www.nzira.co.zw 1 Cover Page ISSUE 11 MARCH/APRIL 2019 NZ RA Travel Zimbabwe $7 African Adventuring GONAREZHOU
Zimbabwe International Exhibition Centre P.O. Box Famona, Bulawayo, Zimbabwe Tel: +263 29 2884911 - 6 | Fax: +263 29 2884921 | VOIP: +263-86-77000450 Email: [email protected] | Website: www.zitf.co.zw
4 March/April 2019 he start of the new year and our very 昀椀rst 2019 edition has us navigating old trails to witness different treasures and learning about the new undertakings at the colourful cliffs in the Lowveld. This is in the hope that we can keep you all entertained and travelling around our beautiful country. As the locals are aware, Zimbabwe has something for everyone: like an artist with his pallet, you can pick the place that paints your perfect picture. The orange and pink fused sunsets create a spectacle of light, colours, sky and water that mirrors on Lake Kariba, to the swirling waters of the Zambezi bending and running off the edge, cascading into one of the seven wonders of the natural world in Victoria Falls. Hwange, just a stone’s throw away, holds many of our hearts. From the Editor T Did you know that Nzira means pathway/path/road in Shona? image Shannon Wilson The beautiful area continues to offer game drives galore, windswept hair, afternoon sleeps that go on forever and sunset drinks that are depleted faster than the setting sun. In Mana, we have to share our pleasures with the Ellies who have found ways to get their trunks on the tasty marula treats and Chris Collyer captured the moment for us in this issue. This Nzira issue pulls from just a few of the unique and wonderful places we are so fortunate to have at our back door - please enjoy the pieces of Zimbabwe we have shared, and we hope to see you on the ROAD this year! If you want to be a part of the pathway to the next NZiRA issue? Please get in touch with us on [email protected] Publisher Mike Garden [email protected] +263 (0) 772 209 162 Editor Shannon Wilson [email protected] +263 (0) 782 005 277 Assistant Editor Rufaro Kaviya [email protected] Tel: 024 27827201 Advertising Rudo Nhamoinesu [email protected] Tel: 024 2782720 Design and Layout Tamuka Nyoni [email protected] +263 (0) 775 363 706 Printer Sable Press Unit 21-22 Bluffhill Industrial Park Bluffhill Harare Tel: 024 331 637/8, 331654 +263 (0) 772 525 076 DISCLAIMER Whilst every effort is made to check the content of any article, the directors will not be held responsible for any errors or omissions in such articles. We accept that all articles and photographs sent to us are the sole responsibility of the authors and we do not accept liability for any misrepresentation. Events listed, the dates thereof, and prices are printed using information supplied to us that we are satis昀椀ed is correct at the time of printing. Nzira publication is the exclusive property of Ndeipi (Pvt) Ltd Media Nzira Travel Zimbabwe produces a bi-monthly travel magazine that is aimed at showcasing the beauty of the country and the various outstanding destinations that it has to offer. To subscribe to Nzira please send your details and payment to our Softrite of昀椀ces at 37 Victoria Drive, Newlands, Harare, or contact us on 024 2782720. Your issue will be delivered bi-monthly. Subscription costs are $50 for 6 issues. NZIRA TRAVEL MAGAZINE SUBSCRIPTIONS, DELIVERED TO YOUR DOOR Cover Page NZ RA Travel Zimbabwe Nzira Cover Photo Girafie on the lookout at Matetsi Victoria Falls InfoNzira nziramagazine Nzira
www.nzira.co.zw 5 CONTENTS NZIRA ISSUE 11 MARCH/APRIL 2019 Mana In Motion On the lake with one of Kariba's Captains. Learner Professional Hunters and Guides (LPHG) course at Mokore. Argentinian Prawns and Beef Fillet That we love to eat. Flying with Africa's largest eagle. A trip to Nyanga. A gallery showcasing this lovely spot. A drive through the Savé conservancy in the Isuzu KB300 lx auto. Our travel reading picks for you. Stay in the know of upcoming events. Challenge your mind with a crossword or a Sudoku. The new normal The roads you, our readers, take. Photo Gallery. 16 18 52 28 30 34 43 50 58 60 63 65 66 21 #travellers’tales Captain Chuma's Idyllic Route A Guiding Hand The Little Guys On the Wings of the Martial Eagle Matetsi Victoria Falls Road Trip Save in the Savé Recipes Books for any and all travellers Events Games Bark of the Urban Baboon Gonarezhou 6 New Beginnings in the National Park African Adventuring 12 Making the most of the African days. A Hwange safari adventure at Ivory Lodge. The land of teak and tusks 38
6 March/April 2019 ©Bad Rabbit Studio
www.nzira.co.zw 7 onarezhou, with its iconic Chilojo Cliffs and vast wilderness landscapes, has for long been a forgotten jewel in the crown of Zimbabwe’s National Parks. However, through an innovative conservation partnership, it has been given a new breath of life and is steadily gaining its rightful place as an iconic wilderness and wildlife destination. Between 2007 and 2017, the Park was supported by the Frankfurt Zoological Society (FZS) through a long-term cooperation agreement with the Zimbabwe Parks and Wildlife Management Authority (ZPWMA). During this time, emphasis was placed on ensuring the security of the Park’s wildlife and investing in the infrastructure necessary to support effective management of Gonarezhou. Wildlife populations responded well and the game viewing and overall visitor experience improved dramatically. Then, 2017 ushered in a new era for the Park, with the formation of the Gonarezhou Conservation Trust. The Trust is an equal partnership between ZPWMA and FZS, and is directly responsible for all aspects of the management and development of the Park. This innovative conservation model has exciting implications for the long-term sustainability of the Park and through it, the Trust has been able to establish key partnerships with donors who share the vision of a sustainable future for Gonarezhou. This vision is founded on 昀椀ve core pillars, Gonarezhou’s 昀椀ve Cs: Conservation, Communities, Commercial Development, Connectivity and Corporate Governance These 昀椀ve pillars are inextricably interconnected and underpin the strategy for the Park going forward. A key component of this strategy is enhancing the Park’s tourism potential, a critical component in ensuring the 昀椀nancial sustainability of Gonarezhou in the long term. Until now, the Park’s tourism offering had focused primarily on the self-drive market, with visitors camping in exclusive, undeveloped campsites in remote areas along the Runde and Mwenezi Rivers. Whilst occupancies have been growing year-on-year, the Park is yet to achieve its goals for tourism and capitalise on its potential. This vision for tourism in Gonarezhou is to make tourism work for conservation (and not the other way around), retaining the core values of the Park as an untouched and iconic wilderness area. New Beginnings GONAREZHOU G Article Elsabe van der Westhuizen Images Bad Rabbit Studio, Mike Kock and Sinamatella ©Mike Kock
8 March/April 2019 Other plans for 2019 include the development of 昀椀ve starbeds in the remote central area of the Park. These starbeds (platforms) will allow visitors to sleep safely with only the starry night as their backdrop, making for an unparalleled wilderness experience. These platforms will be placed at some of the lesser known and isolated pans that attract wildlife from miles around during the dry season. Wildlife is still very shy in the area, with very little human contact but a trickling 昀氀ow of visitors has already seen a marked improvement on sightings in the area. Despite the changes in the management of Gonarezhou and the grand vision for tourism, it remains wholly a National Park, not only serving to protect Zimbabwe’s biodiversity but also serving as a recreational area accessible to all Zimbabweans. Whilst our goal is to enhance the 昀椀nancial sustainability of the Park in the long term, the Trust aims to ensure that both the diversity and pricing of its tourism offerings will provide the opportunity for Zimbabweans of all walks of life to visit and celebrate the beauty of their own natural heritage. Each chalet has been 昀椀tted out with quality bedding, towels and fully equipped kitchens, and the entire camp now runs permanently off solar power for both lighting and hot water. In addition to the work on Swimuwini, a new introduction this past year has been the 昀椀rst Mananga Camp at Masasanya Dam. “Mananga” can be roughly translated to “a place far away in the bush”, in the local Shangaan vernacular. The concept is not only to offer a camp built in a style that has the lightest footprints, but one which also celebrates local culture and the communities living adjacent to the Park. The structures are built using reclaimed materials and traditional techniques that are combined with comfortable and quality furnishings and 昀椀ttings to ensure a truly unique and memorable experience. Each camp is built by local community members and artisans, who are then trained and employed as camp attendants, bringing the vision full circle by directly connecting conservation, tourism and communities. Given the success of the 昀椀rst Mananga Camp, the Trust plans to build a further three camps in 2019 (two in the South along the Mwenezi River and one in the North near the Save and Runde Rivers), allowing visitors to easily move from one camp to the next, fully experiencing the diversity of habitats and scenic landscapes the Park has to offer. As a 昀椀rst step towards achieving this vision, all tourism revenue is now retained at a Park-level for direct reinvestment into the conservation of the area. In addition, the Trust has undertaken a full evaluation of the tourism experience in the Park, from reception gates to tourist facilities to roads. This evaluation, along with the general management plan for the Park, is guiding the future for tourism in the Park - and an exciting future it is! The past year has already seen the refurbishment of Swimuwini Camp, in southern Gonarezhou. The camp’s eight chalets have been given a modern face-lift, opening up the kitchen and living areas to fully appreciate the camp’s beautiful setting along the Mwenezi River. For more information, visit www.gonarezhou.org and follow us on facebook at @ gonarezhou.org to keep up to date with happenings and offers in the park. To make a booking to stay in Gonarezhou, please email reservations@ gonarezhou.org or call +263 (0) 779 788 811. ©Bad Rabbit Studio ©Sinamatella
www.nzira.co.zw 9 The colourful cliffs speak for themselves. ©Shannon Wilson ©Shannon Wilson ©Shannon Wilson
10 March/April 2019
www.nzira.co.zw 11 Lake Chivero Game Park Mud Pools One day Training Overnight Training *Including Meals Two nights training Highwire Challenge Horse Rides Rhino Tracking Obstacle Courses Pamper Pole $65 $130 $250 Africa Tours and Safaris 78 The Chase, Mt Pleasant Harare. Cell: 0772636697 | 0732636697 Tell: 04 302023 [email protected] 0716 36136 , 0773546305 [email protected] , 0771 740 641 [email protected], 0712840577 [email protected] FOR CORPORATES Building winning teams with Coach Wesley
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www.nzira.co.zw 13 Botswana for one night in Maun, two nights in Khwai on the eastern side of the Okavango Delta and two nights in the Makgadikgadi region. We wanted to stay at homely, reasonably priced yet comfortable accommodation that would allow us to be independent without having to lug everything we could need with us. We drove from Victoria Falls, through the Kazangula border into Botswana and then through the lovely Chobe National Park to the quaint border post of Ngoma. This tiny border between Botswana and Namibia overlooking the Chobe 昀氀oodplain is dotted with immense baobabs. After the usual formalities we entered Namibia and into the Caprivi Strip. The Strip is a narrow 昀椀nger of Namibian land that extends westward from the main body of Namibia between Angola and Botswana. It runs 450km west to east and is only 32km wide for much of its length. It boasts a large number of conservation areas and national parks, proli昀椀c wildlife and few people. We drove along quiet, straight roads through most of it to reach River Dance Lodge just before Mahango towards the strip’s western end. We were a little road weary when we reached River Dance four hours later but the incredible view from their deck overlooking the Cubango River from high among the treetops and a refreshing dip in the swimming pool soothed any nerves. owards the end of 2018, I lost a friend, far too young. His passing spurred a deep sadness and a lot of re昀氀ection on what life is really about, how fragile it is and how best to make the most of the time we have. For most of 2018, I had complained about wanting to travel more, to spend quality time with my loved ones, to see new things and make new memories. And so, two days after Christmas in 2018 we took to the road for an epic trip. Since it was planned in haste we decided to play tourists in our own back yard, and explore some of the stunning areas close to us. We began and ended in Victoria Falls, as it is where we live. However, it is also a perfect starting point as it is easily accessible and quite the attraction in itself. I decided upon two nights in the Caprivi region of Namibia, then on to African Adventuring T Article and Images Sarah Kerr
14 March/April 2019 River Dance consists of elegant and secluded glass and wood units tucked between the treetops with stunning views from their private decks. They are very reasonably priced and we enjoyed delicious meals, a boat cruise on the river and absolutely exceptional birding. A word of caution: their raised position and railing design don’t make this a good camp for those with children under 昀椀ve years old, however, I recommend this calm oasis for anyone wanting to relax in nature’s beauty. After two nights that passed in the blink of an eye, we hit the road again on our way to the donkey-昀椀lled streets of Maun. We travelled through Bwabwata National Park, (missing out on viewing Popa Falls as it was raining) and found another charming border to Botswana at Mohembo. From here the road was challenging in that it consisted of more potholes than tar until Sehitwa where it improved considerably. We found that a sense of humour and relaxed attitude are just as essential as anything else you pack! We stayed with friends in Maun but for those without this luxury, I recommend Thamalakane River Lodge on the peaceful river’s edge, on the outskirts of town. We stocked up on food and supplies for our intrepid adventure to Khwai the following day and ditched our trusty steed, a red Kia, in favour of our friend’s more rugged ride. The next day we set off for Khwai on the eastern side of the Okavango Delta and one of my favourite places in the world. I loved our progression from tar road to corrugated calcrete to a small sandy track. With the smell of sage bush blowing through the open windows, sunshine and storm clouds circling I was in heaven. We saw a female lion crossing the road and I was completely relaxed by the time we arrived at our destination. The Khwai Villas, an AirBnB property, is the perfect base from which to explore the area with all amenities needed to be self-suf昀椀cient. They consist of two beautifully furnished self-catering Meru style tents set on a raised decking. Underneath is a concrete slab with a table and chairs, a braai area and a container with a freezer and storage space. In short, it is everything you need and nothing you don’t. With no Wi-Fi or distractions, this is the perfect spot for days spent game driving and evenings spent eating, chatting and generally reconnecting with the people you have come with (who hopefully you like). The villas are near the Khwai Village where there are some small shops stocked with basic goods. We had hyena come past us and previous guests have seen elephant, lion, leopard, buffalo, hippo, giraffe, kudu, zebra and more from the deck of the villa We spent happy afternoons game driving in Khwai and in the nearby Moremi Game Reserve, where we were lucky enough to see a leopard and watch a black mamba hunting frogs. There were epic storms, a lot of laughter and some lengthy afternoon naps, it was perfection. We had planned to spend one night at the ever-funky Planet Baobab near Nata, a spot I had stayed at before and loved. It would have provided an opportunity to introduce my partner to their habituated meerkat troop, a truly special experience.
www.nzira.co.zw 15 My wildlife-lover’s heart was sated and after the tour we left for our return to Victoria Falls. I re昀氀ected on the special times we had spent with friends, the new experiences we had and the sights we had seen so close to home. The bene昀椀ts of a trip like this are the freedom to set your own pace, the savings to be had with no 昀氀ights involved and the real connections made along the way. I am striving for more spontaneous experiences like this in 2019 and encourage you to do the same. The details of our trip and some more suggestions are below. However, we arrived in Maun late, after a long morning game drive and opted to bunk down with friends again. After enjoying a leisurely morning in Maun we headed on to Nata Lodge. We kept a relaxed routine and stopped to enjoy the many sights on the way; we paused near Planet Baobab’s iconic giant pink aardvark, stopped to admire goats taking shelter in a bus stop, marvelled at elephant bulls in Nxai Pan National Park and arrived at Nata on a chilly rainspattered afternoon. Although Nata itself offers nothing more than a convenient place to stop for travellers, the nearby Nata Bird Sanctuary is a highlight all year round. The Nata River forms a delta which feeds Sua Pan which is a breeding ground for huge numbers of water birds such as 昀氀amingos and pelicans. Nata Lodge made for an excellent pit stop. Our chalet had a freestanding bath and outdoor shower, comfortable bedding and the on-site restaurant served a steak that melted in my mouth. I booked a guided tour of Nata Bird Sanctuary for the following morning and this was one of the trip’s highlights. I saw eastern clapper lark, huge 昀氀ocks of great white pelican and the pink-backed pelican, Hottentot teal, black-chested snake-eagle, northern black-bellied korhaan, marabou storks and African 昀椀sh eagle among others. We didn’t manage to see any 昀氀amingo as they often move when it is raining, but this in no way dampened my experience. Around the 昀氀ooded pans the surreal landscape of this ancient seabed was dotted with wildebeest and zebra. Victoria Falls. 1 night (5 h 49 min) (2 h 20 min) 539.2 km Caprivi (River Dance Lodge). 2 nights 455.8 km Maun, Thamalakane River Lodge. 1 night 123.7 km Khwai Villa. 2 nights 327.6 km 112.8 km Planet Baobab. 1 night Nata Lodge, 1 Night (4 h 50 min) (1 h 31 min) (6 h 18 min) SUGGESTED 8-NIGHT ITINERARY If you have more time you could: • Add two nights in Victoria Falls (Try 528 | Victoria Falls or Batonka Guest Lodge for locally owned boutique accomodation at a good price) • Add one or two nights in the Okavango Panhandle (Okavango Houseboats or Drotsky’s Cabins) • Add an extra night at Planet Baobab with sleepout in the Makgadikgadi salt pans (seasonal) to enjoy the meerkat experience. • Or add two nights in Kasane and visit Chobe National Park. (Kasane Self-catering) 1. Look out for cattle, goats and dogs on long drives and do not be tempted to speed. 2. Ensure that your vehicle is roadworthy and you have a working spare tyre (a lesson we learnt in Khwai) 3. You cannot bring animal products through Foot and Mouth disease control points in Botswana. 4. Many establishments do not have card facilities, so make sure to have enough cash. 5. Podcasts or audiobooks are a great way to break the monotony of long drives. 6. Khwai is a four-wheel drive site as is Nata Bird Sanctuary. Travel Tips
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www.nzira.co.zw 17 fter a delicious lunch, we ventured on an afternoon game drive from Hippo Valley Camp. We watched a big elephant bull making his way through the river bed then some giant giraffe feeding, a herd of impala wandering, a warthog and a few kudu in the acacia forest - nothing out of the ordinary. The Lowveld heat was becoming bearable and as we continued our drive to the Malilangwe side and the Banyen area we found a herd of 400 to 450 buffalo to the left of us and herds of zebra, wildebeest and impala on the right - like a scene from Beautiful People. Looking just to the right of the mountain of dark horns was a giraffe bull that was looking at something intently. Two cheetah stretched and walked out from the yellow grass and strolled across the plains. We couldn’t believe our luck. And in the next breath, we heard a lion in the tree-line, a big male as we saw when he came out, and he walked through the zebra and impala who were barking at him. Unperturbed, he lay down for a rest right next to us as the golden sun was setting and the impala and zebra turned their heads away and went back to grazing. We moved off this spectacular scene to see some rhino but as we neared them, we heard on the radio that the cheetah were hunting a baby impala. We raced past an elephant bull, but when we arrived the speedy cheetah were already eating their catch with the impala herd nowhere to be seen. While we watched the cheetah, three rhinos were standing under a tree. A big cloud of dust rose and some bellowing sounded out and the bull rhino started to charge at some dagga boys who were coming to the pan for a drink! We had an action-packed day in the bush with the big four, only just missing the leopard. We went and had sundowners at the pan with a lion, a hyena and her pup and the buffalo. The lion 昀椀nished drinking while we had another and he walked no more than 30m away, right past us with his nose in the air on his way to the cheetah kill, we presumed. We left him walking and began making our way home again. What a privilege it is to live in Africa. #travellers’tales A Article and Images Warwick Hattingh Send us your tumultous tales, recovered road trips and unbelievable adventures to [email protected] and you may be featured in our next issues of NZiRA Travel Magazine
18 March/April 2019 houseboat trip on Kariba is a holiday in paradise like no other: waking up to sun kissed waters, listening to the 昀椀sh eagles cry and feeling the weight of your 昀椀rst catch at the tip of your rod. However, as with most holidays, you have to get the admin out the way before you can enjoy this phenomenal experience. These range from sorting your ice, drinks, food, parks and 昀椀shing fees, packing the houseboat and lastly planning a route for your trip. Captain Keferance “Chuma” Siamaburo has been sailing the inland sea of Kariba for 30 years and captained Royal Game for 22! He has watched two elephant bulls 昀椀ght one another, captured many bream and witnessed a lion kill right on the banks of the man-made dam. His knowledge of our beautiful Kariba is as vast as the lake after a good rainy season. We spoke to Captain Chuma on where best to travel so we might have the chance to see what he has seen. Here is his ideal route for the perfect Kariba trip 昀椀lled with 昀椀shing, game viewing and spectacular sunsets all in one. We have kept this route fuel savvy as we are trying to accommodate the horrid shortages Zimbabwe is going through currently. However, if this is not a limitation then by all means make the route longer, elephant point, Tashinga, Bumi – Kariba is your oyster! idyllic route a Captain Chuma’s KARIBA “I have seen so many things all these years everywhere along the lake shoreline” Article Shannon Wilson Images Mickey Wilson and Captain Chuma
www.nzira.co.zw 19 1 2 3 4 All settled in for the night, Chuma and his clients from the Netherlands took the tender boat out for a spot of 昀椀shing and a game cruise. Chuma recalls, “we noticed the impala started running very fast, so we brought the tender boat closer to the shore and that’s when we saw the cheetah chasing them!” After a short and successful chase, the two cheetah devoured their meal seemingly unaware of their audience. You may not be as lucky as these Dutch guests but it’s certainly worth a try! 1. Sanyati West Bay Well known for the many crocodiles that bathe on its hot sand, Palm Bay is an excellent 昀椀shing and game viewing space in Kariba. Chuma notes that he often sees zebra, impala, water buck and elephant in this area. We have seen a crocodile corpse being munched on here by its fellow reptiles! 3. PALM BAY 2. changa Arriving at Changa in the early evening hours, Chuma and Past (chef and deckhand) tried to tie up for the night when they were interrupted by a very friendly herd of elephant. After several tries, the “ellies” moved over just enough for Royal Game to get set up and the clients watched the elephants march on as the clouds turned pink. It is a beautiful location on the lake and one not to be missed on a houseboat trip. 4. Antelope island Antelope is usually a guarantee for excellent 昀椀shing so, if you have failed to catch anywhere else, you should not be leaving this spot empty handed. Not the best area for game, Antelope has baboons and Chuma has seen a small herd of buffalo there before. If you are in a hurry to head home and need to be at the harbour early but still want to enjoy some 昀椀sh snacks for dinner this is where you want to be!
20 March/April 2019 Emergency contraception can be used to reduce the chance of pregnancy after unprotected sex. Sometimes the unplanned happens, and you’re unprotected. Prevent pregnancy use emergency contraception. Speak to your pharmacist, nurse or doctor about emergency contraception - brought to you by PSI Name and Business address of the holder of the certifi cate of registration. Population Services International, South Africa, Block G, 63 Regency Drive, Route 21 Corporate Park, Irene, 0152. Tel.: +27 87 809 0087. Distributed by Pulse Pharmaceuticals, 15 Borgward Road, Msasa, Harare, Zimbabwe. Email: [email protected]. Tel.: +263 242 446126. P020/2018
www.nzira.co.zw 21 Mana in Motion Images Jessica Harris and Chris Collyer ©Chris Collyer Below Cover your catch.
22 March/April 2019 professional photographer chris collyer ©Chris Collyer Photo Gallery Submissions Help us to share Zimbabwe’s story in pictures and send us your submissions to [email protected] and you may be included in our next issue or on our website.
www.nzira.co.zw 23 ©Chris Collyer Above Western view. ©Chris Collyer
24 March/April 2019 ©Jessica Harris Below The Zambezi River mirroring above. Mana lover Jess Harris
www.nzira.co.zw 25 ©Jessica Harris ©Jessica Harris Below The kind of road blocks you actually want. Above Golden sunlight caught by a bending Acacia tree.
WWW.CHIRUNDUSAFARILODGE.COMwww.nzira.co.zw 27 “Let Nature be your teacher.” William Wordsworth
28 March/April 2019 Article Rufaro Kaviya Images Chris Collyer FLYING TERMITES GRASSHOPPERS he consumption of insects, entomophagy, has seen its steady incline in popularity as the trend spreads and grows. Countries north, south, east and west have taken their picks from the 1900 edible varieties of insects (as of April 2012) and the choice gastropods. From the delicacies of escargots from France to the tantalising taste of tarantulas in Cambodia; even our own local traditions including a variety of caterpillars, 昀氀ying termites, ants, crickets and grasshoppers, have proved the possibilities endless as minds become more open. Often confused with the 昀氀ying ant which is just as edible, the 昀氀ying termite is a protein 昀椀lled, rainy season delicacy of Zimbabwe; second only to the caterpillar or mopane worm locally known as madora. Eaten both locally and across our borders, grasshoppers have made a crunch in our lives. You can sometimes buy grasshoppers in speci昀椀c shops down town or if you like, catch them using a wool blanket on a 昀椀eld abundant with grasshoppers and some overripe fruit. Having this tasty treat fresh may mean an early morning and a bit of chasing, but nevertheless worthwhile. Under a light, leave a dish of water overnight in order to collect your ishwa; 1. 2. 3. 4. Remove from the water, adding to a pan with minimal oil and choice spice; Fry them until they are shiny on the outside; Fry in some onion rings for added taste. Said to have a nutty taste, this simple dish is pegged as a healthier, cheaper alternative to our more common meat. In spite of its small size, it is packed with great protein and necessary fat. t That we love to eat Little Treat Yourself (Ishwa) (Mhashu) ©Chris Collyer ©Chris Collyer
TARANTULAS A bit furry for my own tastes, but the creepy crawlies that make a number of people scream has regionally made its mark as part of Cambodia’s culture. Having come into the Cambodian diet during times of famine in the 1970s, tarantulas, and several “exotic” eats, simply remained for their good taste. This 昀氀avour burst is something akin to crab according to those who have tried and bland to others. Pull off the heads which will, in turn, pull out the entrails and rinse your grasshoppers Having caught, killed and selected your tarantulas, singe the hair off with a lighter 1. 1. 2. 2. 3. 3. Soak in a marinade of salt, onion, garlic and brown sugar Soak them in a mixture of sugar, salt, light seasoning and water Remove and fry in light oil until golden and shiny. After soaking well, place them in a saucepan with hot oil and turn on each side for approximately 45 seconds. Treat Yourself Treat Yourself For something out of our own cultural tastes:
30 March/April 2019 On the wings of a Martial Eagle Article Julia Pierini Images BirdLife Zimbabwe he Martial Eagle is the largest eagle in Africa occurring throughout the savanna belt of Africa from southern Sahara to the Cape. Its name is derived from the Latin word `Martialis` meaning `from Mars` - an apt name for such a magni昀椀cent bird considering that Mars was the Roman god of war! The adult Martial Eagle’s plumage has dark brown upperparts to go along with its similarly coloured head and upper chest. The underparts of the body are white streaked with black. The underwing coverts are brown, with pale 昀氀ight feathers, also streaked with black. The female is usually larger and more streaked than the male. The immature bird is paler and has white underparts. It reaches adult plumage and maturity in its seventh year. The Martial Eagle`s preferred habitat is uninhabited stretches of thorn bush and savanna, open plains and semi-desert country. It avoids dense forests, but as the species requires trees for nesting they are generally absent from arid or cleared areas. It is a powerful looking, long-legged eagle with a broad, 昀氀at head and penetrating yellow eyes. It probably occurs more widely than any other eagle in southern Africa, ranging from the driest to the wettest environments and from the 昀氀attest to the most mountainous regions. In spite of this, it is not frequently seen and even in its prime habitats in some national parks, there is no more than one pair of eagles per 150km2. Additionally, it spends much of its time 昀氀ying, often at such a great height, that it is invisible to the naked eye. T
www.nzira.co.zw 31 Although widespread, the Martial Eagle has become increasingly scarce in the more heavily settled parts of its range. The species suffers from direct persecution (shooting and trapping) by farmers, indirect poisoning, drowning in sheer-walled reservoirs, electrocution on power lines, and habitat alteration and degradation. Direct persecution and indirect poisoning are, by far, the most important causes of losses. Poisoning is largely carried out by a few large-scale commercial farmers but is also a problem in small-stock farming communities - a disturbingly large number of birds are killed for real or imagined stock thefts. Reduction in natural prey due to human encroachment on natural habitat may lead to an increase in predation on domestic animals, which may, in turn, lead to increased persecution by farmers. In some areas, birds may be taken for use in traditional medicine, and parts have been found in muthi markets. Some protected areas are also too small to hold a single pair, and the size of territory means that birds nesting in protected areas will generally forage far outside them, making them more vulnerable to persecution. It has to be said that loss of habitat is one of the most important factors causing the extinction of species worldwide. Among the South African eagles, habitat destruction is the result of development for agriculture, housing, mining and similar land-use forms, or in subsistence communities, the clearing of bush to collect 昀椀rewood, to establish small croplands, and for other purposes. Related to habitat loss is the global threat of climate change, the impacts of which could, for instance, include dramatic changes in the habitat and prey base of the eagles. Martial Eagles are listed as Vulnerable (VU) on the IUCN Red List. These powerful and rapacious eagles do most of their hunting from the air and are known for their superior eyesight (3.0 – 3.6 times human acuity). They soar at great height until their prey is in sight, then swoop down to catch their victim using talons. Guineafowl and other game birds are commonly taken, but the range of prey recorded for the species is wide, from small buck and mammals to snakes and leguaans. The preferred prey varies from region to region. For further information on birding hotspots around Zimbabwe check out the Birding Zimbabwe tab on www.birdlifezimbabwe.org
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34 March/April 2019 Words Mike Garden Images Matetsi Victoria Falls Matetsi VictoriaFalls
www.nzira.co.zw 35 In昀椀nity Pool “Imagine a scene where you can sit alongside one of the widest rivers in Africa on a hot day with clear blue skies and the air conditioning soundlessly cooling your large, well-appointed suite. Then, add in an in昀椀nity pool enhancing your view of the mass of water 昀氀owing slowly down to the mighty Victoria Falls some 40km away. A crocodile slips lazily off of the sandbank on the other side of the river and a tiger昀椀sh leaps to the sky a little way off”
36 March/April 2019 Siesta Spot “One of the most important ,yet often neglected, aspects of a holiday is 昀椀nding time to have a completely relaxed “deep sleep”. At Matetsi Victoria Falls you are so far removed from the madding crowd – no need to hear that noisy car speed past your room or be on half alert in case a needy burglar has chosen your home to visit. You will hear the sounds of the wildest Africa with owls hooting nearby; hippos snorting in the early morning; and the cackle of a hyena sneaking up on a recent lion kill. ” Bath in Paradise “In the heat of the day you take a cold shower in the enclosed area with Acacia trees in full leaf shielding you from the intense rays of sunlight. Later in the afternoon you wander over to the bathroom and start 昀椀lling the large oval bathtub with hot water and the best smelling bath salts. Then, a quiet gin and tonic sundowner sitting on the verandah waiting for the hot water to absorb the right quantity of salts to give the most relaxing 15 minutes of mindfulness. Then you lie peacefully in six inches of soapy suds breathing it all in.” Think of everything you have ever dreamed of having in your bedroom and I am sure you 昀椀nd the best example of it in these luxurious bedrooms: extra-long king size beds with the most comfortable pillows; 昀椀ne gauze windows and door frames to keep all the irritating insects out in the wild and well away from buzzing around your ears; resplendent lounge chairs allowing you to spend time browsing through the awe inspiring hard covered books with some of the best photography you will ever see.
www.nzira.co.zw 37 Dining Out “After a long early morning game drive with sightings of most of the Big Five, one generally has a long slow breakfast seated outdoors 昀椀lling one’s belly with just about any type of brunch you can imagine. The tables are set up with the 昀椀nest cutlery and crockery – even wine glasses for those that are not worried about what the outside world thinks of their debauchery. As the well-known saying goes: Everything in moderation. Okay then I will have another piece of that delicious bream 昀椀llet “
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www.nzira.co.zw 39 Article and Images Shannon Wilson he early morning sun colours the grey teak trees in a burnt orange hue and the October air is dry and crisp. Our guide, Peter, tells us that the morning game drives are for the cats. Green ponchos on, gripping the cool railing of the safari vehicle we go in search of the elusive felines. Ivory Lodge, also known as the Land of Teak and Tusks (for good reason), is located in the Sikumi Forest near Hwange National Park and forms part of the Amalinda Safari Collection. We were welcomed into the lodge with some much-needed wet facecloths and sweet drinks. With the provided bird book in hand, we were able to lounge on the chairs that face the 昀椀repit and provide a stunning view of the pool and safari camp. “Treehouse” rooms overlook the large watering hole that invites wildlife of all shapes and sizes to come and quench their thirst from sunup to sundown. We settled down in one of the suite rooms which are equipped with both a shower and a large bath with a viewing window – perfect for a late evening bubble bath under the stars. The double bed is adorned with an essential four post mosquito net that looks over the wooden balcony onto the savanna where we enjoyed a cup of coffee at dawn while watching the kudu on their morning stroll. the land of teak and tusks t
40 March/April 2019 The thatched hide that stands near the watering hole is the prime spot for game viewing. The elephants often come right up to the structure to eat the salt located nearby holding their trunks in the air every so often. We were fortunate enough to see several herds, less than a metre away on two out of the three days we were there! They were usually revolted by our scent throwing their trunks down and moving away for a while and then slowly coming back to the rich minerals. Meal times are always a treat at Ivory Lodge, not only because of the delicious food but also because of the people seated nearby. Our 昀椀rst day certainly made for interesting dinner conversation as we found ourselves being entertained by guests from all over the world: visitors from India and Australia, others from Canada, South Africa and Scotland! Guided by Gee Travels, they came to see the Falls and Hwange, before venturing out of the country and heading their separate ways. Ivory Lodge offers a variety of activities ranging from game drives and walking safaris to community visits under the Mother Africa Trust initiative and excursions to see the wild dog conservation efforts. Our search for the cats was not in vain and we stumbled across a pride of lion lying in the middle of the road just half an hour into our game drive. We watched them tuck into an elephant that had died the previous week. Peter informed us that these juveniles were born from the big male Mopane and would soon have to leave the pride. We left the lion to their meal and continued to Hwange National Park for ours at the viewpoint. The grass now glistened in the late morning as we searched the high branches for a leopard and looked under the acacias for the cheetah which we later found yawning in the shade. Unfortunately, we never located the elusive leopard. I guess that’s just another reason to go back and experience what Khulu Bush camp has to offer!
www.nzira.co.zw 41 How to get there: By car is best, it’s about 3 hours from Bulawayo and two hours from Victoria Falls. We 昀氀ew into Bulawayo from Harare for $100* one way and then drove to the lodge which is extremely easy to 昀椀nd. Best time of year: April to September – Zimbabwe’s winter season so it is not too hot and the game is easier to 昀椀nd as the bush is not as thick! *Subject to change The setting sun painted the sky a deep pink as we sipped on ice-cold gin and tonics, watched a giraffe munch on some of the blooming green leaves and chatted to Peter about how he became a guide. It was our 昀椀nal night and the manager, Sean, surprised us with a romantic, candlelit dinner on the deck complimented by red wine, steak, mashed potato and vegetables. We spent the remainder of the evening by the 昀椀re catching up with two young men from Norway who were volunteering at Ivory after one of them met Sharon Stead (owner of the Amalinda Safari Collection) a couple years ago while on a family holiday. Ivory Lodge provides guests with a sensational and personal holiday in the bush at a secluded, peaceful and beautiful place. We could write many more pages for you about the kudu we saw who can easily jump up to two metres or the delectable lamb stew and the impeccable service, but you will have to go there yourself to understand how truly wonderful the experience is.
0800hrs-1800hrs Stanbic Bank Zimbabwe @StanbicBankZW Stanbic Bank Zimbabwe ' The Great Zimbabwe Experience' What can you expect from Ancient City Lodge? Award Winning Resort 1 Shepherd's Plot,Great Zimbabwe Masvingo Zimbabwe. Call 039 265 120 Email [email protected]
www.nzira.co.zw 43 fter an early start, we turn off the Juliasdale-Mutare Road onto the Honde Valley Road winding down into the fertile and lush Honde Valley. There is a constant change of scenery, from the pine trees to subsistence farming of bananas, mangoes, avocados, papayas and peaches. There are few places in Zimbabwe where you can buy a big bag of mangoes or an entire banana branch for just one bond! The Honde Valley has the Zimbabwean touch - friendly people sharing all their joy. Looking up to the escapement, one can see the mighty Mutororo and Mutarazi Falls, Zimbabwe’s highest waterfall, cascading down in all their beauty. This region also boasts the highest mountain, Mount Nyangani where it is said that the mere whisper of a word in some places will cause you to disappear. It’s remarkable that within one hour of a drive you will witness both of these magni昀椀cent sights. Following this road, passing the hundreds of goats, the very equipped town of Hauna and the gushing Pungwe River, you will eventually arrive at the Eastern Highlands Plantations. Green. Lush. That’s the only way to describe the vast array of tea covering every slope in sight. Described by visitors as ‘heaven on earth’, these words are nothing short of the truth. Once we arrived at Aberfoyle Lodge, the friendly staff, all of whom seem to have been born and raised in the Honde Valley, welcomed us. Aberfoyle Lodge was completed in 1960 as a club for the tea estate staff and later converted to a 15 bedroom fully-catered lodge which is now managed by Far and Wide Zimbabwe. It still has the original wooden 昀氀oors, large verandahs and old-fashioned comfort but with new décor and very comfortable ensuite bedrooms. Each of these bedrooms are named after the unique birds found here, with the colours of the walls matching the respective bird. Aberfoyle has undergone three phases of renovations in the last 8 years, and it shows! Aberfoyle Lodge really encompasses everything to do with the beauty of the outdoors. Road Trip A With its offerings of zip lining through the trees, sliding down a ten-metre bum slide or white water rafting; hiking through the riparian forest or learning about the history of the Eastern Highlands Plantation through a tea factory tour; or birding with brilliant guide we able to truly explore ‘Zimbabwe’s hidden gem’. Enjoying a lengthly drive west brought up the Nyangwe Fort; the home of a people with a more settled way of life who started to in昀椀ltrate the country two thousand years ago. What, at 昀椀rst glance, looked like an arrangement of stone, was in fact the representation of those who were able to live as settled communities. It was these people and their descendants who were responsible for the great number of prehistoric structures for which the Nyanga District is most famous. The surrounding areas contain many archaeological remains of people from this time who lived by the stone-built pit structures and who built stone forts on the heights. The people of this time lived in the warmer valleys and only retreated to the heights for safety. Nyangwe Fort, located near Mare Dam in Nyanga National Park, is the largest, most intact, and probably the best example of the Uplands Type 8 Fort in Nyanga. Its massive stonework is a 昀椀ne example of Nyanga ruins built some 400 years ago. Article Kelly Stijkel and Jenni Ferguson Images Kelly Stijkel, Jenni Ferguson and Chris Cragg Exploration based in Nyanga, we at NZiRA found two pieces and combined them to bring you your next best idea for a roadtrip in our great Zimbabwe
44 March/April 2019 Sources: 1. R. Summers. Ancient Ruins and Vanished Civilisations of Southern Africa. Published by: T.V. Bulpin Publications, Cape Town, 1971, First Edition (text content and Map) 2. R. Summers. Inyanga: Prehistoric Settlement in Southern Rhodesia. Cambridge: at the University Press, UK 1958 (text content) 3. Mike Tucker (UK), zim昀椀eldguide.com (text and some photographs) Chawomera Fort, visible from Nyangwe, is of similar construction and hails from the same time period. Nyangwe Fort is in a commanding situation; it enjoys wide views over the valley towards Mount Nyangani, whilst crowning a rocky promontory surrounded by steep drops and sharp rocky slopes. The summit is crowned by the original enclosure, which is surrounded by 昀椀ve further enclosures. All have loopholes, arrowslits built into the wall and most contain low stone circles of hut bases. The main features of the Fort are the tall walls, consisting of large, close-昀椀tting blocks of stone which form enclosures characterised by low lintelled entrances. The Fort was visited by Dr Heinrich Schilicher in 1897 and Dr Carl Peters in 1900, who both proposed exotic theories of ancient Semitic origin. RN Hall attributed them to ‘Arabs’ of the 11th or 12th centuries from the East African cities of Mogadishu and Kilwa. Dr Randall Maclver, a professional archaeologist brought out by the Rhodes Trustees, ascribed all the Rhodesian ruins to Bantu speaking peoples, living between the 13th and 17th centuries. The late Peter Garlake once commented that there was bitter controversy between the disciples of Peters, Hall and Maclver on the origin of the ruins. Roger Summers and Keith Robinson only put this controversy to rest in 1948 when the Inyanga Research Fund sponsored a series of excavations. Their results were published in 1958 by Summers in Inyanga: Prehistoric Settlement in Southern Rhodesia. Study of the archaeological 昀椀nds from the ruins consisting of beads, pottery, bone and metalwork makes it quite clear that no site shows any exotic Semitic or Arab in昀氀uence. Another controversy surrounded the loopholes in the Fort walls, which were associated by early archaeologists to Fort Sao Caetano of Sofala. This started endless speculation as to the origin of these monuments which controversy again only ended with the excavations by Summers and Robinson in 1951. Roger Summers believes the original enclosure (see map) was (B) to which (E) and (F) were then added. Then came (A) then (D) and 昀椀nally (C). Within these enclosures, there are low stone circles – the remains of huts and granaries. They are believed to date from around the 16th century when the climate of the Nyanga Uplands seems to have been drier than today, enabling grain crops to be cultivated.
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48 March/April 2019 Air Zimbabwe Commercial Training School he Air Zimbabwe Commercial Training School offers a plethora of courses for up skilling internal staff as well as external clients with an interest in any of the areas which are covered. One such course is Passenger Fares and Ticketing which is offered as a three-part course: Elementary, Basic and Advanced Fares Ticketing. A holder of such quali昀椀cations is able to kick start a career in aviation as a Travel Consultant working within an Airline or any Travel Agent globally. These courses offer expert knowledge on the fundamentals for pricing travel plans, interpreting constructed fares and decoding e-ticket data in order to provide passengers with fast, accurate and above all, the best value package services. To enrol for this course participants must have completed “Elementary Passenger Fares and Ticketing” and covered the core elements of the Mileage System Principle, Standard Condition 100/101, the Higher Intermediate Point check and the Backhaul check. This course covers the following among other areas: On completion of course, participants are awarded an IATA Certi昀椀cate of Completion. The last level is the Advanced Fares and Ticketing course for participants who have completed the “Basic Passenger Fares and Ticketing” prior to registering for this course. The course is targeted at the following professionals: Upon completion of this course, not only will one be awarded with an IATA Certi昀椀cate of Completion but one will also attain the following among other competencies: Contact our Training Department for more information on our 2019 Training Calendar and join the exciting and rewarding world of air travel. ENROLL TODAY! The Elementary Passenger Fares and Ticketing course teaches the language of fare construction and fare rules which enables a Travel Consultant to provide customers with the best value advice for their itinerary and travel needs. Minimum quali昀椀cation to enrol for this entry level course is 5 ‘O’ Level subjects including English and Mathematics. Upon completion of this course one will attain the following competencies among others: The Basic Fares and Ticketing level course is mainly recommended for the following groups of professionals: •Decode and encode the •following: •Use the international time •calculator •Quote the correct minimum •connecting time. •Apply the IATA Rates •of •Exchange (IROE) in •converting •Neutral Units of •Construction. •Airline call centre, •reservation and ticket agents •Travel agents and •consolidators, wholesalers •Airline tariff and pricing •analysts agents Interline •billing auditors • IATA geography • Fare construction formula • Fare types • Journey pricing • Master steps and checks in •normal fare construction of •a single pricing unit as well as •for two or more consecutive •or contiguous pricing units •Apply the latest currency •conversion procedures •Calculate fares for journeys •with surface sectors •Assess the impact of indirect •travel limitations on fare •construction and imbedded •surface sectors •Apply the latest exchange •/reissue and netting •procedures • Experienced ticketing •and reservations agents •Line managers and sales •supervisors *Rate/help desk •specialists and interline •- billing of昀椀cers •Fares and ticketing •instructors, system •developers and tariff analysts T •City and Airport Codes •Lands (country information) •Equipment (Aircraft types) •Airline Codes •Regions (State information)
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50 March/April 2019 Safe in the Savé Article and images Debbie Swales n return from a trip to the Savé Valley Conservancy in the southeast corner of Zimbabwe, my message to the Business Development Manager of Autoworld was, “Piet, I arrived safely from the Lowveld, but you are not getting your vehicle back!” This vehicle surpassed all my expectations. Not that I really knew what to expect as I had never driven an Isuzu before. For the past 28 years, dare I say, I have been a Toyota fan but this vehicle will certainly give any other make of vehicle a run for its money. Zimbabwean roads are renowned for unpleasant handicaps such as potholes, uneven cambers and sharp drop-offs on the edge of the tar. The road due south of Harare is particularly bad with large numbers of heavy trucks which are a hazard to overtake, but the Isuzu KB 300 LX Auto makes overtaking a pleasure due to the powerful 3l engine. With its low centre of gravity, coil springs in the front and leaf springs in the rear; it drives so smoothly as if it has been glued to the road. 18” off-road tyres add to its ability to deal with different surfaces and lumpy, uneven cambers around sharp bends were a mere annoyance and no longer a threat as can be with high clearance vehicles. 420km later, I turned onto the gravel road that leads to Mokore Camp. I have driven this road on several occasions but this time the dreaded corrugations went unnoticed. At no time was there swaying of the rear end nor was the vehicle ever out of control, even when I pushed it to 100km/hr. Being in a wildlife environment and knowing that an animal could attempt to cross the road at any time, I had to curtail my speed. They have been known to inadvertently jump onto vehicles causing untold damage to all concerned. Unfortunately, I didn’t have time to test drive the vehicle in rigorous off-road conditions, but the 4x4 press button system is simple to use and I am quite sure this vehicle would have handled most situations. Perhaps the only drawback is the ground clearance, which may be tricky when negotiating steep embankments out of dry riverbeds but this minor issue can be excused where safety is paramount. Numerous other luxuries including leather seats, keyless start button, a navigational device designed for southern African maps, reverse camera, electronic 4-way adjustment for the driver’s seat and chrome 昀椀nishes are just a few. On long journeys, cup-holders and cubbyholes add to this, but it was the comfort, versatility and safety features that really caught my attention. This double cab pickup is an outstanding car which can be used in town as a family car, a reliable off-road vehicle or a utility transporter. It has the ability to carry a one tonne load whilst towing up to a massive three and a half tonnes at the same time. The Slithery Stowaway The 昀椀nal day arrived and I reluctantly packed my bags. Little did I know I had acquired a stowaway! A small python had decided the engine of the vehicle was a secluded home in which to curl up and digest a recently consumed meal. Fortunately, the camp staff had seen the python slithering in and luckily, for the sake of the snake and the engine, an experienced snake handler was on site who gently removed it and released it back into its own perfect home in the wilds of the Savé Valley Conservancy. For further information on the Isuzu contact: Piet de Klerk Autoworld Harare (Pvt) Ltd Tel: + 263 8677004334 Email: [email protected] O Image Left Dave Langerman rescues the stowaway Image Left Dwarfed by the giant old baobab of Mokore Image Left Dave Langerman gently uncoils the python from the engine