Nzira Issue 21

www.nzira.co.zw Issue 21 1 Travel Zimbabwe www.nzira.co.zw Issue 21 | 2022 Wellness Tourism Unpacked Take Your Healthiest Safari Yet: US$5 A Magical Mana Escape Chikwenya Camp

2 Issue 21 NZiRA Travel Zimbabwe FOR RESERVATIONS: Call: +263 292 244 243 - 7 App:+263 788 671 500 Follow us Ts & Cs Apply 5 Day Inclusive Package 2 Adults USD925 2 Adults & 1 Child USD1100 2 Adult & 2 Children USD1350 Offer valid until 31 January 2023, subject to availabilty Free Airport Transfer Free Breakfast, Dinner & One Local Beverage GRANDE CAPE TOWN GLOW UP IN CRESTA GRANDE CAPE TOWN Package covers: 3 Day Cape Town Unlimited Mega Pass Table Mountain Aerial Cableway Return Ticket V & A Harbour & Seal Cruise Cape Wheel World of Birds Two Oceans Aquarium Groot Constantia Wine Tasting & Estate Tour V & A Adventure Park Playdate Kirtenbotch Botanic Garden City Tour

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4 Issue 21 NZiRA Travel Zimbabwe Contents Chikwenya Camp - A Magical Mana Escape The Kapenta Fender Bender 4x4 Challenge The Kapenta Fender Bender 4x4 Challenge Landscape Artist – Barry Thomas Together We Stand - Black Rhino Conservation in Zimbabwe The Zimbabwe Professional Guides Association Tuksouth - Around the World in a Tuk Tuk 9 45 43 32 40 23 13

www.nzira.co.zw Issue 21 5 CONTENTS Jamie Tyrell - Wildlife Photographer Ingwe Pan Camp – The Inland Paradise Hideaways Mana Pools Safari Lodge Take Your Healthiest Safari Yet - Wellness Tourism Unpacked 24 28 35 18

www.nzira.co.zw Issue 21 7 PUBLISHER Mike Garden [email protected] +263 772 209 162 EDITORIAL & ADVERTISING Rudo Nhamoinesu [email protected] Tel: 024 2782720 DESIGN AND LAYOUT Tamuka Nyoni [email protected] +263 775 363 706 DISCLAIMER Whilst every effort is made to check the content of any article, the directors will not be held responsible for any errors or omissions in such articles. We accept that all articles and photographs sent to us are the sole responsibility of the authors and we do not accept liability for any misrepresentation. Events listed, the dates thereof, and prices are printed using information supplied to us that we are satisfied are correct at the time of printing. Nzira publication is the exclusive property of Ndeipi (Pvt) Ltd Media Use the QR code to visit our website for more articles. Contact us for subscriptions 024 2782720 PRINTER InfoNzira nziramagazine Nzira From the Editor Rudo Nhamoinesu. Paragon Printing and Packaging 17035 Cedora Road, Graniteside, Harare Tel: 024-2773021/7 Email: [email protected] h, Spring! A season full of warmth, light, and an opportunity to start over in a perfectly decorated natural world, surrounded by fragrant scents and flowers in full bloom! A time of renewed spirits and adventure, when we step out to breathe, basking in the sun while admiring the beautiful blue skies that make each day memorable! We have since replaced our winter coats with more lightweight colourful clothing to fit this time of the year. In the Southern Hemisphere where we call home, there is an explosion of colour as wildflowers and flowers in our gardens have blossomed, and the skies have been graced by the migratory birds making it a birders paradise. An optimum season in the travel industry, a great time to be on safari when the vegetation in many Parks around the country has dried out, and waterholes frequented by more and more animals in search of water and nutritional grasses, making this a perfect time for wildlife spotting. An exploration of the bush EDITOR’S NOTE on foot or in a game vehicle is filled with excitement and anticipation of a lion kill! This is also Game Count season organised by Wildlife & Environment Zimbabwe that takes place in the Hwange and Gonarezhou National Parks. Anyone can participate in this great initiative to collect wildlife and environment data. In this issue, we are delighted to share with you our journey to different camps in the Mana Pools National Park, Kerri O’Fee of Victoria Falls Yoga educates us on Wellness Tourism, and the four adventurers known as Tuksouth take us along as they raise funds for rangers through their TukTuk journey around the world! Conservation is important to us at Nzira, and Natasha Anderson gives insight into Black Rhino conservation. As with each issue, we have prepared this in the hope that with every page turn you may feel inspired, informed, and motivated to travel or make a difference! We cannot wait to hear about all your adventures this season. From myself and the team, I wish you an enjoyable Spring. “Spring won’t let me stay in this house any longer! I must get out and breathe the air deeply again.” —Gustav Mahler Travel Zimbabwe © James Tyrell Cover Image by: Shaun Read

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www.nzira.co.zw Issue 21 9 MANA POOLS here is something special about stepping away from our fast-paced city lives and embarking on a more remote and adventurous experience, for us this was through the gates of Mana Pools towards our final destination Chikwenya Camp, located on the Eastern Border of the National Park. We travelled in the early dry season, a time when the vegetation began to change from thick greenery to a warm, rich, earthy pallet bursting with golden colours, bringing so much beauty to the Mopane woodland. With bushes thinning out, it is an ideal time for wildlife spotting. Chikwenya Camp under Wilderness Safaris is located on a private concession offering its guests the untamed beauty of Mana in a remote and exclusive setting with the only distractions being the animals that seem to shine brighter here! Come along with us as we take you through our stay Day 1- The Arrival As we turned into the camp, we were immediately struck by the stunning scenery- the Kahali mountain range, the Zambezi river, and the flood plains acting as a backdrop to the perfectly set up camp surrounded by the evergreen Natal Mahogany trees, its wide-spreading crown providing shade to the dining area. The biodiversity, wildlife, and the wonderful welcome from the team brought a sense of excitement, peace, and relaxation; at this point, we were ready to kick off our shoes and revel in the landscape! There is a perfect balance of adventure and comfort, and this is shown through the design of the camp’s main area which offers a lounge, dining, and bar as well as a viewing deck and pool all with a remarkable panoramic view. The décor of the camp main area adds to the grandeur already provided by its surroundings, the combination of nudes, leather, and different textured wood under thatch roofing offer sophistication and contemporary design. Chikwenya offers a private wilderness escape on a custom-designed journey, this is to allow guests to have a personalised safari experience. During our check-In we were introduced to Cosmos who was to be our Pro Guide for the duration of our stay, his responsibility was to help us discover the bush in ways that we enjoyed and at our own pace. The location of Chikwenya Camp and its accessibility to the Zambezi river means that it is one of the very few camps in Mana Pools that offer water-based activities and having been on the road all morning we could not help but pick a boat cruise cum fishing trip as our first activity! This phenomenal tented camp has 7 canvas tents, and, of these, 2 are family rooms with incredible views of the vast flood plains and the Zambezi river. The rooms embody an old safari romance and each detail within these has been prepared with the guest’s needs in mind. As you open up the door, a world of opulence, elegance, and sophistication is revealed. The rooms reflect a contemporary afro-chic look that speaks luxury and so do its amenities! Each aspect has been well thought out and placed strategically, from the extra length king size bed that offers comfortable and restful sleep, to the seating area that is great for reading to the lavish bathroom that gives you the option of an indoor or outdoor shower that makes the most of the luring landscapes in the wild outdoors allowing you to get lost in nature! If you are anything like me, you will swoon over the grand spacious bathtub within the room that promises a soothing soak as you watch the wildlife go past your room or the sun come up adding that extra romance to your stay! The room extends out to a private deck area that affords you privacy, sitting or lying out here makes for an exceptionally relaxed safari day, it is also a great viewpoint. The A Magical Mana Escape Chikwenya Camp T Article | Rudo Nhamoinesu Images | Wilderness Safaris & Rudo Nhamoinesu

10 Issue 21 NZiRA Travel Zimbabwe rooms have been designed in a Zen-like manner, they allow you to relax, renew and refresh without missing out on the action! After settling in, and enjoying a scrumptious high tea under the Albida trees, we were off on our first adventurean afternoon fishing excursion on the Zambezi River. The river is a mere 10-minute drive from camp, with pristine river frontage, this comes with a great sense of peace and tranquility. I’m sure as you can agree there are a few things more relaxing than being on the water! Upon arrival at the docking site, our boat had already been stocked and prepared, what was left for us to do was jump on and prepare for an afternoon of adventure! Cosmos took us to areas off the beaten track and we discovered pools that were great casting spots. As we drifted along the scenic Zambezi river, drinks in hand, Elephants crossing and crocodiles lying along the banks and we thought how incredibly special this place was. The beauty of Chikwenya camp is that the only other boats you will run into are those with other Chikwenya guests. You truly feel as though the Zambezi is all yours! After having caught 1 tiger fish (we were happy about this!), we decided to find a beautiful spot for sundowners before slowly heading to camp. As the day softened into the evening, we sat quietly listening to the trumpeting of the Elephants and the grunting of the hippos who would occasionally lift their heads, and the lazy crocodiles heading back into the water. Seeing the transformation of the gorgeous colours and their reflection on the water just reminded us how lucky we are to be in Zimbabwe and experiencing this very moment! After a long but fulfilling day, we were ready to end our day with a bush dinner under the stars. The crisp cool

www.nzira.co.zw Issue 21 11 MANA POOLS evening stars out in full force, tables set, lanterns lit and stories of the day well lived set the tone for a wonderful romantic evening after a day of safari. The staff was always attentive, they knew when to fill up the wine glass or offer another drink and the delicious food prepared by their world-class chef brought everything together. Day 2- Sunrise to Noon Sunrises in Africa are said to be the best and I couldn’t agree more, waking up to the different animal calls and elephants grazing a few metres from the room. Our day started early with a 5:30 am wake-up call, and after soaking in the luxuriating bath, we were ready to head out to breakfast and then on a half-day game drive. Our guide took us to Chikwenya island, an island created when the Kariba dam wall was constructed. The highlight of our drive was seeing the resident lion and lioness lying by the side of the road unbothered by our presence. Our guide’s passion for the bush shined through the knowledge that he shared, we learnt so much about the vegetation, the birds of the area, and our new favouritethe Bob Marley tree or Yogasiyana. Drives with an expert guide make you realise that apart from the game that surrounds us, there are even more interesting aspects to safari. Feeling ravenous upon our return to camp, lunch was quickly served most artistically! Presented to us on various boards, and freshly prepared by the expert chef, who again did not disappoint- the mouthwatering crumbed fish and pot pie had us wishing for seconds! After our lunch it was now time for a well-deserved siesta on our private deck, the bush I believe has a way of lulling one to sleep or inspiring you to read a page or two of your book. Our day continued with a 3 pm High Tea, with an assortment of scrumptious pastries, sweets, and our favourite beverage- Amarula iced coffee perfectly laid out! This was followed by our next activity, canoeing on the Zambezi River! Our guide Cosmos, a pro river guide, has canoed on this river many times and his knowledge of the river ensured our safety and also the discovery of wildlife from a different perspective. As we canoed down this unspoilt waterway, we had magnificent views of the landscape and wildlife, and this offered an incredible new perspective to safari. The elephants, hippos, and crocodiles did not disappoint, if you are a wildlife photographer you will get incredible shots here! Our canoe safari ended after an hour downstream, where we were then collected by a boat and began our slow sunset cruise back to camp. The birdlife in this area is prolific, although I’m not a birder we spotted a few fan favorite’s the Bohm spine tail, Rocket-tailed rollers, the Livingstone Flycatcher, Grey Heron, and many others. For our sundowners, a surprise setup was done by the team, in a secluded area of the concession overlooking the Zambezi river. A lovely fire was going, and with drinks flowing and snacks ravaged we couldn’t help but appreciate the majestic beauty of what was before us and the incredible team that had gone out of their way for us throughout our stay. Chikwenya has a way of melting your heart, it is in the people you meet, its location, the delicious food, and the perfect wildlife experience uninterrupted by any other camp or vehicle. This is a truly magical escape.

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www.nzira.co.zw Issue 21 13 ur travels through Africa have been characterised by confused passersby: Policemen gape, cyclists double take, and laughter and hilarity often follow our passing. You sometimes get the impression you are a world first and seriously, in places we are. Now you wouldn’t be too far off if you thought we were a traveling circus, but alas, we are but humble travellers. Well, not so humble and perhaps delusional instead. Why? Well for a start we are trying to go round the world. But far more ridiculous is our choice of vehicle. The land cruiser was tempting, but let’s be honest, boring. We wanted to do this properly, in a real off-roader, so naturally, we chose a tuktuk; with 3 wheels of pure, high-octane, driving experience. You may have some questions by now. So who are we?? Well, we are Tuk South. Four friends that were finding the monotony of a life in lockdown, soul-destroying. So we did the only obvious thing to us, buy two tuk-tuks Article | Ivo Horsey Images | Tuksouth and set off on an adventure. But I’m getting ahead of myself. So let’s wind this back. The year was 2020 and we were spread around the world like global peanut butter. Josh was locked down on a paradise island in Indonesia, Jasper was a successful sculptor in Kenya, Robbie was knocking down walls in Nanyuki and I was finishing up a Biology degree at the University Of Bristol. One year and half a pandemic later, three of the team were in Kenya. The final piece of the puzzle was extracting Josh from the sourdough soft living of Chester, England. Luckily, the adventurous O ALL AROUND AFRICA Tuksouth Around the World in a Tuk Tuk

14 Issue 21 NZiRA Travel Zimbabwe spirit runs strong and a simple phone call later, he was on a plane bound for the African continent. We had a plan, albeit a loose one. We would make videos on adventure travel in Kenya, upload these to Instagram and Tik Tok and become famous overnight. Next stop Sundance film festival. Sundance never called. But on our frequent forays into the African bush, we noticed something eerie, there were no tourists. The pandemic had cut this flow of humans to wild spaces in Kenya. Gone was this vital economic stream into these areas. Conversations with the guardians of these spaces, wildlife rangers, revealed a bitter truth. Salaries had been slashed. Subsistence poaching was skyrocketing and workloads had tripled. Communities were suffering and Kenya’s animals were taking the brunt. Only a thin green line, of men and women in uniform, stood in the way of the systematic removal of wildlife from the wild. We had to do something to help. The story was there, we just needed exposure. The answer to this conundrum came in the form of a tipsy Zimbabwean lady, who couldn’t wrap her head around the idea of Tik Tok. Tik Tok became Tuk Tuk. Every time… and lightbulb. Fast Forward 3 Months and we were on the precipice of the greatest adventure of our lives. We had pooled our savings and bought not just one, but two tuk-tuks. Now, these are city vehicles. We were planning on spending our lives in the bush. So we had done the prerequisite preparations. Roll cages had been replaced, skid plates made out of old oil drums, solar systems, and fold-out kitchens installed. They had been painted and slathered with sponsorship stickers and we thought they were ready enough. Had we changed any of the sensible things like suspension, tyres, fuel tanks, or engines? Well no. But did they look great? Absolutely. Next stop South Africa. Doubts crept in when we hit our first hill. To say we crawled up it is generous. 8hp engine thundering away in the back, 2 people pushing as if their life depended on it, 5kph on the speedo, and a cloud of diesel fumes following us. Jesus, this was gonna be tough. Luckily Princess Buttercup, our beloved tuk-tuk van, went on an extreme diet. This consisted of us throwing half of our stuff away. Problem semi-solved. We still push up hills.

www.nzira.co.zw Issue 21 15 driving two scooters, tricycles, motorbikes car things. Or as we call them tuk tuks. They are perfect and we wouldn’t trade them for a land cruiser any day. There is something beautiful about not having a window to wind up or doors for that matter. You are a part of your environment, whether you like it or not. You are forced to soak it all in. Subtle shifts in temperature, the bustle of a market, the taste of chapatis in the wind, or even the smell of rain on the dusty ground. This is the essence of travel that has been completely lost in the era of air-conditioning and Instagram. We feel blessed to have accidentally stumbled upon it. With 9 months under our belt, we are really getting into our groove and my word have we seen some things: Chased, arguably the largest elephant in the world, with nothing more than our tuk-tuk. Felt the tremblings of the earth’s core on the top of a volcano called the Mountain of God. Brushed shoulders with our closest relatives, the chimpanzee. From rescued pangolins to the frenzied dances of Malawian witch doctors, this trip has been so filled with beauty and wonder it becomes difficult to condense into print. However, Overlanding through Now about those doubts. Well, they disappeared. Fast. Growing up in Kenya, I have driven around a fair stretch, family trips or solo safaris, motorbikes, or cars, and the experience is the same. You are nothing new in Africa. Another face in the mindless fog of passers-by. But. Drive a tuk-tuk. My word. The journey is the joy. Hoots, laughter, smiles, lights flash, children holler, whistles fly and the world waves as you trundle very slowly by. Just like that the worries of the last 5 months melted away. This was travel at its absolute best. There was nothing special about us, just 4 guys frothing on life. The magic lay in the charm of Princess Buttercup and Sporty Boi. They were, and still are, the perfect wingman for an adventure. Breaking down cultural barriers and providing perfect conversation starters, for 9 months across 5 different countries. Swahili, Shona, young or old it didn’t matter. Everyone wants to know what 4 crazy white guys, could possibly be doing in their town, some of the wildest expanses of Africa is not all sunshine and rainbows. Flash floods, tropical cyclones, and baking expanses of 40-degree heat. These all seem to occur in less than an 80km radius. Snapped accelerator cables, gearbox seizures, and leaking engines just add to the flavour of it all. The experience has been wild and we don’t want it to end. So you heard it here first. We’re not stopping. We’re going round the world. South America next. But why tell you about the future when you can watch it all unfold? So if this has piqued your interest give us a follow on Instagram @TukSouth and you will be the first to know when our Africa documentary drops. You can also follow all the thrills and spills of this adventure in real-time on the channel. ALL AROUND AFRICA

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18 Issue 21 NZiRA Travel Zimbabwe or most of us, going on holiday in the pre-covid era meant taking time to kick back and indulge to reward ourselves for working so hard. We would treat ourselves wherever possible, enjoy bounties of delicious food and wine, and skip our gym sessions, opting to rather put our feet up and sip cocktails at sunset. But times are changing. In the postpandemic world, our lives have been so drastically upended and transformed, it has not only changed the way we live, think and interact… It is also changing the way we travel. Rather than treating themselves with indulgence, post-pandemic travellers are looking to spoil themselves with balance and well-being. Undeniably, the last few years have been one of the greatest challenges we have faced globally. As businesses crashed, loved ones were lost and the world came to a near standstill, the long-term stress caused severe declines in global mental health and overall wellbeing. However, despite the strains faced over the past few years, people are emerging post-pandemic, more health-conscious and wellbeing focused than ever before, exploring new ways to uplift and foster their holistic wellness. One technique people are adopting to care for their mental, emotional and spiritual well-being is travelling. Not only are people desperate to traverse the globe after intensive travel restrictions and lockdown regulations, but they are also looking to contribute to their wellbeing whilst on the move, thus rebuilding the niche travel industry of Wellness Tourism. Understanding The Value Of Wellness Tourism Existing as a unique intersection of two massive global industries of tourism (valued at $2.6 trillion) and wellness (valued at $4.5 trillion), wellness travel is a rapidly growing phenomenon. During the pandemic, the Wellness Tourism Sector fell from $720 billion to $435 billion—an enormous 39.5%— between 2019 and 2020 (versus 43% for all tourism). However, in the post-covid period, it is now making an astonishing comeback! Currently valued at $542 Billion (2022) the industry is estimated to reach $1.32 Trillion by 2030, equating to a Compound Annual Growth Rate (CAGR) of 10.8% (2022-2030). Everything You Need To Know About Wellness Travel As you can see, there are great prospects for Wellness Tourism on the horizon and its growth has already begun. But what is wellness tourism and how does it fit into the Southern Africa Safari context? There is a good chance that you have already taken a wellness trip and not even realised it, and if you haven’t yet, I am going to show you what it’s all about and how you can curate a wellness Safari for yourself or your clients today! Take Your Healthiest Safari Yet: F Article | Kerrith O’Fee, Founder of Victoria Falls Yoga Images | Shaun Read Wellness Tourism Unpacked

www.nzira.co.zw Issue 21 19 1. What Is Wellness Travel? The Global Wellness Institute (GWI) describes wellness tourism as arising from the travellers desire to enhance or maintain one’s well-being through travel. Encompassing a range of components - including healthy foods, physical activity, nature immersion, self-development, and volunteering - each value add may be combined to curate an itinerary unique to each individual. Depending on the desired outcome of the traveller, the itinerary can be primarily motivated by wellness, namely yoga retreats, or it can be any kind of trip where select wellness activities, such as a yoga session or a massage, are added to elevate the overall experience. 2. The Wellness Traveller: Your Target Market One of the main reasons for the rapid growth of the Wellness Tourism Sector is the appeal to a diverse range of individuals. In a report produced by ‘Wellness & Destinations’, of the wellness travellers surveyed, 56% were female, and 56% were married or in a partnership. In addition, wellness travel attracts a broad range of ages (not just the young as originally thought) with 48% aged 36-50, 25% aged 51-65, and 17% under the age of 34. Furthermore, when examining the budget of the wellness traveller, there is an ever-increasing range from low-cost to high-end, indicating potential to reach a greater variety of wellbeing seekers – not exclusively a wealthy clientele as presumed in the past. VICTORIA FALLS 1 2

20 Issue 21 NZiRA Travel Zimbabwe connectivity through social media and work-from-home lifestyles have increased the need to disconnect. By immersing themselves in nature on Safari, travellers are afforded the rare opportunity to reconnect with themselves whilst learning from the world around them and the preserved cultures within it. How Victoria Falls Yoga Can Help You! Catering to the needs of the post-pandemic traveller, we put the Wellness in Wellness Travel, allowing local safari operators, camps, and their teams to focus on doing what they do best; creating the most memorable moments on Safari. Victoria Falls Yoga is here to help you tap into the Wellness Tourism Market by offering visitors to Southern Africa a range of Bespoke Wellness Experiences including: - Yoga Classes - Wellness Guiding - Wellness Safari Retreats - Conservation Wellness Safaris - Corporate Group Yoga & Wellness To find out more on how we can help you uplift your wellbeing and that of your clients, get in touch today to schedule a free exploration call. Visit our Website | www.victoriafallsyoga.com Connect with us on Instagram & Facebook | @victoriafallsyoga Email Kerrith | [email protected] IsinimwguhadetoevIs available on a fully inclusive option only. It includes all you need ; tailor made menus, imported and local drinks, use of the pontoons, with skippers and fuel. A minimum booking is 4 guests and our maximum is 14 guests. The Lodge has its own bar, dining area, pool and lookout deck. Families and groups welcome. From August to October the elephants roam the Lodge in the evenings, joining you for dinner. the lodge fifffflffiflflflfflffiflffiflfflfflfflffl flfflflfffifffflffiflffifflffiffifl August SpeciBased on these findings, the current target market for wellness travel is predominantly young, partnered women (aged 36-50) with a diverse budget range. However, as the industry grows in popularity and evolves, the demographics will adjust accordingly. 3. Knowing Your Traveller’s Needs A common misconception about wellness travellers is that they are a small, exclusive, and wealthy group of leisure tourists visiting destination spas and resorts. As you have seen above, wellness travellers are a more diverse group of consumers with many motivations, interests, and values. When working to incorporate Wellness into your itinerary, (for yourself or your client), it is vital to understand the goals of the traveller. GWI identifies two types of wellness travellers: a. The primary wellness traveller - Motivated by wellness and selects their destination with the sole focus of uplifting personal wellness through a transformative wellness experience (retreats). b. The secondary wellness traveller - Aims to maintain their wellbeing for the duration of their trip by enjoying wellness value adds such as a yoga class, massages, gym facilities, and healthy meals. Understanding whether you or your client is a primary or secondary wellness traveller is vital to the overall satisfaction of their trip, as the structure of the itinerary for the two different groups varies drastically. For example, the primary traveller may request daily inclusions of a morning fitness class, a wellness workshop, a spa treatment, and an evening yoga session; versus the secondary traveller who may only include daily morning yoga and one massage for the duration of their whole trip. What Africa Has To Offer As a destination, Africa shows some of the greatest promises for the wellness tourism sector. In the 2018 GWI report, it is expected that wellness tourism in the sub-Saharan region would grow 50 percent faster than the rest of the tourism industry over those five years. Combining rich nature and meditative beauty, with regionally diverse traditional wellness trends, Africa provides unique well-being experiences for both local and international tourists. With a range of remote destinations, travellers can truly disconnect from the stresses of day-to-day life, whilst experiencing nature at its purest on Safari. In modern society, heightened VICTORIA FALLS 3 A little more comfort and lusame adventure as camping. camps, with a maximum of 4Each sites has its own abluticold showers, flushing toilets with the basic requirementsincluding a – 40 deep freeze anon the fire. There are chefs/hean extra fee. There is a family tented Elephants wonder the pos graze the lawn at night! ites, which are all equipped blutions with hot and cold oilets, -40 deep freezers per area. There is a maximum of 4 mitted and 1 boat per site. Ice, available for purchase. The t’s own pool and is great fun for large group holidays and uee tents we can offer if you campsite fl fl fflffflfflflffffl
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www.nzira.co.zw Issue 21 21 discover the most beautiful African destination Is available on a fully inclusive option only. It includes all you need ; tailor made menus, imported and local drinks, use of the pontoons, with skippers and fuel. A minimum booking is 4 guests and our maximum is 14 guests. The Lodge has its own bar, dining area, pool and lookout deck. Families and groups welcome. From August to October the elephants roam the Lodge in the evenings, joining you for dinner. the lodge A little more comfort and luxury but still the same adventure as camping. We have 3 tented camps, with a maximum of 4 people per site. Each sites has its own ablutions with hot and cold showers, flushing toilets and are equipped with the basic requirements for self-catering, including a – 40 deep freeze and cooking is done on the fire. There are chefs/helpers available for an extra fee. There is a family tent available. tented camps What adventure! Elephants wonder the campsites and hippos graze the lawn at night! There are 7 campsites, which are all equipped with their own ablutions with hot and cold showers, flushing toilets, -40 deep freezers per site and a ‘cooking’ area. There is a maximum of 4 people per site permitted and 1 boat per site. Ice, wood and Wi-Fi is available for purchase. The campsite also has it’s own pool and is great fun for the kids! Great for large group holidays and we also have marquee tents we can offer if you have a larger group. campsite fifffflffiflflflfflffiflfl ffiflfflfflfflflfflffflfl ffl flfflflffflffl  fifffflffiflffifflffiffifl August Special ! Located 410km from Harare on the Lower Zambezi, accessible by vehicle or plane, Chewore Lodge and Campsite is one of Africas’ hidden gems. There are very few places in the world that you can explore the wilderness, be under the stars of Africa and in between the shades of the majestic Albida forest. We offer a range of accommodation with fully inclusive or self-catered options and boat hire is available. fl fl fflffflfflflfffflff 
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www.nzira.co.zw Issue 21 23 GUIDES The Zimbabwe Professional Guides Association he Zimbabwe Professional Guides Association (Z.P.G.A.) has grown considerably over the last five years representing individuals who hold a Professional Guides or Hunters as well as those that hold a Learner Guides & Hunters license. More recently newer Membership categories include Conservation Partners such as Companies, Trusts, NGOs, and service providers and not forgetting the next generation of conservationists, our Cubs group. The Z.P.G.A. aims to work with a collective Membership voice. Members of this Association share a commitment to the conservation of wildlife resources and the longterm survival of all areas set aside for such purposes. One such area concerns working with policymakers to identify problems and formulate solutions for the conservation of our wildlife, wildlife habitat as well as the wildlife Industry as a whole in Zimbabwe. Not only for this generation but for the long-term sustainability of future generations to come. The association, in conjunction with the government, has established and maintained one of the highest levels of field guide qualification in Africa. This system was developed by and is continuously being improved by the members themselves. Thereby maintaining a professional ethic that is meaningful and in real-time with the objectives of the Association. The Zimbabwe Government, through the Department of the Zimbabwe National Parks Wildlife Management Authority (Z.N.P.W.M.A.), remains the licensing authority but acknowledges the Association examining body as a necessary and committed partner in this regard. It is not compulsory to be a member of the Z.P.G.A. and in fact, it is restricted to individuals who comply with our strict criteria for consideration before membership is granted. But aligning oneself, if one qualifies, with an organisation like the Z.P.G.A., with a strong legacy of maintaining industry integrity and standards provides Agents with a standard to sell and Guests a superior quality product to buy into. Simply put, individuals with an affiliation to the Z.P.G.A. are automatically synonymous with the toughest Guiding standards and - more importantly - principles, in Africa. Z.P.G.A. AT THE CORE MISSION Z.P.G.A.’s mission is to ensure the conservation of wildlife through public engagement, education, and advocacy for well-regulated wildlife operations and sustainable use VISION The vision of the Z.P.G.A. is a society that values wildlife, engages in its conservation, and understands and supports the role of well-regulated operations in the sustainable use of wildlife and wildlife spaces OBJECTIVES • To institute and secure the general adoption of a high and sportsmanlike conception of wildlife and the hunting and photography of such wildlife • To promote and assist in the preservation of the flora and fauna of Zimbabwe, and to maintain the highest standard of professionalism in safari hunting and guiding • To co-operate to the fullest extent with the officers of the National Parks and Wildlife Authority, other officers of the government of Zimbabwe and the Forestry Commission, and assist them in the execution of their duties concerning the preservation of flora and fauna generally • To prevent the illegal and/or unsportsmanlike disturbances, destruction and/or molestation of fauna and flora by members of the Association and/or their clients and its or their employees • To prevent and punish illegal and unsportsmanlike practices in the hunting of fauna and to encourage, promote and insist upon honourable and sportsman-like conduct generally in the practice of the profession and sport hunting • To promote and safeguard the interest and welfare of members of the Association and their employees • To assist members of the Association and their employees • To control and regulate or prohibit the employment by members of employees in the hunting or guiding field • To prohibit control and regulate the giving of any service (for reward or otherwise) by members of the Association to persons desiring the service of a professional hunter or of a professional guide who has been guilty of illegal and/or unsportsmanlike conduct in the killing or photographing of fauna or who shall be regarded as undeserving of such service • To co-operate with other associations in Africa and elsewhere having objectives similar to this association • To co-operate with those (wherever situated) who by a business or other circumstances are directly connected with hunting game or with professional guiding, and to provide means of discussion between them and members of the Association on interested matters of common interest • To arrange and supply information to persons wishing to hunt or photograph fauna or travel in Zimbabwe • To regulate or prohibit as the case may be, the publication in Zimbabwe or elsewhere by members of advertisements, interviews, or press releases contrary to the object of the Association • To co-operate in every possible manner with the government of Zimbabwe and the Ministries whose responsibility is tourism and wildlife or their equivalent in all matters concerning the preservation of fauna and flora consistent with the practice of hunting and guiding and safari activities and to ensure compliance by its members of all legislation governing tourism, National Parks, Game Reserves, Game Conservation Areas, Forest Land, Game departments and Wildlife • To provide at all times proper and professional service, equipment, vehicles, accommodation, staff, etc. of a high standard for hire or reward to local and visiting overseas sportsmen • To co-operate to the fullest extent with the Safari Operators Association of Zimbabwe TO FIND OUT MORE ABOUT US: Visit us online at: www.zpga.org Call us on: +263 77 683 8966 Email us on: [email protected] T

24 Issue 21 NZiRA Travel Zimbabwe “The bush makes us come alive.” There’s far more to that statement than the simple eliciting of excitement through a leopard sighting or watching a herd of elephants at a waterhole. No, I mean there are things we have collectively lost as a species that we can only access through a true immersion into the wild places of our planet, and this is something that has become more evident than ever in the post-pandemic era we are entering. Over a decade of my life has been spent living and working in the African bush, waking before dawn to the distant roar of a lion heading out to track the animal, film or photograph it, and regularly observing its behaviour to interpret to guests from all around the world. And more and more, the joy of a wild encounter for me is about seeing how it can evoke deep emotions in others, who are experiencing it for the first time. I’ve watched tears streaming down the faces of people confronted with the beauty of the cosmos above. I’ve been spontaneously embraced by a whole family after we followed a leopardess back to her den and watched her tiny cubs play around on their rocky outcrop home, and time and time again I talk to guests past and present and hear about how their first visit to the African bush was a pivotal point in their lives. So what is it that lies dormant within us that gets awakened out here? I honestly believe that the African wilds – or any wilderness for that matter - can reconnect us to a long-forgotten time in our human past in which we were truly a part of this planet and its cycles. We used to be intrinsically linked to the world’s natural processes, as our very livelihoods depended on it. It wasn’t only knowledge-based, like understanding what plants were good to eat at what time of year or whether or not a predator was acting aggressively, but physiologically, there are parts of us that have to all intents and purposes gone to sleep since humanity entered a more urban existence. The kinship we once felt with the world around us has been put in a drawer. I’ve regularly woken up in the middle of the night, wondering what it was that roused me from my slumbers, only to hear the distant bellows of the local lion coalition rumbling through the still air. I am convinced that some sort of deeply latent genetic memory triggers a protective response in the body, even if that response is something as simple as waking up. The subconscious mind throws back to a time when we were the hunted: “That sound equals danger, so you better be awake to respond”. A lot of what I’m saying here will take the form of empirically-based deductions; my beliefs haven’t been proven or substantiated in any way, but having operated in an area for years in which there could be danger around any corner, I’ve learnt pretty quickly to pay attention to what my senses might be telling me. The Jacobson’s, or Vomeronasal, organ plays a major role in chemoreception in nature. A snake “sniffing” the air with its tongue is really collecting pheromones and chemicals from and then inserting its tongue tips into two pits in the roof of its palate, which are connected to its Jacobson’s organ. The organ then analyses the chemicals and feeds back to the brain such useful information as who or what passed by recently, how long ago, whether they are sexually receptive or not, etc. Elephants do the same thing with their trunks; dipping the tips into the urine of another individual and then Article and Images | James Tyrell Jamie Tyrell Wildlife Photographer

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26 Issue 21 NZiRA Travel Zimbabwe back to our roots in the wild, however superficially. If you feel your hackles rising all of a sudden, it’s your body telling you, “Danger close!”. So you hopefully don’t enter that thicket. There might not be any physical evidence present, but somehow, through some apparently undetectable stimuli, the bush is speaking to you. Your olfactory cells detect the smell of a lion, which you may not have ever smelt before, but somehow your body knows the correct way to interpret and react to that scent. Enter the hackles. And this is the real beauty of the whole experience; the true language of the bush is in the intangible. Yes, you can see, touch, taste, and feel your way through this wondrous environment on some level, but the true essence of the ecosystem can only be accessed through letting go of what you think you understand and completely giving in to the subtleties of the unexplainable. Navigate your way through on an emotional plane and seek out what feels right. In the times I’ve spent back in Cape Town (my original hometown) over the past year, I’ve noticed far more people in the outdoors than I did before. Sure, Lockdown forced us to value just being able inserting them into their palate roofs to similarly analyze the scent. And big cats when they flare their lips in what is known as the Flehmen grimace, are simply exposing their Jacobson’s organ to the pheromones contained in the urine. The existence of a Jacobson’s organ in humans is still debated to this day, but the evidence appears overwhelming that it is there. I’m no scientist, but a few simple perusals of published works on the subject have made it fairly apparent that the organ is present, and it – and other things – are constantly trying to play a role in our day-to-day lives, but we’ve lost touch with how to register their impact. When out on safari you start reacting – whether you’re aware of it or not – too far subtler cues than you would back home, cues that poorly understood parts of us like the Jacobson’s Organ are constantly detecting, and the reality of the potential exposure to dangerous animals suddenly renders us far more likely to respond to these feelings we get. These “feelings” are – I believe – a suppressed consciousness that resurfaces when we journey

www.nzira.co.zw Issue 21 27 to go outside, but I think it’s more than that. I think people are reconnecting with how alive the outdoors makes them feel, whether it’s by tracking lions or simply taking a walk on Table Mountain. The separation from nature that was forced upon many of us during the early stages of the pandemic woke us up to the simple fact that we are also organisms, we also have this visceral connection to all things natural, even though our recent evolutionary past has made us turn away from it to a large extent. We might not be able to put a finger on why we feel alive when communing with nature, we just know that we do. Ultimately, what we are all searching for is belonging. And while it may be friendship, love, and relationships that make us feel connected to each other and our respective communities, there is still something missing in the ensemble of connections in the Homo sapiens that we are. And it is this final piece of the puzzle, the awakening of long-dormant and even semi-vestigial senses that we can only find in the wilderness, that makes us feel the ultimate connection of all; the one to this glorious planet that we call home. WILDLIFE PHOTOGRAPHER

28 Issue 21 NZiRA Travel Zimbabwe The Inland Paradise Ingwe Pan Camp eing avid travellers means that sometimes we think we have seen it all, but the Zimbabwean bush always has a way of surprising us! On a recent trip to Mana Pools, we experienced this surprise through the Machaba Safaris camps that offered a varied perspective to the National Park through their distinct locations, thrilled to be on safari we started our adventures at the first of the camps- Ingwe Pan and finished off our 4 nights of adventure at their recently opened camp Mana River Camp. Machaba Safaris prides itself in offering an explorative safari that is unique and memorable, they have positioned their camps to offer this and a different outlook on the bush. Ingwe Pan, an intimate inland camp is situated on a private concession 30 minutes from the flood plains and the Zambezi B Article | Rudo Nhamoinesu Images | Tamuka Nyoni & Machaba Safaris

www.nzira.co.zw Issue 21 29 MANA POOLS River and a mere 30 minutes from the airstrip. The camp is set within mixed biodiverse woodland of Mopane, Jesse bush, and Riverine forests overlooking the Ingwe Pan, from which its name is derived. The pan offers an incredible view and is often teeming with water birds and various wildlife frequent it, on our initial arrival a few elephants were having an afternoon drink, the beauty of this is you can sit by the pan morning and afternoon and watch the wildlife if you choose to stay in camp- you are assured of action either way! As the heat becomes intense, these pans will be some of the very few water sources, and the density of the wildlife will increase as the wildlife moves inland to frequent these pans, game viewing in the dry season is incredible, you are assured of a different story at each of the different pans that surround the camp! Machaba Safaris believe in maintaining a green footprint, this ecoluxury camp is no exception. They have perfectly combined sophistication, comfort, and simple elegance with environmental consciousness. The camp is fully solar powered, with no permanent structural fixtures, and a natural cooling system is applied in all areas with the help of fans. There are 8 rooms with a total capacity of 16 pax, each room built on slightly raised decks with a stunning view of the pan. Building on the theme of classical safari, the camp has been tastefully designed with a combination of natural organic earth-toned hues, with different design elements that create a subtle and tasteful design that incorporates light coloured woods, and woven rugs and safari-style furniture. The camp layout of the rooms has a strong emphasis on guests’ privacy and allows guests to have their own private experience of Ingwe, taking in each moment with no interruptions. Each room comes with a king-size bed dressed in soft luxurious linen, a workstation, a dressing area and a bathroom with double vanity sinks, and the option of an indoor or outdoor shower. Comfortable with a sprinkle of safari luxury in the bush! Waking up each to the sunrise felt magical, the cool mornings, birds calling, the sun ushering a new day with its rays slowly lighting up the landscape, light reflecting on the pan creating a picture-perfect memory while filling you with so much gratitude- a different experience for me, waking up to this version of Mana. The camp’s main area is kept cool by the grand Sycamore Fig Tree which also happens to be the Machaba Logo, many stories were told under its widespread branches as we were served our breakfast, lunch, high tea, and dinner which was always scrumptious. Evenings before or after dinner were spent around the fire, reflecting on the outstanding days on safari. The team at Ingwe Pan from the moment we arrived, showed us exceptional hospitality that made us feel part of the family; Howard our waiter was great at keeping us hydrated with our choice of beverage, and making sure we enjoyed our meals, while Abiot the manager shared tales of the leopard sightings at camp that always had us drawn in, wishing one would make an appearance during our stay! In a push towards wildlife tourism and education, the camp offers game drives and guided walks as a way of exploring the bush which affords guests an up close and unedited interaction with nature and its offerings. While at Ingwe, our pro guide was the very skilled Edwin whose passion for the bush is unapparelled and this showed through every minute of our bush adventures with him.

30 Issue 21 NZiRA Travel Zimbabwe Our game drives around the concession and beyond comprised of great sightings, part of our many highlights being firstly a group of lionesses resting by the airstrip mostly unbothered by our presence, and then several playful baby elephants rolling around in the mud – an absolutely beautiful sight to behold. We also had very informative explanations of the vegetation and biodiversity- one of our interesting lessons was on plant hormones which then led to topics such as the abscission of leaves, a process of shedding leaves by trees to retain moisture, or how the Abscisic acids cause the colour changes in the leaves. This is just an example of how much more you can learn about the bush! No 2 game drives are the same if you have an incredible guide. The birdlife here is incredible, Edwin took us to the different pans around camp, while at each one he patiently pointed out the diverse bird populations found within this area, of note, was the Hadada Ibis, Grey flycatcher, Masked Weavers, White-browed sparrow weaver. If you are interested in an ornithologically focused trip, then a visit to Ingwe and its surrounding pans will be one for your books! We would round off our evening game with a sundowner at different spots each day, here Edwin would serve freshly prepared snacks against the backdrop of the African sunset. Drinks in hand as we watched the sun go down, soaking in the ambiance and the gorgeous colours reminding us of the beauty offered by the African bush. It is safe to say, this inland camp proved to be an adventurous destination. From the great hospitality to the comfortable and luxurious lodgings, the passion of the guide and the great location made this trip worthwhile! As the sunset on our second night, we were full of excitement as we prepared ourselves for our next adventure- Mana River Camp.

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32 Issue 21 NZiRA Travel Zimbabwe take a long deep breath to calm myself down. The excitement builds inside me as I gaze at the scene. This time it is a hot dry river bed, leading the eye to a small hill, behind it which are bigger hills that I know belong to Zambia. I imagine a huge elephant bull walking towards me with its gleaming ivory slung low. I wipe my eyes and instead I see the heat waves dance up off the sand which I see as a touch of yellow ochre and alizarin crimson, but from experience, I know that it will cost me mostly titanium white. I dip my long, hog hair paintbrush into some turpentine, blend it into the crimson, and with this pink wash, I mark out where the river bed and hills will go onto the small white canvas. I mix paint furiously and start blocking in colour from the top of the canvas. I take a cursory look around to check if there is nothing dangerous coming up behind. I am alone and all I have between me and the land cruiser, roughly 100m away, is my trusty Leatherman knife on my belt. My flimsy wooden French box easel will be no use in defending me. Perhaps I could throw it as a distraction should some wild animal come against me. This has happened once before. Although I am not a professional guide or hunter I have been around the bush long enough to realize the risk is low, but there all the same. I work on the principle that if you leave wild animals alone, they will do the same for you. The combination of painting outdoors, all the challenges that go with it, and being alone in the bush fuels such a delight in me that I keep coming back for more. As my painting progresses I mix and change colour to match exactly what I am seeing in front of me. The painting is rushed and raw, the brush strokes bold, but to me, it is a reward, a little jewel of memory. After an hour it is over and I slide the little oil on canvas into its protective box known as a “wet painting carrier.” It could take days to dry, but most likely less in this heat. I take one last look around me and see it is safe to walk the distance back to the vehicle. It has been a good day of painting for me. Four 8”x12” little oil paintings all of which will go into my library of memories and for future reference when I get back to my studio in Harare. While I have been painting, my closest friends have been out on the river fishing all day and are high on life themselves having caught well. We finally get to sit down all together for sundowners, for me, a cup of tea does it, and lo and behold right in front of us on the stage that is the small flood plain the lion kill a waterbuck. Even though that was 6 years ago, that day stands out for me. I have since painted hundreds of little paintings in various places around Zimbabwe. Street scenes, Eastern Highlands, Gonarezhou, Mana Pools, Kariba, Hwange, Vic Falls, as well as obscure places like Bakasa, which is just above the escarpment on the Guruve Road. I made the mistake of selling the first 40 or so before I realized I was selling my colour notes, my recordings, my memories. I love going out on the road to paint but it is harder to do these days. My finished paintings are done from my verandah in Harare. I also teach art 2 days a week at a I Landscape Artist Barry Thomas Article and Images | Barry Thomas

www.nzira.co.zw Issue 21 33 private school. Art has been in my life for almost 20 years now. My 3 children only know me as a painter although it wasn’t always that way. I started as a Motor Mechanic and then flew light aircraft for a short time before settling down to work on the family farm. I was nearly 30 before I started painting full-time. I became an apprentice painter to Craig Bone. The kindness shown to me by Mr. Bone was enough to give me a very tentative start as a professional painter in 2004. This journey has had its ups and downs and I think any normal person would have long given up to pursue a more stable career, but my nature won’t let me. It’s just so very addictive. Back in my studio, a finished painting may take 50hrs over days and weeks to complete. It is the love of painting the landscape that inspires me. If the reader is familiar with our countryside perhaps you have already seen a short stout middle-aged man on the side of the road somewhere with his French box easel painting happily away. Or maybe you will encounter me sometime in the future. If you feel so inclined stop for a chat, I have found that painting arouses people’s curiosity. I have had some very encouraging encounters and some humorous ones as well. Some comments that stand out are – “You mean to say you can take this environment and put it into your drawing?” Fully aware that English was not his first language I burst out laughing because it somehow made perfect sense. Another favourite of mine is “Sheet, you are dangerous!” Well, I know I am not physically dangerous, so as he made this comment whilst looking at my painting I got the meaning of what he was saying. Zimbabwean folk are so friendly and these interactions with otherwise strangers on the side of the road make my life richer. A few years ago I was painting in a small growth point and very soon I drew a crowd, and it suddenly struck me that just about all Zimbabweans love art, and perhaps somehow I could do some good with it. The idea was and still is to take my easel and set it up in a village somewhere, start painting and see who is naturally curious. Then start chatting about art and very soon the village artist will be pointed out because just like there is an artist in every family, there will be one in every village. I could give them a go with a brush and look for some hidden talent. Could you imagine how it would change someone’s life if we found ourselves a John Constable type in a rural village? Oil painting can appear to be overwhelming but having painted in oils for so many years I know the whole process can be simplified and I believe I could get someone painting outdoors in oils in a very short amount of time. I haven’t followed through on my idea yet because I don’t want to give people hope and not be in a position to carry it further at this stage. However, the seed is there and one day I hope to see a young lad or girl from a small rural village with paintings hanging in the finest galleries in the World, knowing I have been a part of that process. CONTACT E: [email protected] C: 0772786766 ARTIST

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www.nzira.co.zw Issue 21 35 Hideaways Mana Pools Safari Lodge f you’re not already aware, Mana Pools is named after the four permanent pools nestled into the beautiful, untamed landscape of the national park. These four pools are called Long Pool, Green Pool, Chine Pool, and Chisasiko Pool, and together they form the beating heart of Mana Pools. I had the pleasure of traveling to the Hideaways Mana Pools Safari Lodge in June, leaving behind the frosty Harare mornings and evenings spent wrapped in an obscene number of blankets, in favour of the warmth and sunshine that permanently engulfs the national park. During my travels, I concluded that this Hideaways lodge has four outstanding reasons to go and visit; the stunning and private accommodation, the delicious food and drinks, the welcoming people, and the exciting activities. Accommodation- This eco-friendly solar-powered lodge is located on the edge of the tranquil Zambezi River, almost at the end of the road by Vundu Point, making it a peaceful (if you don’t count the lions roaring) and private getaway. It has 12 stunning guest chalets, spaced apart for complete privacy, built up on stilts with soaring thatch ceilings and tented sides. The chalets are undoubtedly luxurious, yet they are designed to blend in perfectly with their natural surroundings to ensure an authentically African and wild experience. Each chalet features two ultra-comfortable double beds and a large luxurious bathroom with a tub built for extravagance. There is also a private balcony with comfortable seating that’s perfect for a morning coffee watching the sun colour the sky or an evening sundowner whilst watching the game pass by your very doorstep. If that’s not enough, the communal building in the center of the camp has designated spaces that inspire you to unwind and a sparkling blue pool with uninterrupted panoramic views of the Zambezi River. The pool is child friendly and a dream after a long, sticky game drive. As I sat on the deck, sunning myself in the comfortable sun loungers with a G&T in my hand, watching a family of elephants meander past, I knew I was experiencing a memory that would stay with me forever. The restaurant and bar are also easily accessible here and there’s even a large bonfire pit on the flood plains, surrounded by comfortable chairs under the Acacia trees. I Article and Images | Hannah Rothwell MANA POOLS

36 Issue 21 NZiRA Travel Zimbabwe Food & Drink- A large wooden bar is placed perfectly at the entrance of the Mana Pools Safari Lodge. On arrival, I was greeted with refreshingly cold juices and delicious snacks, just what I needed to reenergize from the drive and get into the holiday spirit. Acclimatising to the heat of Mana Pools required plenty of refills throughout the afternoon and more than my fair share of ice. The bar is stocked with anything you may need but the lodge also allows guests to bring their own drinks if you are craving something in particular or if you’d just like to keep your costs low when travelling in large parties. The restaurant in the main building is filled with solid wood furniture and boasts an elegant African theme, in case you’ve forgotten that you’re in the middle of the wild. Main meals at Mana Pools Safari Lodge are served buffet style with so many different choices to keep everyone happy, perfect for families or those fussy foodies! The chef knows exactly what he’s doing and I strongly recommend putting your diet on hold for when you visit (the milk tart is irresistible). On our last night at Mana Pools Safari Lodge, a delicious dinner had been set up around the bonfire, with private tables lit up by lanterns and the stars to show us the way. The night was made even more magical by the herd of elephants, quietly walking past us like grey ghosts in the night, and the family of impala that lay under the tree next to us and went to sleep. It was an evening that truly showcased the balance between luxury and exhilarating natural encounters, as is the Mana Pools Safari Lodge vision. The Team- It is truly the team that makes Mana Pools Safari Lodge so special. I can’t imagine a more fun, welcoming, and accommodating group of people. The staff can take a joke and dish out some hilarious oneliners -“It’s Saturday, party today then work hard on Monday”, making you feel comfortable and energised. Drinks are always poured with a wink and a “maybe just a little more” and nothing is truly too difficult. Going above and beyond for their clients is the mindset at Mana Pools Safari Lodge, I had accidentally left my favorite coffee mug at the lodge when I departed and the amazing staff worked their magic and it was waiting for me back in Harare before I had unpacked. Activities- The lodge manager and tour guide for our stay was the amazing John. We chose to experience a sundowner’s and an early morning game drive to see everything that Mana Pools had to offer. On our sundowner drive, there were, of course, drinks and snacks by one of the four

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38 Issue 21 NZiRA Travel Zimbabwe historic pools and for our morning drive, we gorged ourselves on fresh sausage rolls, chocolate muffins, tea, and coffee at the beautiful Mana Mouth, surrounded by hippos. The game in Mana Pools cannot be beaten, having 4 out of the Big 5 and abundant with other wildlife, it’s a wilderness enthusiast’s dream. Our guide, John, was magnificent in teaching us new things we’d never heard about the animals, and I was convinced I’d heard it all before! He was also great at tailoring a tour to someone’s specific interests, after John learnt that we had a birder in the vehicle he made sure to identify them all! And he didn’t even complain when I asked him to reverse the vehicle for the 10th time as I hadn’t been able to get the perfect angle for my millionth elephant picture. In the afternoon we chose to go fishing right off the water’s edge where we managed to catch enough fish to hold our heads high. The sun was scorching but we had been provided with a cooler box filled with so many refreshments we could have stayed a week. Walking tours are also available at the lodge for a more wild and natural experience. The sun was shining for us this winter and I wish that I could go back for a little bit more Mana Pools magic. Hideaways Mana Pools Safari Lodge makes for the perfect local getaway for both romantic weekends away or for high-spirited family fun. CONTACT T: +27 (0) 21 671 7729 (Reservations) E: [email protected] W: https://hideawaysafrica.com/ Nzira Travel E: [email protected] E: [email protected] MANA POOLS

www.nzira.co.zw Issue 21 39

40 Issue 21 NZiRA Travel Zimbabwe n the mid to late 1980s, Zimbabwe was home to the world’s largest population of Critically Endangered black rhinos, estimated at 1,700 individuals. The majority of these animals lived in the magnificent Zambezi Valley. Intense rhino poaching pressure to the north had decimated other populations, completely wiping the species out in many countries. As this wave of poaching hit Zimbabwe’s northern border, a similar fate threatened to unfold. The ease with which poachers could sneak back to Zambia over the international boundary made securing the rhinos in the Zambezi Valley a near impossible task. Records from the time document that over 1,000 poached rhino carcasses were found during the decade from 1984-1993. Only an estimated 264 black rhinos remained alive in Zimbabwe in 1994. By then, the seriousness of the situation had compelled urgent new policies to be developed, including translocating black rhinos from the Zambezi Valley to I Article | Natasha Anderson Together We Stand Black Rhino Conservation in Zimbabwe

www.nzira.co.zw Issue 21 41 World Wide Fund for Wildlife (WWF) established “The Rhino Conservancy Project” (later to become the Lowveld Rhino Trust). This was intended to set up Zimbabwe’s “insurance policy” for black rhinos, and ultimately succeeded in this objective. The Rhino Conservancy Project coordinated the efforts of Zimbabwe National Parks and landholders in Zimbabwe’s South East Lowveld, who at the time were primarily cattle ranchers facing one of the most severe droughts in living memory. This initiative catalyzed a land-use conversion. Not only were new safe havens created for the imperilled black rhinos in large areas under co-management by ranchers, but rewilding with a full range of other wildlife species was also facilitated. Many properties decided to give up cattle farming altogether in favour of joining the more environmentally (and economically) sustainable wildlife industry. The Rhino Conservancy Project worked with these landholders to reach agreements to join their properties together by removing all internal fencing to establish secure areas large enough to hold 100 black rhinos each. Black rhinos are browsers and in these semiarid bushvelds, habitats require about 10km² each to meet their food and social requirements, without the negative effects of overstocking. Two main conservancies reached this objective with Bubiana (in the West Nicholson area) achieving a single unit of 1,270km², and Save Valley Conservancy (north of Chiredzi) amalgamating to 3,200km². Chiredzi River Conservancy was not far off the goal at 900 km². Perimeter game-proof fences were erected and collectively these areas took in 83 black rhinos. By 2000 the collective population had grown to over 200 individuals. In a slow-breeding species like back rhinos, which produce only one calf every two years at best, these numbers more secure parts of the country. Some were moved into State-land areas called Intensive Protection Zones (IPZs) where additional security and management efforts were intended, but not fully implemented. The International Rhino Foundation provided support to these IPZs, assisting with dehorning operations and rhino monitoring programs. In the early 1990s, with a large grant from the Beit Trust, the CONSERVATION

42 Issue 21 NZiRA Travel Zimbabwe represent excellent breeding and security success, with the security being provided by the conservancies. And it was not only the black rhinos that were succeeding. Wildlife numbers of all species grew in these conservancies, predators included now they were no longer persecuted as enemies to commercial livestock production. With growing wildlife populations came the opportunity to grow tourism and these scenic areas proved very attractive to local and international visitors alike. In addition to Bubiana, Save Valley and Chiredzi River Conservancies, the Bubye Valley Conservancy (which has imported white rhinos from South Africa), Malilangwe Trust (which imported black and white rhinos in from South Africa), Nuanetsi Ranch and the vast Gonarezhou National Park made the South East Lowveld of Zimbabwe a major wildlife-based tourism attraction. But this growing industry, and the wildlife areas it was based on, did not escape the impacts of the Fast Track Land Reform period after 2000. The conversion of sections of the conservancies to subsistence farming decimated the habitat the black rhinos relied on, and many rhinos were caught in snares set by bushmeat poachers. These required frequent veterinary interventions to be made by the Rhino Conservancy Project. With the expanding human settlement came an increasing security risk and commercial poachers started to exploit the opportunity to renew their poaching of rhinos. Since tourism was severely reduced, the incomes needed to maintain security and management of the remaining portions of the conservancies could no longer meet the costs, and NGOs needed to step in to help the embattled rhinos once again. The Lowveld Rhino Trust, which grew out of the Rhino Conservancy Project, had continued to assist the conservancies with rhino monitoring and management since moving the rhinos in, but now had to start moving the rhinos out of the worse affected zones into more securable areas. Extra support to help fund the conservancy security efforts came from long-time NGO partners like the International Rhino Foundation, Save The Rhino International, and WWF. These NGOs stepped in to help try and fill in the growing gap between what the conservancies could provide and what was needed to prevent the rhinos from slipping back towards extinction. In a cruel twist of timing, this extended period of instability in Zimbabwe overlapped with a new resurgence in rhino horn trade, this time growing out of South Africa where malpractices in the wildlife ranching industry fuelled illegal supply chains. Intense pressure from commercial poachers armed with automatic weapons and high-power hunting rifles fitted with scopes and suppressors started taking a heavy toll on Zimbabwe’s rhinos. The black rhino population, which had recovered to over 530 blacks by 2007, was knocked back down to 400 by 2010. Fortunately, again, the combined strategy of moving rhinos out of un-securable areas and increasing the protection effort around the survivors has proven successful and Zimbabwe’s black rhino population has been increasing in numbers again. At the end of 2022, Zimbabwe reported over 640 black rhinos – the most ever in the last thirty years. Zimbabwe’s current success in black rhino conservation is not only marked by growing numbers but also by the area. Last year the surviving South East Lowveld rhino conservancies – Bubye Valley, Save Valley, and Malilangwe, each contributed black rhinos to create a founder population in Gonarezhou National Park. This reintroduction marks not only the culmination of years of work by the partnership between the Frankfurt Zoological Society and the Parks and Wildlife Management Authority but decades of collaboration between the private sector, NGOs, and the Parks and Wildlife Management Authority. Without collaboration, the challenges rhinos face to survive in this world are too great. We have to work together to save them. Today the South East Lowveld is home CONSERVATION

www.nzira.co.zw Issue 21 43 adies and gentleman! From the organisers of The Zimbabwe Safari Rally, we bring you an epic amazing 4x4 challenge - The Kapenta Fender Bender! Over the past 2 years of running The Zimbabwe Safari Rally; (a 2 wheel drive car challenge where one/a team has to drive an old vehicle 550km from Bulawayo via Hwange National Park to the finish line in Victoria Falls using only back roads and following or exploring the road less traveled), many people have asked us to create a 4x4 focused challenge and that is what we have done! We welcome you to The Kapenta Fender Bender! The Kapenta Fender Bender is a completely unique world class experience. An extreme 4x4 challenge! Join us for a 5 night challenge from Kariba Dam wall around the Lake to Binga. One of the most unique aspects of this challenge is that it is now a team based challenge and not an individual challenge, making it very interesting when it comes to driving in some of the harsh 4x4 environments you will be in. You might do very well on day then suffer a major breakdown on another day! Mechanical back up will be provided for all teams and our skilled mechanics are there to help keep you going by all means possible! DATES: Wednesday I 6th to Monday 21st November 2022 PACKAGE RATE: $1500 USD per person. This includes accommodation, on a sharing basis, all meals, houseboat activities medical and mechanical backup. Drinks will be for your account. Excluded is Lake Usage fees: $30 per person. Contact & Booking Details: Bernie Styles Lees May I +263 779949228 Charles Taylor I +263 776030600 Email Bernie on [email protected] I www.taylorsafarica.com How it works: You and your friends ,or a company sponsor are to enter in teams of 4 people with a 4x4 of any age, from old Landrovers to the latest kitted out 4WD on the market, the choice is yours. 1 vehicle = 4 people. Ladies welcome! The itinerary is attached in more detail but in a nut shell this is how the event will work. The challenge will start in Kariba with an epic Copacabana beach themed party, with all guests being accommodated on houseboats. The next day, 2 of your team members will depart by road for the 4 wheel drive - road less travelled and the remaining 2 pax will remain on the houseboats, which will cruise across Lake Kariba meeting up later on with those that have driven round. Fishing and sunset cruises will complete the day. The following day will be a repeat of day 1 but team members will switch around, giving the drivers from day 1 a chance to rest their weary bones whilst relaxing on board the houseboat as it takes you to your next destination. Day 3 and Day 4 to repeat. The event will come to a close in Binga! What makes this event so unique is that it give you best of both worlds where you enjoy the hospitality of the amazing boats that we are using as well as letting you travel on some epic 4x4 routes seeing a part of Zimbabwe we guarantee not many of you have seen before. You will have the opportunity to test your 4x4’s to the limit and see how good these vehicles and accessories really are, giving you a whole new appreciation for “them as well as having an amazing adventure! The reason that we have created this as a team event and challenge is that it is an extreme challenge event with ver.y rough roads and terrain that would not be enjoyable should you slog at it for 4 days non stop, hence the option to alternate with days relaxing on the boats. That being said, it is not rough and rugged for the whole trip. There are some beautiful scenic routes along the journey. We have chosen to partner with a company called Zambezi Cruise Safaris and we will be using their stunning fleet of boats such as the newly renovated Zambezi Trader. This will guarantee that each and every person receives world class hospitality and a first class experience across the board. L ADVENTURE

44 Issue 21 NZiRA Travel Zimbabwe Day 1 - Kariba Safari Lodge Arrive in Kariba for the themed “Tropical Beach” kick-off party that evening at Kariba Safari Lodge. Guests will be accommodated on houseboats that evening. Day 2 - Kariba Safari Lodge to Gache Gache Wake up 6am for 2 of the 4 drivers in your team to have breakfast and leave as soon as possible to start the 4x4 trail. Packed lunches provided for said drivers. Your remaining 2 team members will have this day to enjoy cruising across the Lake on the houseboats. Meals included on board. Drivers will depart from Kariba Safari Lodge and head around the Eastern basin of Lake Kariba through some rugged terrain, crossing over the Charara, Nyaodza and Gache Gache Rivers. You will finish the day at Gache Gache, where you will be ferried by tender boat to meet the houseboats and your other team members and end the day on a sundowner with a spot of fishing should you wish. Dinner and accommodation on board the houseboats. Day 4 - Tiger Bay to Chete Wake up 6am for Day 2 drivers to take over again. You will be ferried across to where the vehicles are parked and begin a tough days 4x4 driving towards Chete. Packed lunches provided. Day 3’s drivers will have the opportunity on this day to relax on board the houseboats whilst they make their way around from Tiger Bay towards Chete. Meals included on board. Upon completion of this day in Chete you’ll be ferried over to the houseboats to again join up with your remaining team members for a some fishing or a sundowner cruise. Dinner and accommodation on board the houseboats. Day 3 - Gache Gache to Tiger Bay Wake up 6am for the alternating 2 drivers in your team to have breakfast and leave as soon as possible via tender boat to where the vehicles are parked to start this days 4 x 4 challenge. Packed lunches provided for said drivers. Day 2’s drivers will have the opportunity on this day to relax on board the houseboats whilst they make their way around from Gache Gache towards Tiger bay . Meals included onboard. As per Day 1, the driving team will finish up in Tiger Bay and be ferried over to join everyone on the houseboats and enjoy a sundowner cruise and some fishing. We shall be relying on you to catch some bream for fresh bar snacks that evening! Dinner and accommodation on board the houseboats . Day 5 - Chete to Binga Wake up 6am for Day 3’s drivers to take over again. You will be ferried across to where the vehicles are parked and begin a tough days 4x4 driving towards Binga. Packed lunches provided. Day 4’s drivers will have the opportunity on this day to relax on board the houseboats whilst they make their way around from Chete to Binga. Meals included on board. Upon completion of this day in Binga you’ll be ferried over to the houseboats to again join up with your remaining team members for a some fishing or a sundowner cruise. The Kapenta Fender Bender event will come to a close with a celebratory closing party in congratulating you all on your accomplishment of having driven and boated from the Kariba Dam Wall to Binga! No easy task! Day 6 - Event Completion Participants to depart home from Binga/or vehicles are transported back to Harare or Bulawayo. The houseboats will be returning back to Kariba, so for anyone wanting to do the journey back by boat Bernie can arrange it. There is also an option to fly out of Binga or Kariba. Please contact Bernie for more information if you are interested in these options. ADVENTURE WEDNESDAY 16TH NOVEMBER 2022 THURSDAY 17TH NOVEMBER 2022 FRIDAY 18TH NOVEMBER 2022 SATURDAY 19TH NOVEMBER 2022 SUNDAY 20TH NOVEMBER 2022 MONDAY 21ST NOVEMBER 2022

www.nzira.co.zw Issue 21 45 n the 3rd of August 2022, the Nzira team was invited to join Minister Ndlovu, the Minister of Environment, Climate Change, Tourism and Hospitality during his tour of the Cresta Lodge renovations in Harare. Cresta Hotels have a long and proud history of service in Southern Africa, with operations in Zimbabwe, Botswana and South Africa. Here, in Zimbabwe, Cresta Hotels have five properties around the country; Cresta Lodge, Cresta Jameson and Cresta Oasis in Harare; Cresta Churchill in Bulawayo and Cresta Sprayview in, you guessed it, Victoria Falls. The Cresta brand prides itself in being “an operation of substance and experience, with a strong commitment to the travel and tourism sector in Zimbabwe and across Southern Africa”. To demonstrate this commitment, Cresta Hotels regularly undertake refurbishment programmes to guarantee that their hotels stand out as a leading example of hospitality and provide a customer-centric environment and an unforgettable experience for all guests. Their latest refurbishment proramme is currently underway at Cresta Lodge in Harare, drawing the Minister’s attention as he wishes to see what the travel and tourism sector is up to after the long COVID years are hopefully coming to an end. This current project, scheduled to finish at the end of this year, just in time for its 30th anniversary next year, has been labelled a ‘soft refurbishment’, entailing refurbishments of public spaces and all bedrooms and bathrooms. It also begins the journey of modernising the hotel further TOURISM UPDATE 0 Cresta Lodge Renovations Article | Hannah Rothwell

46 Issue 21 NZiRA Travel Zimbabwe by creating ‘smart’ zones that will appeal to international guests, younger generations and business people. The tour of Cresta Lodge allowed us to look at some of the mock bedrooms that had been restyled and updated to give us a taste of what it will look like when all the renovations are complete and it was delicious! The bedrooms will experience the addition of new curtains, rugs, all new furniture and modern décor. Talking to a Cresta spokesperson, they defined the new vision as ‘African Chic’- a simple balance of modern and elegant simplicity with touches of African fabrics and textures, to give their guests a glimpse of our country’s culture. These tastes of Africa can be seen by woven baskets containing luscious green palms and chevron patterns brought into colorful throw pillows and blankets over the thick white duvets. Natural colours are brought into the rooms by the beautiful artwork on display and stand out against the crisp white of the rooms. Plenty of natural light flows into the rooms through the big windows or balcony doors and provides you with stunning views of their luscious gardens. Everything about the rooms at Cresta Lodge is so peaceful and calming that you feel completely Zen when there, especially if your room overlooks that beautiful, crystal clear swimming pool and you can hear the water from the fountains flowing. You will truly believe you are in an oasis and not in the middle of a bustling town like Harare, it makes for the perfect local getaway. Cresta Lodge is also going to great lengths to ensure that its hotel remains relevant in today’s world by introducing a Smart Block. Alongside the design renovations, all rooms will be given smart TVs so that guests can enjoy a wider selection of entertainment options and functions with Netflix, YouTube and so much more on offer. But some guests want more than this, so the technologically savvy guests can opt for a bedroom in the Smart Block, which will be able to run completely from an app on your phone. You will be able to sign on to the app, check yourself in and choose your room (appealing to those that don’t like small talk at the reception desk). The rooms will also feature RFID locks, smart locks that will respond to the app on your phone, so, no more losing your room key! This unbelievable app will also be able to control your TV, air conditioning, lights, room service and even your curtains! Cresta Lodge is truly at the top of its game and keeps travel and tourism in Zimbabwe modern and appealing to all generations and personality types. But don’t worry, I know some guests would be completely befuddled by an app or just prefer to open the curtains themselves and look out onto that beautiful garden, so, you can choose to stay in one of the equally lovely ‘normal’ rooms. In the common areas, Cool Beans Coffee Shop, Chatters Restaurant and Reception, the ‘African Chic’ look is also being introduced by adding natural woods in the form of coffee tables and bar tops and also by bringing in woven elements by creating a feature lighting piece of hanging baskets. The conference facilities have also been updated with state-of-the-art video conferencing technology to make Cresta Lodge the number one choice for businesses and conferences. To wrap things up, they will also be replacing their exterior fence so that their outside image represents what’s going on inside. Altogether, Cresta Lodge is investing US$2 million into these refurbishments and therefore into the travel and tourism industry. This is the largest refurbishment since 2014 which was valued at USD$7.5 million. Cresta is not afraid to keep up with the times and always wants to put its best foot forward. They don’t shy away from new trends and want to embrace modernity to ensure that their guests are getting the best experience they can, to an international standard. We can’t wait to be invited back to see the finished result at Cresta Lodge at the end of this year, the taste we were given has made us hungry for more. TOURISM UPDATE

48 Issue 21 NZiRA Travel Zimbabwe Introducing Kuva Air Best fares, on-time departures, and superb inflight experience. We fly to Victoria Falls, Kariba, and more destinations coming soon. Kuva Air is also available for charter.