(DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - Chicago

SOUTH L OOP AND NEAR SOUTH SIDE  99


VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
At Home on the Practical Information
Great Lakes 1200 S Lake Shore Dr. Map 4 E4.
showcases native Tel (312) 939-2438. Open
fish of the Great Memorial Day–Labor Day:
Lakes basin, 9am–6pm daily (mid-Jun–Aug:
including Lake 9am–10pm Wed). Labor Day–
Sturgeon in a Memorial Day: 9am–5pm Mon–
touch pool.
Fri; 9am–6pm Sat, Sun, public
hols. Closed Dec 25. &
Oceans (see website for various free days).
As part of the Waters of the World galleries, 7 9 0 = h Lectures.
here you can see an array of animals from ∑ sheddaquarium.org
tide pools to the ocean floor. Particularly
fascinating is the giant Pacific octopus, Transport
q Roosevelt then free trolley.
one of the largest species in the world.
@ 146. £ Roosevelt then
free trolley.










Wild Reef
The blue-spot stingray is among
the 500 species of reef fish
on view in this underground
wing. Also housed here
is one of the most diverse
displays of sharks in
North America.








. Amazon Rising
Experience all four seasons
affecting the floodplain forest
of the mighty Amazon River,
and encounter stingrays, dart
frogs, caimans, and many more
creatures of the Amazon.
Main Entrance



. Caribbean Reef
More than 250 tropical animals,
Asia, Africa, and Australia including a sea turtle and
highlights fish such as the bonnethead sharks, live in this reef
aggressive Nile knifefish that habitat, one of the aquarium’s most
inhabit the warm freshwaters popular exhibits. Visitors can watch
of the eastern hemisphere. as a diver feeds the creatures.
For keys to symbols see back flap


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CHIC A GO AREA B Y AREA  101

SOUTH SIDE

Settled in the mid-1800s as suburban pollution from nearby industry and the
estates, the South Side was soon encroachment of poorer neighborhoods
transformed when the 1893 World’s Fair, caused the wealthy to depart. By the 1950s,
held in Jackson Park, brought tourists, Kenwood and Hyde Park were in decline.
money, and real-estate and transit That same decade, the University of Chicago
development. Hyde Park in particular led a massive urban-renewal program.
experienced dramatic change, as the City’s Today, the area contains many classic Prairie
preparation for the fair led to an influx of School homes, superb museums, and two
Chicago’s elite. By the 1920s, however, of Chicago’s largest greenspaces.

Sights at a Glance
Historic Buildings Restaurants pp152–3
1 Rockefeller Memorial Chapel 1 Cedars Mediterranean
2 Robie House 2 La Petite Folie
5 University of Chicago 3 Medici On 57th St.
Quadrangles 4 Rajun Cajun
5 Salonica
Historic Districts 6 Valois
9 Hyde Park 7 Zaleski & Horvarth MarketCafé
0 Kenwood See also Street Finder
Museums maps 7 & 8
3 Oriental Institute Museum
4 Smart Museum of Art
8 DuSable Museum of African
American History
w Museum of Science and Industry
pp108–111
Parks 0 meters 500
6 Midway Plaisance 0 yards 500
7 Washington Park
q Jackson Park
150 yards
EAST 48TH STREET AVENUE KENWOOD SOUTH
EAST 49TH STREET SOUTH DORCHESTER AVENUE SOUTH CORNELL DRIVE
S KIMBARK AVE
EAST 50TH STREET S BLACKSTONE AVE
E MADISON S CORNELL AVE
PARK AVE SOUTH LAKE PARK AVENUE
SOUTH ELLIS AVENUE
SOUTH WOODLAWN AVE
SOUTH GREENWOOD AVE
EAST 51ST STREET EAST HYDE PARK BOULEVARD
SOUTH DREXEL BOULEVARD
EAST 52ND STREET SOUTH LAKE SHORE DRIVE
E 52ND ST SOUTH ELLIS AVENUE S KENWO OD AVE
ELLSWORT H D R I V E P A YNE DRIVE E 53RD ST SOUTH DREXEL AVENUE SOUTH INGLESIDE AVENUE EAST 53RD STREET SOUTH DORCHESTER AVENUE SOUTH BLACKSTONE AVENUE SOUTH HARPER AVENUE 51st-53rd EAST 53RD ST
Street
WASHINGTON
PARK E 54TH ST SOUTH GREENWOOD AVENUE SOUTH UNIVERSITY AVENUE SOUTH CORNELL AVENUE SOUTH SHORE DRIV E
RAINEY DRIVE SOUTH COTTAGE GROVE AVENUE EAST 55TH STREET EAST 56TH STREET SOUTH WOODLAWN AVENUE SOUTH KIMBARK AVENUE SOUTH KENWOOD AVENUE E 55TH PL SOUTH LAKE PARK AVENUE EAST 56TH STREET
SOUTH HYDE PARK BOULEVARD
S EVERETT AVE
R U SSELL DRIVE EAST 58TH STREET EAST 58TH STREET SOUTH DORCHESTER AVENUE SOUTH BLACKSTONE AVENUE SOUTH HARPER AVE 57th Street EAST 57TH DRIVE
55th-56th-
MORGAN DRIVE
SOUTH ELLIS AVE
EAST 57TH STREET
S MARYLAND AVE
EAST 59TH STREET
PAYNE DRIVE 59th Street/ JACKSON
S STONY ISLAND AVE
MIDWAY PLAISANCE S CORNELL DR PARK
University
B E S T D R IVE
EAST 60TH STREET of Chicago
Lower cloister hall in the Chicago Theological Seminary, University of Chicago For keys to symbols see back flap
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102  CHIC A GO AREA B Y AREA

Street-by-Street: University of Chicago

The University of Chicago, founded in 1890 on Nuclear Energy, by
land donated by Marshall Field, opened its doors to sculptor Henry Moore,
marks the spot where,
students – male and female, white and black – in 1892. in 1942, a team of
Today, it has the greatest number of Nobel laureates scientists led by Enrico 5 6 T H S T R E E T
among faculty, alumni, and researchers of any US Fermi ushered in the
university and is particularly lauded in the fields of atomic age with the
first controlled
economics and physics. Over the years, John D. nuclear reaction.
Rockefeller gave $35 million to the university. Henry
Ives Cobb designed 18 of the university’s limestone
buildings before the Boston firm Shepley, Rutan
and Coolidge took over as the main architects in
1901. Today, the campus boasts the designs
of more than 70 architects. While large, it is 57 T H S T R E E T
easily explored on foot (for walking tours,
see pp184–5). U E
N
E
A V

S
I
L
L
E









E
U
Bond Chapel N
(1926) contains beautiful E
stained-glass windows by A V
Charles Connick and Y
elaborate wood carvings. I T
S
R
E
V
I
N
U
5 Main Quadrangle
5 9 T H S T R E E T
The university’s tranquil 6 Midway Plaisance N O R T H
central quadrangle is This is the site of
the largest of seven the 1893 World’s M I D W A Y
designed by Henry Columbian Exposition
Ives Cobb. amusement park. P L A I S A N C E
Cobb Gate
was donated to the
university by
Henry Ives Cobb,
the campus’
master planner. It is
0 meters 100
ornately decorated
0 yards 100 with gargoyles.

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SOUTH SIDE  103

4 . Smart
Museum of Art
This light-filled,
intimate museum
offers a rich,
balanced survey SOUTH SIDE
of Western art.

5 6 T H S T R E E T
Locator Map
See Street Finder maps 7 & 8






Key
Suggested route

Regenstein Library
The university’s main library is striking
for its Brutalist architecture, which lies
in stark contrast to the nearby, domed
Mansueto Library.



3 . Oriental
Institute Museum
Three millennia of ancient
Near East civilization are
showcased at this
fascinating museum.



E 5 8 T H
U
N
E
A V S T R E E T 1 Rockefeller Memorial Chapel
Elaborate carvings and intricate
stained-glass windows grace the
E interior of this limestone-and-
U
N brick chapel.
E
A V
N
A W
L
D
O
O
W




2 . Robie House
This Frank Lloyd Wright-designed home (1908–1910) is
a masterpiece of the Prairie School of architecture.




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104  CHIC A GO AREA B Y AREA

1 Rockefeller
Memorial Chapel
5850 S Woodlawn Ave. Map 7 C4.
Tel (773) 702-2100. q Garfield (Red
Line) then bus 2, 6, 55. £ 59th.
Open 8am–5:30pm daily. 5 11am
Sun, 10am daily in summer. 7
8 Concerts. ∑ rockefeller.
uchicago.edu
Rockefeller Memorial Chapel
is Bertram G. Goodhue’s 1928
interpretation of Gothic (see
p28). The chapel is topped
with a 207-ft (63-m) tower.
It is the tallest building on
campus: John D. Rockefeller, Bust of a Man (c.1840 BC), at the Oriental Institute Museum
as a condition of his bequest, 3 Oriental Institute
required that this structure since 1919. The museum
be the university’s dominant Museum presents the institute’s
feature. Contributing to its 1155 E 58th St. Map 7 C4. Tel (773) famed collection of over
tradition of musical excellence 702-9514. q Garfield (Red or Green 100,000 artifacts from the
is one of Chicago’s oldest Line) then bus 2, 6, 55. £ 59th. earliest civilizations of the
choral ensembles, and the Open 10am–6pm Tue, Thu–Sat; world. It is also one of only
stunning E.M. Skinner organ. 10am–8:30pm Wed; noon–6pm three places in the world
The 72-bell tower, the bells Sun. Closed public hols. 7 8 = where you can see a
weighing from 10.5 lb (5 kg) ∑ oi.uchicago.edu reconstruction of an Assyrian
to 18.5 tons, is the second- palace (c.721–705 BC).
largest in the world. The The Oriental Institute Museum Other highlights of the
bells ring at noon and 6pm is the exhibition arm of the museum include a monu mental
weekdays, after service, Oriental Institute, its scholars sculpture (c.1334–25 BC) of King
and during the annual having excavated in virtually Tutankhamen from a Luxor
carillon festival. every region of the Near East temple. At 17 ft (5 m), it is the

2 Robie House
5757 S Woodlawn Ave. Map 8 D4. Tel
(312) 994-4000. q Garfield (Green &
Red Line) then bus 2, 6, 55. £ 59th.
Open Wed–Sun. Closed Tue, Jan 1,
Thanksgiving, Dec 24, 25 & 31. &
8 mandatory: 11am, 1pm, 3pm
Mon–Fri; 11am–3:30pm every 30
minutes at weekends; additional tours
in Jun–Aug: 4pm, 5pm, 6pm Thu. =
∑ gowright.org Frank Lloyd Wright-designed dining-room set from Robie House
Frank Lloyd Wright’s world- blocks sit parallel to each other; Leaded stained-glass windows and
famous Robie House is the a smaller square third story is doors, which run the length of the
quintessential expression of positioned at their junction. living room, allow for both privacy
and natural light.
the Prairie School movement There is no basement and no
(see p29). Designed in 1908 attic. The exterior design of the
for Frederick Robie, a bicycle house perfectly captures the
and motorbike manufacturer, prairie landscape of flat, open
and completed in 1910, the fields. The roof’s sweeping
home is one of Wright’s last planes embody the house’s
Prairie School houses: Wright aesthetic of bold
left both his family and his Oak rectilinear simplicity.
Park practice during its three- Steel beams, some 60 ft
year construction. (18 m) long, support
Robie House has three the over-hanging
distinct parts combining to roof. Their use was
create a balanced whole. Two, unorthodox in residential
two-story rectangular concrete architecture at the time.




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SOUTH SIDE  105


tallest ancient Egyptian statue important 20th century and
in the western hemisphere. Asian artworks.
The museum’s Egyptian The museum’s café, with
collection, which includes tall windows overlooking the
objects of ancient Egyptian tranquil sculpture garden, is
daily life and religious and a great spot for a quiet lunch.
funerary practices, is one of the
largest in the US.
5 University of
4 Smart Museum Chicago
of Art Quadrangles
5550 S Greenwood Ave. Map 7 C4. Bounded by 57th & 59th sts., Ellis &
Tel (773) 702-0200. q Garfield (Red Henry Moore’s Nuclear Energy, outside University aves. Map 7 C4. q Garfield
or Green Line) then bus 2, 6, 55. the Smart Museum (Red or Green Line) then bus 2, 6, 55.
Open 10am–5pm Tue, Wed, Fri–Sun; £ 59th.
10am–8pm Thu. Closed public hols. including antiquities and
7 8 - = h Special events. Old Master prints, Asian The cloistered quadrangle plan
∑ smartmuseum.uchicago.edu paintings, calligraphies, and for the University of Chicago –
ceramics. By showing its works in the 1890s, one of the first in
If you are feeling overwhelmed in rotating, thematic displays, the US – was developed by
by the crowds at Chicago’s the museum ensures its architect Henry Ives Cobb. He
major museums, this is the collection is made available to patterned the unified campus
place to come for an intimate the public. The museum also after English universities
encounter with art. Named owns important post-war Cambridge and Oxford. Despite
after David and Alfred Smart, Chicago artwork, furniture years of development and
founders of Esquire Magazine and glass from Robie House, modification, the six broken
and the museum’s benefactors, and early modern and quadrangles surrounding a
the Smart Museum was contemporary painting and seventh still reflect Cobb’s vision.
established in 1974 as the art sculpture. A 1999 renovation Cobb Gate, at the north
museum of the University of has allowed for more entrance, is a gargoyled
Chicago. It holds more than comprehensive displays of ceremonial gateway donated
8,000 artworks and artifacts, the museum’s collection of by Cobb in 1900.

A huge chimney crowns Also bold but simple, the The house is an organic
the intersection of the interior is furnished with whole, underscored by the
house’s three sections,
uniting the parts. Wright-designed furniture. harmonious interplay between
The innovative dining-room the exterior and interior and is
set is on view at the Smart admired by architects worldwide.
A large hearth is
the focal point of Museum (see above). The house The building was designated
the living room. is a Gesamtkunstwerk, a total a National Historic Landmark
work of art. Every item in the and donated to the University
house contributes to its beauty. of Chicago in 1963.
The long Roman bricks
are a Wright signature.











Main
Entrance Robie House Shop








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106  CHIC A GO AREA B Y AREA


Plaisance. Landscape architects ordinary and extraordinary alike.
Frederick Law Olmsted and Founded in 1961, the museum
Calvert Vaux, designers of is the oldest such institution
New York’s Central Park, in the US.
developed the South Park The museum’s permanent
plan in 1871. The park exhibit “Songs of My People”
commission balked at creating brings together diverse images
a canal and so the original by black photojournalists of
plan was never rea lized in African-American lives.
its entirety. In 1872, Horace Memorabilia from the life and
W.S. Cleveland was hired to political career of Chicago’s first
oversee the com pletion of black mayor, Harold Washington,
Washington Park. make up the “Harold Washington
Combining expanses of in Office” exhibit.
meadows with borders of trees The wooden “Freedom Now”
University students playing soccer on the and shrubs, Washington Park’s bas-relief mural illustrates
Midway Plaisance pastoral landscape also has a centuries of black history.
pond and lagoon. At the Significant leaders are depicted,
6 Midway Plaisance northeast end of the park is along with revolutionary events.
Bounded by 59th & 60th sts., Cottage Drexel Fountain, one of the “Africa Speaks” presents art
Grove & Stony Island aves. oldest fountains in Chicago. from Africa, much of which
Map 7 B5–8 E5. £ 59th. It was designed in 1881–2 has a functional purpose.
by Henry Manger. Handcrafted door panels, for
Midway Plaisance, a 1-mile- The park’s most magnificent example, are given to a
(1.6-km-) long greenway feature is the sculpture Nigerian bride on her wedding
at the south end of the Fountain of Time at the day so she may close her
University of Chicago south end, where boudoir while decorating it.
campus and the city’s Washington Park The ritual masks from closed
broadest boulevard, meets Midway West African societies are
serves as the uni versity’s Plaisance. Designed in particularly striking.
recreation grounds. 1922 by the Chicago
The Midway is also artist Lorado Taft
an excellent vantage (1860–1936), this 9 Hyde Park
point from which to haunting monument Bounded by Hyde Park Blvd., 61st St.,
view the university’s depicts the cloaked Washington Park, & Lake Michigan.
Gothic buildings. figure of Time Map 8 D3. £ 53rd; 55th-56th-57th;
Designed by Frederick watching the 59th. 8 call (312) 922-3432. 0 =
Law Olmsted and endless march of
Calvert Vaux as the humanity. It was Hyde Park is one of Chicago’s
link between erected to most pleasant neighborhoods.
Washington and celebrate 100 The Univer sity of Chicago’s
Jackson parks, the Detail of Taft’s Fountain of Time, years of US- presence contributes a
Midway was the Washington Park British peace. collegiate atmosphere, while
site of the 1893 the many shops, restaurants,
Exposition’s Bazaar of Nations. 8 DuSable Museum theaters, and galleries provide
It was here that the Ferris a broad array of attractions.
wheel – 250 ft (76 m) high – of African American The area was open country-
made its debut. History side in 1853 when Chicago
lawyer Paul Cornell established
740 E 56th Pl. Map 7 B4. Tel (773) 947- the community on a swath of
7 Washington Park 0600. q Garfield (Red or Green Line) lakeside property.
then bus 55. @ 4. Open 10am– 5pm
Bounded by 51st & 60th sts., Martin Tue–Sat; noon–5pm Sun. Closed
Luther King Jr. Dr. & Cottage Grove major public hols. & (children under
Ave. Map 7 A2–A5. q 51st; Garfield 6 free; free Sun). 7 8 book in
(Green Line). advance. = h Lectures, films.
∑ dusablemuseum.org
Named after the first US
president, Washington Park As part of its mission to
was originally intended to celebrate the rich and diverse
be part of a grand South history and culture of African
Park, comprising both Americans and their
Washington Park and Jackson contributions to the nation, the
Park, connected by a canal DuSable Museum highlights Carefully untended gardens characteristic of
running through Midway accomplishments of the the Rosalie Villas, in Hyde Park




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SOUTH SIDE  107


Americans moved to the q Jackson Park
area, but the late 1940s saw Bounded by 57th & 67th sts., Stony
a period of decline. A massive Island Ave. & Lake Michigan. Map 8
urban renewal project was E5. £ 59th; 63rd. 8 call (312) 922-
begun in the early 1950s, 3432; bird walk, call (773) 493-7058.
and by the 1980s, the
neighborhood had undergone Jackson Park was designed
a revival. Kenwood’s rise has by Frederick Law Olmsted
further been spurred by the and Calvert Vaux in 1871
election of its most famous as part of the unrealized
resident, Barack Obama, as South Park plan (see p106).
Isidore Heller House, in Hyde Park, by President of the United States. Even though the park was
Frank Lloyd Wright The neighborhood redesigned after being
has some of the chosen as the main
The quiet suburb was trans- finest mansions site for the 1893
formed by three events: its constructed in World’s Fair, and
1889 annexation by the City Chicago, along with again in 1895, its
of Chicago, the 1890 founding many Prairie School original aquatic
of the University of Chicago, (see p29) homes. theme is still evident.
and the 1893 World’s Columbian Two commissions Osaka Garden is
Exposition. Many of the houses Frank Lloyd Wright a re-creation of the
from this 1890s spurt of undertook while Japanese garden
development survive. Isidore working for Adler built for the fair.
Heller House (5132 South and Sullivan include This serene spot on
Woodlawn Avenue) is a Frank the George W. Wooded Island has
Lloyd Wright design (1897) that Blossom House a pavilion, waterfall,
precedes his celebrated Robie (4858 Kenwood and gorgeous
House (see pp104–105) by a Avenue) and the cherry trees. The
decade yet reveals his Warren McArthur House island is considered
characteristic Prairie style. (4852 Kenwood Avenue). the best place in
Rosalie Villas (Harper Avenue, Noteworthy are Chicago for bird-
from 57th to 59th), designed by the mansions on watching: more than
Solon S. Beman between 1884 Greenwood Avenue 120 species of birds
and 1890, was Hyde Park’s first between 49th and have been sighted
planned community. It consists 50th, in particular the here. In the center
of about 50 Queen Anne-style elegant Prairie style of the park, a smaller,
residences, each unique in of the Ernest J. gilded replica
architectural detail. Magerstadt House Jackson Park’s “Golden Lady,” of the 65-ft-
The retail heart of Hyde (4930 South a replica of Daniel Chester (20-m-) statue
Park is 53rd Street, while ethnic Greenwood Avenue), French’s The Republic The Republic
restaurants cluster on 55th designed in 1908 by celebrates the
Street. Bookstores thrive in George W. Maher, as well as fair’s 25th anniversary. There
Hyde Park; it has been called the ornate houses lining are also two beaches and
the largest center for books South Kimbark Avenue. several sports facilities.
in the Midwest.
0 Kenwood
Bounded by 47th St., Hyde Park Blvd.,
Cottage Grove Ave. & Lake Park Ave.
Map 7 C1. q 47th (Green Line) then
bus 28. £ 47th. 8 call (312) 922-
3432. 0 =
Historic Kenwood was
established in 1856 when
dentist Jonathan A. Kennicott
bought and subdivided a large
plot of land near 43rd Street.
Over the next three decades it
became one of the most
fashionable South Side
communities. In the 1920s,
many middle-class African The contemplative Osaka Garden in Jackson Park




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108  CHIC A GO AREA B Y AREA

w Museum of Science and Industry

The Museum of Science and Industry celebrates the scientific
and technological accomplishments of humankind, with an
emphasis on achievements of the 20th century. Originally
called the Rosenwald Industrial Museum, after the museum’s
benefactor, its name was soon changed at Julius Rosenwald’s
urging, who said that the museum belonged not to him but to
the people. While the building, a monumental Neo-Classical
structure dominating Jackson Park, is a nod to history (see
p111), the museum within has been the North American
leader in modern, interactive displays, making the exploration
of science and technology an accessible experience.


Colleen Moore’s Fairy Castle
This 9-sq-ft (0.8-sq-m) dollhouse
is complete with miniature
furniture and working electricity
and plumbing.


Foucault’s Pendulum
is modeled on the one
invented by the French
physicist in 1851 to prove
that the Earth rotates.
. U-505 Submarine
This exhibition tells the story of a World War II U-Boat
that sank eight allied ships before being captured by Lower Floor
the US Navy in 1944.














Apollo 8 Command Module
This historic spacecraft played an
important role in early US lunar
missions, which culminated in the
landing on the moon.

Entry Hall

. All Aboard the
Silver Streak
Climb aboard the
record-breaking
1930s train that Main Entrance, accessed
revolutionized from the three-level
industrial design. parking garage.




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MUSEUM OF SCIENCE AND INDUSTR Y  109


VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Practical Information
5700 S Lake Shore Dr.
Map 8 E4. Tel (773) 684-1414,
(800) 468-6674. Open 9:30am–
Take Flight 4pm daily. Closed Thanksgiving &
Learn about the technology behind modern-day flight on Dec 25. & see website for more
a Boeing 727 that is suspended above the galleries. information. 7 8 0 - =
h Films. ∑ msichicago.org
Coal Mine transports Balcony floor Transport
q Garfield (Green Line) then
visitors through a
reproduction of an eastbound bus 55. @ 2, 6, 10.
£ 55th-56th-57th St.
early Illinois coal mine
so realistic its walls
are made of coal.
YOU! The Experience
Main Floor examines the connections
between the mind, body,
and spirit, and demonstrates
the extraordinary complexity
of the human body.










. Science Storms
contains large-scale
recreations of natural
phenomena such as
North Entrance tsunamis, tornadoes,
and avalanches.


. Transportation Gallery
Explore human transportation
throughout the years: climb aboard
the Empire State Express 999;
admire the 1960s automobile, the
Spirit of America; and gaze at the
array of historic aircraft.


Key
Museum Guide Space exploration
Transportation
The museum’s Entry Hall houses the museum shop,
information desk, and Silver Streak train exhibit. The Human Body
Permanent exhibits are displayed throughout the The Farm
lower floor, main floor, and balcony. Each floor has Live Science Experience
a color-coded staircase on each corner facilitating Energy and Environment
navigation of the building. Each staircase itself
features an intriguing exhibit. The Omnimax Permanent exhibitions
Theater is in the Henry Crown Space Center. Cafés Temporary exhibitions
are on the lower floor. Non exhibition space




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110  CHIC A GO AREA B Y AREA


Exploring the Museum of Science The history of aviation is well
and Industry represented in the museum’s
transportation zone. Look up to
the balcony to see a rare Boeing
The Museum of Science and Industry has more than 40B-2 airplane suspended from
35,000 artifacts, including 2,000 interactive displays, the ceiling.
making it one of the largest science museums in the world. Nearby is Take Flight, an
It encompasses everything from basic science to advanced exhibit explaining the scientific
technology. Space explo ration, transportation, and human principles behind the wonder
of flight, such as radar, aero-
biology are particularly strong areas. With more than 350,000 dynamics, and engine and wing
sq ft (32,500 sq m) of exhibition space, there’s more than construction. This exhibit
enough to keep visitors of all ages engaged for a full day contains one of the museum’s
of investigation and discovery. largest attractions, a cantilevered
United Airlines Boeing 727.
One of the museum’s most
popular exhibits is the restored
U-505 Submarine, the only
German U-Boat to be found in
the US. This World War II boat
was captured by US naval
forces off the west coast of
Africa in 1944. The submarine
forms the centerpiece of a
35,000 sq-ft (3,250-sq-m)
The Museum of Science and Industry indoor exhibit, which gives
visitors the chance to
A 20-minute movie simulates experience the interior of
Space Exploration for viewers the experience of a vessel, learn about the
The Henry Crown Space Center blasting off in a space shuttle. psychological stresses of
is the epicenter of the museum’s warfare in an enclosed space,
display on space exploration. Transportation and see over 200 original
Here, you can view the Apollo 8 artifacts. The exhibition also
Command Module – the first Pick a mode of transport – tells the incredible story of how
manned spacecraft to circle the from train, plane, to the massive U-Boat was
moon, orbiting ten times in automobile – and you can transported to Illinois. Visitors
December 1968. Less than 13 ft be sure the museum has an who wish to take a guided,
(4 m) in diameter and weighing outstanding example. on-board tour must purchase
13,100 lb (6,000 kg), the vessel Train-nostalgia buffs will an exhibit ticket.
still bears the scars of its epic enjoy the All Aboard the Closer to earth is the
journey on its pitted exterior. Silver Streak exhibit, which Transportation Gallery’s Spirit of
The exhibit includes a replica showcases the first diesel- America, the first car to break the
of NASA’s Apollo Lunar Module electric, streamlined passenger 500 mph (800 kph) land speed
Trainer, used for astronaut train in America, the Pioneer barrier. On October 15, 1964,
training, and a 6.5-oz (185-g) Zephyr. Built in 1934, the Craig Breedlove became the
piece of moon rock retrieved Zephyr was the swiftest, “fastest man on wheels” when he
by the Apollo 17 mission. sleekest train in the US, piloted this missile-like vehicle to
The Space Center is also initiating the conversion spectacular speeds, and skidded
home to the Aurora 7 Mercury from steam to diesel-electric into a pond at 200 mph (300
Space Capsule, one of the locomotion and ushering in kph) but emerged unhurt. The
earliest manned spacecrafts to the era of luxury passenger rail stunt also earned a place in The
orbit the Earth – doing so four travel. The Zephyr’s interior was Guinness Book of World Records
times in a row in May 1962. dramatically different from the for the longest set of skidmarks.
opulent Pullman cars in use at
the time (see p121) yet just as
elegant in its simplicity. Visitors
can get behind the controls
and pretend to drive this
historic train.
The museum also has one of
the largest train models in the
world. The 3,500-sq-ft (325-sq-m)
Henry Crown Space Center, showcasing US model highlights the role of the The Entry Hall, the popular Silver Streak
space exploration railroad in the US economy. train in the background




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MUSEUM OF SCIENCE AND INDUSTR Y  111


From Plaster to Stone
Architect Charles B. Atwood (see p32) based his design of this majestic
building – built as a temporary structure for the 1893 World’s Fair and,
today, the only surviving building from the fair – on classical Greek
models. Over 270 columns and 24 caryatids, weighing 6 tons each,
grace the exterior. Covered in plaster, with a roof of skylights, the
building deteriorated badly after the fair. The Field Museum (see pp88–
91) occupied it briefly, until 1920. The building then sat in a state of
disrepair until the mid-1920s, when Julius Rosenwald, chairman of
Sears, Roebuck and Co., campaigned to save it and founded the
museum, donating millions of dollars to a massive reconstruction
effort. Exterior plaster was replaced with 28,000 tons of limestone and
marble in an 11-year renovation. The Museum of Science and Industry
opened in 1933, in time for the Century of Progress World’s Exposition.


Fast machines in the museum’s
transportation zone

The Human Body
A large, interactive exhibit
using sophisticated computer Some of the original buildings during the 1893 World’s Columbian Exposition
graphics and real-life images,
YOU! The Experience show-
cases the connections Through interactive exhibits, Shows are limited to a
between the human mind, visitors can design their own maximum of 70 visitors, so
body, and spirit. It examines cereal, “harvest” a field of corn show up early if you want
and celebrates the experience or feel what it is like to milk to get a seat.
of life, demonstrating the a cow. They can also follow milk,
extraordinary complexity of corn and soybeans through Energy and
the human body. Museum- a fascinating voyage from
goers can test their physical Midwest roots to a variety Environment
abilities with boxing moves of everyday products. One of the museum’s most
and a virtual coach, for popular exhibits is Coal Mine.
example. Human specimens It is worth waiting for in the
include embryos and fetuses Live Science Experience inevitable lineup. This re-creation
in various phases of devel- Located on the balcony level, of a 1933 Illinois coal mine
opment. You can interact with the Live Science Experience is a is remarkably life-like. The
the 13 ft (4m) tall “Heart” permanent exhibition space 20-minute tour (exhibition ticket
installation by transmitting comprising labs and classrooms required) begins at the top of a
your pulse to make it beat. where live science demonstra- mineshaft, where an elevator
Probably the most unusual tions take place on a daily basis. takes visitors down in semi-
display in the exhibit are the Visitors can see a fiery chemistry darkness to a bituminous coal
anatomical slices. In the 1940s, show, dissect eyeballs, diagnose seam and a fascinating
the corpses of a woman and a real human patient simulator, demonstration of coal-mining
man who died of natural and much more. Beyond hands- machinery. A short ride on a
causes were frozen and then on lab experiments, there are mine train ends this unique, if a
cut in to 0.5 in (1.25 cm) several entertaining Science little claustrophobic,
sections, both vertically and Theater shows inviting experience.
horizontally, and preserved in visitors to sit Nature’s power
fluid between glass. These down for some is the focus of
displays allow you to look right science-centric the Science
inside the human body. entertainment. Storms exhibit. The
“Taste Buddies” scientific principles
show how taste behind tornadoes,
Farm Tech
and smell Bronze plaques on the main doors lightning, fire,
This exhibit takes a look at combine to honor the sciences tsunamis, and
modern technology on a make flavors avalanches are
21st century farm. The Farm while the funny science play presented via large-scale
features a full-size tractor, a “Poop Happens” breaks down recreations, including a 40 ft
greenhouse, and replicas of the mystery of how food is (12 m) tornado, an avalanche
a dairy barn and a cornfield. processed in our bodies. disk, and a lightning generator.




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CHIC A GO AREA B Y AREA  113

FARTHER AFIELD

Chicago’s outlying areas offer a wealth of 19th-century neighborhoods. A little farther
sightseeing opportunities. For lovers of is Brookfield Zoo, renowned for its realistic
architecture, Oak Park is a must-see for its animal habitats. Walking paths lead through
Frank Lloyd Wright designs. Other Chicago varied landscapes at Morton Arboretum.
neighborhoods, such as Wicker Park and Visitors with more time can traverse the canal
Lakeview, each with its own distinct corridor, which runs alongside the 1848
character, are ideal day-trip destinations. historic canal and encompasses extensive
Pullman is one of the US’s best-preserved recreational trails and several fine museums.

Sights at a Glance
Historic Buildings, Districts 3 Wicker Park Key
Parks, and Canals 6 Near West Side Urban area
5 Oak Park 8 Lower West Side Interstate highway
7 Jane Addams Hull-House Museum Zoos and Botanic Gardens
q Illinois and Michigan Canal 1 Lincoln Park Zoo State highway
National Heritage Corridor (pp114–15) Major road
w Pullman Historic District
4 Garfield Park Conservatory
Neighborhoods 9 Brookfield Zoo
2 Lakeview and Wrigleyville 0 Morton Arboretum

0 kilometers 5
0 miles 5

290
Elgin 294 Skokie 90
Elmwood 43 50 Lakeview
Park Wicker
Des Plaines River 94
64 Park
20 Oak Park Near West
Lombard 290 Side
38
Side
20 Berwyn Cicero Lower West
56
355 294 34
Brookfield Chicago Sanitary and Ship Canal
88 55 90 41
171
Westmont South
La Grange Garfield Side
Ridge 94
Willowbrook Englewood
90
43 50
Darien Burbank
53
Illinois and Michigan Canal Oak Lawn
55 294 12 20
Bolingbrook 171 45 1 Pullman
83 West
Pullman
Lemont 83 Blue Island
94
1
171
Orland Park
57
Oak Forest South
Lockport Holland
Joliet Bradley
Skyline of downtown Chicago, as seen from the People’s Gas Education Pavilion at Lincoln Park Zoo


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114  CHIC A GO AREA B Y AREA

1 Lincoln Park Zoo

Established in 1868 with the gift of two swans from New York’s
Central Park, Lincoln Park Zoo is one of the nation’s only free-
admission zoos. Today, more than 1,000 mammals, reptiles, and
birds from around the world live here, in realistic habitats. The
zoo’s status as a world leader in wildlife conservation is evident
in its educational exhibits, as well as in its many international
efforts to save endangered species. Although it is not the
Chicago area’s largest zoo (see Brookfield Zoo p119), Lincoln
Park Zoo, in the heart of Lincoln Park, is easily accessible
from Downtown. The park, Chicago’s largest, offers walking
and biking paths, paddle-boating ponds, lagoons,
and sandy beaches.








West Entrance
Lincoln Park Conservatory
This stunning conservatory (1890–95),
designed by architect Joseph L.
Silsbee, houses many exotic plants,
including orchids. Thousands of
flowers grown here are for park use.






KEY Waterfowl Lagoon
Flamingos and other waterfowl
1 Regenstein Macaque Forest find refuge in this peaceful lagoon, S T O C K T O N D R I V E
is the zoo’s newest exhibition, one of the zoo’s earliest features.
and features the iconic Japanese
snow monkeys in a lush, wooded
habitat which is on view year-round.
2 Pritzker Family Children’s
Zoo showcases wood-dwelling
animals such as beavers, bears,
and wolves.
3 Regenstein Small Mammal-
Reptile House This exhibit show-
cases 40 species, including African
Dwarf crocodiles.
4 Café Brauer was designed in
1908 by Dwight Perkins, a leading
architect of the Prairie School.
The building was restored in 1989.
Its Great Hall has spectacular
chandeliers and a skylight.
. Farm-in-the-Zoo
5 Gateway Building, at This working farm shelters cows,
the zoo’s main east entrance, horses, chic kens, and pigs. Children
houses the information and most enjoy watching the daily
security desk. milking routine and horse grooming.




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F AR THER AFIELD  115

Regenstein African
Journey VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
This tour is designed
to immerse visitors in Practical Information
the African landscape by 2200 N Cannon Dr. Tel (312) 742-
leading them through the 2000. Open Zoo grounds:
lush habitats of giraffes, 9am–6pm daily; May–Sep:
meerkats, rhinos, and 9am–7pm Sat, Sun & hols;
other African animals. Nov–Mar: 10am–5pm. 7 0
= h on N Cannon Dr.
Workshops: (call (312) 742-2053),
special events: (call (312) 742-

2283). ∑ lpzoo.org

Transport
C
A
q Clark/Division. @ 22, 36, 151.
N
N
O
East Entrance
N

D
R
Kovler Lion House
I
V
Rare cats, including
E
Siberian tigers,
inhabit this 1912
historic building.
0 meters 100
0 yards 100










. Regenstein Center for
African Apes
The zoo’s collection of lowland
gorillas is one of the largest in the
US – testimony to the zoo’s highly
successful breeding program.



Antelope and Zebra Area
Various hoofed animals live
in 11 outdoor habitats by
the zoo’s south pond,
including the threatened
South Grevy’s zebra from Africa
Entrance and the endangered
Bactrian camel from
Mongolia, as well as rare
gazelles, antelopes, deer,
and alpacas.
For keys to symbols see back flap


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116  CHIC A GO AREA B Y AREA

4 Garfield Park
To sample Lakeview’s architec-
tural heritage, visit Alta Vista Conservatory
Terrace, between Grace and 300 North Central Park Ave. Tel (312)
Byron Streets. This block 746-5100. q Conservatory-Central
of turn-of-the-century row Park Dr. (Green Line). Open 9am–5pm
houses was designed by (to 8pm Wed) daily. 8 available to
Samuel Gross, who wished members. = 7 h
to replicate the row houses ∑ garfieldconservatory.org
he had seen in London after
a trip to Europe. Designed by Jens Jensen, (who
Hawthorne Place, north of was known as “the dean of
Belmont Avenue, east of Prairie landscapes”) in 1906,
Broadway, is a rare surviving the spectacular Garfield Park
Victorian-era residential design Conservatory is a large,
that is typical of the area’s enclosed garden which houses
Wrigley Field baseball stadium, home of early development. the world’s largest public
the famous Chicago Cubs Beautiful tombstones mark horticultural collection under
2 Lakeview and the resting places of Chicago’s glass. Children are well catered
notables in Graceland Cemetery for at the Elizabeth Morse
Wrigleyville (4001 North Clark Street), just Genius Children’s Garden, with
north of Lake view. Buried here exhibits showing how plants
West of Lake Michigan to Ashland
Ave., from Diversey Ave. to W Irving are Louis Sullivan (see p32) and grow and reproduce. Although
Park Rd. q Belmont (Red, Brown, George Pullman (see p121), the conservatory was greatly
Purple Lines). @ 9, 22, 36. _ See among others. A site map is damaged in a hail storm in
Entertainment: p159. available at the cemetery’s office. 2011, rebuilding is nearly done.
Lakeview and Wrigleyville are
two of Chicago’s most colorful 5 Oak Park
neighborhoods. Now a cultural Bounded by N North Ave, S Roosevelt
melting pot, the area was Rd., E Austin Blvd. & W Harlem Ave.
settled by German immigrants n (708) 524-7800. q Oak Park
in the 1830s. Farms dotted (Green Line); Harlem/Lake (Green
the landscape until the mid- Line). £ Oak Park (Union Pacific/West
1800s, when the area began Line). Visitors’ center: 1010 Lake St.
to develop as a residential Open 10am–5pm daily. Closed Jan 1,
neighborhood of working- Thanksgiving, Dec 25. 8 9 Frank
class Swedish immigrants. Lloyd Wright Information Center: 209
After annexation by the S LaSalle St. Tel (312) 994-4000. 8
City in 1889, a spurt of ∑ gowright.org
development established
the area as one of the liveliest Rapp House, one of Wicker Park’s In 1889, Frank Lloyd Wright
in Chicago – a distinction it architectural gems moved to Oak Park, at the
continues to hold today. age of 22. During the next 20
Wrigleyville, the northern 3 Wicker Park years here, he created many
half of Lakeview, is named after Bounded by North Ave., Milwaukee, groundbreaking buildings as his
Wrigley Field, home of the Leavitt, and Division sts. q Damen legendary Prairie School style
famous Chicago Cubs baseball (Blue Line). @ 56. _ Around the evolved. This community is
team. This charming stadium, Coyote (Sep). home to 25 Wright buildings –
designed by Zachary Taylor the largest grouping of his work
Davis in 1914, is the oldest If you are looking for the trendy anywhere. Oak Park is also
National League ballpark. The area of Chicago, Wicker Park,
community resisted electric brimming with galleries,
lighting of the stadium into boutiques, coffeehouses,
the late 1980s. restaurants, and nightclubs is it.
Lakeview hosts a thriving In the late 1800s, Scandinavian
theater scene as well as and German immigrants built
excellent restaurants, mansions here and many of
coffeehouses, bars, specialty them remain, making this a
shops, and bookshops. Vintage great area for an architectural
boutiques line Belmont Avenue tour. Of interest are John Rapp
between Halsted and Sheffield House (1407 North Hoyne
Streets. The Boystown region in Avenue) and Holy Trinity
Lakeview is also the heart of Cathedral (1121 Leavitt Street), Frank Lloyd Wright’s Home and Studio, his
Chicago’s gay community. designed by Louis Sullivan. residence for 20 years




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F AR THER AFIELD  117


architecture.” It was built
between 1906 and 1908 using
what was then an unusual
technique of poured reinforced
concrete, in part because of a
budget of only $45,000. Unity
Temple is a masterpiece of
powerful simplicity wedded
with functional ornamentation.
Ernest Hemingway lived
in Oak Park until the age of
20. The Ernest Hemingway
Birthplace (339 North Oak Park
Ave.) is a grand Victorian
home with turn-of-the-century
Unity Temple, Frank Lloyd Wright’s “little jewel” furnishings, and has displays on
the life of this Nobel Prize
known for its literary association: (1895: 333 Forest Ave.) is a winner. The Ernest Hemingway
famed American writer Ernest hybrid of styles, with Tudor Museum (200 North Oak Park
Hemingway (see p33) was born Revival and Gothic elements. Ave.) features artifacts from
here in 1899. At the southern end of Oak Hemingway’s early life,
The best place to feast on Park is the masterful Pleasant including a childhood diary.
Wright’s achievement is the Home (217 Home Ave.), a
Frank Lloyd Wright Home and 30-room Prairie-style mansion
Studio. Designed by Wright in designed in 1897 by George
1889, the superbly restored W. Maher. The house contains
residence and workspace is extraordinary art glass
where the architect developed (designed panels of leaded
his influential Prairie style. glass), intricate woodwork, and
Nearby are two private homes decorative motifs, as well as a
that reveal Wright’s versatility. display on the area’s history.
The Arthur Heurtley House Wright was particularly proud
(1902: 318 Forest Ave.) is of Unity Temple (875 Lake St.),
typically Prairie style, with its his design for the Unitarian
row of windows spanning the Universalist Congregation. He
low roofline and its simple called this church, one of his
but elegant entrance arch. most important designs, his first The Victorian house in which Ernest
The Moore-Dugal House expression of an “entirely new Hemingway was born

Oak Park
CHICAGO
1 Frank Lloyd Wright Home Frank Lloyd Wright C H I C A G O A V E N U E
and Studio Home & Studio
2 Arthur Heurtley House Ernest Hemingway
SUPERIOR STREET Birthplace
3 Moore-Dugal House Moore-Dugal Arthur Heurtley SUPERIOR STREET
4 Pleasant Home House House
5 Unity Temple ERIE STREET
6 Ernest Hemingway KEN I LWO R T H AVEN U E GROVE AVENUE ERIE STREET
Birthplace MA RI ON ST R EET ONTARIO STREET F O R E S T A V E N U E ERIE STREET O A K PA R K A V E N U E Ernest Hemingway
7 Ernest Hemingway Museum Austin Museum
Gardens Grace ONTARIO STREET
Episcopal Scoville
Church E U C L I D A V E N U E
Park
L A K E ST R E ET
Calvary Unity Temple
Memorial Church
N O R T H B O U L E V A R D
Oak Park/
Lake
Harlem/ Oak Park S O U T H B O U L E V A R D
Lake Metra
MARION STREET CLINTON AVENUE GROVE AVENUE
Home
0 meters 300 Pleasant
0 yards 300 Mills HOME AVENUE
Park
For keys to symbols see back flap
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118  CHIC A GO AREA B Y AREA

8 Lower West Side
Bounded by Chicago River, 16th St., &
Pulaski Rd. q 18th. @ 9, 18, 60.
The Lower West Side, like the
Near West Side, developed as
an industrial, working-class
neighborhood after the 1871
fire. Immigrants from Bohemia
were the first to arrive, in the
1870s, followed in the early
20th century by Germans,
Poles, and Yugoslavians. In
the 1950s, an influx of Mexican
and Puerto Rican immigrants
brought a Hispanic flavor to
the community.
Jane Addams Hull-House Museum, seen from the courtyard Today, the neighborhood
of Pilsen, centered along 18th
6 Near West Side 1960s, in the modern style Street between South Damen
known as Brutalism. The campus Avenue and South Halsted
Bounded by Chicago River, 16th &
Kinzie sts., & Ogden Ave. Map 3 A1– is characterized by unadorned Street, is home to many fine
A5. q UIC-Halsted. @ 8, 60. concrete buildings with rows Mexican restaurants, bakeries,
of narrow vertical windows. and specialty shops. The sounds
Over the years, Chicago’s Near of salsa are everywhere, the
West Side has experienced 7 Jane Addams inviting scent of corn tortillas
waves of successive immigrant Hull-House emanates from tortillerias, and
settlement. Today, it is colorful murals brighten the
one of the best places to Museum streetscape. Artists, lured here
experience the city’s many 800 S Halsted St. Tel (312) 413-5353. by low rents in the 1980s,
ethnic communities. Map 3 A3. q UIC-Halsted. @ 7, 8, contribute a touch of
It was settled in the 1840s 60. Closed major public hols. & eclecticism to the area.
and 1850s by working-class 8 mandatory: 10am–4pm Tue–Fri, The best way to experience
Irish immigrants. The Great noon–4pm Sun. h this vibrant district is to stroll
Chicago Fire of 1871 began ∑ hullhousemuseum.org along 18th Street, admire the
here, on DeKoven Street late-19th-century buildings –
(No. 558), in the O’Leary barn. This museum, which is part of one of the most interesting is
Appropriately (or ironically, the University of Illinois the Romanesque-style Thalia
depending on how you look at campus, celebrates the work Hall at the corner of Allport
it), the Chicago Fire Academy of Jane Addams (see p31), Street – and perhaps stop at
is now located on the site. An who won the 1931 Nobel a street vendor for a tasty cob
arresting bronze sculpture of Peace Prize for her social- of roasted corn or “elote”.
flames marks the spot where justice work and advocacy For more substantial fare,
the devastating fire and became perhaps the one of the best restaurants in
reportedly began. most famous woman in the Pilsen is Nuevo León (No. 1515),
Following the fire, US. In her pioneering work where the food is tasty and the
Russian and Polish with the poor, Addams portions huge. Café Jumping
Jews settled the area fought for child-labor laws, a Bean (No. 1439) exhibits work
in the 1890s, while to minimum wage, and better by local artists and serves up
the north, a lively public sanitation, among
Greek Town developed, other social causes.
centered along Halsted It was in this mansion in the
Street, between then industrial center of
Madison and Van Buren Chicago that Addams and
Streets. To the west, Ellen Gates Starr established,
Little Italy, centered in 1889, a settlement house
around Taylor to provide social services
Street at Halsted to immigrants, the
Street, flourished. Egon Weiner’s sculpture at poor, and the
The University of the Chicago Fire Academy dispossessed.
Illinois at Chicago The house’s interior
holds a prominent position in has been restored to look as it
the area. Walter A. Netsch Jr. did in its early days. There are also Café Jumping Bean on Chicago’s Lower
designed the university in the settlement house exhibits. West Side




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F AR THER AFIELD  119


delicious snacks. Panaderia
El Paraiso (No. 1156) is an
excellent local bakery.
The cultural heart of Pilsen
is the National Museum of
Mexican Art (1852 West 19th
Street; 312-738-1503; 10am–
5pm Tue–Sun), the largest
Mexican arts institution in the
US. The museum rotates a broad
range of exhibitions, covering
subjects as diverse as ancient
Mexico and young avant-garde
artists. The more than 1,500
works in the permanent
collection include Mexican Visitors getting a close-up view of a giraffe in the Habitat Africa! exhibit
masters such as Diego Rivera.
display featuring large cats, swamp with egrets, storks,
including an Amur (Siberian) and a 10-ft- (3-m-) long
tiger. Nearby is the 2,000-seat American alligator, which
Dolphinarium. Shows featuring sleeps with its eyes open.
Atlantic bottlenose dolphins The Living Coast features
are offered here daily. To the three habitats of South
north of the Dolphinarium is America’s western coast:
Pinniped Point: outdoor pools open ocean, near-shore
containing sea lions, harbor waters, and rocky shores.
seals, and walruses. Jellyfish, sharks, and penguins
At the southeast corner of are just a few of the creatures
the grounds is the Hamill Family to be found here.
Play Zoo, where kids can track At the interactive Be a
Signs for Mexican bakeries and eateries animal prints, help build animal Bird exhibit, visitors can learn
lining the streets of Pilsen homes, and see animals up about bird anatomy and
close and personal. behavior, and test their own
Another children’s favorite ability to fly.
9 Brookfield Zoo is Tropic World, one of the One of the most spectacular
largest indoor mixed-species exhibits is Habitat Africa! This
First Ave & 31st St., Brookfield. Tel (708) exhibits in the world. Here, re-created savanna is complete
608-8000. £ Hollywood (Burlington with giraffes and wild dogs.
Northern Santa Fe line). @ 304, rainforest creatures and
311. Open 10am–5pm Mon–Fri, primates from South America, A “danger game” trail allows
10am–6pm Sat & Sun. & (free Jan– Asia, and Africa swing through visitors to pretend they’re
Feb: Tue, Thu, Sat, Sun; Oct–Dec: Tue, trees and wander the forest thirsty animals walking to
Thu; separate adm to some exhibits). floor while visitors watch from a waterhole, their steps
7 8 0 - = h Lectures, the observation deck. The activating taped sounds
weekend special events. Brazilian tapir, with a flexible of predators.
∑ brookfieldzoo.org snout; the giant anteater, with Along the zoo’s northern
a 2-ft- (0.6-m-) long tongue; boundary are enclosures for
Brookfield Zoo, opened in 1934, and Ramar, the 365-lb large animals, including the
is one of the largest zoos in the (165-kg) silverback gorilla, unusual Grevy’s zebras. To the
US. More than 5,900 animals are particularly impressive. south, near Roosevelt Fountain,
representing approximately 440 Close by is the Swamp, an is Pachyderm House, home to
species, gathered from around indoor re-created cypress elephants, rhinos, and hippos.
the world, roam realistic habitats.
Many of the animal exhibits
are outdoors, along the zoo’s
15 miles (24 km) of trails, but
there are also a number of
fascinating indoor displays,
such as the Living Coast and
Tropic World. The Fragile
Kingdom comprises two indoor
exhibits – an African desert
and an Asian rainforest, with
indigenous bats, squirrels,
and foxes – and an outdoor Kangaroos in the Australia House enclosure at Brookfield Zoo




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120  CHIC A GO AREA B Y AREA

0 Morton 14 miles (23 km) of trails,
Arboretum you can drive through the
arboretum in about 50
4100 Illinois Route 53, Lisle.
Tel (630) 968-0074. £ Lisle minutes via 9 miles (15 km)
(Burlington Northern Santa Fe line). of one-way roads. Open-air
Open 7am–sunset daily. & (discount tram tours are offered daily
Wed). 7 8 0 = h Workshops, (weather permitting).
library. ∑ mortonarb.org Begin your visit at the visitors’
center, located near the
Morton Arboretum is home entrance. The center lists daily
to more than 3,400 types of events and seasonal bloom
trees, shrubs, and other plants information. It also has an
from around the world. Eight excellent bookstore and a
lakes and ponds dot this dining area overlooking a
2.5-sq-mile (6.5-sq-km) outdoor pond. The arboretum’s Thornhill
museum, providing wonderful Education Center (open
picnic settings. weekdays) houses displays St. James of the Sag, burial place of many
Founded in 1922 by Joy about Joy Morton and the canal laborers
Morton of the Morton Salt Morton family. The Sterling
Company, the arboretum’s Morton Library has a wide be of great economic benefit
mission is educational. It range of publications on plants, to the region. It took a century
conducts scientific research as gardening and landscaping, and and a half for their prediction
well as providing informative natural history. It also holds rare to come true, and the loss of
public displays. Collections are botanical books and prints. many – mostly Irish – canal
grouped according to plant laborers to diseases such as
families and habitats, allowing dysentery and cholera, but
visitors to learn about each q Illinois and when the Illinois and Michigan
species’ unique features and Michigan Canal (I&M) Canal opened in 1848, it
to compare related plants. National Heritage did indeed transform the area’s
The arboretum’s Daffodil economy. It also established
Glade is particularly stunning Corridor Chicago as the transportation
in spring. Its Schulenberg From Chicago’s south branch of center of the Midwest.
Prairie, radiant in summer, Chicago River to LaSalle-Peru. As the use of rail to transport
is a pioneering landscape Tel (815) 223-1851. See The History freight became increasingly
restoration begun in the early of Chicago: p17. ∑ canalcor.org popular, however, canal traffic
1960s by Ray Schulenberg. declined. Carrying waste away
The prairie is admired The first Europeans to explore from Chicago became the
throughout the Midwest as the Chicago region – Louis canal’s primary purpose, until
a fine re-creation of this now- Jolliet and Father Jacques the Sanitary and Ship Canal
endangered prairie that covered Marquette – urged, in their 1673 took over this function in 1914.
the region before settlement. expedition report, the building The I&M Canal, with its 15 locks,
The maples are dramatic in the of a canal to connect Lake was abandoned entirely in 1933
fall; the evergreen trees striking Michigan to the Des Plaines and when the Illinois Waterway
in winter. If you do not have Illinois rivers. They believed that replaced it as a connection
time to hike along any of the such a transportation link would between the Great Lakes and
Mississippi River.
Fifty years later, in 1984, the
canal was designated a national
heritage corridor. Today, with
almost 100 miles (160 km) of
multiuse trails running alongside
the canal, the canal route offers
abundant recreational opportun-
ities, from bird-watching to
biking, hiking, and canoeing.
The route passes through more
than 40 towns and cities, sites
of historic buildings and
fascinating museums.
A good place to begin your
exploration is the town of
Lockport, 30 miles (48 km)
southwest of Chicago. During
Lush trees reflected in one of Morton Arboretum’s several lakes the canal’s heyday, this town




120-121_EW_Chicago.indd 120 13/07/16 2:56 pm

F AR THER AFIELD  121


thrived as the center of the
boat-building and -repair
trades. The visitors’ center
(200 West 8th Street) in
Lockport’s historic Gaylord
Building, the oldest industrial
structure along the waterway,
offers maps and information.
Adjacent to the center is a
restored pioneer settlement,
its buildings characteristic
of those built during the
development of the canal.
Will County Historical
Society Museum is located in Interior of Hotel Florence, typical of the town’s Queen Anne-style elegance
Lockport’s scenic 1837 canal
headquarters building. Tour marshland in Chicago’s entire nation, ensued. The US
guides tell stories of the canal far south side, 12 miles government intervened,
and explain historic artifacts. (19 km) south of downtown sending in federal troops. The
Chicago. He hired architect workers lost the seven-week
w Pullman Historic Solon S. Beman and landscape strike, but Pullman’s experiment
was tainted with failure. He died
architect Nathan F. Barrett
District to plan the company town. three years later, in 1897, still
Most of the more than resentful. By 1907, all the houses
Bounded by 111th & 115th sts., Ellis &
Cottage Grove aves. q 95/Dan Ryan 1,700 row houses and in Pullman had been sold to
then bus 111. £ 111th St. (Electric apartment units were private buyers.
District line). n 11141 S Cottage constructed between Plans in 1960
Grove Ave. Tel (773) 785-8901. 1880 and 1885. to demolish the
Open 11am–3pm Tue–Sun. 8 May– Workers rented the area’s buildings and
Oct: 12:30pm, 1:30pm 1st Sun living quarters from create an industrial
of month; call (773) 785-8901. h Pullman, who park were defeated
∑ pullmanil.org expected to realize a by residents. The
6 per cent profit by district of Pullman
Pullman Historic District, collecting rent on all was designated a
one of Chicago’s best- the buildings, includ- national landmark
preserved 19th-century ing the church and in 1971. Today,
communities, is the site of a library. This was the many of the row
fascinating – if ultimately first development to Ornate west window of houses have been
unsuccessful – experiment. The offer the working class Greenstone Church restored and are
town, the first of its kind in the indoor plumbing, gas, individually owned.
US, was built by George M. and recreational facilities. The town is easily explored in
Pullman, founder of the luxury The experiment ended in an afternoon; maps are
rail-carriage manufacturer acrimony when Pullman laid off available at the visitor center.
Pullman Palace Car Company, workers and cut wages without Hotel Florence (11111
to house his employees. In lowering rents during the 1894 S Forestville Ave), named for
1879, Pullman purchased 6.25 depression. A huge strike, which Pullman’s favorite daughter,
sq miles (16 sq km) of eventually spread across the is a superb 1881 example of
Queen Anne style. The hotel
is now a small museum, and
is gradually undergoing an
extensive renovation.
The mansions lining 111th
and 112th streets were built
for Pullman executives; the
Pullman colors of maroon
and green frame the windows
and doors. The Greenstone
Church (1882) and the curved
Beman-designed Colonnade
Apartments and Town Houses
by Market Hall are also worth
a look. The Market Circle
apartments (1892) were
A building that once housed several Pullman Palace Car Company workers bachelor units.




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122  CHIC A GO AREA B Y AREA

THREE GUIDED WALKS

With a rich architectural history that Chicago luminaries as Marshall Field and
demands to be examined up close, Chicago Mies van der Rohe are laid to rest. The
is particularly rewarding to visitors exploring second walk, just to the north of the
on foot. Three guided walks, two of which city’s Downtown, explores Lincoln Park
are on the city’s Near North Side, and one itself and the neighborhood to the park’s
Downtown, are described here. The first, west. This three-hour walk can include visits
farther north in Lakeview, is a short urban to the new Chicago History Museum and
stroll that takes in the eclectic shops of to several gems within the park, such as
Belmont Avenue, the lively gay scene of Lincoln Park Zoo with its child-friendly
Boystown, with its rainbow-colored pylons working farm, the beautiful Lincoln Park
lining Halsted Street, and the American Conservatory, as well as the scenic path
baseball shrine that is Wrigley Field. Also along Lake Michigan.
here you’ll find the intriguing Alta Vista The third walk is a visual feast of outdoor
Terrace, a narrow street of 1904 row houses art and architecture with the skyline of
modeled after London’s Mayfair, and the the Loop readily displaying its treasures
fascinating Graceland Cemetery, where such in the background.
CHOOSING A WALK

The Three Walks
This map shows the location
of the three guided walks
in relation to the main
sightseeing areas of Chicago.
Lakeview Walk
(p123)


0 kilometers 2
0 miles 2

A Walk in
Lincoln Park
(pp124–5)
Key
Walk route Lake
Michigan

Near North
Side


A Walk in
Downtown
(pp126–7)
South Loop
& Near
South Side





Curious sea lion at Lincoln Park Zoo (see p124)




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THREE GUIDED W ALKS  123

A 90-Minute Walk in Lakeview

From gray concrete streets to the gentle green slopes of
Graceland Cemetery, this stroll through the north side of
Lakeview is an urban adventure that reveals the charms –
both historic and present-day – of one of Chicago’s liveliest
nooks. After taking in the sports-fanatic atmosphere of
baseball’s famous Wrigley Field and the colorful epicenter
of Chicago’s gay scene, meander your way past restaurants,
eclectic boutiques, and cultural landmarks, joining the 5 Lifesize statue of 6-year-old Inez Clark,
motley crowd of young and old. Graceland Cemetery

0 meters 400 Wrigleyville
5 GRACELAND 0 yards 400 Back on Halsted Street, take a left
CEMETERY
at Addison Street, and you’ll see
WEST IRVING PA RK RD Sheridan the legendary Wrigley Field 3
(see p116) in the distance. Built
in 1914, it’s one of the oldest
W SHERIDAN ROAD
4
ballparks in the US, and home of
“lovable losers,” haven’t won a
WEST GRACE STREET
6 N O RT H C L A RK S TR EE T N SEMINARY AVE WEST WAVELAND AVE HA L ST ED S T the Chicago Cubs who, dubbed
7 NORTH WAYNE AVENUE NORTH LAKEWOOD AVENUE MAGNOLIA AVENUE NORTH WILTON AVE World Series in over 100 years.
Go north on Sheffield Avenue,
NORTH SOUTHPORT AVENUE WEST EDDY ROAD 3 Addison N ORTH N O RTH BRO A DWAY S T R EE T Street. Here you will find an
then a left turn on Grace
architectural gem, the Alta Vista
WEST ADDISON STREET
Terrace District 4 (see p116).
NOR TH RACINE A VENUE
Head northwest up W. Irving
WEST C O R NE L IA R O AD
Park Road, to see the lush
WEST NEWPORT ROAD WEST ROSCOE RD ELAINE PL Graceland Cemetery
Victorian-style Graceland
Cemetery 5 (see p116),
N CLIFTON AVE NORTH SEMINARY AVENUE N KENMORE AVE NORTH SHEFFIELD AVE N O RT H C L AR K ST RE ET WEST BUCKINGHAM PL the final resting place of
some of Chicago’s finest.
WEST ALDINE AVE
Southport Avenue
1 2 WEST MELROSE ST From here, stroll west on
WEST BELMONT AVENUE
Belmont Irving Park Road to charming
Southport Avenue, with its pubs,
boutiques, and restaurants. At
Clark and Belmont/ Key 3745 N. South-port Avenue is
Boystown Walk Route the former silent movie house,
Turn right out of the Belmont the Mercury Theater 6, a 300-
station and you soon hit Ann café at 909 W. Belmont Avenue seat space hosting local and
Sather’s 1, a historic Swedish famous for its cinnamon rolls. touring productions. Just south
A few doors down is the lively of this, you’ll spot the old-time
intersection of N. Clark Street marquee of the Music Box
and Belmont Avenue – a great Theatre 7, built in 1929 and
spot for people-watching. still drawing crowds for obscure
Continue across N. Clark Street, arthouse films.
once an Indian trail that ran
200 miles (322 km) north to Tips for Walkers
Green Bay, Wisconsin, and
you’re in Boystown, the gay Starting point: Belmont El
pocket of Lakeview. At the station.
next corner is Halsted Street Length: 3.5 miles (5.5 km).
2, officially the country’s Getting there: Take the Purple
first designated gay (rush hours only), Brown or Red
neighborhood, with its pairs Line train to Belmont, or the No.
3 Wrigley Field, one of the oldest of tall, rainbow-ringed pylons 22 bus to Clark and Belmont.
ballparks in the US erected in 1999.
For keys to symbols see back flap
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124  CHIC A GO AREA B Y AREA

A Three-Hour Walk in
Lincoln Park

One of Chicago’s greatest treasures is its park system, and this
leisurely walk is a lovely way to explore one of the quiet open
spaces that lie within minutes of the skyscrapers of Downtown.
Lincoln Park covers more than 1.9 sq miles (4.9 sq km) along
Lake Michigan north of the Magnificent Mile, and offers
diversions for strollers of all ages, including the nation’s oldest
free public zoo. Visitors can also visit the Chicago History 4 South Pond, with paddleboats for rental
Museum and an infamous site in gangster lore. on fine days


an example of one of Chicago’s
many works of public art, 9
Augustus Saint-Gaudens’ WEST FULLERTON PARKWAY
1887 bronze of President 8
Abraham Lincoln 2, depicted
deep in thought. 7
W BELDEN AVENUE
Lincoln Park Zoo and Beyond
Returning toward the museum, N O R T H C L A R K A V E N U E
take the sidewalk path to the
right and under the LaSalle NORTH CLEVELAND AVENUE N O RTH LI NCOL N PARK W
Drive overpass, following the W WEBSTER AVENUE NORTH S T O C KTON D R IV E Lincoln
signs for the zoo. On a stretch of Park Zoo
green to the west, on 0 6
1 Front of the renovated Chicago Wednesday and Saturday
History Museum mornings from May to October, W DICKENS AVENUE N O RTH SEDG WICK STREET
the organic Green City Market N O R T H C A N N O N D R I V E
Chicago History Museum 3 has tempting displays of 5 L A K E S H O R E D R I V E
After expensive renovations, the fresh cheeses, breads, and
once-modest Chicago Historical produce. A few minutes’ walk WEST ARMITAGE AVENUE
Society reopened in late 2006 as farther up the path brings you N O R T H L I N C O L N A V E N U E
the sleek, airy, family-friendly to South Pond 4, a small haven
Chicago History Museum 1 (see for frogs, turtles, ducks, and 4 South
Pond
p76), bringing the city’s past to geese. At the north end is the N O RTH H U D S O N AV E NUE W WISCONSIN STREET
life with two floors of interactive Café Brauer 5, a handsome red-
exhibits. In the lobby a colorfully brick, Prairie Style structure that 3
painted 1978 Chevy lowrider bustles in summer. Stop for a
greets visitors; in the galleries beer or just to take in the fine
beyond are permanent exhibits views of the city skyline. Weather
such as historical dioramas, one permitting, paddle boats can
of the city’s first El cars, and also be hired from here. Just
family-friendly displays. From north of the café is the southern N O RTH S E D G W I C K S TRE E T N O R T H C L A R K A V E N U E
the museum, take the path entrance to the Lincoln Park w W EUGENIE ST N O RTH W E LL S S T R E E T
behind the building to admire Zoo 6 (see pp114–15), one of 2
q N LA SALLE DRIVE 1
W NOR TH A VE W NOR TH A VE
Sedgwick
the city’s top attractions.
Established in 1868, the zoo is
free and open daily, and despite
its modest size boasts more
than 1,000 animals. Take the
zoo’s north exit and you’re steps
away from the lush, green
Lincoln Park Conservatory 7,
7 Lincoln Park Conservatory, four glasshouses of tropical greenery where a path leads through four




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THREE GUIDED W ALKS  125


glass display houses of towering gunned down by thugs dressed
palms, cycads, ferns, mosses, as cops hired by Al Capone. The
and fragrant orchids. North and warehouse was torn down in
just west of the Conservatory 1967 but a central tree marks the
on Fullerton Parkway is another spot where the men were killed.
Chicago landmark, the lesser-
known Alfred Caldwell Lily Pool Second City and St. Michael’s
8, an intimate, serene garden Church
designed in the Prairie School Continuing south on Clark
style with layered stone ledges Avenue, bear right onto North
and a waterfall. 9 Peggy Notebaert Nature Museum , Wells Street (past Lincoln Ave.);
with child-friendly exhibits on the northwest corner is the
Piper’s Alley center q, home to
praying mantises feed at the one of the nation’s legendary
Istock Family Look-In Lab; and comedy theaters, Second City
observe 1,000 butterflies in the (see p169). Top comics such as
9 Judy Istock Butterfly Haven. This John Belushi, Tina Fey, Bill
WEST FULLERTON PARKWAY eco-friendly museum is “green” Murray, Gilda Radner, and Mike
8 from its solar rooftop panels and Myers got their start here, and
rooftop gardens to the native newcomers still perform the
7 prairie grasses that surround it. company’s signature blend
of sketches, music, and
W BELDEN AVENUE
The St. Valentine’s Day improvisational comedy
NORTH CLEVELAND AVENUE N O RTH LI NCOL N PARK W Just a few blocks away – but a Now head west on North
Massacre
six nights a week.
world apart from the serenity of
Avenue four blocks to Cleveland
W WEBSTER AVENUE NORTH S T O C KTON D R IV E Park Zoo the park – is the site of one of Street; on your right you will
Lincoln
the grisliest events in Chicago’s
N O RTH SEDG WICK STREET 0 6 history. Walk west on West Michael’s Church w (see p72),
see the majestic 1873 St.
N O R T H C L A R K A V E N U E
Fullerton Parkway to North
one of the city’s oldest and
W DICKENS AVENUE N O R T H C A N N O N D R I V E Clark Avenue Turning left here, grandest. The towering, airy
interior features stained glass
make your way to 2122 North
Clark Avenue 0, where
5
stands a vacant, fenced-in windows and five altars – one
of which is Romanesque and
WEST ARMITAGE AVENUE lawn with a few trees. You’ll made of silver, gold, and onyx.
find no marker here, but
N O RTH H U D S O N AV E NUE W WISCONSIN STREET South infamous spots in the city.
L A K E S H O R E D R I V E
this is one of the most
4
Pond
In a warehouse here on
N O R T H L I N C O L N A V E N U E
the morning of
Valentine’s Day 1929,
3
seven of George
“Bugs” Moran’s
men were
N O RTH S E D G W I C K S TRE E T N O R T H C L A R K A V E N U E w Interior of St Michael’s Church, with fine
w W EUGENIE ST N O RTH W E LL S S T R E E T stained glass windows
q N LA SALLE DRIVE 1 2 Tips for Walkers
Starting point: Chicago History
W NOR TH A VE W NOR TH A VE Museum.
Sedgwick Length: 3 miles (4.8 km).
Getting there: Take bus No. 22 or
36 to North Ave., or the Brown
Line El to Sedgwick and walk east
Stroll across Fullerton Parkway 5 mins to Clark Street.
to the Peggy Notebaert Nature 0 meters 300 Stopping off points: Café Brauer,
Museum 9, a contemporary 2021 N. Stockton Dr., has fast fare –
glass and stone structure 0 yards 300 burgers, salads, ice-cream, beer –
housing child-friendly exhibits at an outdoor café. North Pond
on regional plant and animal life. Café, 2610 N Cannon Dr., is a good
Visitors can build a dam at the Key place for brunch or lunch.
River Works display; watch Walk Route
For keys to symbols see back flap
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126  CHIC A GO AREA B Y AREA

A Three-Hour Walk Continue to walk north,
Downtown passing the Marquette
Building (see p45) on
your left, to The Four
Dozens of works by world-renowned artists are on public Seasons (1974) 6 by
display throughout Chicago’s Downtown. This walk Marc Chagall (1887–
explores a selection from this huge outdoor art gallery 1985), at First National
and the buildings in the area, many of which are themselves Plaza. This huge, four-
works of art. The spectacular backdrop that the Loop’s sided mosaic consists
of thousands of tiles in
commanding architecture provides ensures excellent more than 250 colors that
sights along the way. illustrate various Chicago
scenes. Across the street
is the ground-breaking
State. Continue north, bearing Inland Steel Building 7.
left at Jackson, to the Ralph Steel pilings were
Metcalfe Federal Building and driven 85 feet (26 m)
the stainless steel and aluminium down to the bedrock
sculpture The Town-Ho’s Story to support the
(1993) 4 by Frank Stella (b.1936). building. Follow 8 Miró’s Chicago
WEST WACKER DRIVE
WEST W ACKER DRIVE r
E SOUTH WATER STREET
E WACKER PLACE NORTH MICHIGAN AVE
N WELLS ST
Clark/ N DEARBORN ST STREET N STATE State/ EAST LAKE ST NORTH FIELD BLVD NORTH HARBOR DRIVE
Lake Lake N GARLAND CT
Lake N O R T H C O L U M B U S D R I V E
q w e t
NORTH STETSON AVENUE
NORTH LASALLE ST
WEST RANDOLPH ST
9 Randolph/ Millennium EAST RANDOLPH STREET
3 Buildings in the Loop with Grant Park N CLARK ST Washington Wabash
in the foreground 0
WEST WASHINGTON STREET
Washington/ 8 MAGGIE
South Michigan Avenue to Wells Madison/ MILLENNIUM DALEY
South Dearborn Street S DEARBORN Wabash PARK PARK
Start at the Adams CTA Station WEST MADISON STREET SOUTH STATE E MADISON STREET
1 and walk east on Adams SOUTH LASALLE STREET SOUTH CLARK STREET SOUTH MICHIGAN AVE
Street, turning right onto South 6 7
Michigan Avenue and past the WEST MONROE STREET E MONROE S WABASH AVENUE STREET EAST MONROE DRIVE
stately Art Institute of Chicago Monroe
(see p48–51). Lorado Taft’s (1860– SOUTH W ACKER DRIVE 1
1936) Fountain of the Great Lakes WEST ADAMS STREET STREET STREET BUTLER
FIELD
(1913) 2, with its five female Quincy Adams/
figures, is at the south end of the Jackson Wabash SOUTH COLUMBUS DRIVE
main building. One block farther WEST JACKSON BLVD 5 4 2 EAST JACKSON DRIVE SOUTH LAKE SHORE DRIVE
south is the main entrance to
Grant Park 3, from where there LaSalle/ GRANT
is a good view of the buildings Van Buren Library E VAN BUREN STREET PARK
along Michigan Avenue, WEST V AN BUREN ST 3 Van Buren
Street
including the Santa Fe Building
(see p47). Walk west along Van Dearborn Street to West Dearborn Street to Washington,
Buren Street, turning right at Randolph Street bearing left. On the left is Catalan
Cross Dearborn Street artist Joan Miró’s (1893–1983)
and enter the Chicago (1981) 8, a surreal
courtyard of the feminine figure made of plaster
Federal Center (see and bronze and studded with
p45) to see American colorful ceramic tiles. Just north
sculptor Alexander across the street in the Richard J.
Calder’s (1898–1976) Daley Plaza is an untitled
dramatic Flamingo sculpture by Pablo Picasso
(1974) 5. Retrace (1881–1973) 9. The piece
your steps to created a stir when first erected,
6 The Four Seasons by Marc Chagall Dearborn Street. as Chicagoans debated its
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THREE GUIDED W ALKS  127


merits. Daley Plaza is considered Atrium”. On its exterior is Tips for Walkers
to be the political center Freeform (1993) q, which
of Chicago. City Hall 0, with its Chicago sculptor Richard Starting point: Adams CTA
75-foot (23-m) Corinthian Hunt (b.1935) created to station, at the corner of Wabash
columns, can be seen at symbolize “a government Avenue and East Adams Street.
the corner of supporting individual Time: Three hours.
Washington and Clark. freedoms.” Walk east Getting there: Take the Brown,
Continue along on Randolph Street to Green, Orange, or Purple Line
CTA train to Adams Station.
Washington Street, the James R. Thompson Stopping-off point: Numerous
turning right onto Center (see p58) cafés and restaurants can be
LaSalle. On the and French Art found along the route, though
northwest corner of Brut artist Jean many may be open only during
Lasalle and Randolph Dubuffet’s (1901– weekday business hours. Sopraf-
is the Illinois State 1985) fiberglass fina Marketcaffe, at 10 North
Office Building. sculpture Monument Dearborn Street, serves Italian
Step inside to r Lantern on No. 35 East with Standing Beast fare, from biscotti to pizza. West
experience its “Story Wacker Drive (1984) w. Egg Cafe, at 66 East Washington
Street, offers breakfast and lunch
at modest prices.

WEST
Wacker Drive. At No. 35 r
WACKER DRIVE
(see p57) is the former Jewelers
WEST W ACKER DRIVE r Building, designed in 1926
E SOUTH WATER STREET
and one of the last skyscrapers
E WACKER PLACE
built in Chicago in the
N WELLS ST
Clark/ State/ EAST LAKE ST NORTH HARBOR DRIVE Beaux Arts style. Follow Wacker
N STATE
STREET
Lake Lake N GARLAND CT
Lake N O R T H C O L U M B U S D R I V E Drive east, turning right at
N DEARBORN ST
q w e t Michigan Avenue, then left at
NORTH MICHIGAN AVE
NORTH STETSON AVENUE
NORTH LASALLE ST
WEST RANDOLPH ST Randolph Street to Prudential
NORTH FIELD BLVD
9 Randolph/ Millennium EAST RANDOLPH STREET Plaza t, consisting of two
Washington Wabash buildings. The Prudential
0 Building, a towering limestone
N CLARK ST
WEST WASHINGTON STREET
Washington/ 8 MAGGIE and aluminum structure
Wells Madison/ MILLENNIUM DALEY built in 1952, was the first
Wabash PARK PARK skyscraper to be built in the
WEST MADISON STREET S DEARBORN SOUTH STATE E MADISON STREET
Loop since the 1930s. “Pru
Two,” with its chevron
7 top, suggests New York’s
6
WEST MONROE STREET E MONROE S WABASH AVENUE STREET EAST MONROE DRIVE Chrysler Building.
Monroe
0 meters 250
1
SOUTH CLARK STREET
SOUTH MICHIGAN AVE
SOUTH LASALLE STREET
WEST ADAMS STREET STREET STREET BUTLER 0 yards 250
FIELD
Quincy
Jackson Adams/ SOUTH COLUMBUS DRIVE
Wabash
5 4 2 SOUTH LAKE SHORE DRIVE
WEST JACKSON BLVD EAST JACKSON DRIVE
Key
SOUTH W ACKER DRIVE
LaSalle/ GRANT Walk route
Van Buren Library PARK
E VAN BUREN STREET
WEST V AN BUREN ST 3 Van Buren
Street
State Street to East
Randolph Street
One block east, on State Street,
is the elegant Chicago Theatre
e (see p56). It was dubbed “the
wonder theater of the world”
when it opened in 1921. Its
grand exterior features a
miniature replica of Paris’ Arc t The two Prudential buildings, left;
e Facade of the Chicago Theatre de Triomphe. Turn right at the AON Center, right
For keys to symbols see back flap
126-127_EW_Chicago.indd 127 13/07/16 3:00 pm

128-129_EW_Chicago.indd 128 13/07/16 2:56 pm

BEYOND


CHICAGO





Evanston 132–133

National Veterans Art
Museum 134
Baha’i House of Worship 134

Chicago Botanic Garden 134
Lake Forest 134–135
Lake Geneva 135
Galena 136–137









































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130  BEY OND CHIC A GO

Exploring Beyond Chicago

Visitors eager to discover more of Illinois won’t be disappointed by the rich
mix of historical sights, recreational activities, and picturesque countryside
Chicago’s environs have to offer. Excursions to the attractive North Shore
towns of Evanston, Wilmette, Glencoe, and Lake Forest will take you along
the shoreline of Lake Michigan, affording stunning views.
For those wishing to venture farther, the resort area of Lake Geneva
awaits just across the Wisconsin state line. The delightful, historic town
of Galena lies near the Iowa border, a three-and-half hour drive west of
Chicago. The drive to both leads through rural farmland dotted with small
towns and state parks. The typically flat Midwestern terrain gives way to
rolling hills just outside Galena.


Madison Milwaukee
Delavan
Monroe Brodhead
LAKE GENEVA
Shullsburg Kenosha
Hazel Green WISCONSIN Beloit Walworth
East Dubuque
South Beloit Antioch Zion Lake
Michigan
GALENA Harvard Fox Lake Round
Lena Pecatonica River McHenry Lake Beach Waukegan
Apple River Elizabeth Freeport Rockford Belvidere Woodstock Wauconda North Chicago

Marengo Crystal Lake Mundelein LAKE FOREST
Highland Park
Rock River CHICAGO
Byron BOTANIC GARDEN
Savanna Lanark Carpentersville
Mount Genoa Arlington BAHA’I HOUSE
Mount Morris Oregon Elgin Schaumburg Plaines Skokie OF WORSHIP
Heights
Des
Mississippi River Polo ILLINOIS De Kalb Sycamore St Charles Addison NATIONAL VETERANS
Carroll
EVANSTON
ART MUSEUM
Geneva
Wheaton CHICAGO
Dixon Oak
Clinton
Sterling Park
Morrison
Woodridge
Rock Falls Aurora Burbank
Rock River Amboy Bolingbrook Oak Lawn
Prophetstown
Galena’s Belvedere Mansion Moline Springfield
(see p136) Peoria Indianapolis
Key
Highway
Major road
Minor road
Major railroad
Minor railroad
State boundary
A picturesque circular barn near Highway 20, West Galena
Baha’i House of Worship, Wilmette, Illinois For keys to symbols see back flap



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BEY OND CHIC A GO  131

Sights at a Glance
1 Evanston pp132–3
2 National Veterans
Art Museum
3 Baha’i House of Worship
4 Chicago Botanic Garden
5 Lake Forest
6 Lake Geneva
7 Galena pp136–7



0 kilometers 40
Rustic Road No. 29, on the outskirts of Lake Geneva
0 miles 20
Madison Milwaukee
Delavan
Monroe Brodhead
LAKE GENEVA
Shullsburg Kenosha
Hazel Green WISCONSIN Beloit Walworth
East Dubuque
South Beloit Antioch Zion Lake
Michigan
GALENA Harvard Fox Lake Round
Lena Pecatonica River McHenry Lake Beach Waukegan
Apple River Elizabeth Freeport Rockford Belvidere Woodstock Wauconda North Chicago

Marengo Crystal Lake Mundelein LAKE FOREST
Highland Park
Rock River CHICAGO
Byron BOTANIC GARDEN
Savanna Lanark Carpentersville
Mount Genoa Arlington BAHA’I HOUSE
Heights
Mount Morris Oregon Elgin Schaumburg Plaines Skokie OF WORSHIP
Des
Mississippi River Polo ILLINOIS De Kalb Sycamore St Charles Addison NATIONAL VETERANS
Carroll
EVANSTON
ART MUSEUM
Geneva
Wheaton CHICAGO
Dixon Oak
Clinton
Sterling Park
Morrison
Woodridge
Rock Falls Aurora Burbank
Rock River Amboy Bolingbrook Oak Lawn
Prophetstown
Moline Springfield
Peoria
Indianapolis
Getting Around
Chicago has excellent Metra commuter rail links to
the northern suburbs. The Union Pacific/North line,
departing from the Ogilvie Transportation Center,
services Evanston, Wilmette, Glencoe, and Lake Forest,
with frequent trains during rush hour and every one to
three hours at other times. The CTA purple line also
services Evanston. You will need a car to reach Lake
Geneva and Galena. Highway I-94 leads north from Francis Stupey Log Cabin in Highland Park,
Chicago; I-90 is the western route. on Chicago’s North Shore




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132  BEY OND CHIC A GO

1 Evanston E Block Sculpture Garden
40 Arts Circle. Tel (847) 491-4000.
Evanston, on the shores of Lake Michigan, 14 miles (22 km) Open 10am–5pm Tue, Sat & Sun;
north of Chicago, offers stunning beaches, charming 10am–8pm Wed–Fri.
boutiques and restaurants, and exciting museums, art The Block Museum’s sculpture
galleries, and theater. Originally known as Ridgeville, it began garden showcases 20th-century
sculpture. Among the garden’s
as a community of farmers from New England, and Irish and treasures are two large, bronze
German immigrants. In 1850, a group of Chicago Methodists abstract sculptures by British
bought a large tract of lakefront land, opening Northwestern artist Barbara Hepworth
University five years later. Ridgeville changed its name to (1903–1975) and an intriguing
Evanston in 1857 to honor John Evans, one of the university’s movable bronze sculpture
by Spanish artist Joan Miró
founders. By the 1870s, wealthy Chicagoans, in search of (1893–1983).
cleaner neighborhoods, were moving to Evanston. Many of
their mansions still stand. E Mary and Leigh Block
Museum of Art
40 Arts Circle. Tel (847) 491-4000.
Open 10am–5pm Tue–Sun,
10am–8pm Wed & Fri. 7 8
call for details. Lectures, films,
concerts. ∑ blockmuseum.
northwestern.edu
Artwork from the 14th century
onward and thematic historical
displays are featured at this art
museum of Northwestern
University, one of the US’s top
university museums. Major
exhibits also often stop here.
P Grosse Point Light Station
Charles Gates Dawes House, overlooking Lake Michigan 2601 Sheridan Rd. Tel (847) 328-6961.
Closed hol weekends. & 8
Exploring Evanston Northwestern University. mandatory: Jun–Sep: 2, 3, 4pm Sat,
Many of Evanston’s attractions Sheppard sold the mansion in Sun. ∑ grossepointlighthouse.net
are concentrated in the historic 1909 to Charles Gates Dawes, This lighthouse was built in 1873
downtown around Grove Street who went on to become US in response to one of the worst
and Sherman Avenue, an area vice-president under Calvin maritime disasters on the Great
easily explored on foot. Other Coolidge. The restored Lakes – the 1860 sinking of the
interesting districts include those 25-room house, home to the paddle wheeler Lady Elgin, in
at Central Street, and at Chicago Evanston Historical Society, which nearly 300 people died.
Avenue and Dempster Street. showcases the period 1925–9. During the summer, visitors
The large lakefront university can climb to the top of the
campus, the buildings of which P Frances Willard House lighthouse for wonderful views
reflect widely varied architectural 1730 Chicago Ave. Tel (847) 328-7500. of the town and lake.
styles, provides greenspace ideal Open 1–4pm 1st & 3rd Sun of month A maritime museum is on
for strolling. Or you can saunter or by appt. Closed major hols. & 8 the lower floor. Plants native
along Forest Avenue to see the mandatory. = ∑ franceswillard to Illinois are grown in the
historic mansions built for house.org
Chicago’s wealthy. Pioneering suffragist and
Woman’s Christian Temp erance
P Charles Gates Dawes Union (WCTU) activist Frances
House and Evanston Willard lived here from 1865
History Center until her death in 1898.
225 Greenwood St. Tel (847) 475-3410. This quaint, Gothic Revival style
Open 1–4pm Thu–Sun. Closed major (see p28) house, built by Willard’s
public hols. & (children under 6 free). father in 1865, is now a museum
8 mandatory. 7 ∑ evanston devoted to Willard’s life and the
historycenter.org history of the WCTU. The world’s
This massive Chateauesque oldest voluntary, non-sectarian
mansion was designed in 1894 women’s organization, the WCTU
by Henry Edwards-Ficken for is best known for its campaign Grosse Point Light Station, guiding ships
Robert Sheppard, treasurer of against alcohol. since 1873




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VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Practical Information
n 1560 Sherman Ave.
Tel (847) 328-1500. _ Starlight
Concerts (Jun–Aug); Ethnic
Arts (Jul); Lakeshore Arts (Aug);
Jump & Verve Jazz Festival (Sep).
∑ cityofevanston.org.
Transport
q Davis. £ Davis (Union
Pacific/North line).
Interior of the Mitchell Museum of the American Indian
Wildflower Trail Garden, on are offered regularly. The center’s 10am–8pm Thu; noon–4pm Sun.
Closed major public hols, last two
the grounds of the station. annual spring art auction is a
great opportunity to acquire weeks Aug. & by donation. 7 8
= Lectures, concerts, films.
E Evanston Art Center work by Midwest artists. ∑ mitchellmuseum.org
2603 Sheridan Rd. Tel (847) 475- 5300. The lovely grounds of the center
Open 10am–9pm Mon–Thu; were designed by the Prairie The Mitchell Museum showcases
9am–4pm Fri & Sat; 1–4pm Sun. School-influenced landscape North American Indian cultures
Closed major public hols. & by architect Jens Jensen, who from prehistoric to contemporary
donation. 7 1st-floor gallery. 8 designed several parks in Chicago, times. More than 6,000 domestic
h Lectures, workshops. including Columbus Park and the objects, including pottery,
∑ evanstonartcenter.org conservatory in Garfield Park, baskets, clothing, and textiles,
Housed in a 1926 mansion, the which is on Chicago’s west side. are on display. The Mitchell is
gallery of this community art particularly rich in artifacts of
center exhibits regional E Mitchell Museum of the Indians of the Midwest.
contemporary artwork by both American Indian Temporary exhibitions at the
established and emerging artists. 3001 Central St. Tel (847) 475- museum highlight ancient and
Gallery talks by exhibiting artists 1030. Open 10am–5pm Tue–Sat; present-day Native crafts.
Evanston
1 Charles Gates Dawes House 5 Evanston Art Center 0 meters 800
2 Frances Willard House 6 Grosse Pointe Light Station 0 yards 800
3 Block Sculpture Garden 7 Mitchell Museum of the
4 Mary and Leigh Block American Indian
Museum of Art
Baha’i House Evanston
of Worship Art Center
Mitchell Museum
of the American
Indian C E N T R A L S T R E E T
Evanston – Chandler Central Light Station
BENNETT AVE
Central St Metra
Grosse Point
CENTRAL PARK AVE PAYNE STREET M C D A N I E L AV E N U E COLFAX STREET G R E E N B AY NOYES STREET Noyes ORR I N GTO N AV ENU E S H E R ID A N R OA D Northwestern
R I D G E A V E N U E
Park
L I NC O LN S TR EE T
GRANT STREET
University
MAPLE AVENUE
M c C O R M I C K B O U L E V A R D SIMPSON STREET R O A D Evanston – Foster SHERMAN AVENUE Frances Mary and Leigh Block
Museum of Art
FOSTER STREET
Block Sculpture
Garden
E M E R S O N S T R E E T
Willard
Elnora
Smith
House
Park
Park
C H U R C H S T R E E T
WESLEY AVE. Davis St Metra
AVE
DAVIS ST
DEWEY AVENUE DODGE AVENUE L AK E ST RE E T Davis CHICAGO AVENUE HINMAN AVENUE Centennial
F OREST
GROVE ST
Dawes
Park
Charles Gates
G RE E N WO OD STR E ET
R I D G E A V E
D E MPS TE R STREE T EIMWOOD AVE Dempster Dawes House
CHICAGO
For keys to symbols see back flap
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134  BEY OND CHIC A GO

2 National Veterans
Art Museum
4041 N Milwaukee Ave. Map 6 D1.
Tel (312) 326-0270. q Irving Park
(Blue Line) then bus 80. Open
10am–5pm Tue–Sat. Closed major
hols. & 7 8 (for groups). - =
The National Veterans Art
Museum is the only museum in
the world with a permanent
collection that focuses on the
subject of war from a personal
point of view. Bringing together
more than 700 works of art in
diverse media created by 140
artists who participated in
one of America’s most divisive Fountains and pools dot the serene grounds of the Chicago Botanic Gardens
wars, this collection presents
a humanist statement on Canadian architect Louis Bourgeois. habitats of flowers, vines, shrubs,
behalf of veterans of all wars. An entrance door is on each side. and trees. Opened in 1972, the
This adamantly apolitical Quotations from Baha’u’llah are Garden contains 2 million
museum began when two carved into the stone, one above specimens representing 8,000 plant
Chicago veterans, Ned each entrance and each of the nine families from around the world.
Broderick and Joe Fornelli, alcoves. Elaborate filigree-like The Gateway Visitor Center,
began collecting artworks carvings adorn the exterior. A near the entrance, leads to
created by fellow veterans. dome of quartz and white cement the main island, the site of the
The City of Chicago donated rises 135 ft (41 m) above the central majority of the themed gardens.
an abandoned warehouse auditorium, which can seat almost The English Walled Garden
and the museum opened 2,000 people. It is lovely to take a consists of a secluded enclosure
in its new home in 1996. stroll in the gardens. with six garden “rooms,” each. The
The belongings of prisoner- Heritage Garden is modeled after
of-war Major General John L. 4 Chicago Botanic Europe’s first botanical garden.
Borling, who lived in captivity Intoxicating scents of the Rose
in North Vietnam for seven Garden Garden’s 5,000 rose bushes
years, is documented in the 1000 Lake Cook Rd., Glencoe. accompany the colorful blooms.
display My Cup Runneth Over. Tel (847) 835-5440. £ Braeside; Unsurprisingly, the jewel of
In 2001, the museum dedicated Glencoe (Union Pacific/North line) the Waterfall Garden is a 45-ft
a permanent memorial called then bus 213 or trolley. Open Jun– (14 m) waterfall. Sansho-En, or
“Above and Beyond” honoring Sep: 7am–9pm daily, Oct–May: 8am– “garden of three islands,” reflects
all Americans killed in the sunset daily. Closed Dec 25. 7 8 the tranquil minimalism of
Vietnam War. - = h Lectures, exhibits. Japanese garden design.
∑ chicagobotanic.org The Gardens of the Great
3 Baha’i House of The Chicago Botanic Garden, 25 Basin include Lakeside
Gardens, Evening Island,
Worship miles (40 km) north of downtown and Water Gardens.
Chicago, is dazzling with its 20 The Garden’s three natural
100 Linden Ave., Wilmette. Tel (847)
733-3400. q Linden. Open Gardens themed gardens and three native habitat areas (an oak woodland,
6am–10pm daily; Visitors’ Center Jun– a prairie, and a riverscape)
Sep: 10am–8pm, Oct–May: offer wonderful walking trails
10am–5pm. Devotions: 9:15am & through secluded sections of
12:30pm. 7 h ∑ us.bahai.org the grounds.
The Baha’i House of Worship,
gleaming like a white beacon, is 5 Lake Forest
the North Shore’s most striking £ Lake Forest (Union Pacific/North
building. There are seven major line). @ 472. Deer Path Golf Course:
Baha’i houses of worship in the 500 W Deerpath Rd. Tel (847) 234-
world; this is the only major one 4282. ∑ lflbchamber.com
in North America.
Construction of the house, which Lake Forest is one of Chicago’s
began in 1920, wasn’t completed most affluent suburbs, about
until 1953. There are nine sides to The Baha’i House of Worship, with its 30 miles (48 km) north of
this building designed by French- beautifully filigreed dome Chicago’s Downtown.




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The town was established
in the 1850s by a group of
Presbyterians who planned
to build a college. The St. Louis
landscape architect hired
to plan the town took
advantage of the area’s
beautiful prairie lands, ravines,
and hills, designing streets
to follow the natural curves
of the landscape. Lady of the Lake, a reproduction of a Mississippi paddle wheeler
Presbyterian Lake Forest
College, established in 1857, 6 Lake Geneva skiing and snowmobiling are
has many grand, late-1800 n 201 Wrigley Dr, WI. Tel (262) 248- popular activities. However,
buildings. The Romanesque- 4416, 800-345-1020. Open 9am–5pm accommodations fill up quickly
style Hotchkiss Hall was Mon–Fri; 10am–4pm Sat & Sun. 8 in summer and traffic is heavy.
designed by Henry Ives 0 = ∑ lakegenevawi.com Lake Geneva has a rich
Cobb (see p28) in 1890 history. The Oneota tribes of the
and named after the Lake Geneva, 70 miles (113 km) now-extinct Hopewell Culture
town’s planner. north of Chicago in the state of Indians, an agricultural people,
The First Presbyterian Wisconsin, nestles on the shores lived in the area as long ago as
Church (700 N Sheridan Rd) of a spring-fed lake of the same 1000 BC. In 1836, the local
was designed by Charles Frost name. There is much to keep you Potawatomi tribe was evicted
in 1887. The church’s unusual occupied for a weekend in this from the area, and pioneer
design is an adaptation of picturesque resort town and its Christopher Payne built the first
the New England cottage surrounding rural communities. log cabin in town. The site is
style, known as Shingle style. Boating on the wide lake, hiking, marked with a plaque on Center
Market Square, in down- and ballooning are just a few of Street, north of White River.
town Lake Forest, is one of the possibilities. The town, laid out in 1837,
the first planned suburban Lake Geneva is also a was originally a sawmill town.
shopping centers in the shopper’s and diner’s paradise. Following the Civil War, it
US. Designed in 1916 by Many of the charming bou- became a resort for wealthy
Howard Van Doren Shaw, tiques and antique stores are in Chicagoans, who built their
this pleasant town square has turn-of-the-century buildings. homes on the lakefront.
a quaint English character. Several of the town’s restaurants, One of the best ways to see
The best way to experience particularly those along Wrigley these mansions is by boat.
Lake Forest is to drive on Drive, provide spectacular Geneva Lake Cruise Line’s fleet
meandering Sheridan Road. views of the lake. of ships includes replicas of a
Along the route are many In autumn, the countryside Southern paddle wheeler and a
beautiful homes on spacious, is ablaze with fall foliage. It is an turn-of-the-century lake steamer.
landscaped grounds. ideal backdrop to the 21-mile The Walworth II operates as a US
Golfers can take advantage (34-km) trail encircling the lake, mail boat, one of the last in
of Deer Path Golf Course, a trail that once connected service. A mail carrier delivers
while at Forest Park Beach, Indian camps. On the western mail during the tour.
beachgoers can enjoy the edge of town is a state- Geneva Lake Area Museum
cooling waters of Lake designated “Rustic Road,” an of History (255 Mill Street)
Michigan during the ideal route for a leisurely drive displays interesting historical
summer heat. through the country. In winter, photographs and artifacts.















Riviera Docks, departure point for Lake Geneva boat cruises




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136  BEY OND CHIC A GO

7 Galena

A visit to Galena, “the town that time forgot,” is like stepping
into a bygone era. More than 85 percent of this town, in Jo
Daviess County, is on the National Register of Historic Places.
Its architectural gems, museums, and unique landscape
make Galena a great weekend destination. As early as the
1600s, Indians were mining the area’s rich deposits of lead
and ore. In the 1820s, as prospectors flocked to Galena,
the town became one of the US’s most important mining
centers. By the mid-1800s, it was a major Mississippi River The old town hall, built in 1872, in historic
East Galena
port. But as rail displaced shipping as the mode of freight
transportation, the town went into decline. The expense Galena attorney and later US
of tearing down the old buildings ensured that its historic congressman Elihu Washburne
core remained intact. (1816–87). Washburne was a
comrade of Abraham Lincoln
and a strong supporter of the
P Belvedere Mansion career of Ulysses S. Grant. It was
1008 Park Ave. Tel (815) 777-0747. in the library of Washburne’s
Open 11am–3:30pm daily; home that Grant first heard the
11am–5pm Sat. Closed Nov– news that he had won the 1868
A trolley tour is a great way to Memorial Day. & 8 ∑ galena US presidential election.
explore Galena belvederemansion.com The restored interior of the
Built in 1857 for J. Russell Jones, house reflects Victorian middle-
Exploring Galena a steamship owner and US class elegance.
The best way to explore Galena ambassador to Belgium, the
is on foot or by trolley tour. Italianate-style Belvedere P Ulysses S. Grant Home
Downtown parking is limited; Mansion is the largest house 500 Bouthillier St. Tel (815) 777-3310.
it is best to park at the lot by in Galena. Open Apr–Oct: 9am–4:45pm Wed–
the visitors’ center at the old Completely restored to its Sun. Nov–Mar: 9am–4pm, Wed–Sun.
railroad depot. original condition, the 22 rooms Closed public hols. & 8
Galena has a number of contain Victorian furnishings. mandatory. 7 ∑ granthome.com
noteworthy historic churches. Pieces include furniture once This two-story, brick Italianate (see
The Union Baptist Church belonging to former US p28) house designed by William
(1854) features a Romanesque president Theo dore Roosevelt, Dennison was constructed in
Revival doorway, and the a gold-painted cabinet once 1860. It was given to returning
enchanting First Presbyterian owned by entertainer Liberace, Civil War hero General Ulysses S.
Church (1838) has a Georgian and green drapes from the film Grant by a group of prominent
spire. The 1838 Erban organ set of Gone with the Wind. Galena citizens in 1865.
is still played at the Gothic Even though Grant spent little
Revival-style (see p28) Grace P Washburne House time in the house after being
Episcopal Church. 908 Third St. Tel (815) 777-3310. elected US president in 1868, it
The Galena post office Open 10am–4pm Fri. & 8 has been restored to its 1870s
(1857–9) was originally the mandatory: on the hour and appearance and contains
Galena Customs House and is half-hour. 7 ∑ granthome.com furnishings used by the Grant
the second-oldest continuously A stunning example of Greek family. Costumed guides lead
operating post office in the US. Revival architecture, this house visitors through the house while
was built in 1843 for prominent telling Grant’s story.
n Old Train Depot
101 Bouthillier St. Tel (847) 464-2536.
Open Memorial Day weekend–Oct:
9am–5pm Mon–Thu; 9am–7pm Fri,
Sat; 10am–5pm Sun. Nov–Memorial
Day weekend: 9am–5pm Mon–Sat;
10am–4pm Sun. 7
Originally Galena’s station for
passenger rail service, it was
from here that former US
president Ulysses S. Grant set off
for war. The 1857 Italian ate (see
p28) building is now the Visitor
Information Center. The Old Illinois Central Railroad Depot now housing Galena’s visitors’ center




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VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Practical Information
n 101 Bouthillier St. Tel (877)
464-2536. 8 by trolley. _ Irish
Heritage (Mar), Galena Arts Festival
(Jul), Fall Harvest (Sep–Oct),
County Fair (Oct). ∑ galena.org
Galena seen from the pedestrian bridge Transport
Hwy 20. @ Greyhound bus.
P Dowling House writer Mark Twain, have stayed
220 Diagonal St. Tel (815) 777-1250. here. Abraham Lincoln made a
Open 11am–4pm daily. & speech from its balcony in 1856, Easter, Thanksgiving, Dec 24, 25, 31.
8 mandatory. and it was from the DeSoto House & (children under 10 free). =
∑ galenahistorymuseum.org
This 1826 example of vernacular Hotel that Ulysses S. Grant ran his
architecture is Galena’s oldest 1868 presidential campaign. This 1858 Italianate mansion,
house. Built of limestone, it designed by William Dennison,
originally served as a miner’s P Old Market House was built for merchant Daniel
trading post and rather crude 123 N Commerce St. Tel (815) 777- Barrows. It is now occupied
residence. Informative tour guides 2570. Open 9am–5pm daily. by a museum specializing in
recount the history of the house. Closed Thanksgiving, mid-Dec– the area’s history and houses
It has been restored to reflect the mid-Mar. & 8 mandatory. 7 over 10,000 artifacts, including
era of Galena’s early pioneers. The handsome Greek Revival- Civil War memorabilia.
style Market House was built by The creation of the stunning
P DeSoto House Hotel the City of Galena in 1846. geology of Jo Daviess
230 S Main St. Tel (815) 777-0090, One of the Midwest’s oldest County – rugged hills, rocky
(800) 343-6562. 7 0 h extant market houses, it was a bluffs, and riveting vistas – is
∑ desotohouse.com hive of activity until the early depicted in a large landform
This hotel was considered the 1900s. Farmers sold produce, city model, which shows how Ice
largest, most luxurious hotel west offices were on the second floor, Age glaciers detoured around
of New York City when it opened and the basement was a city jail. the land, sparing this hilly part
its doors in 1855. It was built by Today, an exhibition space has of Illinois.
Galena merchants in preparation displays of historical interest. A display on the Galena
for the boom that accompanied River tells the story of the Army
the 1854 arrival of Illinois Central E Galena History Museum Corps of Engineers’ building of
Railroad service in Galena. Many 211 S Bench St. Tel (815) 777-9129. the town’s flood dike and
famous Americans, including Open 9am–4:30pm daily. Closed Jan 1, massive gate.

Galena City Center
1 Old Train Depot
2 Belvedere Mansion FRANKLIN AVENUE BROADWAY
3 Washburne House ELK STREET
M EEKER S TREET
4 Ulysses S. Grant Home N HIGH STREET Dowling
House
5 DeSoto House Hotel N BENCH S TREET
HILL STREET
6 Galena History Museum S PROSPECT STREET
7 Dowling House N MAIN STRE E T N WATER ST
8 Old Market House Galena History COMMERCE STREET
Museum Old Market
House
DeSoto
GREEN STREET
House Hotel
Galena River
S B E NC H S TREET S M AI N STREET S WATER STREET G R E E N STREET Grant MONROE STREET
PA R K AV E N U E
Park
0 meters 300 Old Train 4 TH S T
Depot
EAST
0 yards 300 DUBUQUE Washburne BOGGESS STREET
PARK AVE House
BOUTHILLIER STREET
D E C AT U R S T R E E T
Home
Belvedere 3RD STREET Ulysses S. Grant
Mansion
ELIZABETH
For keys to symbols see back flap
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TRAVELERS’


NEEDS





Where to Stay 140–145

Where to Eat and Drink 146–157
Shops and Markets 158–163
Entertainment in Chicago 164–169

















































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140  TR A VELERS ’ NEEDS

WHERE TO STAY

Chicago has a room for every taste and cooking. Bed-and-breakfasts, often located in
budget. The top hotels are good value charming Victorian houses in residential areas,
by international standards. For those traveling are also a good option for visitors to Chicago.
on a budget, there are many inexpensive, The listings that follow on pages 142–5,
comfortable hotels and youth hostels will help you narrow down the numerous
in the city. Two-room suites are suitable choices. We have selected places that
for families, and some come with kitchenettes represent the best of their kind, in all
for guests who want to do their own price categories.

inquire about. Be sure you and Priceline.com offer a
understand the charges; some price comparison service, and
hotels offer these facilities for have good rates. Both charge a
free, other hotels will charge fee if you cancel for any reason.
handsomely for them.
The many conventions and
trade shows held in the city Hidden Costs
provide Chicago’s hotels with a Room rates are usually
major part of their business, so quoted assuming double
most hotels offer an array of occupancy; but always
business meeting rooms. check in advance because
some hotels quote single-
occupancy rates and charge
Hotel Rates and Discounts as much as $35 per night
Hotel prices in Chicago are for a second person.
competitive, but keep in mind Keep in mind, too, that a
Hotel Burnham’s lobby, modeled on the when booking that they charge room with a view will likely
1891 original (see p144) a steep 16.4 percent room tax. come at a premium.
Some establishments offer Convenience costs money.
Where to Look discounts to visitors attending a Parking at the hotel can lead to
Most of Chicago’s hotels are convention or major exhibition. an increase of as much as $50 a
clustered in two areas – They may also offer corporate day in the bill. There is also a
Downtown and the Near rates and discounts to persons steep premium charge for any
North Side. Downtown hotels in the military, senior citizens, drinks and snacks consumed
are particularly convenient teachers, automobile-club from the room’s mini-bar. A
for visitors interested in members, and frequent flyers. telephone call made from the
Chicago’s cultural sights such Business travelers often leave room will cost substantially
as the Art Institute of Chicago, the city on weekends, and more than one made from the
Museum Campus, and the hotels will offer special weekend pay phone in the hotel lobby.
theater district, as well as rates, so be sure to ask. Federal law states that hotels
those attending conventions With the exception of B&Bs, must inform guests of any
at McCormick Place. However, hotels in Chicago do not usually extra charges, but check the
this area can become quiet at include meals in the room rate. small print yourself while
night. By contrast, hotels on the Agencies such as Hotels.com making a reservation.
Near North Side, just north of
the Loop, are in one of the
liveliest areas of the city.
Contact the Illinois Bureau
of Tourism, the Visitor
Information Center or the
Chicago Convention and
Tourism Bureau for information.

Facilities
Air-conditioning and cable TV
are both standard in Chicago
hotels. Fax and photocopy
service, Wi-Fi, in-room speaker-
phones, exercise facilities, and a
swimming pool are amenities to The oppulent Regent Suite at The Langham, Chicago (see p144)
The Palmer House Hilton, one of the oldest and grandest hotels of Chicago



140-141_EW_Chicago.indd 140 13/07/16 2:56 pm

WHERE T O ST A Y  141


Hostel, a youthful spot located in
the Lincoln Park neighborhood.
Accommodations outside of
the central downtown area
also often offer better value
than downtown hotels, so
we’ve included a section of
recommended accommodations
from throughout the city and
surrounding area.
For the best of the best,
look out for hotels featuring
Lobby of Hotel Allegro (see p142), inspired by the building’s 1920s design the DK Choice symbol. These
establishments have been
How to Reserve Traveling with Children highlighted in recognition of an
If there is one secret to finding Children are welcome in all exceptional feature – a stunning
a good room, it is planning. Chicago hotels, and few charge location, notable architecture,
Reserve as far in advance as extra when one or two children ambience, or exceptional
possible. Hotels can fill up aged under 12 stay in their facilities, etc. The majority of
quickly when a convention is parent’s room. Ask about family these are very popular, so be
in town. Alternately, sites like rates when making reservations, sure to reserve ahead of time.
Hotels.com and Priceline.com and make sure the room is
offer great last-minute deals suitable. The hotel may offer a DIRECTORY
on unbooked rooms. room with two beds or a sofa
Reservations usually require that easily converts to a bed to Where to Look
a deposit by credit card. You accommodate children. Many Chicago Convention and
will be given a confirmation hotels will provide a cot for an Tourism Bureau
or reservation number when a additional $15 to $35 a night. ∑ choosechicago.com
room is booked. Always confirm Suite hotel rooms are also a
the reservation before arriving good option for familiies. Illinois Bureau of Tourism
at the hotel. Tel (312) 814-4732.
Those who have special Bed-and-Breakfasts ∑ enjoyillinois.com
requirements, such as elevators, Visitor Information Center
ice machines, and a quiet room A B&B can be a charming Tel (312) 744-2400.
away from busy streets, should alternative to a standard hotel. ∑ explorechicago.org
make these known when Primarily found in residential
booking a room. neighborhoods, such Reservation Agencies
Notify the hotel if you expect accommodations range from Priceline.com
to arrive later than 5pm, or rooms in Victorian homes to Tel (800) 774-2354.
you may lose your reservation. high-rise buildings. Some have ∑ priceline.com
To cancel the reservation, it private bathrooms. In general,
is advisable to record the B&Bs are reasonably priced. For Hotels.com
Tel (800) 246-8357.
cancelation number to avoid more information, get in touch ∑ hotels.com
being charged for the room with the Illinois Bed and
later. Most hotels do not charge Breakfast Association. Bed-and-Breakfasts
a cancelation fee if they are
given up to 24 or 48 hours’ prior Illinois Bed and Breakfast
notice. Without sufficient notice, Recommended Hotels Association
the room may be chargeable. The hotels listed in this guide Tel(618) 267-0156.
have been chosen to represent a ∑ illinoisbnb.com
wide variety of the type of
Travelers with Disabilities Recommended Hotels
accommodations available,
Hotels in the United States suitable to the needs of any Youth Hostels
are by law required to traveler. These include quaint Hostelling International
provide facilities for wheelchair- inns, trendy boutique hotels, Chicago
bound persons (some older budget chains, and hotels that 24 E Congress Pkwy, Chicago, IL
properties are exempted from are listed among the top five-star 60605. Tel (312) 360-0300.
this rule). Most establishments options in the world. For an ∑ hichicago.org
are happy to provide rooms inexpensive stay in the city,
and assistance to travelers one can head to the Hostelling Chicago Getaway Hostel
with disabilities. Persons International Chicago website, 616 W Arlington Pl, Chicago, IL
with visual impairments are to choose from a host of budget 60614. Tel (773) 929-5380.
∑ getawayhostel.com
allowed to bring guide dogs accommodations. Another
into hotels. option is the Chicago Getaway



140-141_EW_Chicago.indd 141 13/07/16 2:56 pm

142  TR A VELERS ’ NEEDS

Where to Stay

A pet-friendly Kimpton Group Price Guide
Boutique hotel, with swanky accom- Prices are based on one night’s stay in
Downtown modations, a sophisticated lounge, high season for a standard double room,
inclusive of service charges and taxes.
and a pool on the 17th floor.
Chicago Athletic Association $ up to $125
Hotel $$ Sofitel Chicago Water Tower $$ $125 to $200
12 S Michigan Ave., 60603 Place $$ $$$ over $200
Tel 312-940-3552 Map 4 D4 20 E Chestnut St., 60611 South Side
∑ chicagoathletichotel.com Tel 312-324-4000 Map 2 D4
Located in a former private club, ∑ sofitel-chicaco.com
the hotel features handsome Airy rooms with huge bathrooms DK Choice
rooms and suites, and unparalleled and great views. The restaurant,
views of Millennium Park from its Café des Architects, serves hot Benedictine B&B $$
rooftop restaurant, Cindy’s. croissants in the morning. 3111 S Aberdeen St., 60608
Tel 773-927-7424 Map 5 A4
Hotel Allegro $$ Hotel Chicago $$$ ∑ chicagomonk.org
171 W Randolph St., 60601 333 N Dearborn St., 60654 This Bridgeport monastery
Tel 312-236-0123 Map 3 C1 Tel 312-245-0333 Map 1 C5 offers two fully equipped, self-
∑ allegrochicago.com ∑thehotelchicago.com catering apartments that can
Comfort and upscale amenities Hotel Sax was rebranded in 2014 accommodate up to five guests
in the theater district with great as Hotel Chicago, a stylish, sleek each. Price includes free
access to local transportation. member of the Marriott’s breakfast and off-street parking.
Autograph Collection of hotels.
Hotel Monaco $$
225 N Wabash Ave., 60601 The James $$$ Welcome Inn Manor $$
Tel 312-960-8500 Map 4 D1 55 E Ontario, 60611 4563 S Michigan Ave., 60653
∑ monaco-chicago.com Tel 312-337-1000 Map 2 D4 Tel 312-493-2953
Bright, cheerful hotel, with a free ∑ jameshotels.com/chicago ∑ welcomeinnmanor.com
evening wine hour in the lobby. Sophisticated hotel, with an in- A luxuriously appointed B&B in
The in-house restaurant is a house spa, plus 24-hour room an 1893 mansion near Hyde Park.
popular lunch spot with locals. service from an acclaimed
Chicago steak house.
W Hotel City Center $$ Farther Afield
172 W Adams St., 60603 Old Town Chicago B&B $$$ Magnolia Studios Guest House $
Tel 312-332-1200 Map 3 C2 1442 N North Park Ave., 60610 5705 N Magnolia St., Andersonville,
∑ wchicagocitycenter.com Tel 312-440-9268 Map 1 B1 60660
Hip hotel with a clubby feel, ∑ oldtownchicago.com Tel 773-319-2331
popular with young people. This self-catering B&B has ∑ 5705Magnolia.com
splendid common spaces. Can Colonial home with two spacious
Hard Rock Hotel $$$ be rented by individual rooms or self-catering studios and one
230 N Michigan Ave., 60601 as a whole, for groups. apartment. Situated near a beach.
Tel 312-334-6767 Map 4 D1
∑ hardrockhotelchicago.com Talbott Hotel $$$ Majestic Hotel $
Music-themed hotel in a 1929 Art 20 E Delaware Pl., 60611 528 W Brompton Ave., Lakeview,
Deco building, with unique rooms. Tel 800-825-2688 Map 2 D3 60657
∑ talbotthotel.com Tel 773-404-3499
The Wit $$$ An elegant hotel with modern ∑ majestic-chicago.com
201 N State St., 60601 amenities. Guests get free access This vintage hotel with a beautiful
Tel 312-467-0200 Map 3 C1 to the nearby Equinox fitness club. lobby fireplace is located close to a
∑ thewithotel.com charming inlet of Lake Michigan.
Funky, well-located Downtown Whitehall Hotel $$$
hotel, of the Doubletree chain. It 105 E Delaware Pl., 60611
boasts an in-house screening Tel 312-944-6300 Map 2 D3
theater and a rooftop lounge. ∑ thewhitehallhotel.com
A classic boutique hotel, with tiny
Near North Side elevators, and Continental decor.
Located near the northern end
of Magnificent Mile.
Tremont Hotel $
100 E Chestnut St., 60611
Tel 312-751-1900 Map 2 D4 South Loop and Near
∑ tremontchicago.com South Side
European-style hotel, with Mike
Ditka’s steak house on site. Good Wyndham Blake Hotel $$
location for sightseeing. 500 S Dearborn St., 60605
Tel 312-986-1234 Map 3 C3
Hotel Palomar $$ ∑ hotelblake.com
505 N State St., 60654 Stylish, modern rooms with
Tel 312-755-9703 Map 1 C5 upscale amenities, located in the Hotel Monaco’s bright and cheerful lounge
∑ hotelpalomar-chicago.com historic Printer’s Row. has a crackling fire
142-145_EW_Chicago.indd 142 14/07/16 5:14 pm

WHERE T O ST A Y  143

City Scene Bed and
Breakfast $$
2101 N Clifton Ave., Lincoln
Park, 60614
Tel 773-549-1743
∑ cityscenebb.com
A garden-level brownstone
apartment with a full kitchen,
parlor, and a serene garden.
City Suites Hotel $$
933 W Belmont Ave., Lakeview,
60657
Tel 773-404-3400
∑ chicagocitysuites.com
Located just west of Boystown,
adjacent to the bustling Belmont
Red Line station. The decor here Well-appointed rooms at the House of Two Urns B&B
is a mix of vintage and modern Farther Afield
styles. Free breakfast. Hostelling International $
24 E Congress Pkwy, 60605
House of Two Urns B&B $$ Tel 312-360-0300 Map 4 D3 DK Choice
1239 N Greenview Ave., Wicker ∑ hichicago.org
Park, 60622 Bright, clean hostel with 24-hour Chicago Getaway Hostel $
Tel 773-235-1408 access, in a student-filled area. 616 W Arlington Pl., Lincoln
∑ twourns.com Park, 60614
A charming B&B with a lovely Travelodge Downtown Chicago $ Tel 773-929-5380
garden on a quiet side street. Good 65 E Harrison St., 60605 ∑ getawayhostel.com
proximity to the trendy Division Tel 312-427-8000 Map 4 D3 This bright, youthful hostel is
Avenue retail strip. Hot breakfasts. ∑ travelodgechicago.com located in a posh area close to
No-frills family-friendly lodging nightlife and Lake Michigan.
Wicker Park Inn B&B $$ near the Museum Campus. Free netbooks, printing,
1329 N Wicker Park Ave., Wicker breakfast, and even guitars
Park, 60614 Near North Side are available to guests.
Tel 773-486-2743 Outings, such as pub crawls,
∑ wickerparkinn.com Best Western River North $ are regularly scheduled.
Three apartments and four 125 W Ohio St., 60654
rooms in a trendy neighborhood Tel 312-467-0800 Map 2 D5
a short walk to picturesque ∑ rivernorthhotel.com Heart O’ Chicago Motel $
Wicker Park. Offers free parking and Wi-Fi, and 5990 N Ridge Ave., Lake Michigan,
an indoor pool. Suits families. 60660
Willows Hotel $$ Tel 773-271-9181
555 W Surf St., Lakeview, South Loop and ∑ heartochicago.com
60657 Neat but dated rooms, with
Tel 773-528-8400 Near South Side breakfast and free parking.
∑ willowshotelchicago.com
European-style decor in a stun- DK Choice Inn at Lincoln Park $
ning Art Nouveau-style building. 601 W Diversey Pkwy, Lincoln
Special offers and packages are Essex Inn Chicago $ Park, 60614
available seasonally. 800 S Michigan Ave., 60605 Tel 773-348-2810
Tel 312-939-2800 Map 4 D3 ∑ innlp.com
Beyond Chicago ∑ essexinn.com Modest, well-located option that
includes two suites with kitchens.
This family-friendly inn feels
Homestead Hotel $$ more upscale than most hotels A complimentary continental
1625 Hinman Ave., Evanston, 60201 in the same price range. The breakfast is available in the café.
Tel 847-475-3300 fourth-floor pool offers sweeping
∑ thehomestead.net views of Grant Park. The rooms
Quaint hotel with the decor and include small fridges and free
spirit of a European country inn. Wi-Fi. There is a nice French Historic
Studios with kitchenettes are restaurant on the premises, as Downtown
also available. well as a fitness center.
Palmer House Hilton $$
17 E Monroe St., 60603
Budget South Side Tel 312-726-7500 Map 3 C2
∑ palmerhousehiltonhotel.com
Downtown The Amber Inn $ An 1871 showcase hotel, with
the lobby restored to its former
3901 S Michigan Ave., 60653
Congress Hotel $ Tel 773-285-1000 glory. One of many perks, the
520 S Michigan Ave., 60605 ∑ amberinn2u.com hotel houses an outpost of Merz
Tel 312-427-3800 Map 4 D3 Comfortable, safe rooms at a Apothecary, a historic healthcare
∑ congressplazahotel.com fraction of the downtown price. store. A choice of dining options,
Historic hotel located across An added bonus is its soul food and a health club and spa
Grant Park, with signs of wear. restaurant, Pearl’s Place. complete the picture.
For more information on types of hotels see page 141
142-145_EW_Chicago.indd 143 24/08/2016 12:35

144  TR A VELERS ’ NEEDS

The Langham, Chicago $$$
DK Choice 330 N Wabash Ave., 60611
Hotel Burnham $$$ Tel 312-923-9988 Map 2 D5
1 W Washington St., 60602 ∑ langhamhotels.com/chicago
Tel 312-782-1111 Map 3 C1 Timeless British style in the iconic
∑ burnhamhotel.com IBM Building designed by Mies
Luxe comfort and top-notch van der Rohe. The award-winning
amenities characterize this spa is arguably the city’s best.
stand-out Kimpton hotel, set
in the historic, renovated The Peninsula $$$
Reliance building in the heart 108 E Superior St., 60611
of the Chicago Loop. Tel 312-337-2888 Map 2 D4
∑ chicago.peninsula.com
Classic decor and opulent rooms
Silversmith Hotel & Suites $$$ at what is one of the country’s
10 S Wabash, 60603 top-rated hotels.
Tel 312-372-7696 Map 4 D1
∑ silversmithchicago.com The Ritz-Carlton Chicago $$$
Stylish accommodations set in a Lobby of The Drake, grand and 160 E Pearson St., 60611
historic building designed by awe-inspiring Tel 312-266-1000 Map 2 D4
Burnham & Co, on Jeweler’s Row. ∑ fourseasons.com/chicagoRC
Renaissance Blackstone Classic elegance located on the
Chicago Hotel $$$ Magnificent Mile.
Near North Side 636 S Michigan Ave., 60605
The InterContinental $$ Tel 312-447-0955 Map 4 D3 Trump International Hotel
505 N Michigan Ave., 60611 ∑ blackstonerenaissance.com and Tower $$$
Tel 312-944-4100 Map 2 D5 Classic 1910 hotel featuring stylish, 401 N Wabash Ave., 60611
∑ icchicagohotel.com modern decor and an excellent Tel 312-588-8000 Map 2 D5
A 1929 Art Deco hotel featuring an on-site tapas restaurant. ∑ trumpchicagohotel.com
ornate pool once used by Johnny A notable addition to Chicago’s
Weissmuller of Tarzan fame. skyline, this hotel offers stellar
Beyond Chicago views and over-the-top luxury.
The Millennium Knickerbocker Carleton of Oak Park Hotel $$
Hotel $$ 1110 Pleasant St., Oak Park, 60302 South Loop and
163 E Walton Pl., 60611 Tel 708-848-5000 Near South Side
Tel 312-751-8100 Map 2 D3 ∑ carletonhotel.com
∑ millenniumhotels.com/chicago Boutique amenities and brightly
Jazz-age gem that offers good patterned rooms in this 19th- DK Choice
value for a premium location. century hotel. The on-site bar
and restaurant are popular. Wheeler Mansion $$$
Warwick Allerton Hotel $$ 2020 S Calumet Ave., 60605
701 N Michigan Ave., 60611 Hilton Orrington Hotel $$ Tel 312-945-2020 Map 6 D1
Tel 312-440-1500 Map 2 D4 1710 Orrington Ave., Evanston, ∑ wheelermansion.com
∑ warwickhotels.com/allerton- 60201 Gorgeously restored mansion
hotel-chicago/ Tel 847-866-8700 offering luxurious B&B accom-
Renovated vintage hotel on the ∑ hotelorrington.com modations close to McCormick
Mag Mile, with smallish rooms. Handsome rooms in a renovated Place Convention Center. Rich,
vintage building, near the over-sized rooms are tastefully
DK Choice Northwestern University campus. decorated with antiques and
European imports. Compli-
The Drake $$$ mentary Wi-Fi and parking.
140 E Walton Pl., 60611
Tel 312-787-2200 Map 2 D4 Luxury
∑ thedrakehotel.com Downtown Core Beyond Chicago
The most iconic of the classic
Chicago hotels, the elegant Fairmont $$$ Chestnut Mountain Resort $$
Drake is the go-to hotel for 200 N Columbus Dr., 60601 8700 W Chestnut Rd., Galena, 61036
special occasions, with a grand Tel 312-565-8000 Map 4 D1 Tel 815-777-1320
lobby that always inspires awe. ∑ themillenniumparkhotel.com ∑ chestnutmtn.com
High tea is served every day in Contemporary, upscale Offers serviceable lodge-type
the Palm Room. accommodations in close accommodations, with water-
proximity to Millennium Park slides for summer and 19 ski
and Michigan Avenue. runs for winter.
South Loop and Renaissance Chicago
Near South Side Near North Side North Shore $$
Four Seasons Hotel Chicago $$$ 933 Skokie Blvd., Northbrook, 60062
Chicago Hilton and Towers $$$ 120 E Delaware Pl., 60611 Tel 847-498-6500
720 S Michigan Ave., 60605 Tel 312-280-8800 Map 2 D3 ∑ marriot.com/CHINB
Tel 312-922-4400 Map 4 D3 ∑ fourseasons.com/chicagoFS Bright, stylish hotel offering
∑ hiltonchicagohotel.com Posh, family-friendly hotel with posh rooms. There is a cocktail
Enormous 1920s hotel with top- ice-cream sundae delivery and lounge, and a steak house for the
notch fitness facilities. pizza-making classes for teens. adults. Kids enjoy the pool.
Key to Price Guide see page 142
142-145_EW_Chicago.indd 144 24/08/2016 12:33

WHERE T O ST A Y  145

Eagle Ridge Resort and Spa $$$ Holiday Inn Chicago Farther Afield
444 Eagle Ridge Dr., Galena, 61036 Mart Plaza $$
Tel 815-777-5000 350 W Mart Dr., 60654 DK Choice
∑ eagleridge.com Tel 312-836-5000 Map 1 B5
Choose a room at the inn, or ∑ martplaza.com Best Western Hawthorne
rent an entire villa. Guests have a Located a little off the beaten Terrace $$
choice of four golf courses and path, this family chain offers 3434 N Broadway Ave.,
great spa services. premium downtown views. Lakeview, 60657
Tel 773-244-3434
Grand Geneva Resort Sheraton Hotel and Towers $$ ∑ hawthorneterrace.com
and Spa $$$ 301 E North Water St., 60611 This well-appointed hotel has
7036 Grand Geneva Way, Lake Tel 312-464-1000 Map 2 E5 a lovely terrace, and offers
Geneva, WI, 53147 ∑ sheratonchicago.com free breakfasts. Located in a
Tel 800-558-3417 A good choice for those on a bustling area full of shops
∑ grandgeneva.com budget, with stellar views and a and restaurants, it’s also an
Rooms and suites feature classic great workout area. easy walk to the lake and
lodge-style decor, but with Wrigley Field.
modern comforts. Golf, water Embassy Suites $$$
parks, tennis, horse riding, and a 600 N State St., 60610
variety of other activities. Tel 312-943-3800 Map 2 D4 Days Inn Lincoln Park North $$
∑ embassysuiteschicago.com 644 W Diversey Pkwy, Lincoln
Hilton Chicago O’Hare $$$ Standard chain-hotel decor, but all Park, 60614
O’ Hare International Airport, suite rooms with small kitchens, Tel 773-525-7010
Rosemont, 60666 plus free daily breakfast. ∑ daysinnchicago.net
Tel 773-686-8000 Clean, comfortable, reliable, and
∑ hilton.com/chicago_ohare Hilton Chicago/Magnificent Mile good-value hotel in Lincoln Park.
The only hotel located within Suites $$$
O’Hare International Airport, 198 E Delaware Pl., 60611 Beyond Chicago
with sound-proof windows and Tel 312-664-1100 Map 2 D3
blackout curtains. ∑ hilton.com Courtyard Chicago
Suites at this hotel are equipped Highland Park $$
Hyatt Lodge at McDonald’s with a microwave and refrigerator. 1505 Lake Cook Rd., Highland
Office Campus $$$ Park, 60035
2815 Jorie Blvd., Oak Brook, 60523 Tel 847-831-3388
Tel 630-568-1234 South Loop and ∑ marriot.com
∑ thelodge.hyatt.com Near South Side Free parking and shuttle service
Family-friendly accommodations make this bright, well-appointed
amid a peaceful landscape Best Western Grant Park $$ hotel appealing to visitors.
connected to the McDonalds’ 1100 S Michigan Ave., 60605
Hamburger University campus. Tel 312-922-2900 Map 4 D4 French Country Inn
∑ bwgrantparkhotel.com on the Lake $$
Hyatt Regency O’Hare $$$ The outdoor pool, easy access to W4190 West End Rd., Lake Geneva,
9300 Bryn Mawr Ave., Rosemont, 60018 the Museum Campus, and free WI, 53147
Tel 847-696-1234 parking make this hotel Tel 262-245-5220
∑ ohare.hyatt.com particularly good for families. ∑ frenchcountryinn.com
An upscale business travel and This waterfront inn has rooms with
conference hotel, this Hyatt is fireplaces and lakeside balconies.
located near the O’Hare airport. South Side
Chicago Lake Shore Hotel $ Stoney Creek Inn $$
4900 S Lake Shore Dr., 60615 940 Galena Square Dr., 61036
Tel 773-288-5800 Map 8 E1 Tel 815-777-2223
Modern ∑ chicagolakeshorehotel.com ∑ stoneycreekinn.com
Basic but serviceable hotel, Charming decor with stone
Downtown popular mainly due to the dearth fireplaces and timbered walls.
Hyatt Regency Chicago $$ of accommodations nearby. Rooms with bunk beds available.
151 E Wacker Dr., 60601
Tel 312-565-1234 Map 4 D1
∑chicagoregency.hyatt.com
Immaculately renovated, this
large hotel caters to conference,
convention, as well as tour groups.
North Side
Doubletree Hotel
Magnificent Mile $$
300 E Ohio Dr., 60611
Tel 312-787-6100 Map 2 E5
∑ doubletreemagmile.com
Reliable services and amenities,
as expected from the Hilton
family of hotels; and good value
for the location. Inside one of the well-furnished rooms of the Best Western Hawthorne Terrace
For more information on types of hotels see page 141

142-145_EW_Chicago.indd 145 14/07/16 5:14 pm

146  TR A VELERS ’ NEEDS

WHERE TO EAT AND DRINK

Chicago is a big city and many establishments, world, from Greek and Italian dishes to
from coffee shops to four-star restaurants, Vietnamese and Korean specialties. For those
ask big-city prices. However, with thousands visiting Chicago during the annual Taste of
of places to eat and drink in the city, Chicago festival (see p35), there will be the
competition between restaurants is fierce, opportunity to sample cuisine from dozens
and visitors can find great food at reasonable of Chicago’s restaurants. Those in our listings
prices. The city’s immigrant roots mean that that follow (pages 148–57), have been
tourists can sample dishes from around the selected as among the best Chicago offers.
Chicago’s Restaurants Alcohol
restaurants serve bread and
The plethora of places to eat butter it is always at no charge. The legal drinking age in
in Chicago represent the many Water glasses are filled with Chicago is 21 and is strictly
cultures that make up the city. (free) tap water, but bottled enforced. Alcohol is served
Some ethnic restaurants are water is also usually available. until 2am on most days of the
clustered together, such as Most Italian menus list pasta week. Some bars have late-
those in Chinatown (see p96) or as a first course before a main night licenses and are open
on Greek Town’s Halsted Street. course of meat or fish, but until 4am or 5am on Saturdays.
Italian eateries abound on Taylor many restaurants also treat On Sunday, alcohol is not
Street between Halsted and pasta as an entrée. served before 11am.
Western Avenues, and many Coffee and dessert conclude
authentic Mexican spots line the meal. It is common to have
18th Street in Pilsen. your coffee mug refilled until Hours and Prices
However, restaurants on the the servers are asked otherwise. The city opens early: coffee
city’s major streets offer a broad shops and diners as early
range of cuisines. Those in the as 6am. Coffee and a roll
Loop tend to cater to office Other Places to Eat costs about $3.50. A breakfast
workers, though many stay Delicatessens offering soups, of bacon and eggs costs
open till much later due to the salads, and sandwiches are about $5 in neighborhood
area’s theater district, while River mostly found in the Downtown diners and twice that much
North and Lincoln Park are area. Hot-dog stands and lunch in hotel restaurants.
home to many of the city’s counters are an inexpensive Lunch is offered between
premier restaurants. alternative to restaurants. 11am and 2pm. Most
Generally speaking, most Most malls have food courts restaurants open for dinner
establishments in Chicago selling a variety of dishes. Some at 5.30pm. Kitchens close
are wheelchair accessible (see don’t rise above fast-food fare, once business tapers, around
p173). However, it is best to but a few are excellent, notably 10pm on weekdays, later on
check beforehand. Foodlife at Water Tower Place, weekends. The most difficult
and Frontera Fresca at Macy’s. time to secure a table is from
Brewpubs are popular in 7.30pm to 9.30pm.
Restaurant Menus
Chicago. They serve beer Salads and appetizers
Most menus offer three courses: brewed on site, as well as pub generally cost between $5 and
appetizer (starter), entrée (main grub such as hamburgers or $9 each, entrées between $12
course), and dessert. When fish ‘n’ chips. and $30. Many restaurants offer
superb wines by the glass for
between $6 and $10.
Ethnic restaurants offer
good value for the money.
Mexican and Thai restaurants
are always a good bet, as
are the pizzerias and fast food
joints across the city. Indian
and Greek eateries are also
a good bargain.
Some restaurants let you
bring your own bottle (BYOB)
of wine, but may charge a
corkage fee to serve it.
Valet parking, a facility offered
by many restaurants these days,
Handsomely furnished bar at North Pond (see p156) costs between $6 and $12.




146-147_EW_Chicago.indd 146 13/07/16 3:00 pm
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WHERE T O EA T AND DRINK  147


Most visitors to Chicago spend
the bulk of their time in the
Downtown and River North
areas, where many sights and
attractions are located. The
majority of these listings focus
on those areas. However, many
fine restaurants are located
further off the beaten path.
These include local favorites as
well as renowned culinary
destinations. Whether your
travels bring you farther afield
Gorge on top-notch Italian fare at Café Spiaggia (see p150) or you are seeking out a culinary
adventure, there are enough
Paying and Tipping Children
options here for everyone.
Nearly all restaurants accept Most restaurants in the city are The listings are organized by
major credit cards. Traveler’s happy to serve well-behaved price and location and divided
checks are accepted with children. Many are particularly into different categories to help
appropriate identification. kid-friendly, supplying high users make an informed
Personal checks are not chairs and offering children’s decision. Categories such as
welcome (see p168). portions or menus. However, Mexican, Sushi, and Pizzeria are
A sales tax of 9.25 per cent you may feel uncomfortable self-explanatory. Fine Dining
will be added to meal checks bringing children to some of indicates upscale restaurants
in downtown Chicago; 8.25 the more romantic or high- that use the highest-quality
per cent in surrounding price spots. In general, Greek, ingredients and preparations.
areas. Diners are expected to Mexican, and chain restaurants The Mediterranean category
tip servers 15 per cent for are more family-oriented. encompasses Greece and the
average service, 18 to 20 per Children may accompany Middle East. Brunch restaurants
cent for excellent service. adults to taverns and pubs if specialize in breakfast and lunch,
Calculate the tip before tax. food is ordered. and often close in the early
The gratuity is usually added afternoon. Family restaurants
to the check for parties of offer child-friendly environments
six or more. Recommended and a menu most likely to
Restaurants
An especially helpful wine appeal to diners of all ages. The
steward may be tipped $2 or The restaurants featured Fast Food category indicates a
$3. There is no need to tip the in the pages that follow place to get a quick, no-frills
host or hostess, nor will represent the diversity of meal for cheap, often “to go.”
slipping him or her money Chicago’s culinary offerings: Restaurants marked DK Choice
help you get a better table from favored neighborhood are extra special. We consider
or position on the waiting list. diners, to iconic Chicago them to have historical charm,
institutions, to Michelin-starred especially high standards, or an
fine dining, these choices above average location. These
Dress Codes
showcase the best places are usually very popular, so
Only the most upscale, high- the city has to offer. reserve a table ahead of time.
end restaurants expect men
to wear jackets and ties, or
women to be dressed-up.
At trendier spots, diners
may be expected to be
fashionably attired. Inquire
when making reservations.
Reservations
Try to make a reservation at
any restaurant unless it’s a fast-
food joint. If booking more
than a day in advance, confirm
the booking on the day of
the reservation. Some
restaurants will not accept
reservations for parties of
fewer than six. Goose Island Brewery, brewing beer on the premises (see p153)




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148  TR A VELERS ’ NEEDS

Where to Eat and Drink


Downtown DK Choice Price Guide
Prices are based on a three-course meal
Pastoral $ per person, with a half-bottle of house
Artist’s Café $ Deli Map 4 D1 wine, including tax and service.
Diner Map 4 D2 53 E Lake St., 60601 $ up to $40
412 S Michigan Ave., 60605 Tel 312-658-1250 $$ $40 to $75
Tel 312-939-7855 A cheese and wine shop turned $$$ over $75
Serves standard comfort food deli turned wine bar, Pastoral is
in a vintage space opposite the a great place to pick up upscale Aria $$
Art Institute. In the summer, the picnic fare for Millennium Park International Map 4 D1
outdoor patio is an ideal perch concerts. Prepared baskets 200 N Columbus Dr., 60601
for people-watching. include a baguette and an Tel 312-444-9494
assortment of olives, cheese, Sleek, upscale restaurant that
Cafecito $ and salami. They also offer offers a creative menu featuring
Fast Food Map 4 D2 sandwiches to go and a limited local produce. The bar menu
26 E Congress Pkwy, 60602 dine-in menu. includes sushi and sliders.
Tel 312-922-2233
The extensive menu of Cuban- Atwood Café $$
style pressed sandwiches is Pizano’s Pizza $ Café Map 3 C1
popular with South Loop locals. Pizzeria Map 4 D1 1 W Washington St., 60602
Expect slow service and long 61 E Madison St., 60603 Tel 312-368-1900
lines during lunch. Tel 312-236-1777 Stylish Atwood is ideally
Good-quality thin-crust and situated for lunch or dinner
Frontera Fresco $ Chicago-style pizzas in a sports- while shopping on State Street.
Mexican Map 3 C1 themed venue with televisions Their delicious chicken pot pies
111 N State St., 60602 so dinners can catch the game. are the ultimate cold-weather
Tel 312-781-2955 Closed Sun comfort food.
Mexican street food is the Plymouth Pub $
focus of this fast-food chain by Pub Map 3 C2
Frontera Grill’s Rick Bayless. On 327 S Plymouth Ct, 60604 DK Choice
the seventh floor of Macy’s, it is Tel 312-362-1212 Closed Sun The Gage $$
a good choice for a quick lunch Located near the financial district, Pub Map 4 D2
while shopping. the Plymouth is most notable for 24 S Michigan Ave., 60603
its rooftop open-air sports bar. Tel 312-372-4243
Heaven on Seven $ The food – mostly pub fare – is The menu at this upscale tavern
Southern Map 4 D1 good value, considering the offers creative, well-executed
111 N Wabash Ave., 60602 Downtown location. versions of classic comfort food,
Tel 312-263-6443 Closed Sun such as an award-winning house
Jimmy Bannos’ original New Acanto $$ poutine that marries smoked
Orleans restaurant, featuring Italian Map 4 D2 pork confit, pickled onions,
po’boys, jambalaya, and the like. 18 S Michigan Ave., 60603 cheese curds, and French fries
Tel 312-578-0763 into a scrumptious goop. Great
Miller’s Pub $ Sophisticated Italian cuisine that location near Millennium Park.
Pub Map 3 C2 retains a traditional homemade
134 S Wabash Ave., 60603 quality. Set in an inviting, well-
Tel 312-263-4988 presented yet relaxed dining Italian Village $$
Hearty fare such as burgers and room with outdoor seating area. Italian Map 3 C2
steaks in a classic pub ambience. 71 W Monroe St., 60603
Especially popular with the after- Tel 312-332-7005
work crowd. Laying claim to the title of
Chicago’s oldest restaurant,
Native Foods Café $ this Loop mainstay consists
Vegetarian Map 3 C2 of three Italian restaurants
218 S Clark St., 60604 over three floors. The Village,
Tel 312-332-6332 on the top floor, is charming,
The all-vegan wraps, salads, with kitschy decor and
and bowls at this California- a menu of comforting
based chain offer health- Italian standards.
minded diners a welcome
reprieve from the fast-food Lockwood $$
chains in the Loop. American Map 3 C2
17 E Monroe St., 60603
Park Grill $ Tel 312-917-3404
Family Map 4 D1 Located in the historic Palmer
11 N Michigan Ave., 60602 House hotel, Lockwood offers
Tel 312-521-7275 eclectic American fare, made
Lots of outdoor seating with with fresh, locally sourced
great views to while away a produce. Afternoon tea is also
summer day. The menu lists a Sample a variety of fine wines and cheeses available, with reservations to be
number of American favorites. at Pastoral made 24 hours in advance.
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