Alps in November 1944, while he was on his way to take
command of Allied Air Operations in the Pacific. It was thought he
might have been piloting the aircraft at the time.
Trafford died at the age of fifty-two.
Arthur C. Benson
M allory’s tutor became M aster of M agdalene College, Cambridge,
in 1915, and remained in that position until 1925. He wrote a
moving tribute for M allory’s memorial service at Cambridge, but
was too ill to deliver it. He is best remembered for having written
the words of “Land of Hope and Glory.”
Benson died in 1925, aged sixty-three.
THE CLIMBERS
Brigadier General C. G. Bruce CB MVO
Although severely wounded at Gallipoli, Bruce commanded his
regiment on the North-West Frontier until 1920. He was President
of the Alpine Club from 1923 to 1925, and appointed Hon.
Colonel of the 5th Gurkha Rifles in 1931.
Bruce died in 1939, aged seventy-three.
Geoffrey Young D. Litt FRS L
Appointed as a consultant to the Rockefeller Foundation in 1925.
Reader in Education at London University in 1932. President of
the Alpine Club from 1940 to 1943. Young climbed the
M atterhorn (14,692 feet) in 1928 aged fifty-two, and Zinal
Rothorn (11,204 feet) in 1935 aged fifty-nine, despite being
burdened with an artificial leg.
Young died in 1958, aged eighty-two.
George Finch FRS MBE
Appointed a Fellow of the Royal Society in 1938. President of the
Alpine Club from 1959 to 1961. In 1931 three of Finch’s friends
fell to their deaths in the Alps, and he never climbed again.
Finch died in 1970, aged eighty-two.
His son, Peter Finch, became an actor. Peter died before he
found out that he’d won the 1976 Academy Award for Best Actor
in the film Network.
Lt. General S ir Edward Norton KBE DS O MC
Continued his career as a professional soldier, and after being ADC
to King George VI was appointed M ilitary Governor of Hong
Kong. In 1926, awarded the Founder’s M edal of the Royal
Geographical Society.
Held the world altitude record, 28,125 feet, until 1953, when
Sir Edmund Hillary and Sherpa Tensing conquered Everest.
Norton died in 1954, aged seventy.
T. Howard S omervell OBE MA MB B.Ch FRCS
Spent the rest of his professional life as a surgeon in a mission
hospital in Travancore, southern India, where he became one of the
world’s leading authorities on duodenal ulcers. In 1956 he retired
and returned to England. President of the Alpine Club from 1962
to 1965.
Somervell died in 1975, after a bracing walk in the Lake
District, aged eighty-five.
Professor Noel Odell
The Everest Committee turned down Odell’s request to be a
member of the 1936 expedition to Everest on account of his age,
fifty-one. That same year, he scaled Nanda Devi at 25,645 feet, the
highest mountain to have been climbed at that time. No member of
the 1936 Everest expedition managed to reach 24,000 feet.
Odell spent the rest of his professional life as a geologist,
holding professorships at Harvard and M cGill. He retired to
Cambridge where he was made an Honorary Fellow of Clare
College.
Odell died in 1981, aged ninety-six.
Lt. Colonel Henry Morshead DS O
The tops of three fingers of M orshead’s right hand were
amputated after returning from the Everest expedition of 1924. He
returned to India in 1926 as a surveyor. He was shot dead while
out riding one evening in 1931, in Burma, by his sister’s Pakistani
lover.
M orshead was forty-nine when he was murdered.
Captain John Noel
Continued his career as a professional photographer and film-
maker. His film The Epic of Everest was seen by over a million
people in Britain and America. His life’s work is preserved in the
National Film Archive.
Noel died in 1987, aged ninety-nine.
THE ROYAL GEOGRAPHICAL S OCIETY
S ir Francis Younghusband KCS I KCIE
Continued to serve on the Everest Committee as its chairman until
1934. In 1925 he wrote a best-selling book entitled The Epic of
Mount Everest. All the proceeds were donated to the RGS. In 1936
he founded the World Congress of Faiths.
Younghusband died in 1942, aged seventy-nine.
Arthur Hinks FRS CBE
In 1912, Hinks was awarded the Gold M edal of the Royal
Astronomical Society. In 1913, he was elected a Fellow of the
Royal Society. In 1920, he was awarded the CBE for services to
mountaineering. In 1938, he was awarded the Victoria M edal of the
Royal Geographical Society, and remained Secretary to the Everest
Committee until 1939.
Hinks died in 1945, aged seventy-two.
MALLORY’S FRIENDS
Guy Bullock
In 1938 Bullock was appointed Britain’s resident minister in
Ecuador. In 1944 he was appointed as Consul General to
Brazzaville.
Bullock died in 1958, aged eighty-two.
Mary Ann “Cottie” S anders
After her father was declared bankrupt, Cottie worked as a shop
assistant in Woolworth’s. She later became a best-selling novelist,
writing under the pseudonym Ann Bridge. Several of her fictional
heroes were thinly disguised versions of George M allory. She
married a diplomat, Sir Owen O’M alley, and remained a close
friend of the M allory family.
Cottie died in 1974, aged eighty-six.
THE RES T OF THE MALLORY FAMILY
The Reverend Herbert Leigh Mallory MA
In 1931 George’s father became a canon of Chester Cathedral. He
died in 1943, aged eighty-seven.
Annie Mallory
Annie outlived her husband, both her sons, and both of her
daughters-in-law. She died in 1946, aged eighty-three.
Mallory’s S isters
Mary, M rs. Ralph Brook, died in 1983, aged ninety-eight.
Avie, M rs. Harry Longridge, died in 1989, aged one-hundred-and-
two.
Mallory’s Children
Clare
Gained a first-class honors degree at Cambridge University. She
married an American scientist, Glenn M illikan. They lived in
California and had three sons. Clare’s husband died in a climbing
accident in Tennessee in 1947 and, like her mother, she was left to
bring up three children.
Clare died in 2001, aged eighty-five.
Beridge
Became a doctor, and married David Robertson, a professor of
English at Columbia University and the author of George Mallory.
They had three sons. Berry, like her mother, contracted breast
cancer.
Beridge died in 1953, aged thirty-six.
John
Emigrated to South Africa, where he worked as a water engineer.
He is married, and has five children. One of those children is
George Leigh M allory II.
George Leigh Mallory II
M allory’s grandson is a senior water engineer working on water
supply projects in Victoria, Australia.
At 5:30 A.M. on M ay 14th, 1995, George Leigh M allory II
placed a laminated photograph of his grandparents, George and
Ruth, on the summit of Everest. In his own words, he was
“completing a little outstanding family business.”
THE END
Table of Contents
COVER
ALSO BY JEFFREY ARCHER
TITLE PAGE
COPYRIGHT
DEDICATION
ACKNOWLEDGM ENTS
EPIGRAPH
CONTENTS
PROLOGUE
BOOK ONE: No Ordinary Child
CHAPTER ONE
CHAPTER TWO
CHAPTER THREE
CHAPTER FOUR
CHAPTER FIVE
CHAPTER SIX
CHAPTER SEVEN
CHAPTER EIGHT
CHAPTER NINE
CHAPTER TEN
CHAPTER ELEVEN
CHAPTER TWELVE
CHAPTER THIRTEEN
CHAPTER FOURTEEN
CHAPTER FIFTEEN
CHAPTER SIXTEEN
BOOK TWO: The Other Woman
CHAPTER SEVENTEEN
CHAPTER EIGHTEEN
CHAPTER NINETEEN
CHAPTER TWENTY
CHAPTER TWENTY-ONE
CHAPTER TWENTY-TWO
CHAPTER TWENTY-THREE
CHAPTER TWENTY-FOUR
CHAPTER TWENTY-FIVE
BOOK THREE: No M an’s Land
CHAPTER TWENTY-SIX
CHAPTER TWENTY-SEVEN
BOOK FOUR: Selecting the Team
CHAPTER TWENTY-EIGHT
CHAPTER TWENTY-NINE
CHAPTER THIRTY
CHAPTER THIRTY-ONE
CHAPTER THIRTY-TWO
CHAPTER THIRTY-THREE
CHAPTER THIRTY-FOUR
CHAPTER THIRTY-FIVE
BOOK FIVE: Walking Off the M ap
CHAPTER THIRTY-SIX
CHAPTER THIRTY-SEVEN
CHAPTER THIRTY-EIGHT
CHAPTER THIRTY-NINE
CHAPTER FORTY
CHAPTER FORTY-ONE
CHAPTER FORTY-TWO
CHAPTER FORTY-THREE
CHAPTER FORTY-FOUR
BOOK SIX: Back to Earth
CHAPTER FORTY-FIVE
CHAPTER FORTY-SIX
CHAPTER FORTY-SEVEN
CHAPTER FORTY-EIGHT
CHAPTER FORTY-NINE
BOOK SEVEN: A Woman’s Privilege
CHAPTER FIFTY
CHAPTER FIFTY-ONE
CHAPTER FIFTY-TWO
CHAPTER FIFTY-THREE
BOOK EIGHT: Ascension Day
CHAPTER FIFTY-FOUR
CHAPTER FIFTY-FIVE
CHAPTER FIFTY-SIX
CHAPTER FIFTY-SEVEN
CHAPTER FIFTY-EIGHT
CHAPTER FIFTY-NINE
CHAPTER SIXTY
CHAPTER SIXTY-ONE
CHAPTER SIXTY-TWO
EPILOGUE