Nzira Issue 16

www.nzira.co.zw Issue 16 1 NZ RA Travel Zimbabwe www.nzira.co.zw Issue 16 | 2021

CONTACT US Harare 0242 782 720 | Bulawayo 0292 277470 Steven – 0785 471 827 [email protected] Vicky(Byo) 0712 630 513 / 0777 956 257 [email protected] Angie(Byo) 0712 631 069 / 0772 975 198 [email protected] Jackie – 0712 651 390 [email protected] Laki – 0773 068 278 [email protected]

Email: [email protected] Whatsapp: +263 783 733 914 Telephone: +263 242 774106 BOOK YOUR RENOVATED STAY ON:

4 Issue 16 NZiRA Travel Zimbabwe Mike Garden shares his experience at the luxury Deteema Springs Camp whose name is derived from the remarkable springs that surround it. A haven for the discerning jetsetters situated in Africa's Adventure capitalVictoria Falls. "The days are enigmatic, time loses its essence and the soul is uncaged by the unencumbered sensations." A well-prepared delectable dish with great presentation and an interesting 昀氀avour by Chef Jason Cook. "Nestled in the heart of the largest and oldest bustling township of Chinotimba and situated in the recently instated city of Victoria Falls is the earthly, soulful and authentic Dusty Road Township Experience." "Safari Walks are down to earth and an intimate experience of zooming in on the usually unnoticed animal tracks, spoors,..." Deteema Springs Matetsi Fish River Canyon Beef Fillet Recipe Dusty Road Safari Walks Contents p.22 p.20 p.18 p.14 p.13 p.8

www.nzira.co.zw Issue 16 5 "On one scorching hot Saturday morning, we spontaneously decided to do something out of the ordinary and we eventually settled for a road trip towards the Mutare side." Jim Mackie shares interesting facts about the African Leopard scienti昀椀cally known as the Panthera Pardus. Ashleigh Whaley and her family share their amazing educational experience at Imire Game Park in Marondera. In this issue we feature Ricky Dampers, a young talented local artist who has a keen interest in widlife art. We take a look at all the work done by enthusiastic Zimbabweans who decided to form the Matobo Rhino Trust, an organization that works closely with the Zimbabwe Parks and Wildlife Management Authority (ZPWMA) in the protection and conservation of Rhino. Your ultimate guide to a coastal city in Namibia named a昀琀er the Swakop river which forms its southernmost border enroute to the port city of Walvis Bay. "Found at the centre around the pleasures of 昀椀shing on the untamed waters 昀氀owing swi昀琀ly below Kariba is the very pleasant 昀椀shing camp known as Tiger Safaris." 50 57 Weekend Roadtrip African Leopard Imire Local Artist Matobo Rhino Trust Swakopmund Tiger Safaris We learn more about the innovative sustainable partnership formed in 2017 to protect and manage wildlife in Gonarezhou National Park. An innovative Conservation Partnership p.27 p.31 p.38 p.45 p.48 p.57 More *

6 Issue 16 NZiRA Travel Zimbabwe Publisher Mike Garden mikeg@so昀琀rite.co.zw +263 (0) 772 209 162 Adam Garden [email protected] Tel: 024 2782720 Advertising Rudo Nhamoinesu sales@so昀琀rite.co.zw Tel: 024 2782720 Editors Nomsa Nyoni [email protected] Tel: 024 2782720 Design and Layout Tamuka Nyoni [email protected] +263 (0) 775 363 706 Printer Sable Press Unit 21-22 Blu昀昀hill Industrial Park Blu昀昀hill Harare Tel: 024 331 637/8, 331654 DISCLAIMER Whilst every e昀昀ort is made to check the content of any article, the directors will not be held responsible for any errors or omissions in such articles. We accept that all articles and photographs sent to us are the sole responsibility of the authors and we do not accept liability for any misrepresentation. Events listed, the dates thereof, and prices are printed using information supplied to us that we are satis昀椀ed are correct at the time of printing. Nzira publication is the exclusive property of Ndeipi (Pvt) Ltd Media Use the QR code to visit our website for more articles. Nzira Cover Photo InfoNzira nziramagazine Nzira Contact us for subscriptions 024 2782720 Shongwe Lookout Victoria Falls hese past couple of months have taught us that tomorrow is never promised. As the saying goes “Life is about the adventures you take and the memories you make. So travel often and live life with open eyes and an open heart.” Now is the perfect time to plan and make your bookings. This will not only give you something positive to look forward to once this is all over but also to make the most of increased availability and some incredible discount offers. We are excited about our first 2021 issue of the NZiRA Travel MagazineZimbabwe’s finest guide to travel, culture and food. We would like to take you on a journey with us, from the Springs of Hwange to Africa’s adventure capital - Victoria Falls also passing through the rugged scenic beauty of Gonarezhou and even a stop in Namibia! Wildlife conservation is a topic close to our hearts and in this issue, we will be featuring the initiatives led by the Gonarezhou Conservation Trust and an update from the Matobo Rhino Trust, highlighting all the work that has been done to curb the challenge of poaching in those areas. Art is a big part of our culture and we are excited to feature Ricky Dampers a talented local artist who has a passion for wildlife art. As you take on new adventures let us play our roles as travellers: mask up, keep a social distance, wash our hands regularly and sanitize. We shall travel soon! T Editor's Letter If you want to be a part of the pathway to the next NZiRA issue, please contact us [email protected] Nomsa NZ RA Travel Zimbabwe

www.nzira.co.zw Issue 16 7 The perfect excuse for your next adventure Zimbabwean and regional resident specials running through 2021, with up to 70% off. Fully inclusive 5* luxury accommodation, exceptional cuisine, extensive beverage selection, safari, river activities & tour of the Falls. For more information, contact us: [email protected] @matetsivictoriafalls www.matetsivictoriafalls.com

8 Issue 16 NZiRA Travel Zimbabwe

www.nzira.co.zw Issue 16 9 Article Nzira Magazine Images Deteema & Nzira Magazine COMFORT, LUXURY AND VIEWS n opportunity to explore the wild is always a pleasure! Zimbabwe is home to a wonderful selection of national parks that are truly its assets. They provide a great escape from city life and allow you to discover the copious quantities of African wildlife. Among these, is Hwange National Park, Zimbabwe’s largest game reserve with an immense elephant population. Nestled in this park is Deteema Springs Camp, which is part of the Machaba Safaris group. Deteema Camp derives its name from the remarkable springs that surround it. We had the pleasure of spending two nights at this luxury camp situated two hours south of Victoria Falls. Upon arrival, we were greeted by the very friendly staff and offered a much needed “Deteema Cocktail” to quench our thirst while gazing at the herd of elephant and buffalo going about their day at the springs. A

10 Issue 16 NZiRA Travel Zimbabwe This was followed by a welcome tour of the camp that is built with magnificent panoramic views. Deteema Camp is set on a private concession with 8 canvas tents including a family tent, a dining/lounging area and a library (for those interested in looking up birds they have just seen). The tents are a combination of comfort and luxury in the bush, built on raised wooden decks that allow for your protection and positioned in a way that you are granted an uninterrupted view of the beautiful sunrises, the springs and the wildlife that frequent it from your private deck. The camp offers a magical experience of lying in bed and waking up to the sounds of wildlife calling. From the coucal, spotted hyena, the elephants to the distant roaring of lions, these sounds make for a rewarding symphony. As we sat on our private deck in the early hours of the morning, overlooking the elephants drinking and watching the various squabbles for wateruninterrupted, we took a moment to appreciate being able to enjoy the untamed wild while sipping on a cup of tea ready to face a brand-new safari day. Game drives are always an exciting aspect of a safari, one always looks forward to the sightings. Filled with eagerness and anticipation of what we would see, we had our cameras and birding/wildlife books ready. Ntando the guide during our stay always had such energy and excitement to show us the bushveld. He shared stories that kept us captivated throughout; from identifying tracks and the explanation behind them to bird sightings. As the game drive progressed, we had several interactive sightings from an unbelievable large herd of buffalo that blocked our pathway, to a bull elephant going about its day consuming leaves of a mature Baikiaea tree in front of us unbothered by our presence. The most delicate and once in a lifetime moment was when we saw lion cubs crossing right behind our stationary vehicle only to join their calling mothers on the other side. In awe, we sat as we watched a pride of 4 lionesses with about 8 cubs while the alpha male on the other side kept a beady eye on us. So many emotions were stimulated in that single moment. We also visited the Salt Pans situated 8km from Robins Camp, a beautiful flat stark landscape that was stunning. This area made for a wonderful birdlife experience; a change from the thick vegetation to the endless plains of light and white glistering sand. On any given trip, you appreciate it more when the staff go the extra mile to make sure you feel comfortable. Deteema Springs staff made every moment quite special, especially the well thought out bedtime story we had grown accustomed to every night, the well laid out breakfast consisting of an array of freshly baked goods, fruits and their must-try ice coffee! Our trip to Deteema was truly magical from the incredible sightings, the comfortable lodgings, the good food to the kind staff. We would recommend a visit to Deteema Springs!

www.nzira.co.zw Issue 16 11

www.nzira.co.zw Issue 16 13 Safari Safari Partake Wear?Walk Walks with Ntando Hwange National Park is home to the world’s largest population of wildlife inclusive of elephants, giraffes, buffalo, lion, leopard, wildebeest and impala. The park has over 400 bird species including the racket-tailed roller, carmine bee-eater, southern ground hornbill among others. Many a time, people explore the park on a game drive and seldom partake in safari walks, which is itself an amazing bush experience that many people miss out on. Safari walks are a professional guide led activity in an area where there is potentially dangerous game. Unlike game drives safari walks are more “down to earth” and an intimate experience of zooming in on the usually unnoticed animal tracks, spoors, sights of the little animals that crawl by night, where they den, what they feed on, peculiar plant species and the fresh inexplicable feeling of oneness with nature. Safari walks also allow one to witness the Big Five at a close range of approximately 20 m-30 m as per the guide’s instructions based on wind and cover but that is not all. Did you know that the park has the Small Five? Which comprise the ant lion, rhino dung beetle, leopard tortoise, buffalo weaver and elephant shrew. A sight one will often miss whilst in a vehicle. A safari guide initially introduces his guests to the walking safari and provides a safety guideline before the walk. Guests walk silently in a single file behind their guide. The communication during the walk is in the form of sign language. On sightings, or when both the guide and the guests have discovered something interesting, talking is allowed, although voices are kept to a minimum to avoid animals from picking high-pitched sounds. Regular stops are done to check if everyone is still fit to go and the duration of the walk entirely depends on the fitness of the guests, on an average ranging from 2 hrs to 3 hrs. According to the Zimbabwe Parks and Wildlife Act, everyone from the age of six years and above is legible to walk; however, private game reserves and other companies have different company policies in the way they conduct safari walks. Dress code is an important aspect every traveller should take note of. Colours that blend in with the bush are recommended. For example, khaki and green are the best preferred. Cellphones and cameras should be put on silent mode so that the sounds do not alert the animals of your presence. The perfect walk and approach is getting close to the animals and leaving without them ever knowing you were there, so tie up your shoelaces and let’s get walking! What is a walk? How is a conducted? Who can in the walk? What to www.nzira.co.zw Issue 16 13

14 Issue 16 NZiRA Travel Zimbabwe s the rays of the rising sun shimmered over the pristine waters of the mighty Zambezi, the chirping birds that greeted the new day gently awakened me. I felt so alive waking up to this serenity and enjoying the luxurious comfort of one of the 18 stunning suites perched on the banks of the Zambezi, just 40 kilometres upstream from the world famous MosiOa-Tunya. While Victoria Falls is celebrated as Africa’s adventure capital visited by thousands of tourists from the world over, Matetsi Victoria Falls is an exclusive haven for the discerning jetsetters set on a 55,000-hectare private game reserve with 15 kilometres of river frontage. When morning coffee was delivered to my suite, I decided to step outside and soak in the magnificent views of the Zambezi. The private pool on my patio was tempting but the morning breeze whispered something chilly into my ears so I stuck to coffee. A few feet from me grazed two gorgeous bushbucks that were unmoved by my presence, perhaps a reminder that I was the guest here and wildlife roamed freely in this infinite wilderness. At Matetsi, guests have the privilege of choice; you can snuggle in the deluxe kingsize bed while enjoying the breath-taking views of the Zambezi, go for a game drive or sign up for a boat cruise - this is all part of the package. As I soaked in the tub, I reminisced at my experiences since I checked in the previous day, around sunset time. The previous evening turned out to be pleasantly memorable! The game drive was a perfect welcome to this wildlife paradise. We drove through the private game reserve spotting a tower of giraffes, herds of buffalo, dazzles of zebras, packs of wild dogs, herds of impala and countless elephants. At sunset, we stopped over at Westwood Vlei to watch a herd of elephant come down for a sundowner at the watering hole. A whole mini-bar was set-up for me to munch and sip while we savoured the sweet beauty of the African safari. As we headed back for dinner, the tracker, Bongani had suddenly motioned Bryan the ranger to stop the car, interrupting the rather lively conversation about conservation that had ensued. In silence, we all followed the floodlight and behold was the tiny and feisty genet cat camouflaged in the thicket yet still spotted in the cover of darkness A Article Rutsoka Images Rutsoka & Matetsi HAVEN FOR THE Matetsi DISCERNING JETSETTERS

www.nzira.co.zw Issue 16 15 The most significant part of the evening came as I took the last bites of my tender and succulent kudu steak. The “resident” elephant strolled past like a boss, punctuating our dinner with momentary silence. These were all now memories of yesterday but today awaited with its own stories waiting to unfold. The cool morning breeze was slowly varnishing and the summer heat was beginning to creep in when we took off for the morning game drive. I struggled to decide between a morning game drive and a walking safari, but I eventually opted for the drive so that I could reserve some energy for canoeing later that morning. At nearly every turn, we were greeted by towers of giraffes stretching towards the morning sun, herds of impala and to my luck we also came across a gang of mongooses. Every other animal we had seen the previous night we saw again but the big cats proved elusive again. The leopard that had posed for a photo a few weeks back or the pride of lions that normally roam this part of the wilderness all seemed to shy away today. A startled herd of kudus seemed to indicate an imminent threat of predators but nothing came to sight for us, unfortunately. Bryan seemed very excited at every sighting of warthogs and he explained to me that their presence normally indicated a snarefree environment, which had come about from the great work being done by the Matetsi team and Zimparks in shrugging off poachers who constantly posed a threat to wildlife conservation. The Gardiner family upon taking over the property had invested heavily in conservation, equipping the rangers and resuscitating watering holes to ensure wildlife thrived even during the dry seasons. Due to limited activity during the lockdown, some pumps had been stolen but they were immediately replaced. I was thoroughly impressed to know that we have custodians of our wildlife heritage who are unmistakably passionate and to realize that a significant part of the fortunes spent here, are channelled back to the environment. While the Zambezi is most celebrated for its sheer power and its thunderous plunge at the falls, its stillness and gracefulness upstream gives it an irresistible charm that has made it a birding paradise with 360 species calling Matetsi Victoria Falls home. Spotting one of Zimbabwe’s most iconic bird species, the Bateleur eagle, perched atop an Acacia tree was one of the most fascinating experiences of the game drive.

16 Issue 16 NZiRA Travel Zimbabwe Thought to be the bird beautifully sculptured at Great Zimbabwe, these birds known as Chapungu in Shona hold a legendary status. Learning their isiNdebele name stirred some nostalgia as I remembered an old folklore song we sang in pre-school; Ingqungqulu Ehlala Emkhayeni. Bryan explained that the one we were seeing was a male adolescent and the red legs were part of the elaborate features required to charm a mating partner. Some birds of the Zambezi are only seasonal residents coming from as far afield as Russia, China, Europe and other parts of Africa. We spotted many more birds, but the ones that caught my attention were the Wahlberg’s eagle, the European bee-eater and the Kingfisher. The most interesting fun fact Bryan shared with me was that some common birds in Zimbabwe such as the whitebrowed sparrow weaver build their nests on the western side of the tree, the leeward side, a bit of GPS information that may come in handy one day! Hunger was slowly creeping in and I knew the resident chef was cooking up a storm so we headed back to the camp. Muesli and yoghurt were just what I needed to start my breakfast. This was followed by some toast with poached eggs and a medium grilled steak! Everything was served with a warm smile from Vusa who made sure I was well-taken care of throughout my stay when it came to food. I was ready to paddle the Zambezi now, energy levels super-high. There was something liberating about drifting away from the riverbank into the heart of the Zambezi, something calming about the quiet stillness of the river upstream from the Falls. I have been on the wildest white water rafting in the world on the other side of the falls, which is exciting and refreshing, but this was a different experience altogether allowing you to take in the beautiful surroundings and fully immerse yourself in the splendour of the Zambezi. I had been a little apprehensive getting off the land cruiser, my knees going momentarily powerless but learning that the guide had been running these tours for more than two decades eased my fears. Along the way, I just had to take one for the “Zambezians”, so I popped a bottle of Zambezi lager open. The treacherous midday heat was unforgiving but it made me smile because I could finally dip into the infinity pool at my suite before heading out to lunch. My adventure at Matetsi Victoria Falls was coming to an end and I was soaking in these spectacular views for the last time. It was not just the views that were breathtaking, the suites too were stunning all brought to life by Zimbabwean artisans. The hand-hewn stone designs on the wall were a beautiful tribute to the grandeur of the Great Zimbabwe monument, the ornate wood furnishings a reflection of the rich botanical heritage of our country and the natural tones blended seamlessly with the environment giving them an understated yet charming elegance. I was rather worried earlier as we drove back from the game drive to see many dead trees that had been taken down by the ever-growing population of elephants in these parts of the world but I was pleased to learn that the beautiful wooden stools in the suites were a work of art from this deadwood. The disused dugout wooden canoes that formed the centrepiece of the exteriors were testament to the centuries of romance between the people and this iconic river. The pinnacle of the Matetsi Magic lies at their world-class wellness centre that boasts of a beauty spa, gym, 25 metre long swimming pool and a private wine cellar that can hold up to 3,000 wine bottles!!! To ensure I had a bit of time to explore this gem, I requested that my tapas lunch be served on its picture-perfect waterfront terraces. The wine collection was extensive but it went beyond wine featuring some whiskeys, cigars and a toy soldier collection. Replace with the phrase below: The housemaster's selection featured more than a dozen wines the Gardiner family who own the establishment, would serve to guests in their private residence. My palettes were warming up to this Sauvignon Blanc and it felt good to know I was drinking “from the same bottle” with titans of the tourism industry. The collection altogether was referred to as “The Iconic Wines of Southern Africa”. I decided that my lunch be packed and instead of heading out for a tour of the Falls, I would stick around for another hour and get pampered at the spa. YOLO! Their spa draws inspiration from the rich indigenous knowledge systems and I was only too pleased to experience some Africology to relax after an adventurous 24hrs. Experiencing Zimbabwe’s warm hospitality is something I will always cherish, the dedicated team that was assigned to me made my stay incredibly smooth. The ranger, the tracker, the waiter and the housekeeper who I all got to know by name grew on me and in just a day we had become like family. I took one last glance as the shuttle drove back off, I could only imagine how charming the sunset will be today as it strokes the pristine waters of the Zambezi. I was beyond privileged to discover this magical paradise on the banks of the mighty Zambezi!

www.nzira.co.zw Issue 16 17 P椀渀eapple Pun挀栀 Looking for a party punch? Here is an easy refreshing recipe for this heat. i Serves 10 INGREDIENTS 2 cups White Rum or Coconut Rum 4 cups Pineapple Juice 1 cup Fresh Lime Juice 2 cups Ginger Ale Garnish: Pineapples INSTRUCTIONS 1. In a pitcher or a punch bowl combine rum, lime and pineapple juice. 2. Add ice, stir and let it chill. 3. When it is time to serve add the ginger ale. Party Punch Recipe by The Mixologist www.nzira.co.zw Issue 16 17

18 Issue 16 NZiRA Travel Zimbabwe Beef Serves 1 Fillet 300g beef fillet Assortment of roasted veg 1 quails egg Beef jus 5 rings of baby pearl onion (french onion) 2 potato dauphine rolled in beetroot dust Biltong dust Beetroot puree Thinly sliced radishes Micro greens to garnish Round phyllo disk 18 Issue 16 NZiRA Travel Zimbabwe Recipe Chef Jason Cook Shongwe Lookout

www.nzira.co.zw Issue 16 19 6l water 1kg Beef bones 3 medium carrots 4 celery stalks 2 medium onions 2 leeks 10 sprigs fresh thyme 4 bay leaves 10 peppercorns 2 garlic heads cut in half 2 tbsp. tomato paste 1 glass red wine 4 tbsp. cooking oil 1 bunch parsley 4 potatoes 2 large eggs cold Pinch cayenne pepper 1/2 cup flour Pinch of salt 1 pinch nutmeg 1/4 cup butter 1/2 cup water Beef jus Recipe Potato dauphine Beetroot Dust Roasted Veg Round Phyllo Disk French Onion Fried Quail Egg For the Beef Fillet Ingredients Ingredients Rub beef bones in tomato paste, roast off bones and veggies till brown. Deglaze with red wine add water and bring up to a boil. Reduce to a gentle simmer. Skim off the impurities every 20 minutes. Once stock has reduced by 3/4 strain off the bones and vegetables. Using a fine sieve and mutton cloth. Put stock back into a saucepan and reduce again by half until you get a very concentrated consistency. Cool down in an ice bath. Store in an ice cube tray and freeze. Take out as needed. Roast potatoes till tender, in their own skins. Cut open while still hot and scoop out the flesh and mash then set aside. Preheat oven to 230 degrees, butter 24 mini muffin cups, combine water and butter in sauce pan on medium heat. Season with salt. Heat until butter melts and starts to bubble. Stir in flour until mixture pulls away from the pan and comes together to form a dough. Transfer to a pastry bowl, spread in the bowl and let it cool for 5 minutes. Mix in eggs using a spatula until dough is very soft and sticky add 2 cups of the mash potatoes and mix until well combined. Add in salt, cayenne pepper and nutmeg, stir till combined. Scoop potato mixture into prepared muffin cups. Bake until golden brown and puffed about 20 minutes. Let it rest for 1 minute before removing onto a wire rack. Roll in beetroot dust and let it cool for 5 minutes and serve warm. Wash beetroot, Transfer it to a pot with cold water cook until tender. Cut beetroot up into cubes and place in a blender. Blend to a smooth consistency and spread on a piece of waxy parchment paper. Dehydrate in the oven until completely dried on a low temperature. Remove from parchment paper and place in a blender and blend until it becomes a dust like consistency. Strain through a fine sieve to remove any large pieces. Cut up your veggies as desired, add your veggies to a bowl with good quality olive oil, garlic, salt and pepper. Roast off till tender. Add parsley at the end and season as desired. Put a pan on high heat add 2 tbsp. cooking oil. Season your board with salt and pepper, roll beef fillet in the salt and pepper. Place the fillet in the pan once it reaches smoking point give the fillet good colour all round. Place in the oven for 3-4 minutes at 180 degrees. Take pan out the oven add garlic and butter to the pan with a sprig of fresh thyme start basting the steak with the butter and garlic. Take steak out the pan and allow to rest for 3-4 minutes. Method Method Wash off beetroot and place in a medium size pot, add cold water and cook until tender using a wooden skewer. Peel while still hot reserve the beetroot liquid for later. Chop into smaller cubes, place in a blender while still hot with some of the beetroot liquid and blend. Blending the beetroot while still hot will result in a smoother consistency. Careful not to add to much water it will result in a runny mess, add water gradually till you get a perfect consistency season as desired. Cool down in a container then store in a squeeze bottle. Beetroot puree Slice baby pearl onion thinly and place in a jar of milk. Take out onion rings and coat in seasoned flour and fry until golden brown. Add a little oil and butter to a non-stick pan over a low heat and gently fry the egg till sunny side. Roll out your phyllo pastry and use any desired round shape to cut out your phyllo disc. Transfer it to a baking sheet, brush with egg wash lightly, season with salt and bake until golden brown. Transfer to cooling rack. www.nzira.co.zw Issue 16 19

20 Issue 16 NZiRA Travel Zimbabwe Nestled in the heart of the largest and oldest bustling township of Chinotimba and situated in the recently instated city of Victoria Falls is the earthly, soulful and authentic Dusty Road restaurant that gives guests a wholesome and tasty traditional food experience prepared the Zimbabwean way; open fires, cast iron pots and ovens. As you step inside their thriving home, you will experience the vibrancy of the community, as local vendors sell their wares, the enticing smells waft from the charcoal fires and your eyes treated to a plethora of upcycled creations with an inventive dose of African humour and ingenuity. Township Experience Victoria Falls

www.nzira.co.zw Issue 16 21 Being located in the thick of things, the Dusty Road restaurant always has something going on and one such form of entertainment is its’ very own group of children from the community, who will delight guests with song and dance just before dessert.

22 Issue 16 NZiRA Travel Zimbabwe Fish River Canyon I lay awake, with the fly screen of my tent open to the fresh Namibian air, gazing into the star-studded night with a quarter moon glistening off the Fish River’s surface. Once in a while a rocket sized shooting star would careen across the sky and fizzle out into nothingness as it entered the Earth’s atmosphere. I could not believe I was 3,000km away from home. When you lie awake like that, it’s not insomnia, it’s an awakening of the soul. It had started in the morning at the Fish River viewpoint, where I had my first gaze at the canyon. Nothing prepares you for it. You may have read about it, but being there and gazing upon it freezes time. The Fish River Canyon in Namibia is the second largest canyon in the world after the Grand Canyon of America. The canyon is riddled with immense gorges and swooping channels, mottled dolerite slabs and quartz-veined cliffs, river-smoothed pebbles and flat sandy beaches. It’s difficult to remain fixated and unaffected by such a sight, even more so by walking through it. In August 2019, my family and I, consisting of my brother Rodwell; my daughters, Rumbi, Dadiso, Viola and my wife took a road trip to experience this grand ravine. The road trip was an amazing 6,000km return through the Katima Mulilo – Wenela Border post, a drive through Bwabwata National Park on the Caprivi Highway, teaming with wildlife. The entry and exit border post for the trip was Victoria Falls. Article & Images Godwin Kamunda Dare to Adventure 22 Issue 16 NZiRA Travel Zimbabwe

www.nzira.co.zw Issue 16 23 This was a day and a half! We woke up to find the first rays of the morning sun turn the canyon walls orange. After a quick breakfast of cereal with milk, we started plodding through thick sand and clambering over rocks. It was not long before Rodwell spotted Vidi, the Vespa abandoned in 1968. It’s the last one of the three Vespas; Veni, Vidi and Vici (I came, I saw, I conquered) abandoned in the canyon. This called for more team photos! We started off again, cautious of the distance ahead of us. If my backpack was heavy, Rodwell must have been carrying a mammoth, you could see it in his posture and in the way he carried himself. Rumbi, only 12 with virtually nothing in her satchel was bouncing ahead of the group. Tagging the tail most of the time was my wife and Dadiso, our eldest daughter. Late in the afternoon, we reached Palm Springs, the spring rivulet trickling out of the ground is roughly 60 degrees and flows into the river. The ladies had no clue of our whereabouts and Rumbi asked how many kilometres we had done to which Rodwell calmly responded by saying “less than 10 km.” This seemed to renew energy levels in the ladies who suddenly insisted that we do at least another 2 km before setting up camp. Viola (our 2nd born) shot to the front. After doing approximately 300 m, we came upon the first group to descend into the canyon. It was Johan and his friends from Pretoria who had decided to camp by the “river spa” nursing their muscles in the springs where the water had a bearable temperature. This drew cheers both ways, the night was spent at the 20 km mark. We started day 3 having hiked just 20 km and set camp just over the 40 km mark. It was a day to remember, the muscle pain and the torture of the backpack was continuously rewarded by the awesome views, the sound of silence, the simplicity of life that our souls yearned for. Johan and Hein passed through our camp in the morning while we were busy boiling water for the day and narrated the tale of the baboon stealing food from their braai stand and bags. This was when they camped by “Vidi the Vespa” on their first night in the canyon. This set the conversation for the day as we talked of how we would have dealt with it. After some time we all agreed that there is nothing we could have done; you can never pick a fight with wild animals and win. Throughout the day, the terrain changed from thick sand to rocks and boulders, every now and then one would stop, take in the views and continue the rhythmic and contemplative “one foot in front of the other” routine. For the first time since descending into the canyon, we saw some wild horses. By now we had gotten into a rhythm of waking up as the sun kisses the canyon walls “good morning” and prepare for camp when it kissed them good evening. Tonight, I noticed a full moon as it set the canyon alight at night. Having camped while there was still plenty of sunlight, we cooked sadza (traditional thick porridge from Zimbabwe), it was delicious, hot off the fire with canned beef and gravy. The fire crackled until 11pm when we retired to our tents. We woke up to a chilly morning and took time eating our breakfast. At 8.30am we checked in at the Hobas office (Tourist Office) to complete the required formalities and report for the hike. Thirty minutes later, we arrived at the starting point. After a tour of the viewpoint and the obligatory team photo at the start of the hike sign, we began our hike just after 11.30 am. One of the onlookers at the viewpoint shouted “I shall be thinking of you guys when I have my beer tonight”. Suddenly, everyone became tense. We all gave each other a quick glance, now wary of what lay ahead. No one in our group had done a hike before. The chain-abetted descent is steep and strewn with loose pebbles, here caution is required; a twisted ankle will immediately end the hike. The climb down starts to level out after an hour and a half or so. We had not gone more than 250 m down and our youngest trooper, Rumbi started shouting “jelly legs”, and before I could calm her, it had become the “ladies chorus”. Rodwell asked everyone to stop, take in the heights, breathe deeply and get accustomed to the surrounding. All this while, I was trying to balance my unruly backpack made unbearable by SWAMBO’s (She Who Always Must Be Obeyed) fleece blanket - a last minute addition when we left Pumba (Mitsubishi Delica SpaceGear) at the starting point having negotiated for it to be taken to Ais Ais where the hike would finish. As you descend into the canyon you are surrounded by serenity and a sense of calm that is ethereal. Once in a while you are greeted by the chirping of a bird and the call of a fish eagle. The descent is two kilometers before you get to the 0 km starting point at the bottom. Arriving at the bottom, after a 3 hour knee-quivering exercise, we were struck by the immense tranquility of a large beautiful pool, with a huge sandy beach. We decided to have a quick late lunch of pasta and an hour of rest, before we hiked about 3 km to get to our first camp. The camp was a sandy patch with a huge boulder strategically selected to protect our fire from the wind. DAY 1 DAY 2 DAY 3 Jelly legs on the descent Past sulphur springs The shortcuts Travel is fatal to prejudice, bigotry, and narrowmindedness and many of our people need it solely on these accounts. Broad, wholesome charitable views of men and things cannot be acquired by vegetating in one little corner of the earth all one’s lifetime “ ”

24 Issue 16 NZiRA Travel Zimbabwe We slept like babies and woke up at 7 am, had tea and some pan-fried cakes. We broke camp at 8.30 am and quickly picked up the pace. There was urgency and purpose in the way we hiked the first 2 hours. The first short-cut on the 40+ km was a daring one. We did it with the four ladies in tow. It was steep and dangerous, we did not realize it then, but the adrenaline was running at full throttle. When everyone was at the top we looked back, only then did we realize the audacity of determination. Pace picked up again in no time and we almost missed the 50 km shortcut was it not for the huge arrow pointing towards it. We suspect it was the work of Johan and his crew. They were not far ahead, once in a while we could hear their voices. Roddie was far behind on the other side of the river bed and in the right direction looking for it. Then we saw it on the rocks “50 km short-cut”. We took a short rest. There was little change in terms of scenery as we hiked over kopjes but more spectacular were the rock formations. The river was noticeably getting drier the further we hiked. We caught up with Johan and his crew at the German’s grave, where we filled up water from the containers provided by the water marshals and took a short walk across the river to rest under some camelthorn trees approximately three hundred metres away. Lunch was pasta and some gravy. The dishes in the last 4 days were delicious with desert goulashes! The day was a long one, we had pushed everyone to the limit. It was a magnificent 30 km of pilgrimage which required effort and toiling. I could not help but smile at my wife and the girls. Rumbi and Viola sat about 150 m across the river bank protesting. They did not want to go on. Judging by the orange crowns of the canyon and the creeping shadows we still had another hour or so before dusk. They only crossed the river when they realized we were setting up camp. We had a nice campsite high up the river bank. It had (boulders) wind shields, a tree and some bush walls. We woke up early but spent longer in camp. Life had been simplified to putting one foot in front of the other; no stress, no phone calls just the sound of your feet, the chirping of a bird, the grunt of an invisible baboon, the calming silence and the awesome views of the canyon. The Pretorians passed by in the morning shouting “nice camp there”. These guys started just before sunrise, we had camped some 3 kilometres ahead of where they had invited us to set up camp with them, the day before. I did not feel like going anywhere, all around the camp, we behaved as if we were home. It was not until 9.30 am that we set out. Soon we were at the 80 km mark and it dawned on me that it is coming to an end. For the ladies, it was “hooray”, but I did not want it to end. We left our delible footprint ’’284 – Kamunda’s – ZIM” on the sand by the 80 km mark. The first sign of a building confirmed our inevitable “return to insanity”, the “beer” sign by the rock, steel pipes and what looked like an electricity sub-station. At 1300 hours in the afternoon we arrived at Ais Ais, Johan and his crew gave us a standing ovation and made us ring the bell. It was a humbling moment for all of us. 90 km done! I did not feel like it was an accomplishment because I had already started missing the canyon. I felt like going back, I had grown accustomed to the rhythm of hiking, the simplicity of walking, the thought of no work deadlines, no shrieking mobile phones, no meetings, no notifications from Facebook, Twitter and no traffic jams. Yes, your backpack may be heavy, your feet may be hot but then there is the joy of stumbling upon a beautiful camping spot and setting up camp, the conversations around a crackling fire that stem from memories of youth, dips into the river, bathing under the moonlight and the unceremonious wandering off into the distance to look for ablutions. The canyon seemed to bring everything out, the unbridled joy that emanates from the depths of who you really are. Johan had bought us drinks and beer in advance. My 12-year-old daughter was the heroine of the party, having done 90 km on foot. One Mark Twain quote came to me, I remember putting it on the Fish River Plan we had made 18 months earlier, “Travel is fatal to prejudice, bigotry, and narrow-mindedness and many of our people need it solely on these accounts. Broad, wholesome charitable views of men and things cannot be acquired by vegetating in one little corner of the earth all one’s lifetime” DAY 4 DAY 5

www.nzira.co.zw Issue 16 25 The Fish River Canyon trail is a unique experience, a stark landscape, open and wide. There is magic in the connection between legs and earth, the coherence of putting one foot in front of the other and repetition that transfers energy from earth into your body that goes up your spine into your mind, clearing and emptying it. The days are enigmatic, time loses its essence and the soul is uncaged by the unencumbered sensations; the scenic splendour and most of all the arousal of the “qi” or “chi” within it that is awakened by the energy transfer from earth into the body. This was our first time doing a hike and it was an awakening that brought out, radiating love, gratitude and peace. It was magnificent, once you descend into the canyon, you escape from the outside world. The hike is exceptionally challenging and surviving it, was a tribute to my daughters and wife that, “one can live outside their comfort zone”. Thanks to my wife, daughters and one of a kind brother, Rodwell, I will return again! Emergencies There is no mobile phone reception in the canyon and only two emergency exits are available. Evacuation from the deep canyon is done on foot, a stretcher or helicopters and vehicles in the later parts of the trail. Emergency exits can be found: prior to Sulphur Springs at 27.650°S 17.609°E or a Jeep track at 27.819°S 17.587°E. This leads 10 kilometres further to the main road between Ais Ais and Hobas. BASIC COSTS excluding Fuel & Road Expenses (August 2019) Cost of hike per person R 500,00 Park entry fees per person R 60.00 Camping at Hobas per person R 250.00 Camping at Ai Ais per person R 210.00 Vehicle entry into Zambia was US$ 70.00 in total paid out as follows:- Road Transport and Safety Agency (RTSA) US$ 20.00 Council Fees ZMK 25.00 Insurance ZMK 170.00 Carbon Tax ZMK 400.00 On re-turn we paid ZMK 50.00 council fee at Katima Mulilo. Vehicle entry into Namibia was N$ 308.00 (equivalent to an approximate US$ 20.00) all inclusive. Epilogue What to note The canyon is only open from 1 May to 15 September each year. To secure a place, booking a year in advance is advised due to demand when open. Booking is for 3 or more but not more than 30 people. All hikers must be older than 12 years and a certificate of fitness, completed by a medical doctor must be presented at the offices of the Ministry of Environment and Tourism at Hobas. Hikers should not have any knee or ankle problems. The terrain is fairly rough with plenty of loose, rocky riverbed stretches, but as you follow the river downstream for much of the way there are no strenuous climbs. To avoid blisters, hikers should not wear new hiking boots, instead they should wear their used everyday takkies (rubber-soled canvas sports shoe). In our instance the women hiked with “crocs” (featherlight comfortable shoes made of synthetic rubber), much easier and lighter, no fighting with sand in the shoe. There are no fixed camp sites- hikers can camp wherever they like, we carried two small tents to avoid “sand blasts” from the winds.

26 Issue 16 NZiRA Travel Zimbabwe Article Michael Laban (Mountain Club of Zimbabwe) Despite facing challenges presented by the COVID-19 pandemic, the Mountain Club of Zimbabwe (MCZ) has since adapted its activities to the new normal and is still functional. Indoor activities such as the clubhouse and regular Wednesday braai (barbecue) have been shut down, but outdoor activities such as climbing, hiking, and camping continue under face masks and social distance rules. Hiking is the usual weekend event, occurring under a strict number of participants. Camping, is generally a once in a month activity, and camping sites can be at any agreed place across the country. Camping can be difficult for beginners but it becomes fun and easy with experience. There is a magnitude of knowledge acquired by the Mountain Clubbers over time. Unfortunately, this knowledge is difficult to transfer, let alone write on paper – but I will try. A rucksack is important for packing all your essentials. Not only does it give you free hands but as a result, it also distributes weight better and it has plenty of side pockets to pack your socks, torch, toilet paper and a myriad place to tie loose items on straps, which are never enough in my opinion! As the pockets and belts are used for holding heavy loads and accommodate a substantial amount of gear, therefore, weight management is important. Always pack heavier stuff at the bottom and bulkier stuff towards the top. When carrying the pack, the higher the carry the better. There are many points to consider when purchasing camping, climbing, and hiking gear. The weather is an important factor. You should ask yourself these questions first before purchasing. Am I going to camp in the Mana Pools heat, or will it be in the cold of the Finnish snow? Will I be camping in the dry season or the rainy season? The time of the year and the camping region will guide you on what you need. For example, when buying sleeping gear, a good thermal sleeping bag would work best for the cold, and a waterproof, easy to dry one for the wet season. As the cold also comes from the ground up when camping, you would need more padding beneath you than above you as part of your sleeping gear. I always take a mattress for comfort and warmth. Covering with only a blanket is usually sufficient. The biggest need for body cover in Zimbabwe is to ward off mosquitos. Sleeping is an important part of camping. With the taxing physical activity, coupled with the outdoor air, you will have no trouble falling asleep. To be energetic for the next day as a camper it is important to set up a good sleeping environment for a good night's sleep. The first step to comfortable sleeping is to assess and feel the ground before you pitch your tent. See if there are any lumps, bumps, or tufts of grass. Your head should be higher, never lower, than your feet. If it is very flat, a hip hole might need to be dug on the sleeping area. It should be a slight dip, 2 cm at most, where your hip and hip bone will be. You will be more comfortable. D P lanning Rucksack The Weather How to Sleep Weight Management Rucksack Frames There are many types of rucksack frames to choose from, including H-frames, A-frames, internal and external frames, adjustable straps and padded straps. It is a must for a backpack to always have a waist belt for support. My personal preference is an aluminium, external H frame, which usually has frame space left over to tie and strap things to. Its shoulder straps merely serve to control it and keep it near me, but not always in contact with my back. A desirable feature of the rucksack is waterproof quality. Often, when purchasing, the sales gimmick will say it is waterproof, when at best it is water-resistant. Everything is packed in plastic bags, which are never to be left out in nature as litter! If the backpack is not waterproof, there are options to protect it from the rain. One option is a poncho, that covers both the backpack and myself. A cover for just the backpack is better in other situations. For instance, if you need to drop the backpack and scout ahead for water or a campsite. With experience, I find that all the weight sits on my hips on the padded waist belt, which is big enough to go around me and sometimes, the many layers of clothes and rain gear. When walking with all this, posture is very important; do not slouch. Your centre of gravity is very different. Be careful when ducking and weaving under and between trees, consider how you and your load react to the movement. For more information about the Mountain Club of Zimbabwe and images captured by its members, you can visit their Facebook page: Mountain Club of Zimbabwe or send an email to [email protected] Camping Essentials Strategic planning is an important aspect of successful camping. One ought to plan and pack to be a selfcontained unit during camping; carrying everything they would need. A packing trick one can use, is by running through your camping day in detail and coming up with the necessities for the trip. As a camper, you pack through the guidance of a series of questions on daily activities. What will I eat in the morning? If the answer is tinned beans, the next questions are; How do I open the tin? How do I heat it? Through these questions, the list of things to be packed can start accumulating; one can pack a tin of beans, a tin opener, a saucepan, and a lighter to start the fire. In time, and with experience gained all you will need to do is make checklists. With even more experience you might not need the checklists after all and pack by heart.

www.nzira.co.zw Issue 16 27 On arrival in Swakopmund symbols of German occupation are all too evident, with the city boasting old German architecture and city planning. Swakopmund was and remains Namibia’s adventure capital with travellers from across the world and the region visiting right throughout the year. Boredom and idleness are not likely in this coastal gem. From the more laid back activities such as city tours, scenic flights and guided walks to the more adrenalin-filled sky dives, quad biking, sand boarding and boat cruises among many other unique desert, land and sea activities. Many a traveller in this desert country would be remiss not to visit this barren landscape and leave without visiting part of the Namib sand sea which stretches from the Kuiseb valley to Swakopmund, a marvel worthy of its fame. Article Bawden Khafula Images Desert Explorers Swakopmund; s , Namibia Nestled on the southwestern corner of Southern Africa. Namibia is a vast country boasting a myriad of attractions, from the Fish River Canyon in the far south to Etosha National Park in the north. Bordered to the south by South Africa, Botswana to the east, Angola to the north and a shared border of four countries in the northeast linking Botswana, Namibia, Zambia and Zimbabwe together at one point on the Zambezi river. The western borders of Namibia make way to a coastline stretching for two thousand kilometres from the border with South Africa in the south to the southern borders of Angola in the north. The long coastline of the country is home to Namibia’s adventure capital, Swakopmund a coastal city that is delightful to visit. Swakopmund is named after the Swakop river which forms its southernmost border enroute to the port city of Walvis Bay a drive of approximately thirty kilometres. living dunes tour moon landscape One popular excursion is the Living dunes tour which aims to entertain and educate. Guests are taken on a threehour drive through the dunes in search of the various desert critters that have made the Swakopmund dunes their home since time immemorial. Marvel at the various adaptations of these desert creatures from the Peringuey's adder (Side winding adder), Horned adder, Palmato gecko, the Shovel-snouted lizard, Wedgesnouted lizard, the unique Namaqua chameleon and others. The dunes do not only offer desert-adapted fauna but the all too essential flora is also found uniquely in this biome. East of Swakopmund lies the Moon Landscape. Covering beyond four hundred square kilometres, this badland environment offers the traveller a different kind of desert; old rugged terrain with a different microclimate to foggy and misty Swakopmund. A landscape splattered with unique geologic formations from granite outcrops to dolerite intrusions more attune to landscapes such as the Jordanian desert and the Death Valley in the United States. A tour to this area will leave any traveller with memories to savour for a lifetime. The moon landscape is also home to Namibia’s oldest plant, the Welwitschia mirabilis, first studied in the Namib desert in Southern Angola by Austrian physician turned botanist Friedrich Welwitsch in1859 after whom it is named and first identified in Namibia by Thomas Baines in a portrait years later. Adventure Capital www.nzira.co.zw Issue 16 27

28 Issue 16 NZiRA Travel Zimbabwe This controversial plant has been carbondated to survive for over 2000 years. Moon landscape tours can be booked in Swakopmund and a guided excursion organized. Having morphed over a long period to become Namibia’s tourism capital, Swakopmund boasts amazing services from quaint cafés to ultra-modern shopping facilities. On arrival in Namibia visitors are greeted by a large vast open country stretching for eight hundred and twentyfive thousand square kilometres with a minute population of two million six hundred thousand people making the country one of the least densely populated countries in the world. When traversing the length and breadth of this majestic country one is astounded by the absence of humanity in most parts of the country, Swakopmund being a modern city with a population of about forty-five thousand people makes it a relatively sparsely populated centre as well, allowing for space and freedom of movement which may not be reflected in the various entertainment and activity centres of the city which in and out of season are a hive of activity. The perfect balance of fun and activity and the option of solitude in the desert and the sea also within a walking distance of any location of the city. mondesa Apart from the Serene and historic city centre, Swakopmund is famed for its bustling township of Mondesa an area that brings you back to both the traditional Namibian way of life and its modern urban form. Mondesa is the heartbeat of Swakopmund township life. Taste the famed Kapana (barbecued meat) and drive through this bustling settlement best explored on a guided tour with a native of the soil to bring this amazing cultural haven to life. accommodation options From high-end five-star accommodation to the reasonably priced backpacker’s lodges, bed and breakfast establishments, campsites and self-catering accommodation. The city caters to all budgets and is well built to accommodate special needs and visitor requirements. Whether driving or walking, the city exudes an air of freedom and safety with a helpful and friendly population to go with it, smiles and waves are not in short supply. Located on the classic Namibian tour route, Swakopmund is the ideal location to plan excursions not only within the city limits but nearby attractions as well, only thirty kilometres to Walvis Bay waterfront, seventy kilometres to the quaint fishing town of Henties Bay and a further sixty kilometres to the Cape Cross seal colony and the famed Skeleton Coast. Inland of Henties bay the geologic marvel of Spitzkoppe and the rest of Damaraland awaits. Swakopmund is the most ideal travel destination for all manner of traveler: From Windhoek by road 360km, driving through Okahandja, Karibib, Usakos From Solitaire coming from Sossusvlei by road 260km From Etosha National Park 430km how to get there 28 Issue 16 NZiRA Travel Zimbabwe

www.nzira.co.zw Issue 16 29 What to pack Swakopmund weather can be erratic with a cool to cold climate for most of the year and hot windy conditions when the wind blows from the east. Regardless of the weather, it is advisable to travel in and around the city with warm clothing. Sunscreen is a must regardless of regular foggy overcast conditions. Currency Namibia uses the Namibian dollar with a 1:1 exchange rate to the South African rand, when travelling onward to South Africa it is advisable to convert Namibian dollars to the Rand to avoid an exchange rate loss outside Namibia’s borders. Check for the prevailing Namibian dollar/Rand to USD exchange rates on arrival, Swakopmund has a significant number of Bureau de change and banks for currency conversion. Most establishments will not accept foreign currency payments but will accept the South African Rand. When to book When travelling during Southern African holiday time especially Christmas prebooking accommodation is advisable. Crime It is a low crime city but like any other destination across the world vigilance is advised, Namibian police are very professional and friendly, do not hesitate to approach when in need of assistance. Business hours Normally from 9 am to 5 pm. Supermarkets, bars and restaurants will open after hours with closing times varying. How to book for activities Activities can be booked through Charly’s Desert tours. Swakopmund’s oldest and very reliable tour operator founded in 1966. Address: Brauhaus Arcade in the city centre Calls: +264 81 129 9076 Website: www.charlysdeserttours.com ESSENTIAL TRAVEL INFORMATION www.nzira.co.zw Issue 16 29

30 Issue 16 NZiRA Travel Zimbabwe www.shongwelookout.com [email protected]

www.nzira.co.zw Issue 16 31 rom the outset let me say, this has been my favourite large cat ever since I was a young boy. My first sight of a leopard was in the Aberdare forest in Kenya. Interestingly enough, this is where the melanistic form has been recorded on several occasions. Found throughout the Southern African sub-region, here in Zimbabwe, the Pantherus is still spotted in most of the larger national parks (Hwange, Gonarezhou, Mana Pools, Matusadona, Chizarira and Matobo) and large conservancies namely; Bubye, Save and Malilangwe in the Southeast Lowveld. Leopards are by their very nature able to exist in areas where other larger cats have been eradicated. Hard to believe, but Chinhoyi still has leopards, maybe not in the numbers they once did. Leopard habitat choices are very wide-ranging and even climatically varied. They are found in mountain ranges, bushveld, woodlands, deserts, forests and along river lines and coasts, from sea-level to over 2000m. The Matobo Hills are renowned for their prime leopard habitats; a lot of research has been done over the years on the leopard in the boulder-strewn hills. The leopard is a large spotted cat with a coat that has a golden base covered in black spots arranged in groups called rosettes, mainly on the flank and neck. Single spots occur on the limbs, head and belly. It has a long tail with a white tip on the underside. This white under surface is known as a “follow me” sign for the cubs to follow. The leopard is a more thickset cat than the cheetah, built for stealth and stalking. Leopard sizes vary from different areas and habitats; a good example would be the leopards of the Cape in South Africa that are generally smaller than the leopards of the Kruger or the ones in Zimbabwe. Physical weights of the leopards found here in Zimbabwe vary according to the gender of the cat; for adult males 50-70kg and adult females 40-50kg, shoulder height is an approximate 70-80cm and the total body length 1.5 to 2.1m. The characteristic call of the leopard is described as a sawing grunt. Repeated like a saw cutting through a piece of timber. The call is used by males and females to mark territory. Females also call when trying to attract a male for breeding. Other calls are a soft cough when contacting cubs, they snarl and growl when threatened. Leopards hunt mainly using their eyes and hearing, they stalk their prey and once close enough leap onto the animal. One perfect example is the impala, a fatal bite to the neck and throat kills the animal. Smaller prey can be dispatched by a swipe of the paw. Leopards have excellent eyesight, particularly at night and their hearing is very acute. They are very strong for their size and can lift their body weight onto a tree. t The Afric愀渀 PANTHERUS PARDUS Le漀瀀愀爀d F about the Leopard physic愀氀 facts t www.nzira.co.zw Issue 16 31 Article & Images Jim Mackie

32 Issue 16 NZiRA Travel Zimbabwe In a study, I did over four years in the Nyanga National Park, I found that a leopard’s main prey was rodents, followed by both the grey and blue duiker species. In the middle Zambezi and many other game areas, impala and bushbuck are ranked as one of the most hunted antelope species. Monkeys and baboons are also preyed on. rarely recorded. However, the Indian leopard is renowned for its man-eating! Leopards are nonseasonal breeders with a gestation period of 100 days, and up to 3 cubs per litter. The main predation of cubs in their first year of life comes from lions and hyenas. Diseases such as feline mange and accidents also claim cubs in their early lives. Mating for leopards usually lasts over three days. Leopards are known to copulate hundreds of times during this period, and this stimulates the release of the egg in the female. It can be a very noisy affair; one might think the two cats are fighting! Socially, leopards are solitary except when breeding and with cubs. Males have larger home ranges than females. This range will include females that will most likely mate with the dominant area male. Females and males defend their ranges against other same-sex cats encroaching into their home ranges. Stray males will attack and kill cubs if given the chance. So much of what is happening in the natural world today is affecting the chances of wild leopards surviving. The main threats for these beautiful cats are human and animal conflict, demand for their skins, body parts and also loss of habitat. If future generations still want to see this beautiful species of cat, a lot will need to be done to secure their future. I conducted a study in Matobo, and the results obtained showed that leopards in that particular area preyed on two Hyrax species, young of all antelope, zebra foals, bush Breeding p愀琀t攀爀ns t pigs and warthog. The largest prey I have recorded killed by a very large male leopard was of a 2-3year old kudu bull with an estimated weight of 200kg! Where there is little or no wildlife, domestic stock can be taken. Predation cases on people in Zimbabwe are rarely recorded.

www.nzira.co.zw Issue 16 33

34 Issue 16 NZiRA Travel Zimbabwe he off beaten paths in Africa have often led to exhilarating places and some of the most spectacular scenery in the world. The more I travel in Africa the more I yearn to discover new wild, remote and untouched areas. Emerging from a period of uncertainty for tourists, Zimbabwe is one of the most underrated countries that Africa has to offer and its national parks are amongst the finest; offering something special with a real remote and unspoiled feel about them. Gonarezhou National Park is scenic and full of rugged and interesting landscapes. Owing to its vast size, its rough terrain and location away from the main tourist routes, large tracts of Gonarezhou remain as unspoiled wilderness. Gonarezhou is the Shona word which translates as “Place of Many Elephants” and its herds are famous and well protected in the wild sanctuary which boasts an area of 5,053 km². I travelled with long-time friends on a 10-day safari to explore both the southern and northern sections of the Park. As facilities are limited and roads rough, we set off to enjoy a wild camping adventure with fully self-sufficient 4x4 vehicles, tents, water, medical supplies and all our provisions. From Johannesburg, we travelled to the most northern part of Kruger National Park. An overnight at Pafuri Gate camp allowed us to cross the border very early. We had no idea of the conditions of the rough, deep sand roads or what the water levels of the rivers would be, especially the drive across the Limpopo River which is the border between South Africa and Mozambique. After the South African border, we moved into Mozambique and would eventually cross into Zimbabwe. T 34 Issue 16 NZiRA Travel Zimbabwe Wild and Untamed A True Remnant of the Africa of Old Article and Images Diane McLeish

www.nzira.co.zw Issue 16 35 After four hours of soft sand-driving and two river crossings we made our way through Mozambique and arrived at the border town of Chicualacuala. This small town was fascinating with its Portuguese built railway station boasting decorative ceramic tiles from the time when Mozambique was a Portuguese colony. We topped up our supplies to support the local community and headed across the Sango border post into Zimbabwe. There are other less challenging ways to enter the park, depending on where you are travelling from. From Harare, the northern entry gate and headquarters are at Chipinda. The southern headquarters, Mabalauta, can also be reached from the Beitbridge border. For decades Gonarezhou was considered too remote and virtually inaccessible to tourists and numerous animals had been shot out by hunters and poachers. Today the Park is managed entirely by the Gonarezhou Conservation Trust using a model agreed upon by the Zimbabwe Parks and Wildlife Authority and the Frankfurt Zoological Society, resulting in the park being very successfully co-managed. Conservation is alive in Gonarezhou and it is a sublime success story. Wildlife numbers are booming, however, the elephants are still very nervous; at times aggressive and wary of people, which is not surprising given the years they endured being hunted, culled and poached. The park has 89 larger and 61 smaller animals. Predators include lion, leopard, cheetah (including the rare king cheetah), spotted and brown hyena and packs of African wild dog. There are also buffalos, giraffes and a range of antelope including kudu, bushbuck, steenbok, nyala, suni, waterbuck and eland. The Park has three main rivers, Mwenenzi, Save and Runde, and these are home to a wide variety of fish and waterbased animals like hippos and crocodiles. Cheerful and helpful Zimbabwe Parks staff impressed us; a detailed map and firewood were available at the reception as no firewood is allowed to be collected within the park. Although all the main roads are gravel there were signs of continual road maintenance to stop subsidence or wash-aways during the rainy season. With no cell phones to distract us, we soon settled into the routine of the bush, climbing into our tents when we felt tired and rising with the first calls of the birds before sunrise. “Come look, two large lions visited us last night and left footprints right through the camp” one of our group members called triumphantly early one morning. Although the thought of large lions eyeing our fireside group sent shivers down my spine, the thrill of being in blissful isolation on the water edge of a rustic campsite was exhilarating. I was pleasantly surprised at the work that had been done at all the remote campsites in providing well prepared elephant-proof long drop toilets. This meant that there was no litter lying around anywhere. It was at these remote places that we enjoyed wild camping, glorious sunsets and then settled in to enjoy the mysterious sounds of the bush that washed over the campsite every night. www.nzira.co.zw Issue 16 35

36 Issue 16 NZiRA Travel Zimbabwe As dusk fell each night, we set up a campfire and shared the meal preparation with the delightful smells of cooking drifting through the night air. We sat in a small circle facing the glowing coals of the fire, our backs to the unknown, reminiscing. Breathtaking stars, more delicious food and an early night saw us through to another early wake-up call. This time, just before dawn, one person from our group spotted three lionesses on the sandbank very close to our camp. As the huge sunburst across the horizon, the lionesses watched us with keen interest and had been there a short while. When the warm breeze rustled the trees they sauntered up the bank towards our camp then turned and moved purposely, self-assured and utterly focused into the long grass and away from us. Good strong coffee was needed by all after that exciting encounter and we counted ourselves lucky that such wild places still existed. The Chilojo Cliffs are a major drawcard and also the most photographed feature of Gonarezhou National Park. It is a dramatic sandstone ridge that is approximately 20 km long and 200 m above the wide Runde River. The red and white banded sandstone cliffs seem to change to cream, pink and terracotta with the glow of sunset. The most marvellous of landscapes opened before us as we looked out over the top of the cliffs and down into the gorge. The vastness and magnitude of the place was spectacular and there was not another vehicle around. From the top, we saw elephants making their way down the steep gorge to drink from the river below and I heard that this has happened every evening for hundreds of years. Few truly wild places in Africa remain unspoiled by mass tourism and Gonarezhou National Park is one such special place. The sights, smells and level of remoteness gave us a feeling of exclusivity and allowed us to appreciate a part of wild and unscathed Africa. Access to the park is limited during the rainy season, end of November to April, and most of the campsites are closed because the river crossings needed to reach them are impassable. Treat yourself and explore this remote, rugged and astonishingly beautiful place as it will, without doubt, impress and inspire you. Driving around Gonarezhou was exciting with several water crossings, soft sand navigating and at times encounters with large herds of nervous elephant. We sat for ages, with car engines off, taking in the earthy scent of the elephants and watching the family interactions of these gentle giants. A suckling baby, the young males who enjoyed a playful sand bath and the large male with his gentle, amber eyes who kept a careful, watchful eye on us. Just spending time looking at the folds of their skin was mesmerising. Sometimes we had to back off and reverse back the way we had come as they were too skittish for us to pass, even if very slowly. Ears that flapped and loud trumpeting were enough of a warning for us to move on. Bird viewing in the park is magnificent with over 400 species recorded. If you are a keen birder then the best sightings are to be had from November to April when many of the migratory species make their way south during the European winter. At the pan near the confluence of the two major perennial rivers, the Save and Runde, the birdlife is incomparable. The landscape is as varied as the wildlife: from massive baobabs to sandy forests of ironwood with floodplains and pans to vast Mopane forests and large areas of Sandveld woodland. The hundreds of giant, ancient, baobabs made a lasting impression and it was evident that the elephants loved them too. Unfortunately, a lot of damage has been done to these beautiful giant baobabs and many are severely mutilated. The Gonarezhou Conservation Trust started a project aimed at protecting the baobabs in the most iconic areas and where pressure seemed the highest. To date, several trees have received some kind of protection by either placing sharp stones around the trees or covering the damaged trunks with mesh wire. After long, hot and dusty days of driving, I enjoyed the sensation of the cool, refreshing bush showers from our simple shower bag. Useful Information I The Chilojo Cliffs are a major drawcard and also the most photographed feature of Gonarezhou National Park.

www.nzira.co.zw Issue 16 37

38 Issue 16 NZiRA Travel Zimbabwe C漀渀s攀爀v愀琀i漀渀 Images Bad Rabbit Studio

www.nzira.co.zw Issue 16 39 T Q & As NN: What is Gonarezhou Conservation Trust? SC: Essentially the GCT is an entity that is mandated to develop and manage the Gonarezhou National Park. It is comprised of a Board of Trustees, equally represented by ZPWMA and FZS, and the staff on the ground in Gonarezhou. ZPWMA and FZS have a long history of working together, and the Trust was formed on the basis of this successful relationship to enhance the effectiveness of the partnership in Gonarezhou. NN: What are the broader plans for Gonarezhou, we hear a lot of stories about development in the park and growth in tourism but what are the longer term plans? SC: If we talk about long term plans for Gonarezhou, our focus is on ensuring that this special wilderness area, its ecosystems, and the services it provides are protected for future generations. So our focus is really on how to make Gonarezhou National Park self-sustainable from a conservation perspective. We have come up with a strategy that is based on five C’s – Conservation, Community, Connectivity, Commercial and Corporate Governance. NN: Can you give us more details on your latest initiatives? SC: I will respond to this question in 3 parts that is, Tourism, Conservation and Community development. So firstly with regards to tourism, we have been expanding our tourism offering in the Park, specifically upgrading some of the tourist facilities and have built three new camps in the Park which we call our Mananga Camps. Mananga means “a place in the wilderness” and these camps are generally off the beaten track and designed to be as low impact as possible. We use reclaimed materials, the structures and construction have very close links with traditional culture. In addition, the camps are built almost entirely by ladies from the local communities around the Park, they have then been trained and now are employed as attendants in the camps. he fauna in Gonarezhou National Park has been susceptible to the brutality of poachers over the past years. However, in 2017 an innovative conservation partnership aimed at curbing this challenge was formed. The Gonarezhou Conservation Trust (GCT) was drawn up between Zimbabwe Parks and Wildlife Management Authority (ZPWMA) whose mandate is to protect and manage the wildlife of Zimbabwe and the Frankfurt Zoological Society (FZS) an international conservation organization based in Germany. This partnership was established to enhance investment that would significantly contribute to the long term sustainability of the iconic national park. The NZiRA team (NN) had the opportunity to interview Simon Capon (SC), a manager of the GCT and he clearly outlined how this partnership came into existence and the significant role it has played in the sustainability and development of the park. We regard these as the pillars of the Trust, each recognised independently but being critically interdependent, so the work we do in the Park is focused on these five C’s and the long term sustainability of Gonarezhou.

40 Issue 16 NZiRA Travel Zimbabwe It was really an attempt at three things – the first being to design a camp that had low impact as possible, secondly to develop tourism infrastructure that would appeal to a broader market (not just hard-core campers) and lastly, a tourism model that provides a direct and sustainable link with our communities around the Gonarezhou. On the conservation front, we have really bolstered the anti-poaching team in Gonarezhou. In 2019, we had the lowest levels of poaching in the Park since the partnership was established. In addition, we have just completed the Nkwagulatilo Causeway, a 340-meter-long causeway across the Runde River in the Park. It will allow our resource protection team, management and tourists to have access across the river for most of the year. Previously, access to the south side of the Runde River was limited from November to May, so this is a game changer for both the conservation and protection of the Park but also for the future of tourism. Lastly, on the community development side, we have made a specific focus to employ people from the communities around the Park. Right now about 84% of our workforce comes from communities directly adjacent to the Gonarezhou National Park. In addition to this, we have established partnerships with other organisations and with local the government around the Park to work on finding solutions to Human-Wildlife Conflict and where we can, support livelihood programs outside of the Gonarezhou. NN: These initiatives sound exciting and I am sure will contribute positively to Gonarezhou but we often hear about the overpopulation of elephants. Can you comment on that? SC: Well Gonarezhou National Park has one of the highest densities of elephants in Africa. We currently have a population estimated at around 11,000 which equates to more than two elephants per square kilometre. Past studies have suggested an elephant carrying capacity of well below this but we would hesitate to say that it is a binary answer and that we definitely have an overpopulation of elephants.

www.nzira.co.zw Issue 16 41 It must be kept in mind that the goal is biodiversity conservation, so if, even at the level of elephant populations we have in Gonarezhou, biodiversity is still being maintained or even enhanced, then it would be difficult to say that we have an overpopulation of elephant. We can not answer this question definitively right now unfortunately but it is one of the focus areas of research and work over the next few years. We think the key is going to be how we can protect adequate space for elephants and allow them to utilise more of the landscape within the Great Limpopo Transfrontier Park, thus reducing the pressure on Gonarezhou alone. NN: Some people say elephants in Gonarezhou are cheeky, is this true and how are visitors supposed to respond when faced with an elephant which looks like it will charge? SC: Well, I would hesitate to say they are cheeky but I would say they are certainly not as relaxed as you may find in National Parks like Mana Pools. We must remember that these elephants went through some difficult periods in the Park and in fact, had very little contact with tourists, and to a large extent still do encounter very few tourists. This is changing, and it is remarkable to see the changes in behaviour of the elephants, particularly the older bulls.

42 Issue 16 NZiRA Travel Zimbabwe The main thing is that each encounter with an elephant in Gonarezhou is an opportunity to reinforce positive behaviour in the elephants and their interactions with us. The key is to give the elephants some space, don’t try and get too close to them as this is only likely to exacerbate the situation. Also make sure you have checked out an escape route, so in the unlikely event that the elephant does come, you have a plan to move away. If you feel comfortable enough and there is enough space between you and the elephants, you could turn off your engine and invariably you will see them calm down immediately. Obviously, if you feel threatened it is best to move away from the elephants but try not to race past, hoot or rev your vehicle as this is likely to reinforce the uneasiness of the elephants towards vehicles. I know we do not always have the time but sometimes it is just nice to sit at a distance from them and let them pass by on their own accord and then move on – it does require some patience though! NN: Are there any little anecdotes or stories of Gonarezhou that could be interesting to readers? SC: There are many anecdotes or stories about Gonarezhou, from the origin of the name, the dhow rings near the junction to the infamous Shadreck’s office near Tembwahata Pan. Perhaps one of the stories that is relevant in talking about elephants is the story of an old elephant bull called Dhulamithi, whose name means “the one who is taller than the trees”. He was apparently a legendary bull with tusks that would touch the ground when he rested. He is said to have roamed the park in the 1920’s and to have spent time moving between Gonarezhou and areas of the now Bahnine National Park in Mozambique. He regularly frequented an area in front of the Chilojo Cliffs each year, meeting up with other herds of elephant. The story mentions that he was once almost killed by the infamous hunter Bvekenya Barnard and that after carefully stalking up to Dhulamithi, he was so gripped by his presence that he was unable to shoot, and ultimately they both went their separate ways. So it is interesting to think that we likely still have some of Dhulamithi’s descendants roaming the Gonarezhou today, and when you do bump into one of these awe inspiring tuskers that are still around, you can think back to what it was like when a legend like Dhulamithi used to roam the Park. Lastly, we cannot have an interview without asking how the Covid-19 pandemic has affected Gonarezhou? Of course, it seems to be the only topic around and for a good reason. The pandemic has had a major impact on us in the Park. It has halted international tourism altogether, which has affected our bottom line. Unfortunately, just because tourism stops, it does not mean conservation can stop. For Gonarezhou, tourism revenue is part of the most important funds we receive. With the current situation, tourism revenue makes up a relatively small portion of the total cost of running the Park and this is not sustainable. The bulk of the funding needs to be sourced from donors or other conservation partners. Whilst we can get by for now (thanks to the support of some committed and generous donors) we need to ensure that Gonarezhou can become less dependent on donor funding and ultimately, develop systems for financial self-sustainability. Covid-19 has interfered with our plans on this front. Despite generally having significantly low income in the recent years, the local market helped us pull through in 2020. At Gonarezhou, we have always celebrated the importance of the local and regional markets, and this pandemic has strongly highlighted the markets’ significance to our income. We are grateful to those people who supported us during these uncertain times and to those who kept some of the lights on for Gonarezhou – we just look forward to welcoming everyone back this year once it is safe to do so. Thanks so much for talking to us. One last thing, if people want to come to Gonarezhou, what do you suggest? You can get in touch with our park reservations office. Clemence and his team are ready to help you plan your adventure into the Gonarezhou Wilderness. Whether it be your own camping trip or coming on safari with one of our operators in and around the Park, they can assist. The best way to get in touch with them is either via email on [email protected] or over the phone or WhatsApp +263 779 788 811.

44 Issue 16 NZiRA Travel Zimbabwe inding through rocky, rough roads, splashing through muddy puddles, cruising in and out without being stuck, or needing a push is exactly what the NZiRA team experienced as they drove the new Isuzu D-Max while exploring the Lake Chivero game park. It is not every day you have a chance to test drive a vehicle and also write a review on its performance and capabilities. Its performance shines through when driven off-road because it is surprisingly easy and fun to drive in almost any situation. An interesting feature of the D-Max is its keyless aspect, all one needs to start the car is to press the drive button. Arriving at our destination, we signed into the game park and met Tonderai, our guide for the day. Starting our game drive adventure, we spotted a herd of impala running carefree in the bush. The seats in the car were high, which allowed us to view the animals from a distance as we could see zebras and warthogs far off. One of our favourite encounters was seeing a tower of giraffes, they looked unbothered, grazing the top leaves while the calves ran along the paths. Off-roading is challenging to non-experienced drivers, but the Isuzu D-Max comes with driver-assist features such as hill descent control which makes it easier to go down steep hills and traction control for slippery roads. With the current heavy rains, driving through the wilderness would normally be difficult, not for the Isuzu D-Max which moved with ease as if we were driving on a highway. To fully experiment its capabilities, we dived into a muddy puddle and drove through it with thrilling ease that left us excited and screaming for joy. The midday sun was blazing and the air conditioning system came as a welcome relief. We arrived at the Bushman rock point and saw different cave paintings that illustrated the presence of elephants and lions once found within the game park. Here we also saw a variety of small wildlife, from monkeys, to even one of the famous small 5, the rolling beetle. After driving for a while, we took a scenic river route where we could see the beauty and breathtaking view of Lake Chivero close up. The grand finale to a memorable game drive was a rhino sighting. The rhino moved casually as if it knew it was time to strike a pose for us to take more vivid and close up pictures. We were all left in awe and it was a moment we continually spoke of as we made our way back to the city. The vehicle strikes the perfect balance between a lifestyle vehicle and a workhorse. Comfortable and smooth on bumpy roads with a bonus of a double cab, it means one can put their luggage in the load tray to make more space for the passengers. w Off-road EXPERIENCE Article Michelle Matswayi & Juliet Mashiri Images Juliet Mashiri

www.nzira.co.zw Issue 16 45 n one scorching hot Saturday morning we spontaneously, decided to do something out of the ordinary and we eventually settled for a road trip towards the Mutare side. We set out on the road, cooler bags packed and the excitement in the car was palpable. As we drove out of Marondera, to my surprise, the scenery began to change to green and lush with the umbrella trees dangling over the roadside creating that dappled shade that we all know so well. Following the winding roads over Christmas Pass, we reached the house perched on the hill that overlooked Mutare town just as the sun started to retreat behind the hills with the towns’ lights sparkling glamorously. It was an early start the next morning as we decided to head towards Chimanimani for a little bit of adventure. Along the way, goats and cattle crossing the road at their leisure halted us, forcing us to wait patiently as they waltzed by. This brought about a lot of fond memories of my childhood days. The views were breathtaking; the mountains in the distance were covered with a blue/grey haze which contrasted beautifully with the lovely green grass on the ground nearby. The twisted roads meant cautious driving, which allowed us to take in as much of the view as possible. As the day went on, the temperatures became unbearable and all we could think about was a place to cool down. We came across a river that was flowing continuously with small but steady rapids. It was the perfect place to take a much-needed dip in the shallow pools amongst the large boulders. Since the midday sun heated the rocks by the stream, this resulted in the water being warmer than we expected. Soon after the refreshing dip, we set off to find somewhere to eat lunch, to our delight we noticed a sign that read “Chimanimani Hotel”. We followed the route to the hotel and we were greeted by a very friendly young lady at the reception who then directed us to this lovely spot outside by the patio overlooking the front garden. We had the opportunity to tour the hotel, “Chimanimani Hotel” just screams with historic value in its infrastructure. From the external structure to the old stone fireplaces inside the common rooms which leaves a nostalgic feeling. The carpeting was original and its character resonated with the age of the hotel itself. After lunch, we took a slow drive back to Mutare where we could continue to take in the views. An early night set in for us after the weary day of driving before we returned to Harare the following morning feeling refreshed and capable to handle what the busy week might bring. A Weekend O Road Trip Article & Images Hannah Rhodes

46 Issue 16 NZiRA Travel Zimbabwe Nyanga National park Nyanga National is situated in the most scenic areas of Zimbabwe’s Eastern Highlands. Attractions • Mount Nyangani which is the highest mountain in Zimbabwe. (2 593 m) • Mutarazi Waterfall ( the highest water fall in Zimbabwe second highest in Africa) • Nyangombe falls and Nyamuziwa falls • Pungwe gorge and falls • Nyangombe natural pool • Trout hatcheries • Archaeological and historical sites (Chaomera fort and pit structures) Activities • Mountain Hiking • Fly fishing at Mare dam, Purdon dam, Gulliver dam and Bream fishing at Udu dam • Canoeing • Game viewing • Scenic Viewing • Guided tours/walks using own vehicle • Swimming • Volleyball • Sky walk and Zipline Accommodation Self-catering family lodges. The lodges are endowed with fabulous self -catering facilities all contained with a refrigerator, stove and cooking utensils. Camping and Caravan sites All the sites are electrified and are serviced. All campers to bring their own camping equipment. Vumba Botanical Gardens The well- wooded Park includes 159 hectares of landscaped gardens built around perennial streams which form a small lake. Sheltered walks between indigenous fern trees lead to displays of banked hydrangeas, proteas, azaleas, begonias, lilies, aloes, fuchsias, cycads and many more species. There is a network of footpaths that enable visitors to explore the interior of the garden. There is a superb collection of both winter and summer flowering varieties for the visitors’ enjoyment during the appropriate season. Attractions • Endemic plants • Samango monkeys • Tea garden • Flower nursery • Several species of birds Activities • Bird watching • Walking trails • Scenic viewing • Bream fishing (catch and release) Accommodation Family self-catering lodges. Camping and Caravan sites The Camping and Caravan sites are available with beautiful panoramic views. Communal ablution blocks with cold and hot water and electricity at each site is available. Osborne Dam Recreational Park This is the largest inland lake in Manicaland and part of the major in-land lakes in Zimbabwe. The lake covers about 2,600 hectares of land with a carrying capacity of over 400 million cubic metres of water and it is over 6 km wide and 66 m deep. Attractions • Osborne Dam • Game viewing Activities • Base fishing • Bream Fishing • Boating • Game viewing ( own vehicle) Accommodation • Self- catering family lodges • Camping sites • Picnic sites Chimanimani National Park Chimanimani National Park is found in an area of rugged mountain grandeur, enhanced by many spectacular gorges and high peaks rising to 2436 m. There are several streams cascading through the mountain formations and numerous mountain springs. Attractions • Bridal Veil Falls • Rock paintings • Mahowa Falls • Caves • Chimanimani mountains Activities • Scenic viewing • Bird watching • Mountain Hiking • Walking Trails • Cave exploration • Game viewing. Accommodation • Mountain Hut • Caves • Camping sites • Picnic sites Image: Rudo Nhamoinesu Eastern Highlands All about the www.zimparks.org.zw

www.nzira.co.zw Issue 16 47 R O M E L DA PRIVATE-USE SELF CATERING TENTED LODGE Enjoy the peace and tranquility of Lake Kyle with exclusive use of Romelda Lakeside Retreat. Known for the beautiful landscapes, excellent game viewing, birdwatching and bass 昀椀shing. Come and explore the historical Great Zimbabwe Ruins and bushman rock paintings which are just a short drive from the lodge. With 6 fully equipped en-suite tents the lodge can sleep between 10 to 14 adults and children comfortably. The lodge is serviced with a housekeeper, a chef to assist with meal prep and someone to help with your boat, 昀椀shing, car or coolerbox needs. [email protected] www.romeldaretreat.com Romelda Lakeside Retreat @romelda_retreat Untamed Wildlife The Home of Mana Pools FOR BOOKINGS AND ENQUIRIES CONTACT THE FOLLOWING: Samuel George [email protected] +263 773257731 Christine Mhuriro [email protected] +263 772432148

48 Issue 16 NZiRA Travel Zimbabwe The Adventurous Ones! Monday morning was the start of our new adventure, beginning with a three-hour drive from the farm to Imire Game Park, in Marondera. There is always great excitement in the home before we head off on a new adventure! On arrival, we were given a very warm welcome, along with some lovely refreshments by the staff at Imire. The main lodge gardens were an inviting place to relax and stretch our legs. It did not take long for the children to spot a few animals around the lodge and to find good trees to climb. Lunchtime soon arrived and so did the monkeys… Such opportunists they are! The Black Rhino Interaction. Imire provided us with a game guide and vehicle, so our first activity was an afternoon game drive. We saw many animals on our drive and were particularly excited when we spotted black rhinos! Oh, what an awesome treat -and we had so much fun interacting, up close, with the two black rhinos. This truly was an unbelievable encounter for both adults and children alike. Imire Chiwawe Luxury Tented Camp. Once our friends arrived, we proceeded for a thirty-minute game drive to the Chiwawe tented camp. The camp was a tranquil place, with individual tented rooms. Huge enthusiasm filled the children as they set off choosing rooms and scanning the camp. The main dining and lounge area had a stunning view over a water hole, with a giraffe and lone ostrich in the distance. This selfcatering camp is spacious and comfortable, it accommodates twelve people. We were also most fortunate to have three members of staff to assist us. ParkArticle & Images Ashleigh Whaley Game Our Amazing Educational Experience 48 Issue 16 NZiRA Travel Zimbabwe

www.nzira.co.zw Issue 16 49 The Nature Game Walk. The next morning began with an early morning game walk from the camp where Trymore, our guide, educated us on what to scout for in the bush. We identified the game spore and quietly looked for white rhinos. The children enjoyed looking and learning about the bush, whilst being escorted by two armed guides. The Python. After a huge, leisurely breakfast we headed off to see more game. The first stop was at an anthill which accommodates an enormous python. We soon spotted the python, sunning itself by the hole. A truly rare experience and so very exciting! I dislike snakes so, I looked on from a very safe distance. The drive continued to where we saw giraffes, zebras, some antelopes; sable, blesbok and nyala. Trymore continued to educate us all about each animal species. As the animals came up close to the vehicle, we could observe and learn a great deal about them. It was a wonderful educational experience, especially being able to see the differences between the males and females of each species. The Elephant Encounter. The highlight of the drive was the elephant encounter. This was spectacular! We all got to feed an extremely large elephant, named Mark. We gave him game cubes and then watched him perform terrific tricks. The fact that Mark knew commands in English and Shona was intriguing. Maybe homeschooling an elephant could be easier than children! The Kopje Climb. Back at camp, we enjoyed a late lunch, whilst several animals came down to drink at the water hole. During the afternoon game drive, we visited a lion, followed by seeing an elephant who thinks he’s a buffalo! The exhilarating day ended with a sunset climb, with the aid of steel ladders up to the top of a kopje (small hill made of balancing rocks). Later that evening we spotted some giraffe, as they wandered around our tents eating leaves off the trees. Such quiet, gentle giants they are! The White Rhino. Our last morning began with another bush nature walk, followed by observing the white rhinos coming to the camp water hole for their morning drink. One of the white rhinos liked to walk amongst the cattle herd, which made it a very strange sight! Being able to pat a rhino is certainly something everyone should have on their bucket list. We ended the drive with a sunset drink at a viewing platform, overlooking a dam. Conclusion. All in all, it was a sensational trip, with lovely accommodation and an excellent game guide. This made our two days on safari most memorable. We shall certainly be back for more fun and wild animal interaction! “By faith we understand that the universe was formed at God’s command….” Hebrews 11:3.

50 Issue 16 NZiRA Travel Zimbabwe Local Artist I Ricky Dampers a talented local artist born on the 20th of February 1997 in Harare, Zimbabwe shares his art journey with the NZiRA team. 50 Issue 16 NZiRA Travel Zimbabwe