National Institute of Fashion Technology
Craft studies M.Des 2022-24 BEADWORK By Mir Community at Dasada, Gujarat 1 National Institute of Fashion Technology
Copyright © National Institute of Fashion Technology, Gandhinagar All rights reserved, No part of this book may be produced, Stored or replicated without prior permission of the National Institute of Fashion Technology, Gandhinagar, Except by those who wish to quote a brief passage in connection with a review. Craft studies 2 M.Des 2022-24
Aditi Amod Lele Hansashree V Pranjali Suhas Ambekar Rakshanda Sharma Suman Hansdah Yashvi Amitkumar Suthar Faculty guide/mentor: Prof. Gaurav Sharma Year of document submission: 2023 Craft studies 3 M.Des 2022-24 Study and craft documentation of Beadwork craft at Dasada, Gujarat by students of Master of Design, NIFT, Gandhinagar (Batch 2022-24):
Acknowledgments We are extremely grateful to National Institute of Fashion Technology, Gandhinagar for involving this exercise effective with curriculum. In the accomplishment of this project many people have supported us. Here we would like to take the opportunity to give token of gratitude to people who guided us to the right path and provided us with valuable information. First and foremost, we would like to thank all the artisans for their time and support. We would also like to thank our Director Professor (Dr) Sameer Sood for being our support system. Our many thanks to Mr. Dhanraj Malik for building our network with artisans. We would like to thank our craft mentor Professor Gaurav Sharma and faculties Professor Asit Bhatt sir and Dr. Kruti Dholakia ma’am for their help and support needed for the successful completion of this project. Craft studies 5 M.Des 2022-24
Craft studies 7 M.Des 2022-24 Preface Beadwork, or “Moti bharat,” as it is known in Gujarat, is the craft of making decorative objects or accessories with beads. This research-based project aims to better understand the traditional skill of beadwork and its standing in the context. The primary research field visit was held in the towns of Dasada and Zainabad in Surendranagar district. The intriguing aspect of this craft is how it is interwoven into the community’s culture and is essential to the local residents’ daily lives. By examining the narratives and practices associated with beadwork, this documentation seeks to acknowledge the bond between the craft and the artisans. The project’s primary focuses are the introduction of craft, understanding the Mir community, their living conditions, beliefs and rituals, and the issues faced by the artisans.
Craft studies 8 M.Des 2022-24 Contents Project Overview ___________________________________________ 11 Background ___________________________________________13 Understanding the context & religious practices Origin of Mir community ___________________________________________ 17 Contextual mapping ___________________________________________ 19 Community mapping ___________________________________________ 20 What do the stakeholders say? ___________________________________________ 22 Stakeholder mapping ___________________________________________ 23 Socio-cultural structure of bead-working communities in Gujarat__________________________ 25 Beadwork and its importance ___________________________________________ 27 Importance of beadwork at the cluster Tools ___________________________________________ 28 Understanding the making process ___________________________________________ 31 1,2,3,4 bead stitching process Product range ___________________________________________ 38 List of products sold and Costing Artisan’s profile ___________________________________________ 41 Market ___________________________________________ 43 Mapping the channels
Craft studies 9 M.Des 2022-24 Contents Rutuchakra ___________________________________________44 Comparison of bead cost ___________________________________________ 45 Living conditions ___________________________________________ 46 Causal loop and system map ___________________________________________ 48 Insights ___________________________________________ 50 Gaps and opportunities ___________________________________________ 51 SWOT Analysis ___________________________________________ 52 Our experience ___________________________________________ 55 References ___________________________________________ 56 Glossary ___________________________________________ 57 List of figures ___________________________________________ 58
Craft studies 11 M.Des 2022-24 Project Overview The aim of this research-based study is to gain a deeper understanding of the traditional craft of beading and its place in society. Understanding the craft process, stakeholders engaged, and the context was the first step in developing an understanding of influencing and interdependent aspects associated with the craft system. PROJECT STAGES Start Initial inquiry Understanding context Research planning Primary Research Defining the approach Questionnaire Interviews Secondary Research Contextual exploration Literature review Analysis Stakeholder Map Gaps and Opportunity map Affinity map System map
Craft studies 13 M.Des 2022-24 Background Fig 1 Indian Wild ass sanctuary, Little Rann of Kachchh Fig 2 Jamiul Uloom Madrasa, Dasada Gujarat, Western state of India, the Father of the Country, stretches out into the Arabian Sea with a hint of the desert and a 1600 km-long coastline. The beaches, temple towns, and old capitals are well-known. Gujarat has gifted the globe with animal preserves, highland get-aways, and breath-taking beauty. Festivals, sculptures, and handmade goods all contribute to the state’s prosperity. The state has a great handicraft culture that has been passed down and maintained over the years. The methods used in crafts vary from community to community, and there are many different kinds, ranging from essential to exotic and colorful patterns. Beadwork, or Moti Bharat as it is known traditionally, uses a variety of techniques and designs to produce a wide range of goods. The craft of beadwork involves threading beads onto tiny wire or thread with a sewing or beading needle, or stitching beads to fabric. Clay and wood were replaced by glass and plastic beads manufactured from different materials, which are currently used to make a variety of items.
Craft studies 14 M.Des 2022-24 Fig 3 What’s going on? What's Going On? In the year 1984 state of Gujarat along with other regions was affected by drought conditions which lasted for 3-4 ears. During the period of drought 151 districts, 704.8 lakh people were affected. Damage increased progressively and reached peak level in the year 1987 1984 1987 Labour requirement in order to source groundwater (digging of lakes) WĞĂŬĚƌŽƵŐŚƚĂŶĚ ǁĂƚĞƌƐĐĂƌĐŝƚLJ Prevailing water scarcity, clean drinking water issues 1985 During a three-year drought beginning 1984, annual rainfall departed from normal by 14 per cent to 74 per cent. 2003 Beadwork craft sales 2013 PRESENT visiting tourist from Australia, Carole Douglas took keen interest and helped them redefine their products to meet quality and aesthetics demands of highvalue
Indian beadwork is produced by numerous tribal ethnic communities and has a broad range of aesthetics. The extensive coastline of Gujarat, is lined with natural harbors, has facilitated trade, transit, and migration to and from the region. There hasn’t been much emphasis given to the historical significance of beads and beadwork, until the 1980s, they were mostly utilized as ornaments. Every culture has its procedures and materials in relation to the beading process. Moreover, many communities from different parts of India were involved in this work so diverse styles came to exist from Gujarat, Rajasthan, Nagaland, Arunachal Pradesh and Orissa. This ancient craft of Gujarat, made by women of the Mir community, exhibits another fusion of culture and creativity in the 21st century. On the outskirts of the Little Rann of Kachchh, a small community of Mirs has recently relocated to Dasada Village in the Surendranagar District. The tribe’s women create beaded items that they sell to tourists visiting the area. The sale of bangles enables women to refine their skills and support themselves. Craft studies 15 M.Des 2022-24 Fig 4 Beadwork artisans: Mir community Fig 5 Beadwork community settlement at Dasada
Fig 6.1: Presence of Mir Community in Gujarat and Rajasthan Fig 6.2: Lakes in and around Dasada Craft studies 16 M.Des 2022-24
Craft studies 17 M.Des 2022-24 Origin of Mir community The origin of Mirs can be traced back to Central Asia, who travelled through Afghanistan to reach Rajasthan. Mirs belong to the de-notified tribes, or vicharti jati as they are known in Gujarat, with the tradition of having names, half Hindu and half Muslim. In 1984 to 1987 Gujarat and Rajasthan faced a severe drought. The Mirs were nomadics, residing near Rajasthan Gujarat border, who migrated over 40-years ago with another nomadic tribal community called the Rabaris, in search of better livelihood and started working as manual labourers. They were mainly diggers of lakes during the period of drought. Eventually, the nomadic life became unsustainable with urbanization and building of infrastructures, some of them settled in Dasada village. Approximately 3km from village of Dasada is a settlement of about fifteen families of the Mir community. They have settled in temporary homes. Today Mirs do manual, agricultural and construction labour. They were also mediator between Rabaris and the butcher, as Rabaris don’t sell the cattle directly to the butcher because of their religious beliefs. Women are especially engaged in the traditional Mir forte – Beadwork. They are economically and socially weak.
Fig 7: Sakinaben Mir with her family at Mir community settlement in Dasada, Gujarat
Craft studies 19 M.Des 2022-24 Fig 8: Lashiben Mir at Desert Coursers Resort, Zainabad
Fig 9: Gender role in craft Community mapping LEGEND Artisans Spouse Sibling/Children Parents Community mapping can help understanding the role of a particular or different communities in a particular area. It facilitates a deeper understanding of the linked practices. Here community mapping helped us understand how the craft was passed down through generations, how migration pattern affected the craft, how traditions and lifestyles of artisans of that community played a major role in shaping their skill. Further community mapping gave us a variety of perspectives to examine a specific craft from various viewpoints.
Craft studies 22 M.Des 2022-24 What do the stakeholders say? NIYATI KUKADIYA There are different ideologies within the community Products get dirty and dusty because of their living environment The same plates in which they eat food are used to make or keep the products There is no sustained intervention that has been done Started buying and selling artificial metal jewellery from market as a viable alternative Mr. DHANRAJ MALIK The Mir community is large producers of children They are uneducated and desperate for money Community conflicts are very common because they live close to each other They take more time in making the product and less time in selling Their children die because of poor living conditions
Craft studies 23 M.Des 2022-24 Stakeholder mapping Customers Artisans Resorts Bead suppliers Bead manufacturers Carol Niyati PHC Local suppliers i Tokar PRIMARY SECONDARY EXTERNAL Vendors of other material Craft enthusiasts Community members Government Stakeholder mapping includes directly or indirectly influencing factors of Beadwork craft.
Craft studies 25 M.Des 2022-24 Socio-cultural structure of bead-working communities in Gujarat In India, numerous customs and traditions have persisted for centuries while slowly but surely changing. Since these are still being practised now, anyone interested in the social history or cultural traditions of this vast and varied social mosaic can do so. One of these cultural practices is beadwork. Many Gujarati communities, like the Kathis, Rabaris, Mirasis, and others, have persisted in creating beadwork to be used as a part of their cultural heritage. Among several ethnic groups of this region, the women of Kathi Darbar and Mahajan communities have mastered this craft and left a very strong imprint of their cultural values on the forms, designs, aesthetics, range of products and scale of applications. Both of these groups are notably landed upper-caste communities that belong to the rich class. Nomadic communities (Mir, Vanazara) and semi-nomadic pastoralists (Rabari), tribal people (Rathva, Padhar, & Bhil), and nomadic people (Rathva, Padhar & Bhil) are a few more ethnic groups and communities of the area that have been discovered to produce elaborate and extensive bead objects. Such community-based and cultural creation also requires a particular family structure where women (or men) spend a lot of their spare time together, sharing common physical and cultural spaces, common lifestyles, and common ideals. Up until recently, Gujarat’s rural inhabitants were firmly rooted in their culture, caste system, and joint family structure. As a result, social structure based on the caste/community system serves as a powerful unifying force, nurturing shared goals and interests that are expressed in traditional works as symbols of these groups’ cultural identities.
Fig 10: Beadwork bangle
Craft studies 27 M.Des 2022-24 Beadwork and its importance Importance of craft at the community Gujarat is home to a wide range of artistic endeavors. Expressions of its folklore and festivals can be found in its pottery, tribal art, printed and woven clothes, beadwork, wood crafts and embroidery. These unique pieces are handcrafted by skilled artisans and are tied with the social and cultural undertones of the area from which they originate. Local artisans in Gujarat’s Dasada district create elegant jewellery by stringing together multi-colored beads as well as delicate home decor items employing beads. The beaded ornaments made by the Mir community women are an essential component of clothing. The only ladies who don’t wear jewellery are widows. Around 40 families live in Dasada and every household in practices the craft, which is passed down from mother to daughter. Beadwork plays an essential role in the community as it is an alternate source of livelihood to the families. These handcrafted goods enable women to make a living with pride and support themselves.
Craft studies 28 M.Des 2022-24 Tools Moti bharat holds great significance for women in the Mir community as it serves a means to financially support their households and represents an essential part of their wedding tradition, with items such as Kachana (Latkan or Tassels), Atkani (Arm band), and Patta (Men’s waist band) being adorned with these jewels. Despite the simplicity of the materials and tools used, such as needles, threads, beads, and rubber bangles, these women skilfully create intricate and beautiful Moti Bharat jewellery. Needle Generally, Moti bharat is done using a beading needle of size 9, while sizes 10, 12 and 13 are suitable for working with size 11/0 seed beads. This allows the needle to easily pass through even the tiniest beads. It is important to note that the size of the needle should be chosen based on the size of the beads being used. Thread Nowadays, bead products are crafted using Nylon beading thread. Specifically, Nylon thread that possesses elasticity is utilized for producing items such as bracelets and anklets, as it allows the wearer to adjust the fit by stretching the jewellery. This type of thread is lightweight and available in wide range.
Moti/Bead Historically, for Moti bharat the artisans use Seed bead also known as Czech bead. Seed beads are small, cylindrical beads that are often used in jewellery making, beadwork, and other crafts. They are typically made of glass, but can also be made from plastic, metal, or other materials. Seed beads are named for their small size and resemblance to tiny seeds. They are usually measured in size using a number system, with larger numbers indicating smaller beads. For example, size 11/0 seed beads are smaller than size 6/0 seed beads. Seed beads come in a wide variety of colors and finishes, including opaque, transparent, metallic, and matte, making them a versatile Rubber Bangles White rubber bangles used in beadwork of Gujarat are known as “bangdi” in the local language. The white rubber bangles act as a base that are used to create intricate designs using small, colorful beads. The bangles are typically made from a flexible and durable material. In the beadwork of Gujarat, artisans use a needle and thread to carefully stitch colorful beads onto the surface of the rubber bangles, creating intricate and vibrant designs. These designs often feature Craft studies 29 M.Des 2022-24 Tools
Craft studies 31 M.Des 2022-24 Understanding the making process Ek moti ka kaam Ek moti ka kaam is a technique of using 1 moti (beads) at a time in a threaded needle, which forms various shapes from straight line to square or circle. Step-1: Thread the needle with nylon wire, tie the knot at the end and put one moti in it. Tie a knot. Step-4: Take the needle out from the 1st moti and then repeat the whole process. Step-2: Take another moti to start making the bracelet, push the needle down from the tied knot of the 1st moti. Step-3: Take the needle out from the tied knot of the 1st moti. Product range: Bangdi, Clip, Toran, Choker, etc. Final product: BRACELET Fig 11: Ek moti ka kaam (Process)
Craft studies 32 M.Des 2022-24 Understanding the making process Do moti ka kaam Do moti ka kaam is a technique of using 2 moti (beads) at a time in a threaded needle, which forms zig- zag shape from line to square to circle. Step-1: Thread the needle with nylon wire, tie the knot at the end and put one moti in it. Tie a knot. Step-4: Each time reverse the chain and repeat the process by putting two motis through middle moti. Step-2: Take two more motis and tie a knot. Step-3: Now take two moti and pass the needle through the middle moti. Repeat the process by reversing the moti chain. Product range: Anklet, Bangdi, Clip, Choker, etc.
Craft studies 33 M.Des 2022-24 Step-5: Then take around 15-16 moti in a row to make a loop at one side for tying a bracelet. Step-6: Take out the needle from last 3 motis of the chain to make a circular loop. Step-7: Once the loop is made tie a knot at the end. Step- 8: On the other end of the chain repeat the same process by taking more than 16 beads to form a small spherical end. Step- 9: Tie it in circular manner and now this spherical end will serve as the button of the chain bracelet. Final product: ANKLET Fig 12: Do moti ka kaam (Process)
Craft studies 34 M.Des 2022-24 Teen moti ka kaam Teen moti ka kaam is a technique of using 3 moti (beads) at a time in a threaded needle, which forms rhombus shape. Step-1: Thread the needle with nylon wire, tie the knot at the end and put one moti in it. Tie a knot. Step-4: Take 3 more moti of different color to form pattern. Step-2: Take three motis in the needle and tie a knot. Step-3: Take out the needle from the knot and the first moti. Product range: Ring, Bangdi, Clip, Choker, etc. Understanding the making process
Craft studies 35 M.Des 2022-24 Step-5: Pass it through the middle moti of the last 3 moti inserted. Step-6: Repeat the process again till the desired length of the ring has been achieved. Step-7: Put in the finger to check the desired length. Step- 8: Close both the ends together by repeating the process without adding moti. Step- 9: Tie the knot at the end and cut the thread. Final product: RING Fig 13: Teen moti ka kaam (Process)
Craft studies 36 M.Des 2022-24 Chaar moti ka kaam Chaar moti ka kaam is a technique of using 4 moti (beads) at a time in a threaded needle, which forms various shapes. Step-4: Tie it in a circular form Step-2: Take four motis in the needle and tie a knot. Step-3: Take out the needle from the knot and the first moti. Product range: Earring, Bangdi, Clip, Choker, etc. Understanding the making process Step-1: Thread the needle with nylon wire, tie the knot at the end and put one moti in it. Tie a knot.
Craft studies 37 M.Des 2022-24 Step-5: Take 4 moti and pull them out from the third moti of the previously woven 6 motis. Step-6: Take another 4 motis and pass them out from the 3rd moti at the other corner. Step- 8: Repeat the process till the desired length is achieved. Step- 9: At last tie the knot at the corner edge or last moti of the earring. Final product: EARRING Step-7: Pull the needle out. Fig 14: Chaar moti ka kaam (Process)
Craft studies 38 M.Des 2022-24 Product range Fig 15: Atkani/Armlet Price: ₹ 350-500 Fig 16: Hair clips Price: ₹ 100-200 Fig 17: Necklace Price: ₹ 250-400 Fig 18: Anklet Price: ₹ 100-250 Fig 19: Earrings Price: ₹ 50-100 Fig 20: Ring Price: ₹ 100-150
Product range Craft studies 39 M.Des 2022-24 Fig 21: Bangdi / Bangles Price: ₹ 250-450 Fig 24: Choker Price: ₹ 150-250 Fig 25: Chashme ki dori/Spectacle chain Price: ₹ 150-250 Fig 26: Rakhi Price: ₹ 100-250 Fig 22: Keychain Price: ₹ 100-300 Fig 23: Mobile pouch Price: ₹ 250-500
Craft studies 41 M.Des 2022-24 Artisan’s profile Name: Lashiben Karimbhai Mir Name: Kaliben Bhavabhai Mir Name: Sakinaben Umarbhai Mir Age: 30 years Age: 32 years Age: 16 years Occupation: Artisan (Beadwork) Occupation: Artisan (Beadwork) Occupation: Artisan (Beadwork) Belongs to: Dasada, Gujarat Belongs to: Lakhadia, Kachchh Belongs to: Dasada, Gujarat How long craft practiced: 17 yrs How long craft practiced: 15 yrs How long craft practiced: 6 yrs Where were you trained: Trained by ancestors during early childhood, later product diversification with Carol Douglas Do you teach and pass on the skills to family members: Yes What are you currently producing: Bangles, necklaces, anklets, key-chains, spectacle chain Fig 27: Lashiben Karimbhai Mir Fig 28: Kaliben Bhavabhai Mir Fig 29: Sakinaben Umarbhai Mir
Dasada Rann Riders by Kaafila Desert Zainabad Coursers LIttle Rann Resort Desert Den Bhavana Resorts and Farm Patdi Bajana Fig 30: Places in and around, Dasada, Gujarat Fig 31: Desert Coursers, Zainabad Fig 32: Rann Riders by Kafila, Dasada Fig 33: Desert Den Fig 34: Little Rann Resort Fig 35: Bhavana Resorts and Farm
Craft studies 43 M.Des 2022-24 Market Artisans sell their range of products in the resorts that are situated in and around Dasada, Gujarat. Rann Riders by Kaafila, Desert Coursers, Little Rann Resort, Bhavana Resorts and Farm are some of the resort where they sell their products. Niyati Kukadia, co-founder of Soar Excursions (organization that tailor-makes tours around Gujarat’s vast cultural heritage and biodiversity) stumbled upon the nomadic Mir community living in Dasada village during her trip in 2016, she got interested in their lives. After seeing their unsustainable living conditions and the potential for their beadwork style, she decided to work with community. She taught them new designs using traditional methods and finishing techniques and sells the products under Tokar sustainable designs brand. Some of the unique products they sell under the products are spectacle string, anklet, and candle holders. Carole Douglas, an Australian artist and designer encountered the handcraft and people of Kachchh, Gujarat during her visit to India for her conference. She had an idea for a new company that would combine textiles, environmental awareness and will be socially responsible. During one such trip, she met Mir community people of Dasada village making bead jewellery. Seeing their potential, she helped redesign the bangles in terms of aesthetics and quality. Trip to Dasada (2016) Encountered unsustainable living conditions of Mir community Taught them new designs & finishing technique Channles: Tokar, Okhai, iTokri ---> ---> --->
Craft studies 44 M.Des 2022-24 Rutuchakra is a visual map to represent the occurring of various events across the year and seasons and their impact on craft practices. Rutuchakra Artisans face high loses from April to month of September. Marginal sale happens during the festival of Navratri. Peak sales during the month of October to March when there is more tourist footfall.
Craft studies 45 M.Des 2022-24 Comparison of bead cost
Craft studies 46 M.Des 2022-24 Fig 36: Mir community settlement at Dasada, Gujarat
Name: Mafiben Merabhai Mir Age: 35 years Silver jewellery from Deesa, Gujarat Self embroidered clothing from Deesa, Gujarat Beadwork ornaments Bangles from Sanchore, Rajasthan (To be worn after marriage) DASADA ZAINABAD PATDI PATDI Make shift tent house: Plastic sheets & wooden poles from nearby farms Settlement: - Occupying vacant plots - 10 to 15 families residing together - Community residing in current location since past 12 months (March 2022) Name: Rafiq Merabhai Mir Age: 6 years Education: Jamiul Uloom Madrasa, Dasada Distance from settlement to Madrasa (Educational institution) Fig 37: Illustration depicting living conditions of Mir community settlement at Dasada Craft studies 47 M.Des 2022-24
Craft studies 48 M.Des 2022-24 Causal loop and System map Causal loop mapping aided in our understanding of the interdependence of the craft and community with other parts of the system as well as how they were impacted by a variety of event.