Monuments of the 1857 Uprising ❮❮ 49
St James’ Church
6
This beautiful Colonial-era
church holds a number of memo-
rials to British civilians killed in Delhi
during the 1857 Uprising. It also con-
tains a memorial to the Reverend
Midgeley John Jennings, then
cha plain of Delhi, whose rather high-
handed Christian evangelizing did
much to enflame local religious
sensibilities, and who was killed in
the Red Fort during the first few
hours of the revolt (see p85).
Magazine
7
MAP H2 • Sham Nath Marg
• Kashmiri Gate Metro
Now marooned on a traffic island,
this small British magazine was at
the heart of the first day of fighting in
Delhi. Sur rounded by enemy Indian
sepoys, the British troops stationed The Lal Darwaza or Bloody Gate
inside the magazine decided to blow
Lal Darwaza
it up rather than allow its stock of 9
arms and ammunition to fall into MAP H6 • Mathura Road
Indian hands. The explo sion killed • Pragati Maidan Metro
around 400 sepoys and onlook ers. The red sandstone Lal Darwaza (also
known as the Khooni Darwaza, or
Kashmiri Gate
8 Bloody Gate) marks the site of one
of the most notorious episodes of the
MAP G2 • Sham Nath Marg
• Kashmiri Gate Metro uprising, when British officer William
Now dwarfed by the vast new Hodson sum marily executed Mirza
Kashmiri Gate Metro, this modest Mughal, Kizr Sultan and Abu Bakr,
little Mughal-era gateway witnessed sons and grandson, respectively, of
the most bitter fighting of the entire the last Mughal emperor (see p43).
uprising, when British troops
Nicholson’s Cemetery
stormed the gate in order to force 0
a route into the rebel-held city. A Tucked away in Old Delhi, this
plaque at the rear commemorates atmospheric and rambling Colonial-
those who were killed in the assault. era cemetery is a haven from the
chaotic hustle and bustle of the old
1.5 km 0 metres 800 city. Beautifully restored in 2006, it
Civil Lines 0 yards 800 is the final resting place of hundreds
RANI JHAN S I RD ALIP U RING ROAD of India’s early European inhab itants.
Of its many graves, monuments and
tombs, the most famous is that of
SAHAI MG
NITYANAND MARG LALA HARDEV Brigadier-General John Nicholson
Tis Hazari
(1822–57), a prominent British army
Kashmiri
RAJPUR ROAD
Gate commander and one of the key
NICHOLSON ROAD figures in the history of the 1857
ZORAWAR SIN GH MARG
RAJ N I WAS MARG R ROAD SHAMNATH MARG
ROAD HAMILTON ROAD Uprising – he is best known for
Old Delhi planning and leading the final British
N
SHYAMA PRASAD MUKHERJI MARG
assault on Delhi. Nicholson was
Sadar Bazaar AYA BAZAAR Chandni killed in September 1857 during
Chowk
the bitter fighting that took place
CHANDNI CHOWK
6 km for the recapture of the city (see p88).
AZAD MARKET QUTAB RD
048-049_Top_10_Delhi.indd 49 5/25/17 9:47 AM
50 ❯❯ The Top 10 of Everything
Cities of Delhi, Old
and New
Lal Kot and Qila
0 km 2 2
Old Delhi Rai Pithora
0 miles 2
OLD The first of Delhi’s traditional seven
DELHI
New Delhi cities, Lal Kot was established by a
Rajput clan, the Tomars, in 1060. A
century later, they became vassals of
NEW the Chauhans, who extended Lal Kot
DELHI INDIA
GATE and renamed it Qila Rai Pithora. Both
settle ments were largely buried under
CHANAKYAPURI Noida the Qutb Minar complex (see pp24-5).
Hazrat 5 km
Yamuna River
Nizamuddin
Siri
3
AUROBINDO MARG KAILASH MATHURA ROAD The second city of Delhi, Siri was
RING ROAD
MAP V2
RING ROAD
Okhla
built during the reign of Alauddin
ARU NA ASAF ALI MG MEHRAULI OUTER RING ROAD Khilji (see p43). These days little
remains of it, bar ring a few sections
of the walls. More impres sive is the
water tank Alauddin built nearby at
Hauz Khas (see p100) to supply water
Gurugram
MEHRAULI - BADARPUR RD
20 km to Siri. It was later expanded by
Feroz Shah Tughlaq (r. 1351–88).
Indraprastha
1 Tuqhlaqabad
The legendary city of
Built during the reign of
Indraprastha, home of the Pandava 4
brothers of the epic Mahabharata, is Ghiyasuddin Tughlaq (r. 1320–24),
said to have stood on the site that Tuqhlaqabad, the third city of Delhi,
is now occupied by the Purana Qila. was quickly aban doned. The city’s
Conclusive evidence is sadly lack ing, most impressive features are
although finds have been unearthed the mas sive fortified citadel and
here dat ing to the 3rd century BC , and ramparts, stretching for over 6 km
an ancient village stood here until (4 miles), and the distinctive tomb
the early 20th century. Today this is of Ghiyasuddin himself. A smaller
home to one of the oldest forts in subsidiary fortress, known as
Delhi and is a great place to visit. Adilabad, stands nearby (see p101).
The ancient ruined citadel and ramparts of Tuqhlaqabad
050-051_Top_10_Delhi.indd 50 5/25/17 9:50 AM
Cities of Delhi, Old and New ❮❮ 51
The imposing buildings
of the Central Secretariat
in New Delhi
New Delhi
Jahanpanah
5 9
Delhi’s fourth city,
Built in 1911–1931, the city
Jahanpanah, was built by of New Delhi was an attempt by
Muhammad bin Tughlaq (see p43) the British to assert their Imperial
shortly before the eccentric ruler credentials, featur ing showpiece
briefly aban doned Delhi for the architectural landmarks including
city of Daulatabad. Two important the Secretariat Buildings and the
monuments survive here: the Rashtrapati Bhavan (see p21). Edwin
Bijay Mandal, which is thought to Lutyens was asked to create a city
be Tughlaq’s palace, as well as the that would rival the great cities of the
Begumpuri Mosque (see p100). Mughals and the Delhi sultans and
legitimize Britain’s increasingly
Ferozabad
6 shaky hold on the country.
Constructed by Feroz Shah
Satellite Cities
Tughlaq, Ferozabad was the fifth 0
city of Delhi. Today, the prin cipal Thanks to the metro, Delhi’s
surviving struc ture is the walled satellite towns have become more
palace known as Feroz Shah Kotla accessible and are attracting corpo-
(see p88), its crum bling remains rations and wealthy residents. To
topped by one of the city’s two the south, Gurugram (formerly
Ashokan pillars (see p88). Gurgaon) is a city of gleaming high-
rises, many the head quarters of
Purana Qila
7 IT companies. Noida in the east, is
another shiny steel-and-glass IT hub.
Built on the fabled site of
Indraprastha, Purana Qila – the
sixth city of Delhi – was begun by the
second Mughal emperor Humayun
(see pp18–9) and com pleted by his
great rival Sher Shah Suri (see p43).
Following Suri’s death, Humayun
reclaimed the Purana Qila, but died
within a year after falling down a
steep flight of steps (see p93).
Shahjahanabad
8
Begun by Shah Jahan in 1638,
Shahjahanabad (Old Delhi) was the
last of Delhi’s so-called seven cities.
It was intended to provide North
India with a capital to replace Agra. The satellite town of Gurugram
050-051_Top_10_Delhi.indd 51 5/25/17 9:50 AM
52 ❯❯ The Top 10 of Everything
Museums and Galleries
National
0 km 1 PANCHKUIAN 4
Philatelic
RD
Shivaji
0 miles 1 Stadium SINGH MG Rajiv Mandi ZAFAR MARG BAHADUR S HAH RING ROAD Museum
Chowk
BABA KHARAK
VANDE MATARAM MG PARK ST TALKATORA GANDHI MG House TILAK MARG Pragati Heaven for stamp
FEROZ SHAH RD
enthusiasts, the National
KASTURBA
Maidan
ASHOKA RD
ROAD
Central
a copy of every Indian
Secretariat JANPATH Philatelic Museum holds
RAJPATH
stamp produced since
Udyog
SARDAR PATEL Bhawan AKBAR ROAD Khan Independence (around
MOTHER TER E S A C RESCE NT
1,700 issues), as well as
MARG
MATHURA ROAD
MOTILAL NEHRU MG
PRITHVIRAJ RD Market an interesting selection of
international stamps and
PANCHSHEEL MG K AMAL ATATURK
SHANTI PATH VINAY MA RG Lok Kalyan AUROBINDO Jor Bagh MARG SHASTRI RO A D LAL BAHAD U R MATHURA RD of a mid-19th-century
10 km MARG the personal belongings
Marg
DR ZAKIR HUSSAIN MG
postman (see p80).
Crafts Museum
5
LODI ROAD BHISHAM PITAMAH
This is another of
National Gallery of
1 MARG Delhi’s must-see cultural attractions,
Modern Art (NGMA)
showcasing a variety of artifacts
Located in a purpose-built structure, inspired by the country’s indige nous
the National Gallery of Modern Art folk-art traditions. Exhibits include
houses works dating from 1857 to detailed ivory carvings, as well as a
the present. Among them are a good vast colle ction of textiles and fabrics
selec tion of miniatures, East India and Hindu bronzes, while outside in
Company Art and works by classic the grounds you can see a set of tra-
Orientalist artists such as Thomas d itional buildings from all around
Daniell, as well as a collection of India (see pp28–9).
works by the eclectic Bengali artist
National Gandhi
Nandalal Bose (see p80). 6
Museum
National Museum
2 The city’s second Gandhi museum is
The National Museum is an
close to Raj Ghat where the body of
obligatory stop on any tour of Delhi’s Father of the Nation was cre mated.
museums. It has a superb array Exhibits on display include Gandhi’s
of exhibits covering every epoch in memorabilia and that of his wife,
the country’s history, ranging from plus six telephones on which visitors
priceless Harappan artifacts through can listen to his famous speeches
to Chola bronzes and Mughal in Hindi and English (see p88).
miniatures (see pp32–5).
National Rail Museum
National Rail
3
Museum
India’s love affair with the
railway is cele brated in this fine
museum containing assorted
antique steam engines and
opulent carriages, including
those once belonging
to the maharajas of
Mysore and Baroda,
and the Prince of
Wales (see p95).
052-053_Top_10_Delhi.indd 52 5/25/17 9:47 AM
Museums and Galleries ❮❮ 53
Gandhi Smriti, where Gandhi spent the last days of his life
Sulabh International
7 Mahatma’s personal belongings,
Museum of Toilets
includ ing the watch he was
MAP A5 • Mahavir Enclave, wear ing when he was assas
Palam Dabri Marg • 2503 inated, which stopped at the
1518 • Uttam Nagar East moment of his death (see p79).
Metro • Open 10am–5pm
Indira Gandhi
Mon–Sat • www.sulabh 0
toiletmuseum.org Memorial Museum
Although this museum may This museum is the former
sound like a joke, it has quite home of Prime Minister
a serious purpose, being part Indira Gandhi (1917–84),
of the neoGandhian Sulabh who was assassinated in the
International Movement, garden here by two of her
which aims to pro mote public Sikh bodyguards. The
hygiene, with many displays absorbing exhibits include
on lavatorial habits. Sulabh personal belong ings and
photos, plus a sec tion
Jawaharlal Nehru
8 International devoted to her son Rajiv
Museum of
Memorial
(1944–91), including the
Museum Toilets shoes he was wear ing
Teen Murti House, formerly called when he was killed by Tamil
Flagstaff House, was built in 1930 as separatists in 1991 (see p78).
the residence of the British military
commanderinchief and later
became home to India’s first Prime
Minister Jawaharlal Nehru (1889–
1964). There’s a library, and a few
photo graphs and news paper cuttings
on display, but the main attrac tion is
the house itself, including rooms left
exactly as they were when Nehru
lived here (see p80).
Gandhi Smriti
9
Formerly known as Birla
House, this NeoClassical man sion
is where Gandhi (1869–1948) spent
the last 144 days of his life. Displays
include a touch ing collection of the Exhibits at Indira Gandhi Memorial Museum
052-053_Top_10_Delhi.indd 53 5/25/17 9:47 AM
54 ❯❯ The Top 10 of Everything
Places of Worship
The Baha’i Temple, popularly known as the Lotus Temple
Gurudwara Bangla
Baha’i Temple
1 3
Sahib
India’s answer to the Sydney
Opera House, this remark able Built in 1783 in honour of the eighth
building – an abstract compo sition Sikh Guru Har Krishan, this is the
inspired by the shape of an unfurling city’s largest Sikh temple. The guru
lotus flower – was built in 1986 by visited Delhi in 1664 during a cholera
the Baha’is and is open to everyone. and smallpox epi demic, tend ing to
Founded by 19th-century Persian the sick and offering them fresh
visionary Baha’u’llah, the Baha’i faith water from the sarovar (lake) on the
stresses the links between the major site, which is still believed to possess
world religions and has over five medicinal properties (see p80).
million followers worldwide (see p99).
Zinat ul Masjid
4
Popularly known as the Ghata
(Cloud) Masjid, this beautiful building
was com mis sioned by Aurangzeb’s
daugh ter Zinat ul Nisa and was
com pleted in 1707. It is the only one
of the city’s later Mughal monuments
grand enough to rival the earlier
creations of Shah Jahan (see p86).
Lakshmi Narayan
5
Mandir
This eye-catching modern Hindu
temple, popularly known as Birla
The Colonial-style St James’ Church Mandir, was commissioned by
industrial ist B D Birla and con-
St James’ Church
2 secrated in 1939 by Gandhi – one
Easily the city’s most attractive of the first temples in India open to
church, this Colonial gem was built everyone, irrespective of caste. The
by the legend ary Anglo-Indian spacious interior is centred on a
soldier James Skinner (1778–1841). shrine to Lakshmi and her consort
Barred from serving in the British Narayan (Vishnu), flanked by images
army owing to his mixed race, of Durga and Shiva (see p79).
Skinner established his own irregu-
Nizamuddin
lar cavalry regi ment, Skinner’s 6
Horse, which still forms a part of the One of the most magical
Indian army to this day (see p85). places in Delhi, the wonderfully
054-055_Top_10_Delhi.indd 54 5/25/17 9:47 AM
Places of Worship ❮❮ 55
atmospheric religious complex of NH1
Nizamuddin grew up around the
revered dargah (Muslim shrine) of ROHTAK ROAD Old Delhi OLD
the Chishti Sufi saint Nizamuddin DELHI
Auliya. Among the cluster of struc- New Delhi VIKAS MG
tures now sur rounding the saint’s
tomb are the Jamat Khana Masjid
(1325) and the graves of the famous VANDE MATARAM MG NEW INDIA Yamuna River
poet Amir Khusrau (1253–1325) and DELHI GATE
Princess Jahanara, Shah Jahan’s
daughter (see p94). CHANAKYAPURI Hazrat
Nizamuddin
Lal Mandir
7 RING ROAD NH2
This Jain temple is one of the
city’s most important. Topped by a HAUZ AUROBINDO MARG KAILASH Okhla
KHAS
cluster of towers, made of red Kota OUTER RING ROAD
stone, it has a richly painted interior, 0 km 2
full of dimin utive marble images of MEHRAULI 0 miles 2
various Jain gurus in glass cases.
Begumpuri Masjid
Next to the temple is a small “bird 9
hospital”, where birds are fed and Built in the 1340s by
cared for – evidence of the profound Muhammad bin Tughlaq as part of
res pect that the Jain religion has for his city of Jahanpanah, this little-
all forms of life (see p14). visited but atmospheric mosque
is one of the finest in Delhi. The
mosque is centred on a huge
courtyard surrounded by domed
arcades, with a fortress-like gateway
leading into the prayer hall – a
perfect example of Tughlaq
architecture at its rugged and
imposing best (see p100).
Jama Masjid
0
Despite the exodus of many
of the old city’s Muslims during the
Partition in 1947, Delhi’s spec tacular
Jama Masjid remains a key centre
Visitors at Akshardham Temple for Islamic worship (see pp16–17).
Akshardham Temple
8
This gargantuan modern
Hindu temple, inaugurated in 2005,
was built in honour of the sage
Bhagwan Shri Swaminarayan (1781–
1830), who left his birth place in Uttar
Pradesh at the age of 11 and walked
for seven years and 12,000 km
(7,456 miles) before establishing an
ashram in Gujarat. From here, he
preached a message of non-violence
and spi ritual unity, attract ing many
Hindu fo llowers as well as Muslim
and Zoroastrian devotees (see p94).
Jama Masjid, India’s largest mosque
054-055_Top_10_Delhi.indd 55 5/25/17 9:47 AM
56 ❯❯ The Top 10 of Everything
Parks and Gardens
they have many rare species of flora,
including 250 varieties of rose and
60 types of bougainvillea (see p21).
Hauz Khas Deer Park
4
Close to the old tank and
monuments of Hauz Khas Village
(see p100), the beautiful Hauz Khas
Deer Park is an area of peace ful,
shady wood land, complete with pens
of bounding spotted deer, roving
peacocks and abundant bird life.
Qudsia Bagh
5
North of Old Delhi lies Qudsia
Bagh, created in 1748 as a royal
Statue at Buddha Jayanti Park pleas ure park by Qudsia Begum
(1801–81), wife of Mughal emperor
Buddha Jayanti Park
1 Muhammad Shah. Little survives of
MAP K2 • Vandemataram
the park’s ori ginal buildings apart
Marg • Jhandewalan Metro • Open from a florid gate way, and a delicate
5am–7pm daily little mosque situated at the garden’s
Hemmed in amidst the woodland most south eastern end (see p88).
of the Ridge west of New Delhi, this
Talkatora Gardens
beautiful park was created in 1993 6
to mark the 2,500th anniversary MAP L2 • Mother Teresa
of the Buddha’s enlightenment. A Crescent • Open sunrise–sunset daily
Buddha statue sits within the park. Behind Rashtrapati Bhavan, these
18th-century gar dens are among
Lodi Gardens
2 central Delhi’s most popular parks.
They are prettiest in spring when the
Arguably the most attractive
gardens in Delhi, with idyllic lawns colourful shrubs burst into life.
and shady patches of wood land
Garden of Five Senses
dotted with the impos ing tombs of 7
assorted Lodi and Sayyid rulers and MAP V3 • Said-ul-Ajaib village,
nobles (see pp30–31). near Mahavirsthal on the Mehrauli–
Badarpur Road • Saket Metro • Open
Mughal Gardens
3 8am–9pm daily • Adm
Tucked away in the grounds
This is Delhi’s most artistic garden,
of Rashtrapati Bhavan, the Mughal dotted with sculp tures. The gardens
Gardens are open to the public only them selves are divided into differ-
for a month in spring, but are worth a ently landscaped areas, with sensory
visit. Designed by Edwin Lutyens in themes and names such as the “Trail
a blend of Mughal and English styles, of Fragrance” and “Colour Gardens”.
056-057_Top_10_Delhi.indd 56 5/25/17 9:47 AM
Parks and Gardens ❮❮ 57
Nehru Park
8 TOP 10 INDIAN TREES
MAP L6 • Panchsheel Road,
Chanyakapuri • Open 5am–8pm daily
Covering almost 32 ha (80 acres),
Nehru Park is one of the most
popular retreats in South Delhi, with
spacious lawns and a pool. The park
frequently hosts concerts.
Raj Ghat
9
These gardens are best
known as the place where the
funeral rites of modern India’s
most important leaders took The flowers of the gulmohar tree
place, including Mahatma Gandhi, 1 Champa (Plumeria rubra)
Indira Gandhi, Rajiv Gandhi and A species of frangipani, this is one of
Jawaharlal Nehru, each of whom the most com mon Indian flowering
is commemorated with a monument shrubs, producing huge white blooms.
(see p85). 2 Neeli Gulmohar
(Jacaranda mimosifolia)
The jacaranda is a flowering tree,
which explodes in spring into a very
dis tinc tive purple-blue blossom.
3 Peepul (Ficus religiosa)
A species of banyan fig, this is also
Buddhism’s sacred tree (commonly
known as the bodhi tree).
4 Amaltas (Cassia fistula)
A shrub (Indian laburnum in English)
Mahatma Gandhi memorial, Raj Ghat with Ayurvedic properties, this bursts
into cascading yellow flowers in spring.
Coronation Park
0 5 Gulmohar (Delonix regia)
MAP B4 • Shanti Swaroop
Tyagi Marg, near Nirankari Sarovar The Indian flame tree has distinctive
fern-like leaves and bright red flowers.
• Open sunrise–sunset daily 6 Semal (Bombax ceiba)
Some 19 km (12 miles) north of The red silk cotton tree is an attractive
Connaught Place, this was the site ornamental tree and especially pretty
of the three British Durbars of 1887, in spring, when it is covered in vibrant
1903 and 1911. After independence, red flowers, with no leaves.
the park was used as a dumping 7 Jamun (Syzygium cumini)
ground for Raj-era statues, including The evergreen black plum is known
a statue of King George V that once for its large purple berries. It also
stood in front of India Gate. features in the epic, the Ramayana.
8 Kachnar (Bauhinia variegata)
Mughal Gardens The popular ornamental orchid tree
has scented pink or white flowers.
9 Dhak (Butea monosperma)
This pretty flowering species, known
as the flame of the forest in English,
has curved, bright orange flowers.
10 Neem (Azadirachta indica)
A common South Asian tree (Indian
lilac), the neem is renowned for its
medicinal properties, hence its popular
description as the “village pharmacy”.
056-057_Top_10_Delhi.indd 57 5/25/17 9:47 AM
58 ❯❯ The Top 10 of Everything
Delhi-Inspired Books
Hardy as a reporter for The Indian
Express, offers fascinating insights
into the city’s com plex social fabric,
from the lives of local slum dwellers
to the West ernized airs of Delhi’s
high-flying aristocratic elite.
Trees of Delhi: A Field
4
Guide (Pradip Krishen)
With a total ban on high-rise
constructions still effective across
large parts of the capital, Delhi’s
skyline is dominated not just by
buildings but by trees. Ecologist
and tree-lover Pradip Krishen’s
field guide provides an excellent
introduction to some of the common
varieties of trees that dot the city
which, by many accounts, has
become greener over recent years.
The Delhi Omnibus
5
(introduction by
Indian author Anita Desai Narayani Gupta)
The omnibus captures not just the
Clear Light of Day
1 physical history of the city, but the
(Anita Desai)
manner in which the people have
This is Anita Desai’s most obviously invented and reinvented themselves
auto biographical work, centred on over time. It contains writings by
the contrasting stories of two sisters Percival Spear, Narayani Gupta,
from Old Delhi – one of R E Frykenberg and
whom leaves the city and Christopher Bayly.
the other of whom
Delhi:
remains – and their 6
subse quent reunion. Adventures
in a Megacity
The White Tiger
2 (Sam Miller)
(Aravind Adiga)
This very entertaining
A Booker Prize-winning eye-witness account
debut novel by Chennai- of contempo rary Delhi
born Aravind Adiga, this follows a spiralling
is partly set in Delhi, and perambu lation through
relates the murderous the city, from the centre
career of anti-hero Delhi: Adventures of Connaught Place out
Balram Halwai, with in a Megacity into the suburbs, with
insights into con tem- wonderfully evocative
porary Indian society en route. descriptions of the many people and
places encoun tered on the journey.
Scoop-wallah: Life
3 Delhi: A Novel
On a Delhi Daily
(Justine Hardy) 7
(Khushwant Singh)
This engrossing account of a year This is an engaging novel by one
spent by English jour nalist Justine of India’s foremost modern writers.
058-059_Top_10_Delhi.indd 58 5/25/17 9:47 AM
Delhi-Inspired Books ❮❮ 59
Historical snapshots of the city
through the ages – culminating in TOP 10 DELHI FILMS
the anti-Sikh riots of 1984 – are
interspersed with a secondary
narrative about a journalist and
the passionate relation ship he
develops with a hijra (eunuch).
City of Djinns
8
(William Dalrymple)
A beau tifully written portrait of
Delhi’s multilayered perso nality, this
book is partic ularly strong on the Monsoon Wedding (2001)
city’s history, interspersed with richly 1 Fire (1996)
comic snap shots of the modern city. A controversial tale of a lesbian affair
between two Delhi housewives.
Twilight in Delhi
9 2 Monsoon Wedding (2001)
(Ahmed Ali)
A novel by Delhi-born Ahmed Ali, this Mira Nair’s marvellously evocative
portrait of the people and places of
paints a beautiful portrait of the city contemporary Delhi, combining social
at the beginning of the 20th century comedy with stunning cinematography.
– an elegiac lament for the city’s 3 Rang De Basanti (2006)
rapidly disappearing Mughal An influential film by director Rakeysh
traditions in the face of the Colo nial Omprakash Mehra about five young
and European cultural onslaught. men who are trying to expose India’s
widespread political corruption.
The Last Mughal
0 4 Khosla Ka Ghosla! (2006)
(William Dalrymple)
A comedy drama depicting the battle
A landmark study of the 1857 between a middle-class family and a
Uprising, drawing on unpub lished real-estate shark over a plot of land.
contem porary source. This is the 5 Oye Lucky! Lucky Oye! (2008)
most even-handed account of the A comedy with Abhay Deol playing a
conflict yet published in English. “super thief” alongside a lovable host
of rather disreputable characters.
6 Delhi-6 (2009)
A Rakeysh Omprakash Mehra film
depicting the lives and loves of an
eclectic array of Old Delhi characters.
7 Dev.D (2009)
Clever, contemporary reworking of
the classic Bengali movie Devdas.
8 Vicky Donor (2012)
Reflecting a city coming to grips with
modernity, with Ayushmann Khurrana
as a Punjabi sperm donor who falls in
love with a wordly Bengali banker.
9 Band Baajaa Baraat (2010)
A refreshing love story following the
ups and downs of two rival wedding
planners in modern Delhi.
10 Delhi Belly (2011)
A black comedy, starring Imran Khan,
about three friends who share a room
in Delhi and somehow get involved in
an underworld crime plot.
The Last Mughal (William Dalrymple)
058-059_Top_10_Delhi.indd 59 5/25/17 9:47 AM
60 ❯❯ The Top 10 of Everything
Off the Beaten Track
Shankar’s International
1 0 km 4
Dolls Museum
MAP H6 • 4 Bahadur Shah Zafar Marg NH1 0 miles 4
• 2331 6970 • Open 10am–6pm Tue–
Sun (last entry 5:30pm) • Adm KAROL
• www.childrensbooktrust.com/ BAGH OLD
dollsmuseum.html DELHI
Doll enthusiasts will love this NEW
prodigious collection of over 6,000 DELHI
dolls from around the world, many NOIDA
dressed in regional and national
costumes, and including amusing RING ROAD
mann equins of John Wayne, Louis VASANT AUROBINDO MG
KAILASH
Armstrong and Henry VIII. NH8 VIHAR OUTER RING RD NH2
Majnu ka Tila
2 OKHLA
MAP B4 • Aruna Nagar,
Outer Ring Road • 15 min walk MEHRAULI - BADARPUR RD
DEVLI
or short auto-rickshaw ride
from Vidhan Sabha Metro
Here in Delhi’s little Tibet the Dalai
Lama’s image beams down from the
Kalan Masjid
wall of almost every establishment. 4
Visitors can purchase prayer wheels, MAP G5 • In an alley opposite
thangkas (traditional Buddhist 2063 Mohammed Deen Haichi Marg
religious paintings), books about Built in 1387 and older than Old
Tibet and excellent Tibetan food. Delhi itself, this blue-and-green
mosque, located near
Turkman Gate, was –
along with Khirki Masjid
(see p45) – one of seven
mosques commissioned
by Feroz Shah’s chief
mini ster Khan-i-Jahan
Junan Shah. It is the only
one still in use today.
Masjid
5
Mubarak
Begum
MAP G4 • 4959 Hauz Razi,
Lalkuan Bazaar Road
Prayer wheels, Majnu ka Tila • Chawri Bazaar Metro
This charming little private mosque
Adhchini
3 was built in 1823 for the Indian wife
MAP V2 • Qutab Enclave,
of Sir David Ochterlony, British
Aurobindo Marg • Hauz Khas Metro Resident at the Mughal Court.
An urban village, with residents, who Hidden away above a busy bazaar,
mainly belong to an ethnic group and accessed by a narrow stairway
called the Jats, Adhchini contains a between two shops (guests must
16th-century Lodi mosque and an take their shoes off at the top), it has
impressive shrine to the mother of a tiny prayer hall with only enough
Nizamuddin Auliya (see p94). room for ten worshippers.
060-061_Top_10_Delhi.indd 60 5/25/17 9:47 AM
Off the Beaten Track ❮❮ 61
Surajkund Dam
6
Anangpur, 20 km (12 miles)
S of central Delhi, 4 km (2 miles)
W of NHPC Chowk metro station
• Surajkund Tank: open sunrise–
sunset daily • Adm
Way off the beaten track, but still
within easy reach of the metro, this
is Delhi’s very oldest construction,
built under the Tomar king Anangpal
in the 8th century to store rainwater
for irrigation. Surajkund Tank, 2 km
(1 mile) to its north, is an ancient
10th-century reservoir, which was
also built under the Tomars.
Aliganj
7 Paharganj Christian Cemetery
MAP N7 • Between Aliganj
Paharganj Christian
Road and Karbala Road, Jor Bagh 9
• Jor Bagh Metro • shahemardan.org Cemetery
Once the estate of the Shiite rulers MAP E5 • Ramdwara Road, Nehru
of Awadh, the family of the Nawab of Bazaar • 2358 5710 • Open daily
Safdarjung, this neighbourhood has It is easy to forget that Christianity is
some interesting 18th-century build- an important religion in India, where
ings, most notably the Shah-e-Mardan three states still have Christian
Dargah, a Shia shrine where Sunnis majorities. This little cemetery has
and Hindus also sometimes go to pray. faithfully served Delhi’s Christian
community since the 19th century,
Chhattarpur Mandir
8 but really comes to life on Halloween,
when it sparkles with candles left by
MAP B7 • Main Chhattarpur
Road • 2680 2925 • Chhattarpur relatives visiting the deceased.
Metro • Open 6am–10pm daily
Bijay Mandal
• www.chhattarpurmandir.org 0
This was the biggest temple in India MAP V2 • Kalu Sarai, near
when it was built in 1974, but it is Hauz Khas Metro
really a park-like compound with Around 100 m (330 ft) north of
several temples inside it, presided Begumpuri Masjid (see p100), this
over by a 30-m (98-ft) high statue sturdy but atmospheric ruin is all
of the monkey god, Hanuman. The that remains of sultan Muhammad
complex was financed by followers bin Tughlaq’s palace. Visitors can
of a guru known as Babaji, whose climb to the octagonal pavilion on
ashes rest in one of the temples. its roof for great views over the city.
The Chhattarpur Mandir complex
060-061_Top_10_Delhi.indd 61 5/25/17 9:47 AM
62 ❯❯ The Top 10 of Everything
Performing Arts Venues
Classical dance performance during a show at Kamani Auditorium
Kamani Auditorium
Sangeet Natak Akademi
1 4
MAP Q1 • Mandi House,
MAP P1 • Rabindra Bhavan,
1 Copernicus Marg • 4350 3351 35 Feroz Shah Road • 2338 7246
• Mandi House Metro • www. • Mandi House Metro • www.
kamaniauditorium.org sangeetnatak.org
The Kamani Auditorium is one of the This is one of the country’s foremost
city’s leading venues for classical per form ing arts venues, and home to
music and dance, attracting leading Delhi’s finest open-air theatre. It also
performers from across the country. has a library and a gallery featuring
a range of traditional musical
Triveni Kala Sangam
2 instru ments, masks and puppets.
MAP G7 • 205 Tansen
National School
Marg • 2371 8833 • Mandi 5
House Metro of Drama
This cultural centre houses MAP Q1 • Bahawalpur
a range of venues, including House, 1 Bhagwan Das Road
galler ies, an auditorium and • 2338 2821 • Mandi House
an open-air theatre, which Metro • www.nsd.gov.in
stages regular music and The National School
dance performances. of Drama (NSD) is the
country’s leading academy
Shri Ram
3 for aspiring actors. The
Centre for
Performing Arts productions are staged by
current students and
MAP Q1 • 4 Safdar Hashmi National School the school’s professional
Marg • 2371 4307 of Drama reper tory company.
• Mandi House Metro
Parsi Anjuman Hall
• www.shriramcentre.org 6
Established in 1975, this is an MAP H5 • Bahadur Shah
important theatrical venue, with its Zafar Marg • 2323 8615 • Pragati
own outstanding reper tory company, Maidan Metro
staging a wide range of interesting Home to the Dances of India show
productions that include musical, (daily at 6:45pm), featuring a pro-
traditional and experi men tal theatre. gramme of classical and folk dances.
062-063_Top_10_Delhi.indd 62 5/25/17 9:47 AM
Performing Arts Venues ❮❮ 63
India International
7 TOP 10 FORMS OF INDIAN
Centre
MAP P6 • 40 Max Mueller Marg CLASSICAL MUSIC
• 2461 9431 • www.iicdelhi.nic.in
Besides regular music, dance and
theatrical performances, the India
International Centre (IIC) hosts
exhibi tions and talks attract ing
leading cultural personalities from
Salman Rushdie to Noam Chomsky.
It also hosts a popular cinema club
with art-house film screen ings.
A group of qawwali singers
Nizamuddin
8 1 Raga and Khayal
The fascinating religious
enclave of Nizamuddin is Delhi’s The system of modes underlying all
most atmospheric venue for Indian classical music, a framework
for composition and improvisation.
impromptu music, with nightly A khayal is the extended, improvised
performances of ecstatic qawwali elaboration of a raga using a lyrical
singing around the shrine of composition called a bandish.
Nizamuddin Auliya, the famous 2 Dhrupad
Sufi saint (see p94). One of the oldest and most austere
Siri Fort
9 forms of Hindustani classical vocal
music, said to have developed from
MAP V2 • Khel Gaon Marg
• 2649 3370 • Green Park Metro the chanting of Vedic hymns.
3 Thumri
The extensive Siri Fort Cultural A type of love song, usually performed
Complex boasts three audi toriums in Braj Bhasha, a dialect of Hindi.
(the largest seating almost 2,000 4 Dadra
people), staging a range of big-name A light form of Hindustani classical
events, particu larly Indian classical vocal music popular in north India.
music concerts, dance and film.
5 Tarana
India Habitat Centre
0 North Indian vocal genre involving
the rapid singing of musical syllables
MAP P6 • Lodi Road • 2468
2001 • www.indiahabitat.org based on Persian/Arabic phonemes.
This is one of Delhi’s state-of-the-art 6 Kriti
The major vocal genre of Carnatic
performing-arts venues, and hosts music, divided into three parts, and
regular music, dance and cultural with a religious theme.
events such as art-house film 7 Varnam
screenings and talks. Form of Carnatic vocal music designed
to bring out the qualities of the
underlying raga.
8 Padam
Light classical love songs in the
Carnatic tradition, often sung during
Bharatanatyam dance performances.
9 Ghazal
Persian-derived light classical song
form, often using lyrics by Urdu poets.
10 Qawwali
Sufi devotional music, with ecstatic,
rhythmic singing used by devotees to
achieve the trance-like state that Sufis
believe brings them closer to God.
Bhangra at the India Habitat Centre
062-063_Top_10_Delhi.indd 63 5/25/17 9:47 AM
64 ❯❯ The Top 10 of Everything
Places to Eat
Indian Accent
Olive Bar & Kitchen
1 4
Located in the rustic yet
A superb modern Indian
swanky One Style Mile, Olive Bar & fusion restaurant, where the dishes
Kitchen is one of the prettiest run to paneer tikka quesadillas, tofu
restaurants in coriander vadas
town, with a lovely, and tandoori
airy courtyard and ba con prawns. It
the Qutb Minar can be difficult to
providing a stun make a decision
ning backdrop. with a range of
The food here, innovative local
mainly Indian, dishes so it’s
Italian and Indian Accent fusion cuisine worth checking
Mediterranean, is the excellent
delicious too (see p105). vegetarian and nonvegetarian
tasting menus on offer (see p104).
SodaBottleOpenerWala
2 Saravana Bhavan
Straight out of Bombay but
with a strong Iranian influence, this 5
An excellent and inexpensive
restaurant specializes in the food south Indian vegetarian restaurant,
of the Parsi community. As well as where diners can feast on idli
dhansak, there are more adventurous sambar, masala dosa and many other
dishes such as sweetandsour brinjal south Indian specialities, or tuck into
patio or the berry pulao, made famous a tasty vegetarian thali. If that is too
by Bombay’s Britannia restaurant filling, visitors can go for the mini
(see p97). Baked goodies include tiffin, which offers a small taste of
ginger biscuit and mawa cake. everything on the menu (see p83).
Chor Bizarre
Spice Route
3 6
This elegant hotel restaurant
This place specializes in
excellent Kashmiri dishes rarely offers guests a special dining expe
found elsewhere, such as goshtaba rience. The cuisine is from southeast
(slowcooked mutton in yoghurt and Asia and the Indian state of Kerala –
cardamon) and a wonderful Kashmiri it is fiery, and the emphasis is on
version of dum aloo (see p89). The fish and seafood. A tasting menu is
decor is delightfully eccentric. available in the evenings (see p83).
Diners at Chor Bizarre, with its whimsical decor
064-065_Top_10_Delhi.indd 64 5/25/17 9:47 AM
Places to Eat ❮❮ 65
Wasabi By Morimoto
7 TOP 10 BARS AND NIGHTCLUBS
Dark wood sets the tone for
this top-class Japanese restau rant. 1 PCO
After a drink at the exclusive sake A “speakeasy” boasting retro decor, a
bar, sample some steamed oysters well-stocked bar and exotic cocktails.
followed by tender loin teppenyaki. Requires a secret code – periodically
Round the meal off with a pungent, changed – for entry (see p103).
yet surprisingly cooling, serving of 2 Aqua
wasabi sorbet (see p83). An elegant spot for drinks, with an
iridescent pool, curtained pavilions
and designer bar (see p82).
3 1911
A quiet, elegant Art Deco place that is
steeped in old-world charm (see p82).
4 OTW (On the Waterfront)
An elegant bar at the Lodhi serving
the best wine in town (see p97).
5 Club Pangaea
MAP L6 • The Ashok Hotel, 50-B
Diplomatic Enclave, Chanakyapuri
• 3014 6033 • Open 7pm–1am daily
An exclusive nightclub serving some
of the city’s best malts and wines.
6 Baci
A refined option ideal for an early
evening tête-à-tête, but trans forms
into a party hot-spot at the weekend.
Very popular with the city’s expatriate
Table setting at Bukhara crowd. Generous cocktails (see p97).
Bukhara
8 7 Fio Cookhouse & Bar
Great thin-crust pizzas and potent
With a guest list that includes
former US President Bill Clinton, cocktails with a twist (see p105).
Bukhara offers a rich menu that 8 G-Bar
MAP T2 • The Grand, Nelson
includes the city’s best-loved dishes. Mandela Marg • 2677 1234
The buttery dal bukhara (lentils) is • Open 6pm–3am daily
legendary, as is the succulent, melt- Attracts a young crowd with its lively
in-the-mouth lamb dish and the music and upbeat atmosphere.
Sikandari raan (see p97). 9 Kylin
The China Kitchen
9 An atmospheric bar with excellent
cocktails and fruity sangria (see p103).
A far cry from the usual
Indian-influenced Chinese fare 10 Kitty Su
Colourful nightclub off Connaught
served up in the city, the food in Place with a vibrant atmosphere and
The China Kitchen is modern and regular concerts and events (see p82).
experi mental yet still deeply rooted
in traditional, primarily Szechuan,
flavours. Diners swear the Peking
Duck is the best in Delhi (see p105).
Karim’s
0
Boasting a line of chefs that,
apparently, used to prepare meals
for Mughal emperors, Karim’s is
arguably the city’s most famous
restaurant. Try the excellent mutton The elegant, alfresco Aqua
korma and seekh kebabs (see p89).
064-065_Top_10_Delhi.indd 65 5/25/17 9:47 AM
66 ❯❯ The Top 10 of Everything
Bazaars of Old Delhi
Dariba Kalan
1
MAP H3 • Chandni Chowk
• Chandni Chowk Metro • Open
11am–8pm Mon–Sat
Dating back to the days of Emperor
Shah Jahan, “The Street of the
Incomparable Pearl” is Old Delhi’s
foremost jewellery bazaar. The
shops here sell an array of pre cious
stones and metals including an
especially good selection of silver-
ware, as well as traditional attar-
based itr perfumes. The crowded stalls of Kinari Bazaar
Ballimaran
2 lined with shops crammed full of all
kinds of spices, pulses, dried fruits
MAP G3 • Chandni Chowk
• Chandni Chowk Metro • Open and other cooking ingredients.
11am–8pm Mon–Sat
Kinari Bazaar
The Chandni Chowk end of this long 4
Old Delhi thoroughfare is the place to MAP G3 • Chandni Chowk
go to for shoes and slippers. • Chandni Chowk Metro • Open
11am–8pm Mon–Sat
Just off Dariba Kalan, the shops of
Kinari Bazaar are famous for their
wedding paraphernalia and other
“fancy goods” – garlands of fake
flowers and bank notes, reams of gold
and silver tinsel, bridal veils, turbans
for grooms and sparkly costume
jewellery. They also sell items used
in the Ramayana performances that
are staged all over the city during
the festival of Dussehra.
Guliyan Bazaar
5
MAP G4 • Chawri Bazaar Metro
Stretching around the northwestern
side of Jama Masjid, this is the place
to come to stock up on fire works for
a wedding or a festival, with shops
filled with piles of brightly col oured
boxes full of rockets, fire crackers
and other things that go bang.
Dry fruits on sale at Khari Baoli Nai Sarak
Khari Baoli
3 6
MAP G4 • Chawri Bazaar Metro
This street, created by the British
MAP F3 • Chandni Chowk
• Chandni Chowk Metro • Open in 1857 (hence the name, meaning
11am–8pm Mon–Sat “New Street”), cuts across the heart
Said to be the biggest spice market of the old city. It is now Old Delhi’s
in Asia, Khari Baoli is one of Old main book market, with small shops
Delhi’s most absorbing sights. Lively selling dog-eared, second-hand
and con gested in equal measure, it is school and college textbooks.
066-067_Top_10_Delhi.indd 66 5/25/17 9:47 AM
Bazaars of Old Delhi ❮❮ 67
Car Parts Bazaar
7 TOP 10 SHOPS AND MARKETS
MAP G4 • Chawri Bazaar Metro
Sprawling around the south and west
sides of the Jama Masjid, this is one
of Old Delhi’s more workaday bazaars
selling mechanical bits and bobs.
Visitors will find every thing from
wheels, doors, hubcaps, panels and
entire engines – a surreal sight in
the shadow of the beautiful mosque.
Katra Neel
8 Colourful handicrafts at Dilli Haat
MAP G3 • Chandni Chowk
• Chandni Chowk Metro • Open 1 Daryaganj Sunday Book Market
11am–8pm Mon–Sat MAP H5 • Open 7am–7pm Sun
Just off Chandni Chowk, this A huge Sunday market for inexpensive
fascinating labyrinth of tiny alleyways second-hand books, most in English,
is cluttered with shops selling all fiction and non-fiction alike.
manner of ladies’ cloth ing – shawls, 2 State Emporia Complex
salwar kameezes, saris – and a wide MAP F7 • A–5 Baba Kharak Singh
variety of tex tiles, such as brocades Marg
from Benarasi, silk and voile. A must-visit for anyone interested in
India’s rich arts and crafts heri tage.
Chawri Bazaar
9 3 Janpath Market
MAP G4 • Chawri Bazaar Metro
MAP F7 • Janpath • Open daily
Old Delhi’s stationery bazaar is Everything from export-reject clothes
devoted to writing paper, greetings to pretty hand made paper lan terns.
cards and other paper products. 4 Khan Market
Paper here is sold by weight and is MAP P5 • Open 10am–7:30pm
very cheap. Shops at the western Mon–Sat
end of the road specialize in lovely Chic shops and restaurants, plus
brass and copper orna ments. smaller shops selling lovely trinkets.
5 Santushti
Meena Bazaar
0 ITC Maurya, Sardar Patel Marg
• Open 10am–7pm Mon–Sat
MAP H4 • Chawri Bazaar Metro
On the steps around the Jama Masjid Classy shopping complex selling an
is Old Delhi’s religious bazaar, with assortment of beautiful designerwear.
stalls sell ing prayer rugs, Koranic 6 Connaught Place
inscri ptions, pictures of Mecca and Elegant Georgian-style crescents
Islamic-style clocks (see p16). housing Delhi’s most important
com mercial space (see p77).
A shoe stall at Meena Bazaar 7 Hauz Khas Village
MAP U2 • Hauz Khas Village
• Open 10am–8:30pm Mon–Sat
Lovely art galleries, cafés and shops.
8 Sarojini Nagar
MAP V1 • Sarojini Nagar
• Open 10am–8:30pm Tue–Sun
Cheap heaps of export-reject clothes.
9 Dilli Haat
A range of Indian craft items (see p96).
10 Select Citywalk Complex
MAP V3 • A-3 District Centre Saket •
4211 4211 • Open 10am–11pm daily
Luxurious mall with stores offering major
international brand names.
066-067_Top_10_Delhi.indd 67 5/25/17 9:47 AM
68 ❯❯ The Top 10 of Everything
Delhi for Free
The fascinating ruins at Mehrauli Archaeological Park
Open-Air Gyms
Mehrauli Archaeological
1 4
Park
Lodi Gardens, Nehru Park and
With over 70 monuments, including other locations • Park opening hours
tombs, mosques, gateways and Those looking for a free outdoor
step wells, from every century workout are in luck. The New Delhi
between the 13th and the 19th, this Municipal Council has installed an
extensive park is full of interesting array of fitness equipment in the Lodi
sights and is also free to visit Gardens (see pp30–31) and Nehru
(see p100). Park (see p57), and now plans to roll
them out in parks across the city.
Films and Concerts
2 Changing of the Guard
Alliance Française: 72 K K Birla
MAP L3 • Gate No. 2 Rashtrapati
Marg, Lodi Estate; delhi.afindia.org 5
• American Center: 24 Kasturba Bhavan, Rajpath • 15 Mar–14 Aug:
Gandhi Marg; in.usembassy.gov. 8am Sat (except in bad weather);
Cultural centres such as the 15 Aug–14 Nov: 9am Sat; 15 Nov–14
American Center and the Alliance Mar: 10am Sat • www.presidentof
Française often host free movies, india.nic.in/changing-of-the-guard.htm
concerts and other events, although Although visits to see the interior of
visitors may have to register or get the presidential palace (see pp20–21)
passes in advance. The National incur a small booking fee, the weekly
Gandhi Museum (see p52) puts on Changing of the Guard ceremony is
free films about Gandhi’s life (in free; just bring your passport.
English on Saturdays at 4pm).
Museums for Free
3
All open Tue–Sun, mostly
10am–5pm
Not far from one another, Gandhi
Smriti (see p79), the Indira Gandhi
Memorial Museum (see p78) and
the Jawaharlal Nehru Memorial
Museum (see p80) are all free, as are,
at the other end of New Delhi, the
National Gallery of Modern Art
(see p80) and the Crafts Museum
(see pp28–9). The National Gandhi
Museum (see p52), the National
Philatelic Museum (see p52) and the
Sulabh International Museum of
Toilets (see p53) are also free. Flag bearers at the Changing of the Guard
068-069_Top_10_Delhi.indd 68 5/25/17 9:47 AM
Delhi for Free ❮❮ 69
Hindu temples
6 TOP 10 BUDGET TIPS
Mostly daily, dawn to late
evening, but some have shorter
opening hours
All Hindu temples are free to enter
as long as you dress respectfully.
The most popular are three modern
temples – Akshardham Temple (see
p94), Chhattarpur Mandir (see p61)
and Lakshmi Narayan Mandir (see
p79) – and the Gauri Shankar Mandir
in Old Delhi (see p88).
Hauz Khas
7 Auto-rickshaws in Old Delhi
MAP U2 • Hauz Khas Village
Road 1 The metro is much cheaper than
a taxi or auto-rickshaw, and usually
Alauddin Khilji’s 14th-century Hauz- faster, with no haggling.
i-Alai reservoir (see p100) is free 2 For auto-rickshaws, use the pre-paid
to visit, as is the nearby Deer Park booths at Connaught Place, Janpath
(see p56). The road into the village and transport terminals, paying an
from Aurobindo Marg has a string of official set rate to avoid overcharging.
14th- and 15th-century tombs along 3 Don’t buy holiday reading before
it; these are also free to everyone. your trip: bookshops in Delhi stock the
Jahanpanah
8 latest bestsellers, for less than half
the price that many would pay at home.
MAP V–W2 • Between the
Outer Ring Road, Press Enclave Marg, 4 Most bars in Delhi have a happy
hour early in the evening, typically
Aurobindo Marg and Lal Bahadur with “buy one get one free” offers
Shastri Marg on Indian beers and spirits.
Delhi’s fourth incarnation (see p51) 5 A coffee at the India Coffee House
is full of fascinating free sights, from (see p82) costs about a quarter of the
the Begumpuri Masjid (see p100) and price charged by other espresso chains.
Bijay Mandal (see p61) to the Khirki 6 Alternatively, drink tea: a nice,
Masjid (see p45) and Chiragh Delhi warming cup of pukka chai will cost
village (p101). Combined, they add around ten rupees on any street corner.
up to a wonderful half-day walk.
7 Have a meal at a dhaba (local diner).
Qawwalis in Nizamuddin
9 If the food is freshly cooked, then
hygiene shouldn’t be an issue. If the
MAP R6 • Hazrat Nizamuddin
Dargah, Nizamuddin • 98117 78607 menu isn’t in English, it’s a good idea
to confirm the price before ordering.
• Open 5:30–7pm & 7:45–9pm daily
• www.nizamuddinaulia.org 8 It is possible to get a bespoke suit
made by a tailor at Connaught Place,
Anyone can attend Nizamuddin’s such as M Ram and Sons (see p81).
dargah (see p94) to hear qawwalis, the Needless to say, it will cost a fraction
rhythmic chanting and singing used of the price charged back home.
by devotees to achieve a trance-like 9 A ticket for the Taj Mahal gives
state. Visitors should dress respect- travellers a discounted rate for entry to
fully, as this is a religious shrine. Fatehpur Sikri and several sites around
Agra if they go on the same day.
Gurudwara Bangla
0 10 One or two of Delhi’s best
Sahib
Delhi’s biggest Sikh temple offers restaurants offer slightly less expensive
set menus. At Bukhara (see p65), there’s
free guided tours on request, with a lunchtime set menu, while Spice
devotional music on tap, and a free Route (see p64), by contrast, has a
meal of dal and chapattis three times tasting menu in the evening.
Flag bearers at the Changing of the Guard daily for everyone (see p54).
068-069_Top_10_Delhi.indd 69 5/25/17 9:47 AM
70 ❯❯ The Top 10 of Everything
Festivals and Events
A marching regiment at the Indian Republic Day Parade
Vintage Car Rally
Republic Day Parade
1 4
26 Jan
Late Feb/Early Mar
India’s biggest parade celebrates the This car rally features around 100
inauguration of the Indian constitu vintage and postwar cars, with their
tion on 26 January 1950. The parade owners dressed in period costume.
begins at the foot of Raisina Hill (see The event starts and ends in central
p20) and ends at the Red Fort, with Delhi and attracts participants from
military march pasts, floats and a all over the country.
flypast by the Indian Air Force. National School of
Beating the Retreat
Drama Festivals
2 5
29 Jan
May and Jun • Adm
Signalling the official end of the Each year, the National School of
Republic Day celebra tions, this Drama (see p62) hosts the Summer
cere mony recalls the old battle field Theatre Festival, with a variety of
tradition of soldiers halting hostilities classical and contemporary plays
at the end of the day. It is held at staged by the school's professional
Vijay Chowk (see p21) and features repertory company. In spring, it hosts
a parade of soldiers accom the Bharat Rang Mahotsav, with
panied by military bands. plays by theatre companies
from across the world.
Surajkund
3 International
Crafts Mela
Mango Festival
A fortnight in Feb 6
Held in Surajkund, about Late Jun/Early Jul
20 km (12 miles) south Mango lovers can sample
of Delhi, this is one of more than 500 different
India’s big gest craft fairs, types of mango that are on
showcasing works from offer at this annual celebra
all over the country, with tion of the delicious yellow
musi cians and dancers fruit. The event is held at
creating a lively carnival Surajkund Crafts held at Talkatora Gardens
esque atmos phere. Mela handicrafts (see p56) every year.
070-071_Top_10_Delhi.indd 70 5/25/17 9:47 AM
Festivals and Events ❮❮ 71
Phool Walon ki Sair
7 TOP 10 RELIGIOUS FESTIVALS
Usually 3 days in Sep
The colourful Festival of the Flower
Sellers is held in Mehrauli (see p100)
after the rainy season. The highlight
is the pro cession of flower sellers,
who carry ornate floral tributes to
the shrine of Qutb Sahib (see p26).
They are led by dancers and people
playing the shehnai, a type of wood
wind instrument whose sound is
thought to create a sense of sanctity.
Old Fort Dance Festival
8 A devotee with an idol of Ganesh
Early Oct
A free, fiveday festival of classical 1 Maha Shivaratri
The “Great Night of Shiva”, marked with
Indian dance at the medieval Purana fasts and prayers (late Feb/early Mar).
Qila fort (see p93). Visitors experience 2 Holi
the very best of Indian dance, from Indian spring festival, with bonfires lit
the graceful storytelling Kathak of the day before and people dousing
northern India to Kerala’s mesmer each other with coloured powder and
izing Mohiniyattam and Tamil Nadu’s water on the day (usually Mar).
spiritual Bharatanatyam. 3 Rama Navami
Celebration of the birth of Rama,
with continuous readings of the epic
Ramayana, accom panied by singing
and prayers (late Mar/early Apr).
4 Buddha Jayanti
Celebration of the Buddha’s birth,
enlightenment and death (May).
5 Krishna Janmashtami
One-day festival celebrating the birth
of Lord Krishna (mid-Aug–mid-Sep).
6 Ganesh Chaturthi
Ten-day festival celebrating the
birth of Lord Ganesh with colourful
processions (mid-Aug–mid-Sep).
7 Dussehra
Performers at the Purana Qila fort Ten-day festival celebrating the victory
The IIC Experience
9 of good over evil, inc luding Rama’s
victory over Ravana and Durga’s defeat
of Mahishasura (mid-Sep–mid-Oct).
Mid-Oct
Held at the IlC (see p63), this festival 8 Bakr Id
of the arts hosts a wide range of The year’s biggest Muslim festival,
cultural events from music and when the Jama Masjid area becomes
dance (both Indian and Western) to a market for sacrifical goats (Sep/Oct).
theatre, film and literature, and is 9 Diwali
accompanied by a good food festival. Five-day festival of lights in honour of
Lord Rama’s return to Ayodhya from
Qutb Festival
0 exile, marked with the lighting of
lamps and fireworks (Oct/Nov).
Nov/Dec
A threeday music festival, with 10 Guru Purab
concerts held in the Qutb Minar A series of ten Sikh festivals, each
Complex (see pp24–5), ranging from celebrating the birth of one of the Sikh
soulful qawwali singers and virtuoso faith's ten gurus (through the year).
sitar players to young rock bands.
070-071_Top_10_Delhi.indd 71 5/25/17 9:47 AM
72 ❯❯ The Top 10 of Everything
Excursions from Delhi
Deeg
3
MAP B3 • Deeg Palace:
Open 8am–5pm daily • Adm
This workaday town is home
to one of the region’s most
spectacular palaces. Built in
the 18th century by the local Jat
rulers, the Deeg Palace blends
Hindu and Mughal elements with
spacious water gardens dotted
with palaces and pavilions. The
celebrated Keshav Bhawan
(known as Monsoon Palace) was
designed to re-create the torren-
tial rainfall and thunderous sounds
A monkey outside Mathura temple of a wet-season downpour.
Mathura and Vrindavan
Sultanpur Bird Sanctuary
1 4
MAP B3 • 45 km (28 miles) SW
MAP C3
Mathura is reputed to be the birth of Delhi • Open 6am–4:30pm Wed–
place of the flute-playing deity, Mon • Adm and charge for video
Krishna, while half a million pilgrims Around 45 km
a year flock to the nearby town (28 miles) southwest
of Vrindavan and the hill of of Delhi in Haryana
Govardhan, which Krishna is state, the Sultanpur Bird
said to have lifted with Sanctuary makes for a
just a single finger. peaceful rural outing.
Centred on a large
Amritsar
2 wetland area that fills
MAP B1
up during the seasonal
Sultanpur
The holiest city of the Bird Sanctuary rains, the sanc tuary
Sikh faith is home to attracts aquatic migra-
the Golden Temple, an unforgettable tory birds and offers a number of
sight with the gilded Harmandir Sahib walks through the surrounding woods.
rising out of the surrounding lake.
Keoladeo
5
0 km 60 350 km Muzaffarnagar Ghana National
0 miles 60 Panipat Park
MAP C3 • Bharatpur
Hansi Meerut
Rohtak district, 185 km (115 miles)
NH10 Moradabad
Bhiwani NH1 NH24 E of Jaipur • Open Apr–
Hapur
DELHI Sep: 6am–6pm; Oct–Mar:
Indira Gandhi
Gurugram Bulandshahr 6:30am–5:30pm • Adm
This wonderful national
Namaul Yamuna G anges park near the town of
Aligarh Bharatpur is arguably
Palwal NH2
NH8 Vrindavan India’s finest birdwatching
Alwar Deeg
Mathura Etah destination. It is home to a
NH11
Bharatpur huge number of resident
Agra
Jaipur NH11 Fatehpur Sikri NH2 and migratory species,
Jaipur Dausa Dholpur includ ing flocks of aquatic
birds who come to nest in
the park’s wetlands.
NH12
072-073_Top_10_Delhi.indd 72 5/25/17 9:50 AM
Excursions from Delhi ❮❮ 73
Agra
Sariska Tiger Reserve
6 9
Once capital of the entire
MAP B3 • Alwar district, 37 km
(23 miles) SW of Alwar • 78383 48955 Mughal Empire, the large and
• Open 6am–4pm daily (call in chaotic city of Agra is home to some
advance to check for timings) of India’s most wonderful and
An hour’s drive beyond Alwar, in spiring monuments, including the
the Sariska Tiger Reserve was left impr essive Agra Fort, the exquisite
without any tigers in 2005, when it ItimadudDaulah, Emperor Akbar’s
was discovered that the park’s entire Tomb at Sikandra and, of course, the
tiger popu lation had vanished, pre magnificent Taj Mahal (see pp36–9).
sumably taken by poachers. With a
repopulation programme, the num
ber of tigers is now believed to be
14. The visitors can also see a wide
range of birdlife and a good selection
of Indian mammals, ranging from
jackals to antelopes.
Fatehpur Sikri
7
MAP C3 • Open sunrise–sunset
daily • Adm
Around 40 km (25 miles) beyond
Agra lie the fascinating remains of
the ghost city of Fatehpur Sikri, built
by Akbar between 1569 and 1585,
but abandoned not long afterwards.
The city remains wonderfully pre
served, with superb red sand stone
buildings and a magically time
warped atmosphere. The characterful city of Alwar in Rajasthan
Alwar
Jaipur
8 0
MAP B3
MAP B3
Jaipur, the capital of Rajasthan, is Midway between Delhi and Jaipur,
a fasci nating city with numerous the characterful little city of Alwar is
attractions, ranging from the considered the tradi tional northern
exu berant bazaars of the old Pink gateway to Rajasthan. It boasts an
City to the City Palace and the Hawa imposing fort with ram parts cresting
Mahal, whose fivestorey façade is a series of hills above the town, and
one of India’s most famous sights. an absorb ing old city palace below.
Ornate design of
Jaipur’s Hawa Mahal
072-073_Top_10_Delhi.indd 73 5/25/17 9:50 AM
Delhi Area by Area
Humayun’s Tomb, a stunning
example of Mughal architecture
074-075_Top_10_Delhi.indd 74 5/25/17 9:47 AM
New Delhi 76
Old Delhi 84
South of the Centre 92
South Delhi 98
074-075_Top_10_Delhi.indd 75 5/25/17 9:47 AM
76 ❯❯ Delhi Area by Area
New Delhi
The city of New Delhi, built by the British between
1911 and 1931, still serves as the hub of Delhi’s
increasingly huge and formless urban expanse.
The area divides into two parts. The first is
Connaught Place – a huge, vibrant circular plaza
of Georgian crescents, that is home to shops,
restaurants and other businesses, and is located
at the commercial and residential heart of the
city. The second, some 2 km (1 mile) south down
Janpath, is the great Imperial thoroughfare
of Rajpath, linking a triumphalist sequence of
Raj-era landmarks, including India Gate and the
Rashtrapati Bhavan. The area is also home to
almost all the city’s finest museums, plus a few
relics dating back to the years before British rule.
Sunga Dynasty sculpture, National Museum
AREA MAP OF NEW DELHI
0 metres0 metres 800800
RajivRajiv ShivajiShivaji
0 yards0 yards 800800 SHAHEED BHAGAT SINGH MARG MARG ChowkChowk BridgeBridge UPADHYAYA MARG
SHAHEED BHAGAT SINGH
DEEN DAYAL
DEEN DAYAL
UPADHYAYA MARG
MANDIR MARG U DHYAN MARG K A L I B A R I R O A D BHAI VIR SINGH MARG BHAI VIR SINGH MARG Stadium The ParkThe Park SANSAD MG TOLSTOY MARG BarakhambaBarakhamba
MANDIR MARG
BABA KHARAK SINGH MARG
BABA KHARAK SINGH MARG
RoadRoad
Shivaji
Shivaji
U DHYAN MARG
Stadium
SANSAD MG
HotelHotel
K A L I B A R I R O A D
TOLSTOY MARG
SHANKAR ROAD
SHANKAR ROAD
MOTHER TERESA
BARAKHAMBA ROAD
MOTHER TERESA ASHOKA ROAD The Imperial The Imperial JanpathJanpath KASTURBA MandiMandi
BARAKHAMBA ROAD
HouseHouse
CRESCENT
CRESCENT
PARK STREET
PARK STREET
ASHOKA ROAD
Talkat
Talkatoraora PANDIT PANT MARG PANDIT PANT MARG Patel Patel
KASTURBA
BuddhaBuddha Gardens Chowk BHAGWAN DAS ROAD
Chowk
FEROZ SHAH RD
Gardens
JayantiJayanti JANPATH JANPATH
MOTHER TERESA CRESCENT NORTH AVENUE NORTH AVENUE RAISINA ROAD ASHOKA ROAD TILAK MARG TILAK MARG M AT H U R A R PRAGATI PRAGATI PragatiPragati
MOTHER TERESA CRESCENT
ParkPark TALKATORA ROAD SANSAD MARG SANSAD MARG FEROZ SHAH RD GANDHI MARG C O P E R N I C U S M A R G C O P E R N I C U S M A R G IndraprasthaIndraprastha
BHAGWAN DAS ROAD
RAISINA ROAD
TALKATORA ROAD
MaidanMaidan
MAIDANMAIDAN
GANDHI MARG
ASHOKA ROAD
CHURCH ROAD
DR RAJENDRA PRASAD
M AT H U R A R
CentralCentral
MughalMughal
PURANA QILA RD O A D
RashtrapatiRashtrapati GardensGardens CHURCH ROAD SecretariatSecretariat DR RAJENDRA PRASAD RD RD August KrantiAugust Kranti PURANA QILA RD O A D
GardensGardens RAFI AHMED RAFI AHMED MaidanMaidan
RA JPAT
RAISINA
PRESIDENT'SPRESIDENT'S RAISINA HILLHILL KIDWAI MARG KIDWAI MARG RA JPATH H JANPATH JANPATH MAN SINGH ROAD MAN SINGH ROAD National National BHAIRON MARGBHAIRON MARG
Stadium Stadium
ESTATE ESTATE Children’sen’s
Childr
ROAD ROAD MAULANA AZAD ROAD Park Park SHERSHAH ROAD ROAD INDRAPRASTHAINDRAPRASTHA
MAULANA AZAD ROAD
DALHOUSIE ROAD DALHOUSIE MOTILAL NEHRU MARG AKBAR ROAD Purana QilaPurana Qila
DALHOUSIE ROAD
AKBAR ROAD
SHERSHAH
SHAH JAHAN ROAD
MAN SINGH RD
SOUTH AVENUE
UdyogUdyog
SARDAR PATEL
SARDAR PATEL MOTHER TERESA CRESCENT SOUTH AVENUE THYAGARAJA MARG BhawanBhawan Mahal HotelMahal Hotel MAN SINGH RD SHAH JAHAN ROAD PANDARA ROAD PANDARA ROAD D R Z AK I R HUS S
DALHOUSIE MOTILAL NEHRU MARG
MARG
MARG
THYAGARAJA MARG
The TajThe Taj
AKBAR ROAD
KUSHAK ROAD
D R Z AK I R HUS S
4 km4 km KUSHAK ROAD KRISHNA MENON AKBAR ROAD PARKPARK NationalNational
MARG
MARG
MOTHER TERESA CRESCENT
RAJAJI MARG AKBAR ROAD TUGHLAQ RD TEES JANUARY MARG J A N PAT H J A N PAT H MarketMarket SUBRAMANIAM Delhi Golf M AT H U R A R O A D M AT H U R A R O A D ZoologicalZoolog
RAJAJI MARG
BHARTI MARG IAM
KRISHNA MENON
SUBRAMAN
BHARTI MARG
ParkPark
HUMAYUN RD
HUMAYUN RD
PRITHVIRAJ RD
KhanKhan
PRITHVIRAJ RD LINKSLINKS Course
AKBAR ROAD
TUGHLAQ RD
KAUTILYA
KAUTILYA
MARG
MARG
PANDARA A I N MA R G
PANDARA A I N MA R G
Delhi Golf
GOLFGOLF
TEES JANUARY MARG
TEEN MURTI MARG TEEN MURTI MARG
TEEN MURTI MARG TEEN MURTI MARG
Course
076-079_Top_10_Delhi.indd 76 5/25/17 9:50 AM
New Delhi ❮❮ 77
New Delhi plaza occupies a pivotal
position in the layout of
the new city, with roads
radi ating off in every
direction. Built around a
central park, it is sur
rounded by colon naded
white NeoClassical
buildings, their shaded
arcades hosting shops
and restau rants.
National
Neo-Classical buildings at Connaught Place 2
Museum
Connaught Place (CP)
1 This is India’s largest and most
impressive museum with a vast
MAP F6 • Rajiv Chowk Metro
The commercial hub of New Delhi, collection of artifacts from prehistory
Connaught Place, or CP (now to the 20th century. Highlights
officially rechristened Rajiv Chowk), include a superb selection of ancient
was built between 1929 and 1933 to finds from the Harappan Civilization
a design by British architect Robert and an excellent collection of Indian
Tor Russell. The enormous circular miniatures, alongside Hindu and
Buddhist sculp ture. Also on display
AREA MAP OF NEW DELHI is an array of wonderful Chola
bronzes including a famous statuette
0 metres0 metres 800800 of the dancing Shiva (see pp32–5).
RajivRajiv ShivajiShivaji
0 yards0 yards 800800 SHAHEED BHAGAT SINGH MARG MARG ChowkChowk BridgeBridge UPADHYAYA MARG Top 10 Sights 3
India Gate
SHAHEED BHAGAT SINGH
see pp77–9
At the eastern end of Rajpath
Places to Eat
DEEN DAYAL
DEEN DAYAL
UPADHYAYA MARG
MANDIR MARG
MANDIR MARG U DHYAN MARG K A L I B A R I R O A D BHAI VIR SINGH MARG BHAI VIR SINGH MARG Stadium The ParkThe Park SANSAD MG TOLSTOY MARG BarakhambaBarakhamba see p83 stands India Gate, built in 193
BABA KHARAK SINGH MARG
BABA KHARAK SINGH MARG
RoadRoad
Shivaji
Shivaji
U DHYAN MARG
a design by architect Edwin Lutyens,
Places to Shop
Stadium
SANSAD MG
see p81
who also designed the Cenotaph on
HotelHotel
K A L I B A R I R O A D
TOLSTOY MARG
SHANKAR ROAD
SHANKAR ROAD
BARAKHAMBA ROAD
BARAKHAMBA ROAD
MOTHER TERESA ASHOKA ROAD The Imperial The Imperial JanpathJanpath KASTURBA MandiMandi The Best of the Rest London’s Whitehall. The monu ment
MOTHER TERESA
see p80
was originally known as the All India
HouseHouse
CRESCENT
CRESCENT
War Memorial, built to commemorate
Bars and Cafés
PARK STREET
PARK STREET
ASHOKA ROAD
KASTURBA
Talkatoraora PANDIT PANT MARG PANDIT PANT MARG Patel Patel see p82 the 90,000 soldiers of the British
Talkat
BuddhaBuddha Gardens Chowk BHAGWAN DAS ROAD
Chowk
FEROZ SHAH RD
Gardens
JayantiJayanti JANPATH JANPATH Indian Army killed during World War I
MOTHER TERESA CRESCENT
MOTHER TERESA CRESCENT NORTH AVENUE NORTH AVENUE RAISINA ROAD ASHOKA ROAD TILAK MARG TILAK MARG M AT H U R A R PRAGATI PRAGATI PragatiPragati Unknown Soldier, or Amar Jawan
ParkPark TALKATORA ROAD SANSAD MARG SANSAD MARG FEROZ SHAH RD GANDHI MARG C O P E R N I C U S M A R G C O P E R N I C U S M A R G IndraprasthaIndraprastha and the Afghan Wars. The Tom
BHAGWAN DAS ROAD
RAISINA ROAD
TALKATORA ROAD
Jyoti, was added in 1971 (see p20).
MaidanMaidan
GANDHI MARG
MAIDANMAIDAN
ASHOKA ROAD
DR RAJENDRA PRASAD
CHURCH ROAD
M AT H U R A R
CentralCentral
PURANA QILA RD O A D
August Kr
India Gate
GardensGardens
RashtrapatiRashtrapati MughalMughal CHURCH ROAD SecretariatSecretariat DR RAJENDRA PRASAD RD RD August Krantianti PURANA QILA RD O A D Imposing
Maidan
GardensGardens RAFI AHMED RAFI AHMED Maidan
RAISINA
RA JPAT
PRESIDENT'SPRESIDENT'S RAISINA HILLHILL KIDWAI MARG KIDWAI MARG RA JPATH H JANPATH JANPATH MAN SINGH ROAD MAN SINGH ROAD National National BHAIRON MARGBHAIRON MARG
Stadium Stadium
ESTATE ESTATE Children’sen’s
Childr
ROAD ROAD MAULANA AZAD ROAD Park Park SHERSHAH ROAD ROAD INDRAPRASTHAINDRAPRASTHA
MAULANA AZAD ROAD
DALHOUSIE ROAD
DALHOUSIE ROAD DALHOUSIE MOTILAL NEHRU MARG AKBAR ROAD Purana QilaPurana Qila
AKBAR ROAD
SHERSHAH
SHAH JAHAN ROAD
MAN SINGH RD
SOUTH AVENUE
UdyogUdyog
SARDAR PATEL
SARDAR PATEL MOTHER TERESA CRESCENT SOUTH AVENUE THYAGARAJA MARG BhawanBhawan Mahal HotelMahal Hotel MAN SINGH RD SHAH JAHAN ROAD PANDARA ROAD PANDARA ROAD D R Z AK I R HUS S
DALHOUSIE MOTILAL NEHRU MARG
MARG
MARG
THYAGARAJA MARG
The TajThe Taj
AKBAR ROAD
KUSHAK ROAD
D R Z AK I R HUS S
4 km4 km KUSHAK ROAD KRISHNA MENON AKBAR ROAD PARKPARK NationalNational
MOTHER TERESA CRESCENT
MARG
MARG
RAJAJI MARG AKBAR ROAD TUGHLAQ RD TEES JANUARY MARG J A N PAT H J A N PAT H MarketMarket SUBRAMANIAM Delhi Golf M AT H U R A R O A D M AT H U R A R O A D ZoologicalZoological
RAJAJI MARG
BHARTI MARG IAM
KRISHNA MENON
BHARTI MARG
SUBRAMAN
ParkPark
HUMAYUN RD
HUMAYUN RD
PRITHVIRAJ RD GOLFGOLF Course
KhanKhan
PRITHVIRAJ RD
AKBAR ROAD
TUGHLAQ RD
KAUTILYA
KAUTILYA
MARG
MARG
PANDARA A I N MA R G
PANDARA A I N MA R G
Delhi Golf
TEES JANUARY MARG
TEEN MURTI MARG TEEN MURTI MARG
TEEN MURTI MARG TEEN MURTI MARG
Course
LINKSLINKS
076-079_Top_10_Delhi.indd 77 5/25/17 9:50 AM
78 ❯❯ Delhi Area by Area
Chowk, forms Delhi’s most
impressive open space: a huge
sprawling boulevard flanked by
lawns, with dramatic views of the
Imperial monuments in every
direction (see pp20–21).
Indira Gandhi
6
Memorial Museum
MAP M5 • 1 Safdarjung Road • 2301
0094 • Open 9:30am–5pm Tue–Sun
Formerly home to both Indira Gandhi
Observatory at the Jantar Mantar and her son, Rajiv, this moving
museum is also the site of Indira’s
Jantar Mantar
4 assassi nation (1984) by two of her
Sikh body guards. There is a wide-
MAP F7 • Sansad Marg
• Janpath Metro • Open sunrise– ranging array of dis plays on Indira’s
sunset daily • www.jantarmantar.org years in power, offering a glimpse
• Adm into both her achievements and
The Jantar Mantar was one of five lapses into quasi-dictatorship, as
outdoor astronomical observa tories well as an extensive collection of
constructed by the Maharaja of Rajiv’s per sonal effects.
Jaipur, Jai Singh II (the others are in
Jaipur, Mathura, Varanasi and Ujjain).
Built in 1724, it consists of four huge, CURSE OF THE CITY BUILDERS
strangely shaped stone instru ments; An old Persian prophecy claims that
these includ e the Samrat Yantra, a “Whoever builds a new city in Delhi
kind of monumental sundial centred will lose it”. Several rulers of the city
on an enormous stone stair case, and have experienced the force of this
the Misra Yantra, shaped like a huge curse, but the most spectacular fall
inverted heart. The instru ments from grace was that of the British,
who spent around 20 years building
were designed to perform various New Delhi, only to be forced out within
functions, including measuring exact 14 years of the city’s completion.
solar and lunar calendars and
tracking the move ments of stars
Rashtrapati Bhavan
and accurate planetary positions. 7
The centre piece of New Delhi,
Rajpath
5 generally regarded as Lutyens’
Originally named Kingsway,
master piece and India’s finest
Rajpath is the ceremonial axis of example of Colonial-era archi tecture,
Lutyens’ New Delhi and links most is now the residence of the President
of the major landmarks of the “new of India. The work is a remarkable
city”. It runs all the way from India synthesis of Neo-Classical and
Gate via Vijay Chowk up Raisina Indian styles, exemplified by the
Hill, between the two Secretariat huge dome, said to have been
Buildings and on to Rashtrapati model led partly on the Pantheon
Bhavan. The main section, in Rome and partly on the Buddhist
between India Gate and Vijay stupa at Sanchi (see p21).
Rashtrapati Bhavan
076-079_Top_10_Delhi.indd 78 5/25/17 9:50 AM
New Delhi ❮❮ 79
Lakshmi Narayan
8 A DAY IN NEW DELHI
Mandir
MAP D6 • Mandir Marg, near Connaught Place
Connaught Place • R K Ashram Marg Jantar Mantar
Metro • Open 4:30am–noon & 2–9pm
daily • No cameras or mobile Sansad
Bhavan
phones allowed Secretariat AUTO-RICKSHAW India Crafts
Built in 1938 by industrialist BD Birla, Buildings Rajpath Gate Museum
this temple is the biggest and most
striking of the various shrines along Rashtrapati National
Museum
Mandir Marg, with a clustered mass Bhavan AUTO-RICKSHAW
of red-and-orange shikharas (towers) Khan
centred on a large marble court yard. Market
Shrines to Durga and a meditating MORNING
statue of Shiva stand within.
Begin your day exploring the
varied exhibits at the engaging
Crafts Museum (see pp28–9), then
walk along to the eastern end of
Rajpath and India Gate (see p77).
Continue on to the National
Museum (see p77) to spend a
couple more hours browsing its
superb range of Indian artifacts.
Stop for a snack at the museum’s
small café, or alternatively take
an auto-rickshaw down to Khan
Market, which has a wide variety
of restaurants and cafés from
which to choose. Have lunch at
Lakshmi Narayan Mandir SodaBottleOpenerWala (see p97)
or Latitude 28 Café (see p97).
Crafts Museum
9 Delhi’s most entertaining AFTERNOON
and engaging museum offers an Continue walking west along the
alternative take on the nation’s stately expanse of Rajpath, as
cultural heritage. In contrast to the Herbert Baker’s Neo-Classical
classic artworks at the National Secretariat Buildings (see p80)
Museum, the empha sis here is on come gradually into view. Carry
local artisanal traditions, show casing on to the top of Raisina Hill for a
an incred ibly varied – and often peek at Lutyens’ master piece,
quirky – range of cultural, religious Rashtrapati Bhavan; visits can be
arranged by calling in advance
and architectural traditions from (see p21). From here, catch an
across the subcontinent (see pp28–9). auto-rickshaw, or walk north via
Sansad Bhavan (see p80), to the
Gandhi Smriti
0 18th-century outdoor astrono-
mical park of Jantar Mantar.
MAP N5 • 5 Tees January Marg
• 2301 2843 • Open 10am–5pm Tue– Take your time inspecting its
Sun • www.gandhismriti.gov.in intriguing planetary instru ments,
then walk another 100 m (110 yd)
It was here in 1948 that a Hindu north to Connaught Place (see
fundamentalist assassinated p77), the heart of commercial
Mahatma Gandhi. The museum New Delhi. Finish the day with
serves simultaneously as an a snack or a drink at one of the
absorbing exposition of Gandhi’s area's many restau rants, bars
life and work and also as a shrine and cafés, such as 1911, Triveni
to one of the 20th-century’s most Tea Terrace, Q’BA, Agni, Aqua,
inspirational leaders. Stone foot steps ICH or Cha Bar (see p82).
mark the route of Gandhi’s last walk.
See map on pp76–7
076-079_Top_10_Delhi.indd 79 5/25/17 9:50 AM
80 ❯❯ Delhi Area by Area
The Best of the Rest
Jawaharlal
Secretariat
1 5
Nehru
Buildings
MAP M3 • Raisina Hill Memorial
Herbert Baker’s Museum
grandiose Secretariat MAP L5 • Teen Murti
Buildings, framing Marg • 2341 4666
Raisina Hill, are two • Open 10am–5pm
of the city’s finest Tue–Sun
examples of epic The former home
Neo-Classical style. Crest, Secretariat of India’s first prime
Buildings minister, with a series
Hanuman
2 preserved exactly as they were
of period interiors
Mandir
MAP F7 • Baba Kharak Singh Marg in Nehru’s time.
• timings vary; check website • www.
National Gallery of
hanumantempledelhi.com 6
This temple boasts a richly decorated Modern Art (NGMA)
interior, full of religious atmosphere. MAP Q3 • Jaipur House • 2338 6111
• Open 10am–5pm daily • www.
Gurudwara Bangla Sahib
3 ngmaindia.gov.in
This gallery has an outstanding range
MAP E7 • Ashoka Road • Open
daily • www.banglasahib.org of Colonial and modern Indian art.
The Bangla Sahib is Delhi’s most
National Philatelic
important Sikh gurudwara (temple). 7
Museum
Agrasen’s Baoli
4 MAP N2 • Dak Bhawan, Sardar Patel
Chowk, Sansad Marg • 2303 6447
MAP G7 • Off Hailey Road,
Kasturba Gandhi Marg • Open daily • Open 10am–5pm Mon–Fri
This spectacularly deep baoli A philatelic paradise, with displays
(stepwell), now dry, is thought to covering every stamp issued by India
have been built by Raja Agrasen since independence, as well as some
(or Ugrasen) in the 14th century. older, but well-preserved, exhibits.
Sansad Bhavan
8
MAP M2 • Lok Sabha Marg
• Closed to the public
Designed by Lutyens, this edifice
is home to the Indian parliament.
Cathedral Church
9
of the Redemption
MAP L2 • 1 Church Road, North
Avenue • Open 9am–6pm daily
This is Delhi’s grandest Anglican
church and one of the city’s last
major Raj-era build ings (1931).
St Martin’s Church
0
MAP A6 • Off Cariappa Marg,
near Dhaula Kuan and NH8
Built in 1930, this was one of
Britain’s architectural ventures. It is
Agrasen’s impressive baoli one of Delhi’s most unusual churches.
080-081_Top_10_Delhi.indd 80 5/25/17 9:47 AM
New Delhi ❮❮ 81
Places to Shop
Tribes India
The Shop
1 5
MAP F6 • 10 Regal Building,
MAP F7 • Gallery 2, Rajiv
Connaught Place • 2334 0971 • Open Gandhi Handicrafts Bhavan, Baba
10am–8pm Mon–Sat, noon–7pm Sun Kharak Singh Marg • 2334 1282
The Shop is an excellent place to buy • Open 10:30am–7pm Mon–Sat
beautiful ethnic Indian homewares A store that stocks some lovely tribal
and unique life style products. handi crafts from all over the country.
Soma
6
MAP F6 • K-44
Connaught Place • 2341 2966
• Open 10am–8pm daily
Wonderful dresses, fabrics
and home furnishings, block-
printed by hand using a
traditional Indian method, that
dates from ancient times.
Kamala
7
MAP F7 • Gallery 1,
Rajiv Gandhi Handicrafts
Bhavan, Baba Kharak Singh
Marg • 2374 3321 • Open
The Shop, ideal for gifts 10am–6:30pm Mon–Sat
Kamala offers exotic jewellery, folk
People Tree
2 paintings, pottery, bric-a-brac and
hand woven and printed fabrics.
MAP F6 • 8 Regal Building,
Parliament Road, Connaught Place •
State Emporia Complex
2374 4877 • Open 10am–8pm Mon–Sat 8
Imaginative and colourful apparel MAP F6 • Pallika Kendra, Baba
created by a group of artists and Kharak Singh Marg • Shivaji Stadium
design ers committed to social and Metro • Open 11am–6:30pm Mon–Sat
envi ronmental causes. Visitors can explore and shop from
an array of regional merchandise,
Central Cottage
3 from paintings to crafts, from saris
Industries Emporium
to jewellery, and much more.
MAP F7 • Jawahar Vyapar
Rikhi Ram
Bhavan, Janpath • 2332 0439 9
• Open 10am–7pm daily MAP F6 • G-8 Connaught Place
This is a government initiative set up • Open 11:30am–8pm Mon–Sat
to pre serve and develop handicrafts Musicians such as the late Ravi
from all over the country. Shankar have bought their sitars and
tablas from this long-established
Khadi
4 firm, still crafting traditional musical
instruments the old-fashioned way.
MAP F6 • Khadi Gramodyog
Bhavan, 24 Regal Building,
M Ram and Sons
Connaught Place • 2336 0902 0
• Open 10:30am–7:15pm Mon–Sat MAP F6 • E-21 Connaught
Another government initiative Place • Open 10:30am–8pm daily
supporting the pro duction of Indian This excellent tailoring firm, in
fab rics, natural cos metics, organic business since 1939, can make up
food, pottery products and hand- a bespoke suit in no time at all, for a
made paper. Ideal for gifts. fraction of department store prices.
See map on pp76–7
080-081_Top_10_Delhi.indd 81 5/25/17 9:47 AM
82 ❯❯ Delhi Area by Area
Bars and Cafés
The glamorous outdoor space, overlooking the pool, at Aqua
Aqua
India Coffee House (ICH)
1 6
MAP F7 • The Park, 15
MAP F7 • 2nd floor, Mohan
Parliament Street • 3080 6378 Singh Place Shopping Complex, Baba
• Open noon–12:30pm daily Kharak Singh Marg, off Connaught
A glamorous alfresco bar and dining Place • 2334 2994 • Open
space complete with a pool and chic 10pm–1am Wed–Sat
white-curtained pavil ions. The venerable ICH serves excellent
south Indian coffee at low prices.
Rick’s
2 Q’BA
MAP P4 • The Taj Mahal Hotel,
1 Man Singh Road • 2302 6162 7
MAP F6 • E-42/43 Connaught
• Open 4pm–1am daily Place • 4517 3333 • Open noon–
Everyone’s favourite bar in town, midnight daily
Rick’s is understated and intimate, The terrace has fairy lights and a
and it has an extensive wine list. great view of Connaught Place.
1911
Agni
3 8
MAP F7 • The Imperial,
MAP F7 • The Park, Parliament
1 Janpath • 4111 6604 • Open 11:30– Street, Connaught Place • 2374 3000
12:45am daily • Open 5pm–12:30am daily
Replete with old-world charm, 1911 Loud and fun, Agni is a great place
is best enjoyed on a sunny after noon for bhangra (Punjabi dance).
over a chilled beer. Legends of India
Tea Terrace
Triveni Tea Terrace
4 9
MAP F6 • N-56 Connaught Place,
MAP Q1 • Triveni Kala Sangam,
Tansen Marg • 99715 66904 • Open Outer Circle • 4301 2322 • Open
10am–7:30pm Mon–Sat 12:30–11:45pm daily
Sharing space with four art galleries, This is a charm ing, old-fashioned
this is a charming spot for relaxing. spot for after noon tea, or a beer.
Kitty Su
Cha Bar
5 0
MAP G6 • Lalit Hotel, Tolstoy
MAP G7 • 148 Barakhamba
Road, Statesman House, Connaught Marg, off Barakhamba Road • 3310
Place • 2376 6083 • Open 9am–6pm 5224 • Open 10pm–1am Wed–Sat
Mon–Sat There is mainly electronic music at
Housed in the Oxford Bookstore, the this vibrant hotel nightclub with DJs,
Cha Bar offers an exten sive tea list. regular concerts and parties.
082-083_Top_10_Delhi.indd 82 5/25/17 9:47 AM
New Delhi ❮❮ 83
Places to Eat
Fire
PRICE CATEGORIES 7
For a meal for one, inclusive of taxes and MAP F7 • Park Hotel,
service charge but not alcohol. 15 Sansad Marg • 2374 3000 • Open
12:30–2:45pm & 7:30–11:45pm daily
₹ under ₹500 ₹₹ ₹500–1,500 • ₹₹₹
₹₹₹ over ₹1,500
A smart, contemporary restaurant
serving fine modern Indian cuisine,
Wasabi by Morimoto
1 with a seasonal menu, light in
summer, fiery hot in winter.
MAP P4 • The Taj Mahal Hotel,
1 Man Singh Road • 2302 6162
Daniell’s Tavern
• Open 7–11:30pm Mon–Fri, 12:30– 8
2:45pm & 7–11:30pm Sat & Sun • ₹₹₹ MAP F7 • The Imperial,
This swanky restaurant serves 1 Janpath • 2334 1234
excellent Japanese food (see p65). • Open 6:30–11:45pm daily
• ₹₹
Andhra Bhawan
2 This is a lovely, elegant place,
inspired by the travels of the late
MAP P2 • 1 Ashoka Road
• 2338 2031 • Open 8–10:30am, 18th-century artists Thomas and
noon–3pm & 7:30–10pm daily • ₹ William Daniell, and serving up
The finest spicy Andhra food, served plates of first-rate Indian cuisine.
at extremely reasonable prices. Varq
Spice Route
3 9
MAP P4 • The Taj Mahal Hotel,
MAP F7 • The Imperial,
1 Man Singh Road • 2302 6162
1 Janpath • 2334 1234 • Open • Open 12:30–2:45pm & 7:30–
12:30–2:30pm & 7–11:30pm daily 11:30pm daily • ₹₹₹
A stylish, relaxed restaurant that
• ₹₹₹
Fine cuisine inspired by places along serves truly delicious Indian food. Try
the Spice Route (see p64). the lamb cooked in a saf fron crust
or the excellent crispy Calicut prawns.
Veda
4
MAP F6 • H-27 Connaught
Place • 4151 3535 • Open noon–
2:30 pm & 6–11:30pm daily • ₹₹
An opulent restaurant that serves
top-notch food – from the murgh
malai tikka to Parsi sea bass.
Rajdhani
5
MAP F6 • 9-A Atmaram
Mansion, Scindia House, Connaught
Place • 4350 1200 • Open noon–
3:30pm & 7–11pm daily • ₹
Serving up almost-authentic Gujarati
food, this no-frills place is great for a Dining space at stylish retaurant Varq
vegetarian thali. Saravana Bhavan
Legends of India
6 0
MAP F7 • 46 Janpath • 2331
MAP F6 • N-56 Connaught
7755 • Open 8am–11pm daily • ₹
Place • 4301 2322 • Open 12:30– When it comes to authentic South
11:45pm daily • ₹₹ Indian food in Delhi, Saravana
A quiet place amid the bustle, this Bhavan is the place to go. The
serves fairly decent Indian food. mini-tiffin is great (see p64).
See map on pp76–7
082-083_Top_10_Delhi.indd 83 5/25/17 9:47 AM
84 ❯❯ Delhi Area by Area
Old Delhi
The city of Shahjahanabad was originally built by Mughal emperor
Shah Jahan between 1638 to 1648 to replace the previous Mughal
capital of Agra (see pp36–9). Now generally known as Old
Delhi, is the most rewarding part of the city. This
is Delhi at its most traditional and atmospheric: a
fascinating labyrinth of tiny alleyways, colourful
bazaars and a profusion of historical monuments and
religious shrines, including two of Delhi’s landmark
attractions: the magnificent Red Fort and the
grand Jama Masjid. There are further – albeit more
modest – points of interest north of Old Delhi in
the quiet Civil Lines district, where the British first
established themselves in the city, and along the
Shakti Sthal, lush Northern Ridge, where they sought refuge
Raj Ghat during the opening months of the 1857 Uprising.
AREA MAP OF OLD DELHI
600 metres Civil Lines Top 10 Sights
RANI JHA N S I ROAD RAJ NIWA S MAR G NARAYAN MG see pp85–7
CIVIL
LINES
Oberoi Maidens Hotel
KRIPA
Places to Eat
Northern
Ridge CH BRAHAN PRAKASH M A RG see p89
The Best of the Rest
NITYANAND MARG LALA HARDEV SAH AI MARG GT KARNAL RD see p88
KASHMIRI
Tis Hazari
Kashmiri
Gate GATE 0 metres 800
KACHEHRI RD NICHOLSON ROAD R I N G R O A D 0 yards 800
Yamuna River
ZORAWAR SIN GH MARG
SHA M NATH MARG LOTHIAN ROAD
HAMILTON ROAD
Old Delhi
Sadar S H YA M A P R A S A D M U K H E R J I M A R G
BAHADURGARH RD Bazaar
Chandni
Chowk H C SEN RD
MAHARAJA
AGGARSAIN MG
KHARI BAOLI RD
Lal Qila
SADAR NAYA BAZAAR C H A N D N I C H O W K
BAZAAR
Red
IDGAH ROAD
Fort M A H AT M A G A N D H I M A R G
NAI SARAK
BALLIMARAN
CHEL PURI
NABI KARIM ROAD Q U TA B R O A D SHRADDHANAND CHAWRI BAZAAR RD Jama Masjid RAJA RAM MARG
N
BAZAAR
LALKUAN BAZAAR RD
MARG
Chawri SITARAM BAZAAR RD
Bazaar MEENA E TA J I SUBHASH MA RG ANSARI ROAD
CHURI WALAN GALI
DESH BANDHU G UPTA ROAD
SANG TRASHAN ARYA NAGAR ROAD EL MSFORD R OAD BHAV BHUTTI MARG ASAF ALI Ramlila ASAF ALI ROAD DARYAG
ROAD
New
ROAD
Delhi
CH
PAHAR
Ground
BAZAAR CHITLI QABAR MARG
RAMDWARA ROAD GANJ VIVEKANAND ROAD TAGORE ROAD M I R D A R D M A R G
BASANT ROAD
TURKMAN MARG
J AWA H A R L A L N E H R U M A R G
Delhi Gate
JAHANGIR RD
084-087_Top_10_Delhi.indd 84 5/25/17 9:47 AM
Old Delhi ❮❮ 85
Old Delhi 1
Raj Ghat
MAP J5 • Mahatma Gandhi
Marg • Open sunrise–sunset daily
These spacious gardens, set back
from the banks of the Yamuna River,
are best known as the place where
the funeral rites of many of modern
India’s most important leaders were
per formed. Most notable among
these is perhaps Gandhi, who was
cre mated here in 1948, and whose
simple marble memorial still draws
large crowds of reverent visitors.
Other memorials dot the lawns, A market stall at Chandni Chowk
marking the places of the funeral
sites of other national leaders, Fort due west to the Fatehpuri Masjid
including Shanti Vana (Jawaharlal (see p15), passing a range of shops
Nehru), Shakti Sthal (Indira Gandhi) and shrines en route. The road’s
and Vir Bhumi (Rajiv Gandhi). name, meaning Moonlit Square,
is said to refer to a square that
St James’ Church
2 once stood about half way along the
road, and which was known for the
MAP G2 • Sham Nath Marg
• Kashmiri Gate Metro • Open moon lit reflections in the canal that
9am–1pm & 2–5pm daily ran through its centre (see pp14–15).
This little NeoClassical gem was
Red Fort
built by Colonel James Skinner 4
in 1836 – a perfect period piece, The enormous Red Fort
constructed in an unusual cruciform served as the residence of the
pattern with a large dome over the Mughal emperors from its com
central crossing. In and around pletion in 1648 through to the 1857
the church stand memorials to some Uprising, when the last emperor,
of the city’s most colourful early Bahadur Shah Zafar II, was exiled
British resi dents, including William to Burma and the British took
Fraser, Thomas Metcalfe (see p27) over the fort, demo lishing many
and Colonel James Skinner himself. of its build ings. What is left now
is only a shadow of the original
Chandni Chowk
3 complex, but the surviving pavilions
and gardens still give a sense of
Old Delhi’s main thoroughfare,
and one of the most colourful streets the sophisticated life styles of India’s
in the city, Chandni Chowk runs dead most powerful and cultured rulers
straight from the gates of the Red (see pp12–13).
The imposing Red Fort
084-087_Top_10_Delhi.indd 85 5/25/17 9:47 AM
86 ❯❯ Delhi Area by Area
Bazaars of Old Delhi
5 and is popularly known as the Ghata
Although much of the physical Masjid. Zinat ul Nisa was buried here
fabric of Old Delhi is fairly modern – in 1711, but her tomb was appar ently
the result of dam age sustained removed by the British after the
during the 1857 Uprising and Uprising, when the mosque was
20th-century rebuild ing – the entire taken over for military use.
area retains its original, labyrinthine
Jama Masjid
street plan and much of its tradi- 7
tional atmos phere. Different areas The Jama Masjid is
are devoted to different trades and unquestionably the most beautiful
crafts – from jewellery and wedding of Old Delhi’s Mughal monu ments,
gifts to fireworks and even some looming high above the surround ing
spare car parts (see pp66–7). streets on a natural hillock and
dominating all views of the old city.
The approach from Meena Bazaar
up to the eastern gate, facing the
Red Fort, is partic ularly dramatic,
although visitors now have to enter
via the rather less imposing gateway
on the western side (see pp16–17).
Ajmeri Gate
8
MAP G4 • Ajmeri Gate Road
• Chawri Bazaar Metro
Marooned on a small island amidst
busy traffic, this is perhaps the most
Atmospheric bazaars of Old Delhi impressive of the four surviving
gateways that once punctuated the
Zinat ul Masjid
6 old city walls. The fine old madrasa
and Mosque of Ghazi-ud-Din, built
MAP J4 • Ghata Masjid Road,
Daryaganj • Taxi or rickshaw • Open in classic Mughal style, stand just
sunrise–sunset daily opposite. Elsewhere in the old city,
Hidden away in the streets of the Delhi, Kashmiri and Turkman
Daryaganj, this lovely mosque gates also survive in good condition –
was commissioned in 1707 by the last is named after the revered
Aurangzeb’s daughter, Zinat ul Nisa, Sufi saint, Hazrat Shah Turkman.
Ornate onion domes and arches at the Zinat ul Masjid mosque
084-087_Top_10_Delhi.indd 86 5/25/17 9:47 AM
Old Delhi ❮❮ 87
A DAY IN OLD DELHI
Khari
Baoli Chandni
Chowk Haldiram’s
Red
Fatehpuri Kanwarji’s Fort
Masjid
Ballimaran
Mirza Ghalib Jama
Haveli Masjid
Chawri
Bazaar Karim's
The rounded Lal Mandir temple
MORNING
Lal Mandir
9 Start your day at the Red Fort
Delhi’s most important Jain
temple, Lal Mandir is located directly (see p85) – arrive early to avoid
the crowds. Spend a couple of
opposite the Red Fort, at the hours exploring the complex;
southern end of Chandni Chowk. stop at the food stall outside the
Founded under Shah Jahan for the main gate for a quick bite. Exit
Jain sol diers in his army, the present the fort and walk up Chandni
building dates from the 1870s. The Chowk (see p85), stopping by the
various attrac tions en route. Stop
colourful interior is adorned with at Haldiram’s (see p89), halfway
dozens of dimin utive statues of up the road, for a tasty Indian
various Jain tirthankaras. The fast-food lunch, then cross the
temple’s well-known bird hospital road to Kanwarji’s, established
stands next door, caring for hundreds in 1850 and Delhi’s oldest sweet
of hungry and injured pigeons and shop since the closure of the
other birds, in tiny cages (see p14). famed Ghantewala’s, founded in
1790 and once purveyor of sweets
to the Mughal emperors.
HAZRAT SHAH TURKMAN AFTERNOON
Delhi’s Turkman Gate is named after
a bayabani (“jungle dwelling”) Sufi Carry on up Chandni Chowk to
hermit, Hazrat Shah Turkman (d. 1240), the Fatehpuri Masjid (see p15),
who lived nearby when the area was then on to the remarkable spice
still forest. Despite his seclusion, his market of Khari Baoli (see p66),
fame as a holy man spread, and many just beyond. From here, you can
sought him out. His tiny dargah (tomb either retrace your steps down
and mosque) is hidden away in the Chandni Chowk, then turn right
back alleys. Razia Sultan, a devoted down Dariba Kalan, or alterna-
follower of his, was buried nearby. tively head down Ballimaran to
visit the haveli of the great Urdu
poet Mirza Ghalib (see p88) and
Tomb of Razia Sultan
0 then Chawri Bazaar, through the
heart of Old Delhi’s bazaars.
MAP G4 • Off Sitaram Bazaar
Road • Chawri Bazaar Metro • Open Much of the fun lies in simply
wan dering at will; aim to get lost
sunrise–sunset daily at least once. Whichever route
The tomb occupies an atmospheric you take, be at the Jama Masjid
roofless enclosure that was built here towards sunset, when this superb
long before the city that now surrounds mosque is at its most memor-
able, and the views over the old
it for its proximity to Turkman’s tomb. city and Red Fort are at their
The only female monarch until Queen best. On leaving the mosque,
Victoria to rule a vast swathe of the you will be within a few steps
sub con tinent, Razia was loved by of Karim’s (see p89), one of Old
the people but hated by the aristo cracy, Delhi’s culi nary institutions and a
who resented a woman ruler and perfect spot for an early dinner.
overthrew her after a four-year reign.
See map on p84
084-087_Top_10_Delhi.indd 87 5/25/17 9:47 AM
88 ❯❯ Delhi Area by Area
The Best of the Rest
Qudsia Bagh
1 contains the grave of Brigadier-
MAP G1 • Lala Hardev Sahai
General John Nicholson, who led the
Marg • Open sunrise–sunset daily British assault on Delhi in 1857.
These are lovely, peaceful wooded
Pir Ghaib
gardens, just north of the old city, 6
and home to a couple of very fine MAP F1 • Ridge Road
buildings dat ing back to the gardens’ • Open daily
founda tion during the 18th century. Rising up north of Old Delhi is the
long, forested Northern Ridge,
Qudsia dotted with British and Tughlaq
Bagh monuments, such as the ruins of Pir
Ghaib, a hunting lodge built by Feroz
Shah Tughlaq in the 14th century.
Chauburji Masjid
7
MAP B4 • Magazine Road
• Open sunrise–sunset daily
A Tughlaq-era ruins in the Northern
Ridge, this structure was built as a
tomb around 1345, and sub sequently
Mirza Ghalib Haveli
2 converted into a mosque.
MAP G3 • Qasimjan Street,
Feroz Shah Kotla
off Ballimaran • Open 10am–5pm 8
Tue–Sun MAP J6 • Bahadur Shah Zafar
The former home of the great Urdu Marg • Open sunrise–sunset daily
poet Mirza Ghalib (1797–1869) has All that remains of Sultan Feroz
been carefully restored and is now a Shah Tughlaq’s erstwhile citadel –
simple museum, with a few exhibits now popularly thought to be the
on the writer’s life and times. abode of djinns (spirits).
Hauzwali Mosque
National Gandhi
3 9
Museum
MAP G5 • Chandni Chowk
• Chandni Chowk Metro • Open MAP J5 • Jawaharlal Nehru Marg,
sunrise–sunset daily opposite Raj Ghat • 2331 0168
This little blue mosque is one • Open 9:30am–5:30pm Tue–Sun
of the few surviving buildings from (closed Mon & public hols)
the time of Suri ruler Sher Khan. • www.gandhimuseum.org
At the southern end of the
Gauri Shankar
4 expansive Raj Ghat gardens, this
Mandir
engaging little museum offers
MAP H3 • Chandni Chowk some endearingly personal
One of Old Delhi’s largest and insights into the Mahatma’s
most popular Hindu temples remark able life and works.
(see p15), dedicated to Shiva
Ashoka Column
(Shankar) and Parvati (Gauri). 0
MAP E1 • Rani Jhansi
Nicholson’s
5 Road • Open daily
Cemetery
At the southern end of
MAP G1 • Lala Hardev the Nothern Ridge is
Sahai Marg • Open one of the city’s two
daily Ashokan columns (see
This beautiful, quiet p51), from the reign of
Colonial-era cemetery Ashoka Column Ashoka (r. 269–232 BC).
See map on p84
088-089_Top_10_Delhi.indd 88 5/25/17 9:47 AM
Old Delhi ❮❮ 89
Places to Eat
The Garden Terrace
PRICE CATEGORIES 7
For a meal for one, inclusive of taxes and MAP G1 • Oberoi Maidens,
service charge but not alcohol. 7 Sham Nath Marg, Civil Lines • 2397
5464 • Open daily 7am–11pm
₹ under ₹500 ₹₹ ₹500–1,500 • ₹₹
₹₹₹ over ₹1,500
Spilling into a lovely courtyard,
The Garden Terrace, part of the
Karim’s
1 venerable Maidens Hotel, is an ideal
place for nursing a cup of coffee.
MAP H4 • 16 Gali Kababiyan,
Matia Mahal, Jama Masjid • 2326 4981
Paranthe Wali Gali
• Open 9am–12:45pm daily • ₹ 8
This Delhi institution has been doling MAP G3 • Opposite Natraj
out delicious Mughlai food for over Restaurant, 1396 Chandni Chowk
half a century (see p65). • Open 11am–11pm daily • ₹
The “alley of parantha-makers” is
Gujarati Samaj
2 a real foodie’s delight, offer ing
an overwhelming variety of this
MAP F1 • 2 Raj Niwas Marg,
Civil Lines • 2398 1796 • Open delicious stuffed Indian bread.
6am–10:30am, 11:30am–3pm
& 7pm–10:30pm daily • ₹
A family-run restaurant that serves
delicious, fuss-free Gujarati food.
Haldiram’s
3
MAP G3 • 1454/2 Chandni
Chowk • 4768 5111 • Open
9am–11pm daily • ₹
Good Indian street food and sweets
prepared in hygienic conditions.
Moti Mahal
4
MAP H5 • 3703 Netaji Subhash
Marg, Daryaganj • 2327 3661 • Open
11:30am–midnight daily • ₹₹
Dating back to Independence, this
restaurant claims to have invented Old-style charm at Chor Bizarre
the famous butter chicken. Chor Bizarre
Embassy Restaurant
5 9
MAP H5 • Hotel Broadway,
MAP G1 • 13 Alipur Road,
4/15A Asaf Ali Road • 4366 3600
Civil Lines • 2399 3061 • Open noon– • Open noon–3pm & 7:30–10:45pm
11:30pm daily • ₹₹ daily • ₹₹
A delightful old-world restaurant One of the oldest restaurants in Old
reminiscent of Colonial clubs, Delhi, Chor Bizarre is famous for its
serving standard North Indian fare. superb Kashmiri cuisine (see p64).
Kake di Hatti
The Curzon Room
6 0
MAP G1 • Oberoi Maidens,
MAP G3 • 654 Church Mission
7 Sham Nath Marg, Civil Lines • 2397 Road, Fatehpuri, Chandni Chowk
5464 • Open 12:30–2:30pm & 7:30– • 99107 22254 • Open 8am–1am
11:45pm daily • ₹₹₹ daily • ₹
Dig into the sumptuous lunch buffet This place draws flocks of locals to
at this elegant Raj-style restaurant. mop up its legend ary daal makhni.
Following pages The Diwan-i-Aam audience hall at Delhi’s Red Fort
088-089_Top_10_Delhi.indd 89 5/25/17 9:47 AM
090-091_Top_10_Delhi.indd 90 5/25/17 9:47 AM
090-091_Top_10_Delhi.indd 91 5/25/17 9:47 AM
92 ❯❯ Delhi Area by Area
South of the Centre
The area south of New Delhi, now home to some of the city’s most
upmarket suburbs, boasts a superb swathe of Mughal (and some
Sultanate) monuments. At the top of most visitors’ lists is the
magnificent Humayun’s Tomb, the first great masterpiece of
Mughal architecture, though there are also stand-out attractions
nearby at the wonderfully atmospheric religious enclave of
Nizamuddin, the beautiful parklands and historic monu ments
of the Lodi Gardens, Safdarjung’s Tomb, and the rugged citadel of
Purana Qila, while just across the Yamuna River
lies Akshardham Temple, India’s most
extravagant modern Hindu shrine.
Khan-i-Khanan’s Tomb
1
MAP R7 • Mathura Road, south
of Humayun’s Tomb • Open sunrise–
sunset daily • Adm
This grandiose tomb is the burial
place of Abdur Rahim, Akbar’s prime
minister, who died in 1626, although
it may have been built for his wife,
who died in 1598. The tomb has four
grand iwans and a bulbous central
dome surrounded by chattris, rather
like a sketch for the Taj Mahal minus
Khan-i-Khanan’s Tomb the minarets.
AREA MAP OF SOUTH OF THE CENTRE
SHAH JAHAN ROAD
MAULANA AZAD ROAD
DALHOUSIE ROAD
DALHOUSIE ROAD MAULANA AZAD ROAD
AKBAR ROAD
Top 10 Sights UdyogUdyog AKBAR ROAD
PANDARA ROAD
see pp92–5 THYAGARAJA MG DUPLEIX RD BhawanBhawan MotilalMotilal SHAH JAHAN ROAD Ya m u n a R i v e r
DUPLEIX RD
SARDAR PATEL MG
THYAGARAJA MG
Places to Eat MOTHER TERESA CRESCENT SOUTH AVENUE SOUTH AVENUE NehruNehru MAN SINGH RD MAN SINGH RD PANDARA ROAD PANDARAPANDARA
PARKPARK
PlacePlace
see p97 SARDAR PATEL MG DR DR
BHARTI MARG
Ya m u n a R i v e r
Places to Shop RAJAJI MARG RAJAJI MARG M A H A T M A G A N D H I M A R G
MOTHER TERESA CRESCENT
see p96 J A N P A T H J A N P A T H HUMAYUN RD BHARTI MARG
TEEN MURTI MARG
TEEN MURTI MARG TEEN MURTI MARG TEES JANUARY M AT H U R A R O A D MARG M AT H U R A R O A D
HUMAYUN RD
A K B A R R O A
Sundar NagarSundar Nagar
Khan Market
MARG
TEES JANUARY
MARG
0 metres0 metres 800800 A K B A R R O A D TUGHLAQ ROAD D Khan MarketKhan Market Khan Market DelhiDelhi MarketMarket 2.5 km2.5 km
TEEN MURTI MARG
P RITHVIRA J ROAD
TEEN MURTI LANE
SUBRAMANIAM ZAKIR HUSSAIN
GolfGolf
0 yards0 yards 800800 TUGHLAQ ROAD CourseCourse
DR APJ ABDUL KALAM ROAD
DR APJ ABDUL KALAM ROAD
SUBRAMANIAM ZAKIR HUSSAIN MARG
ITC MauryaITC Maurya SHANTI PATH SHANTI PATH KAUTILYA MARG TEEN MURTI LANE LOK KALYAN MG LOK KALYAN MG P RITHVIRA J ROAD GOLFGOLF SundarSundar
LINKSLINKS
AMRITA SHERGILL MG
HotelHotel PA N CHS HE E L MA RG N I T I M A R G N I T I M A R G KAMAL ATATURK MARG SAFDARJUNG ROAD AMRITA SHERGILL MG LODILODI MAHARISHI RAMAN MARG MAHARISHI RAMAN MARG
M A H A T M A G A N D H I M A R G
KAUTILYA MARG
PA N CHS HE E L MA RG
CHANAKYAPURI
CHANAKYAPURI
KAMAL ATATURK MARG
SAN MA RTIN MARG
SAN MA RTIN MARG MARY M CHANDRAGUPTA MARG CHANDRAGUPTA MARG NYAYA MARG NYAYA MARG SH ANTI PATH SH ANTI PATH N I T I M A R G N I T I M A R G Golf Golf
ESTATE ESTATE
MillenniumMillennium
L O D I R O A D
SAFDARJUNG ROAD
TUGHLAQ RD
Lok KalyanLok Kalyan
ParkPark
Hazrat
NIZAMUDDINNIZAMUDDIN
Hazrat
L O D I R O A D
Nizamuddin
Nizamuddin
JESUS AND
NehruNehru
MARY MARG
JESUS AND ARG
V I N AY M A R G
Jawaharlal
Polo Polo
Jawaharlal
Nehru Stadium
Nehru Stadium
SATYA MARG
SATYA MARG
JAWAHARLAL NEHRU
MATHURA ROAD
RaceRace
NationalNational ParkPark V I N AY M A R G GroundGround CourseCourse LODI COLONYLODI COLONY BHISHAM PITA MAH MARG JAWAHARLAL NEHRU
STADIUM MARG
RoseRose SATYA SADAN CourseCourse AUROBIND O MARG AUROBIND O MARG STADIUM MARG
JANGPURA
GardenGarden JOR BA GH ROAD OAD JANGPURA
JOR BA GH R
N I T I M A R G
N I T I M A R G SafdarjungSafdarjung Jor Bagh JawaharlalJawaharlal B A B A B ANDA S I N G H B AHADUR S E T U
SATYA SADAN
B A B A B ANDA S I N G H B AHADUR S E T U
Jor Bagh
Jangpura
Jangpura
FOURTH AVENUE
NehruNehru
FOURTH AVENUE
5 km5 km AerodromeAerodrome 1.5 km1.5 km StadiumStadium
BHISHAM PITA MAH MARG
SECOND AVENUE
SECOND AVENUE
092-095_Top_10_Delhi.indd 92 5/25/17 9:50 AM
South of the Centre ❮❮ 93
Purana Qila
2
MAP R3 • Mathura Road
• Pragati Maidan Metro • Open
sunrise–sunset daily • Adm
The sixth city of Delhi, the Purana
Qila (see p51) was begun by
Humayun and completed by his rival
Sher Shah Suri. Its large, rugged
walls stretch for over a mile and
enclose a large swathe of park land
dotted with various build ings. The
two most notable are the imposing
Qala-i-Kuhna Masjid, and the more
deli cate Sher Mandal, an unusual A baby hippo at the Zoological Park
octa gonal pavi lion that was used by
Humayun as a library and observ atory. Spread out over expan sive park land,
it provides a pleasant, sympathetic
National Zoological Park
3 environment for its captive ani mals,
MAP R4 • Mathura Road, near
as well as a peaceful refuge for the
Purana Qila • Pragati Maidan Metro city’s human population. It is also a
• Open Apr–Oct: 9am–4:30pm Sat– great spot for a weekend picnic.
Thu; Nov–Mar: 9am–4pm Sat–Thu;
Lodi Gardens
closed Fri • Adm • www.nzpnew 4
delhi.gov.in The beautiful Lodi Gardens
The largest in India, Delhi’s popular are among Delhi’s most attractive
zoo is home to around 2,000 animals, retreats, offering a beguiling combi-
including national treasures such as nation of nature and culture, with an
rhinos, elephants and Bengal tigers, idyllic wooded landscape dotted with
and a good selection of wildlife from fine tombs dating from the Lodi and
the Americas, Australia and Africa. Sayyid dynasties (see pp30–31).
AREA MAP OF SOUTH OF THE CENTRE
SHAH JAHAN ROAD
MAULANA AZAD ROAD
AKBAR ROAD
DALHOUSIE ROAD
DALHOUSIE ROAD BhawanBhawan MAULANA AZAD ROAD
AKBAR ROAD
MAN SINGH RD
UdyogUdyog
PANDARA ROAD
DUPLEIX RD
SARDAR PATEL MG MOTHER TERESA CRESCENT SOUTH AVENUE SOUTH AVENUE THYAGARAJA MG DUPLEIX RD MotilalMotilal MAN SINGH RD SHAH JAHAN ROAD PANDARA ROAD PANDARAPANDARA M A H A T
SARDAR PATEL MG
NehruNehru
THYAGARAJA MG
PARKPARK
PlacePlace
DR
DR
BHARTI MARG
Ya m u n a R i v e r
MOTHER TERESA CRESCENT
TEEN MURTI MARG TEEN MURTI MARG RAJAJI MARG RAJAJI MARG TEES JANUARY J A N P A T H J A N P A T H HUMAYUN RD BHARTI MARG M AT H U R A R O A D MARG M AT H U R A R O A D
TEEN MURTI MARG
HUMAYUN RD
A K B A R R O A
Sundar NagarSundar Nagar
Khan Market
MARG
MARG
TEES JANUARY
0 metres0 metres 800800 A K B A R R O A D TUGHLAQ ROAD D Khan MarketKhan Market Khan Market DelhiDelhi MarketMarket 2.5 km2.5 km
P RITHVIRA J ROAD
TEEN MURTI MARG
SUBRAMANIAM ZAKIR HUSSAIN
TEEN MURTI LANE
GolfGolf
0 yards0 yards 800800 TUGHLAQ ROAD CourseCourse
LOK KALYAN MG
DR APJ ABDUL KALAM ROAD
DR APJ ABDUL KALAM ROAD
SUBRAMANIAM ZAKIR HUSSAIN MARG
ITC MauryaITC Maurya SHANTI PATH SHANTI PATH KAUTILYA MARG TEEN MURTI LANE LOK KALYAN MG P RITHVIRA J ROAD GOLFGOLF SundarSundar
AMRITA SHERGILL MG
HotelHotel PA N CHS HE E L MA RG N I T I M A R G N I T I M A R G KAMAL ATATURK MARG SAFDARJUNG ROAD AMRITA SHERGILL MG LODILODI MAHARISHI RAMAN MARG MAHARISHI RAMAN MARG LINKSLINK
M A H A T M A G A N D H I M A R G
KAUTILYA MARG
PA N CHS HE E L MA RG
CHANAKYAPURI
CHANAKYAPURI
KAMAL ATATURK MARG
SAN MA RTIN MARG
SAN MA RTIN MARG MARY M CHANDRAGUPTA MARG CHANDRAGUPTA MARG NYAYA MARG NYAYA MARG SH ANTI PATH SH ANTI PATH N I T I M A R G N I T I M A R G Golf Golf Marg
ESTATE ESTATE
MillenniumMillennium
L O D I R O A D
SAFDARJUNG ROAD
TUGHLAQ RD
Lok KalyanLok Kalyan
ParkPark
MAX MUELLER MARG
NIZAMUDDINNIZAMUDDIN
Hazrat
Hazrat
L O D I R O A D
Nizamuddin
Nizamuddin
JESUS AND
NehruNehru
JESUS AND ARG
MARY MARG
V I N AY M A R G
Polo Polo
Jawaharlal
Jawaharlal
Nehru Stadium
Nehru Stadium
SATYA MARG
SATYA MARG
MATHURA ROAD
JAWAHARLAL NEHRU
RaceRace
NationalNational ParkPark V I N AY M A R G GroundGround CourseCourse LODI COLONYLODI COLONY BHISHAM PITA MAH MARG JAWAHARLAL NEHRU
RoseRose SATYA SADAN CourseCourse AUROBIND O MARG AUROBIND O MARG STADIUM MARG
STADIUM MARG
JANGPURA
JOR BA GH R
GardenGarden JOR BA GH ROAD OAD JANGPURA
N I T I M A R G SafdarjungSafdarjung Jor Bagh JawaharlalJawaharlal B A B A B ANDA S I N G H B AHADUR S E T U
N I T I M A R G
SATYA SADAN
B A B A B ANDA S I N G H B AHADUR S E T U
Jor Bagh
Jangpura
Jangpura
FOURTH AVENUE
FOURTH AVENUE
NehruNehru
5 km5 km AerodromeAerodrome 1.5 km1.5 km StadiumStadium
BHISHAM PITA MAH MARG
SECOND AVENUE
SECOND AVENUE
092-095_Top_10_Delhi.indd 93 5/25/17 9:50 AM
94 ❯❯ Delhi Area by Area
Safdarjung’s Tomb, set in a charbagh-style garden
Safdarjung’s Tomb
5 modern Hindu temple in India.
MAP M6 • Airforce Golf Course, The huge com plex is centred on
at the intersection of Safdarjung an extrav agant shrine, ringed by
Road & Aurobindo Marg • Taxi, auto- 148 elephant stat ues; inside is an
rickshaw or Jor Bagh Metro • Open impressive-looking golden figure
sunrise–sunset daily • Adm of Bhagwan Shri Swaminarayan, in
This mausoleum was built in 1754 for whose honour the temple was built.
Safdarjung (1708–54), the Nawab of The temple hosts exhibitions and even
Awadh and one of the most important has a fountain water show at sunset.
Mughal nobles during the reigns of
Nizamuddin
Muhammad Shah and Ahmad Shah 7
Bahadur. A good example of late- MAP R6 • Taxi or Jangpura
Mughal design, the tomb is a large Metro (Hazrat Nizamuddin metro is
and floridly deco rated sand stone scheduled to open in 2017) • Open
structure with a bulbous dome set 24 hrs • Hope Project reservations:
in a charbagh-style garden. 2435 7081
This atmospheric religious enclave
grew up around the tomb of the great
LAST RITES, DELHI-STYLE Sufi saint Sheikh Nizamuddin Auliya
No other city in the world boasts (1238–1325), and is busy with pilgrims
as copious a range of mausoleums as at all hours, with perform ances of
Delhi – from certain angles the city devotional qawwali singing after dark.
can look like a kind of enormous It is also home to a clus ter of Mughal
necr opolis. Oddly enough, such monu ments and the graves of various
buildings run directly contrary to
Koranic orthodoxy, which forbids the
construction of elaborate funerary
monuments – a prohibition that was
ignored by the city’s rulers.
Akshardham Temple
6
MAP C5 • Taxi or Akshardham
Metro • Open 9:30am–6:30pm Tue–
Sun • Electronic equipment not
allowed • www.akshardham.com
Opened in 2005, this is perhaps
the largest and most spectacular Objects on sale at Nizamuddin
092-095_Top_10_Delhi.indd 94 5/25/17 9:50 AM
South of the Centre ❮❮ 95
notable individuals, including poet and A DAY SOUTH OF THE
musician Amir Khusrau (1253–1325), CENTRE OF DELHI
Shah Jahan’s daughter Jahanara Akshardham (4 km)
and the great Urdu poet Mirza Ghalib Khair ul Manazil Purana
(see p88). Hope Project, a local NGO, Masjid Qila
Khan
runs evening walking tours of the Market AUTO-RICKSHAW Baci
adjoining Nizamuddin village, a fasci- Humayun’s
nating way to learn about the area. Lodi Threesixty Tomb
Degrees
Gardens
National Rail Museum
8 National Nizamuddin
Bonsai Park
MAP U1 • Satya Marg,
Tomb
Chanakyapuri • Dhaula Kuan Metro Safdarjung’s Dargah
• 2688 1816 • Open 9:30am–5:30pm
Tue–Sun • Adm and charge for video MORNING
and train rides It is possible to see most of the
This museum is a shrine to India’s major sights covered in this
fascination with all things pertain ing section in one long, albeit very
to the train. Among the highlights busy, day. Note that you will need
are the lavish car riages of local and to pick up auto-rickshaws to get
between them, or hire a taxi or
foreign royals, including the Prince of auto-rickshaw for the day. The
Wales and the Maharaja of Mysore. highlights of the Akshardham
Temple can be seen in two hours,
but for a more leisurely visit,
allow half a day. Alternatively, you
could pick from the following
selec tion for a more relaxed tour.
Start your day at the imposing
Safdarjung’s Tomb, then walk
a short distance down the road
to the Lodi Gardens (see p93).
Explore the various tombs that
Locomotive, National Rail Museum dot the beautiful parkland – don’t
miss the lovely bonsai garden.
Khair ul Manazil Masjid
9 Take lunch at the Lodi Garden
Restaurant (see p31) or at the
MAP Q4 • Mathura Road,
opposite Purana Qila • Pra gati Maidan classy Basil and Thyme (see p97)
in nearby Sunder Nagar.
Metro • Open sunrise–sunset daily
Just across the road from the AFTERNOON
Purana Qila lies the impressive,
though now rather derelict, Khair Take an auto-rickshaw to the
ul Manazil Masjid, built in 1562 by brooding Purana Qila (see p93),
then cross the road to visit the
Maham Anga, the powerful wet- Khair ul Manazil Masjid. From
nurse of Akbar. The mosque is a here, you can get another auto-
classic exam ple of early Mughal rickshaw down to Humayun’s
archi tecture, its low and rather Tomb (see p18). Explore the
stocky façade reminiscent of the tomb and gardens and the other
earlier Sultantate style. mausoleums that dot the vast
complex, then walk across
Humayun’s Tomb
0 the road to the wonderful
little dargah at Nizamuddin.
One of the greatest of all
Mughal garden tombs, this superb For dinner you could head to
the nearby Baci or Perch
mausoleum is one of Delhi’s finest (see p97), before or after
monuments and a magnificent attending the evening qawwali
memorial to the personable but session at the dargah.
erratic Humayun, the second Mughal
emperor (see pp18–19).
See map on pp92–3
092-095_Top_10_Delhi.indd 95 5/25/17 9:50 AM
96 ❯❯ Delhi Area by Area
Places to Shop
The Bookshop
Silverline
1 6
MAP N7 • 13/7 Main Market,
MAP P5 • 7-A Khan Market
Jor Bagh • 2469 7102 • 2464 3017
The Bookshop is lovingly stocked The walls of this busy shop are lined
with a wide range of reading matter, with beautiful jewellery in antique,
from well-thumbed classics to ethnic and contem porary designs.
pristine new arrivals. Amrapali
Dilli Haat
2 7
MAP P5 • 39 Khan
Market • 4175 2024
MAP V1 • Opposite
INA Market • 2611 9055 The exclusive collection
• Adm here includes exquisite
A daily open-air market contemporary jewellery,
run by Delhi Tourism, designer, enamel, ethnic
with several stalls selling and antique pieces.
wonderful arts and crafts – Amrapali
Ladakh Jeweller’s
not to mention food – from bracelet 8
every single state in India. MAP R4 • 10 Sundar
Nagar Market • 2435 5424
Good Earth
3 A lovely shop that specializes in
beautiful ethnic Indian handcrafted
MAP P5 • 9-ABC Khan Market
• 2464 7175 jewellery in gold and silver.
This luxurious store stocks a range
Ogaan Closet
of exclusively designed dining pro- 9
ducts, high-quality linen and some MAP P5 • 77 Khan Market
lovely home-decor items. • 4175 7220
This shop has a splendid ensemble
Mittal Tea House
4 of clothes, accessories and jewel lery
by various Indian designers. It also
MAP P7 • 8-A Lodi Colony
Market • 2461 5709 provides a platform for Indian design
The pleasant Mittal Tea House and stocks some luxurious clothes
stocks beautifully packed Darjeeling, that are exquis ite in cut and design.
Assam and Nilgiri teas, as well as
Anokhi
Kangra and Kashmiri green teas. 0
MAP P5 • 32 Khan Market
Bharany’s
5 • 2460 3423
Specializing in contemporary crafted
MAP R4 • 14 Sundar Nagar
Market • 2435 8528 textiles with roots in Jaipur, Anokhi
Bharany’s takes pride in every one stocks ethnic and western wear.
of its handcrafted jewellery items. It
also has a fine collection of textiles. Anokhi’s colourful designs
096-097_Top_10_Delhi.indd 96 5/25/17 9:47 AM
South of the Centre ❮❮ 97
Places to Eat
PRICE CATEGORIES
For a meal for one, including taxes and
service charge but not alcohol.
₹ under ₹500 ₹₹ ₹500–1,500
₹₹₹ over ₹1,500
OTW (On the Waterfront)
1
MAP Q6 • The Lodhi, Lodi Road
• 4363 3333 • Open noon–3pm &
7–11:45pm daily • ₹₹₹
The OTW exudes chic style and serves
excellent Asian and European cuisine.
Perch
2
MAP P5 • 71, 1st Floor,
Khan Market • 83739 76637 • Open
11:30am–1:30am daily • ₹₹₹
A sophisticated coffee and wine
bar with great European cuisine. Dum Pukht’s glamorous dining room
The coffee sangria is a must try. Dum Pukht
Baci
3 7
MAP K5 • ITC Maurya, Sardar
MAP R4 • 23 Sundar Nagar
Patel Marg • 2611 2233 • Open
Market • 4150 7445 • Open 11am– 7am–11:45pm daily • ₹₹₹
midnight daily • ₹₹ Slow-cooked dum (steam casserole)
One of the most charming spots in dishes from Lucknow, served amidst
town, Baci has a strong Italian menu. tastefully glitzy surroundings.
Basil and Thyme
Sagar Ratna
4 8
MAP R4 • 28 Sunder Nagar
MAP L6 • The Ashok, 50-B
Market • 4378 7722 • Open Chanakyapuri • 2688 8242 • Open
11am–11pm daily • ₹₹ 8am–11pm daily • ₹
Run by Bhicoo Manekshaw, the first This place serves simple, delicious
Indian woman to have completed vegetarian South Indian meals.
the advanced Cordon Bleu cookery
Coast Café
course, this airy restaurant offers 9
good European cuisine. MAP U2 • H-2, Hauz Khas
Village • 3310 5045 • Open noon–
Latitude
5 1am daily • ₹₹
With classy interiors, this restaurant
MAP P5 • Good Earth,
Khan Market • 2462 1013 • Open serves curries from the coasts of
11am–11pm daily • ₹₹₹ India and varieties of fish and chicken
A stylish café that focuses on great stews. Cocktails are delicious too.
contemporary dishes with a twist. SodaBottleOpenerWala
Bukhara
6 0
MAP P5 • 73 Khan Market,
Subramaniam Bharti Marg • 3310
MAP K5 • ITC Maurya, Sardar
Patel Marg • 2611 2233 • Open 12:30– 5665 • Open 11:30am–11pm daily
2:45pm & 7–11:45pm daily • ₹₹₹ • ₹₹
This is one of the world’s top Indian A quirky, old-fashioned Bombay
restaurants, serving superb North- Parsi restaurant, successfully
West Frontier cui sine (see p65). re-created in Delhi (see p65).
See map on pp92–3
096-097_Top_10_Delhi.indd 97 5/25/17 9:47 AM
98 ❯❯ Delhi Area by Area
South Delhi
The upwardly mobile suburbs of South Delhi are where visitors
will find what makes modern Delhi tick, with a string of upmarket
neighbour hoods, suave restaurants and glitzy modern malls. Despite
its contemporary appearance, however, South Delhi was home to the
city’s earliest settle ments, and boasts many of its most atmospherically
time-warped monu ments. Most of these
Baha’i Temple date back to the Delhi sultans, whose
various forts, mosques and
wonderful mausoleums
still stand scat tered
majestically amongst
modern suburbia.
The highlight is the
extra ordinary Qutb
Minar complex and
the adjacent Mehrauli
Archaeological Park,
while there are further
memo rable attractions
at both Tughlaqabad
and Hauz Khas.
AREA MAP OF SOUTH DELHI
RAO TULA RAM MG INAINA SOUTH
RAO TULA RAM MG
M A HATMA GANDH I RO AD (RING ROAD)
SOUTH
Top 10 Sights SAROJINISAROJINI EXTENSION Defence Colony MarketDefence Colony Market
EXTENSION
NAGARNAGAR
see pp99–101 SANGAM MG MA H AT M A GAND H I ROAD (RING ROAD) AD) M A HATMA GANDH I RO AD (RING ROAD)
SANGAM MG
COLONY
Lajpat NagarLajpat Nagar
MA H AT M A GAND H I ROAD (RING RO
Places to Eat (Indian) Hyatt Regency HotelHyatt Regency Hotel DEFENCE
DEFENCE
AUGU ST KRA NTI MARG
see p104 AIIMSAIIMS COLONY
600 metres600 metres GREENGREEN MoolchandMoolchand
Places to Eat (Global) PARKPARK MATHURA RD
Okhla Okhla
KALKA DEVI MG
see p105 VASANTVASANT TAMIL SANGAM M G AUGU ST KRA NTI MARG KALKA DEVI MG C APTAIN GAUR MARG
VIHARVIHAR
N Block
Green Park
Places to Shop Basant Lok MarketBasant Lok Market AFR ICA AVENUE AFR ICA AVENUE Green Park N Block Kailash ColonyKailash Colony
Market
Market
C APTAIN GAUR MARG
TAMIL SANGAM M G
see p102 OkhlaOkhla
Nehru PlaceNehru Place
Bars and Cafés O L OF PALME MA RG RG Hauz Khas VillageHauz Khas Village SIRISIRI RAI PATH LALA LAJPAT NSICNSIC
MATHURA RD
RAI PATH
DeerDeer
ShahpurShahpur
LALA LAJPAT
MARG AT A U R O B I N D O M A R G
see p103 BABA GANGANATH MG ParkPark Jat MarketJat Market FORTFORT TITO MARG JOSIP BROZ JOSIP BROZ GREATER Nehru PlaceNehru Place MandirMandir
Kalkaji
GAMAL ABDEL NASSER MARG HO C HI MINH MG
GAMAL ABDEL NASSER MARG HO C HI MINH MG Kalkaji
N E L S ON M ANDELA MAR G JawarharlalJawarharlal SHAHEED JEET SINGH MARG Hauz Hauz PANCHSHEELPANCHSHEEL KAILASH IS U DARS H AN MUNJAL M G
N E L S ON M ANDELA MAR G
BABA GANGANATH MG
GREATER
O L OF PALME MA
KAILASH
Govind PuriGovind Puri
TITO MARG
Khas Khas
AR UN A A S AF AL I MARG
NehruNehru
PARKPARK
GEETA NJALI MA R G
MAI N ROAD KALKAJI
MAI N ROAD KALKAJI
UniversityUniversity
LAL B AHAD UR S H A S T R I MARG
SHAHEED JEET SINGH MARG
IS U DARS H AN MUNJAL M G
Sanjay VanSanjay Van
VASANT KUNJVASANT KUNJ AR UN A A S AF AL I MARG ANUVRAT A U R O B I N D O M A R
P RESS ENCLAVE MARG
MALVIYAMALVIYA
P RESS ENCLAVE MARG
NAGARNAGAR
G U R U R AVI DA S MAR G
MA ANANDMAYEE MG
MA ANANDMAYEE MG
Malviya Nagar
Malviya Nagar
OKHLA ESTATE MARG
SAKETSAKET
ALAKNANDA B A DARPUR ROAD
Jahanpanah
MAND
City Forest
City Forest
Saket Saket
MEHRAULIMEHRAULI M EHRAULI - B ADARPUR ROAD MAR G IR MAND MAR G IR MAHAR A SHI BAL MIKI MARG Jahanpanah G U R U R AVI DA S MAR G
BABU JAGJIVAN R AM R
BABU JAGJIVAN R AM ROADOAD MARG
VILLAGEVILLAGE TUGHLAQABADAD
M EHRAULI - B ADARPUR ROAD
TUGHLAQAB
ABDU L GAFFA R KHAN MARG
ABDU L GAFFA R KHAN MARG
MAHAR A SHI BAL MIKI MARG
0 kilometres0 kilometres 2 2 ANUVR Garden ofGarden of NEB SARAI ROAD NEB SARAI ROAD MEHRAULI - B ADARPU R ROAD OAD
Qutab
Qutab
MEHRAULI - B ADARPU R R
0 miles0 miles 1 1 Minar Minar Five SensesFive Senses
098-101_Top_10_Delhi.indd 98 5/25/17 2:31 PM
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Discover the best of everything India's vibrant capital city has to offer, from the impressive Red Fort to the splendid Taj Mahal in nearby Agra. Six easy-to-follow itineraries explore the city's most interesting areas — from colorful bazaars to peaceful parks and gardens—while reviews of the best restaurants, shops, and hotels in Delhi will help you plan your perfect trip.
True to its name, DK Eyewitness Travel Guide: Top 10 Delhi covers all the major sights and attractions in
easy-to-use "top 10" lists that help you plan the vacation that's right for you.
• Itineraries help you plan your trip.
• Top 10 lists feature off-the-beaten-track ideas, along with standbys like the top attractions, shopping,
dining options, and more.
• Comprehensive laminated pull-out map includes color-coded design, public transportation maps, and street
indexes.
• Maps of walking routes show you the best ways to maximize your time.
• Additional maps marked with sights from the guidebook are shown on inside cover flaps, with selected
street index and metro map.
The perfect pocket-size travel companion: DK Eyewitness Travel Guide: Top 10 Delhi.
Series Overview: DK Eyewitness Travel Guide Top 10 are handy travel guides that take the work out of
planning a trip. Packed with amazing ideas, informative maps, insider tips, and useful advice, DK's Top 10
guides lead you to the very best your destination has to offer. The pocket size make these the perfect guide
to take on vacation. Discover the history, art, architecture, and culture of your destination through Top 10
lists, from the best museums, bars, and sights to the places to avoid.
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