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Expedition
Expedition
Elsecar
Elsecar
A Self-Guided Walk
Join us on a self-guided tour of this historic heritage
village, discovering the location of Rhubarb Row,
seeking out the three collieries that existed and much
more. Starting out from the original basin of the Elsecar
branch of the Dove and Dearne canal, wandering down
the Trans Pennine Greenway, taking in the historic sites of the village’s first
school, the beam engine that transformed the coal mining industry, to the
‘bridge no more’. Then into the village of Elsecar where Earl Fitzwilliam
provided some of the best contemporary housing for his workers in this
model community.
This circular walk of just over one mile contains both canal side and road
walking. It is totally accessible for all ages and abilities including pushchairs,
and mobility scooters.
All photos copyright Neil Morris
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Elsecar is a small village situated in the Borough of Barnsley. A Yorkshire village
which was owned and built by the by rich aristocratic Fitzwilliam family from the
late 1700s onwards and now home to some of England’s best-preserved industrial
heritage. The Earls Fitzwilliams main seat was at the nearby Wentworth
Woodhouse, then the largest private home in Britain.
Elsecar is unique as a name. It is thought to derive from the Old English personal
name of Aelfsige and the Old Norse word kjarr, used to denote a marsh or
brushwood. Anecdotal evidence has it said that it was named after one local lady,
Elsie Carr, buried in the local church graveyard.
It quickly became an international centre of ironmaking and coalmining; Today,
Elsecar provides a rare glimpse into how our ancestors lived and worked. From
grand steel mills to innovations that changed the face of industry.
It’s 250 years industrial heritage, is still standing and waiting for you to explore!!, so
let’s get you started on your self -guided Expedition Elsecar walk.
Your journey begins at the entrance to the Elsecar Greenway on
Distillery Way (S74 8HN), opposite the Elsecar Heritage Centre
vehicle entrance, which was the site of the ironworks and old
workshops. You are now standing on the original basin of the
Elsecar branch of the Dearne and Dove Canal, which was constructed at the end of
the 18th century to carry coal from the colliery owned by Earl Fitzwilliam.
Looking to your right is the site of Elsecar New Colliery, sunk in
1794 to obtain coal from the Barnsley Seam. It was sunk to
allow the Fitzwilliams to expand coal production and exploit
new transport opportunities presented by the opening of the
canal which was given parliamentary approval in 1793 and
reached Elsecar in 1799. Before the completion of the canal the coal was either sold
locally or shipped by cart to Kilnhurst on the River Don.
This location has its original Newcomen pumping engine, an
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invention that revolutionised the mining industry in the 18
century. Many coal seams were too deep so, water from the
ground would flood the mines and make it impossible to work.
That’s where an inventor by the name Thomas Newcomen came
in. You see, he designed steam engines like the one here to
pump water out of the mines. Each engine could pull fifty gallons
of water in a single stroke, and some six hundred were built
across the country.
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The one here at Elsecar was built in 1797 and is the the only
Newcomen beam engine in the world to have remained in its
original location. It was built to the instructions of William
Wentworth, the 4th Earl Fitzwilliam and used to pump water
out of Elsecar New Colliery, running from 1795 until 1923 when
it was replaced by electric pumps and was restored in 2014.
Now take a wander round this site, read the interpretation boards,
and have a look at what is known as The Earl’s Great Engine. In this
picture the house on the extreme right behind the head gear was
the first Elsecar School, built in 1836.
Coal would come up from the mines to feed the huge furnaces
just over from where you are now. The finished iron would be
loaded onto barges and shipped down the canal. At one-point
Elsecar exported some two hundred thousand tonnes of goods
each year, but by 1850, the canal just wasn’t enough.
The railway was built in 1845 to keep up with demand and promoted
as the South Yorkshire Coal Railway. The Elsecar branch was opened
st
for mineral traffic on 1 March 1850 as a freight-only branch which
ran from Elsecar Junction to the Mexborough to Barnsley Line. The
canal was shortened to its present location, 150m down the track, with the old
basin filled with furnace waste and a railways siding was laid out on top.
The next stop is just a short walk of 300m along the canal and you are off to see
another mineshaft and it will appear poking out through the foliage and it might not
look like much, but those of you with a keen eye may spot something
out of place in the trees. This sign marks the site of Simon Wood
Colliery, alongside the canal sunk in 1853, encouraged by the
excellent freight links, closing in 1903 and was replaced by the Elsecar
Main Colliery, which is located to the other side of the railway.
Now, it’s no accident that the shaft is so close to the canal. Coal
coming up from the shaft was loaded into barges moored right
along here. See the stones along the edge and if you are
wondering how the miners got to work, cast your eyes over to
the other side of the canal, ‘to the ‘bridge no more’. It might not
look like much, but this is what remains of the bridge, that once came right over
where we are now. Connecting the mine to the village which, funnily
enough is where you are headed next into the village of Elsecar, as
we walk the next 150m to Wath Road and then turn left.
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4 & 5
4 & 5
As industry increased there was a need for housing and seven
rows of cottages of historical significance were built by the 4th
Earl Fitzwilliam. The housing in question was actually incredibly
high quality, especially for mining accommodation. They are
absolutely lovely today, but the people living in them or people walking past, may
be unaware of their connection to the village’s mining heritage.
Walking 100m up the slight hill from the canal you approach one
of the most interesting pieces of housing. Cobcar Terrace, at the
corner of Cobcar Lane, built around 1860,
Grade 2 listed, or as it’s more locally known,
Rhubarb Row. Why? it’s quite simple: they used to grow Rhubarb
in the front as part of the WW2 Dig for Victory campaign.
The housing provided for their workers was regarded as being of a superior quality,
built with walled yards to both front and rear to provide private an outdoor space in
addition to the separate allotment garden that was assigned to each cottage.
Moving along to Reform Row, also a Grade 2 listed building, built
in 1837. This is a stunning terrace of 28 cottages forming a long,
curved, two-storey row. To its centre there is a round-arched
passage with an oval plaque set above inscribed 'REFORM ROW 1837'. Why Reform
Row? The Fifth Earl Fitzwilliam (1786-1857) prior to becoming the Earl in 1833, was
an MP who supported the passing of the 1832 Reform Act in which Parliament
passed a law that changed the British electoral system which basically gave the vote
to middle class men, leaving working men disappointed.
Looking across Wath Road we see the remains of old Elsecar Main
Ambulance Store, a remanent of past industry. The Fitzwilliams were
wealthy landowners and industrialists, responsible for Elsecar’s rich
heritage, bringing coal, iron, and housing to Elsecar. However, there
was another industry, flour milling and 300m just across the road, is the Elsecar
Mill. This splendid building is the old flour mill, constructed in 1842 as a corn mill.
However, in 1874 tragedy struck due to fire. Villagers rushed to help, but alas,
everything was destroyed causing £4,000 worth of damage. In today’s money,
£480,000.
By 1895, the site was for sale, and by 1899, any and all
machinery was put to sale by auction. The Fitzwilliams stepped in
and in 1929, they opened the building as a new flour mill with a
grand ceremony. That heritage is clear for all to see even today. As you can see, the
letters E.F.W are situated on the third storey. These stand for the Earl Fitzwilliam of
Wentworth. Today, this is a stained-glass shop. Now crossing back over the road is
your next stop: the Holy Trinity Church.
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th
Under the 5 Earl Fitzwilliam, Elsecar saw a massive wave of
building. New housing, colliery shafts sunk, and the mill.
However, he also oversaw the construction of another new type
of building: this time, not one of industry, but one of religion,
building this church as Elsecar had grown so much that a place for formal religious
gathering was necessary.
th
On Pentecost Monday, 1842, the 5 Earl himself laid the
foundation stone and costing £2,500
to build, £300,000 in today’s money.
Consecrated by the Archbishop of
York on Whit Monday 1843, little has changed over the
years. One of the most striking features of the church are
the 4 stained-glass windows made by Morris & Co of London, installed in 1920 which
are dedicated to the men of Elsecar who gave their lives in World War 1.
A notable burial in Elsecar churchyard is that of hymn composer Laban Solomon (died
1903), a favourite of Queen Victoria who lived on Church Street and is buried beneath
a kneeling angel. Have a wander around the 2 graveyards, 1 at the rear of the church
and the other opposite across Church Street.
Wandering 300m down Wath Road you arrive at Old Row
which was built for the fourth Earl Fitzwilliam (1748-1833)
to house workers for Elsecar New Colliery. This terrace of
15 plain, two storey cottages, constructed by 1795, was
one of the earliest (potentially the first) rows of industrial workers' houses built for
the estate. These are Grade II-listed properties.
Across the road is the Elsecar goods station, constructed at the terminus of the South
Yorkshire Railways branch line from Elsecar Junction on its Mexborough to Barnsley
line, which closely followed the line of the canal. In 1930 the facilities in the yard
included a goods shed with crane and sidings; the local gas works as well as the
building containing the Earl’s private railway station. The facilities were closed in the
early 1970s.
Walking back into the car park off Wath Road the Station
Masters House is on your left and on the opposite side of
the entrance is the Gas Works
House. The local Gas Works was
built in 1857 and run by the Elsecar, Wentworth and Hoyland
Gas Company.
Turn right and walking 300m you are back at your starting point on Distillery Way.
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Expedition Elsecar
Josh Daniels is a freelance Yorkshire based public historian and
documentary maker and holds a master’s degree in Public
History. Starting his movie making career aged 11, when along
with a friend they made a film about a singing competition, in
which he played an old man - and won!
Inspired by a history teacher who had an infectious enthusiasm
for the subject led to him studying this at Uni.
He now has a real passion and love of making historical documentaries, sharing his
interests with others and bring communities together.
Neil Morris is one of the founders of charity Westwood 2015
and is its Community Lead.
Churchill Fellow, Teacher, Author, with 30 years’ experience of
working in communities.
His keen interest in history and heritage was inspired again by a
teacher whilst attending Maltby Grammar School; the same
school that Josh attended but in a different era and with a
different name.
Westwood 2015 Limited, established in
2015; becoming a charity in 2018, charity
number 179952. Its charitable objective is
expressed as stopping people becoming
socially excluded, which they define as Stopping Social Segregation. Westwood
supports both its Local Geographic Community and other communities of interest,
or circumstance by developing inclusive projects and activities that can provide
something for all. It is Volunteer Led and makes Volunteer Opportunities Available.
Email Contact Details
Neil Morris - neil@westwood2015.org
Josh Daniels - joshdanielshist@gmail.com
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