters of Lake Kariba; these provide captivating scenes that may be cherished for a lifetime. Numerous natural springs and open plains with lush vegetation provide a haven for several species including all of the big 昀椀ve save one, the rhinoceros which may be found elsewhere in Zimbabwe. Chizarira also hosts rare animals like Roan antelope and common tsessebe that may be hard to 昀椀nd (if at all) in other parks. The National Park is one for adventurers with walking and 4x4 safaris and bird-watching part of its activities. Its incredible 昀氀ora and fauna, and uniqueness make it a must-visit. With this in mind the Zimbabwe National Parks, Sahwira Leisure & Events, Autoworld, the 4x4 Club of Zimbabwe, and the Zimbabwe Hunters Association have put together an expedition to Chizarira which no later than 5 am to ensure arrival in Chizarira before dark. There are limited spots available and booking early will ensure you don’t miss out. includes an excursion to Binga. The expedition includes 4x4 trails, game viewing, proli昀椀c bird watching, and nature walks; this trip will be an unforgettable encounter with the great Zambezi escarpment, of which a 5km stretch is found within Chizarira. The journey to Chizarira will be travelled by road and can be accessed from 3 major cities i.e. Harare, Kwekwe, and Bulawayo. Preparations will be made weeks before the date of departure to ready participants, such as the 4x4 training to be held on the 4th and 11th of March. This will take place at Donnybrook Race Course to familiarise participants with maximising the features of a 4x4 vehicle in navigating rugged terrain. The training is open to paid-up clients only and comes at no additional charge. Preparations will also be made to leave in groups to provide each other assistance along the way. Ideally, departure must be Additional Information i) Bring own 昀椀shing gear ii) No children under twelve. iii) Covid-19 Protocols to be observed. iv) Strictly 4x4 vehicles due to the terrain For all enquiries and bookings please get in touch with us using any of the following details: - Christina Mhuriro | 0772432148 [email protected] Albe爀琀 Ngesi | 0773500373
42 Issue 19 NZiRA Travel Zimbabwe Enhance a Life, Create a Future INSPIRE, AWAKEN, ENHANCE Article and Images | Shanna Rae Groenewald here to begin!? The journey has sure been an adventurous one, one that has often taken me on the road less travelled and has embraced so many hours of travel and many diverse types of people that I have had the privilege to have met. Each with their own story to tell, each journey encompassed lessons learnt, and things taught. It should be told under the camp昀椀re sitting under a canopy of stars…… non withstanding, here we go. My passion, and I believe my purpose in life, has always been in helping people. Originally this stemmed out of my love for sport and coaching and has now 昀氀edged into my “work.” I call it such as I get the amazing opportunity to wake up every day and live my passion, no two days are alike. I ‘d like to share a little bit about this journey. As aforementioned, the original idea and development of this started while I was at university where I founded Sport4Africa. This focused on developing sports at grassroots level, training coaches, collaborating with disabled teams, and working on inclusion of orphanages where we could use sport as a tool of enrichment, all done across 4 Southern African countries. Here grew my passion to nurture, to inspire in whatever little way I could, to awaken a passion in adults or children who did not know their capabilities. To enhance the con昀椀dence and belief in oneself of the positive impact one can make in this world is so many different ways. This leads me to my new passionate project that I embarked on 6 years ago and have never looked back. I have spent these years LIVING, impactful, purposeinspired living and trying to bring development across SADC. EcoQuest was founded on my belief “For “For Tomorrow belongs to the people who prepare for it W today, together. ~ African proverb”
www.nzira.co.zw Issue 19 43 tomorrow belongs to the people who prepare for it today, together. ~ African proverb”. This belief for me means there is a better way to do business within our industry across Southern Africa, one where work can be driven by creativity, empathy, and innovation, and is focused on Inspiring, Awakening and Enhancing the creativity that lies within PEOPLE and what they bring to a business. This has taken me to the far corners of Namibia, with her vast rolling landscapes and colourful array of people, with business owners that believe in change and are forward-thinking to enhance skill development, nurturing upliftment, and focusing on positive working relationships. EcoQuest has taken me to the outskirts of Zambia and beautiful Botswana. But now I am most excited to be back HOME, in my beloved Zimbabwe, and to start making an impact here. African Business needs African Solutions to shift perspectives and reframe our path forward. It is time to re-wire businesses from 昀椀xed, siloed, sluggish hierarchies that produce little….to organic, diverse, agile, clusters of outcome-focused makers and shippers, this within whichever business industry be it, Tourism, Aviation or Education to name but a few. Now, herein lies another exciting dynamic. The power of WOMEN, and the difference we can make to our communities, to business, to our countries! A truly effective organisation is one in which both the organisation and the individual can grow and develop in a healthy environment. My passion lies in contributing to Conservation through Education, utilizing tourism as the open door for a developmental tool with the use of skill upliftment to make maximum impact. With my training courses, workshops, or team building acumens I focus on hands-on learning in a vibrant, sustainable learning environment. My journey over the last few years has been 昀椀lled with experiences equivalent to a canvas of colours and which I believe have equipped me with a solid foundation of knowledge to now help to create and engage in these sectors. I can’t wait to get more!
44 Issue 19 NZiRA Travel Zimbabwe Motor vehicle cover Group Personal Accident cover Property cover Electronic Equipment Theft or fraud cover Fidelity Guarantee Liabilities Cover Moovah Insurance Cover For All Your Valuables DICOMM McCANN 123007
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www.nzira.co.zw Issue 19 47 Brush Strokes ildlife conservation is key in protecting the animals we have and safeguarding them for generations to come. Through Wildlife art, artists show reverence for nature by spreading the message of wildlife conservation, one stroke at a time. One such artist is Tichaona Ncube (TN), captivated by wildlife from a young age, he has taken his love for these animals and through his medium depicts them in various forms of art. We, Nzira Magazine (NM) had the pleasure of catching up with this passionate artist. NM: Where are you from and how does that a昀昀ect and inspire your work? TN: I was born in Tsholotsho, western rural of Bulawayo, Zimbabwe. Growing up in a rural area and close to the Hwange National Park boarder meant that I had exposure to animals and wildlife at an early age. My responsibilities included herding cattle close to the National Park Border, and as the cattle grazed, I would admire the Kudu’s in a short distance from us. This is where I drew my inspiration. NM: When did you sta爀琀 painting? TN: I took up art as a subject in high school, but pursued it as a career in November of 2002. I was introduced to the professional art industry by Sanele Dhlomo & the late Jimmy James Nkomo, artists from Victoria Falls town. NM: How would you describe your style? TN: I think of my works as experiments, fragments of stories I would love to continue telling about myself, my society, my Zimbabwe, and our African heritage-our wildlife. NM: Describe how a爀琀 is impo爀琀ant to society TN: I think, in my opinion, art becomes the means in making known the true identity of the society denoting the trends of the society as well as the life of the society. You'll know better about life in Zimbabwe especially here in Victoria Falls by just looking at the Artwork from artists. Some artworks re昀氀ect the daily life, struggles, victories, and challenges that we face as a society. Do you get what I am saying? It also helps in establishing and emphasizing the value of our society with its treasures. NM: What do you consider to be the best painting you’ve ever done? TN: That's a bit of a dif昀椀cult question. I have loved all of my works and felt a loss upon selling them. But "THE LAST TUSKERS" oil on Canvas and most recently completed "RETALIATION" Lion Portrait Splash work on Canvas, these two have had a thing on me when I look at them. One time I remember it was a struggle to let my works go to the extent that I would keep them for some months before letting them go or selling them. You see the reality is when you create an artwork, a part of you, a part of your personality is parted to the artwork. Funny hey. NM: Do you 昀椀nd that ce爀琀ain paper, paints, or brushes make a big di昀昀erence to how you paint? TN: Medium-wise, I've done a lot of pencil sketches during the past years and fell in love with sketching mediums (pastels, colour pencils precisely "Polychromos", charcoal). Lately, I have discovered the same love for oils and I am still learning diverse approaches, variations, and subjects, especially splash and W Focus on | Tichaona Ncube Wildlife Through
48 Issue 19 NZiRA Travel Zimbabwe landscapes. You see, the size of tools and their shape makes a lot of difference to your work. I love detailed artwork and 昀氀at-angle chisel brushes are my favorite on that task. I Prefer using Winton Oil Colors by Winsor Newton and Daler Rowney Oils as well. These have made a huge difference in my work. NM: What has painting given back to you? TN: Painting and the works of art have brought me peace, though the reward is still not enough, I'm satis昀椀ed with this work. It gives me the freedom to be being my own boss it's quite an interesting experience. It has expanded my social world as I hook up with other artists and art lovers such as you, your media company you see. NM: What are you currently working on? TN: I am currently working on various splash projects until August, though some of them are still blank, my mind is 昀椀xed on them and planning my next move. I'm also working on 昀椀nding more Media people with whom I can be able to market my work and through them i.e. Videographers, Printers, and writers as well you see. Meeting you and having you interested in my story has been a great experience and achievement. I appreciate your gesture and thank you very much for this wonderful opportunity hoping that whoever reads this article would understand and support me and other artists during this trying hour.
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