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Published by venkatdesignsb, 2021-06-03 00:52:48

Jamalpur, the Town the British Built

Jamalpur 06102018

6. GROWTH OF THE TOWNSHIP with East-West and North-South roads. With sprawling
bungalows meant for the Europeans and Anglo Indians, the
Jamalpur was conceived and built as a British township. colony presented an elegant look. This part of the township also
Even before the advent of railway colonies in India, British had the railway workshop, the European Institute (later, the
town planning principles had been applied in Cantonments Central Institute) for social gatherings and games, Churches,
and ‘Civil Lines’ in the country, where the British military Post Office, Hospital, Cemetery, a tank, Apprentice Institute
and ‘covenanted’ British employees were located. The plans and hostel.
were based on geometrical regularity. Architectural design
of the houses tried to minimise the discomfort caused by the Well maintained roads with trees in East Colony.
extreme Indian climatic conditions. As a result, pitched roofs, Credit: ‘On Tracks of Empire – Unite and Divide, Part II), Youtube,
high ceilings, thick walls, generous use of ventilators and large
windows, and deep verandas that encircled the house, became Suman Kurian
common features to keep the house cool during summer
months. The colonial ‘bungalow’ (derived from ‘bangla’, the
Bengali thatched hut) was set on extensive grounds which
ensured privacy and marked a distance from the Indian world
around. The size of the house and compound, and amenities
provided, were based on the level of an employee in the
hierarchy of an organisation. The compound had separate
quarters for a retinue of domestic servants. The civil lines and
the colonies became racially exclusive enclaves in which the
Europeans could lead self-sufficient lives without much social
contact with Indians.

In Jamalpur, the railway track divided the town into two parts
along the north-south axis. To the east was the European quarter
of the town, the ‘East Colony,’ laid on rectangular regularity

42  JAMALPUR: The Town the British Built

Spacious bungalows for Europeans in East Colony. Well-designed house with verandah. Photo by GSP Rao.
Credit: ‘On Tracks of Empire – Unite and Divide’ YouTube
The entire focus of the town planners, right from the beginning,
The western part of the town had quarters for the Indian was on East Colony and its environs. Well maintained tar
clerical staff, the ‘Rampur Colony,’ laid out on geometrically roads with trees on either side and trimmed lawns and
radial design, with roads moving away from a central hub. gardens in each bungalow presented a green and elegant look
This part also had the Sadar Bazar, general market, and private to the entire colony. Kipling wrote: “Crotons, palms, mangoes,
colonies for the native population. These were crowded and mellingtonias, teak, and bamboos adorn (the colony), and
congested, mostly unplanned and lacking in civic amenities. the poinsettia and bougainvillea, the railway creeper and the
To this day, the western segment lacks good roads, drainage bignonia venusta, make it gay with many colours. It is laid out
system and general sanitary conditions. The main bridge over the with military precision to each house, its just share of garden,
railway tracks, the Badi Pul, connected the two parts of the town. its red brick path, its growth of trees, and its neat little wicket
gate. Its general aspect, in spite of the Dutch formality, is that of
an English village, such a thing as enterprising stage-managers
put on the theatres at home.”

The well-designed bungalows were in red brick with graceful Growth of the Township  43 
verandas having slanting tiled roofs, chimneys, fireplaces
and ventilators. Security and hygiene were of paramount lived in congested and ill-planned western part of the town.
importance for the welfare of Europeans and there was While the babus lived in Rampur Colony quarters, the rest of
unrelenting emphasis on cleanliness. Other than the servants the work force had to make their own arrangement for housing.
who lived in outhouses of the bungalows, and door-to-door The growth of the workshop in the initial decades led to more
vendors, natives did not have free access to the East Colony. It and more workers flocking to Jamalpur and to mushrooming of
was an exclusive zone. bastis in the western part. This further added to the unhygienic
living conditions. Quarters in the Rampur Colony were very
There was racial segregation in the town. Europeans, who held small and, typically, had two quarters attached to a single block.
managerial and supervisory positions in the workshop, and They did not have compounds and lacked the kind of amenities
Anglo Indians, who were mostly station masters, engine drivers the inhabitants of East Colony enjoyed. Thus, the divide was
and guards, lived in the East Colony. Educated Bengalis who between whites and browns with differential treatment. The
constituted bulk of ‘babus,’ the white collared staff, and the less- diverse population of Europeans, Anglo Indians, Bengalis and
qualified Biharis, who were mechanics and workers in the shops, Biharis forged different forms of sociability; and the workshop
and other civic amenities were shaped accordingly.

Congested Sadar Bazar in western part. Ph by G Ramakrishna Rao Avantika Road, Rampur. Ph. by G Ramakrishna Rao

44  JAMALPUR: The Town the British Built water – as a site for heavy industrial works was brought into
question. When rainfall was low, water had to be brought from
Thus, while the East colony had European culture, the western the Ganges at Monghyr. Later, in 1912, a 1½ feet diameter pipe
part of Jamalpur was Indian in character. was laid over a stretch of 8 kms to pump water from the river
to the tank in Jamalpur. The railway colony started receiving
There have been different estimates of the number of Europeans municipal water. In 1916, there was a proposal to extend the
who worked and lived in Jamalpur in the nineteenth century. It railway water supply system to the bazar area but that did not
was assessed at around 600 (including Eurasians, or later called go through.
Anglo Indians) in 1864 and at 300 Britishers in 1865. Rudyard In 1863, Jamalpur was brought under the Towns Act XXVI of
Kipling put the figure at 200 in 1888, while the Imperial 1850. Under this, the Europeans petitioned the Government for
Gazeteer of 1908 gave the figure as ‘230 Europeans and 9000 various amenities, like a swimming pool, trees along the roads,
native mechanics and labourers’ in the shops. One has to add
the families to the figures of working staff. Mechanics Institute, 1897
© The British Library Board, UK (Photo 15/8, 18)
Jamalpur has been variously described as ‘Crewe of India,’
an important junction station with locomotive works, set up
in 1840 in Cheshire; an ‘English Village’ by Kipling, and even
‘Mini-England’ by Andrew Flynn, an Anglo Indian resident of
Jamalpur.

Post 1857 mutiny, the British placed increased importance on
securing of defence of railway towns, the extensive workshops
and equipment; and of rolling stocks. Safety and health of
European lives were of utmost importance and sanitation
concerns were directly related to this.

Initially the water needs of the inhabitants and the workshop
were met by rain water collected in tanks and reservoirs. Soon
the requirement of the workshop grew to 3,50,000 gallons a day.
Provision of adequate water supply assumed such importance
that selection of Jamalpur – a town without natural supply of

European Institute (present day Central Institute). Growth of the Township  45 
Credit: thejamalpur.com
laid out with neatness and regularity, the drainage is
amusement centre, good roads for equestrian and carriage complete, and the houses, both for men and officers have
exercises, public ground, cricket and rifle grounds, alleys for been erected on the most advanced principles of sanitary
bowls, skittles and quoits, library and coffee room, and even science. There are two Christian churches, a mechanics’
mehtars (sweepers) under the company. Most of these were institute, a library, recreation grounds, a racket court, and
granted and set up. A Mechanics Institute was sanctioned in a band, supplied with instruments from a fine and forfeit
1866 and was to contain library, reading and billiard rooms, fund, and in fact every appliance which could conduce
baths and entertainment halls. to the rational enjoyment of the men off duty. It is the
object of the Company to extend these advantages as far
While presenting the annual report for 1867–1868 in both as possible to other stations in proportion to the European
Houses of the British Parliament, Juland Danvers, Government population.” (‘Report to the Secretary of State for India’,
Director of the Indian railway companies, commented: 70. Quoted in Nitin Sinha’s book)

“At Jumalpore, the great workshop of the line, a large The Officer bungalows in East Colony had three outhouses,
European population has been planted, which is one each for cook, sweeper and dhobi. Mali too frequently
constantly on the increase. This settlement . . . has been visited the houses to tend the gardens. The inmates of these
outhouses had a status higher than the other natives due to
their proximity to Europeans. Europeans and Anglo Indians
with young children engaged ayahs (nannies). Meat sellers
and other service providers would visit the colony. These
contributed to social contacts of Europeans with the natives.

By 1870s and 80s, Indians were being appointed to posts of
Station Master, Guard and Driver, earlier held by Europeans
and Anglo Indians, as Indians were found to be equally
competent and less expensive to the company. This increased
the competition and complicated the racial segregation in town.

46  JAMALPUR: The Town the British Built drastically from 18,089 in 1891 (Census data) to 13,929 in 1901
because of plague.
Special Class Apprentice scheme was started in 1927. This was
open to Anglo Indians too but very few could make it to its Labour issues
ranks. As Blair Williams points out, among 500 SCAs or so
around late 1950s, only fifteen were Anglo Indians. With wider exposure to labour related issues, the workers
organised themselves better and exerted themselves through
A new work and town culture evolved over a period of time. strikes. The beginning of 20th century saw a succession of
Kipling called babus, “the lubricants of the great machinery strikes – in the years 1906-07, 1912, 1919 and 1922. The longest
of the company.” They were imbibing and inversing a newly of these lasted close to 6 weeks in 1919. The labour unrest
emerging urban morality. They ate foreign biscuits, drank brought Jamalpur under stronger control and intervention of
lemonade and soda, wore boots and kept mistresses, besides district administrators at Monghyr.
consuming liquor. An urban, secular, modernist outlook of a
workshop centred town was building. This was not hinged on A new phase of political activism in the 20th century also saw
race or skill or education, or even Europeans versus Indians. visits to Monghyr and Jamalpur of nationalist leaders. The
(Nitin Sinha) growing Bengali middle class was influenced by the cultural
trends sweeping Bengal. Literary and religious figures such as
Plague Banaphool, Sarat Chandra, Swami Ramakrishna Paramahansa
and Keshab Chandra Sen visited Jamalpur. the last named
Between 1911-21, the dreaded plague killed 5000 people in stayed in Jamalpur long enough for Keshopur in the town to
Monghyr district, of whom around 2000 died in Jamalpur. The be named after him. All this affected the cultural mores of the
year 1918 was the severest in terms of the impact of plague in town.
the township. Obviously, the emphasis laid on cleanliness and
sanitation during earlier decades had not borne fruits. This could In 1941, Jamalpur EIR Labour Union submitted a list of
also be because of the fact that all the emphasis on cleanliness provisions to improve labour conditions. This appeared
was restricted to the East Colony, where the inhabitants were somewhat similar to the petition of Europeans in 1863. The list
relatively safer. All the deaths due to plague happened in the included open spaces, parks and gardens; Akharas; Installation
western parts of the township and nearby bastis. Plague was a of radio sets, free reading rooms and library; Workmen Institute;
major cause of deaths earlier too. Imperial Gazetteer of India,
Vol 14 refers to the population of Jamalpur having come down

Growth of the Township  47 

Employees Welfare Centre. Workers’ Canteen in the Workshop.
Credit: “150 Yrs of Jamalpur Workshop,” YouTube, Nitin Mehrotra Credit: “150 Yrs of Jamalpur Workshop,” YouTube.

Rest Hall, a tiffin room with restaurant during meal hours, heaters during winters; arrangement for lectures by prominent
and bath-halls; provision of adequate housing for workers; speakers, and instructive shows on labour problems and
free filtered water supply; electric fans during summers and machinery. Most of these were accomplished. The workers had
become more aware and sensitive towards their conditions.

7. THE SOCIAL LIFE and commitment to the Railways. Anglo-Indian females were
the earliest women in the country to take up jobs like steno-
The social life at Jamalpur in the decades after establishment typists, telephone operators and nurses in hospitals, not just in
of the Railway Workshop in 1862 was influenced by the British the Railways but in private organisations as well, and paved
families living here, and thereafter till Indian Independence the way for women’s emancipation and empowerment in India.
by the inheritors of British culture in India, the Anglo-Indians.
In this chapter, the focus is essentially on the social lifestyle V Anand, a retired General Manager of Southern Railway says,
of inhabitants of the East Colony, which is identified with “The Anglo-Indians made the Indian Railways what it is now.
Jamalpur in the popular imagination. “Jamalpur begins and Their contribution to the development of the Indian Railways
ends with the East colony…” as an old resident reminisced. was immense. They dominated the supervisory and higher
management echelons particularly in the pre-independence
A large segment of the inhabitants of East colony were Anglo- era.” (‘Unsung Heroes of the Railways in India,’ Footprints on
Indians till Indian independence. They were the backbone the Track1. 19).
of Railway operations throughout India and were scattered
across the country in scores and scores of railway stations and The highly revered Anglo-Indian Parliamentarian, Late Frank
townships. The hardworking community kept the flag of Indian Anthony said that “the stability and progress of the Railways
Railways fluttering high with their dedication and disciplined depended on the Anglo-Indians.” Speaking of their dedication,
effort that saw running of hundreds of trains on time. Anglo- he continued, “In their private moments even the most ardent
Indians were preferred in recruitment by the British and formed advocates of the egalitarian principle will admit that with
the vast majority of engine drivers, guards, station masters and the decline in the employment of Anglo-Indians, the sense of
permanent way inspectors till 1920s. With almost 95 percent of discipline and service in this great public utility concern has
Anglo-Indian males working for the railways, and their children steadily and even precipitately fallen.” (‘In Frank Anthony’s
reasonably assured of placements in it, appropriate to their skills, Words,’ Footprints on the Track, 15)
the community considered Railway service almost a hereditary
profession. And this special bond got reflected in their loyalty 1 “Footprints on the Track,” Editor Noel Thomas.

The Social Life  49 

Social gatherings for sports and games, were popular in Jamalpur. Private parties were common too.
Courtesy: Maureen Young Courtesy: Maureen Young

Anglo-Indians worked hard but also knew how to relax were from this community. Most of the Institutes also had
and enjoy life, when not on duty. They were a very sociable swimming pool, reading room, dance floor and a music band.
community and actively pursued outdoor and social life. The institutes provided the perfect ambience for the Anglo-
The community loved music and dance, and vibrant club Indian families to meet regularly for the Saturday dances,
life. The Anglo-Indian Institute was a common feature in all which were wildly popular. On special occasions, it was quite
the railway townships across the country. These Institutes common for community members from other nearby railway
had good facilities for outdoor games like tennis, volleyball, townships to join in the balls and gaiety.
basketball, etc. and indoor sports like billiards, carroms,
card games, etc. Because of these opportunities many Anglo- This social life, which defined the joie-de-vivre of the
Indians distinguished themselves at the national level. Some community, was the same across the country, in railway
of the finest tennis and billiards players early in the country townships. Jamalpur was no different in this respect and given

50  JAMALPUR: The Town the British Built stress on enjoying life without thinking of tomorrow. Why
think of the future? Why save? The Railways looked after you
the large number of Anglo-Indians who lived here, had even and when you had to retire you got your Provident Fund and,
better facilities and resources than most other places. Blair hopefully, your sons would have joined the Railways and your
Williams, who was a SCA in Jamalpur, recalls: “The Railway daughter would have married good railway men.” (Footprints
Institute was huge – it had its own movie theatre, a six-lane on the Tracks, Page 35)
swimming pool, four tennis courts, two billiard rooms and
a bowling lawn. Its dances were renowned and railway folk Reminiscing about the emphasis on smart turn-outs for the
came from all over EIR to attend.” dances, Eugene D’Cruz declares, “I still cannot believe the
grandeur: every gent in suit, some ex-Army men in shell jackets,
The Railway Institutes occupied a special niche in the Anglo- waxed whiskers … I am writing about the mid and late years of
Indian social scheme. “The Senior Institute, the ‘Inster’ as it 1920s … dancing pumps, dangling watch chains with pendants
was called, was usually the preserve of the community … the and gloves on the right hand. Every lady in a long gown, well-
centre of their community life. … The social functions at the bedecked and ready for the Waltz, Roger de Coverly, the Grand
Institute, especially the dances, were marked by a warmth and March and Lancers, a dance that’s fascinating, the movements,
sense of fun that characterise the community,” wrote Frank the weaving and all the curtseying, the galloping Polka, the
Anthony. Charleston and all the then latest steps.” (Footprints on the
Tracks, Page 92)
Margaret Deefholts recalls, “As children we were ‘seen and not
heard’ at home and were packed to bed by 8 o’clock, but at the Institute was the nerve centre where everything happened –
Institute, kids swarmed all over the place – and nobody seemed tender moments shared, relationships made and broken. Harry
to mind if they stayed up until after midnight. Youngsters ran Maclure states: “As they say, if only the Institute had a tongue,
and slid along the French-chalked dance floor, babies sat on it could tell many an Anglo-Indian tale: the growth of the
their grandmother’s laps and toddlers were fussed over by Community, the love-stories, the engagements, the weddings,
friends and families. A wind-up gramophone blared above the the anniversaries, the dances, the sporting events, the socials,
din and confusion, and the music was lively and rhythmic, so the bands ….. and the decline of the Community.” (Footprints
much more catchy than the classical nocturnes and études on on the Tracks, Page 144)
our gramophone at home.” (Footprints on the Tracks, Page 30)
Yvonne Eva Le Fort, who was born in 1933, talks of social
Talking of the carefree attitude of the Anglo-Indians, Colleen life in Jamalpur during late 1930s and 40s: “Socially, almost
Gantzer avers, “Railway society people placed considerable

every evening was lively with bingo or bridge or whist game, The Social Life  51 
or movie night, or tennis/badminton or golf and swimming
tournaments. Saturday night dances were with live orchestra Life in Jamalpur even during 1880s appear no different.
and vocalist playing/singing popular hits of the big band war Rudyard Kipling wrote after staying in Jamalpur for some time
era. Glenn Miller’s IN THE MOOD …and STARDUST AND during early 1888: “Best and prettiest of the many good and
MOONLIGHT SERENADE are iconic music still evoking pretty things in Jamalpur is the institute of a Saturday when
memories of those years for me. This was a great place for the Volunteer Band is playing and the tennis courts are full and
the young men from the institute to meet the pretty young the babydom of Jamalpur—fat, sturdy children—frolic around
daughters of families attending the dances.” the band-stand. The people dance—but big as the institute
is, it is getting too small for their dances—they act, they play
Officers at the Railway Officers Club, 1940s. billiards, they study their newspapers, they play cards and
Credit: “150 Yrs of Jamalpur Loco Works 1862-2012” A K Sinha everything else, and they flirt in a sumptuous building, and
in the hot weather the gallant apprentice ducks his friend in
the big swimming-bath. Decidedly the railway folk make their
lives pleasant.” (“The Vulcan’s Forge”)

The Railway Institute had much to offer for children too. Peter
Moss, who had his upbringing in Jamalpur, reminisces: “A more
familiar haunt was the inevitable railway institute, where Paul
and I, accompanied by other extremely well-behaved children,
all of us escorted by our ayahs, attended formal birthday
parties. The central feature of these parties, or the main event
as it were, was the ceremonial bursting of the khoia bag, a ritual
resembling what Mexicans call the piñata.” And again, “It was
also at the Jamalpur railway institute that we watched our first
movies. Among the latter were old Arthur Askey comedies,
including his scary Ghost Train, and the first animated cartoon
of Gulliver’s Travels, in which a scene where the sleeping hero
is pegged out by Lilliputians left me profoundly disturbed.”

52  JAMALPUR: The Town the British Built ’

John Alton Price, an army officer, was stationed in Jamalpur The Jamalpur Jazz group of ‘Ivan’ Evangelista performing at the
for some time in 1940s and writes nostalgically: “The Railway Institute. Credit: thejamalpur.com
Institute was a ‘Godsend’ and we were to discover its joys
quite soon. On Saturdays a dance was held. The Musicians Besides sports, music and dances at the Institute, there were
who entertained us were a small family of Philippinos; very private family parties held at residences as well. As Yvonne
nice people. These dances were well attended, and we found recounts: “Then there were times for entertaining visitors at
the company most friendly and agreeable.” And continues, home in the garden on evenings that stretched into the dark
“The European Railway Institute (the Indians had their own with a sky peppered with stars overhead. Lots of spicy finger
Institute) was a fairly comprehensive Club of a good standard. foods on demand from the bawarchi in the kitchen were
The facilities were: Swimming Pool and Tennis Courts and served by the white-clad, and very respectful, turbaned bearer.
some Courts for Badminton. Inside the Club was a good size An assortment of spicy chanas to go along with Indian beer
Hall used as a Cinema and on Dance nights the chairs were and shandies and gingerales and scarlet Vimto drinks plus
cleared to the sides and some tables set up. Also ‘Housie delectable sweets like rasgollas, gulab jamoons and jelabis and
Housie’ (Bingo) and Whist games were also played here. yummy barfi. Sometimes kulfi too … we were one of the first
Next to this was a very well furnished ‘Cocktail’ Bar for the
Ladies … or anyone for that matter. Through to a Library and
Reading room. The Billiards room also had its own Bar, all the
necessary Wash rooms and Lavatories were included in the
building. Many happy hours were spent at this Institute and
many friends made.”

Filipino Jazz bands were quite popular in India from 1920s
till Indian Independence. They performed at several places
including Calcutta, Bombay, Lucknow and Mussoorie. There
was a Filipino band at the Jamalpur Institute too during 1930s
and 40s, led by Joaquin ‘Ivan Evangelista, a violinist, who had
moved to Jamalpur in 1938. His wife Winifred sang and played
ukulele for the band. They performed in Jamalpur and travelled
to other places during the week.

families to have a Frigidaire standing in our dining room … The Social Life  53 
kitchen was not big enough for it!!” Bowling was a popular sport. Courtesy: Maureen Young

There were group outings and picnics at the hills too. Happy
Valley near the Water Works Department was a favourite place
for such gatherings. The elevated place commanded a beautiful
view of the Rajmahal hills and the valley below. The wooden
bridge in the lake near the Water Works was a favourite place
for fishing.

Golf, bowling and cricket were major pastimes. The sprawling
maidan offered verdant space for golf, which is now converted
into an 18-hole golf course. There is an annual tournament

Picnic at the Happy Valley. Courtesy: Maureen Young

54  JAMALPUR: The Town the British Built team. In return, the Gymkhanites would go over to Monghyr
sometimes to play there. These would be enjoyable social
Tennis was popular too. Credit: thejamalpur.com occasions. In the early decades of 20th century, the PT factory had
organized by the Railway Ecological Golf Club (REGC) that a large base of Europeans and Anglo-Indians. There would be
attracts golfers from across the country. There was a bowling social interaction between the families of Jamalpur and Monghyr.
alley behind St Mary’s Church where families would gather
over the weekends. Bengali and Bihari families living in the western parts of
The Gymkhana used to host cricket matches between the local Jamalpur town had their own celebrations of Indian festivals
team and the Peninsular Tobacco Factory of Monghyr (now ITC) like Holi, Saraswati Puja, Durga Puja and Diwali with the usual
fervour. For Biharis, Chhat puja, held during the week after
Diwali, to invoke blessings of Sun God, was (and is) an important
event when entire families got together and celebrated; when
children returned home to join in the festivities. Though there
were no good sports facilities in this part of the town, people
played football and other Indian sports and games in the open
grounds. Bengali boys were particularly good at football. There
was a sizeable Muslim community in Jamalpur, mostly living
in the Sadar Bazar area, which celebrated its own festivals of
Eid. There was good communal harmony till the early decades
of the 20th century, before political developments in the country
brought in a rift between Hindus and Muslims. However, social
amity has been a hallmark of Jamalpur.

The Social Life  55 

Durga Visarjan at the hillside lake. Credit: thejamalpur.com Huge gathering for Chhat Parab at the lake.
Credit: thejamalpur.com

8. ANANDA MARGA social activity centres in different countries of the world. The
mission runs schools, medical units, children’s homes, rural
Jamalpur is the birth place of Ananda Marga (the Path of Bliss), development projects and meditation and yoga centers, and is
a socio-spiritual organisation that was founded in January a leading global agency for social development and progress
1955 by Prabhat Ranjan Sarkar (1921-1990), an accountant with particular emphasis in the third world.”
at the Jamalpur Locomotive Workshop, to impart training
in meditation and yoga. Sarkar’s movement had a two-part Prabhat Ranjan Sarkar Establishment of Monastic Order, 1962
mission of “self-realization and service to all.” His system of Courtesy: pathofbliss.com
spiritual practice has been described as a practical synthesis of
Vedic and Tantric philosophies1. He took the spiritual name Margis have been involved in a series of violent incidents over
of Anandamurthi (Embodiment of Bliss). With his charismatic the decades that has given them notoriety as a terrorist group.
persona, he soon collected a large number of followers who They have not been able to live this down. Sarkar established a
reverentially called him ‘Baba’ (father). He quickly developed political wing, Proutist Bloc of India, that entered into electoral
a cult status. politics but without much success. Sarkar’s focus on poverty-
stricken areas in Bengal and Bihar brought the party in direct
By 1967, Sarkar moved to Purulia in West Bengal where he set conflict with communists ruling West Bengal as well as some
up his head-quarters, Anandnagar (the city of eternal bliss), on
a 500-acre land gifted by the Raja of Garh Jaipur, one of his
followers2. The sect gathered great momentum and spread to
other parts of India and several other countries. Money from
foreign sources started flowing in freely.

As the official website of the organisation proclaims: “Today
Ananda Marga is a world-wide organization with spiritual and

1 “Ananda Marga.” en.wikipedia.org, accessed 25 Oct 2016.
2 “Anand Marg – the bloody face of religion.” Chand Joshi.
Indiatoday.in, Apr 17, 2015

tribals. This led to violent clashes between the cadres, and Ananda Marga  57 
murders. When some Avadhoots rebelled against Sarkar, he
is believed to have authorised six of them being taken to the in a violent clash in South Calcutta. None has been arrested
jungles and brutally killed3. He and some of his followers were or charged for this till date8 and Ananda Margis regularly
arrested, convicted and sentenced to life imprisonment in 1971. protest against this travesty of justice. In more recent times, the
Fed up with him, his wife left the organisation and exposed controversial Purulia Arms drop incident has caught national
its real functioning. His private secretary too left4. However, and international attention. A Latvian aircraft dropped a large
Sarkar was acquitted of all the charges and released in 1978, consignment of arms including several hundred AK-47 rifles
and later undertook two world tours covering several countries and more than a million rounds of ammunition over a large
to spread his spiritual gospel5. He died in 1990. area covering many villages of Purulia district in December
1995. The pilot and the crew were caught when they revisited
Three members of the Marg were sentenced to 17 years’ the area a few days later. It was alleged that the arms were
rigorous imprisonment for their abortive attempt on the life meant for Ananda Marga. However, the principal accused, Kim
of Supreme Court Chief Justice, A.N. Ray. Fortunately, the Davy claimed that the central government itself was behind
hand-grenades thrown into the Chief Justice’s car which was the arms drop to disrupt harmony and exterminate the CPI(M)
stopped at a traffic intersection did not explode6. Four other supporters9.
Margis were convicted of murdering the then Railway Minister,
L N Mishra in January 19757. Ananda Marga was banned In spite of such an unenviable record, Ananda Marga has
during the Emergency period under Indira Gandhi, a ban that survived and continues to work for its social causes. It is present
was lifted by the Janata Dal government that came to power in over 180 countries, with about 20 lakh members in India
after the emergency. In April 1982, 17 Margis were set ablaze and abroad. It has 7,000 units in India, 3,000 of which are in
West Bengal. It runs schools and colleges, homes for destitute
3 Ibid children, and hospitals10. There is an Ananda Marga Primary
4 Ibid. School in Jamalpur too. Several foreign members of the sect visit
5 “Ananda Marga.” en.wikipedia.org, accessed 25 Oct 2016. Jamalpur to pay their homage to the place of origin of the sect.
6 Ibid.
7 “Explained:Ananda Marga, a controversial road.” Sabyasachi 8 Ibid.
Bandopadhyay. IndianExpress.com, 11 Dec 2014. Accessed 25 Oct 9 “Purulia arms drop case” en-wikipedia. Accessed 26 Oct 2016.
2016. 10 “Explained:Ananda Marga, a controversial road.” Sabyasachi
Bandopadhyay. IndianExpress.com, 11 Dec 2014. Accessed 25 Oct
2016.

58  JAMALPUR: The Town the British Built

Meditation on Tiger’s grave in Jamalpur that Baba used to Ananda Marga Primary School in Jamalpur
regularly do. Courtesy: Premasagar, Flickr

Courtesy: http://overlandsinindia2009.blogspot.com

GALLERY



VICEROY LORD BRUCE’S VISIT, 1897

The Elgin Collection – earliest photographs of Jamalpur The photographs showing the exteriors and interiors of
various workshops, as well as some of the buildings in town,
His Excellency the Earl of Elgin and Kincardine, Lord Victor are the earliest photographs we have of Jamalpur. Some of the
Alexander Bruce, then the Viceroy of India (1894-99), visited buildings shown in these photos were razed to the ground, or
Jamalpur Workshops on 3 December 1897, accompanied by extensively damaged, during the catastrophic Bihar earthquake
Lady Constance Mary. The ‘Elgin Collection’ – a set of 33 of 1934, and were rebuilt later. In 1897, the Jamalpur works
prints – was presented to him as a memento of his visit. These were spread over 67 acres and employed 5,500 persons.
photographs were taken by Basil J Elias and others. These are
now with the British Library, UK. The cover image of this book and a few photographs in other
chapters are from this collection. These are reproduced here
with permission of the British Library Board, UK.

JAMALPUR LOCOMOTIVE WORKSHOP IN 1897

A COMPOSITE IMAGE OF 5 PHOTOS CAPTURES THE WORKSHOP FROM ONE END TO THE OTHER
Copyright the British Library Board (Photo 15/8, 1. C13555 – 66 to 70)

62  JAMALPUR: The Town the British Built
Arrival of the Viceroy at the Workshop on 3 Dec 1897. © British Library Board (Ph.15/8,25)

Gallery  63 

New Iron Foundry. © British Library Board (Ph.15/8,2) Turning Shop 2nd Bay. © British Library Board (Ph.15/8,6)

Types of Engines – 1897 & 1854 Mechanics Institute
© British Library Board (Ph.15/8,12) © British Library Board (Ph.15/8,18)

64  JAMALPUR: The Town the British Built
Native workmen leaving after work. © British Library Board (Ph.15/8,24)

Gallery  65 

Locomotive Superintendent’s residence Principal Dist. Loco. Supdt’s residence Std. Paddle Wheel Ferry Steamer, Lakshmi

© British Library Board (Ph.15/8,21) © British Library Board (Ph.15/8,22) on Ganges. © British Library Board (Ph.15/8,20)

St. Mary’s Church. © British Library Board (Ph.15/8, 16) Govt. Aided Native School. © British Library Board (Ph.15/8,20)

Jamalpur Today – Google Earth Images

The Town

General overview of Jamalpur with Kali Pahad to the left and Rampur Colony to the right. The Workshop, the North Tank and East Colony can
be seen in the middle of this image. Image credit – Google Earth. Downloaded on Sep 11, 2018.

Gallery  67 

Jamalpur Locomotive Workshop

A close-up view of the large area over which the Jamalpur Locomotive Workshop is spread. To the left is the East Colony with its well laid out
roads with trees. To the right is the market area on the western side of the town. Image credit – Google Earth. Downloaded on Sep 11, 2018.

68  JAMALPUR: The Town the British Built

East Colony, JSA, Maidan with the Golf Course and Reservoir

The image clearly shows the well laid out avenues of East Colony. The colony is throughout covered with trees. JSA ground, Maidan above
it and the Golf course can be seen. Top right is the Happy Valley abutting the Reservoir of Water Works Image credit – Google Earth.
Downloaded on Sep 11, 2018.

Gallery  69 

Rampur Colony Railway Quarters

Image displays staff quarters at Rampur Colony. One can see the abundance of trees here too. While the roads of East Colony run parallel
and intersect at 90 degrees, arterial roads of Rampur Colony are radial and move outwards from the centre. Image credit – Google Earth.

Downloaded on Sep 11, 2018.

70  JAMALPUR: The Town the British Built

The Jamalpur Railway Tunnel

Satellite view of the railway track passing through the tunnel in Kharagpur hills. The tunnel is called the Sholay Tunnel after the shooting of
movie ‘Sholay’ here. Image credit – Google Earth. Downloaded on Sep 11, 2018.

Devastating Bihar Earthquake of 1934

Gandhi ji in Munger after the quake Pandit Nehru with a spade clearing the debris in Munger
Photo source – FB, Bihar through the Ages Ph. source – From the collection of Laliteshwar Prasad Shahi

Munger Fort entrance with clock tower, before and after the quake Bodies excavated in Munger
Photo source – FB, Bihar through the Ages Ph. Source – FB, Bihar through the Ages

72  JAMALPUR: The Town the British Built

Railway Quarter on Queen’s Road General scene of devastated Jamalpur
Photo source – Helen Leggatt Ph. Source – FB, Bihar through the Ages

St. Joseph’s Church Jamalpur Railway Station A large building
Ph. Source – FB, Bihar through the Ages Ph. Source – FB, Bihar through the Ages Photo credit – Peter Moss

Gallery  73 

Another large building razed to ground. Ph. credit – Peter Moss Locomotive Superintendent’s residence. Ph. credit – Peter Moss

Extensive damage to Jamalpur Market area Refugees in Jamalpur outside their shattered homes
Photo source – FB, Bihar Through the Ages Photo source – munger.nic.in

Duncan McEvoy’s Photos – Christmas 1992

Duncan McEvoy, a passionate photographer of railways, lives in York, England. He visited
Jamalpur during Christmas of 1992. These images capture the essential mood of steam
locomotive era.

Early morning WG 9626 departure from Jamalpur 25 Dec 1992; Photo by Duncan McEvoy.

Gallery  75 
Class WG on Jamalpur shed 23 Dec 1992; Photo by Duncan McEvoy.

76  JAMALPUR: The Town the British Built
WG 9626 makes an after sunset departure from Jamalpur. 23 Dec 1992; Photo by Duncan McEvoy.

Gallery  77 

WP7026 Jamalpur 24 Dec 1992; Photo by Duncan McEvoy.

The Red-brick Buildings of East Colony

Parsonage. Ph. Credit: Maureen Young Staff Quarter on Queen’s Road
Ph. Credit: Yvonne Hussein Le Fort

Staff Quarter on Victoria Road. Ph. Credit: Maureen Young Central Institute. Ph. Courtesy: Sudipto Ghosh, Flickr

Gallery  79 

Most impressive of them all, the Jamalpur Gymkhana and its corridor. Photos by GSP Rao

Inner quadrangle of Gymkhana. Ph. by GSP Rao Apprentice Hostel. Courtesy: ‘On Tracks of Empire-
Unite and Divide Part II’, YouTube, Suman Kurian

Sights of the Town

The Municipal Office. Photo by G Ramakrishna Rao Jamalpur Sports stadium. Ph. by Dhanesh K Mishra

The Railway Station. Ph. Source: thejamalpur.com The Golf Course. Photo by GSP Rao

Gallery  81 

The Railway Hospital. Ph. Source: thejamalpur.com The temples atop the hill. Photo by Rajya Bardhan

St. Mary’s Church (Rear view). Photo by G Ramakrishna Rao The Post Office. Photo by G Ramakrishna Rao

82  JAMALPUR: The Town the British Built

Badi Pul from a train. Photo by G Ramakrishna Rao Railway Tunnel. Courtesy: “150 Yrs of Jamalpur Workshop”
YouTube

Railway Officers Club. Photo by GSP Rao Yantrik Nivas. Ph. source: thejamalpur.com

The Townsfolk

Photos by G Ramakrishna Rao – Dec 2015

G Ramakrishna Rao was born in Jamalpur and had his early education there. An accomplished
artist and photographer, he now lives in Hyderabad. During a visit to Jamalpur in Dec 2015, he took
photographs of people from various walks of life in Jamalpur. These pictures capture the people and life

in the Railway township.

Chief Wotrks Manager P S to the C W M Railway Staff Member and Police Office Mr Lalit Sharma
Mr A K Sinh at Golf Course Mr Praveen Kumar Football Coach, Mr Ajay Kumar

84  JAMALPUR: The Town the British Built

An elder Muslim Rickshaw Wallah Young women in a procession An Elderly Lady

Traditional elders Shop Keeper School Girls School Administrator

Gallery  85 

Senior Citizen, Mr Bateshwar School H M, Mr D S Sriwastwa School Teachers Street Bazar in Monghyr

Temple visit on Kali Pahad Meditation at Happy Valley Devout at St. Joseph’s Church
Credit- ‘On Tracks of Empire,’ YouTube, Suman Kurian

The Educational Institutions

Notre Dame Academy School. Kendriya Vidyalaya. Courtesy- School website
Credit – Sharmistha Mukherjee, JamalpurMonghyr.com

Eastern Railway High School. Ph by Dhanesh K Mishra E R Intermediate College. Ph by Dhanesh K Mishra

From the album of Peter Moss

Trevor (R) & Cummings Peter, Uncle Len and Paul Peter, Paul Ayah and her son Peter, Paul and Zena

Wedding of Trevor Watson with Ursula Esther May at St Joseph’s Church, 17 Jan 1939 The Wedding Invitation

From Maureen Young’s Album

Father, Henry Smith Mom, Eileen, Yvonne at left, next Maureen and With parents Thelma, Sheila Isaaks,
grandfather, Alfred family with a guest 1947
Wright, brother Noel

Maureen, 16, at 6, Victoria Road, Jamalpur

From Yvonne Le Fort’s Album

Mother, Beryl Olive Roberts Yvonne at 2 Playing with younger sister Marina With Marina
holding Yvonne (1933)

Father, Robert Duncan Collett (1933) Yvonne, top left, with parents and siblings

From the Album of G S P Rao

Father, GNR Rau and Mother, Hamsa at 2 Gloucester Road Father at home (early 1950s)

Mother (early 1950s) Visit to Sitakund, Monghyr with family and friends Sister, Nirmala (at right) with friends
in Rampur Colony Quarters, 1950s


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