Making Earrings_Copper Wire

MAKING
EARRINGSC O P P E R W I R E

More Than150 Wire-Wrapped Designs

Lora S. Irish

Contents

PART 1: BUILDING BLOCKS Chapter 3: Making Earring Hooks. . . . . . . . . 45
Gallery of Handmade Hooks. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 47
Chapter 1: Materials and Tools. . . . . . . . . . . . 6 Creating Basic Earring Hooks. . . . . . . . . . . . . 51
Wire. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7 Attaching the Earring Hooks. . . . . . . . . . . . . 53
Tools . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10 All-in-One Earring Designs. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 54
Beads . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 19

Chapter 2: Wireworking Basics . . . . . . . . . . . 20
Anatomy of an Earring . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20
How to Create the 14 Basic Bends. . . . . . . . 22
Combining Basic Bends to Make
Wirework Links. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 31
Wire-Wrapping Basics . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 35
Bead Links and Dangles. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 40
Endless Variations on One
Wirework Link. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 44

PART 2: PROJECTS Closed Loops . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 105
D-Rings. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 109
Chapter 4: Step-by-Step Projects. . . . . . . . . . 55 Curves. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 112
Simple Swirl . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 56 U-Bends. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 122
Dangling Rubies. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 61 Multiple U-Bends. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 130
Turquoise Dream. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 66 Spirals. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 138
Lavender Lace. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 69 Hearts. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 147
Chunky Chains. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 73 Teardrops. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 153

Chapter 5: Quick-Start Projects. . . . . . . . . . . 76 About the Author. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 159
Dangles. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 77 Index. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 160
Chains. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 82
Coils . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 88
Hoops. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 93

Building Blocks 23 Miscellaneous items like alligator clips,
non-skid kitchen mats, scrap chipboard,
permanent markers, measuring tapes, small
metric rulers, and painter’s tape are often
found in a jeweler’s toolkit. For example, the
custom clamp shown here is created using
two pieces of scrap cereal box and an alligator
clip. The alligator clip holds the wire link
secure as the scrap cardboard prevents the clip
from scratching the link. As another example,
painter’s tape is a low-tack tape that can be
used to secure several bending wires together
before beginning the wire-wrapping process.
Use your imagination and whatever you
have on hand to make your life easier while
creating earrings.

Cardboard Bobbin

To work an extra-long wrapping or to
add a series of small beads to a wire,
try creating a cardboard bobbin. Coil
the extra-long length of wrapping wire
around a square of scrap cardboard with
a notch in it, then add all the beads that
you will be using. The bobbin controls
the wrapping wire while making it easy
to slide each bead into place. If you use
this technique, you should not wrap the
bobbin tightly, as it will kink and work-
harden the wire. Small kinks like these
are hard to fix and will show in the final
wire wrapping.

18  |  Making Copper Wire Earrings

BEADS Building Blocks

Beads add bright spots of color to wire-wrapped links. There is a shape, color, and texture in beads
for every jewelry style, and they are available in a wide variety of media, such as glass, acrylic,
resin, gemstone, coral, shell, porcelain, clay, and metal. Beads not only add color to your earring
design, but they can also become the base for a wire-wrapping pattern.

Beads are sized in millimeters. The hole in the bead always needs to accommodate the gauge
of the wire, but some general sizes tend to work well together visually. Small beads that work well
with 20-gauge through 26-gauge wrapping wire are 2mm to 6mm. Larger beads, often used as the
focal points of a jewelry design, may range from 8mm up to 20mm and work well with 16-gauge
through 20-gauge wire.

Throughout the projects in this book, bead sizes, colors,
and shapes are provided, but you can use any beads you
prefer when making your own version of a project. Just
hold your bead options against your link wire to see
if you like the effect.

Materials and Tools  |  19

HOW TO CREATE THE 14 BASIC BENDS

All wirework links that you create as the basis of a set of earrings are made by combining fourteen
basic bends in different quantities and ways. How these shapes are arranged relative to one
another determines the type of finished link you create. For example, if you were to simply
describe the wirework link of the earrings on page 21, you might say it is C-shaped with a loop at
one end. To break it down specifically into its components, or the bends used to create it, it was
made by combining one basic bend (the simple side loop) and a curve shaped around a rolling
form object. In this section, you’ll learn all fourteen basic bends, which will allow you to choose
to combine them in any way you can imagine to create unique and interesting wirework links for
your earrings. To create any link, you will need wire, nylon-jaw pliers, chain-nose pliers, round-
nose pliers, bent-nose pliers, and flush cutters.

THE 14 BASIC BENDS QUICK REFERENCE

1.  Simple side loop

2.  Simple straight loop

3.  Wrapped side loop

4.  Wrapped straight loop

Building Blocks 5.  Right-angle bend

6.  Open U-bend

7.  Tight U-bend 1 2 34
8.  Turn-back loop 7 8

9.  Mid-wire U-bend circle 6

10.  Mid-wire small circle

11.  Mid-wire large circle

12.  Spiral

13.  Mid-wire spiral

14.  Turn-back spiral 5

9 10 11 12 13 14
22  |  Making Copper Wire Earrings

SIMPLE SIDE LOOP Building Blocks
The simple side loop, frequently shortened to “simple loop” in this book, is
often the connecting ring at the beginning or end of a wire link.
1. Grip the end of your wire in your round-nose pliers.
2. Roll the wire around the pliers’ arm.
3. Continue rolling until you have a complete circle, with the end of the wire
touching the working wire.

123

SIMPLE STRAIGHT LOOP
The simple straight loop centers a bead or link shape on the working wire
rather than offsetting it like a simple side loop does.
1. Create a right-angle bend using your straight-nose pliers (more detail on
this bend on page 25).
2. Grip the bend in your round-nose pliers with the angle tight against the
pliers’ side. Roll the end of the wire around the pliers’ arm to create a loop
centered to the working wire.
3. Clip the excess wire where the circle meets the working wire.

123

Wireworking Basics  |  23

Building Blocks WRAPPED SIDE LOOP
The wrapped side loop provides added strength.
1. Grip the wire in your round-nose pliers and create a simple side loop. Stop
the circular bend when the working end of the wire has crossed the gripped
wire at a 90-degree angle.
2. Grip the simple side loop in your bent-nose pliers and roll the end wire
around the long wire, completing two to three turns.
3. Clip the excess wrapping wire as close as possible to the wrap.

123

WRAPPED STRAIGHT LOOP
The wrapped straight loop locks beads or a link in place.
1. Create a simple straight loop and grip it in your bent-nose pliers.
2. Roll the end wire around the long wire two to three times, creating the
wrap. Using your flush cutter, clip the excess end wire as close as possible to
the wrap.

12

24  |  Making Copper Wire Earrings

RIGHT-ANGLE BEND Building Blocks
The right-angle bend creates a crisp, sharp turn in the wire.
1. Grip the wire in your straight-nose pliers at the point where you want the
right-angle bend.
2. Fold the wire over the pliers, using your thumb to create the pressure.

12

OPEN U-BEND
An open U-bend allows you to change the direction of the wire element.
1. Grip the wire in your round-nose pliers at the point where you want to
create the U-bend.
2. Gently bend each side of the wire over the pliers’ arm until you achieve your
desired angle.

12

Wireworking Basics  |  25

Earring Hook Size Comparison

Manufactured earring hooks are typically smaller than handmade hooks. You can compare
here the size of a set of standard 18mm x 16mm manufactured hooks to a set of handmade
hooks that measure 35mm x 25mm. You can make handmade hooks that are as small as
standard manufactured hooks, but you can also make hooks that are much bigger. The
measuring tapes are shown for scale. For each set of earrings you make, you will have to
decide what kind of hooks you want to use.

18mm 35mm
16mm

25mm

Building Blocks Manufactured Handmade
hooks hooks

46  |  Making Copper Wire Earrings

GALLERY OF HANDMADE HOOKS Building Blocks

SIMPLE LOOP HOOKS

These hook
samples all use
a simple loop to
connect to the
wirework earring.
The actual shape
of the hook itself
is either a French
hook (the larger,
rounder hooks)
or a fishhook (the
smaller, tighter
hooks). If you are
purchasing hooks
at the store, these
are the terms you
should look for.

Shaping the Hook End Curve The backward end
curve of this set
The half-circle of earring hooks
bend of this pair was worked about
of earrings was 1" (2.5cm) from the
worked over a large top of the half-circle
marker used as a bend, making it
rolling form.The quite subtle.
backward curve area
of the hook adds Making Earring Hooks  |  47
emphasis to the
extra-large width.

Pro j e c t s | S i mp l e Sw i r l 5 Roll the working end of the wire around 6 Remove the wire from the form. The
this form to create a second full circle. center intersection point of each circle
Bring the long working end of the wire parallel should still align. Essentially, the circles
with the opposite side of the wire. grow in size in one direction, away from the
intersection point.

7 Clip the excess wire at the beginning of the 8 Using your round-nose pliers, roll the
first (smallest) circle. This wirework link inside end of the wire into a simple side
now has two perfectly round hoops! But it’s loop. Then add the beads to the working end
not complete just yet. of the wire one at a time, with the largest bead
in the middle.

58  |  Making Copper Wire Earrings

9 Move all the beads to the bottom of the 10 Complete the link by gently pulling
large outer hoop. the long working end wire into a wide,
half-turn hoop arm. Center the end of this arm
under the simple side loop. Clip and sand. If Pro j e c t s | S i mp l e Sw i r l
you want, you can lightly hammer your link
on an anvil to both flatten the wire and add
texture. The basic link shape is complete!

11 Hold the link in your hands so that the 12 Grip the link in your straight-nose
simple side loop falls at the nine o’clock pliers up against the eight coils. Bring
position. Using 24-gauge wire, start wire the wrapping wire over the pliers’ tip and wrap
wrapping at the one o’clock position, just to the a second set of eight tightly packed coils on
right of the simple side loop’s center. Create the opposite side of the pliers, again capturing
eight tightly packed coils worked over both top and securing both top arms.
arms of the link, securing them together.

Step-by-Step Projects  |  59

OTHER FUN IDEAS

Projects | Coils Try twisted coils! This 24-gauge coil covers You can add a coil to a wirework link by wire
a 20-gauge working wire—both gauges are wrapping it directly onto the earring. Make
thin and easy to twist into knots. Begin with the 18-gauge link starting with a simple side
a simple side loop in your 20-gauge wire. loop, followed by a half-circle, a tight U-bend,
Cover the wire with a 24-gauge tightly packed and a finishing simple side loop. Hammer.
coil. Gently turn the piece into a simple knot. Next, create an 18-gauge coil and pull it open
Lock the beginning end of the link to the to suit the size of your link. Use 26-gauge
knot side using the simple side loop. Lock the wire to attach it to the outside of the link,
second end of the knot to itself by wrapping adding a smoked black 3mm glass bead to the
the uncovered 20-gauge wire over the top of wrapping wire each time you roll through the
the knot. Add an antique copper 3mm bead coil openings. To finish, make simple earring
cap followed by a gray and pink 6mm agate hooks using 20-gauge wire.
bead. Finish the link by locking it to a 4mm
jump ring that holds your earring hook with a
wrapped straight loop.

92  |  Making Copper Wire Earrings

Hoops Projects | Hoops

Hoops are one of the most classic and popular earring shapes out there.
There are plenty of ways you can jazz up yours.

Make a Basic Hoop Wirework Link

This simple, large hoop link is made with 18-gauge wire using
round‑nose pliers and is formed by bending the wire around the
barrel of a large marker.
1.  Cut a 5" (12.5cm) length of wire. Create a simple side loop.
2.  Wrap the wire around a 1" (2.5cm)-diameter rolling form for one-and-a-half turns.
3.  Remove the wire from the form and flatten the entire loop with your fingers.
4.  Cut the end wire to 11/4" (3.2cm). Make another simple side loop. Trim the excess wire.
5.  Flatten the entire link with nylon-jaw pliers.
6.  The finished link has two simple side loop ends with a one-and-a-half-turn circle hoop.

123

456

Quick-Start Projects  |  93

P r o j ect s | Sp i ra l s Spirals

Spirals, whether tight or open, allow the link shape itself to really stand out and also provide
ample opportunities for added elements, beads, and intricate wrapping patterns. It may take a
little practice to get the spirals to cooperate and stay nice and even, but once you get the hang of it,
you’ll be whipping up clean and pretty spiral earrings in no time.

Make a Basic Spiral Wirework Link

This spiral hairpin link can add a wonderful area of dense, compacted wire
to your design.

1.  Cut a 9" (23cm) length of 18-gauge wire. Grip the end of the wire in your round-nose pliers and
roll the end into a simple side loop. Transfer the simple side loop to your bent-nose pliers and
continue rolling the simple side loop into a spiral. Do not bring the spiral wire tight enough to
touch the simple side loop—allow some air space.

2.  Continue rolling the open spiral until you have completed two-and-a-half turns.
3.  With your round-nose pliers, grip the working wire 1/2" (1.3cm) from the spiral end and bend

the working wire into a tight U-bend.
4.  Move your round-nose pliers 1/2" (1.3cm) from the U-bend and roll the working wire into a mid-

wire circle. Trim the excess wire from the mid-wire circle to turn it into a simple side loop.
5.  Hold the spiral and simple side loop in your fingers and compress the link to bring the sides of

the U-bend together.
6.  An earring hook can easily be attached to the simple side loop, and the open spiral leaves

space for added beads and wire wrapping.

12 3
6
45
138  |  Making Copper Wire Earrings

OPEN SPIRALS

Open spirals are defined by the air space between the arms of the spiral. Open spiral earrings are
some of my favorite designs, as they provide plenty of space for wire wrapping and bead dangles.

SUPER SIMPLE DESIGNS

A spiral can stand alone as the focus of a This design is only slightly more complicated P r o j ect s | Sp i ra l s
design. To make this set, use 20-gauge wire to than the design shown at left. Make the link for
work the open spiral link. Start with a simple this set with 18-gauge wire. For this particular
side loop, create two-and-a-half turns, and set, roll the turns free-form and allow some
finish with another simple side loop. As the slight variation between each earring. Begin
main link wire is of a thinner gauge than with a three-and-a-half-turn spiral outward.
normal, hammer it to add strength. Then use Work the outermost turn (the largest hoop)
24-gauge wire to wrap some tightly packed around a 11/2" (4cm) rolling form. Finish with a
coils near the final simple side loop to secure wrapped side loop that, at the end of the wrap,
the outer arm to the next arm in. grabs the outermost spiral arm in two coils.
Add a handmade 24-gauge earring hook using
a 6mm jump ring. Then add some simple
26-gauge wire wrapping as shown, wrapping
about six tightly packed coils over the outer
arm, grabbing the next arm in for three coils,
and working six more coils on the outer
arm only.

Quick-Start Projects  |  139

Projects | Teardrops Several cluster wraps add anchoring points, Don’t forget that you can turn a teardrop
both visually and functionally, for the blue point-up, too. Make this link using 18-gauge
beads in this set. Create the 18-gauge link wire, starting with a one-and-a-half-turn spiral.
as shown, starting in the center with the Roll the outer curve around a 11/8" (3cm)
open spiral and referring to previous project rolling form, create a turn-back loop, and roll
instructions in this section if needed for the other outer curve around the rolling form
guidance on shaping the different aspects. again to come below the spiral. Then, with
Next, make a 26-gauge wrapped straight loop 26-gauge wire, wrap seven tightly packed coils
bead dangle with a pale blue 8mm frosted on the inner arm at the base of the spiral. Add
round bead, being extra generous with the a white 6mm glass round bead to the wire and
wrapping above the bead. Add this to the inner place the bead between the two lower arms.
simple side loop of the spiral. Then begin the End with seven tightly packed coils on the
wire wrapping, worked in 26-gauge wire, as lower arm.
a tight, random cluster of coils worked at the
base of the top simple side loop. Add a blue
12mm foil-lined lampwork square bead to the
wrapping wire. Lay the bead over the front of
the link to cover the tight U-bend arms and
the top of the spiral arm. Secure the bead with
a cluster of random coils worked on the outer
arm of the teardrop.

158  |  Making Copper Wire Earrings

About the Author

Lora S. Irish is an award-winning artist and the author
of more than 30 woodcarving, pyrography, and craft
pattern books, including the best-selling Pyrography
Basics, Great Book of Woodburning, North American
Wildlife Patterns for the Scroll Saw, Great Book
of Celtic Patterns, The Art & Craft of Pyrography,
Great Book of Fairy Patterns, and many more.
Winner of the Woodcarver of the Year award,
Lora is a frequent contributor to Woodcarving
Illustrated and Scroll Saw Woodworking &
Crafts magazines. Working from her rural
mid-Maryland home studio, she enjoys
exploring several different types of crafts
and hobbies, including jewelry making,
basket weaving, quilting, gourd carving and
pyrography, and leather crafts.

You can find Lora’s arts and crafts teachings
on her website, www.lsirish.com, where she offers
hundreds of free online tutorials and projects. Her
second website, www.artdesignsstudio.com, features
more than 2,500 of her exclusive line art designs, from
Celtic knots and wildlife to dragons, mythological beasts,
sea life, and more.

PHOTO CREDITS
All photos by the author unless otherwise noted. Beads photo on pages 5 and 19 (top) by
Shutterstock.com/​matabum. Ball peen hammer photo on page 14 by Shutterstock.com/
dcwcreations. Jump rings photo on page 30 by Shutterstock.com/PhotobyE. Tape measures
photo on page 46 by Daniela Pelazza.

About the Author  |  159

Endless Handmade Earrings!

Transform simple copper wire into stunning works of wearable art!
Making Copper Wire Earrings will show you expert techniques to
create over 150 DIY earrings in various styles—from hoops, dangles, and
coils to spirals, hearts, teardrops, and so many more. After introductory
sections on materials, tools, basic bends, wire wrapping, and making
earring hooks, you will move on to five complete step-by-step projects
with coordinating photography. The final section features over 150
additional designs with detailed guidance for you to recreate each
set on your own! With best-selling author and award-winning artist
Lora S. Irish as your guide, you’ll learn dazzling jewelry-making tips
and tricks and have tons of fun as you enjoy this affordable, easy,
and stylish hobby!

✢ A complete guide to learning
how to make an array of one-
of-a-kind copper wire earrings

✢ Includes insightful chapters
on materials, tools, and
basic techniques

✢ Contains 5 complete step-by-
step, photo-illustrated projects

✢ Offers more than 150 earring
designs to recreate, wear, or
give as gifts

✢ Written by internationally
known artist and craftswoman,
Lora S. Irish

“T his is a fantastic resource for creating with wire. I highly recommend $19.99 US | $24.99 CAN
Making Copper Wire Earrings for anyone who wants to expand their
jewelry-making repertoire!” EAN ISBN: 978-1-4971-0015-2 51999

—K ARLA ROSENBUSCH, MANAGING EDITOR OF 9 781497 100152
LAPIDARY JOURNAL JEWELRY ARTIST MAGAZINE

“L ora Irish brings copper to life in Making Copper Wire Earrings.
Whether you’re just starting your jewelry-making journey or if you’re
a seasoned pro, there is so much to learn here. You will be crafting
earrings for every outfit and for those of your friends—and you won’t
want to stop! The instructive photos are so well done and the directions
so easy to follow—this book is a joy to read and is your go-to source for
fashionable, affordable, do-it-yourself earring designs.”

—T AMARA HONAMAN, DIRECTOR OF CONTENT, INTERWEAVE;
FORMER EDITOR, BEADWORK MAGAZINE