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Published by BINDU MEDIA, 2023-10-10 04:31:04

Nzira Issue 9

Nzira magazine is a publication aimed at showcasing Zimbabwe in a way that provides travelers with information about our beautiful gem, Zimbabwe.

Keywords: hotels, flights, travelocity, Travel Destinations, Adventure Travel, Luxury Travel, Budget Travel, Travel Guides, Travel Tips, Best Hotels, Local Cuisine, Cultural Experiences, Eco-Tourism, Family Vacations, Solo Travel, Romantic Getaways, Beach Vacations, Mountain Trekking, Wildlife Safaris, City Tours, Historical Sites, Travel Photography, Flight Deals, Travel Insurance.

Nzira 1 Issue 9 Oct/Nov 2018 Masoka African Pitta Camp Matopos Huts My Beautiful Home


2 October/November 2018 Heading to the magnificent Guest Lodge book online [email protected] *Standard, Deluxe & Executive Rooms Available www.bayeteguestlodge.com *Book all your Victoria Falls activities right from the reception! *Rates include Full English Breakfast +263 213 2842275


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4 October/November 2018


Nzira 5 CONTENTS NZIRA ISSUE 9 OCTOBER/NOVEMBER Masoka Article by Tristan Egremont-Lee Snippets Harare to Lake Mutirikwi By Real Food Mana Pools Conservation Education Camp Article by Nick Fawcett Victoria Falls Our Travel Gear Picks Crossword and Sudoku Trails Well Trodden Matopos Huts African Pitta Camp 8 20 66 30 34 44 50 62 68 71 73 74 24 My Beautiful Home The Little Guys Trade & Travel Road Trip Recipes Isuzu Rifa An Equatorial Adventure Elephant Hills Resort Travel Gear Games Bark of the Urban Baboon FEATURES Zimbabwe’s 14 Healthy Baobab Population Safaris for the Soul 38 Linking Tourism with Conservation Victoria Falls Zambezi Cycle Challenge 54 Have something to share? We are always happy to receive photos, articles and letters. Please email to [email protected]


6 October/November 2018 s cold wintry days slip away to a mere memory, our focus is drawn to the indigenous Msasa and Munondo trees covered in an interfusion of what one would normally describe as autumn colours; red, orange, yellow and everything in between. Jacaranda trees shower the ground with a profusion of purple 昀氀owers. WhatsApp group chats of ornithologists and ‘twitchers’ (yes – they are different!) gather momentum as the migrants return. Camps and lodges prepare for the 昀氀ocks of game viewing tourists who prefer this time of the year as wildlife is forced to leave the drier parts of the bush and congregate in areas where permanent or pumped water is located. Suddenly, spring has sprung! Talking of birds, this month we feature one of the most elusive, sought after, extraordinarily beautiful bird whose luminous blue feather spots shimmer even in the darkest of places, a ‘big tick’ on any birder’s check-list; the African Pitta. The excitement of hunting a Pitta and actually being able to photograph one is surreal. A small window of opportunity lies in their discovery and the timing has to be just right - a couple of weeks of calling to attract a mate reveals their location. It is pot luck otherwise. They favour deciduous thickets close to water and require dense leaf litter in which they scratch around to 昀椀nd their diet of creepy crawlies. The thought of centipedes and millipedes slithering up one’s trouser leg, whilst inching quietly on all fours through the undergrowth, adds to the challenge of the hunt and the focus has to be on the goal of locating the Pitta by listening carefully for the far sounding but deceptively close guttural call, emanating every ten seconds or so. Patience is the order of the day but sending a Pitta picture on your WhatsApp group is the 昀椀nal reward! Masoka Camp is unique in its location and guides Mackenzie and Tich, using local knowledge and skills, will do their utmost to present you with your social media trophy. Whilst you are there, take a moment to enjoy your surrounds in a unique environment; enormous specimens of Leadwood, Tamarind, Baobab, Bird Plum and River Lychee trees adorn the Angwa River and its tributaries and once the Pitta hunt is complete, chill under the Natal Mahogany trees, watch the river run by and just listen. You never know what else might surprise you. Some of the other articles featured in this issue include: An age old tradition of hut painting has been brought back to life with the introduction of The Matopos Hut Competition. The effort that has gone into creating the patterns and designs on these huts is astounding and we are privileged to be able to parade just a few of these for our readers. At the recent Sanganai-Hlanganani Travel Show held in Bulawayo, the organization who developed this programme was deservedly honoured with 1st prize for the best stand from the Sustainable Tourism Programme, Green Tourism Awards, presented by the Zimbabwe Tourism Authority. Having spent some time at RIFA Conservation Education Camp in 1994, it is so inspiring to hear of the continuous dedication of the RIFA team and volunteers who have kept this concept going for 30 years, through thick and thin, educating and teaching our children, the future generation, the importance of sustainable conservation. Reports that the number of wild animals on Earth has halved in the past 40 years is terrifying and it is only through organizations such as this that we can help to protect the little that is left. Septuagenarians, Nick and Soo Fawcett, head off to Uganda, don their mountaineering gear and take on the incredibly harsh conditions of the Rwenzori Mountains, proudly wielding the Zimbabwe 昀氀ag at the top of Mount Stanley’s 5109m high Margherita Peak and completing yet another challenge in their extraordinary lives. We all need to take a leaf out of their book; their energy and enthusiasm for life is astounding. No mountain too high, no river too deep; their cup is always full, even when it is half full. Bruno De Leo gives us an insight into the Zambezi Cycle Challenge - an event that has grown enormously in popularity over the years. Who wouldn’t want to ride a mountain bike in one of the most pristine environments, the path peppered only by large rotund turds and mopane tree branches freshly broken and scattered by a passing elephant? For a mountain biker, the opportunity to ride along the edge of one of the most famous river gorges in the world, with no barriers or fences is, irresistible, unless of course you suffer from vertigo! I cannot end without introducing our youngest contributor, Tristan Egremont-Lee. The enthusiasm this 14-year-old lad has shown towards educating us on the smaller creatures in our country is an eye opener and I sincerely hope that his future career is in the wildlife industry because his passion for the preservation of “The Little Guys” will surely lead to much bigger things! Just to add to his accolade, he is one of the youngest people to conquer Mount Aconcagua, at 6960m in Argentina last December. So, next time you travel to Nyanga in the Eastern Highlands of Zimbabwe, don your hiking boots and venture up our very own Mount Nyangani at 2592m. When you reach the summit, give a thought to fellow Zimbabweans, young and old, who have conquered some of the toughest peaks and remember this: There is nothing you cannot do if you put your mind to it and always make sure your cup is full. In this issue Masoka guide, Tich, demonstrating the art of patience and stealth on a Pitta hunt. Debbie Swales A From the Editor


Nzira 7 Publisher CONTRIBUTORS Mike Garden Debbie Swales Rudo Nhamoinesu Tamuka Nyoni Editor Advertising Design and Layout Printer DISCLAIMER [email protected] +263(0) 772 209 162 [email protected] Tel: 024 2782720 [email protected] Tel: 024 2782720 [email protected] +263(0) 775 363 706 Paragon Business Forms (Pvt) Ltd 17035 Cedora Road Graniteside Harare Tel: 024 773021-27 08677006177 [email protected] Whilst every effort is made to check the content of any article, the directors will not be held responsible for any errors or omissions in such articles. We accept that all articles and photographs sent to us are the sole responsibility of the authors and we do not accept liabitity for any misrepresentation. Events listed, the dates thereof, and prices are printed using information supplied to us that we are satis昀椀ed is correct at the time of printing. Nzira publication is the exclusive property of Ndeipi (Pvt) Ltd. A magazine is nothing without its content. Our contributors going above and beyond this month have been: Nzira Travel Zimbabwe produces a bi-monthly travel magazine that is aimed at showcasing the beauty of the country and the various outstanding destinations that it has to offer. To subscribe to Nzira please send your details and payment to our Softrite of昀椀ces at 37 Victoria Drive, Newlands, Harare, or contact us on 024 2782720. Your issue will be delivered every month. Subscription costs are $36 for 6 months. NZIRA TRAVEL MAGAZINE SUBSCRIPTIONS, DELIVERED TO YOUR DOOR InfoNzira nziramagazine Nzira Gus Le Breton David Brazier Mike Garden Mafungi Bryony Rheam Veronique Attala André van Rooyen Gemma Peters The RIFA Committee and Management Team Tristan Egremont-Lee Bruno De Leo Melissa Wynn Piet de Klerk Tony Wood Tisha Greyling Kevin Butler Mackenzie Zirota Werner Suter Jules Costa Julie Havercroft Carl van der Riet Judy Macdonald Nick Fawcett The Outdoor Store Gregg Robinson Judy Amira Adam Herscovitz 0800hrs-1800hrs


8 October/November 2018 The chevron shape is a symbol of fertility © André van Rooyen


Nzira 9 Matopos Huts t would be wrong to describe the My Beautiful Home competition as a celebration of traditional Ndebele hut decoration, for there is little that is traditional about it. When the AmaNdebele arrived in the area now known as Matabeleland in 1840, they began building their huts in characteristic beehive style: both the sides of the hut and the roof were made of grass. Whilst this design had been effective in KwaZulu Natal, where the Ndebele had originated from, it wasn’t so successful in the hot, dry climate of southern Zimbabwe because the grass from the roof reached the ground making it easy for white ants to attack and destroy in very little time. It was, therefore, out of necessity that they started to consider new ways of building their huts. First, they tried putting a beehive roof on a cylinder hut before 昀椀nally settling on a cone shape roof on a cylindrical base and walls. Now that the walls were stand alone and made of mud, not grass, they provided a surface on which to paint. As King Mzilikazi Khumalo had made his way north of the Limpopo, the AmaNdebele had incorporated many Sotho and Tswana people and inevitably, their cultural practices were in昀氀uenced by them. One of them being the decoration of their huts’ external walls. I My Beautiful Home Article Bryony Rheam Images André van Rooyen, Adam Herscovitz, Veronique Attala © André van Rooyen


10 October/November 2018 According to local historian, Pathisa Nyathi, hut decorations are historically geometric in shape. The colours chosen are red (isibomvu), black (isidaka) and white, made from the ash of the Umtswiri tree. Many of the current designs are of 昀氀owers or may include numbers and letters, but the traditional shape is that of the chevron. This pattern may appear to be a simple geometric shape, but it has a much deeper meaning. It is, in fact, a fertility symbol – the ‘v’ shape is symbolic of the legs and the upper part, the womb of a woman, from where we all began. This is no simple ‘good luck’ motif wishing the inhabitants of the hut a large, healthy family, it also represents continuity of the human race, eternity, and indeed, immortality: individuals perish, humanity is forever. The circular shape of both the huts and the chevron design upon them are inspired, not by human invention, but by the cosmos: the movement of the stars and the planets. It is a Western concept that art is created for art’s sake. In Africa, art and functionality go together. Pictures communicate a message as well as serve a purpose. Circles, equilibrium and symmetry are all part of African aesthetics which is why a hut is more than just a hut and why a wall is already a thing of beauty, whether it is painted or not. Circles complete the unending cycle of life. The Banyubi people (an offshoot of the Kalanga) who lived in the Matopos, were already building a cone roof on a cylinder-shaped base. Their unique characteristic was their internal walls, which had shelves, on which to keep their pots and other cooking instruments. This moulding can still be seen in the modern huts where it has also been extended to include tables, chairs and even ovens and sinks. After being polished with a pebble (imbokodo), the relief is then painted with a mixture made from the bark of the isigangatsha tree which has been boiled with green soap. The Ndebele in昀氀uence on the huts is restricted to the tiered thatch on the roof and thus what is often referred to as ‘traditional’ is actually an amalgam of different cultures. © Adam Herscovitz © Veronique Attala © André van Rooyen Painting of the huts is solely a female occupation


Nzira 11 Over the past century, the practice of hut decoration has been on the decline and today is only really relevant to the kitchen hut. Many of the bedroom huts are built in a European design – a small rectangular building with a zinc roof. It is unfortunate that modernisation has become synonymous with Europeanisation. Many people do not value rural life anymore and are at pains to eschew their culture. However, the My Beautiful Home competition has gone a long way towards reviving the tradition of hut decoration. Started by a French lady, Veronique Attala, the competition has been going since 2014. Veronique enjoys going cycling in the Matopos and this is where she discovered a number of people who were still decorating their huts in the traditional way. This was a sign that the people who lived in them were happy and that they loved the place in which they lived. Despite the language barrier and the cultural differences between her and the local people, she felt a oneness, a shared happiness that does not need to be communicated with words. She got in touch with local historian, Pathisa Nyathi, and architect, John Knight, to see if there was any way to revive and celebrate this practice and together they visited the local chief to promote the idea. Soon, other people joined the team, such as Clifford Zulu from The National Gallery, Andre van Rooyen (photography), Violette Kee-Tui and Butholeswi Nyathi. There were thirty entrants in the 昀椀rst year, by 2016 there were four hundred. The role of the woman as the source of life, ‘the womb’, is highly prized in traditional life: the painting of the huts is a solely female occupation. When polygamy was the accepted practice, each wife would have her own kitchen hut in which she would cook and sleep. Birth took place in this hut and it is therefore synonymous with the continuation of life. It is also in the kitchen where rituals to propitiate the ancestors are performed. Offerings are left at the back of the kitchen area where nobody is allowed to sit. One person, usually the head of the household, appeals to the ancestors on behalf of the family. The ancestors, in turn, are intermediaries between humans and God, who is not to be appealed to personally. When someone has died, the corpse is placed in the kitchen hut before burial and so completes the unending cycle of life. There are a number of prizes, including those for the best interior and the best exterior. The prizes comprise of wheelbarrows, kitchenware, water tanks, ploughs, bicycles and torches. A recent grant from the US Embassy means that a coffee table book detailing the history and tradition behind the decorations and the competition itself will soon be available. Ultimately, however, Veronique wishes that the local people themselves bene昀椀t in a wider sense from the competition, by involving them in ecotourism. Interestingly, the means for the local people to improve their lives today relies on the revival of a traditional form of art, but it is a technique that has proved it is open to change. Modern decorations include jigsaw puzzle pieces and even pictures of Christ and Osama Bin laden. As the newly-arrived AmaNdebele were able to adapt to their new environment over a hundred years ago, so, it is hoped, today’s villagers are able to adapt to the demands of the 21st century. We can provide a guide to go see some of the homes. A high clearance vehicle is required. For further information: Email [email protected] Whatsapp +33603975420 © André van Rooyen © André van Rooyen


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14 October/November 2018 Article Gus Le Breton ew travellers to Zimbabwe can fail to be impressed by the sheer size and grandeur of the spectacular baobab tree. As you gaze in awe up into its branches and re昀氀ect on the fact that this very tree was alive at the time of the Munhumutapa empire in the 15th century (or even, in some cases, the Roman empire!), who wouldn’t be impressed. This is a living, breathing, piece of history. Which is why, when the story came out earlier this year, that baobab trees are dying in unprecedented numbers because of climate change, there was signi昀椀cant cause for concern but is the concern really justi昀椀ed? Although baobabs are found in over 30 African countries, Zimbabwe has one of the highest baobab populations, estimated at over 5 million trees, according to a study undertaken by the trade association PhytoTrade Africa. Zimbabwe’s. Healthy Baobab Population F Images David Brazier


Nzira 15 Zimbabwe’s Healthy Baobab Population Recently the baobab fruit has earned itself the moniker of “the African Superfruit” and justi昀椀ably so. Exceptionally rich in 昀椀bre, Vitamin C, calcium, magnesium, iron and potassium, daily consumption of the fruit powder is said to boost immunity and help prevent illness. Researchers have also identi昀椀ed speci昀椀c health properties around the regulation of blood sugar levels and improving gut health through its prebiotic activity. The seed oil is also highly prized in the cosmetics industry having remarkable ability to keep the skin moisturized throughout the day. A fact to which the author of this article, who uses it as a daily shaving oil, can testify! In the last few years, an industry has grown up around the sustainable harvesting of the fruit to supply both the health food and the cosmetics sectors. Zimbabwe is at the forefront of this industry and there are already over 4,000 organically-certi昀椀ed harvesters in the country engaged in baobab harvesting. Moreover, as the role of harvesting fruit traditionally falls to women, the primary bene昀椀ciaries of this growing market are female. It is also a win-win for conservation. The baobab is a key indicator of a healthy ecosystem and hollow baobabs provide homes to a variety of bats, animals, birds, insects and reptiles. The biggest cause of baobab mortality is the clearance of land for arable agriculture. Farmers do this because they need to make a living despite the fact that most baobabs in Zimbabwe occur in very dry areas, often with poor soils and little hope of any productive arable agriculture. Give the baobab tree an economic value and suddenly there is no need to convert the land. Rather keep it as it is and use the existing indigenous trees to generate a much more sustainable income for much less effort. As a result, the trees are protected instead of cleared, with additional bene昀椀ts for the soil stability and water catchment protection. There have been questions as to whether harvesting baobab fruit from the wild is actually sustainable without a long term programme to replant the trees. Of course it’s not inherently unsustainable – no trees are harmed in the process of collecting their fruit but surely, if the seeds are taken away in the fruit, how will new trees grow? It’s a fair question and the answer is somewhat complex. Firstly, even under intensive harvesting, not all of the fruits leave the vicinity of the tree. At least 10 to 20% fall to the ground, get damaged on landing but are quickly eaten by passing animals. The seeds are then distributed through manure, ready for germination. Baobabs also regenerate from root suckers growing from existing trees, rather than from seed, which is not affected at all by fruit harvesting. In fact, there is evidence that in areas where baobab trees are valued for their fruit, rural people will protect new emerging “wildings” (wild seedlings) that are growing up from root suckers so harvesting and giving value to the fruit actually promotes more successful regeneration, rather than less. So, what about this story of baobabs dying off because of climate change? The Romanian authors of the study that led to this story investigated 15 very large, very old baobabs (the oldest one dated at 2,500 years plus!) over a 12-year period. During this time, 4 of the trees they studied were reported to have died completely and another 6 experienced the loss of some of their largest and oldest stems. Initially they highlighted this as an “unexpected and intriguing” 昀椀nding but later they went on to conclude that, “the deaths of the oldest and largest African baobab trees is an event of unprecedented magnitude”. The story was picked up in the international media and suddenly there was a wave of panic throughout the baobab world, especially for those engaged in the nascent but fast-growing baobab industry.


16 October/November 2018 So perhaps no need for panic. The baobab has survived as a species in Zimbabwe for several million years and is likely to be around for several million more (notwithstanding the changing climate). That doesn’t mean we should take them for granted. They are a miracle of nature and Zimbabwe has several of the largest and oldest in Africa. Baobabs are found in most of the hotter low lying areas but if you’re travelling round the country, don’t forget to check out some of the spectacular baobabs of the southeast Lowveld, including the 27,6 metre diameter tree on Chishakwe Ranch, Bedford on Humani, the Travellers Tree on the banks of the Devuli River (all in the Save Conservancy), as well as the Kondo baobab at Kondo business centre just after Rupisi Hot Springs. We are blessed to have a healthy baobab population in Zimbabwe with trees both big and small, old and young, on which many thousands of rural people depend as a sustainable and growing income source. So next time you see a baobab product on the shelf, buy it and in doing so, positively contributes to baobab conservation. You can rest assured that the exact tree that supplied that product will probably outlive you by many, many generations! When you look at the data a little more closely, a few things spring out at you. Firstly, they chose these trees speci昀椀cally because they were very old, so it is perhaps not that surprising that some of them died. If we studied a group of 90-year old humans and some of them died during the study, no-one would really interpret this as a cause for alarm! Secondly, the scale of mortality was not quite as signi昀椀cant as they reported it. They actually studied 60 trees in total, but reported only on the results of the 13 oldest and the 6 largest (which, since several overlapped in both categories, was 15 trees in total). 4 trees dying out of 60 doesn’t sound nearly so bad. Thirdly, they completely ignored the many other studies from across Africa (including, importantly, the PhytoTrade study in Zimbabwe) that have consistently shown that the baobab populations are strong and robust, with a healthy distribution of different ages of trees and no evidence to suggest that they are under any threat. Although baobabs in Zimbabwe are prone to sporadic outbreaks of a black mould that covers the tree (Sooty Mould disease), researchers have long established that this disease is not fatal and that the tree recovers within a few years from the disease - the tree equivalent of catching a bad cold. The African Super-fruit


Nzira 17 Zimbabwe’s Healthy Baobab Population


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20 October/November 2018 Little These three animals are under one group – REPTILES! This name often sends shivers up one’s spine – the thought of snakes or even just the ‘cold blooded’ is often too much to bear, but these are still important animals and none of them are really bad! Chameleons range far and wide and therefore have a wide variety of diet. They are commonly thought to only eat 昀氀ies but they can eat a range of prey such as praying mantis, butter昀氀ies, grasshoppers, cockroaches, ants and more! They are therefore an apex predator for the insect world and can outgun all of them with that lightening fast tongue, along with their commando disguise! So if you are a person who doesn’t like bugs, you must surely give them your vote of support! Chameleons are themselves food for many predatory birds and mammals. A calm reptile that some still dislike, no matter what they do, is the chameleon. chameleons A chameleon’s tongue travels at 6 metres per second and is twice the length of their body! Flat necked chameleon (Chamaeleo dilepis) is our predominant species in Zimbabwe. Fun Facts 1. 2. Article and Images Tristan Egremont-Lee


Nzira 21 These are one of Zimbabwe’s most loved creatures – who couldn’t 昀椀nd their calm, placid nature adorable? They are also valuable to the environment, not because they are a key prey species (after all, who could get at them through that amazing shell?!), but more because of their own diet. Tortoises keep lots of plants under control. They will typically destroy an entire plant as they feed, enjoying a range of fungi, succulents and grasses. Some of their favorite foods might be seen as a nuisance in your garden! The Kalahari tent tortoises shell was used by bushmen as snuff boxes. The Bell’s hinged tortoise (Kinixys belliana) is probably Zimbabwe’s most common tortoise and family pet. They can live up to 22 years old and their shell shape changes in various different climates as part of adaptation. I may not be able to convert everybody to love snakes, but I will try! Starting with explaining what good they do. There is of course a wide variety of snakes from harmless to very dangerous and because of this they eat a huge variety of prey. The Queen snake of North America even eats cray昀椀sh! Importantly, for us who live around towns, they keep another large group of animals in check, particularly rodents – the favorite food for many snakes. For me, keeping rat and mice numbers down is a must! Just think, if there were no snakes, your house could be overrun by rodent pests! So, I am not asking you to necessarily keep a snake as a pet, but I am asking you to not just kill a snake on sight, but preferably call a snake catcher to remove it! Tortoises snakes Fun Facts Fun Facts 1. 1. 2. 2. 3. The venom of the Brazilian lancehead viper is being used to treat high blood pressure, approved by the US Food and Drug Administration. The author relocating a small specimen of Zimbabwe’s largest snake - the African Rock python (Python sebea) which can grow to 6 metres in length. Sources: https://healthypets.mercola (archive venom/toxins) The next subject’s attraction might take some convincing – snakes!


22 October/November 2018


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24 October/November 2018 he enigma琀椀c African Pi琀琀a can be very di昀케cult to 昀椀nd. Way back, a昀琀er two abor琀椀ve trips to Masoka Camp in December 2012 and January 2013, my client John, decided to return in December 2013 with friends, Andre and Pieter, so it was a very full Land Cruiser that made its way down the escarpment and into the Zambezi Valley. A昀琀er leaving Harare around 6 a.m., we arrived in camp around noon and a昀琀er a light lunch we set o昀昀 looking for the elusive Pi琀琀as. Fantas琀椀c views of Livingstone’s Flycatchers got us o昀昀 to a good start and within about 45 minutes – SUCCESS! Whilst all acknowledged that this was not a brilliant sigh琀椀ng, it was without doubt an acceptable “big 琀椀ck” for the boys. The Jesse Bush, made up largely of Combretum spp., where the Pi琀琀a can normally be found, is VERY thick and being in big game country is also quite dangerous, with the occasional close elephant or lion encounter, where pi琀琀a hunts have been abandoned in preference for client safety! This 昀椀rst Pi琀琀a viewing certainly took the pressure o昀昀 Mack and myself. Masoka is primarily a birding des琀椀na琀椀on and is home to a number of very special species regarded as di昀케cult birds to 昀椀nd. During the a昀琀ernoon we 琀椀cked o昀昀 Redthroated Twinspot, Emerald Cuckoo, Thick-billed Cuckoo, Lilian’s Lovebird, Thrush Nigh琀椀ngale and a Three-banded Courser. Other “specials” include Livingstone’s Flycatcher, African Broadbill, Narina Trogon, Crested Guineafowl and Arnot’s Chat to name just a few. Evening rolled in and with a 昀椀re made by the very helpful camp sta昀昀, we ate and drank well. Pi琀琀a ‘season’ is during the rains and that night it started to pour. With the help of the bu昀昀e琀椀ng wind, the chalets became saturated as the gauze windows do not keep out the rain! Andre is lying in his bed at 5:30 a.m. and he can hear a Pi琀琀a calling. Masoka African Pitta Camp T Article Tony Wood and Tisha Greyling Images Tony Wood, Kevin Butler, Mackenzie Zirota ,Tisha Greyling, Werner Suter


Nzira 25 We all set o昀昀 into the riverine forest that overlooks the dry Angwa River, 琀椀cking o昀昀 bird species. By about 10:30 a.m., I suddenly heard tra昀케c. In the middle of nowhere? Not possible, surely? We ran back to camp, to an absolutely amazing sight. Flood water is coming UPstream! The Mkanga River, a few kilometres downstream, came down in a massive 昀氀ash 昀氀ood and on reaching the Angwa spread out in both direc琀椀ons! To cap it all, we heard the sounds of voices and water coming from upstream. Around the corner come local lads running ahead of the water wielding spears, stabbing cat-昀椀sh by the dozen. We watched this spectacle in awe before the two 昀氀oods, one up and one down, 昀椀nally met, right in front of our camp. The en琀椀re river bed was now 昀椀lled with water. A few hours later, however, it had started to retreat and by evening, as the sun burnt o昀昀 the clouds, we were le昀琀 with just sand again. Situated on the banks of the Angwa River, Masoka Camp is idyllically hidden in a grove of ancient Natal Mahogany trees. Si琀ng quietly in their cooling shade, one sees all sorts of game on the far bank. Herds of elephant o昀琀en cross the river at 昀椀rst and last light to come and feed in the lush forest areas. Magni昀椀cent specimens of Ebony, Nyala Berry, Star Chestnut, Tamarind, Wild Mango, Baobab, even Panga Panga, can be found. Not to men琀椀on the insects, bu琀琀er昀氀ies and orchids. Of course, the real reason for selec琀椀ng Masoka is the African Pi琀琀a (Pi琀琀a angolensis). This bird, from west and central Africa, migrates south every year into central and southern Africa to breed. Extremely elusive and re琀椀ring, it is a species eagerly sought a昀琀er by the more determined birders. He thinks, “Wood is messing around with a bird call recording”. I am also lying in my bed hearing a Pi琀琀a calling and think the same about my client. Both of us were very wrong! There was a Pi琀琀a calling in the tree above the kitchen! How quickly people can get dressed when the need arises! Masoka African Pitta Camp Dining Area Verreaux’s (Giant) Eagle Owl Baobab and Bird Plum Angwa River


26 October/November 2018 The really good news is that seeing a Pi琀琀a is not par琀椀cularly arduous because of the fantas琀椀c e昀昀orts of McKenzie Zirota. One can drive there in about 昀椀ve hours from Harare (4x4 essen琀椀al in the rainy season). You can choose between fully catered or self-catering, simply using the camp’s cutlery, crockery, utensils and can hire an experienced local cook.The camp has three thatched en-suite chalets that sleep two to four. For larger groups, an extra tent with outdoor bathroom is provided. The thatched gazebo is very comfortable with a 昀椀re pit for those convivial evenings. In 2006, Mack was just 20 and living with his parents in their kraal in Masoka Village. Mack’s father, Gi昀琀, had already schooled him in the importance of conserva琀椀on. Gi昀琀 was a key player in the CAMPFIRE (Communal Areas Management Programme for Indigenous Resources) project, which sprung from the 1975 Parks and Wildlife Act, that gave landholders the right to protect and manage wildlife for their own bene昀椀t. Sadly the camp fell into neglect as poli琀椀cal dispensa琀椀ons changed. His dream as a young boy was to 昀椀x up and run the camp for wildlife tourism and Mack was encouraged by other guides to keep records of all Pi琀琀a informa琀椀on. The next step was to get his professional guide quali昀椀ca琀椀on. With his 琀椀ps, he bought the books and started studying. Today, he is a few months away from his 昀椀nal quali昀椀ca琀椀on. Other keen birders got to hear of his dream and contributed funding, materials, equipment and labour to 昀椀x up the camp. Mack and I trained local camp assistants and encouraged guests to donate equipment and books to local schools. Water tanks were donated, being driven 2000 km to the camp. I taught vegetable gardening and nutri琀椀ous cooking, professional guides taught Mack about guiding, someone bought a ri昀氀e for him and he is now the problem animal control o昀케cer for the village. The preserva琀椀on of the Pi琀琀a lies in the hands of Mack, his assistant guide Tich, camp sta昀昀 and villagers. Their understanding of the need to preserve the Pi琀琀a breeding areas has created a unique conserva琀椀on project whilst support and fees from visitors provides an income to the communal area.Mack and his wife now have their own house in the Zirota kraal. He and his sta昀昀 run the camp like clockwork and some of the world’s top photographers, interna琀椀onal and regional birders s琀椀ll talk about their memories of Masoka – The Dream in the Wilds. The Dream in the Wilds Tisha Greyling Mackenzie and Giant Leadwood Tree. Scarlet Tip on Zambezi Bride’s Bush Leopard Orchid


Nzira 27 Masoka African Pitta Camp BOOKING DETAILS and DIRECTIONS Janet & Tony Wood +263 77 223 8418 [email protected] Mackenzie Zirota +263 77 980 7261 [email protected] Masoka Camp b African Pitta Arnot’s Chat


28 October/November 2018 YOUR ULTIMATE ACCESSORY DESTINATION IN THE HEART OF VICTORIA FALLS


Nzira 29 The Finest Al-Fresco Dining In Town +263 (0) 213 284 4737/8/9 Open for breakfast, Ilala Lodge Hotel, lunch and dinner Victoria Falls


30 October/November 2018 ROAD TRIP HARARE TO LAKE MUTIRIKWI aving left Harare at 7am, we embarked on a journey that would be good for the mind, body and soul. It would take us through parts of Zimbabwe so rarely seen and shamefully, some had never ever seen before. Our 昀椀rst port of call, just two hours south of Harare, was the old Enkeldoorn Hotel (now Vic’s Tavern) in Chivhu. The draw card here being a “jail” in the infamous pub. Enkeldoorn, as it was then, had illegally and brazenly declared itself to be a Republic! In the 1970’s, many a weary and unsuspecting traveller would head for the local pub only to be tormented for being a ‘foreigner’ and forced to receive a Republic of Enkeldoorn visa stamp in their passport. They would also have a stint in the local miniature ‘jail’, which is located inside the pub, and this stint was perhaps made shorter by buying a round of drinks or pleading for release or whatever was the particular order of the day! The next stop was Orton’s Drift over the Sebakwe River, approximately 30kms south of Chivhu. Despite the test of time and many 昀氀oods, this 120-year old pioneer wagon crossing is still very obviously there. Unevenly laid stones, rocks and pebbles are tightly packed together creating a low crossing point. Men from Canada and Australia, partaking in the Boer War around 1900 also used this crossing to go South, having disembarked in Beira, Mozambique would then take a train as far as Marondera where they disembarked and began trekking to Bulawayo. A long and treacherous journey, all in the name of War. Approximately 500m north of Orton’s Drift lies the remnants of a small hotel which was built for the pioneers to use particularly if the river was in 昀氀ood and too high to cross. Remarkably, a quaint but crumbling old post of昀椀ce which opened in 1894, is still standing to this day. As we drive south to our next pit stop, we pass and can only wonder, at the massive Mvuma chimney built in 1913 and used until 1925. It still stands, slightly damaged over the years by lightening strikes, 40.2m high over the old gold, copper and silver mine dumps for which it was built. It is still a formidable sight and an outstanding piece of industrial architecture which was used for the purpose of ventilating and removing the yellowed poisonous fumes from the mines. Over time, these fumes left a swathe of stunted and damaged trees in its toxic path. Off the main tar road lies Driefontein Mission and its beautiful orange/red brick church which was built in 1912, complete with stunning stained glass windows and immaculately laid wooden 昀氀oors that the founder and builder, Reverend Fr. Emil Schmitz could be immensely proud of, were he still alive. Original heavy wooden doors remain and on one part of a nearby building is an inlaid brick pattern depicting a cross and the year 1908. Of great interest during our travels, was an unassuming building in the small growth point of Felixburg. This building is the original store constructed by the now famous Meikle brothers who came to Rhodesia in 1891. After the Meikles arrival in Fort Victoria (now Masvingo) and seeing the need for a general merchandise store, they opened up a temporary shop under a simple tarpaulin. Small beginnings for what developed and grew into the famous Thomas Meikles (TM) chain of stores all over the country. H Driefontein Mission GPS reference: 19⁰25′01.90″S 30⁰42′48.72″E Article and Images Debbie Swales


Nzira 31 Thomas was the main driving force and visionary behind all the concepts, including the Meikles Hotel in the centre of Harare, which opened in 1915. This small store in Felixburg, near Mvuma, was soon closed as this area never reached the gold producing potential which the early settlers had assumed it would. The building is standing to this day and still being used as a store with its dilapidated shelves holding just a few bunches of kale, a handful of match boxes and several packets of cheap biscuits in the corner.An old used car tyre stands on the 昀氀oor, propped against the old concrete counter, presumably also for sale. About 100 metres away from the store lies a small, somewhat vandalized graveyard. A tombstone lies lonely in its own cold grave in the dirt with the name of Willie Posselt, hunter and explorer. He was the 昀椀rst colonialist to see the famous carved Zimbabwe birds in 1889 and these birds now feature on Zimbabwe’s 昀氀ag as the National emblem. After a small altercation with the then chief of the area, Posselt removed one of the carvings, exchanged it for a few goods and returned to South Africa where he sold it to Cecil John Rhodes for £25. Many Zimbabweans believe that this carving, the last of the 8 known birds, needs to be returned to its rightful place in order for their nation to be prosperous and for the angry ancestral spirts to be appeased. Road Trip Harare to Lake Mutirikwi Orton's Drift over the Sebakwe River GPS: 19° 9’ 10.8” S, 30° 39’ 1.6416” E The Post Office GPS: 19° 8’58.10”S 30°39’10.26”E


32 October/November 2018 The Italian Chapel of St Francis of Assisi, 5kms east of Masvingo, is a surprising 昀椀nd and feels so out of context, standing alone, in the deserted African landscape with a military barracks as its immediate and somewhat intimidating neighbour. The chapel was built by Italian internees between 1942 and 1946. The remains of 71 Italians, who died during this war, lie within the walls of this regal building which are decorated with exquisite paintings. Its turquoise blue and gold trimmings reminiscent of the artwork in Salle des Illustres, Toulouse. Fuelled by a picnic lunch near the isolated Italian cemetery, just 30m from the Italian Chapel and fuelled by the excitement of these amazing historical treasures of Zimbabwe, we then proceeded to The Pioneer Cemetery. Lying solemnly in the hills, overlooked by Cotapaxi Hill just a few kms south of Masvingo are 17 graves within a low stone wall. A rusty old sign with barely legible writing marks the entrance to the site. One can only wonder why 12 of the graves have no names. Who were they? What was their demise? Buried, with just a cross to mark their lonely resting place. A short drive from the cemetery takes us to the top of Providential Pass on the main tar road from Masvingo which eventually ends up at the Beit Bridge border post. Sadly, just a few tall pillars are all that remain of this desecrated site but despite this, it is still worth a visit once you understand that the memorial stands to remember the long and arduous route through the hills, created by the pioneers for their ox wagons, passing from the Lowveld to the Highveld in 1890. One can only marvel at the perseverance and courage of man and beast, pushing and pulling heavily laden wagons, battling all the elements, wild animals and diseases to go to they know not what but, perhaps, once reaching the Highveld, 昀椀nding relief from the scorching heat behind them and clutching on to faith and hope in the land that lay before them. Our road, for that day, 昀椀nally ended a few kilometres further at Norma Jeane’s Lake View Resort on the edge of Lake Mutirikwi, where further adventures and unusual curiosities await in this extraordinary part of the country which has so much to offer. With a little research and adventurous spirit, a treasure chest of forgotten jewels lie dotted around every bend and it is well worth spending a little extra time in this area, exploring and discovering. Driefontein Mission GPS reference: 19⁰25′01.90″S 30⁰42′48.72″E Old Meikles Store GPS reference: 19⁰26′10.80″S 30⁰50′40.31″E to be continued....


Nzira 33 Road Trip Harare to Lake Mutirikwi Posselt gravestone GPS reference: 19⁰26′01.66″S 30⁰50′41.61″E Italian Chapel, Masvingo GPS reference: 20⁰04′10.13″S 30⁰51′57.95″E


34 October/November 2018 STEP 1 Preheat the oven to 220 degrees. Wash, de-seed and dice the butternut and peel and mince the ginger. Combine the ginger, soy sauce, 1 tsp honey and 4 tbsp of olive oil in a large bowl and add the butternut squares. Toss to coat and arrange the butternut on a large baking sheet in one layer. Place in the oven to roast for 20 minutes. STEP 2 Place the quinoa in a pot with 1 1/2 cups of boiling water. Simmer on lowmedium heat until water has reduced. STEP 3 Meanwhile make the dressing and prepare the salad. Zest and juice the lemon and place the tahini, 1 tsp honey, half the coriander, half the lemon juice, all of the lemon zest and 1/4 cup olive oil in the blender. Blend until smooth. Season with salt andpepper. STEP 4 Trim and cut the broccoli into small 昀氀orets, place in a pot with 2 cm of water to steam for 7 minutes. Wash the peas and cube the 昀氀esh of half of the avocado. Dry toast the sun昀氀ower seeds in a pan over medium heat until fragrant and golden. STEP 5 Remove the roasted butternut from the oven. Place in a large bowl with the broccoli, peas, quinoa, sun昀氀ower seeds, remaining coriander leaves and dressing. Toss to combine and season with salt and pepper and an extra tbsp of olive oil if required.Divide the salad between dinner bowls, add the cubes of avocado to each bowl and crumble the feta over the food. Serve warm. INGREDIENTS. 1 butternut 2 inches ginger 1 tbsp soy sauce 1 head broccoli 1 avocado 1 pack peas 150g quinoa 50g feta 30g sun昀氀ower seeds 1 tbsp tahini 1 pack coriander 1 lemon FROM THE STORE CUPBOARD. 5 tbsp. + 1/4 cup olive oil 2 tsp honey Salt and pepper to season. WARM GINGER-SOY BUTTERNUT SALAD. With Quinoa, Broccoli, Avocado, Feta and Toasted Sun昀氀ower Seeds. Serves Prep Time Cooking Time Dif昀椀culty 2 30m 35m Medium


Nzira 35 STEP 1 Season the chicken with salt and pepper. Peel and mince the onion and garlic. De-seed and dice the peppers. Peel and slice the carrot. Trim and slice the mushrooms. Pit the olives. Dice the tomatoes. STEP 2 Heat 1 tbsp coconut oil in a heavy cast iron skillet. Fry the onion until transparent, about 3 to 4 minutes then add in the garlic and sauté until fragrant (about 30 seconds). STEP 3 Add the peppers, carrots, mushrooms, thyme and basil, and sauté for 5 minutes until vegetables are beginning to so昀琀en. STEP 4 Add the chicken and sear on both sides until golden, occasionally moving the vegetables around the chicken in the pan so they don’t stick. STEP 5 Pour in 150mls water and the red wine vinegar into the pan containing the chicken and allow to simmer and reduce down (about 5-6 minutes). STEP 6 Finally add the tomatoes, tomato paste and cayenne pepper to the chicken in the pan . Season with salt and pepper. Stir to combine and cover with lid, reducing heat to low. Allow to simmer, stirring occasionally for 30 minutes or until the meat is falling o昀昀 the bone. Add the olives and allow to simmer for a further 10 minutes. Divide before plates, garnish with parsley and serve immediately Serves Prep Time Cooking Time Dif昀椀culty 2 30m 35m Medium CHICKEN CACCIATORE. INGREDIENTS 4 chicken thighs bone-in 1 onion 6 cloves garlic 1 yellow pepper 1 red bell pepper 1 large carrot 200g mushrooms 8 black olives 4 sprigs thyme 1/2 pack parsley 1/2 pack basil 1 tsp dried oregano 600g tomatoes 1 tbsp tomato paste 1 tsp cayenne pepper FROM THE STORE CUPBOARD. 1 tbsp coconut oil 2 tbsp red wine vinegar Salt and pepper to season. Order. Cook. Eat.


36 October/November 2018 Order. Cook. Eat. YOU ORDER 1 2 3 WE DELIVER COOK & ENJOY FIND OUT MORE CONTACT ...delicious and easy to make recipes, invented by local chefs ...all the ingredients needed to cook the recipes on a Tuesday afternoon. Plus quality add-ons! ...prepare your delicious and healthy meals and tuck in! www.realfoodzim.com [email protected] +263 (0) 77 731 0018 New customers get 10% off your first order! Simply enter the code RF10 when you order online. Contact Find us Elephants Walk Shopping and Art [email protected] Centre, Victoria Falls deansvictoriafalls.com Call: +263(0) 078 589 8114 Address: 37 Victoria Drive, Newlands,Harare Landline: 04 782 809 Website: www.propertybook.co.zw/edwards-real-estate PROPERTIES WANTED FOR SALE & RENTAL EDWARDS REAL ESTATE 45th ANNIVERSARY


Nzira 37 What to expect A modern clean and well appointed house with large windows and sliding/stacking beach front doors. All 5 bedrooms have air conditioning, en-suite bathrooms,hair dryers and fitted wardrobes. The 6th is a bunk room with 3 bunks,also air conditioned & attached is a crib with changing table,Mosquito net attachment for the crib,high chair feeding table & moveable stairs barrier. The main bedroom's bathroom has a bath & large shower. The kitchen is well equipped with two Minus 40 fridges, 2 additional stand by fridges (1 has icemaker),stand alone ice maker,chest freezers,dishwasher, washing machine and tumble dryer. There is a gas stove / oven. The property comes with a large braai & Weber BBQ. From the veranda you can see the start of the bazaruto archipelago with Paradise Island and Bazaruto Island in view. During the right season you are also likely to see whales, dolphins and turtles when out at sea. The property overlooks the Indian Ocean with amazing sun rise views. No internet/wifi provided; however there is a vodacom aerial near the house which provides good cellular and data signal. Guest access The property can be accessed by dirt road behind the dunes and it is a short 8 minute drive from the centre of Inhassoro. The road from Inhassoro is unpaved 4x4 vehicle recommended GPS co-ordinates Latitude -21,5813 Longditude 35,2460 Guest services There is a management team available that service the house. They can be called when needed. Management can ,sometimes, arrange extra services, such as home help, cleaners, maids etc at an additional cost.Its recommended you inform them if required early as it's not always available. Please ensure you get a quote for these services. Sue Dunlap - [email protected] +25 88 4300 5592 Debbie - [email protected] +25 88 4417 8388 Other things to note You can hire boats from local companies in Inhassoro which are ideal for day trips to Paradise Island and the Archipelago. This is perfect for deep sea fishing, snorkeling or scuba diving if you have the equipment. We recommend MARLIN FISHING CHARTERS (Charles Lee - +25 88 4706 6784) who have competitive rates. Weblink: https://abnb.me/FpCBgse3NP Mango de Tzondzo Email :- [email protected] Tel :- +27 790 390 824 MOZAMBIQUE


38 October/November 2018 Safar椀猀 Soul for the Linking Tourism with Conservation Article Julie Havercroft Images Julie Havercroft and Carl van der Riet 38 October/November 2018


Nzira 39 The sun, a fat red ball, rises slowly over the horizon and another beautiful day dawns in the Zambezi valley. We are near Chirundu on the western boundary of Zimbabwe on a two-hour canoe trip down the majestic Zambezi River, the fourth largest river in Africa. Our canoes glide gently downstream with the current, oars occasionally dipping into the water to steer. The silence of canoeing is one of its main attractions and this serene way of exploring the river is, in my opinion, one of the best ways to start any day. It is by no means strenuous but it is best done at dawn or dusk simply to avoid the midday heat and wind. This activity is part of Chirundu Safari Lodge’s Animal Protection Education Safaris (APES). I am excited to be here to see for myself what makes APES unique. Nzira 39


40 October/November 2018 The beginning of APES With the conservation movement gaining momentum worldwide over recent years, Carl and Debbie van der Riet saw the way forward for a sustainable, non-consumptive and non-intrusive style of tourism in the Chirundu area. “This was a way to further educate tourists and visitors about wildlife in Zimbabwe; what dangers it faces and why it needs our protection. Our wildlife and its environment is one of our most valuable and vulnerable assets,” van der Riet says. “We had an opportunity to move into educational safaris. The tourism market is shifting away from simple game drives, towards learning more about wildlife conservation and anti-poaching”. This concept was ahead of the times and continues to be ground breaking. Moreover, there has recently been huge interest in this style of tourism, with Zimbabwe as a destination, by more and more European tour operators. Working together Part of developing this business was for Chirundu Safari Lodge to launch their Animal Protection Education Safaris (APES), in conjunction with Hemmersbach Rhino Force, a private conservation initiative set up and driven by the vision of a German philanthropist who visited and fell in love with Africa, Zimbabwe and its wildlife, particularly the rhino, a few years ago. The Chirundu Anti-poaching Project (CAPP) was set up by Hemmerbach Rhino Force, Chirundu Safari Lodge and the Zimbabwe Parks and Wildlife Management Authority. Whilst being 昀椀nanced by Hemmersbach Rhino Force the project runs conjointly with ZimParks. Anti-poaching patrols are done by boat, foot, vehicle and air. Chirundu Safari Lodge plays a part in supporting this operation by assisting with the aerial patrols, logistics, pilots, aircraft, accommodation, food and fuel. The joint operation also assists the underprivileged people and school children in Chirundu town, developing innovative garbage solutions for the area and assisting with general law enforcement for the authorities. What’s on o昀昀er Chirundu Safari Lodge’s APES complement the anti-poaching programme by showing guests how the system works and what goes into the day-to-day efforts to protect the wildlife. In fact, all activities on offer are driven by an intensive initiative to teach people more about 昀氀ora and fauna as well as their protection. A typical APES programme of activities includes guided canoe patrol trips, aerial surveillance 昀氀ights, tour of the CAPP base, basic 昀椀rearm familiarization and target practice, snare sweeps, a geo cache challenge and a bush survival excursion. Above Zambezi valley near Chirundu


Nzira 41 Accommodation The Chirundu Safari Lodge operation includes the main lodge which has eighteen en-suite rooms. Set back from the river, it overlooks a pan which provides hours of entertainment for guests as baboons, elephants, warthogs, bushbuck and more, come to drink, wallow and splash themselves to cool down. The riverside luxury tented camping option at Tamarind Tented Camp boasts 昀椀fteen en-suite rooms. Lastly, there is the Pump House camp site along the river comprising of nine sites; each with its own kitchen area and ablution block. There is plenty on offer to suit the mix of local and foreign visitors who wish to come and stay here. The Lodge is also starting to market itself as the gateway to the nearby World Heritage Site, Mana Pools National Park. “Self-drive guests can stay here on the way to or from Mana, or overseas guests can 昀氀y into Lusaka, Zambia (just over two hours’ drive away), stay with us and then take a transfer to Mana or they can have a tailor-made day trip via boat, plane or vehicle,” van der Riet says.The value of the tourism sector to our local economy cannot be emphasized enough and efforts like these contribute towards boosting it in the country, as well as 昀椀lling an important conservation function. I have come away with a better understanding of efforts being undertaken here whilst enjoying a holiday and a ‘bush’ break. This is a safari for the soul. The guides share their knowledge of animals, birds and habitats but, more importantly, the emphasis is on their protection. More traditional activities like walks, game-drives, night-drives, boat cruises and 昀椀shing trips on the Zambezi are also undertaken and a traditional Zimbabwe evening held under a majestic baobab. As a number of the APES guests include family groups, one popular activity with both children and adults alike, is the bush survival skills excursion. They are shown how to make ropes, 昀椀re, purify water and also how to make a rudimentary bush shelter. When I went along to observe, I did notice how much their parents also enjoyed this particular activity. Being in the bush with experienced guides gives adults and children alike a unique learning experience and one that is not likely to be forgotten. The children are given notebooks and are encouraged to observe, participate, learn and connect with nature. Email [email protected] Website www.chirundusafarilodge.com For more info Right Tamarind Tented Camp


42 October/November 2018


Nzira 43 Somabhula Houseboat Lovely spacious houseboat equipped with: plenty of refrigeration space, silent generators, hot showers, 4 double cabins, jacuzzi and 2 tender boats MAX PAX 20, IDEAL 14 Contact: Linda Selby - 0772 258443 [email protected] Lake Kariba Unique & homely bed & breakfast www.casakadiki.co.zw Tel: +263 242 490352 Whatsapp: +263 733 400400 [email protected] 15 Shortheath Rd, Chisipite, Harare, Zimbabwe FOOD FASHION BEAUTY LIFESTYLE 15 Shortheath Rd, Chisipite, Harare +263 242 490352 [email protected] Unique shopping outlets Expert hair & beauty salons Tranquil, beau琀椀ful surroundings Baobab Junc琀椀on Danai Wines Glitz & Glam Clothing I-Safari Outdoor Gear Kidd Hunta Menswear Kyleighís Hair Salon Now and Then Furniture Orchid Simply Lingerie Pamís Beauty Centre Periwinkle Gi昀琀 Shop Second Dressed Clothing Sharonís Jewels Shoe Shack The Body Shop kadiki BED & BREAKFAST Casa H A R A R E On special, $300/Night for available charters October/November


44 October/November 2018 ana Pools National Park, a UNESCO World Heritage site, is situated in the north of Zimbabwe on the mighty Zambezi River. It is an exceptionally scenic park with the famous apple-ring acacia trees dotted along the 昀氀oodplains, which are a major attraction in the drier seasons when the pods fall to the ground, offering valuable sustenance for a variety of game. Around 350 species of bird life occur here, thus creating one of Africa’s best game viewing, birding and photographic areas. For this trip we used the Isuzu’s top of the range double cab, the KB300 4x4 Auto. Isuzu has always been known for it’s durability and reliability so it makes a great companion for trips to remote places like Mana Pools. The KB300 is not a simple workhorse vehicle. It has all the features and comforts expected in a modern vehicle including leather trim, climate control, touchscreen radio with satellite navigation (which even shows the dirt roads in Mana!) and a reversing camera normally expected in a luxury vehicle. Rest assured you will have a comfortable journey. The Isuzu KB300 is packed with safety features as well. It has 6 airbags, ABS, electronic stability control, hill descent control, rear park sensors plus much more. Although the Isuzu is built to handle the toughest of conditions, we decided to customise and modify the unit for the Mana Pools trip to improve the performance on the rugged terrain. Starting from the front of the vehicle we replaced the standard plastic bumper with a Wildog 4x4 heavy duty bumper. Not only does this give you extra strength up front but it also improves your approach angle when driving up steep inclines or when crossing a deep riverbed. A 700mm Ironman LED light bar was also 昀椀tted onto the bumper. This makes such a difference when driving in the dark, particularly on our Zimbabwe roads! We did a full suspension upgrade by installing Ironman 4x4 performance suspension. The standard Isuzu suspension is very good and known to be one of the more comfortable pickups available but we wanted to increase the ride height of the vehicle. As we were putting a lot of extra weight on the vehicle, the upgrade helped with this as well. A snorkel was 昀椀tted on the side of the cab for air intake. m Article Piet de Klerk Despite what many people think, 昀椀tting a snorkel is not for driving through deep water; it protects your vehicle’s engine by drawing in cleaner air when you are driving on a dirt road. We changed the tyres and rims, which had more to do with styling than performance. I think black rims look cool! On the rear of the vehicle we replaced the factory 昀椀tted bumper with a Wildog 4x4 rear bumper with integrated tow hitch. Two spare wheel carriers can be 昀椀tted onto this should you wish. The last modi昀椀cation done to the vehicle was 昀椀tting a 12v socket in the load tray to plug in a camping fridge. An essential when camping! For the 昀椀rst two nights of the trip we were based at the BBC camp and the next four at Nyamepi campsite. We would have loved to stay longer at BBC but it is very popular and two nights is all that was available. Apart from the scenery, 昀椀shing, birding and game viewing opportunities and a wonderful week away from the hustle and bustle of town, the main highlight of the trip was a fabulous sighting of two cheetahs, on the prowl, just past Chine pool. A very rare sighting for Mana Pools.


Nzira 45 For further information on the Isuzu KB300 4x4 Auto, contact: Piet de Klerk Autoworld Harare (Pvt) Ltd [email protected] Tel 08677004334


46 October/November 2018


Nzira 47


48 October/November 2018 Freight World is ready to move your cargo from anywhere in the world .... We are the best option for:- International Sea/road/air/ Forwarding Local Customs Clearing Bonded And General Warehousing Zimbabwe is Open for BUSINESS ...so are we open for FREIGHT...


Nzira 49 Harare • Bulawayo • Victoria Falls [email protected] | Tel +263 24 270 1813 | Mobile/Whatsapp +263 78 391 0310 [email protected] | Tel +263 29 288 0601 | Mobile/Whatsapp +263 78 385 6394 [email protected] | Tel +263 83 284 5040 | Mobile/Whatsapp +263 78 389 0807 Book Online www.n1hotel.co.zw


50 October/November 2018 ifa Conservation Education Camp (RCEC) commenced in 1982 and has been providing conservation education at its current location since 1988. In 1987, Zimbabwe Parks and Wildlife Management Authority allocated RCEC a permanent home, approximately 4km upstream of Chirundu town, which is situated on the western boundary of Zimbabwe. Over this 30-year period, somewhere in the region of 35,000 youngsters have had the opportunity to partake in a true wilderness experience, learning and understanding about the importance of preserving our wildlife and natural resources and having a lot of fun at the same time. RCEC also works with the local Chirundu community on a number of projects which include conservation education sessions and self help projects conducted at the local Rutendo school in Chirundu. As an adjunct to this, a chicken raising project and tree growing project have been established. The thinking behind these is to teach the students useful skills and thereby reduce the likelihood that they will turn to poaching, charcoal burning, and other environmentally unsustainable activities. If funding becomes available, there are plans to build a room at the school, to be used as an environmental education resource centre and also to start a 昀椀sh farming project. R There is much work to be done in educating future generations in this arena and this is only going to be respected if they are taught to understand the importance of these issues, are ably motivated, capable and experienced, to preserve these areas. Many modern day challenges face wildlife and natural resources of different countries and Zimbabwe is no exception. These challenges include decreasing habitats and habitat loss mainly due to the constant expanding human population, human wildlife con昀氀ict, poaching of all kinds and lack of value placed on wildlife and natural resources. The vision is to take RCEC programmes to the local rural communities within the Hurungwe District, bordering the Zambezi valley, in order to assist and play a part in providing conservation education to those who are unable to attend the camps at RCEC. An important aspect of the Rifa season is that each year a variety of sponsored schools attend the camp. These are schools from the local area (Chirundu, Nyamakati and Magunje) This programme is provided free of charge and funding is essential in order to be able to continue with this very worthwhile cause. Around thirty schools attend each year with a total of between 900 and 1000 students who generally stay for 昀椀ve nights. Three ‘dorms’, accommodating ten students in each are equipped with beds, mattresses, mosquito nets, fans and lights. Teachers and parents who come to assist are accommodated in an adjacent block with four two-bedded rooms. Five permanent staff are based at the camp. Children are briefed on safety aspects as elephant, lion, buffalo, leopard, hyena, hippo and crocodiles could be encountered whilst impala, warthog, bushbuck and kudu may also be seen. During the 昀椀eld outings, the groups are accompanied by Rifa staff members, volunteers and a parks ranger who will carry 昀椀rearms for protection. The object, whilst they are here, is to spend as much time in the 昀椀eld as possible. For ‘A’ level students, apart from the general wildlife experience, the emphasis is on doing 昀椀eld work that relates to their syllabus such as mapping, river 昀氀ow velocity, erosion/deposition patterns, vegetation sampling and transects. RIFA Article and Images RIFA Committee and Management Team CONSERVATION EDUCATION CAMP


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