With palms together...praying,
With deep reverence at the feet of Lord Buddha,
Wherever I am,
Whatever difficulties, dangers and troubles,
Without fear, His Path shall be followed.
To the land of Gandhara Kingdom, the vast Kushan Empire,
I shall return... to worship... and carry on my resolution
To fulfill the Noble One’s sacred Legacy.
Arayawangso Bhikkhu
Onward to Gandhara:
Revealing the Buddhist Heritage in Pakistan
by Arayawangso Bhikku
English Translation of the Thai version published on the Occasion
of the 92nd Birthday Anniversary of Venerable Phra Dhammethajahn,
Wat Sommanas Rajavoravihara, Bangkok On 13 January 2563 /2020 CE
The publication of this book has been made possible through
generous support of Buddhist devotees of Phra Ajahn Arayawangso.
ISBN 978-616-588-591-1
First edition: 2022
1,500 Copies
Published for free distribution by Buddhapojharipunchai Forest
Monastery, (D), under Royal Patronage, Lamphun Province, Thailand
Printed by : Tanapress Co., Ltd
Historic Ringing of the Bell of Peace at Peshawar Museum,
Khyber Pakhtunkhwa Province, on 30th October 2019/2562 BE
ii
Table of Contents
Page
Foreword v
Introduction xiii
• Copy of the Invitation Letter xviii.
• Programme xix
Translator’s Note xx
Reminiscence of Peshawar xxiii
The Long-awaited day –Onward to Gandhara (Chapter 1) 1
The Long-awaited day –Onward to Gandhara (Chapter 2) 8
The Long-awaited day –Onward to Gandhara (Chapter 3) 19
The Long-awaited day –Onward to Gandhara (Chapter 4) 27
The Long-awaited day –Onward to Gandhara (Chapter 5) 36
The Long-awaited day –Onward to Gandhara (Chapter 6) 45
The Long-awaited day –Onward to Gandhara (Conclusion) 52.
A Signal from the Sound of Dhamma Peace…….. 59
from Taxila/Pakistan (Chapter 1)
A Signal from the Sound of Dhamma Peace…….. 65
from Taxila/Pakistan (Chapter 2)
A Signal from the Sound of Dhamma Peace…….. 71
from Taxila/Pakistan (Chapter 3)
A Signal from the Sound of Dhamma Peace…….. 79
from Taxila/Pakistan (Chapter 4)
The Sound of Peace….for Dr Tetsu!! 84
Impressions from my Trip to Pakistan with 94
Venerable Arayawangso
iii
MV Arayawangso paying respect to the Paranibbana Buddha statue,
in Bhamala, to be jointly restored under a people-to-people joint initiative.
iv
v
Foreword
Joint Initiative in the Restoration of Gandharan Buddhist Art…
in Pakistan
Blessing to all devout Buddhists,
I have recently completed writing a summary of
my working visit to the land of World Heritage Buddhist
civilisation in Pakistan. The trip left me with strong
impressions of the civilisation of Gandhara and Kamboja,
formerly states in the North Western region of Jambudvīpa
(current Indian sub continent) presently located in Pakistan
and Afghanistan, both Islamic republics.
Although the sites where Buddhist civilisation
flourished in the past are located in countries with mainly
Muslim population, this did not present any difficulty or
obstacles to the study tour. We were able to conduct proper
religious activities in appropriate places in Pakistan where
the government has a policy to support cultural and world
heritage tourism.
The visit has led to mutually agreed intention to
collaborate in restoring the Parinibbana Buddha statue, a
remnant of Gandharan Buddhist art from, most probably, the
Kushan empire which spread its power over all of Jambudvīpa,
particularly during King Kanishka the Great’s reign, when
Buddhism was prospering once again after the reign of King
Ashoka the Great.
vi
As a consequence of the above understanding, the
Director of Archeology and Museums of Khyber Pakhtunkhwa,
Pakistan, will be visiting Thailand during 21st -25th December
2019, to meet with me and the Thai working group to work out
a plan of action for the restoration of the 15 metre Parinibbana
Buddha statue from Gandharan period. This statue was
discovered in Bhamala, in an ancient temple area over 1000
years old, along a beautiful 6 kilometre long lake .
The reason I volunteered to be the main sponsor of
the restoration project of the longest Parinibbana Buddha
statue so far discovered in the Buddhist World Heritage
sites in Pakistan was because I could feel the sincere attention
and importance given by the Pakistani authorities to seriously
develop and restore them. This is evident in the proper
storage and display of valuable ancient Buddhist artefacts in
various local museums befitting their being World Heritage
treasures, be they in Taxila, Peshawar or Swat. I was, therefore,
pleased to support the restoration of this exquisite Parinibbana
Buddha statue.
Given the spiritual connection through Buddhist World
Heritage, my trip to meet with Pakistani governmental
authorities and officials at World Bank Campus, during 28th
October to 2nd November last year, led to an agreement
to cooperate bilaterally on the basis of people-to-people
relationship. Despite belonging to different faiths, we had the
same peace loving hearts.
vii
This was indeed a true feat of Dhamma Diplomacy,
an occasion to be cherished, especially, as we overcame the
feeling of distrust and suspicion caused by unruly actions by
some people who use religion as a tool to create conflicts among
fellow human beings.
Such has happened in the past when a Taliban leader in
Afghanistan rationalised the destruction of two large standing
Buddha statues in Bamiyan, an ancient city on the Silk Road
and once the center of Buddhist civilisation, stating that Islamic
Law does not allow worshiping of religious figures!
If that was the reason, then it was rather irrational
because in reality the carvings in the Bamiyan valley had
nothing to do with Islam at all. They were not religious figures
but public treasures from ancient history of great value to all
mankind. As such, they should have been kept as reference
for the study of humanity from different periods. UNESCO
has thus designated the standing statues as World Cultural
Heritage stating that the standing Buddha statues were
erected in the 10th century Buddhist Era, of Ancient Greek art
(Gandharan Buddhist Art) and belong to all mankind.
It was, therefore, regrettable that an important historical
evidence of humanity was completely destroyed leaving no
trace of the stone Buddha statues for posterity. In fact, the
two standing Buddha statues were already in dilapidated
conditions as a result of age. The responsible authorities had
been trying to repair and maintain them as best they could.
viii
The Chinese monk, Xuanzang, made a note of the
Bamiyan standing Buddha statues as follows: “…they were
carved from stone 140-150 sia or chi (1 chi in those days was
about 22.7-23.1 centimetres or almost one foot) in height,
bright gold in colour decorated with valuable jewels…”
Thinking about the two standing Buddha statues
destroyed by the former Afghan government under the Taliban
while the whole world was watching inspired my decision to
sponsor the restoration of the Gandharan Parinibbana
Buddha statue which comes from the same period.
Due to the badly deteriorating conditions of the
Bhamala Parinibbana statue that I saw myself, the remaining
part could not be more than 30% of the original. It was,
therefore, necessary to involve a skilled team of architects/
craftsmen in order to restore the statue back to its original state
as much as possible.
Fortunately, my concern was met when Assistant
Professor Dr.Pinyo Suwannakiri, National Artist in Thai
Architecture, through coordination with Khunying Supatra
Masdit, readily agreed to attend the meeting with the Director
of Archeology and Museums of Khyber Pakhtunkwa, Pakistan,
on 23rd December 2019, at the Thai Foreign Ministry. A call
on the Foreign Minister has also been scheduled.
Another matter that I have recommended to the
Pakistani authorities in charge of World Heritage Buddhist
sites in Taxila was to build a meditation hall on the ground of
ix
Dhamma Rajika stupa, constructed at the time of King Ashoka
the Great, for Buddhists from all over the world visiting the
World Heritage sites in Pakistan to perform religious activities
and meditate. The concerned authorities were interested and
initially agreed with the idea. I have, since my return, written
to the Pakistani side about this matter and will follow it up
during my planned visit to Pakistan in early 2020.
I will also take the opportunity of my forthcoming trip
to Pakistan to visit Swat, in the North, which is another region
where important remnants of Buddhist civilisation can be
found as well as a museum displaying valuable Buddhist
treasures. My visit to Swat will be at the invitation of Prince
Adnan Aurangzeb, to conduct the ringing of the Bell of Peace
ceremony. This will be the third one and will complete the
triangle of Buddhist civilisation where Bells of Peace will
have been erected. I also anticipate visiting sites of Buddhist
civilisation around Swat basin which are no less important
than those in Taxila.
During my first visit to Pakistan at the invitation of the
Embassy of Pakistan in Thailand, Prince Adnan Aurangzeb
(who was Wali of Swat prior to the revolutionary change of the
political system into Islamic Republic of Pakistan) welcomed
me and my party at Takht -I- Bahi, the centre of Buddhism of
the Kushan kingdom in the 6th-7th century Buddhist Era.
He accompanied our party to participate in the ringing of the
Bell of Peace ceremony in Peshawar, Khyber Pakhtunkhwa,
and was impressed with the call for peace emitted from the
x
Peace Bell to arouse the spirit of every human being to “Rely on
Oneself -Rely on the Dhamma” to return peace to the world
community.
With Metta,
Arayawangso Bhikkhu
xi
Visit to Dhamma Rajika Stupa, Taxila, on 31st October 2019/2562BE
MV Arayawangso humbly paid homage to the sacred site before
proceeding to perform circumambulation and Dhamma practice.
xii
xiii
INTRODUCTION
Onwards to Gandhara
Gandhara was one of the 16 Mahajanapadas (large
regions) in Jampudvīpa, which existed even before Lord
Buddha’s time. One of its most important cities was Taxila - a
centre of multidisciplinary knowledge and arts, also renowned
for having the oldest university in the world. Taxila was
registered as a UNESCO World Heritage site in 1980.
Luang Por Arayawangso visited the Islamic Republic
of Pakistan from 28th October to 2nd November, 2019, at the
invitation of His Excellency Asim Iftikhar Ahmad, Ambassador
of Pakistan to Thailand. The invitation was for him to make
a study tour of the ancient Buddhist sites in Gandhara region.
Allow me to quote the main part of his invitation letter, dated
16 August 2019 as follows:
“Pakistan and Thailand are bound by cultural and
religious links that go back to the Buddhist Gandharan
civilisation. Pakistan is proud of its Buddhist heritage,
which has been carefully preserved as a common heritage
of mankind. Your visit, I am sure, would lead to greater
region- wide awareness of this heritage and the cultural
and historical bonds and deepen the people to people
relationship between Thailand and Pakistan.”
Luang Por = Venerable Father, Respected Father, a friendlly and reverential term used for
elderly monks.
xiv
In this book, readers will surely sense the miracles
of the Dhamma and can follow daily activities of Luang
Por Arayawangso and his party in details from the photos, their
captions and the articles written by Luang Por, published in
Thai Post Newspaper every Friday and the Sunday edition of
Bangkokbiznews. We can see that, apart from fulfilling the
expectations of the Ambassador, Luang Por Arayawangso
even agreed to help in matters concerning building a meditation
hall and the restoration of a Parinibbana Buddha statue from
the Gandharan period.
As a member of his party, I would like to say that in
extending the invitation to Luang Por Arayawangso to visit
Pakistan, the hosts had high expectations that, being a well-
known spiritual leader, his visit would be widely publicised.
Ambassador Asim Iftikhar Ahmad came to see Luang Por
off at Suvarnabhumi Airport and requested that his daily
activities be disseminated widely through all channels of
communications and social media. This sentiment was later
echoed by His Excellency the President of Pakistan, who
expressed hope that the publicity of the visit would attract
more tourists to visit Pakistan.
In Pakistan, armies of the Press were organised to follow
Luang Por Arayawangso’s daily activities and publicised them
through all channels. So much so that in many places he visited,
people would come up and asked to take photograph with him,
saying that they saw him on television.
xv
May I take this opportunity to record additional
information regarding the visit as follows:
At the official meeting with His Excellency Dr Arif
Alvi, President of the Islamic Republic of Pakistan, Luang Por
Arayawangso mentioned that the main objectives of his visit
were to promote the sites of Buddhist Gandharan civilisation
for the benefit of Buddhists and scholars interested in learning
about these historical places as well as to organise ceremonies
to ring the Bell of Peace in Taxila and Peshawar that would
send a signal of Dhamma peace to the world community for
better understanding and ending of conflicts. President Arif
Alvi, in turn, said in response that he had “read books on the
Buddha’s teachings and believe that your trip and the ringing of
the Bells are very important. I am sure that the peaceful message
of Buddhism would go around the world”.
During the meeting with His Excellency Sohail
Mahmood, Foreign Secretary, Ministry of Foreign Affairs,
Luang Por Arayawangso expressed his view that it was very
important to study the Gandharan civilisation in the periods
of pre-, during - and post- Buddhism, particularly, as Taxila was the
earliest university in the world. He recommended that a
committee consisting of history experts, archaeologists and
religious scholars be set up to seriously research on the history
of Gandhara and main Buddhist cities. This committee should
exchange views and information as well as drawing up study
tours to attract tourists interested in Buddhist Gandharan
civilisation, highlighting its peaceful aspects, rather than
xvi
concentrating on archeology alone. Most importantly, the
committee should also seek to make the entire Gandharan region
an area for spiritual education where people from all faiths could
come for meditation. This would attract more tourists to visit
Gandhara. The Foreign Secretary agreed that it was important
to enhance academic exchanges of information that would also
promote Gandharan tourism.
At the meeting with His Excellency Noor-Ul-Haq
Qadri, Minister of Religious Affairs and Inter-Faith Harmony,
the Minister stressed that the visit would promote Gandharan
tourism, peace and inter-faith harmony as his government gives
importance to religious freedom. Pakistan wanted to revive the
Gandharan heritage and the government had set a policy for
future co-operation with Thailand in promoting religious
tourism, possibly through a bilateral agreement. This includes
organising meditation sessions, academic exchanges and
seminars. This policy is along the line of Luang Por
Arayawangso’s earlier proposal to the Foreign Secretary of
Pakistan.
In conclusion, allow me to make a couple of personal
observations regarding this visit to Gandhara.
It seemed as if Luang Por Arayawangso had returned
to a well-known place where he once lived and worked.
He felt quite familiar with the place and liked the people very
much; he found them friendly, gentle and courteous.
xvii
Luang Por also demonstrated graceful leadership
at meetings with important Pakistani officials, which was
something I felt proud of, particularly, when he chaired the
ringing of the Bell of Peace ceremonies in Peshawar and
Taxila, witnessed by diplomatic representatives of many
countries as well as the media. He also gave live interviews for
TVs, radio and newspapers in clear and precise English, a new
role he had taken on that could be worthy of following.
Khunying Supatra Masdit
Former Minister of the Office of the
Prime Minister of Thailand
xviii
xix
Most Venerable Arayawangso and Delegation Trip to Islamic Republic
of Pakistan 28th October - 2nd November 2019
Date Day Time Schedule Venue
28/10 Monday 18.00-22.00
29/10 Tuesday Travel to Pakistan Received at Islamabad
08.30-10.30
30/10 Wednesday 10.45 -13.00 International Airport by
13.00-14.15
31/10 Thursday 14.20-15.00 DG Samina, Amb. Pornpob,
15.15-15.45
1/11 Saturday 16.30-17.00 Proceed to Islamabad Imran
1/11 Friday 08.30-11.00
11.00-12.00 Alms offering by Amb of Thailand and Residence of Thai
12.30-14.00
14.00-17.00 Embassy staff Ambassador
08.00-09.15 Event at World Bank with WB Head and WB Campus
09.15-10.00
10.10 -12.00 Senior Minister Atif Khan (KPK)
12.00 - 13.00 Visit to Islamabad Museum
09.00-10.45 Call on President of Pakistan President’s Office
11.00-12.30
12.45-13.45 Call on Minister of Religious Affairs and Religious Affairs Ministry
19.30-20.30
Inter-Faith Harmony
22.30
06.00 Call on Minister of Foreign Affairs Foreign Ministry
Travel to Takht -I-Bahi
Visit to Takht-l- Bahi Buddhist World
Heritage site
Travel to Peshawar Museum
Visit to Peshawar Museum
- Launching of the Bell of Peace Ringing
Ceremony Ringing of the First Peace Bell
- Tour of the Museum
Return to Islamabad
Travel to Dhamma Rajika (Taxila)
Visit to Dhamma Rajika Buddhist World
Heritage site
Visit to Taxila Museum
- Launching of the Bell of Peace Ringing
Ceremony Ringing of the second Peace Bell
- Tour of the Museum
Lunch at Museum Official Residence hosted
by Provincial Minister of Punjab for Youth
Affairs, Raj Taimoor Khan Bhatti
Return to Islamabad
Travel to Bhamala, Haripur
Visit to Bhamala Buddhist World Heritage site
Lunch hosted by Minister of Energy
Return to Islamabad
Drive to Islamabad International Airport
Departure for Bangkok
Arrival at Bangkok Suvarnabhumi
International Airport
xx
Translator’s Note
I feel highly privileged that my esteemed spiritual
teacher, Venerable Luang Por Arayawangso, has placed his trust
in me to organise a translation of his book titled “สู่�่แดนคัันธาระ
(Towards Gandhara), a compilation of articles he wrote in 2
Thai weeklies about his visit to the Islamic Republic of Pakistan
at the invitation of the Embassy of Pakistan in Thailand. The
book was published in January 2020. The original Thai version
was meant for Buddhists in Thailand with whom the Venerable
wanted to share his impressions of the visit, particularly,
drawing their attention to the importance of the ancient land of
Gandhara, part of the present day Islamic Republic of Pakistan,
in the history of Buddhism.
The challenge was how to produce an English translation
of the book that would honour its original work both in style,
substance and tone. I decided to seek help from former
colleagues at the Thai Foreign Ministry, and Kalyanamittas*.
I believe they have done the job well.
I wish to express my sincere appreciation to everyone
in the Translation Team for their most valuable contribution.
*Kalayanamittas = good friends (particularly in Dhamma)
xxi
I would also like to thank the Pakistan Project
Coordinator, Dr. Nitinant Wisaweisuan, Dean of Puey
Ungphakorn School of Development Studies of Thammasat
University, whose advice was sought from the begining,
Dr. Pawadee Tonguthai for her translated works used in the
book, particularly for the poem “Reminiscence of Peshawar”,
Kamoltip and Vaughan Evans, who patiently read through
the draft, Nuntaporn Piyakarnchana and Pimprae Hiranprueck
for their contribution in putting this book together.
I very much hope that foreign friends, particularly,
friends from Pakistan, be they government officials or ordinary
Pakistanis, who chance upon the book “ Onward to Gandhara:
Revealing the Buddhist heritage in Pakistan byArayawangso
Bhikku” will find it interesting in its different aspects, and,
in particular, can sense the empathy and kinship shown by
Venerable Arayawangso for this ancient land of Buddhist
civilisation permeating throughout the book.
In conclusion, I wish to attribute all the merits derived
from producing this book to my esteemed spiritual teacher,
Venerable Luang Por Arayawangso, for his courage and
determination to venture into Gandhara, a land of his long-time
dream, with only Dhamma, sincerity and good-will in his heart!
xxii
May he succeed in his noble quest !
Suchitra Hiranprueck
On behalf of the Translation Team
- Dr.Chaiskran Hiranpruk
- Chalermpol Thanchitt
- Charivat Sutabutr
- Kantimon Raksakiati
- Piyathip Thanavisitkul
- Poladej Worachat
* Kalayanamittas = good friends (particularly in Dhamma)
xxiii
Reminiscence of Peshawar
To Peshawar I traveled to ring the Peace Bell and tell humanity to have
confidence in Peace with Dhamma.
A signal resonated far and wide, sending Dhamma Peace from my heart
and mind.
Humbly I paid my homage, respectful for loving- kindness Dhamma.
A bold determination was declared, to return peacefulness to Peshawar,
former Purusapura of the Kushan dynasty, where Buddha-Dhamma reigned
supreme.
The sound of homage to Dhamma was uttered while ringing the Bell
of Peace, inviting the world to visit Lord Buddha’s civilized land.
The admiration of World Heritage in Peshawar will soon spread
to all mankind.
From Thailand I traveled to Peshawar, with complete reverence for the
mighty power of Dhamma.
Arayawangso Bhikkhu
December 2019/2563 BE, Buddhapojhariphunchai Forest Monastery, Lamphun, Thailand
xxiv
xxv
The Long-awaited Day...Onwards to Gandhara
Articles published in Thai Post Newspaper, 2019
MV Arayawangso paying homage to a standing Buddha statue displayed
at Peshawar Museum
Photograph of an oil painting by Artist Phatchravut Patsoongnern
xxvi
By Arayawangso Bhikku 1
The Long-awaited Day…Onwards
to Gandhara
(Chapter 1)
Blessing to devout Buddhists,
I was invited by the Islamic Republic of Pakistan, through
H.E. Mr. Asim Iftikhar Ahmad, Ambassador of Pakistan to
Thailand, to visit this land of great civilisation and strong
spiritual values - not only for Buddhists, but for all mankind as
well. A five-day programme of official and religious activities,
from 28th October - 2nd November 2019, was kindly arranged
by the Pakistani team. We departed Thailand on 28th October
2019 by Thai Airways International. My flight was facilitated
by Mr. Ekniti Nitithanprapas, Thai Airways Chairman, whose
management style follows the principle of “Virtue First for
Thai Airways.”
2 Onwards to Gandhara : Revealing the Buddhist Heritage of Pakistan
We were well-taken care of - my adventurous
accompanying party and I. The Pakistani Ambassador
himself kindly came to see me off. This provided us an
opportunity to discuss and fine-tune our mutual expectations
from the visit as well as the do’s and don’ts in an Islamic
country where Islam is the state religion..
An understanding between us has been established for
many years. We are already familiar with each other. Though
we come from different faiths, our objectives do not differ - to
build peace and harmony for humanity, through the Dhamma
power. This can be seen from the efforts made over the
past five years - to invite me to visit Pakistan. The trip only
materialised in 2019 when all the circumstances fell into place.
Why did it have to be me? If you need a profound reply, you
should ask the Pakistani team. But if you ask me, my simple
answer is probably because I am a Guruji to many people in
Jambudvīpa. For over 10 years, I have been devoted to my
duties as a dedicated disciple of Lord Buddha. This was well
recognised by the government and international religious
organisations in the motherland of Buddhism. I was regularly
invited to attend international conferences as a Buddhist
spiritual leader, through the recommendations of diplomatic
representatives of the Indian Government in Thailand. I was
also granted the Title of “Phra Dhamma Patipatti Vayapatitara
Taera” by the Sri Lankan Buddhist Council, Siam Upali
Wongse Nikaya of the Forest tradition. This is one of the 10
By Arayawangso Bhikku 3
Titles, bestowed upon the monk whose propagation of
Buddhism brings great benefit to the Buddhist community and
humankind.
Whatever the reason for the invitation, it was not as
important as the sincerity and the delightful co-operation
of the teams - in their diplomatic and spiritual efforts. This
clearly showed that the differences in faiths were not obstacles
to love, trust and understanding between us. The fact is: kindness
is present in all faiths. There is a Buddhist proverb: Vissasa
Parama Yati – “Familiarity makes the best relatives”.
Familiarity leads to a kin-like relationship. It is a
Dhamma medicine that dispels worries, anxieties, hesitation
and doubts. The “Wh questions” (why, what, who) gradually
disappeared, particularly the concerns over terrorist threats
prevalent in this region, including Pakistan. Mr. Imran Shauket,
an unconventional representative, liaised with the Pakistani
Embassy in Thailand with diplomatic appropriateness through
Assistant Professor Dr.Nitinant Wisawesuan, the then Vice
Rector of Thammasat University and now Dean of Pridi
Banomyong International College. It had taken five years to
prepare for this trip, covering the tenure of three Pakistani
Ambassadors to Thailand,starting with H.E. Mr. Sohail
Mahmood, who is currently the Foreign Secretary of the
Ministry of Foreign Affairs. He, on behalf of the Minister of
Foreign Affairs, greeted me and chaired the meeting on
29th October, 2019, at the Ministry of Foreign Affairs, to find
4 Onwards to Gandhara : Revealing the Buddhist Heritage of Pakistan
ways to promote Buddhist World Heritage sites in Pakistan
to the fullest benefit for humankind, particularly, to open up
opportunities for Buddhists from over 30 countries around
the world to visit the sites.
The five years of continued liaison finally led to my
decision to visit Pakistan. The programme was agreed on and
thoroughly checked by both sides - a joint effort, involving
Pakistani diplomats, civil society, and the dedicated Minister
of Foreign Affairs, Mr. Don Pramudwinai. Mr. Pramudwinai
himself has given me full support in my propagation of
Buddhism in South Asia. It was also an opportune time with
the newly assumed tenure of the current Thai Ambassador
in Islamabad, H.E.Mr. Pornpop Uampidhaya.
As the situation in Pakistan became more peaceful,
it was an appropriate time to visit the country. In hindsight,
the visit seemed to be a bit too official for me, with the
Pakistani Ambassador himself coming to see me off at the
Suvarnabhumi International Airport on 28th October 2019.
We left at 18.45 hrs. by TG 349, and it took five hours to reach
the international airport in Islamabad at 00:14 hrs on 29th October
2019, Thailand time. The two hours’ time difference between
Pakistan and Thailand made it around 10.00 pm. in Islamabad.
I was welcomed by H.E. Mrs Samina Mehta, Director-General
of the Asia - Pacific Department, Ministry of Foreign Affairs,
the Thai Ambassador, H.E. Pornpop Uampidhaya, Colonel
Adisak Showichen, Defense and Military Attaché, and other
By Arayawangso Bhikku 5
members of the Thai Embassy, and the representatives of
Thai Airways. I was very well taken care of upon arrival. My
accommodation was prepared according to the Vinaya by
Mr. Imran Shauket, who knew well how to extend proper
hospitality to a Buddhist monk. The kind generosity shown
by everyone was deeply appreciated. It was a very good start
to our future work together for the benefit of all peoples.
The programme on 29th October 2019 was tight. I left
the accommodation at 08.30 a.m.to receive alms offering at
the Royal Thai Embassy. At 11.00 a.m., I was invited to give a
Dhamma talk on the development of Buddhist World
Heritage sites at the World Bank Campus. The Country
Director of World Bank delivered a welcome remark,
followed by an explanatory note by Mr. Atif Khan, Senior
Minister for Tourism( Khyber Pakhtunkhwa province), the
remarks by Mr.Zulfikar Ali Bukhar (Special Assistant to
Prime Minister on Oversea Pakistanis) and Dr.Abdul Samad
(Director of Archeology and Museums, KP). I proceeded to give
a 15-minute talk which I will elaborate upon in the next chapter.
(I was drafting this manuscript in Islamabad on 30th
October 2019, while preparing to travel to share loving-kindness
across Peshawar, the land of Buddhist civilisation. Buddhism
gloriously flourished during the Kushan Dynasty, especially
under the reign of King Kanishka. Formerly known as
Purushapura, Peshawar was the Buddhist capital of the Kushan
Empire in Gandhara. I would be ringing the Bell of Peace from
6 Onwards to Gandhara : Revealing the Buddhist Heritage of Pakistan
the Buddhist sacred land - to awaken the spirit of civilisation
and to send the peace signal to the international community
and to every realm. This was another historical chapter worthy
of record - the first of its kind to happen on the land of Buddhist
World Heritage in the Islamic Republic of Pakistan...after
Buddhism has faded away from this land for more than a
thousand years!)
With Metta,
Arayawangso Bhikkhu
By Arayawangso Bhikku 7
28th October, 2562 Departure for Islamabad,
Islamic Republic of Pakistan
H.E. Ambassador Asim lftikhar Ahmad bidding farewell to MV Arayawangso
at Suvarnabhumi International Airport
8 Onwards to Gandhara : Revealing the Buddhist Heritage of Pakistan
The Long-awaited Day…
Onwards to Gandhara
(Chapter 2)
Blessing to devout Buddhists,
While I was writing this manuscript, social media in
Thailand was blasted with news on anti-Islamic protests against
a draft legislative bill on Islam seeking to revoke it, and
campaigns to constitute Buddhism as the nation’s religion by
the Constitution. Several religious scholars talked about the
collapse of Buddhism. Some said that they would wage a
non-violent fight that would benefit everyone and every faith,
that they would fight for Buddhism, the religion of the Lord
Buddha. They were convinced that “so long as Buddhism
stays, every institution will survive. If not, no other institutions
can survive.”
Upon my return to Thailand on 2nd November 2019,
I was hoping to start writing Chapter 2 of “Onward to Gandhara,
Jambudvīpa.” So, my pen began to waver as I pondered which
way to go: a draft Islamic bill or work for the continuation
Buddhism. However, I had been invited to study the remains
of Buddhist civilisation in Gandhara, Kamboja, Matsya, all
recognised as World Heritage sites.These areas now largely
By Arayawangso Bhikku 9
overlap between Pakistan and Afghanistan. It was my first trip
to this land of Buddhist civilisation where Buddhism once
flourished, especially from the 5th to 7th Centuries BE, under the
Kushan dynasty.
On this trip, 15 lay people accompanied me. After
one night’s rest in Islamabad, I was invited to give a talk and
share my vision for the benefits of the development of the
Buddhist civilisation, listed as World Heritage sites by UNESCO,
with funding from the World Bank.
On 29th October 2019, we left our accommodation,
prepared according to the Vinaya, by Mr.Imran Schauket,
for the Royal Thai Embassy followed by a visit to the World
Bank Campus to attend the 11.30 am meeting. We were
welcomed by the representative of Mr. Illango Patchmuthu,
Country Director, who later joined us in the meeting. Thereafter,
Mr. Atif Khan, Senior Minister and Minister for Tourism of
Khyber Pakhtunkhwa province, elaborated on the
archeological sites of Buddhist World Heritage in Gandhara
that is a part of Khyber Pakhtunkhwa, especially the area
of the old capital city of Gandhara, under the reign of Kushan
dynasty. It is now located 150 kilometres west of Islamabad.
We watched a presentation on the Buddhist World
Heritage sites, given by Dr. Abdul Samad, Director of
Archaeology and Museums of Khyber Pakhtunkhwa.
10 Onwards to Gandhara : Revealing the Buddhist Heritage of Pakistan
The presentation on Purushapura, capital of Gandhara
or Peshawar in Pakistan today, reminded me of the stories
recorded by a Chinese monk, Fa Hien. He wrote:
“Travelling with a Chinese Bhikku friend, we left
Gandhara and headed south. After a four day journey, we
arrived in Purushapura, the capital city, now called Peshawar.
During the Buddha’s time, He himself visited this city with his
followers. Lord Buddha told Venerable Ananda that after He
attained Nibbāna, a king called Kanishka would have a huge
stupa constructed here. Later, King Kanishka was born into this
world. One day, he went to visit his people around the city. Sakka
Devaraj wanted to test the King’s reaction. He transformed
himself into a group of small children who were playfully building
a stupa on the right hand side of the path that King Kanishka
would be passing so that he could spot it. The King asked: What
are you doing? One child replied: We are building a stupa as an
offering to Lord Buddha. King Kanishka said “Splendid” and
ordered his architects and builders to construct a huge stupa on
top of the children’s one. The stupa stood at 200 meters high,
decorated with sublime materials at every level.”
Fa Hien wrote that “among all the stupas and viharas
that I and my companion had seen, there was none as big and
significant as this one. It was said that the stupa built by King
Kanishka as an offering to the Buddha was the most magnificent
in the entire Jambudvīpa. It was said that when the stupa was
completed, the stupa, built by the children, emerged at 1.5 meters
high, underneath the magnificent stupa”.
By Arayawangso Bhikku 11
In addition to the most beautiful stupa in Jambudvīpa,
found in Peshawar, Fa Hien also recorded that “... the alms
bowl of Lord Buddha was also kept in this stupa. At this vi-
hara, there were more than 700 resident monks. At near noon
time, the monks would bring out the Buddha’s bowl. After
lunch, monks and lay devotees would place their offerings into
Lord Buddha’s alms bowl. In the evening, it was time for
fragrance offerings. Lord Buddha’s alms bowl would be
brought out again. The alms bowl could contain more than
two ‘tona.’ It had several colours but basically black, with
seam showing that there were four overlays inside, 1/5 inch
thick, and looked bright, shiny and clear.
When the poor and destitute put their flowers into Lord
Buddha’s bowl, even in small quantities, it would become
full. When the wealthy, the King, the ministers, the priests
wished to make an offering with flowers, no matter how much
they put in the bowl, it would never be full...”
Stories and traces of Buddhist civilisation are abundant
and appear in records and evidences because of the great King
of Gandhara’s devotion. From excavations, ancient Buddhist
artefacts such as Buddha images, viharas, and pagodas were
discovered in large quantity. This has led to some conviction
that the Buddha’s relics must still be kept somewhere there, too,
especially during the reign of Kushan dynasty when the glory
of Buddhism once again spread all over Jambudvīpa. Such
glory was comparable to that of the period of King Ashoka
the Great of Mauryan Dynasty of Magadha.
12 Onwards to Gandhara : Revealing the Buddhist Heritage of Pakistan
King Kanishka the Great, the third king of Kushan
dynasty, ascended the throne in 620 BE. With his faith and
devotion to Buddhism, he supported the Fourth Buddhist
Council at Chalandhorn or Kashmira (Kashmir). However,
some record indicates that it was held in the city of Peshawar
which cannot be far wrong since Chalandhorn or Kashmira
is not far from Peshawar in today’s Pakistan and 50
kilometres from Afghanistan. For the Fourth Buddhist
Council, the Tipitaka was recorded and kept inside the great
stupa - 550 ft in height. The stupa was said to be the most
beautiful in Jambudvīpa but there is no trace of it left today,
except those Buddhist artefacts that are kept in the Peshawar
Museum.
In front of the Museum, a Bell of Peace was installed
at my suggestion, to send the signal of Dhamma peace to
human spirits all over the world and to declare the power
of Dhamma as resolutely inscribed on the Bell of Peace. There
upon lies the heart of the Dhamma, based on the three principles
for true peace:
1. Abstain from all evils,
2. Cultivate wholesomeness
3. Purify one’s mind
The brass bells sent from Suvarnabhumi, Thailand, are
now installed in Gandhara, both at Taxila and Purushapura
or Peshawar. Two other sets of resolutions were inscribed on
them as follows:
By Arayawangso Bhikku 13
“May the power of Dhamma open the peace door for
all humanity now“
M.V. Arayawangso (Thailand)
30 October 2562 BE
And in Pali-English
“Santi-Dhamma Sadda Saññā” which means “A signal from the
sound of Dhamma Peace”
With Metta,
Arayawangso Bhikku
14 Onwards to Gandhara : Revealing the Buddhist Heritage of Pakistan
A Speech by M.V. Arayawangso
Given at the World Bank Office
Islamabad, Islamic Republic of Pakistan
29 October 2562 BE
To elevate the spirits of mankind from the control of worldly
conditions, defilements and cravings and to lift their consciousness
above all desires, towards liberation,
- THESE are the greatest release of bondage in the life of
mankind, to realise peace and happiness, from the return to real freedom
by Dhamma.
Religions, beliefs, and teachings can guide us along the path of
practice, to be liberated, free from the control of worldly conditions
caused by cravings.
We can learn to understand and become connected with the law
of nature, see the truth in natural law, that has the real power over all
things in the world, with the law of normality that:
“All things must be such as this, always like this, will never vary
from this,” which is: Impermanent, suffering, and… non-self.
Religions and teachings that make us understand the natural
law, use the knowledge and understanding in the development of life,
not to fall under the power of nature,
- THOSE are the true religions and teachings, known as: the
universal religion,
- based on the law of truth in nature,
- which is called Dhamma Power, or THE TRUTH (saccadhamma)
of the world.
By Arayawangso Bhikku 15
Mankind in all organizations, societies, and nations should
wake up, and become aware of this natural law, that has real power over
them and all phenomena in this world, and then find a way to get out of
that natural power, free from the bondage of the law of truth as exist
in nature, by understanding these four true principles (Dhammuddesa):
1) The world is unstable, being led onwards by old age.
All things that arise are subject to decay and disintegration
2) There is no resistance for the world
3) Nothing really belongs to the world. It is bound to leave all
things and depart, even our lives must return to nature.
4) The world is always deficient, insatiable, enslaved to the
power of desire
Natthi tanha sama nadi – There is no river that is comparable to
the river of desire
We should really promote education that aims towards knowledge
and understanding of the law of truth, known as saccadhamma, which can
always stand the test of time.
The arts and science regarding the history of civilization, or the
culture and tradition, indicating spiritual growth and prosperity of
mankind complete with wisdom, can lead to the right view, right
thought, and right practice.
Evidence worthwhile preserving as educational treasure and
heritage for mankind’s spiritual cultivation, should be supported to
continue its existence, for educational reference of mankind in all
era, to cultivate this valuable treasure of civilization.
I am focusing on the two key ancient sites under Pakistan ’s
protection
– Taxila and Peshawar, located in the former Gandhara
Kingdom.
16 Onwards to Gandhara : Revealing the Buddhist Heritage of Pakistan
It is my strongest wish that the World Bank, UNESCO, other
UN organizations, and the Islamic Republic of Pakistan, will join
force in the preservation of this great world heritage, for its continued
existence, and invite the global community to participate in the learning.
Our hope is to elevate the spirits of humanity, to truly realize
the full wisdom of noble beings.
For mankind, what is most important is true peace,
- PEACE that comes from spiritual development towards
liberation, with the right wisdom, based on learning, understanding,
and access to saccadhamma, as present in nature.
There is no need to make demand for real peace on any external
power, because real peace comes from mind cultivation of each
individual, to be perfect with wisdom, to know and understand the
natural world, as proper with the truth.
My wish is that,
the World Heritage that collects record of the valuable civilization
in Taxila and Peshawar, will be maintained in the context of
“Saccanurakkha”, that is, preserving the truth that appears in nature,
as demonstrated in the various symbols of arts and civilization, to continue
with an appreciation of their true value.
This land, and the immensely valuable intellectual treasure, will
be the major world heritage site, that people from around the world will
come to study, for thousand more years.
I give my blessing to every person and every organization
responsible for this honorable task, particularly the World Bank,
UNESCO, and the Islamic Republic of Pakistan.
May you accomplish your esteemed goal to maintain and preserve
this world heritage, keep it for eternity, with saccanurakkha.
By Arayawangso Bhikku 17
On 29th October 2019, first day Alms Offering at the
Royal Thai Embassy, Islamabad.
MV Arayawangso received alms offerings by H.E. the Thai Ambassador to
Islamabad, Embassy staff and Buddhist devotees, joined by Dr.Abdul Samad,
Director of Archaeology and Museums of KP, and Mr.Imran Shauket.
18 Onwards to Gandhara : Revealing the Buddhist Heritage of Pakistan
MV Arayawangso giving a brief Dhamma talk and blessing prior to receiving
food offerring.
The Thai way of making an offering to a Bhikkhu, who then reflects on it according
to the Discipline.
By Arayawangso Bhikku 19
The long-awaited day…
Onwards to Gandhara
(Chapter 3)
Blessing to devout Buddhists,
In previous chapter, I wrote about my long-awaited
journey to Gandhara in Jambudvīpa - to pay homage by Dhamma
practice to the precious Buddhadhamma that still exists in the
land of Buddhist civilisation, now declared UNESCO World
Heritage. With funding from the World Bank, the on-going
development of this area is befitting of the term ‘world heritage’
for all humanity, notwithstanding its being located in Pakistan,
an Islamic Republic, bordering with India, on the one side, and
Afghanistan, on the other.
It was no surprise that the long-awaited journey brought
joy after joy; I had long considered the pros and cons of it,
keeping in mind the supreme power of the Dhamma. This is
where Buddhism enjoyed its most glorious days during the
4th- 5th century BE before facing a decline in the 17th Century BE.
When all the circumstances fell into place, there was no reason
whatsoever for me to turn down the invitation. There upon,
a trip as a Theravada Buddhist monk to the Islamic Republic
of Pakistan was decided. A working team of 15 adventurous
laypersons, mostly over 60 and the rest, nearly 60, accompanied
20 Onwards to Gandhara : Revealing the Buddhist Heritage of Pakistan
me – to do a study tour to the land of Buddhist World Heritage.
They also wanted to see whether my paramitas (perfections)
would carry me through this mission to the land close to the
border of Afghanistan, through to Peshawar (also known as
Purushpura, the capital of Kushan Kingdom ruled by King
Kanishka the Great).
Kanishka was a devout Buddhist and a great supporter
of Buddhism. His great devotion to Buddhism earned him the
reputation of being “the Second King Ashoka (the Great).” He
built a 550 feet tall stupa to house the Tipitaka. In the 6th Century
BE, he presided over the Fourth Buddhist Council, representing
the kingdom side. The presiding figures on the Sangha side were
Venerable Vasumitra and Venerable Asvaghosa. In the era of
King Kanishka the Great, Buddhism was divided into 18 sects,
and could be categorised roughly into two principal branches:
Theravada and Mahayana.
This Fourth Buddhist Council is said to be a uniting one,
meaning it was attended by the Sangha from both main sects.
However, the Theravada sect felt that the Sarvastivada School,
though claimed to belong to Theravada (the traditional form of
Buddhism), was, in fact, a reformist.
So, the Theravada School, who adhered to original
Buddhism, became suspicious and did not accept this Fourth
Buddhist Council.
The increasing schism in the Sangha community
became apparent. The disharmony of the Order led to more