Outlook Traveller

i n d i a ’ s 1no.
T r av e l
magazine

september 2020 • L150 www.outlooktraveller.com

TH E LO NG

j o u r
Undhiyu
Just a little Our Man in recipe from Roadtrip across
further to Europe, Nitin the different
Taktsang Chaudhary Gujarat states

n e y

New faces in old Embrace nirvana Yoga through
places: Hampi at Ganpatipule the ages

Around the Block Meet the GM Time Traveller Book Review
Hazratganj Suman Nanaiah The Maharaja of Every Creature

Air India has a Story

8 904150 800003 06 i t ’ s n o t w h e r e ——— i t ’ s h o w



september Roadtrip Section
Special
eat
Volume 20
Iss u e 6

explore “Life is either a
daring adventure,
28 The List or nothing at all.”

When you’re on a journey of – Helen Keller
rediscovery, follow these trails
through India’s states

36 Ganpatipule

Ameya Bundellu
The lesser-known escape
along the Konkan coast

Don’t miss the ukadiche
modaks at Mehendale’s

Swaad Dining 36

48 Hampi

Rangeet Ghosh
The ruins of the old
Vijayanagara empire are home
to a new kind of people today

56 Bhutan

Trinetra Paul
A spiritual trek to the heart
of the tiger’s lair

radar

12 yoga page Tree pose, goat
yoga, immunity-boosting tips
14 around the block
Hazratganj
16 our man In Europe The
Danish summer in Nyhavn
17 Insta travel This month’s
pick of monsoon forts

Cover photograph: SHUTTERSTOCK

outlook traveller 3

Section Re g u l a r s

eat september4 Editor
Amit Dixit
back Assistant Editor
Labanya Maitra
86 Books Senior Sub Editor
88 Gearbox Roshni Subramanian
89 smart TraveL Photo Editor
When you’re about Shruti Singh
to hit the road, don’t Deputy Art Director
forget these roadtrip Rehana Farhan Shaikh
essentials and tips Senior Designer
90 Time Traveller Rangeet Ghosh

↑ Niraamaya Retreats, Kumarakom 81 Outlooktraveller.com
Senior Features Writer
stay eat
Simrran gill
82 UpdateS This 70 island cake ↑ The mini printer for Senior Contributing Writer
month’s pick of what’s The new trend on the your smartphone,
happening across your social media block Uttara Gangopadhyay
favourite hotels like Le Fujifilm’s Instax Mini Consulting Editor
Bristol Paris 72 interview What’s Link comes in Dusty Anuradha Sengupta
new with Chef Saby Pink, Ash White and Librarian
83 Interview An Alka Gupta
inside look into the 73 meal of Denim Blue 88
life of Suman Nanaiah, the month Business Office
Area GM of Royal Comorin, Gurugram CHIEF EXECUTIVE OFFICER
Orchid Hotels, Mysuru
75 Classic recipe indranil roy
Gujarat’s Undhiyu PUBLISHER

X what we covered this month MEENAKSHI AKASH

Lucknow 14 Bhutan 56 Karnataka 74 Kolkata 82 Advertisements
Dubai 74 Mysuru 83 Vice President
Tamil Nadu 18 Gujarat 60 France 76 UTTARAKHAND 29
Bishangarh 78 Odisha 30 Shrutika Dewan (brand & marketing)
Ganpatipule 36 Gurugram 73 Kumarakom 81 Goa 34
Digital Team
Bihar 40 New Delhi 72 Amit Mishra

hampi 48 Kerala 74 Circulation & Subscription
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Printed and published by Indranil Roy
on behalf of Outlook Publishing (India)

Private Limited. Editor: Amit Dixit.
Printed at Kalajyothi Process Pvt Ltd,
Sy.No.185, Sai Pruthvi Enclave, Kondapur

500084, R.R. Dist., Telangana &
published from AB-10 Safdarjung

Enclave, New Delhi 110029.

Released on 01-09-2020
Total no. of pages 88 + Covers

Long-haul Foreign junkies who
holidays like to fly across the
seven seas, take this
W ho would have thought it, but it looks as an opportunity to
like proper holidays are making a slow explore India properly
but steady comeback. Sooner than expected.
Trends indicate that more and more families In other words, you leave a destination in
are hitting the road, heading out to a better shape than you found it.
favourite cottage in the hills or exploring an
entire state on a single trip, with a marked My photograph accompanying this issue’s
preference for scenic settings which offer letter is from a trip to Ranthambhore last
easy seclusion and social distancing. And it’s winter. There was a delicious nip in the air,
likely to stay this way for a while. and the sun shone bright in a way it only
does on a cold winter’s day. There was music
Work From Home has basically become in the air (this was at the Ranthambhore
Work From Anywhere. And the kids can log Music Festival). How I miss those trips now,
into their online classes from anywhere especially large gatherings of people, pressed
too. Our cover story this issue explores the into close proximity. Wonder when we can
phenomenon and we’ve lined up some nice have our festivals back. And crowded streets
suggestions from across the country for you. with buskers. And food shack queues. And
Reminds me of the sort of holidays at least hugs. And handshakes. Fingers crossed...
we used to take in my childhood, long group
tours or vacations to the home town (nani ke Amit Dixit @omitdixit
ghar) which could last an entire summer.

All you foreign junkies who like to sail (or
fly) across the seven seas, let’s take this as an
opportunity to explore India properly. There’s
a breathtaking variety of destinations and
experiences here. And they need our support
right now. In fact, the next wave of tourism is
likely to be regenerative, not just sustainable.

Crossed Off my 3 things ↑ Went through my stuff and Something I ate
reading list I did this found this #throwback photo
month with someone famous Turkey! Courtesy Chef
India: The World Sabyasachi Gorai who has
Vegetarian ↓ Had some non-alcoholic been rustling up this and other
Roopa Gulati beer (quite nice) American birds at his Deli.
One doesn’t really read
a cookbook from cover ← Burnt some
to cover, but I know I’ll cookies (still
be dipping into this one pretty, no?)
a lot.

Up Next
Meditations
Marcus Aurelius

outlook traveller 5

front The Chatter facebook / instagram / youtube Around The
@outlooktraveller World on
Twitter @oltraveller Celluloid

#OTHallOfFrame All set for your next virual
escape from the comfort of
We scoured through our feed, brimming with all kinds of your armchair?
gems, to bring you the rarest of our finds
Baraka
Poll to picture Ron Fricke • A documentary
So many travellers, so many filmed over 5 years in 25
travel styles. Here’s what odd countries; it explores
you picked! language, nationality,
religion and politics
Soul food Fine Dining
Tracks
Adventure Escape John Curran• An adaptation
of the real life memoir
Delays Stopover of Robyn Davidson, it
chronicles the nine-month-
Neck rest headphones long journey across the C
deserts of Australia M
Rainfall Snowfall Y
The Darjeeling Limited CM
X Sikkim Letter of the month Wes Anderson• A dramedy MY
involving family bonds, the CY
@_ayeli.m_ Gazing at the golden spotlight as a single ray Reminiscing movie takes you on a trip CMY
of sun emerges from behind the clouds the good ol’ days across India aboard the K
‘Darjeeling Limited’
X Rajasthan “Exuberant, vivid I subscribed to OT for the
and bewitching. The first time when I was in Copenhagen
@adaay.10 The man who cultural heritage here school. But back then I Mark Raso • An indie
knows Jaipur in and out will leave you with a couldn’t travel as much. coming of age adventure,
lifelong experience of So, I travelled through Copenhagen recounts the
pure divinity.” your magazine. Over the protagonist’s journey as he
@su.nita8926 years many other travel backpacks across Europe
magazines came but I
On the eventually stopped reading. If you’re unsure which one
Channel Recently, I rediscovered all to pick, fret not! We’ve got
these magazines on the Jio you covered. For more film
X Ecuador Video Theyyam of App but the one I specifically recommendations head to
Kolathunadu | Kerala looked for was OT. The our website.
@dan_lior Tribal tales from articles are still as good. The
the Amazon rainforest layout is still as amazing. Exploring
Till now, I’ve just read your Hidden
editorial section, but I Treasures
already love it. Thank you for
keeping the magazine going. @Soumitra2015
MEGHNA CHOWDHARY, The travelogue on
VADODARA Puducherry authored by Ms
Sohini Basu was a superb
We love mail! Write in to piece. Savoured every word
[email protected] of it thoroughly.

@MahajanPaul
Unseen and beautiful
paradises are finally being
discovered. One only needs
an eye to appreciate it.

6 se p t e m b e r 2 0 2 0

BEST BEST
COVID-READY STRONGER
INNOVATION TOGETHER

EFFORT

2021 BEST
FUTURE-FORWARD

STATE

BEST BEST
ALTERNATIVE RESPONSIBLE
LIVELIHOOD COMMUNICATION

INITIATIVE CAMPAIGN

TO APPLY, LOG ON TO responsibletourismindia.com

ResponsibleTourism outlook_rt outlook_responsibletourism

TRAVE L PROMOTION

Rejuvenated through a long hiatus,
Odisha’s enigmatic wilderness is
opening up to welcome you
into its cosy embrace. Rejoice and
rejuvenate, responsibly

Responsible
TourismÀ laOdisha

O disha boasts 47 Ecotour Today, over 600 trained community revenues of over `1 crore by hosting over
properties with about 300 members are directly engaged in hosting 4,000 visitors per year. This initiative has
accommodations (cottages, and serving visitors with unmatched won several awards, the most recent
tents, treehouses, etc) simplicity and supreme quality. The being India’s Best Ecotourism Initiative at
across its length and breadth, in diverse project has emerged as a sustainable FICCI’s Travel & Tourism Awards 2019.
ecosystems such as beaches, forests income generator for local communities
and protected areas, hill stations, tribal whose lives earlier were heavily Tourists can pick their choice—those
hinterlands, riverbanks and wetlands. dependent on forest resources like desiring to simply retreat to nature’s
Of the state’s total population, around honey, firewood, etc. In addition to those nest can opt for frugal retreats, while
83 per cent resides in rural and other who are directly employed in the camps, explorers with a zest for adventure
non-urban areas. Their role in conserving five to six villages around each property may go and experience the rich nature
the natural ecosystems and resources is now earn their livelihoods indirectly camps. If the beach is beckoning you,
undoubtedly pivotal. by providing daily requirements to the choose to camp literally a few steps
units by selling vegetables, handmade away from the waves at Bichitrapur,
In 2016, Odisha’s Forest & Environment articles, milk, transport facilities, etc. Habalikhati, Nuanai or Rajhans and
Department initiated its ‘Community Prominent units in Similipal and Satkosia Berhampura Nature Camps. If mystic
Managed Nature Tourism’ model with the Tiger Reserves have excelled, generating highs are your calling, reach for
local community as prime stakeholders. Kandhamal’s uncharted beauty in

TRAVE L PROMOTION

Clockwise from facing page: Chitrakonda at Malkangiri;
off-roading in the water; forest officials at Hirakud; and
Ecotour hosts

Daringbadi, Mandasaru’s Silent Valley costs. Hygienic and wholesome meals members are being trained on-site in
and Phulbani or strap up your trekking are included in the package. Tourists 10-day batches, which are inter alia
gear for Saptasajya. Odisha’s waterfalls can enjoy their share of leisure with imparting soft and technical skills which
and cascades are amongst its most abandon, through a host of activities will help up the experience quotient.
serendipitous surprises; visitors can book such as cycling, birding, jungle trails,
stays at Sanaghagara, Khandadhar and boating, outdoor games or stepping For those looking for a sabbatical
Barehipani. Serious wildlife buffs and to the beats with locals by the bonfire. to unwind, it’s a great idea to hit the
shutterbugs can opt for Mangalajodi in Stays and other services can be booked beautiful roads that connect Odisha’s
Chilika, Ramtirtha/ Jamuani/ Kumari through their sites odishatourism.gov.in beautiful landscapes. At a time when the
in Similipal, Tikarpada/ Chhotkei in or ecotourodisha.com. tourism and hospitality sector, reeling
Satkosia, Debrigarh or Dangamala/ Gupti from the pandemic’s hit, is looking to
in Bhitarkanika National Park. With the focus on the future, spring back, Ecotour Odisha offers a
Department of Tourism and Department vacation with a cause.
With tariffs ranging from just of Forest & Environment has jointly
over `2,000 for a double-bedded initiated a training course for Ecotour
accommodation to `9,000 for a Odisha staff in COVID-19 risk control
10-bedded dormitory a night, Ecotour and mitigation in collaboration with IHM
Odisha offers max experience at min and IITTM. The ecotourism community

radar He r e ,
there,
now &

soon

Land of Yogis 12

•

Hazratganj 14

•

The Dan ish
Summer 16

•

Rhythm Of The
Rain 17

Not the

Hippie Trail

X DELHI TO LONDON BUS

If you’re looking for the silver lining to this pandemic, it’s
what the millennials have been saying all along—YOLO.
We’re not about to spell that out for you, but here’s
what we will spell out: 20,000 kilometres, 70 days,

18 countries, two continents, one bus ride. Sounds
ludicrous? Not anymore.

This reverse Hippie Trail (it does come back that
route, though) is quite the Eat, Pray, Love journey.
You will Eat the cake and have it too in the lap of
luxury, ricketing (probably not) through the
Silk Route in 4 and 5 star hotels. You will
Pray to the ‘Old Gods and the New’ for your
Central Asian escapade. And you’ll Love
the fact that although you’re R15
lakh poorer, you’re a European
experience-of-a-lifetime
richer.

20 lucky wanderers will
undertake this land voyage
in May 2021. The company,
Adventures Overland,
will offer four packages
to choose from. You can
Hop On-Hop Off through
Southeast Asia to China,

through Central Asia
to Russia, and through
Europe to London,
individually. Or you can go
all the way, taking in the
sights, sounds and everything in between.

Visas, hotels, meals, guides, tours, permits, are all taken
care of by the company, but it’s going to be BYOB: buy
your own booze!

Can’t have it all now, can we?

� Individual legs will be priced accordingly, and 5 per
cent GST will be added to all costs

� bustolondon.in

radar Vrikshasana: Word to the Wise
the Tree Pose “During the changing season as the
t h e y o g a pa g e temperature drops suddenly, our
Perhaps one of the most common asanas, immunity takes a hit too. To stay safe
Vrikshasana has a number of benefits in follow these simple eating rules:
store for practitioners. It stretches the legs,
back and arms, while improving balance and » Give the digestive system a break
concentration. The tree pose has allegedly also and avoid processed foods,
helped alleviate certain cases of sciatica. Practice too much meat, and go
caution while doing this pose if you suffer gluten-free.
from migraines, insomnia, low or high » Have lots of fruits and
blood pressure. Always consult your vegetables to score enough
doctor before trying any new form fibre and antioxidants to
of exercise. proactively boost immunity.”
How to do Vrikshasana Kavita Devgan is a renowned nutritionist,
1. Stand tall with your back straight and arms by columnist, author and speaker on health
and lifestyle. Grab her latest book Fix
your side it with Food to learn more about eating
2. Bend one knee at a time and place your foot simpler, and living longer.

flat in the inner thigh of the opposite leg On Trend: Goat Yoga
3. Once you find your balance, bring your hands to A wildly popular trend circa
2017, goat yoga is quite the fun-
a namaste filled, furry-footed venture. Yoga
4. Straighten your body and spine, and relax your practitioners from various levels get
downward and dirty with baby goats
muscles as you take deep breaths in and out hop-skip-and-jumping all over them.
5. You can slowly raise your arms straight above Re-upped by its feature on Netflix’s
Indian Matchmaking, it’s the one form
your head while maintaining the namaste of yoga where it’s totally acceptable
6. Slowly bring your arms back to your side and to be stuck in child’s pose while
snuggling a fuzzy goat-ling. Don’t
your foot back on the ground know about you but we certainly
7. Repeat with the other leg don’t mind holding a plank if there’s a
baby goat hopping around our backs!
12 S e p t e m b e r 2 0 2 0

Vinyasa Radar

This form focuses on rapid and continuous
movements flowing from one posture to the
next. Synchronised breathing is an important
aspect of Vinyasa.

Hatha Kundalini t h e y o g a pa g e

This form aims to relax your body Kundalini is said to awaken
and mind with physical asanas and the energy at the base of the
breathing exercises like pranayam. spine and bring it through the
Hatha yoga is the most seven chakras with postures,
common type of yoga and
is perfect for beginners. breathing, chanting
mantras and meditation.

Land of Yogis

The practice of yoga has evolved and morphed into a host of different forms
across the world; some intriguing, some not. But yoga in India is different—it’s
organic, and has as much to do with spirituality as physical exercise. Let’s take

a look at the six basic forms of yoga in the country.

Sivananda Ashtanga Iyengar

A type of Hatha yoga, this includes Similar to Vinyasa, Ashtanga Established by yogi BKS Iyengar,
a surya namaskar and goes focusses on a set order of asanas this form pays great attention to
through the 12 asanas created by steadily increasing in difficulty. the muscle alignment and finer
Swami Sivananda. It’s physically taxing and details within each pose.
significantly heats the body.

outlook traveller 13

Radar Around the A B
block
Royal CAFÉ With a Burma Biscuit
14 legacy of 40 years, Company The bakery-
it’s known for its cum-patisserie has been
X Downtown delectable street food in business since 1944
Area in Central • J800 for two with a loyal patronage
Lucknow • J100 for two
� Do not miss out
their signature � Try their iconic cakes
Basket Chaat and muffins

HazratganjLucknow’sEpicentre
Nawabi and British style of architecture C
Affordable join hands with nostalgia to bring you all
Street things vintage. Shree Gandhi Ashram
Shopping Khadi Gramudyog
5 Bhavan
•• From Khadi silk saris
to organic skincare
Lucknow’s products, everything
Iconic Eateries under one roof

•• 5 Keep an eye out for brick
E and mortar shops, selling
Vintage second-hand books and unique
Cinemas 4 stationery items.

•• b C Explore the market
D CA post sundown for an
Walk Through unparalleled experience.
History 43 2
1
•• 1
B
Street Food
Heaven

32

Look for A casual stroll A
Atal Chowk around the market
in maps here is colloquially
called ‘ganjing’.
Metro:
Hazratganj eat
Metro shop
Station

14 S e p t e m b e r 2 0 2 0

It’s almost a 1 Kashmir Govt Arts 3 Sugandh Co. Iconic Buildings Radar
steal Emporium Authentic Attars, essential oils
Kashmiri handicrafts and fragrances
Fragrances • Chikankari •
2 Nazrana Chikan 4 Love Lane Haggle
Knick-Knacks • Handicrafts Chikan kurtas for a good deal

A General Post C Sahu Cinema Around the block

Office Single screen theatre

Gothic-style since 1932

building, formerly

Ring Theatre, used D Minoo & Dinshaw

for screening English Booksellers

films and dramas Iconic bookshop

B Universal E Mayfair
Booksellers Building A former
A fourth-generation theatre, ballroom
bookshop with an and restaurant for
80-year-legacy the British

Eat the world 1 Cooperative Indian 6 The Cherry
Coffee House Tree CAFÉ
From sweet to Oldest coffee shop in Cheesecakes,
savoury, what’s Lucknow grandma’s tea cakes
your pick? and choco-chip cookies
2 JJ Bakers
Do not miss Cakes and speciality
out on the breads
hole-in-
the-wall 3 Moti Mahal
paan shops Imarti and rabri
that have
a variety of 4 Chowdhury Sweet
offerings. House
Iconic ice creams

5 Bajpayee Kachodi
Bhandar
Legendary breakfast joint

Compiled by Simrran gill outlook traveller 15
Illustrated by Rangeet Ghosh

Radar Man in ↙ Living in Sweden for over 12
europe years, he hopes to travel the
world in a boat
16

Nitin Chaudhary

The Danish Summer

T his summer has been an neighbourhood in all of Denmark. It is Nyhavn is marked by old
exceptional one in Scandinavia. On marked by old pastel-coloured buildings pastel-coloured buildings
most days, temperature soared in the high and a waterfront, where Danes and tourists and a waterfront, where
twenties, the sun beamed unrestrained sit in open-air cafés eating smørrebrød Danes and tourists sit
from any passing clouds, and the blue sandwiches. There was a mild cheer in the in open-air cafés eating
waters of the Baltic Sea shimmered air, and artists occupied corners of this smørrebrød sandwiches
underneath. On days like these, Danes, neighbourhood street, punctuating it
declared the happiest people in the with their flair. to yet another favourite spot of mine in
world, pour out on the Strøget, the city’s Copenhagen—Tivoli.
pedestrian street. I sat at a waterfront café, sipping coffee,
breathing the air infused with the smell To the outsiders, Tivoli may seem like
Last week, on one such sunny afternoon, of the sea, listening to the songs from the just another amusement park. To the
I decided to take a stroll on the Strøget. street singer, and watching expensive yachts locals, it means much more. Tivoli threw
Denmark had just recently allowed people bobbing up and down in the Öresund its gates open in 1841, when a Dane, Georg
from southern Sweden in, and I didn’t want Straight. At this moment, everything Carstensen, inspired by all the amusement
to let go of the opportunity to visit one of looked fine. Although just for a few parks that he had seen abroad, sought the
my favourite cities in the world. hours, we all seemed to have collectively Danish king's permission to open one in
dropped the fear and decided that things Copenhagen. Such was its success that even
Strøget runs from the town centre are normal. I relished this semblance of Walt Disney took inspiration from Tivoli
Rådhuspladsen through the shopping normalcy with each sip of coffee. I left the and tried to replicate Tivoli’s mood and
thoroughfare of Copenhagen to Nyhavn. festivity of Nyhavn behind me as I walked atmosphere for his parks.
Nyhavn is perhaps the most recognisable
In normal times, I would have taken a few
rides, and relished the artificially generated
thrill. But today I decided to stay on the
ground and watch others hop into their
rides. On the bench where I sat, next to me
sat a man eating ice cream. He was perhaps
in his late fifties. He saw me observing him,
and smiled back.

“I have been doing this for the past 40
years,” he said. “Eating ice cream here every
summer.” Not everyone comes to Tivoli
to take the rides. I decided to give him
company and got myself an ice cream as
well. There we sat, a safe two metres apart,
eating ice creams at Tivoli on this warm,
sunny afternoon.

Above us, the carousel twirled, and the
kids in it hollered in euphoria.

↖ Nyhavn is perhaps the most recognisable
neighbourhood in all of Denmark

Illustration: Nitin Chaudhary

16 S e p t e m b e r 2 0 2 0

Radar

X Mandu Rising up from the depths of X Orchha Dreaming of revisiting the X Rajgad Fort Swatches of green Insta traveller
shimmering emerald waters past in the present adorning the royal abode

@_mr_n_i_k @we_luv_bundelkhand @travelling_lats

X Telangana A deep manifested past Rhythm of
buried under the setting sun the Rain

@whatever_tania As the thunderclap paves the
way for light showers, it’s time
to hit the road. These are the
getaways we can’t get over!

@animeshkshatriya

Murud, MAHARASHTRA
Undefeated and unexplored, the
remnants of the royal past lie in the
heart of the sea

X Udaipur The city of lakes recalls the X Sajjan Garh Some paths can’t be X Chittor Fort A historical marvel
elegance of a bygone era discovered without getting lost shrouded in myths and legends

@ankit_rinayat @cinematicronnie @archnaaaah

outlook traveller 17

TRAVE L PROMOTION

Beyond The
Temple Run

A melange of all things young and old, Tamil Nadu’s extensive platter meets

every kind of traveller’s needs, often leaving you spoilt for choice

TRAVE L PROMOTION

The thousand
pillar mandapam

TRAVE L PROMOTION Heritage, nature or wildlife.
What’s your pick? Occupying
the bottom stretch of the Located at the confluence of
Coromandel Coast, Tamil three seas, Kanyakumari's
Nadu sits comfortably in the lap of tranquil aura is contrasted by
nature. Supremely rich in culture and the roaring tides of the sea
heritage, it is home to the ancient Chola
Dynasty, the state has a wealth of temple
architecture. A social-distancing friendly
destination, especially in the hill stations,
the towering mountains and charming
landscape offer countless reasons as
to why this southern gem should be
your next vacation destination post
the pandemic.

Step Back In Time
The rich history of Tamil Nadu has
resulted in many notable sights across
the state. Its diversity is best exemplified
in the plethora of religious sites including
a number of churches, mosques and
even Buddhist monasteries.
The Chola dynasty that ruled the region
till the 13th century is credited with
the most outstanding temples that
showcase the grandeur of the bygone
era. During their reign of nearly 1,500
years, the Chola temples became the
hub of economic, political and cultural
activities. Head to the Great Living Chola
Temples, a Unesco World Heritage Site,
to witness their architectural brilliance.
The site includes three great temples—
the Brihadeeswarar Temple at Thanjavur,
the Airavatesvara Temple at Darasuram
and the Gangaikonda Cholapuram
Temple at Jayankondam.

Many of the heritage buildings
like the Chettinad mansions have
now been converted into heritage
hotels. Their unique architecture,
peaceful ambience and delectable
cuisine are great tourist attractions.

The Group of Monuments at
Mahabalipuram, another Unesco
World Heritage Site, is a collection of
monolithic monuments built by the
Pallava kings in the 7th and 8th centuries.
The rock sculptures are inspired by tales
from Mahabharata and are a sight to
behold. Some of the prominent ones
are Arjuna’s Penance, Pancha Rathas,

TRAVE L PROMOTION

Clockwise from here: Pancha Rathas;
Vivekananda Rock Memorial and statue

of poet Thiruvalluvar; Airavatesvara
temple in Darasuram; and Chettinad

mansion in Kanadukathan

TRAVE L PROMOTION Situated in the Nilgiri Mountains, the little town of Ooty served
as a getaway for the British in the pre-independence era

The tranquil hill Varaha Mandapam, Mahisha suramarthini TRAVE L PROMOTION
station of Valparai Mandapa etc., Located in the heart of
in Coimbatore Madurai, the Meenakshi Temple, built in
6th century BC, is one of the most iconic
attractions down south. Madurai situated
on the banks of River Vaigai, has a rich
cultural heritage passed on from the
great Tamil Sangam era which is more
than 2500 years old. It was the capital
city of Pandya Kings. Meenakshi Temple
is dedicated to Parvathi or Meenakshi –
the consort of Lord Shiva. It is a splendid
example of Dravidian Architecture. The
temple has doors in all four directions for
devotees to enter. However, it’s the Koodal
Azhagar Temple here that is believed
to be older than the Meenakshi Temple.
Dedicated to Lord Vishnu, one can spot
the three varied statues in different
postures—standing, sitting and reclining.

Along the Coast
With the Indian Ocean in the south
and the Bay of Bengal in the east, this
Tamil Nadu is the perfect destination
for a beach holiday. Each beach has its
own charm with resorts and tiny cafés
serving delicacies as you gaze into that
picture-perfect sunset.

Apart from the monolithic structures,
the sandy beach of Mahabalipuram also
attracts hordes of tourists from all over
the world. If you love swimming and
windsurfing then this is the ideal spot for
you. The Mahabalipuram Dance Festival
held during winters every year is another
reason to hit this beach town.

Do not miss out on the seafare at
Olaikuda, a small fishing village in
Rameshwaram, replete with coral
reefs, ideal for scuba divers.

The southernmost tip of the Indian
mainland, Kanyakumari is located at the
confluence of the Bay of Bengal, the
Indian Ocean and the Arabian Sea. Its
tranquil aura is contrasted by the roaring
tides of the sea, making it the perfect
getaway for those who prefer the solitude
of a less-touristy beach. The sight of the
waves striking the rocks makes for an
alluring visual. While in Kanyakumari,
you can pay your respects to goddess
Kanya Kumari at the 3,000-year-
old Kumari Amman Temple, visit the

TRAVE L PROMOTION Padmanabhapuram Palace and the
century-old lighthouse. A memorial
dedicated to Swami Vivekananda, 500
meters from main land, accessible by a
ferry service and gigantic 40 meters high
statue of Tiruvalluvar, a great poet – saint
are major attractions.

If you’re looking to get away from
the bustle of city life, then you surely
need a holiday to the ‘lost town’ of
Dhanushkodi at the southernmost end of
Rameshwaram. Surrounded by the Bay
of Bengal on one side and Indian Ocean
on the other, Dhanushkodi Beach offers
a chance to encounter the thrills of sea
surfing. With every beach extraordinary
in its own sense, it is a sweet addition to
your Tamil Nadu vacation.

Encounter Nature’s Bounty more situated in the Western Ghats, it most popular hill stations in the region.
There’s no doubt that Tamil Nadu is a offers ample scope for eco-tourism. Situated in the Nilgiri Mountains, this
nature lover’s paradise. With its quaint little town served as a getaway for the
hill stations, including the likes of Ooty, Known as the ‘Queen of Hills’, Ooty British in the pre-independent era. A boat
Kodaikanal, Coonoor, Yelagiri and many or Udhagamandalam is one of the

Kodaikanal, nestled in the Palani Hills TRAVE L PROMOTION
is perfect for those looking for something
a bit more offbeat and away from the
typical touristy crowd. Be it a boat ride
along the star-shaped Kodaikanal Lake
or capturing the ethereal beauty from
the Pillar Rocks, where three vertical
granite boulders play hide and seek with
mists, this resort town creates the ideal
setting for you to connect with nature.
Apart from its manicured cliffs and rolling
slopes, the charming hill station is known
for its mesmeric cascading waterfalls.
The Bear Shola Falls and Vattakanal Falls
are both sights to behold especially
during the monsoons.

Clockwise from here: the endangered Nilgiri tahr; ride the Nilgiri Mountain Railway; Into the Wild
the ancient Brihadeeswarar Temple; and Vedanthangal, one of the oldest bird With as many as 15 wildlife and bird
sanctuaries in India sanctuaries, five national parks and four
tiger reserves, the sheer number of
ride at Ooty Lake can be very refreshing. Endowed with an abundance of flora and fauna is incentive enough for
If a heritage ride is on your mind, then natural wealth, the hinterlands of travellers to visit the state.
the Nilgiri Mountain Railway is just the Tamil Nadu are perfect for trekking.
one for you. Declared a Unesco World Book a curated walking tour for a Located at the foothills of the Nilgiris,
Heritage Site in 2005, it was first built by peaceful escape. Mudumalai National Park is a must-visit
the British in 1908. The train runs from on a first timer’s itinerary. Established in
Mettupalayam to Udagamandalam, via might even spot wild cats and peacocks. 1940, it is an integral part of the Nilgiri
Coonoor. As the train chugs over bridges, You can spend the night at the forest Biosphere Reserve. Home to many
be prepared to be awed by the vistas of boat house near Pykara Lake. The endangered species like the royal
mountains, valleys and tea plantations highest point in the Nilgiri Mountains, the Bengal tiger and the Asiatic wild dog,
along the way. Doddabetta Peak in Ooty is a real treat to reports suggest that nearly 13 per cent
the eyes, offering a breathtaking view of of the mammal species in India can be
The journey to upper Bhavani Lake the city's skyline. found in Mudumalai. Bird watchers are
located within the deep jungles is in for a ride as one can spot the crested
worthwhile and if you are lucky you serpent eagle and the tiny-eared owl.

Catch a glimpse of the wild cats at
the Anamalai Tiger Reserve. Situated in
the Anamalai Hills of Coimbatore, the
reserve is home to not only tigers but
many other species such as spotted deer
and panthers. A biodiversity hotspot in its
truest sense, you can find more than 250
species of birds here.

Offering a real insight into urban
wilderness, the Guindy National Park in
Chennai serves as the humble abode
of a large number of migratory birds,
reptiles, blackbucks, jackals, pangolins
and Indian civets among many others.
For the adventure lovers, Mukurthi
National Park in
the Nilgiri Hills
has some of the
most beautiful
trekking routes
up its sleeve.

Explore Re g u l a r s

Regular 26life is Short,

and the world
is wide

explore

Photograph: Shutterstock

26 j u ly 2 0 2 0

Photograph: Shutterstock Explore

Regular

Th e kon k an
coast 36

•

Don’t worry, be
hampi 48

•

To the lair
of the flying

Tigress 56

Padmasambhava, or Guru Rinpoche,
is said to have meditated in about 13
small monasteries in the 8th century.
He meditated for four months at the
Taktsang Monastery, one of the 13
‘tiger lairs’, before vanquishing local
demons in Paro. He is credited with the
introduction of Buddhism in Bhutan.

outlook traveller 27

Explore

the list 28

longThe the list

journey

*** *** ***

Coastal Drives Nature Trails Heritage

Kerala, Goa, Madhya Pradesh, Uttar Pradesh,
Odisha Uttarakhand Rajasthan

Photographs: Shutterstock

Explore

* Nainital is known as the lake district the list
of India and the famous Naini Lake is
surrounded by legends and myths

Luggage, check. Fuel, check. Uttarakhand
Playlist, check. The next step in
2020 is to hop into your car and hit The state boasts of some of the most
the road for the timeless road-trip spectacular driving routes through the Himalaya
along familiar routes. Here’s Team
Exercise extreme patience while out
OT reading the map for you in the wild

The 95-kilometre drive from Nainital to Binsar
through the gorgeous Himalaya is as breathtaking
as it can get. The serene route offers an unparalleled
view of gorges, waterfalls and sublime natural vistas.
Escape into the Himalayan wildlife en route at the
Binsar Wildlife Sanctuary in the remote, mighty
mountains. An integral part of the Kumaon region,
it boasts of 200 species of flora and fauna. Further
along the treacherous valleys is the undiscovered,
hauntingly beautiful, drive from Binsar to Pangot.
Stop for a layover at Pangot’s Kilbury Bird Sanctuary
to spot innumerable rare migratory birds. The
town’s vast, lush expanse also includes several
hiking trails and some beautiful rapids and streams.
Drive through the terrain for about two hours to
Ramnagar and treat your senses to an ethereal,
natural escape at the Kaladhungi Waterfalls and the
Jim Corbett wildlife circuit.

� The Kilbury Sanctuary is home to exotic bird
species like white-throated thrushes, rufous-
bellied woodpeckers and the striated prinia

outlook traveller 29

Explore * Catch a glimpse of the intricate art Odisha
installations at the Sudam Sand Art
Museum while driving from Puri to Konark The land of beaches and temples, Odisha is a
treasure hidden in plain sight
the list
Be mindful of the religious sentiments
at the temples

Embark on a journey and encounter India’s bygone
era at the Udayagiri and Khandagiri Caves. These caves
uncover India’s ancient secrets in the form of carvings
of royal scenes and hunting parties from Ashoka’s reign.
Drive further south and find yourself in the biggest salt
water lagoon in Asia—Lake Chilika. You may even spot
a dolphin during the sunset boat ride. The next leg of
the leisure drive brings you to Puri. A soulful dip in the
Bay of Bengal is sure to wipe away the city conundrum.
Stroll through the town to sample some authentic and
delectable Odia food. A drive along the shoreline will
take you to Konark, where a guided tour of the Sun
Temple is a must. Make sure to stop at the Olive Ridley
Sea Turtle Reserve on the way. Drive to Bhitarkanika
National Park, a RAMSAR site for its wetlands, and catch
a glimpse of salt water crocodiles and rhesus monkeys.

� Visit the Jagannath Temple during dawn to get a
crowd-free experience

Uttar Pradesh * An hour’s drive from Varanasi is Bhadohi, a
hub for handwoven rugs. This art form was
From the ghats of Varanasi to the marble splendour brought to India by Iranian travellers
of Taj Mahal, this drive is a delight

Nov-Feb is the ideal time to visit

Saffron-hued skies, echoing chants and loquacious
priests. Kickstart your journey at Varanasi, and let
the effervescent Ganga aarti take over your senses.
Situated at the Triveni Sangam—the junction of Ganga,
Yamuna and Saraswati—is Prayagraj. Lined with Hindu
temples, travellers often find spiritual solace at the
Triveni Ghat. Situated on the banks of the Yamuna is
the Prayagraj Fort, which is believed to have given the
city its former name, Allahabad. To tantalize your taste
buds drive further to the land of the Awadhi Nawabs—
Lucknow. Separated by the majestic Rumi Darwaza,
the old city of Lucknow still retains its nawabi charm.
Whether you decide to gorge on the Awadhi biryani
or Rahim’s kulcha-nihari, the feast will be overloaded
with secrets from the royal kitchens. Transition from
the Awadhi to the Mughal legacy, with a short drive to
Agra and end your journey at the lovely Taj.

� Uttar Pradesh has birthed many literary legends,
such as Kabir Das, Tulsidas and Premchand

3 0 se p t e m b e r 2 0 2 0

* Rajasthan’s capital city, Jaipur, was Explore
founded in 1727 by Jai Singh II, who
was also the ruler of Amer

the list

Rajasthan The Oscar-winning
filmmaker Satyajit Ray
Drive through the land of kings and witness their shot his first children’s
fortified grandeur film, the iconic Sonar Kella,
at the Jaisalmer Fort.
Best time to visit Rajasthan is winters

A 13-kilometre drive from the Pink City to the majestic
Amer fort for an evening of cultural rendition of history
and folk legends is a sublime way to kickstart your
Rajasthan trip. If you fancy yourself an unconventional
traveller, then head to Shekhawati, a major ancient
caravan trade route. People often find themselves
lost in the royal musings within the havelis that are
filled with elaborate frescos, intricate jali carvings and
legacies. Drive along to Pushkar—one of the oldest cities
in India—to indulge in timeless architectural heritage,
temple trails and mythology. Follow the next leg of the
drive to Kumbhalgarh Fort and witness India’s very own
great wall, built to ward off the invading Mughal armies.
An alternate route to experience the magnificent
desert state is beginning your journey from Churu, a
gateway to the mighty Thar. Drive further along and
find yourself in Bikaner, the city of dunes and gorgeous
sunsets. Retreat while in Jaisalmer, where the fort
awaits you with its countless secrets.

� Check the timings of the light and sound show at
Amer Fort, as they may differ with the seasons

outlook traveller 31

Explore Madhya
Pradesh
the list
Culture, history and wildlife thrive hand-in-
hand here

Oct-Mar is the ideal time to visit
Get a wild start to your journey at the
Bandhavgarh National Park with an open-jeep
safari. Many might say you’re lucky if you spot a
tiger, but we place our bets on the leopards and
jackals. A 4-hour-drive from here will take you
to Bhedaghat, where myriad layers of spirituality
and mythology unfold at the Chausath Yogini
Temple dedicated to goddess Durga. For the
intrepid traveller, the Dhuandhar Falls is also
a sight to behold as the waters of the Narmada
River cascade down from an altitude giving
rise to a daunting mist. If your personal travel
style edges towards serenity, a boat ride on the
Narmada River is our pick. A further drive paves
way for a Unesco Biosphere Reserve famed for
its flora and fauna, Pachmarhi. Enter the last leg
of your journey at Bhimbetka where the rock
shelter cave paintings, a Unesco World Heritage
Site, transport you 12,000 years back in time.
� Bandhavgarh remains closed during the
monsoons and reopens in October

* The food preferences here change every
few kilometres. Make sure to treat your
taste buds to all local delicacies

3 2 se p t e m b e r 2 0 2 0

Explore

the list

outlook traveller 33

Explore If you find some extra time
on your hands, drive through
the list the Western Ghat roads
and witness the majestic
Dudhsagar Falls.

Goa

Drive past the jaunty beach shacks to discover Goa
like never before

Ideal time to visit is Nov-Feb
For those who equate Goa with booze and parties,
beginning your drive the traditional way at Palolem
is a promising start. With long stretches of powdery
sand beaches flanked by coconut palms and beach
huts, Palolem is synonymous with leisure. Leave the
waves on a high and head to the Cabo de Rama fort.
The view atop this forgotten gem transports you back
to Goa’s yesteryears. Ride to Margao and get a taste of
the local life. Further along north, find yourself amid
architecturally abundant churches and cathedrals left
behind by the Portuguese. Drive past them to reach
Panjim and take a walk around this charming town. If
walking is not your thing, take a cycling tour here and
roam freely between the beaches, some more churches,
and colourful streets. Re-energise and drive on to the
charismatic Aguada fort. Sit on its fortifications before
starting an exploratory trail of the beaches that lie
ahead. Cover Candolim, Calangute, Baga, Anjuna, and
Vagator one by one, and camp at your preferred one,
each more astounding than the other.
� Visit the Noronha’s Corner Food Truck in Anjuna
for a true Goan feast

Kerala Explore

Serene beaches, perfectly-lined beach houses the list
and calming long walks on the soft sand

Sep-Mar is the ideal time to visit
Begin the first leg of the drive at Varkala, where
the crack of dawn feels otherworldly. A further
drive along the charismatic shoreline up north
will take you to Alappuzha. This lagoon-bound
heaven, famous for its backwaters, has often
found global mentions for its serenity. Further
along, enter the old, fort town of Kochi and
quickly escape to its beaches, looking upon
the azure sea, and its forgotten fortifications.
Part ways with this historic town only to enter
another in Kozhikode. From Kappad—believed to
be where Vasco Da Gama first landed in India—
to the busy Kozhikode beach, this renowned
Malabar town has it all. Indulge in the mouth-
watering, unique street delicacies before driving
up north to Kasaragod. A gem hidden in plain
sight, this is the northern-most tip of Kerala and
home to the Bekal Fort. Located on the Bekal
beach, this fort tells tales of its colonial past
while teasing travellers with its untapped beauty.
� Make an extra pit-stop at Muzhappilangad,
Kerala’s only drive-in beach in Kannur

Travellers can also choose to spend a
tranquil evening watching the fishermen
community working on fishing nets from
Alappuzha to Kochi.

outlook traveller 35

Explore Re g u l a r s

g a n pa t i p u l e 36

36

ganpatipule

Nirvana in the

Konkan

3 6 se p t e m b e r 2 0 2 0

Photographs: Shutterstock Explore

↓ The virgin beach of
Ganpatipule makes for
a peaceful getaway

T g a n pa t i p u l e

*** They say the powdery white sand
here glows at night
Beach lover
And changes hues at sunset. Though the few beaches
Oceanfront, white- around Ganpatipule cannot be compared to the serene
sand beaches, and backwaters that Kerala offers, they still continue to
remain one of the crown jewels of Maharashtra and one
warm waters of the state’s most famous images. Precisely the reason
why this less-explored destination (I prefer to call it
*** less explored because it almost never makes it to the
list while planning a beach holiday, with more known
Ethnic touch options like Alibaug and Goa always vying for the top
spot) deserves to be seen and experienced. In the current
Ancient temples, old scenario, where international travel seems a long way
forts, and natural off and exploring destinations closer home is the most
beauty plausible option, a getaway to this coastal town is ideal
for someone craving for that one quick weekend escape.
***
Once used to transport coconuts and spices, this
Coastal sleepy town is known for its flavorful cuisine and warm
flavours hospitality today. Dotting the Konkan coastline, nearly
25 kilometres from Ratnagiri and situated towards the
Malvani seafood, southern end of Maharashtra, it has ample potential
aamras, and to grow into a major tourist magnet of sorts. For
what it probably lacks in sophistication, it more than
sumptuous modaks makes up for it in its spectacular white sand beaches,
archaeological marvels and tropical climate. Taking a
A gem hidden in plain sight, plunge in the warm waters here and enjoying a cocktail
is simply the perfect antidote to a hot sultry afternoon.
Ame ya Bu nd e ll u
To savour authentic coastal seafood, especially
reveals all that Ganpatipule holds in its the day’s fresh catch, do not forget to dine at
little lap of nature Sameer, considered the city’s best.

Seafood lovers are in for a treat and can relish a
variety of fish thalis served at the local eateries.
Diners from all walks of life flock to these no-
frills joints to savour the lip-smacking surmai
(king fish) and prawn thali.

outlook traveller 37

Explore While no one is

g a n pa t i p u l e quite sure

How tourists stumbled upon
Ganpatipule, Maharashtrian and Gujarati
families from Mumbai and Pune have
frequently been visiting Ratnagiri, and
especially Ganpatipule for over a few
centuries for the famed Swayambhu
Ganpati Temple, believed to be around
400 years old. Two beautiful idols of Lord
Ganesha can be found here, one made
out of white sand and the other made
of bronze. With a hill in its immediate
background that resembles Lord
Ganesha, most visitors make it a point to
circumambulate the hillock as a mark of
respect to the deity.

Though the place hasn’t changed
significantly over the years, it was only

↑ Spot a starfish ↓ The iconic ↑ A traditional
on the golden Swayambhu Konkani spread
sands of the beach Ganpati Temple is is incomplete
four centuries old without kokum

3 8 se p t e m b e r 2 0 2 0

a matter of time until tourists started The beach town of Velneshwar There is no Explore
flocking the town for its dazzling beaches is approx. 40kms away from
and the growing number of upscale Ganpatipule. The crescent- greater love g a n pa t i p u l e
hotels and homestays. I checked into the shaped beach with a shrine to
eco-chic Blue Ocean Resort & Spa. With Lord Shiva is worth visiting. Than the love of food. Delve deep into one
rooms that boast of contemporary decor of Maharashtra’s most distinct coastal
and elegant artworks that adorn the walls, charming waterfront cottages. food cultures at Ganpatipule. Discerning
the beach-front villas and sea views could Travellers with modest budgets have locals can be seen haggling for the freshest
stop the most world-weary traveller in produce and seafare at the local market. For
their tracks. Set in lush greenery opposite long flocked here. However, Ganpatipule a wholesome Maharashtrian vegetarian
the crescent-shaped Malgund Beach, over the last few years has also caught the thali complete with aamras (seasonal) and
across Arrey Warrey Road and against the eye of vacationers with deep pockets. And ukadiche modak it doesn’t get any better than
backdrop of coconut palms, the property while it may now seem like a versatile Mehendale’s Swaad Dining.
has an idyllic setting. Enjoy the fine spa slice of holiday heaven with luxury villas,
or laze around the pool side, basking in wellness retreats and laidback homestays, Honestly, it is the calmness of everyday
the shade. A few old traditional houses what stands out is the fact that it has life—witnessing fishermen in their
of Ganpatipule have also been converted still managed to retain its original ethnic traditional longboats, children splashing
into homestays including a number of and cultural vibe. offshore, fishing birds of a certain species—
that makes it hard to imagine a better
setting to rejuvenate one’s body and soul.

traveller ganpatipule

Nearest Airport: Mumbai (317kms, 10 hours to Malgund) x Jaigad Fort Coastal
Drive From Mumbai to Ganpatipule; halt at Chiplun for its sandy beaches, fortification protected
mangroves and cashew plantations under the Archaeological
Survey of India
Around theTown
x Lighthouse Located
Getting Around atop the peninsular tip,
the lighthouse dates back
x Rickshaws and taxis are easily nearly two centuries
available, however, tourists prefer
self or chauffeur-driven cars x Beach Hopping Drive
x Motorcycles and bicycles are along Guhagar Beach,
also available for rent Malgund Beach and
Bhandarpule Beach

x Nivali Waterfalls
45mins drive from
Ganpatipule

Do not miss What to Eat

Alphonso mangoes x Traditional fish thali includes the fresh catch of
of the Devgad the day (pomfret or mackerel—fried or
variety, cashew made into a spicy curry), multigrain
nuts, kokum bhakri, sol kadi and rice
sherbet and local
mango pickle x Wholesome
Maharashtrian vegetarian
thali comprises of puri,
aamras (seasonal), kokum
curry and steamed modaks

outlook traveller 39

TRAVE L PROMOTION

Layered
Antiquity

Photograph: Shutterstock

Monks paying TRAVE L PROMOTION
respect to
the place of
enlightenment
of the Buddha in
Bodh Gaya

From its cities to its small towns and villages,
Bihar is a treasure trove for travellers, who find
themselves hit with a wave of euphoria here

TRAVE L PROMOTION Located to the east of the country, evident from its name, derived from the months meditating and preaching, and
Bihar is one of the most exciting ancient word ‘Vihara’. Lord Mahavira spent 14 years of his life
and alluring destinations with at a single place during four monsoon
a tranquil aura to it. The culture Located about 90kms southeast of months. Home to rock-cut caves, forts,
and ancient sites here tell tales of the the capital Patna, is Rajgir. Originally Buddhist ruins, shell inscriptions, Hindu
state, which come alive on its busy streets. known as Rajagriha—translating to ‘home and Jain temples, and Muslim tombs, it
Renowned for its fascinating festivals of of the king’—it was initially the ancient speaks the language of the soul of Bihar.
colours and deep-rooted customs and capital of the city of Magadh. It was in
values, this state is a treat that has been Rajgir that Gautam Buddha spent several Further along in the Nalanda district,
hiding in plain sight. Bihar’s long and
rich history dates back centuries—the
former kingdom of Magadha and home
to multiple dynasties, like the Mauryas
and the Guptas. To ensure the safety of
travellers, the state government has also
issued stringent precautionary measures.
Step foot into blissful Bihar and wonder
why it is often overlooked.

On a Spiritual Trail
The antiquity of this ancient land where
India's first major empires rose and fell is

Bihar’s capital Patna—formerly
Patliputra—is one of the oldest
continuously inhabited places, not
only in India but the world.

Clockwise from TRAVE L PROMOTION
here: Ashokan Pillar
in Vaishali; the lush
landscape at Ghora
Katora; and the Vishwa
Shanti Stupa in Nalanda

TRAVE L PROMOTION is one of the greatest centres of learning his path to nirvana. Soaked in saffron and bound to follow history. Bihar is believed
in ancient times. This small village in the maroon robes, the chants and prayers of to be the only state with a history of over
Buddhist circuit is as serene as ancient the monks here build a cocoon of peace. 3,000 years and rightly so. The presence
times. The ruins of Nalanda University, of numerous ancient architectural
constructed in the Kushana style of The Heritage Arch relics represents the rich heritage of
architecture, can also be found here. Toss the two-headed coin and heritage is the state. Forts, caves, and tombs are

It is in Nalanda that the pristine,
marbled Vishwa Shanti Stupa, or the
World Peace Pagoda, atop the Ratnagiri
Hill resides. Although the climb uphill may
seem daunting, the views continue to
amaze travellers from all walks of life. The
four golden Buddha statues—depicting
his birth, enlightenment, preaching and
death—are flocked by the followers of
Buddhism and Jainism alike. Additionally,
there is also a ropeway that can take
travellers uphill. This pilgrimage trail also
leads one to Bodh Gaya. Dotted with
temples and monasteries, this 2,500-year-
old birthplace of Buddhism lets you
retrace the footsteps of Lord Buddha and

Clockwise from here: the pristine
Jalmandir; Sher Shah Suri’s tomb at
Sasaram; the Barabar caves; and the
Navlakha Palace

Photograph: Shutterstock

TRAVE L PROMOTION

At that time, Nalanda University Move on to the religious Ashish Kaushik
was the only international town of Buxar, also known as
university. When burned, its library Vishwamitra Nagari, along Further in Sasaram is an awe-worthy
was on fire for over five months due the banks of river Ganga. example of Indo-Islamic architecture at
to the number of books. The most noteworthy sight the tomb of Sher Shah Suri. The exquisite
is clearly the high standing tomb is regarded as one of the noblest
regular topographical features here with Buxar Fort, one of the ancient specimens of Afghan architecture in the
occasional heaps of forgotten ruins. testaments erected by King country. The octagonal tomb, topped by
History rings loud in each sight in Bihar Rudra Deo in 1054 AD a dome standing at the centre of a lake on
and travellers must follow its sound. a square stone plinth with domed kiosks,
abundance. Patliputra boasts of a glorious chhatris at each of its corners, with further
Bihar’s delightful and longstanding path and the ruins at Kumhrar today bear stone banks, connected to the mainland
relationship with history and heritage can testimony to the fact. Excavations over through a wide stone bridge, is truly a
be found at Kumhrar, where the remains the years have been a delight for the work of wonder. The tomb of Hassan Shah
of the ancient Patliputra were excavated. lovers of archaeology. and his son Salim Shah are some other
Ancient ruins here, along with relics also architectural monuments of interest here.
include an 80-pillared assembly hall. The
site is a testimony to the state’s cultural As serenely surprising as Bihar is,
the oldest surviving rock-cut caves in
the country, located in the twin hills
of Barabar and Nagarjuni hills, are an

Photograph: Shutterstock

TRAVE L PROMOTION

A Madhubani painting; and (facing page) the Golghar in Patna

overwhelming sight. Created during the Although the state speaks multiple various cultures of the state. Move on to
Maurya reign, they were dedicated to the languages depicting varied the religious town of Buxar, also known as
Ajivaka Cult, later extensively used by linguistic cultures, Bhojpuri is Vishwamitra Nagari, along the banks of
monks belonging to this sect. Much like leading amid them. river Ganga. The most noteworthy sight is
the state’s various trails, the caves tell clearly the high standing Buxar Fort, one
the history of their time along with the Situated in the town of Rajnagar near of the ancient testaments erected by King
multiple cults and clans involved in their Madhubani, is the Navlakha palace. Rudra Deo in 1054 AD.
centuries of existence. Built in the 17th century AD by Maharaja
Rameshwar Singh of Darbhangha, the The Wild Side
Birds have a different palace neighbours the Kamala River Bihar’s fertile fields and green forests on
habitat altogether in the that hosts a marble temple of goddess the banks of the river Ganga host some of
state at the Kanwar Lake Kali. Another temple of goddess Durga the wildest beasts in their habitats.
Bird Sanctuary. One of the forms an integral part of the palace and is
greenest parts in the region, still operational. In the Terai region of the Shivalik Hills,
it was established in 1987 to spread over an area of 880 sq km, the
ensure the preservation of Moving on to Nalanda, the Jal Mandir— Valmiki Tiger Reserve is home to tigers,
migratory birds. The Kanwar meaning water temple—also known as leopards, flying foxes, flying squirrels,
Lake is known to be the Apapuri, in Pawapuri—meaning a town wild cats, langurs, sloth bears, antelopes,
largest freshwater oxbow without sins—makes a highly revered different species of birds and a variety of
lake in Asia feature. The temple, dedicated to Lord reptiles and butterflies. Travellers can
Mahavira—the 24th Thirthankara (religious indulge in safaris at the Valmiki Tiger
preacher of Jainism)—is nothing short Reserve at Rampur, or go trekking and
of astonishing. It boasts of marvellous birdwatching, or even pull off a full-moon
architecture and the integration of the visit, which is quite the experience.

On the other side, lies the Pant

TRAVE L PROMOTION

Wildlife Sanctuary, also known as the The Mithila culture gained presented by the Mithila culture to the
Rajgir Wildlife Sanctuary, in Nalanda. prominence as early as the Vedic world. The Mithila culture of the Maithili
With various illustrations and auspicious period and is one of the oldest in speakers gives the true essence of cul-
existence of hammocks from the Buddha the country. tural richness. Noted to wear a 'paag' as a
and Jain era, this sanctuary is spread symbol of honour and respect and a sig-
across 36 sq km and has some history region, it was established in 1987 to ensure nificant part of the culture, these people
in itself. Enriched with dense tropical the preservation of migratory birds. The love their art. With initial references in the
forestry on the hills, the sanctuary hosts Kanwar Lake is known to be the largest Hindu epic of Ramayana, the cultural sig-
the likes of wild boars, nilgais, langurs, freshwater oxbow lake in Asia. It is home nificance of Madhubani paintings is be-
and pythons alongside species of large to settler bird varieties as well as migratory yond doubt one of the most pristine ones
mammals, birds and reptiles, many of ones. Keep an eye on the ground here to in the country. The paintings illustrated
which are endangered. find musk deer, leopards and black bears the thoughts, hopes, and dreams of the
living in complete harmony. women who later began making them.
For those looking to escape the city, Traditionally made on the base of plas-
Ghora Katora, a lush, nature-bound water Art and Culture tered mud walls, they were later replaced
reservoir near Rajgir is a serene escape. Bihar is as rich in culture, as it is in by handmade paper, cloth, and canvas.
Situated amid mountains, it is frequented history and spirituality. Present in the Often charac-
by the young and old alike. It is believed region is the history of music including terised by com-
that the horses of the kings of Rajgir used classical Hindustani and folk, along with plex geometrical
to drink water here. What also makes this dance forms such as Kathak and Kha- patterns, these
escape unique is the fact that fuelled jri. Culture in Bihar is a celebration of a paintings are ex-
vehicles are not allowed here, engulfing history dating back to the Vedic times. emplary sights
visitors with an air of tranquility. Delving into the world of art are Mad- of Bihar’s cultural
hubani paintings, the most precious gift history that one
Birds have a different habitat altogether must explore.
in the state at the Kanwar Lake Bird
Sanctuary. One of the greenest parts in the

explore Re g u l a r s

hampi 48*** *** ***
Lasting
History Lap of Tales of
Nature People
Royalty, empires,
and ruins Rivers, lakes, and Hippies, adventure
greenery lovers, and ascetics

48

hampi

ode to

rtuhe ins

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↓ The famous explore
Vitthala Temple

hampi

Happiness is found in the unlikeliest of
places, and sometimes it’s found within.
The ruins of Hampi were a catalyst to this
introspection. Text and photographs by

ra n g e e t gh o s h 49

outlook traveller

explore IWILL NEVER FORGET country, speaking in different
KOSUKE. I met him on accents of Hinglish; hashish-
hampi my wanderings through smoking hippies from all over
the capital of the old the world; there was even a
Vijayanagara empire—Hampi. tiny community of Rajwada
Conquered, pillaged and people, with their kurtas with
destroyed, Hampi has stood dhoti and turbans, and long red
the assaults of invading armies ghagras with silver jewellery.
and time alike. Kosuke’s story
was much the same. A Japanese D ON’T WORRY,” THEY
man, he quit his high-paying SAID. “Be HAMPI.”
job, divorced his wife, and left
his children to come to India in Zipping across the lonely
the pursuit of happiness. Along roads on a rented scooter,
the way, he lost an arm, gained meditating with sadhus, or
a pacemaker, learnt Hindi, and marvelling at the architectural
traversed the country doing masterpieces of a civilisation
odd jobs and singing about long gone, Hampi was quite
Shiva. He did, however, find the celluloid dream. I spent
his happiness. my days exploring the temple
complexes—from Vitthala
But Kosuke wasn’t the only to Virupaksha—or simply
person I met in Hampi. It was watching Laxmi, the resident
like a melting pot of cultures. elephant of the Virupaksha
Lungi-clad men and women Temple taking a bath in the
with flowers in their hair; Tungabhadra River. I spent my
students and backpackers nights down by the Sanapur
from different parts of the Lake, gazing up at the starlit sky

↓ A coracle ↑ A modern
ferrying sadhu on a
passengers moped in
across the his leopard-
Tungabhadra printed lungi

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