(DK Eyewitness) Top 10 Travel Guide - Brussels, Bruges, Antwerp & Ghent

Art Nouveau Buildings in Brussels ❮❮ 49


building (see p51). He employed
Paul Hankar (1859–1901), a key TOP 10 ARCHITECTURAL
Art Nouveau architect, to build his WONDERS
house and studio in 1897. The
façade combines iron, stone
and brick for a highly individual
decorative effect.
Musée des Instruments
7
de Musique, Brussels
Art Nouveau was also called “Style
Liberty”, after the famous London
store. Brussels’ “Old England” store
was named to echo this vogue. The MAS, Antwerp
building houses the Museum of
Musical Instruments (see pp20–21). 1 Jeruzalemkapel, Bruges
A Byzantine-influenced church
inspired by a pilgrimage to the
Holy Land (see p95).
2 Palais de Justice, Brussels
Joseph Poelaert threw every
Neo-Classical style in the book at
this vast and domineering monument
to justice (see p76).
3 Pavillon Chinois, Tour Japonaise,
Brussels
MAP G1 • Closed until further notice
Two beautiful oriental buildings rise up
Wonderfully ornate Le Falstaff incongruously from the Parc de Laeken.
Le Falstaff
8 4 Serres Royales, Brussels
Magnificent royal greenhouses
MAP B3 • Rue Henri Maus 19,
1000 BRU (Brussels) • 02 511 57 59 built in the 1870s (see p86).
This famous restaurant and drinking 5 Hôtel Saint-Cyr, Brussels
Brussels’ weirdest Art Nouveau
palace opposite the Bourse dates building (see opposite).
from 1903, and still powerfully evokes
the era in which it was created. The 6 Centraal Station, Antwerp
interior is rich in Art Nouveau detail. Louis Delacenserie’s station is a pot-
pourri of Neo-Classical styles (see p65).
Comic Arts Museum
9 7 The Palais Stoclet, Brussels
MAP H2 • Avenue de Tervuren 279,
Victor Horta designed the
Magasins Waucquez, a textile shop, 1150 BRU (Woluwe Saint-Pierre)
Built 1905-11, with murals by Gustav
in 1903. Rescued in the 1970s, it has Klimt, this radical private mansion was
found new life as the famous comic- the architectural shocker of its day.
strip museum (see pp26–7). 8 MAS, Antwerp
Hôtel Solvay
0 A striking and innovative museum,
completed in 2011 (see p102).
Avenue Louise 224,
1050 BRU (Ixelles) 9 The Atomium, Brussels
A giant model of a crystal
The 33-year-old Victor Horta was of iron, created for the 1958
still fairly unknown when he was Universal Exposition (see p83).
commissioned to design this house 10 Basilique Nationale du
by the industrialist Ernest Solvay. Sacré-Coeur, Brussels
Its free-flowing form, with swirling There is something strangely
wrought iron and a remarkably fluid soulless about this massive
use of stonework, established Horta 20th-century church (see p86).
as a master of the Art Nouveau style.

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50 ❯❯ The Top 10 of Everything

Museums


Musées Royaux d’Art
1
et d’Histoire, Brussels
Belgium’s collection of historic
national and international treasures
is housed in this palatial building.
It includes an impressive array
of medieval church treasures (in
the Salle aux Trésors), tapestries,
Art Nouveau sculpture and
jewellery, antique costumes
and archaeo logical finds. One
of three museums in the Parc
du Cinquantenaire (see p84). Treasures at Musée Charlier, Brussels
Musée des
Musée Charlier,
2 4
Instruments de
Brussels
Musique, Brussels A rare opportunity to see inside
Housed in a classic Art Nouveau one of Brussels’ maisons de maître
department store, perched on a (mansions). As well as a fine
ridge, “Le mim” is one of Brussels’ collection of antique furniture,
must-see sights. More than 1,200 the Hôtel Charlier contains
multi farious exhibits are enhanced many reminders of its
by listening to their sounds on an days as a meeting
iPad-like device (see pp20–21). place for the
avant-garde set in
Volkskundemuseum,
3 the early 20th
Bruges
century (see p74).
See life as it was lived by the
Museum
ordinary folk of Bruges in the often 5
threadbare 19th and early 20th Aan de
centuries. Fascinating collections Stroom (MAS),
of household items, as well as Antwerp
complete workshops, bring home This dynamic
the extraordinary changes of the construction of perspex
last century and a half (see p95). and red sandstone is
packed with ethno-
graphic and folkloric An exhibit at
treasures – plus Museum Aan
there are great city de Stroom,
views from the Antwerp
rooftop (see p102).
Gruuthusemuseum,
6
Bruges
For over 100 years this historic
house has served as a museum
presenting an ever-growing
collection of artifacts from daily life –
both lowly and grand – dating from
Bruges’ medieval Golden Age to
the 19th century. The museum is
currently closed for restoration
Folk artifacts at Volkskundemuseum until the end of 2017 (see p93).



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Museums ❮❮ 51


THE CINQUANTENAIRE

The era of great international
fairs was launched by the Great
Exhibition in Hyde Park, London,
in 1851. King Léopold II decided to
mount a similar exhibition to mark
the 50th anniversary (cinquantenaire)
of the founding of Belgium in 1880.
The site chosen was marshland
to the east of the historic centre
of Brussels. A pair of exhibition
complexes, linked by a monumental
semi-circular colonnade, was
commissioned from Gédéon
Parc du Cinquantenaire arch
Bordiau. The project was not
completed in time for the 1880 jubilee, but building continued,
and the site was used for subsequent fairs. The central triumphal
arch – topped by a quadriga reminiscent of the one on Berlin’s
Brandenburg Gate – was completed in 1905 to mark Belgium’s 75th
anniversary. Bordiau’s barrel-vaulted exhibition hall houses the Musée
Royal de l’Armée et d’Histoire Militaire. Its twin to the south was
destroyed by fire in 1946; its replacement now forms part of the Musées
Royaux d’Art et d’Histoire. The Parc and Palais du Cinquantenaire also
contain Autoworld (see p84), as well as two curiosities: the Atelier de
Moulage and the Pavillon Horta-Lambeaux (see p84).
Horta Museum, Brussels
7
The full artistic potential of Art
Nouveau is apparent in this museum
– formerly the house and offices of
Victor Horta, the father of Art
Nouveau architecture (see pp22–3).
Design Museum Gent,
8
Ghent
Anyone interested in antique
furniture and the history of
the decorative arts will love this
delightful museum, which follows
changing styles from the domestic Museum Plantin-Moretus, Antwerp
elegance of the 17th century to the
Museum Plantin-
jocular irreverence of Milanese Post- 0
Modernism (see p111). Moretus, Antwerp
Within a century of Gutenberg’s
Huis van Alijn, Ghent
9 breakthrough in European printing
by means of movable type, this
This folk museum, set out
in almshouses founded by the Alijn 16th-century printing house (now a
family in the 14th century, is a major UNESCO World Heritage Site) had
repository for a huge range of become a leader of the publishing
artifacts that were part and parcel revolution. Visitors can view historic
of the lives of ordinary Flemish printing presses and engraving
people in past centuries (see p110). plates in the workshop (see p102).




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52 ❯❯ The Top 10 of Everything

Art Galleries




















The Village Lawyer (1621) by Pieter Brueghel the Youger at MSK, Ghent
Museum voor Schone
1 the end of 2018. In the meantime,
Kunsten (MSK), Ghent
key elements are being shown in
Ghent’s museum of fine arts is a bit various places around the city in
of a mixed bag, but has a handful of temporary exhibitions (see p101).
outstanding pieces; just a stone’s
Musées Royaux des
throw from SMAK (see p111). 4
Beaux-Arts, Brussels
Musée d’Ixelles,
2 Brussels’ royal museum of fine art
Brussels
holds rich collections of such artists
This small but rewarding collect ion as Bruegel, Rubens and Jordaens.
of art boasts names such as Outstanding 19th-century art and
Rembrandt, Toulouse-Lautrec and Art Nouveau is shown in the
Picasso, as well as leading Belgian separate but integrated Fin-de-
artists such as Léon Spilliaert. The Siècle Museum, and the Magritte
museum is located in Ixelles, south Museum next door has a
of the city centre (see p84). comprehensive collection of the
great Surrealist’s work (see pp18–19).
Koninklijk Museum
3 Meunier Museum,
voor Schone Kunsten
(KMSKA), Antwerp 5
Brussels
One of the great European collec- The suburban home of the late-
tions, but closed for restoration until 19th-century sculptor Constantin
Meunier has been turned into a
gallery devoted to his work; it
leaves visitors in no doubt of his
gifts and the pun gency of his social
criticism (see p85).
Van Buuren Museum,
6
Brussels
A private collection of art is
presented in its original setting:
a charming Art Deco home with a
Koninklijk Museum, Antwerp beautiful garden (see p83).


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Art Galleries ❮❮ 53

Groeningemuseum,
7 TOP 10 WORKS
Bruges
Bruges’ main gallery is celebrated OUTSIDE GALLERIES
for its collection of paintings by
Flemish Masters of the late medieval
“Golden Age”. A small, easily
digestible museum (see pp30–31).
Sint-Janshospitaal,
8
Bruges
A superb collection of paintings by
Flemish Primitive Hans Memling
was originally commissioned for
the chapel of this medieval hospital A replica of Rodin’s The Thinker
to bring solace to the sick. The
conjoining wards and chapel have 1 The Adoration of the Mystic Lamb
been restored, giving these works a (1432)
fascinating context (see pp30–31). Jan and Hubrecht van Eyck’s
masterpiece (see pp36–7).
Stedelijk Museum
9 2 The Raising of the Cross (1609–10)
voor Actuele Kunst
Wonderful triptych by Pieter Paul
(SMAK), Ghent Rubens (see p34).
This acclaimed gallery of 3 The Descent from the Cross
contemporary art not only mounts (1611–14)
cutting-edge temporary exhibitions, Rubens’ triptych contrasts Christ’s
but also has a remarkable per- death with the Nativity (see p34).
manent collection. The works on 4 Madonna and Child (1504–5)
display are guaranteed to provoke Michelangelo sculpture of mesmeric
a reaction from aficionados and dignity (see p92).
the unconverted alike (see p111). 5 Baroque Pulpit (1699)
Hendrik Verbruggen’s elaborate carved
pulpit in Brussels’ cathedral (see pp74–5).
6 The History of Bruges (1895)
In the Stadhuis of Bruges (see pp28–9),
12 superb Neo-Medievalist murals by
Albert and Julien De Vriendt.
7 The Thinker (c.1905)
MAP F1 • Parvis Notre-Dame, 1020
BRU (Laeken) • Open 8:30am–
4:30pm daily
A copy of Rodin’s statue on a tomb in
Laeken Cemetery, Brussels.
8 Hergé Mural (1983)
MAP H2 • Stockel Metro, Brussels
A cartoon mural decorating Stockel
metro station by Hergé.
9 Fountain of Kneeling Youths
MUHKA, Antwerp
(1898)
Museum van
0 Emile Braunplein (in front of the
Belfort, Ghent)
Hedendaagse Kunst
(MUHKA), Antwerp George Minne’s best-known work.
The location of this contemporary art 10 Nos Vieux Trams Bruxellois
(1978)
gallery, in the up-and-coming former Bourse Station, Brussels
dockland area in the south of the city, Paul Delvaux’s contribution to putting
sets the tone for what lies inside. A art in the metro.
ground-breaking museum (see p104).



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54 ❯❯ The Top 10 of Everything

Off the Beaten Track


Van Buuren Museum,
4
Brussels
Head out to the southern suburb
of Uccle to find the comfortable
1920s Art Deco home and gardens
of David and Alice van Buuren.
They surrounded themselves with
a superb collection of art by many
of the leading Belgian and European
artists, both historic and
contemporary (see p83).
Patershol, Ghent
5
Église St-Jean-Baptiste au MAP Q1
Béguinage, Brussels Behind the Huis van Alijn folk
museum (see p110) is a warren
Église St-Jean-Baptiste
1 of cobbled streets, once the
au Béguinage, Brussels
heart of medieval Ghent and home
This understated Baroque church to leatherworkers and Carmelite
was once at the heart of an extensive Friars (Paters). In the 17th and 18th
béguinage (see box p92), and still centuries, magistrates working at
provides tranquillity for visitors close the nearby fortress, the Gravensteen,
to the heart of the city (see p75). lived here, which accounts for some
of the grander houses, but during
2 century the area became a notorious
Librarium, Royal Library Ghent’s industrialisation in the 19th
of Belgium, Brussels
MAP C4 • 02 519 53 11 slum. Restoration began in the 1980s
• www.kbr.be/librarium and the Patershol has now been
• Open 9am–5pm Mon–Sat pedestrianized and gentrified, but
In a softly lit, darkened space in it still retains an authentic charm.
Belgium’s most august library
is a small and charming museum
devoted to books, writing and
libraries. Fascinating exhibits, and
the preserved writing-rooms and
libraries of authors and collectors,
are augmented by temporary
exhibitions. (Entrances on Mont des
Arts and Boulevard de l’Empereur 2.)
Maison Autrique,
3
Brussels
This large and grand private
mansion, in the northern suburb of
Schaerbeek, was designed by Victor
Horta in 1893. It was his first project, Charming Patershol district, Ghent
just before he really embraced the
Eastern Bruges
Art Nouveau style. The mansion, 6
from the cellar kitchen to the attic, Most visitors to Bruges
has been restored and furnished frequent the centre and southwest
in original style so that visitors can of the city. Head east for peace and
view the furnishings and decor of quiet, and a collection of interesting
late 19th-century life (see p86). churches and museums (see p95).





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Off the Beaten Track ❮❮ 55



TOP 10 BEST PARKS
AND OPEN SPACES
1 Parc de Bruxelles (Warande)
MAP D3
Lovely formal park laid out in the 18th
century, in front of the Palais Royal.
2 Place du Petit Sablon, Brussels
A tiny park famous for its statues of
medieval guildworkers on the railings
(see p73).
3 Parc d’Egmont, Brussels
MAP C5
A green oasis close to the Avenue
Louise shopping hub.
4 Étangs d’Ixelles, Brussels
MAP G2
Two large ponds, good for a stroll
or a picnic when visiting the Horta
Galerie Bortier, Brussels Museum and the Art Nouveau district.
Galerie Bortier, Brussels
7 5 Forêt de Soignes, Brussels
The great beech forest to the south
Time stands still among the
second-hand books and prints on of the city (see p68).
sale beneath the glass canopies of 6 Minnewater, Bruges
this 1847 shopping arcade (see p77). The so-called “Lake of Love”, with
surrounding park, in the south of
Maison d’Érasme and
8 Bruges (see p94).
7 Koningin Astridpark, Bruges
Béguinage d’Anderlecht,
Brussels MAP L4
These two enchanting museums, in An agreeable park, with children’s play
equipment, featured in the 2008 film
the western suburb of Anderlecht, In Bruges.
are close enough together to be
visited in a single trip (see p86). 8 Citadelpark, Ghent
MAP P6
Muur der Dood­
9 A great park with Ghent’s main art
galleries; on the city’s eastern edge.
geschotenen, Bruges
MAP M3 9 Stadspark, Antwerp
MAP U3
At the site of a former barracks on A triangular lung, southeast of the
the Kazernevest, in eastern Bruges, centre of Antwerp.
a bullet-marked brick wall and a 10 Middelheim Museum, Antwerp
line of monuments commemorates A rewarding open-air sculpture park
the place where a dozen men (see p104).
were executed by the German
army during World War I. The
one British victim was Captain
Fryatt, a merchant navy officer,
whose death became a cause
célèbre at the time.
Begijnhof, Antwerp
0
MAP U1 • Rodestraat 39 • 03
232 01 03 • Open 8am–6pm daily
A place of therapeutic calm,
Antwerp’s béguinage (begijnhof in
Dutch) was built originally in 1545, Minnewater in autumn, Bruges
and is still used as housing.

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56 ❯❯ The Top 10 of Everything

Children’s Attractions


















Visitors enjoying the penguin enclosure at Antwerp Zoo
Antwerp Zoo
Historic Tram Ride,
1 4
Brussels
MAP V2 • Koningin
Astridplein 26 • 03 202 45 40 This fun tram ride should appeal
• www.zooantwerpen.be • Open to children of all ages. A vintage
10am–late afternoon daily (closing tram strains and squeaks its way
times vary between 4:45 & 7pm) along a 40-km (25-mile) circuit
• Adm of wooded paths from the Musée
One of the oldest zoos in the world du Tram (see p86). It operates on
(1843). Special attractions include Sundays from April to September.
a sea lion show, elephant bathing,
Musée du Jouet,
a hippo pond and a hands-on reptile 5
experience. The zoo is also a Centre Brussels
for Research and Conservation. Toy museums have a habit of boring
children stiff, but this one bucks the
Bruparck, Brussels
2 trend with its welcoming atmosphere
and hands-on exhibits (see p76).
MAP F1 • Bvd du Centenaire
20, 1020 BRU • 02 474 83 83
Manneken-Pis Costume
• www.bruparck.com • Opening 6
hours vary; check in advance • Adm Collection, Brussels
Near the Atomium (see p82) is an You may be lucky to find the
amusement park to entertain all Mannekin-Pis (see p16) on
the family – with a cinema, one of his dressed-up
swimming-pool and days. In any case, it’s
“Mini-Europe”. always fun to see his
wardrobe in the Maison
Comics Art
3 du Roi (see p15), where
Museum,
about 100 of his 815
Brussels outfits are on display.
Older children will
Belfort, Bruges
be intrigued by this 7
unusual museum; A kind of medieval
younger children theme-park experience:
may not be, especially the physical challenge of
if they speak neither a slightly scary spiral
French nor Dutch Snowy, Comics staircase, magnificent
(see pp26–7). Art Museum views from the top, and a
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Children’s Attractions ❮❮ 57


bit of a shock if the bells ring while
you are up there. There may be a TOP 10 OTHER SIGHTS
queue to get in (see p91). FOR CHILDREN
1 Parc du Cinquante naire, Brussels
Walibi Belgium
8 The three major museums in this park
will appeal to all ages (see p84).
Wavre • Walibi Belgium: 010 42
15 00. Aqualibi: 010 42 16 03 2 mim, Brussels
• Opening times vary; see website for Music in the headphones changes as
details • www.walibi.com • Adm you go around – a winning formula
Belgium’s premier amusement (see pp20–21).
park, with everything from scary 3 Muséum des Sciences Naturelles,
roller coasters and vertical drops Brussels
to soak-to-the-skin water rides, Good for the scientist, ecologist and
plus more gentle, traditional dinosaur fanatic (see p86).
tracked car-rides and roundabouts 4 Musée des Enfants, Brussels
for younger visitors. There is also Rue du Bourgmestre 15, 1050 BRU
a multi-pool swimming complex, (Ixelles) • 02 640 01 07
called Aqualibi, with a host of Popular museum for children aged
4–12. Limited numbers.
shoots and tube-runs.
5 Choco-Story, Brussels
MAP B3 • Rue de la Téte d’Or 9–11,
1000 BRU • 02 514 20 48 • www.
choco-story-brussels.be • Open 10am–
5pm daily (last entry 4:30pm) • Adm
See and taste chocolate in the making.
6 Huis van Alijn, Ghent
Magical folk museum (see p110).
7 Het Gravensteen, Ghent
MAP P1 • Sint-Veerleplein
• 09 225 93 06
This heavily restored medieval castle
is complete with dungeons.
8 Waterloo, Brussels
The battlefield has a visitor centre and
Boat trip on a canal in Bruges various outlying museums (see p69).
Canal Boat Trips,
9 9 Historium, Bruges
Multi-media history of medieval
Bruges and Ghent
From a canal boat the landmarks of Bruges (see p94).
Bruges and Ghent show themselves 10 Aquatopia, Antwerp
MAP V2 • Koningin Astridplein 7
in a new light. Boats leave from • 03 205 07 50 • www.aquatopia.be
various spots in the centre of Bruges • 10am–6pm daily • Adm
and from the Graslei and Korenlei in This lively aquarium stands opposite
Ghent (see p109). Centraal station.
Boudewijn Seapark,
0
Bruges
Alfons De Baeckestraat 12, 8200 Sint-
Michiels • 050 38 38 38 • www.
boudewijnseapark.be • Opening
times vary; check in advance • Adm
Bruges’ amusement park, in a
suburb to the south of the city,
features marine-themed rides and
attractions, such as an orca-themed
roller coaster and an aqua park with Het Gravensteen, Ghent
slides and water fountains.




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58 ❯❯ The Top 10 of Everything

Performing Arts Venues


high-profile acts. The
largest of the three
concert halls has a
capacity of 2,000.
Les Halles de
4
Schaerbeek,
Brussels
MAP G2 • Rue Royale
Sainte-Marie 22a, 1030
BRU (Schaerbeek) • 02 218
21 07 • www.halles.be
The magnificent old
covered market, built in
Théâtre Royal de la Monnaie, Brussels iron and glass at the end
of the 19th century, has
Théâtre Royal de la
1 been transformed into an
Monnaie, Brussels
inspirational venue for a variety of
MAP C2 • Place de la Monnaie, cultural events – including drama,
1000 BRU • 070 23 39 39 • dance and music.
www.lamonnaie.be
Concertgebouw, Bruges
The most revered performing arts 5
venue in the country, La Monnaie MAP J5 • ’t Zand 34 • 070 22
(Dutch: De Munt) is celebrated for 33 02 • www.concertgebouw.be
sparking off the Revolution of 1830 As part of its celebrations as the
(see p41), when a crowd took to the Cultural Capital of Europe in 2002,
streets incited by Auber’s opera La Bruges created a new concert hall.
Muette de Portici. It was rebuilt in Neo- The result is a highly innovative
Classical style in 1819; the interior building that quickly became
was redesigned after a fire in 1855. established as a leading venue
for classical music, as well
Palais des Beaux-Arts,
2 as ballet and jazz.
Brussels
Théâtre
(BOZAR) 6
MAP D4 • Rue Royal de
Ravenstein 23, 1000 Toone, Brussels
BRU • 02 507 82 00 MAP C3 • Rue du
• www.bozar.be Marché aux Herbes
Victor Horta’s Palais 66 (Impasse Sainte
des Beaux-Arts was Pétronille), 1000 BRU
completed in 1928. • 02 511 71 37
Known as BOZAR, it Théâtre Royal de Toone • www.toone.be
is a multi-arts venue, The Toone marionette
covering music, theatre and more. theatre, occupying a tiny building at
the bottom of a medieval alley, is a
Ancienne Belgique,
3 Brussels institution. Note that this is
Brussels
not for children: the plays – enacted
MAP B3 • Boulevard Anspach 110, by traditional puppets made of wood
1000 BRU • 02 548 24 84 • www. and papier-mâché – may be serious
abconcerts.be classics of theatre, and the language
This well-established venue for pop is often Bruxellois, the rich dialect of
and rock concerts, in central the city. You can also visit the
Brussels, presents interesting and museum of retired puppets.


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Performing Arts Venues ❮❮ 59

De Vlaamse Opera,
7 TOP 10 BELGIAN WRITERS,
Ghent
MAP Q3 • Schouwburgstraat 3 POETS AND MUSICIANS
• 070 22 02 02 • www.operaballet.be
Ghent home of the much-respected
Vlaamse Opera, this classic opera
house ranks among the most
spectacular theatres in Europe.
De Vlaamse Opera,
8
Antwerp
MAP U2 • Frankrijklei 3 • 070 22
02 02 • www.operaballet.be
Antwerp’s opera house was
completed in 1907, with its interior
elegantly decked out with marble
and gilding. The Vlaamse Opera Django Reinhardt and his band
also performs here. 1 Roland de Lassus
Also known as Orlando di Lasso
(c.1532–94). One of the leading
composers of his day.
2 César Franck
Organist and composer (1822–90)
in the Romantic tradition.
3 Émile Verhaeren
Symbolist poet (1855–1916) noted for
his portrayals (in French) of Flanders.
4 Maurice Maeterlinck
Nobel-Prize-winning Symbolist poet
and dramatist (1862–1949).
5 Michel de Ghelderode
Belgium’s most celeb rated 20th-
century playwright (1898–1962),
and one of the most original writers
in the French language.
Le Botanique, Brussels 6 Georges Simenon
Le Botanique, Brussels
9 Prolific master of the popular detective
story (1903–89) and creator of
MAP D1 • Rue Royale 236,
1210 BRU (Saint-Josse-ten-Noode) Inspector Maigret (see p42).
7 Django Reinhardt
• 02 218 37 32 • www.botanique.be The most celebrated of all jazz
The beautiful glasshouses of guitarists, Reinhardt (1910–53) was a
Brussels’ botanical gardens were key member of the renowned Quintet
built in 1826–9. Cunning conversion of the Hot Club of France.
of the interior has provided what is 8 Arthur Grumiaux
now a key venue for a wide range of A leading violinist of his era (1921–86).
cultural activities, including theatre, 9 Hugo Claus
dance and concerts of all kinds. Among Belgium’s most revered writers
deSingel, Antwerp
0 (1929–2008) is this Bruges-born
poet, playwright and novelist.
Desguinlei 25 • 03 248 28 28
• www.desingel.be 10 Amélie Nothomb
One of Belgium’s most successful
This vibrant multi-purpose cultural modern novelists (born 1967), noted
centre is a venue for performances for her exploration of the darker sides
and exhibitions of drama, dance, of human nature.
architecture and music.



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60 ❯❯ The Top 10 of Everything

Types of Belgian Beer


Witbier/Bière Blanche
1 monks. Now it’s produced commer­
Most beer is made from
cially by six breweries with close ties
barley, but it can also be made to the monasteries (Chimay, Achel,
from wheat to produce a distinctive Westmalle, Orval, Rochefort and
“white beer” to which flavourings Westvleteren). Yeast is added
such as coriander and orange peel at bottling to induce a second
may be added. The result is a light, fermentation; it is important to
sparkling and refreshing beer, pour off carefully in one go to avoid
often served cloudy with disturbing the sediment.
sediment. Examples include
Abbey Beer
Hoegaarden and Brugs. 5
Other abbeys also produced
Kriek
2 beer but, unlike the Trappist
Lambic (see opposite
monasteries, many have licensed
page) can be flavoured with them to commercial breweries.
cherries (formerly the Leffe, for example, is now
cherries of the north owned by AB InBev. That said,
Brussels orchards of many of the abbey beers are
Schaerbeek), added during excellent. In addition, there
fermentation to create a are good “abbey­style” beers,
highly distinctive drink called such as Ename, Floreffe and
kriek. With raspberries it St Feuillien.
makes framboise; with
Double/Triple
candy sugar it makes faro. A bottle of 6
Of the three, newcomers kriek Traditionally,
may find faro the easiest to breweries graded their beers
begin with. by strength: apparently single was
around 3%, double 6% and triple
Strong Ales
3 9%. Some breweries – notably
the Abbeys – still label their beers
Some breweries pride
themselves on the sheer power double (dubbel) and triple (tripel).
of their product. Duvel (“Devil”), Double is usually a dark and
at 8.5%, is a famous example. sweetish brew, triple often
Several lay claim to being the golden­blond.
strongest beer in Belgium; at
Lager-Style Beers
12%, Bush beer is a con tender, 7
and to be treated with respect. Pils, or lager, is a bottom­
fermented beer: the yeast remains
Trappist Beer
4 at the bottom of the brew (stronger,
In the past, some of Belgium’s
finest beers were made by the Orval Abbey, famous for its Trappist
Trappists, a silent order of Cistercian beer produced by the monks











060-061_Top_10_Brussels.indd 60 29/06/2016 12:29

Types of Belgian Beer ❮❮ 61


heavier ales tend to be top-
fermented, which seals in more TOP 10 CLASSIC BELGIAN DISHES
flavour). Although such light beers 1 Carbonnades Flamandes/
may be sniffed at by connoisseurs Vlaamse Stoverij
in other countries, in Belgium they A beef stew cooked in Belgian beer –
are brewed to a high standard. rich, succulent and sweet, and best
Despite its ubiquity, AB InBev’s eaten with frites and mayonnaise.
famous Stella Artois, brewed in 2 Moules marinière
Leuven, is a good-quality lager. Mussels, steamed until they open,
in white wine flavoured with celery,
onion and parsley; usually served
in something resembling a bucket,
accompanied by a plate of frites.
3 Waterzooi
A creamy, comforting dish of chicken
(or fish) with vegetables in broth; a
traditional dish of Ghent.
4 Chicons au Gratin
Belgian endives wrapped in ham
and baked in a creamy cheese sauce.
5 Anguilles au Vert/
Paling in ‘t Groen
Eels cooked in a thick sauce of fresh
Barrels of fermenting beer, Lambic green herbs.
Lambic
8 6 Garnaalkroketten
Deep-fried potato croquettes filled
In the valley of the Senne,
the river that flows through with fresh shrimps; they make an
excellent starter or snack.
Brussels, there is a natural air-
borne yeast called Brettanomyces. 7 Salade Liégeoise
For centuries, brewers have simply A warm salad of potatoes and green
left their warm wheat-beer wort beans, or salade frisée, with fried
bacon bits.
uncovered during the winter months,
and allowed air to deliver the yeast 8 Stoemp
into it. The fermenting beer is then Mashed potato mixed with a
vegetable, such as carrots, leeks
left to mature in wooden casks for or celeriac.
a year or more. This creates a very
distinctive beer, with a slightly winey 9 Flamiche aux Poireaux
A quiche-like tart, made with leeks.
edge, called lambic – the quint-
essential beer of Brussels. 10 Jets d’Houblon
Hop-shoots – a spring-time by-product
Gueuze
9 of brewing – usually served in a cream
sauce. They taste a bit like asparagus.
Lambic of various ages can be
blended, and then fermented a second Moules marinière
time in the bottle. This produces a
beer called gueuze, which is fizzy like
champagne and matured a further
year or two to accentuate the wine-
like qualities of the original product.
Christmas Beers
0
Many of the breweries
produce Christmas ales for the
festive season. These may just
be prettily labelled versions of
their usual brew, but they may also
be enriched ales of high strength.

060-061_Top_10_Brussels.indd 61 29/06/2016 12:29

62 ❯❯ The Top 10 of Everything

Things to Buy



















Antiques and bric-à-brac for sale at Stefantiek in Brussels
Antiques and
Biscuits and Pâtisserie
1 4
Bric-à-brac
It is hard not to drool in front
For lovers of everything from old of the ravishing shop windows of
comics and Art Nouveau door Belgian pâtisseries – and the mouth-
handles to exquisite Louis XVI desks watering offerings usually taste as
and ormolu clocks, Belgium is a good as they look. An alternative is
happy hunting ground. In Brussels, to buy some of the equally famed
the full range is on view between the biscuits – from a specialist such as
Place du Jeu de Balle and the Place Dandoy (see p17).
du Grand Sablon (see p77). Tapestry
Chocolate
2 5
Tapestry was one of the great
medieval industries of Brussels and
Belgian chocolate is justly
famous for its smooth, delicious Bruges. It is still made on a craft
taste. The manufacturers use high- basis, but of course large pieces
quality cocoa beans and reintroduce come at luxury prices.
a generous proportion of cocoa
Haute Couture
butter. They also invented the means 6
to manufacture filled chocolates (or Since the 1980s, Belgium has
pralines) on an industrial scale. As a shot to the forefront of the fashion
result, these superb chocolates are world, with designers such as Dries
remarkably good value. van Noten, Raf Simons and Walter
van Beirendonck. Many of the major
Beer
3
In 1900 there were over 3,200
breweries in Belgium; now there are
just over 150, but they still generate
an astonishing variety of beers (see
pp60–61). The most famous, and also
some of the finest, are produced by
the Trappist monasteries, but even
the lighter, lager-style beers such as
Stella Artois and Jupiler are made to
a high standard. There are specialist
beer shops in all the main cities. Exquisite Belgian handmade lace


062-063_Top_10_Brussels.indd 62 29/06/2016 12:29

Things to Buy ❮❮ 63


designers have their own shops in
Antwerp (see p105), but there are TOP 10 SUPPLIERS OF
plenty of outlets in the Rue Antoine CHOCOLATES, BISCUITS
AND PÂTISSERIE
Dansaert in Brussels (see p77).
Lace
7
There were tens of thousands
of lace-makers in 19th-century
Belgium, many of them living in
penury. That industry was
undermined by the invention of
lace-making machines, and to some
degree it still is. If you want to buy
handmade Belgian lace, go to a Chocolate strawberries at Godiva
reputable shop, insist on a label of
authenticity, and expect a high price. 1 Leonidas
www.leonidas.com
Children’s Clothes
8 One of the favourite chocolatiers. Less
rich and less expensive than its rivals.
There are numerous shops
devoted to children’s clothes in 2 Godiva
Belgium, and their products are www.godivachocolates.eu
irresistible – from hard-wearing Maker of luxury chocs, with branches
romp-around cottons to beauti fully not just in Belgium but worldwide.
made winter jackets and hats, and 3 Neuhaus
unusual, fun shoes. www.neuhaus.be
Credited with inventing the
Tintin Merchandise
9 praline and the ballotin (box).
4 Dumon
Tintin fans can pick up not only
the books, but also T-shirts, www.chocolatierdumon.be
Excellent chocolatier originating from
figurines, games, post- Torhout, near Bruges: a cut above the
cards, mobile phone mass-market producers.
covers, key rings,
stationery, mugs – 5 Wittamer
www.wittamer.com
you name it. The Chocolates, cakes and biscuits
characters are to die for (see p78).
copyrighted, so
high-quality, legally 6 Pierre Marcolini
www.marcolini.be
produced goods Fabulous chocolates, made
come at a fairly entirely from raw in gredients.
steep price. There 7 Mary
is a dedicated Tintin www.mary.be
shop in Rue de la Chocolates of exquisite quality.
Tintin figure Colline, Brussels. 8 Galler
Diamonds
0 A mass-market but high-standard
manufacturer. Its famous Langues
HRD: www.hrdantwerp.com
Over three-quarters of the world’s de Chat (cat’s tongues) are shaped
in a jokey cat’s face.
uncut diamonds flow through the 9 Maison Dandoy
exchanges of Antwerp; many of Supreme biscuit manufacturer,
these are cut, polished and mounted in a class of its own.
there. You could find some bargains 10 Jules Destrooper
– but of course, you have to know www.destrooper.be
what you’re doing. If in doubt, Manufacturer of biscuits since 1886.
consult the Hoge Raad voor Diamant Its distinctive blue-and-white boxes
(HRD), which oversees a reliable contain such delights as “almond thins”.
system of certification.
062-063_Top_10_Brussels.indd 63 29/06/2016 12:29

64 ❯❯ The Top 10 of Everything

Brussels, Bruges,
Antwerp & Ghent for Free


Grand Place, Brussels
1
The spectacular centrepiece
of Brussels is a marvel of ornate
architecture. There are a couple of
attractions with entrance charges
to visit here, but the best is free:
standing in the middle looking at the
façades in wonder (see pp14–15).
Manneken-Pis, Brussels
2
On view in all his unashamed
glory, just a short walk from the The Maagdenhuismuseum, Antwerp
Grand Place, is Brussels’ most
Museums: free
famous and notorious mascot (see 5
p73). Access to the statue is free, entry days
but you will have to pay to see his Many of the publicly owned museums
collection of costumes at the Maison offer free entry one day a month. For
du Roi (see p15), unless you go on example, on the first Wednesday
the first Sunday of the month. each month, after 1pm, there is no
charge at the Musées Royaux des
Africa Museum
3 Beaux-Arts (see pp18–19) and the
Although the Africa Museum
Musée des Instruments de Musique
in Tervuren is currently closed, its (see pp20–21) in Brussels. Most public
beautifully landscaped gardens are museums in Antwerp are also free on
open and free of charge. You can the first Wednesday of the month; the
saunter past monumental geometric Maagdenhuismuseum (see p104) and
topiary and stunning Neo-Classical the Rubenshuis (see p36) on the last.
fountains, picnic near the neatly laid
Graslei and Korenlei,
out lakes and stroll through ancient 6
woodland. And, if you are lucky, you Ghent
might be there when the museum These two historic quays, facing each
opens for one of its free weekend other over the River Leie, are joined
pop-up exhibitions. by a bridge, the Sint-Michielsbrug.
This provides an excellent viewpoint,
Parlement Européen
4 taking in both quays and the towers
and the Parlementarium, of the Sint-Niklaaskerk, the Belfort
Brussels and Sint-Baafskathedraal (see p109).
For all avid political enthusiasts
here’s a chance to see what goes Graslei
on at the EU Parliament and get Quay
an insight into the lives and work
of MEPs – and all for free (see p84).













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Brussels, Bruges, Antwerp & Ghent for Free ❮❮ 65

Walking in Bruges
7 TOP 10 MONEY-SAVING TIPS
One of the best things to do
in Bruges is simply to walk. Bring
stout shoes (for the cobbles) and
wander. Virtually every sector of
the city within the ovoid perimeter
– formed by canals and roads that
track the path of the old city walls –
yields something of interest. Many
hotels will supply maps with walks
marked on them.
Centraal Station,
8 Centraal station Antwerp
Antwerp
1 Belgian railways offer numerous
MAP V2 discounts, eg for weekend travel,
This is a classic monument to the the over 65s, children under 12.
Golden Age of railways: a station Visit www.belgianrail.be.
of palatial richness, referen cing just 2 Hotel prices fluctuate a lot according
about every architectural style, and to business travel patterns and tourist
glittering with gilded ornamentation, flow. You can find bargain rates at
polished marble and glass. Built in weekends in Brussels; weekdays
off-season are cheaper in Bruges.
1905, it was the culminating master­
work of the Bruges architect Louis 3 Check if breakfast is included in your
Delacenserie (1838–1909). hotel price. If not, breakfast in the hotel
will add €10–25 per person per night
to your stay.
4 Car parking is most expensive in city
centres, and much cheaper – free, even
– on the outskirts. Park and walk to
Bruges, Antwerp or Ghent, or take the
park and ride to Brussels.
5 A 24/48/72-hour pass or preloadable
multi-journey MOBIB Basic card can
save money on public transport. This is
particularly relevant in Brussels, where
you may wish to travel to the museums
and sights of Outer Brussels, beyond
Palais de Justice, Brussels normal walking distance.
Palais de Justice,
9 6 Museum passes allow you to visit
several museums in a given city for
Brussels
a single, reduced price.
This colossal pile, which dominates 7 In restaurants, fixed-price set-menus
the city skyline, still serves as a – particularly at lunchtime – can be
law court, so it’s normally possible real bargains.
to enter during working hours on 8 Belgium is famous for its frites (chips),
weekdays. It was the biggest building and a good chip stall (friterie/frietkot)
in Europe when completed in 1883 can provide a cheap Belgian meal.
after 17 years of construction, and 9 Picnics are a great way to save
the interior is as vast and elaborate money. Delicatessens, bread shops and
as the exterior. Renovations have pâtisseries offer great prepared food
been ongoing since 2003 (see p76). – sandwiches, flans, tarts, tubs of salad.
Churches
0 10 Visitors from outside the EU can
reclaim most sales tax (TVA/BWT)
Many of the churches are free
to enter (although you are invited to on purchases above a minimum value
of €125 from any one shop. Visit
leave a donation). There are excep­ www.brusselsairport.be.
tions, such as Antwerp Cathedral.


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66 ❯❯ The Top 10 of Everything

Festivals and Events

















Brass section of an orchestra performing at the Festival van Vlaanderen
Festival van Vlaanderen
1 an 800-year-old tradition: 40 days
Dates are mainly Jun–Oct
after Easter, the sacred relic of the
• www.festival.be Holy Blood is paraded around the
An impressive programme of streets in a colourful, spectacular,
classical music – as well as jazz, but at heart solemn procession
world music and dance – takes place featuring sumptuous medieval and
across Flanders every summer and biblical costumes.
autumn, with performances in the
Fête de Saint-Nicolas,
main venues, as well as in churches 5
and other historic buildings. throughout Belgium
6 Dec
Plantation du Meiboom,
2 The Feast of St Nicholas (Sinter klaas
Brussels
in Dutch) is celebrated by children
9 Aug (1:30pm onwards) with even greater enthusiasm than
This jolly slice of ancient folklore dates Christmas. St Nicholas (the original
back to 1213. Led by the Confrérie Santa Claus), dressed as the Bishop
des Compagnons de Saint-Laurent, of Myra, walks the streets with his
dressed in wacky costumes, and sidekick Zwarte Piet, and children
accompanied by seven tradi tional receive presents, as well as sweets
giant figures, the participants parade and speculoos biscuits.
a may tree around central Brussels,
Gentse Floraliën, Ghent
before planting it on the corner of 6
Rue du Marais and Rue des Sables. Late Apr (next in 2021)
Now taking place in four locations in
Foire du Midi, Brussels
3 the city centre (as opposed to just the
Mid-Jul–mid-Aug
Flanders Expo halls), this vast flower
This big, rollicking, noisy late- show is held once every five years.
summer fun fair set out along the
Boulevard du Midi has the newest
rides plus dodgems, roller coasters
and all the other old favourites.
Heilig Bloedprocessie,
4
Bruges
Ascension Day (May)
Bruges’ biggest day out, the
Procession of the Holy Blood follows Exhibit at Gentse Floraliën, Ghent
Eyewitness Travel – Top 10 series LAYERS PRINTED:
Two-column, 8.5pt grid “UK” LAYER
(SourceReport v.1.9)
066-067_Top_10_Brussels.indd 66 15/08/2016 16:59
Date 24th June 2015
Size 100mm x 191mm

Festivals and Events ❮❮ 67


Ghent’s flower-growing industry
is famous above all for its begonias, TOP 10 SPECTATOR SPORTS
azaleas, rhododendrons and roses. AND VENUES
1 Ronde van Vlaanderen
Praalstoet van de
7 First Sun in Apr
Classic of the cycling calendar.
Gouden Boom, Bruges
Late Aug (next in 2017) 2 Liège-Bastogne-Liège
First performed in 1958, the Pageant Third Sun in Apr
of the Golden Tree takes place in Oldest cycling classic in the World Cup.
Bruges every five years or so. In a 3 Zesdaagse van Vlaanderen-Gent
vast costumed parade, the people MAP P6 • Late Nov • ‘t Kuipke,
of the city evoke the glory days of Citadelpark, Ghent
the Burgundian era. One of the most important meetings
for European speed cycling.
Ommegang, Brussels
8 4 Memorial Van Damme
MAP F1 • Sep • Stade Roi
First Tue & Thu in Jul
In Brussels’ most spectacular Baudouin, Brussels
Important athletics meeting.
parade, some 2,000 participants,
dressed as Renaissance nobles, 5 20 km of Brussels
guildsmen, mounted soldiers and Last Sun in May
Brussels’ mini-marathon.
entertainers, perform an ommegang
(tour) in the Grand Place. It’s a 6 Belgian Grand Prix
tradition said to date back to 1549. Spa-Francorchamps • Late Aug
A must for all committed petrol-heads.
7 Hippodrome Wellington, Ostend
Horseracing every Monday in July and
August (harness and flatracing).
8 King Baudouin Stadium
MAP F1 • Ave du Marathon 135,
1020 BRU (Laeken) • 02 474 39 40
Athletics, cycle meetings and
international soccer matches.
9 Constant Vanden Stock Stadium
MAP F2 • Avenue Théo Verbeeck,
1070 BRU (Anderlecht) • 02 529 40
Ommegang parade, Brussels 67 (for tickets) • www.rsca.be
Reiefeest, Bruges
9 The home ground of RSC Anderlecht.
10 Jan Breydel Stadium
Last 10 days of Aug (next
in 2018) (Olympiapark)
Olympialaan 74, 8200 Bruges
This festival, held every five years, (Sint-Andries) • 050 40 21 21
celebrates the River Reie’s role in • www.clubbrugge.be
the city’s history. A series of historical Stadium shared by Club Brugge
scenes is performed at night at and Cercle Brugge.
various points beside the water,
creating a magical effect and
bringing the city’s architecture to life.
Toussaint, throughout
0
Belgium
1–2 Nov
All Saints’ Day is followed by the
Jour des Morts, the Day of the Dead
– a time when Belgians honour
their departed by tidying up the
graveyards and laying flowers – Athletes at Memorial Van Damme
mainly chrysanthemums.

066-067_Top_10_Brussels.indd 67 29/06/2016 12:29

68 ❯❯ The Top 10 of Everything

Excursions


landscape for walking or cycling –
particularly in autumn, when the
beech trees turn golden. There are
two arboretums, at Groenendaal
and Tervuren, and an information
centre on the site of the 14th-century
Abbaye du Rouge-Cloître.
Namur
4
Tourist Office: Place de
la Station • 081 24 64 49
• www.namurtourisme.be
An attractive town on the confluence
The stunning town hall, Leuven of the Meuse and Sambre rivers,
Namur is known for its mighty
Leuven
1 Citadelle perched drama tically
on a steep-sided hill.
Tourist Office: Naamsestraat 3
• 016 20 30 20 • www.leuven.be
Mechelen
The old university town of Leuven 5
(French: Louvain) has a deep charm, Tourist Office: Hallestraat 2–4
derived from its compact human • 070 22 00 08
scale and many historic buildings – • www.toerismemechelen.be
chief among them the Stadhuis, the Mechelen (French: Malines) was a
most beautiful Gothic town hall of proud trading city in the Burgundian
them all with its lace-like detail. era, and centre of power under
Margaret of Austria (1507–15; 1519–30).
Walibi Belgium
2 Dominating the city is the vast bell-
tower of Sint-Romboutskathedraal.
Belgium’s biggest and best-
known theme park – a good day out
Lier
for the kids (see p57). 6
Tourist Office: Grote Markt 58
Forêt de Soignes
3 • 038 00 05 55 • www.visitlier.be
This charming little town to the
Drève du Rouge-Cloître 4
• www.foret-de-soignes.be southeast of Antwerp has a
The magnificent ancient beech handsome collection of historic
forests of Soignes provide a splendid buildings clustered around the Grote










Charming buildings line the water at Lier






068-069_Top_10_Brussels.indd 68 29/06/2016 12:30

Excursions ❮❮ 69



Nor th Knokke-Heist NETHERLANDS E19 Turnhout
S ea
Ostend Damme Antwerp ANTWERPEN
Bruges Zelzate E34 Beveren E313
E40 E40 Lier Geel
Ghent Lokeren E19
Dunkerque E403 E17 Mechelen
WEST- OOST-VLAANDEREN A12
VLAANDEREN Roeselare Aalst VLAAMS BRABANT
E40 E314
Ieper (Ypres) A19 Kortrijk Oudenaarde Brussels E40 Leuven Tienen
E17 Ninove Forêt de Soignes
Roubaix
Mouscron Waterloo Walibi Belgium
A25
E429 BRABANT WALLON
E403
Lille Tournai E19 Gembloux
FR A N CE E42 HAINAUT E411
La Louvière
A26
E19 Mons E42 Namur
A23
0 kilometres 30 A2 Charleroi NAMUR
0 miles 30 E411
Markt, but its most famous excellent seafood. It also has
possession is the Zimmertoren, surprisingly good collections of art
a 14th-century watch-tower with in the Mu.ZEE, featuring local artist
its fascinating Centenary Clock. James Ensor and the Symbolists.
Damme
9
Tourist Office: Huyse de Grote
Sterre, Jacob van Maerlantstraat 3
• 050 28 86 10
• www.damme-online.com
A pretty cluster of late-medieval
buildings is all that remains of the
once-prosperous town at the head
of the canal to Bruges. A pleasant
excursion by boat, bus or bicycle.
Ieper (Ypres)
0
Butte de Lion mound, Waterloo In Flanders Fields: Lakenhallen,
Grote Markt 34 • 057 23 92 20
Waterloo
7 • Open Apr–mid-Nov: 10am–6pm
daily; mid-Nov–Mar: 10am–5pm Tue–
Route du Lion 252–4,
1420 Braine-l’Alleud • 023 85 19 12 Sun. Closed 3 weeks in Jan • Adm
• Open 9:30am–6:30pm daily • www.toerismeieper.be
(Oct–Mar: 10am–6pm) • Adm Ieper (French: Ypres) was one of the
• www.waterloo1815.be great medieval trading cities of
Near Waterloo, 15 km (9 miles) south Flanders. Its historic past was all but
of Brussels, Napoleon was finally erased when it became the focus of
defeated. The battlefield has been bitter trench warfare in World War I.
a tourist site virtually since the battle Today it is a centre for visits to the
itself. The new 1815 Memorial visitor trenches and the cemeteries, and
centre is a good place to start. site of the Menin Gate, the memorial
arch marking the road along which
Ostend
8 soldiers marched. But the real draw
Tourist Office: Monacoplein 2 •
is “In Flanders Fields”, a museum
059 70 11 99 • www.visitoostende.be depicting the background of the war,
Ostend (spelt Oostende locally) its experiences and horrors – a richly
is famous as a resort and for its informative and moving experience.
068-069_Top_10_Brussels.indd 69 29/06/2016 12:30

Brussels, Bruges,

Antwerp & Ghent


Area by Area








Steenhouwersdijk, one of the most pictureque
stretches of the canal, Bruges















































070-071_Top_10_Brussels.indd 70 29/06/2016 12:30

Central Brussels 72
Outer Brussels 82
Bruges 90
Antwerp 100
Ghent 108
























































070-071_Top_10_Brussels.indd 71 29/06/2016 12:30

72 ❯❯ Brussels, Bruges, Antwerp & Ghent Area by Area

Central Brussels


Central Brussels is contained within a clearly defined shape called
the Pentagon. Nowadays this outline is formed by a ring road
called the Petite Ceinture, which follows the path of the old city
walls. Little remains of the walls, but one old city gate, the Porte
de Hal, still stands, and gives an indication of just how massive
the fortifications were. Most of historic Brussels is within these
bounds, including both the commercial and popular districts of the
Lower Town, and the aristocratic quarter of the Upper Town, which
includes the Royal Palace. As well as cultural gems, you will find
places to stay and eat, good shops, and vibrant cafés and bars.

AREA MAP OF CENTRAL BRUSSELS
RUE DE LAEKEN LAKENSESTR. BROUCKERE R. NEUVE RUE DU MARAIS BROEKSTR. BD PACHECO
Ste-Catherine
St- Katelijne NIEUWSTR.
PLACE DE
PLEIN
BD ANSPACH ANSPACHLAAN RUE DE LA CROIX DE FER PLEIN
RUE ANTOINE
DANSAERT STR.
De Brouckère
PL. DE LA
RUE DE LIG NE STRAAT
Madou
KOLONIENSTRAAT KONINGSSTRAAT
PLACE
RUE DES CHARTREUX MONNAIE BD DE BERLAIMONT LAAN RUE DU CONGRES STR. MADOU
KARTUIZERSSTR.
IJZERENKRUISSTR.
RUE VAN ARTEVELDE STR. Beurs R. MARCHE AUX HERBES BD DE L’IMPERATRICE KEIZERINLAAN PLACE SAINTE- R. DE LA LOI WETSTRAAT Arts-Loi
Bourse
GUDULE
GRASMARKT
RUE DES COLONIES
Parc
Park
Kunst-Wet
Centraal Station
Parc de
Anneessens RUE DU MIDI ZUIDSTR. ST-JEAN Gare Centrale RUE ROYALE Bruxelles H E R TOG STR AAT BOULEVARD DE REGENT LAAN
PLACE
R. DE LOMBARD STR.
MAURICE LEMONNIER R. DU POINCON PRIEMSTR. BD DE L’EMPEREUR KEIZERSLAA
Warande
BOULEVARD
ST-JANSPLEIN
LAAN
PL ROYALE
STALINGRAD LAAN R. DES URSULINES URSULINIENSTR. PL DU GRAND KONINGSPL. RUE
A VEN UE DE
PALEIZPLEIN
SABLON
GR. ZAVEL
PLEIN
Chapelle
R. DES TANNE U R S HUIDEVETT ERS ST R.
Square
Kapelle
Troon
de Meeus
BD DE WATERLOO WATERLOOLAAN
PLACE
De Meeus
DU PETIT
Square
SABLON
KLEINE ZAVEL
RUE D E NA M U R
PLEIN
Naamse Poorte
PLACE
PLACE DU RUE DES MINIMES POELAERT AV. DE LA TOISON D’OR GULDENVLIESLAAN
JEU DE BALLE PLEIN
VOSSENPLEIN ELSENSESTEENWEG WAVERSESTEENWEG
RUE BLAES R U E HAUTE WOLSTRAAT Louise CHAUSEE D’IXELLES
Louiza
RUE AUX LAINES Top 10 Sights Bars and Cafés
CHAUSSEE DE WAVRE
see p78
see pp 73–5
Restaurants Lunch Spots,
B D D E WATE RL OO
AV. HE N RI J A S PER
Monnaies
and Bistros
Munthof Shopping see p81
see p77
Brussels Nightlife
The Best of the Rest
R. DE LA SOURCE
0 metres 500 see p79
see p76
0 yards 500
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Central Brussels ❮❮ 73





















The impressive Grand Place during the Tapis des Fleurs flower festival
The Grand Place
Musée des Instruments
1 3
de Musique
No trip to Brussels would be
complete without a visit to the Grand The famous “mim” collection of
Place – even if it’s just to stock up on historical and contemporary musical
some Belgian biscuits or chocolates. instruments is housed in the
A remarkable legacy of the city’s remarkable Art Nouveau department
Gothic and Renaissance past, it is store known as “Old England”. A
also a monument to the values and visitor guidance system brings the
ingenuity of the artisans and exhibits to life (see pp20–21)
merchants who were the architects
Sablon
of Brussels’ prosperity (see pp14–15). 4
MAP C4 • Rue de la Régence
3B • Church: Open 8am–6pm Mon–
Fri, 9:30am–6pm Sat, 10am–6pm Sun
The name Sablon refers to the sandy
marshland that occupied this site
until it was reclaimed in the 17th
century. The Place du Grand Sablon
is a centre for antiques and is home
to leading chocolate makers: Pierre
Marcolini and Wittamer. The Place
du Petit Sablon park is adorned with
The Card Players by De Braekeleer, 48 statues of the medieval guilds of
Musées Royaux des Beaux-Arts Brussels. Separating the two is the
Église Notre-Dame du Sablon.
Musées Royaux des
2
Beaux-Arts
The premier art gallery of Belgium
focuses almost exclusively on
Flemish and Belgian art, and is more
rewarding for it. Highlights include
rare works by Pieter Bruegel the
Elder and the exhilarating Rubens
collection. It is interlinked with the
Fin-de-Siècle Museum and the
Magritte Museum (see pp18-19). Église Notre-Dame du Sablon




072-075_Top_10_Brussels.indd 73 29/06/2016 12:30

74 ❯❯ Brussels, Bruges, Antwerp & Ghent Area by Area
















A visitor browses comic designs at the Comics Art Museum
Comics Art Museum
Musée Charlier
5 7
Reflecting the huge popularity
MAP E3 • Avenue des Arts 16
of comic-strip books in Belgium – • 02 220 26 91 • Open noon–5pm
and, indeed, most of continental Mon–Thu, 10am–1pm Fri • Adm
Europe – this unique museum, • www.charliermuseum.be
formerly known as the Centre Belge Brussels is a city of grand old
de la Bande Dessinée, is a shrine to 19th-century mansions, or maisons
the art form. Archive material and de maître. This museum provides a
other exhibits focus above all on rare opportunity to see inside one.
Belgian contributors to the genre – The original owner, Henri van
most notably, of course, on Hergé, Curtsem, commi ssioned Victor Horta
the creator of Tintin (see pp26–7). (see p23) to redesign the interior. In
the hands of van Curtsem’s adoptive
heir, sculptor Guillaume Charlier,
the mansion became a centre for
Brussels’ avant-garde. On his death
in 1925, Charlier left the house to
the city, and it retains much of the
decor of his era. There are works
displayed by leading artists of the
time, such as James Ensor, Léon
Frédéric, Fernand Khnopff and Rik
Underground at Palais Coudenberg Wouters, plus an impressive
collection of antique furniture.
Palais Coudenberg
6 Cathédrale des Saints
MAP D4 • Place des Palais 7
Michel et Gudule
• 02 500 45 54 • Open 9:30am–5pm 8
Tue–Fri, 10am–6pm Sat & Sun; MAP D3 • Parvis Sainte-Gudule
10am–6pm daily Jul & Aug • Adm • 02 217 83 45 • Open 7am–6pm
Accessed via the BELvue Museum Mon–Fri, 8:30am–3:30pm Sat, 2–6pm
(see p76), this archaeological site Sun • Adm only for Museum of
was once the medieval Coudenberg Church Treasures and Crypt
Palace that stood on Place Royale. Brussels’ largest and finest church
The palace was the seat of residence was built from 1226 onwards and
for the Duchy of Brabant and then showcases over 300 years’ worth of
the Governors of the Netherlands for architectural design. Highlights
more than 600 years until it burned inside include an enormous Baroque
down in 1731. The highlight is the oak pulpit, splendid Renaissance
impressive Aula Magna banqueting stained-glass windows, and access
hall, which was the scene of King to the treasury and preserved
Charles V’s abdication in 1555. remnants of the old Romanesque





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Central Brussels ❮❮ 75


A DAY IN THE CENTRE
THE PENTAGON
The first city walls to enclose Brussels Église Sainte-Catherine
were built in about 1100 but the city Cathédrale des
expanded and they were superseded Rue Saints Michel
in 1381, creating the neat pentagon Dansaert et Gudule
Bourse
Parc de
shape that is evident today. These walls Bruxelles
were eventually knocked down in the Grand Place
mid-19th century to make way for Dandoy
tree-lined boulevards. Of the city gates, Manneken-Pis
only the Porte de Hal remains. Musée des Instruments
de Musique
Musées Royaux des Palais
church that once stood here. Beaux-Arts Royal
Dedicated to St Michael, patron saint Sablon district Rue de la Régence
of the city, the cathedral also acknow­ MORNING
ledges in its name St Gudule, a local
8th­century saint who outfoxed the Start off with the essentials: a
Devil. The cathedral is often used for stroll around the Grand Place
royal weddings and state funerals. (see pp14–15) and a trip to the
Manneken-Pis (see p16), stopping
Manneken-Pis
9 for a waffle at the Dandoy shop at
Rue Charles Buls 14 on the way.
In Brussels you can’t avoid
this cheeky chap, famously relieving Now head back to the Bourse
(see p16), and go west along Rue
himself with carefree abandon, just Dansaert, the street for cutting­
as little boys do. Among other things, edge fashion. Turn right at the
he’s on postcards, T­shirts, key rings Rue du Vieux Marché aux Grains
and corkscrews. So why not take a and walk up to the Église Sainte-
Catherine, a church designed in
pilgrimage to see the real thing – a 1854 by Joseph Poelaert, also
tiny bronze statue – and bask in the responsible for the Palais de
happy absurdity of it all? It must be Justice. It stands on reclaimed
worth a photograph (see p16). land at the head of a canal now
covered over by the Place Sainte­
Église St-Jean-Baptiste
0 Catherine. This was the site of
the old fish market, and is still
au Béguinage
MAP B1 • Place du Béguinage famous for its fish restaurants –
an ideal place to stop for lunch.
• 02 217 87 42 • Open 10am–5pm
Tue–Sat, 10am–8pm Sun AFTERNOON
Considered to be one of the country’s
prettiest churches, this Baroque Walk back east, stopping at the
beauty belonged to a béguinage (see Cathédrale des Saints Michel et
Gudule before heading up the hill
p92) and dates from to Rue Royale. Take a stroll in the
the 17th century. pleasant Parc de Bruxelles, then
Parts of the church walk south to the Palais Royal
are occupied (see p76) and the elegant 17th­
by a group century Place Royale, with its
of refugees. statue of the 11th­century crusader
Godefroy de Bouillon. You’re now
a stone’s throw from both the
Musées Royaux des Beaux-Arts
(see pp18–19) and the Musée des
Instruments de Musique (see
pp20–21). After this, you’ll probably
need refresh ments, so continue
down the Rue de la Régence to
the cafés and chocolate shops of
Sablon (see p73).
Église St-Jean-Baptiste
See map on p72
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76 ❯❯ Brussels, Bruges, Antwerp & Ghent Area by Area

The Best of the Rest


Palais de Charles
Galeries Royales
1 6
de Lorraine
Saint-Hubert
When it opened in 1847, this very MAP C4 • Place du Musée 1 • Open
elegant shopping arcade was the first 9am–5pm first Sat of every month
and grandest in Europe (see p16). (closed Jul & Aug) • Adm
This suite of 18th-century rooms
Musée du Costume
2 contains a small but interesting
et de la Dentelle
exhib i tion of furniture, porcelain,
On display are exquisite examples clocks and other artifacts.
of costume and lace, an industry
Cinematek
that employed 10,000 women in 7
mid-19th-century Brussels (see p16). MAP D4 • Rue Baron Horta
9 • 02 551 19 19 • Open daily
Place des Martyrs
3 • Adm • www.cinematek.be
A bijou cinema with a fascinating
MAP C2
The 445 “martyrs” killed in the collection tracing the early history
Belgian Revolution of 1830 were laid of the moving image in the foyer.
to rest in a crypt beneath this square. Porte de Hal
Église Notre-Dame
4 8
MAP B6 • Boulevard du Midi
de la Chapelle
150 • 02 534 34 50 • Open 9:30am–
MAP B4 • Place de la Chapelle 5pm Tue–Fri, 10am–5pm Sat & Sun •
• Open Nov–Feb: 9am–6pm daily, Adm (free from 1pm first Wed of month)
Mar–Oct: 9am–7pm daily The sole surviving gate of the
This large, atmospheric church 14th-century city walls houses a
is like something out of a Bruegel museum of defences and history.
painting – aptly so, since Pieter
Palais de Justice
Bruegel the Elder is buried here. 9
MAP B5 • Place Poelaert
Palais Royal and
5 • Open 9am–3pm Mon–Fri
BELvue Museum
There is something gloriously
MAP D4 • Place des Palais. Palais megalomaniac about this vast
Royal: 02 551 20 20; Open Jul–mid- Neo-Classical pile.
Sep: 10:30am–4:30pm Tue–Sun
Musée du Jouet
• BElvue Museum: 02 500 45 54; 0
Open 9:30am–5pm Tue–Fri; Jul & MAP E2 • Rue de l’Association
Aug, weekends: 10am–6pm • Adm 24 • 02 219 61 68 • Open 10am–
See how the other half lived in the noon & 2–6pm daily • Adm
grand rooms of the Royal Palace. This delightful toy museum will
A former hotel next to the palace appeal to both children and adults.
houses a museum devoted to
the history of Belgium since 1830. Entrance of the Palais de Justice







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Central Brussels ❮❮ 77

Shopping


Galeries Royales
1
Saint-Hubert
Home to luxury shops including
jewellers and crystal makers (see p16).
Rue Neuve
2
MAP C2
This pedestrianized shopping street
close to the city centre features
many of the main European fashion
chains and a large Inno department
store at the northern end.
Rue Antoine Dansaert
3
MAP A2
Ignore the shoddy environs: this
is the place for cutting-edge fashion.
All the Antwerp designers are
represented in the shops here, Second-hand books, Galerie Bortier
and there are several outlets for
notable Belgian fashion labels. be found along Avenue Louise and
the adjoining Boulevard de Waterloo.
The covered Galerie de la Toison
d’Or, a little further to the east, is
also a major shopping hub.

Around the Grand Place
7
MAP B3/C3
Rue Marché aux Herbes, Rue
Marché au Charbon and Rue du Midi
Christmas market stall are good for independent boutiques,
jewellers, bookshops and food shops.
Christmas Market
4 Galerie Bortier
MAP B3
From early December to early 8
MAP C3
January, this market offers all things Smaller than the Galeries Royales
Christmassy – crafts, decorations, Saint-Hubert, but just as elegant.
gifts – in the streets around the Here you’ll find second-hand books,
Bourse and on Quai aux Briques. prints, postcards and posters.
Rue Blaes and Place
Place du Grand Sablon
5 9
du Jeu de Balle
MAP C4
There are antiques shops fronting MAP B5
the square, but poke around in some Place du Jeu de Balle has a
of the side passages as well. Two of daily flea market (6am–2pm) selling
the finest chocolatiers, Wittamer and antiques, junk and curios, and there
Pierre Marcolini, are here (see p63). are similar shops along Rue Blaes.
Galerie Agora
Avenue Louise and
6 0
Galerie de la Toison d’Or
MAP C3
MAP C6/D5 This maze-like covered arcade sells
Top-name international couturiers, inexpensive T-shirts, leather goods,
including Chanel and Hermès, can costume jewellery and incense.
See map on p72
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78 ❯❯ Brussels, Bruges, Antwerp & Ghent Area by Area

Bars and Cafés


La Fleur en Papier Dore
Le Greenwich
1 6
MAP B4
MAP B2 • Rue des Chartreux 7
An established Brussels favourite, • Rue des Alexiens 53–55
especially popular with an avid A rare survivor among the traditional
chess-playing crowd. It was a sort of Belgian pub-cum-café known
former hang-out of Mag ritte. as estaminets. Pictures and
mementos recall its connections
with the Surrealist movement.
Good Belgian beers and pub food.
Wittamer
7
MAP C4
• Place du Grand Sablon 12–13
The world-class chocolatier has a
seating area where you can sample
its heavenly products with a cup of
tea or coffee on the side.
mim
8
A game of chess at Le Greenwich MAP D4
• Rue Montagne de la Cour 2
Le Roy d’Espagne
2 The Musée des Instruments
de Musique’s spectacular café
MAP C3 • Grand Place 1
A famous watering-hole in the (see pp20–21).
old bakers’ guildhouse. There
Bonnefooi
is a medieval air to the interior 9
decor. Also serves light meals. MAP B3
• Steenstraat/Rue des Pierres 8
Au Bon Vieux Temps
3 This lively bar draws a young crowd
MAP C3 • Impasse St- Nicolas 4 with its live music on week nights
Blink and you’ll miss this traditional and DJs at the weekend. Great
17th-century tavern tucked down atmosphere especially in summer.
a side street off Rue du Marché
À La Mort Subite
aux Herbes. This is a great spot 0
for escaping the bustle outside. MAP C2 • Rue Montagne aux
Herbes Potagères 7
Moeder Lambic
4 “Sudden Death” may sound rather
alarming, but this famous bar,
MAP B3 • Place Fontainas 8
The central Brussels branch of the redesigned in Rococo style in 1926,
revered Saint-Gilles “beer academy”, is named after a card game.
this splendid bar offers hundreds
of mainly Belgian beers, dozens of À La Mort Subite
them on tap, and all are listed in
the catalogue. If you can’t decide
which, ask the staff: they are
experts and always happy to help.
Le Cirio
5
MAP B3 • Rue de la Bourse 18
Another classic, Le Cirio has been
open since 1886 and is famous for
its half-en-half – a mix of still and
sparkling white wine.
078-079_Top_10_Brussels.indd 78 29/06/2016 12:30

Central Brussels ❮❮ 79

Brussels Nightlife


Saturday nights. Inter national DJs
also play here. Living up to its name,
the decoration is rather “bazaar”.
The Music Village
5
MAP B3 • Rue des Pierres 50
• 02 513 13 45
Jazz and blues bar with live concerts
taking place every night: 8:30pm
on weeknights; 9pm on weekends.
Dinner is available either before
or during the performances.
Spirito Martini
6
MAP C6 • Rue Stassart 18
• 483 580 697
Housed in a former Anglican
church, this swish nightclub/
restaurant features a sumptuous
gold and crystal decor, beautiful
lighting and a vast dancefloor.
Archiduc in full swing Madame Moustache
Archiduc
1 7
MAP B2 • 5–7 Quai au Bois à
Brûler • 0489 739 912
MAP B2 • Rue Antoine
Dansaert 6–8 • 02 512 06 52 A retro club (1950s–80s) and concert
This legendary 1930s Art Deco bar – venue, featuring rock’n’roll, swing,
designed like a cruise liner – has funk and jazz. It prides itself
entertained all the jazz greats. on its quirky, cabaret atmosphere.
The place picks up after midnight. Le You
Fuse
2 8
MAP C3 • Rue Duquesnoy 18
• 02 639 14 00
MAP B5 • Rue Blaes 208
• 02 511 97 89 This popular club enjoys a lively
Behind the gritty industrial exterior central location. The music ranges
lies the best club in town. World- from electro and house to 1980s
class DJs spin a mix of techno and retro and R&B. On Sundays, it
drum ’n’ bass. attracts a predominantly gay crowd.
The Flat
Club Avenue
3 9
MAP D5 • Rue de la Reinette 12
MAP C6 • Avenue de la Toison
d’Or 44 • www.clubavenue.be At this town house lounge bar you
A glitzy Upper Town nightclub where can sip your cocktail in the lounge,
international funk blends perfectly bedroom or bathroom!
with cutting-edge French rap and
Havana
R&B artists. 0
MAP B5 • Rue de l’Épée 4
Le Bazaar
4 • 02 502 12 24
The ambience may be Latin but the
MAP B5 • Rue des Capucins 63
• 02 511 26 00 music comes in all varieties at this
It’s hard to miss this club, which is lively dance club. Open late Thursday
over two floors and hosts world and all night at weekends. There are
music and parties most Friday and four bars and a restaurant.
See map on p72
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80 ❯❯ Brussels, Bruges, Antwerp & Ghent Area by Area

Restaurants


La Belle Maraîchère
Comme Chez Soi
1 6
MAP B4 • Place Rouppe 23
MAP B2 • Place Sainte-
• 02 512 29 21 • Closed Sun, Mon, Catherine 11a • 02 512 97 59
Tue L, Wed L • €€€ • Closed Wed, Thu • €€€
Brussels’ most celebrated restaurant A favourite with locals for decades,
is family-run and has two Michelin this timeless wood-panelled
stars. For a taste of the superlative, restaurant serves top-rate
innovative French cuisine, be sure fish dishes.
to book weeks ahead.
Cospaia
7
MAP C5 • Rue Crespel 1
• 02 513 03 03 • Closed Mon, Tue,
Sat L, Sun • €€
This sleek, sexy restaurant, located
on the southern edge of the Pentagon,
serves fusion cuisine. During the day,
opt for the white dining room; at night,
the black room is more romantic.
Aux Armes de Bruxelles
8
L’Ecailler du Palais Royal MAP C3 • Rue des Bouchers 13
• 02 511 55 50 • €€
L’Ecailler du
2 Founded in 1921, Aux Armes de
Palais Royal
Bruxelles is an institution, praised
MAP C4 • Rue Bodenbroek 18 • 02 for its white-linen elegance and
512 87 51 • Closed Sun, Aug • €€€ impec cable Belgian cooking.
One of Brussels’ most prestigious
Restaurant Vincent
fish restaurants, this quiet, refined 9
establishment attracts a mature MAP C3 • Rue des Dominicains
clientele with its classic cuisine. 8–10 • 02 511 26 07 • €€
Dine on mussels and flambéed
Belga Queen
3 steaks in a room decorated with
old marine murals.
MAP C2 • Rue du Fossé-aux-
Loups 32 • 02 217 21 87 • €€€
L’Idiot du Village
This stylish restaurant is housed in 0
an ornate former bank. The menu, MAP B4 • Rue Notre-Seigneur
with a French–Belgium influence 19 • 02 502 55 82 • Closed Sat, Sun
offers better value at lunchtime. • €€€
A long-standing favourite with locals
Kwint
4 who consistently praise the inventive
menus and shabby-chic style.
MAP C4 • Mont des Arts 1
• 02 505 95 95 • Closed Sun • €€€
Customers dine on first-class L’Idiot du Village
fish and pasta, beneath a world-
renowned Arne Quinze sculpture,
at this elegant restaurant.
Sea Grill, SAS Radisson
5
MAP C2 • Rue du Fossé-aux-
Loups 47 • 02 218 08 00 • Closed Sat,
Sun • €€€
Boasting two Michelin stars, this fish
restaurant offers refined dining.
080-081_Top_10_Brussels.indd 80 29/06/2016 12:30

Central Brussels ❮❮ 81

Lunch Spots, Brasseries
and Bistros


fillings, as well as temp ting pastries,
PRICE CATEGORIES
For a three-course meal for one with half Le Pain Quotidien (“Daily Bread”)
a bottle of wine (or equivalent meal), is a huge success. This is the most
taxes and extra charges. central of the many city branches.
€ under €40 €€ €40–60 €€€ over €60 Chez Patrick
7
MAP C3 • Rue des Chapeliers 6
Cap d’Argent
1 • 02 511 98 15 • Closed Sun, Mon • €€
This cherished and popular
MAP D3 • Rue Ravenstein 10
• 02 513 09 19 • Closed Sun • € restaurant refuses to change or
A no-frills bistro admired for tasty diverge from its traditions of solid,
Belgian classics and great service. good-value, truly Belgian cooking.
The prices are reasonable consid-
In ‘t Spinnekopke
2 ering its location near Grand Place.
MAP A3 • Place du Jardin-
aux-Fleurs 1 • 02 511 86 95
• Closed Sun L • €
An appealing estaminet (traditional
pub) that stands by its 18th-century
heritage to present a menu of fine
Belgian-Bruxellois dishes.
Bozar Brasserie
3
MAP D3 • Rue Baron Horta 3
• 02 503 00 00 • Closed Sun, Mon
• €€€
Designed by Victor Horta in 1928,
this Art Deco gem is in beautiful Art Deco style Taverne du Passage
condition after a loving renovation.
Taverne du Passage
The lauded chef prepares faultless 8
Belgian cuisine. MAP C3 • Galerie de la Reine
30 • 02 512 37 31 • €€
Les Petits Oignons
4 A traditional 1930s Belgian diner
MAP C5 • Rue de la Régence
with accomplished waiters and
25 • 02 511 76 15 • €€ an enthusiastic local clientele.
It’s a treat to eat at this elegant The fish dishes are excellent.
brasserie, which receives glowing
‘t Kelderke
reviews. The carefully selected wine 9
list also contributes to its popularity. MAP C3 • Grand Place 15
• 02 513 73 44 • €
Le Crachin
5 A 17th-century cellar-restaurant
MAP B2 • Rue de Flandre 12
delivering feasts of Belgian cuisine.
• 02 502 13 00 • € The good food attracts appreciative
A jovial café serving sweet and locals as well as tourists.
savoury traditional Breton pancakes
Chez Léon
with mugs of Brittany cider. 0
MAP C3 • Rue des Bouchers 18
Le Pain Quotidien
6 • 02 511 14 15 • €
Established in 1893, this restaurant
MAP B2 • Rue Antoine
Dansaert 16a • 02 502 23 61 • € is a moules-frites specialist that has
Selling excellent bread with delicious become an international brand.
See map on p72
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82 ❯❯ Brussels, Bruges, Antwerp & Ghent Area by Area

Outer Brussels


Over the centuries, Brussels expanded
beyond the old city walls, gradually
absorbing neighbouring towns and villages.
These outlying communes – such as Ixelles,
Saint-Gilles and Anderlecht – still retain
their distinctive characters. As a result,
there is huge variety across outer Brussels.
An excellent public transport system makes
it easy to get around these suburbs, and the
Parc du
Cinquantenaire highlights listed here are worth the journey.
The Atomium
1 Brussels’ 1958 Universal Exposition.
It stands 102 m (335 ft) tall and has
MAP F1 (inset) • Square de
l’Atomium, 1020 BRU (Laeken) nine 18 m (59 ft) diameter spheres.
• 02 475 47 75 • Open 10am–6pm
Horta Museum
daily • Adm • www.atomium.be 2
This giant model of an iron crystal A symphony in Art Nouveau
was built as Belgium’s exhibit at design (see pp22–3).
AREA MAP OF OUTER BRUSSELS
A12 STR
STEENOKKERZEEL
WEMMEL
WEMMEL A12 STROMBEEK-BEVEROMBEEK-BEVER STEENOKKERZEEL
Hey Heyselsel Zav Zaventementem
Heiz Heizelel DIEGEM R0 R0
DIEGEM
R0 R0 HEY HEYSELSEL Parc de Laek N1 N1 R22 R22 A201 A201
Parc de Laekenen
HEIZEL Park van Laken
HEIZELPark van Laken
N9 N9
LAEKEN
Jette Jette LAEKEN R21 R21 Schaerbeek
Schaerbeek
LAKEN
LAKEN Schaarbeek A201 A201
Schaarbeek
ZAVENTEM
E40 E40 JET JETTETE EVERE ZAVENTEM N2 N2
EVERE
GANSHOREN
GANSHOREN
SCHAERBEEK--
SCHAERBEEK
R20 R20
SCHAARBEEK E40 E40
SCHAARBEEK
N22 N22
Simonis
BER BERCHEM-STE-AGATHECHEM-STE-AGATHE Simonis N2 N2 E40 E40
ST-A ST-AGATHA-BERCHEMGATHA-BERCHEM Gar Gare du Norde du Nord KRAAINEM
KRAAINEM
Noor Noordstationdstation
KOEKELBERGG
KOEKELBER ST- ST-JOSSEJOSSE
ST- ST-JOOSTJOOST ST-LA WEZEMBEEK
WEZEMBEEK
ST-LAMBERTMBERT
OPPEM
ST-LAMBRECHTSMBRECHTS
BRUXELLES
N8 N8 BRUXELLES N2 N2 ST-LA R0 OPPEM
BRUSSEL
Stockelel
R0
ANDERLECHT Clemenceau BRUSSEL Stock
ANDERLECHT Clemenceau
Joséphine-
Joséphine-
Charlotte
Charlotte
N3 N3
WOLUWE-ST-PIERRE
St-Guidon
St-Guidon WOLUWE-ST-PIERRE N3 N3
TERVUREN
ST-PIETERS-WOLUWE
St-Guido Gar Gare du Midie du Midi ST-PIETERS-WOLUWE TERVUREN
St-Guido
Mouterijerij
Zuidsta Mout
Zuidstationtion
Germoir
Germoir N3 N3
ST-GILLES HortaHorta
R0 R0 ST-GILLES IXELLES
IXELLES
ELSENE
N6 N6 ST- ST-GILLISGILLIS ELSENE
AUDERGHEMGHEM
AUDER
OUDERGEMGEM
OUDER
restaurants
UC UCCLECLE
UKKEL
UKKEL
FOREST
FOREST N5 N5 best of the rest
WATERMAEL
VORST WATERMAEL E411 E411
VORST
Bois de la Cambre ambre
0 kilometreses
0 kilometr 2 2 Bois de la C
WATERMAAL
Terk Terkamerenbosamerenbos WATERMAAL
0 miles 2 2
0 miles
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Outer Brussels ❮❮ 83


huge Plasticarium collection of
the largest plastic design objects in
Europe, from playful Pop Art to the
iconic Post-Modern cantilever chair.
Train World
4
MAP G2 • Place Princesse
Élisabeth 5, 1030 BRU (Schaerbeek)
• 02 224 74 98 • Open 10am–5pm
Tue–Sun (last entry 3:30pm) • Adm
• www.trainworld.be
This long-awaited railway museum
The Atomium opened in 2015, gathering together
the impressive historic collection
3 SNCB) for the first time. It contains
Art and Design Atomium of Belgian national railways (NMBS/
Museum
MAP F1 • Place de Belgique, locomotives dating back to the
1020 BRU (Laeken) • 02 669 49 29 1840s, plus carriages and all sorts
• Open 10am–6pm Wed–Mon of railway paraphernalia, theatrically
• Adm • www.adamuseum.be presented with dramatic lighting,
In the shadow of the Atomium, this sound effects and imaginative props
museum focuses solely on modern that help to personalize the exhibits.
design. The main highlight is the The beautiful and immaculately
restored 19th-century Schaerbeek
AREA MAP OF OUTER BRUSSELS station is the main hub (accessible
by train, tram and bus), with adjacent
A12 STR
STEENOKKERZEEL
WEMMEL
WEMMEL A12 STROMBEEK-BEVEROMBEEK-BEVER STEENOKKERZEEL modern, purpose-built exhibition
halls housing the main exhibits.
Hey Heyselsel Zav Zaventementem
Heiz Heizelel DIEGEM R0 R0
DIEGEM
Parc de Laekenen
R0 R0 HEY HEYSELSEL Parc de Laek N1 N1 R22 R22 A201 A201
HEIZEL Park van Laken
HEIZELPark van Laken
N9 N9
LAEKEN
Jette Jette LAEKEN R21 R21 Schaerbeek
Schaerbeek
LAKEN
LAKEN Schaarbeek A201 A201
Schaarbeek
ZAVENTEM
E40 E40 JET JETTETE EVERE ZAVENTEM N2 N2
EVERE
GANSHOREN
GANSHOREN
SCHAERBEEK--
SCHAERBEEK
R20 R20
SCHAARBEEK E40 E40
SCHAARBEEK
N22 N22
Simonis
BER BERCHEM-STE-AGATHECHEM-STE-AGATHE Simonis N2 N2 E40 E40
ST-AGATHA-BERCHEMGATHA-BERCHEM
ST-A Gar Gare du Norde du Nord KRAAINEM
KRAAINEM
Noor Noordstationdstation
KOEKELBER ST- ST-JOSSEJOSSE
KOEKELBERGG
ST- ST-JOOSTJOOST ST-LA WEZEMBEEK
WEZEMBEEK
ST-LAMBERTMBERT
OPPEM
ST-LAMBRECHTSMBRECHTS
BRUXELLES
N8 N8 BRUXELLES N2 N2 ST-LA R0 OPPEM
BRUSSEL
Stockelel
R0
ANDERLECHT Clemenceau BRUSSEL Stock
ANDERLECHT Clemenceau
Joséphine-
Joséphine-
Charlotte
Charlotte
N3 N3 Van Buuren Museum
WOLUWE-ST-PIERRE
St-Guidon
St-Guidon WOLUWE-ST-PIERRE N3 N3
TERVUREN
ST-PIETERS-WOLUWE
St-Guido
Van Buuren Museum
St-Guido Gar Gare du Midie du Midi ST-PIETERS-WOLUWE TERVUREN
Zuidsta Mout Mouterijerij 5
Zuidstationtion
Germoir
Germoir N3 N3
ST-GILLES HortaHorta
R0 R0 ST-GILLES IXELLES MAP G3 • Ave Léo Errera 41,
IXELLES
ELSENE
N6 N6 ST- ST-GILLISGILLIS ELSENE 1180 BRU (Uccle) • 02 343 48 51
AUDERGHEMGHEM
AUDER Top 10 Sights • Museum & garden open 2–5:30pm
OUDER see pp82–5 daily • Adm • www.
OUDERGEMGEM
restaurants
Restaurants, Cafés
UC UCCLECLE museumvanbuuren.com
UKKEL and Bars see p87 This beautifully preserved Art Deco
UKKEL
FOREST
FOREST N5 N5 best of the rest
VORST
VORST WATERMAEL E411 E411 The Best of the Rest home of David and Alice van Buuren
WATERMAEL
Bois de la Cambre ambre
0 kilometr 2 2 Bois de la C see p86
0 kilometreses
WATERMAAL
Terk Terkamerenbosamerenbos WATERMAAL has excellent furniture and stained
0 miles 2 2 glass, plus contemporary paintings.
0 miles
082-085_Top_10_Brussels.indd 83 29/06/2016 12:30

84 ❯❯ Brussels, Bruges, Antwerp & Ghent Area by Area

Musée d’Ixelles
6 KING LÉOPOLD II
MAP E7 • Rue J Van Volsem 71,
1050 BRU (Ixelles) • 02 515 64 21 Belgium’s second king reigned from
• Open 9:30am–5pm Tue–Sun; closed 1865 to 1909, a time of great change
Mon and public hols • Adm • www. in Europe. Léopold II was an enthusiast
museumofixelles.irisnet.be of modernization, and undertook many
It’s well worth the trek to this southern grand building projects. Determined
suburb for this small but excellent to make Belgium a colonial power, he
created and ruled the Belgian Congo.
municipal art collection. It has a However, his regime there was brutal,
number of minor works by great and millions died under his reign.
masters, including Rembrandt,
Delacroix and Picasso, as well as
an excellent collection of posters by world. Close by are the Musée
Toulouse-Lautrec. This is also a good Royal de l’Armée et d’Histoire
place to see more work by Symbolists Militaire (military museum) and
such as Léon Spilliaert and Léon Autoworld (collection of vintage
Frédéric, the much-cherished cars). The park also contains the
sculpture and Fauve-style painting Atelier de Moulage, and the Pavillon
of Rik Wouters, as well as Surrealist Horta-Lambeaux, a Neo-Classical
paintings, some by Magritte. work by a young Victor Horta
to house an erotic sculpture by
Jef Lambeaux (1852–1908).
Parlement Européen
8
and the Parlamentarium
MAP F5 • Rue Wiertz 60, 1047 BRU
• 02 283 22 22 • Audio tour open
10am & 3pm Mon–Thu, 10am Fri
• Parlamentarium open 1–6pm
Art displayed at the Musée d’lxelles Mon, 9am–6pm Tue–Fri, 10am–
6pm Sat & Sun • www.europarl.
Parc du Cinquantenaire
7 europa.eu
MAP H4 • Parc du
EU politics may seem a dry, complex
Cinquantenaire, 1000 BRU • Musées issue, but a trip to the European
Royaux d’Art et d’Histoire: 02 741 Parliament and its visitor centre will
72 11; open 9:30am–5pm Tue–Fri, convince you otherwise. Free audio-
10am–5pm Sat–Sun; closed Mon guided tours of the Parliament are
and public hols; adm (free 1–5pm available, while the Parlamentarium
1st Wed of month); www.kmkg-mrah. explains the past, present and future
be • Musée Royal de l’Armée: 02 737 of the EU in more detail. Visitors are
78 11; open 9am–noon, 1–4:45pm; provided with a multimedia handset,
closed Mon and public hols; adm;
www.klm-mra.be • Autoworld: 02 Parlement européen
736 41 65; open Apr–Sep: 10am–
6pm daily, Oct–Mar: 10am–5pm daily;
adm; www.autoworld.be
In 1880 King Léopold II staged a
grand international fair to celebrate
the 50th anniver sary of the founding
of his nation. The vast exhibition
halls he erected, together with
their successors, now contain a
cluster of major museums. The
most specta cular is the Musées
Royaux d’Art et d’Histoire, a collect-
ion of treasures from around the




Eyewitness Travel – Top 10 series LAYERS PRINTED:
Two-column, 8.5pt grid “UK” LAYER
(SourceReport v.1.9)
082-085_Top_10_Brussels.indd 84 15/08/2016 16:59
Date 24th June 2015
Size 100mm x 191mm

Outer Brussels ❮❮ 85


which guides them around the A WALK THROUGH THE
interactive displays. Meet the MEPs BRUSSELS OF LÉOPOLD II
who shape European laws, listen Hôtel Saint-Cyr
Parc du
to the multitude of EU languages Schuman Cinquantenaire
in the Tunnel of Voices, and find out métro station
why the Parliament decamps from Wiertz Museum
Le Clan
Brussels to Strasbourg every month. des Belges
Place Jourdan
Parc
Meunier Museum
9 d’Ixelles Léopold
Musée
MAP G2 • Rue de l’Abbaye 59,
1050 BRU (Ixelles) • 02 648 44 49 Café Belga
• Open 10am–noon, 12:45–5pm Tue–
Fri; closed Mon, weekends and public Horta
hols • www.fine-arts-museum.be Museum Meunier Museum
Constantin Meunier (1831–1905) MORNING
was one of the great sculptors of
the late 19th century, famous for Put on your best walking shoes,
his distinctive bronzes of working because you’re going to cover at
people – especially puddleurs least 5 km (3 miles) of pavement
and take in half a dozen
(forge workers). The museum museums. You don’t have to do
occupies his former home, and them all, of course, and don’t try
contains some excellent examples this on a Monday, when most of
of his work. the museums are closed. Start
at the Schuman métro station
in the heart of the European
Quarter, close to the Justus
Lipsius Building. If you’re feeling
fit, stride up Rue Archimède to
admire the weirdest Art Nouveau
building of them all – the Hôtel
Saint-Cyr in Square Ambiorix
(see p48). Otherwise, head into
the Parc du Cinquantenaire (see
p84) and take your pick of the
museums. To refresh yourself,
The Premature Burial, Antoine Wiertz
go to Place Jourdan, where
Wiertz Museum
0 there are numerous cafés and
restaurants to suit all pockets.
MAP F5 • Rue Vautier 62, 1050
BRU (Ixelles) • 02 648 17 18 • Open AFTERNOON
10am–noon, 12:45–5pm Tue–Fri;
closed Mon, public hols and Sat–Sun Cross the Parc Léopold to visit
(except for pre-booked groups) the Wiertz Museum, then walk
about 1 km (1000 yd) to the
• www.fine-arts-museum.be delightful Musée d’Ixelles (see
This is one of the most extraordinary p84). If you’ve had enough already,
museums in Brussels. Antoine you could slink into the trendy
Wiertz (1806–65) was an artist Café Belga in the 1930s Flagey
whose self-esteem far outstripped radio building (see p87);
his talent. As a young man, he was otherwise, push on down the
egged on by patrons, and success Chaussée de Vleurgat to the
Meunier Museum. Now you’re
went to his head. This grand studio only 10 minutes away from
was built so that he could paint works the Horta Museum (see pp22–3).
on a scale to rival Michelangelo. The From here you can get a tram
grandiose canvases are interesting home, or wander around the Art
in themselves, but so too are the Nouveau houses in the vicinity
smaller works, many so macabre (see pp48–9) and finish the day
and moralistic they inspire both at Le Clan des Belges (see p87).
wonderment and mirth.
See map on pp82–3
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86 ❯❯ Brussels, Bruges, Antwerp & Ghent Area by Area

The Best of the Rest


Musée René Magritte
1
MAP F1 • Rue Esseghem 135,
1090 BRU • 02 428 26 26 • Open
10am–6pm Wed–Sun • Adm
• www.magrittemuseum.be
Magritte’s modest former abode.
Musée du Tram
2
MAP G2 • Ave de Tervuren
364B, 1150 BRU (Woluwe-Saint-Pierre)
• 02 515 31 08 • Open Apr–Sep: 2–6pm Muséum des Sciences Naturelles
Wed, 1–7pm Sat , Sun & public hols •
Muséum des Sciences
Adm • www.trammuseumbrussels.be 6
A splendid collection of Brussels’ Naturelles
historic trams, with tram rides. MAP F5 • Rue Vautier 29, 1000 BRU
• Open 9:30am–5pm Tue–Fri,
Béguinage d’Anderlecht
3 10am–6pm Sat, Sun & school hols •
MAP F2 • Rue du Chapelain 8,
Adm • www.naturalsciences.be
1070 BRU • 02 521 13 83 • Open See complete dinosaur skeletons.
10am–noon, 2–5pm Tue–Sun • Adm
Basilique Nationale
Tiny béguinage (see p92), now 7
a museum showing how the du Sacré-Coeur
béguines lived. MAP F1 • Parvis de la Basilique 1,
1081 BRU (Ganshoren) • 02 421 16 60
• Open Easter–Oct: 9am–5pm; Nov–
Easter: 10am–4pm • Adm for
panorama only
The largest Art Deco building
ever built? Remarkable view
from its copper-green dome.
Cantillon
8
MAP A4 • Rue Gheude 56, 1070
BRU (Anderlecht) • 02 521 49 28
Serres Royales de Laeken • Open 10am–5pm Mon–Sat (last
entry 4pm) • Closed Wed, Sun &
Serres Royales
4 public hols • Adm • www.cantillon.be
de Laeken
A splendid dusty, old brewery.
MAP G1 • Ave du Parc Royal
Maison Autrique
(Domaine Royal), 1020 BRU • 02 9
551 20 20 • Open Apr–May • Adm MAP G2 • Chaussée de
Fabulous royal greenhouses. Haecht 266, 1030 BRU (Schaer beek)
• Open noon–6pm Wed–Sun
Maison d’Érasme
5 • Adm • www.autrique.be
Victor Horta’s first project (see p54).
MAP F2 • Rue du Chapitre
31, 1070 BRU (Anderlecht)
Koninklijk Museum
• 02 521 13 83 • Open 10am–6pm 0
Tue–Sun • Adm • www. voor Midden-Afrika
erasmushouse.museum MAP H2 • Leuvensesteenweg 13,
This charming red-brick house 3080 Tervuren • 02 769 52 11
where Dutch humanist Erasmus • www.africamuseum.be
stayed in 1521 is now a museum First-class Africa museum.
dedicated to his life. Closed for renovation until 2017.
See map on pp82–3
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Outer Brussels ❮❮ 87

Restaurants, Cafés and Bars


Rouge Tomate
5
PRICE CATEGORIES
For a three-course meal for one with half MAP C6 • Ave Louise 190, 1050
a bottle of wine (or equivalent meal), BRU (Ixelles) • 02 647 70 44 • Closed
taxes and extra charges. Sat L & Sun • €€€
Dine out on Mediterranean fare, a
€ under €40 €€ €40–60 €€€ over €60
perfect choice for vegetarians.
Le Balmoral Milk Bar
Bruneau
1 6
MAP F1 • Ave Broustin 73–5,
MAP G2 • Place Georges
1083 BRU (Ganshoren) • 02 421 70 Brugmann 21, 1050 BRU (Ixelles) • 02
70 • Closed Tue, Wed • €€€ 347 08 82 • Closed Mon & Tue • €
This is one of Brussels’ finest This popular “Happy Days”-style
restaurants. Chef Jean-Pierre 1960s diner is praised for its burgers
Bruneau has been given many and milkshakes.
esteemed awards for his
La Canne en Ville
exquisite seasonal French cuisine. 7
MAP G2 • Rue de la Réforme
La Quincaillerie
2 22, 1050 BRU (Ixelles) • 02 347 29 26
• Closed Sat L, Sun & weekends Jul &
MAP G2 • Rue du Page 45,
1050 BRU (Ixelles) • 02 533 98 33 Aug • €€€
• Closed Sun L • €€ A delightful restaurant in a
The spectacular historic interior converted butcher’s shop. The
of this converted hardware store cooking is French-based.
and the exciting menu more than
Café Belga (Flagey
make up for the gruff service. 8
building)
Le Clan des Belges
3 MAP G2 • Place Eugène Flagey, 1050
BRU (Ixelles) • 02 640 35 08 • www.
MAP D6 • Rue de la Paix 20,
1050 BRU (Ixelles) • 02 511 11 21 • € cafebelga.be
This lively brasserie is very popular Trendy café, set in an extraordinary
with locals for its classic Belgian 1930s Art Deco Flagey radio building,
dishes at reasonable prices. that draws a young arty crowd. Also
a thriving music venue.
Le Chapeau Blanc
4 Moeder Lambic
MAP F2 • Rue Wayez 200,1070
BRU (Anderlecht) • 02 520 02 02 • €€ 9
MAP G2 • Rue de Savoie
“The White Hat” is a charming 68, 1060 BRU (Saint-Gilles)
brasserie serving excellent • 02 544 16 99
mussels and oysters (in season), A welcoming pub devoted to
and steaks. beer, with 450 kinds on offer.
L’Ultime
0
Atome
MAP D5 • Rue St
Boniface 14, 1050 BRU
(Ixelles) • 02 513 48 84
• Open daily • €
Trendy brasserie
where locals come
to drink artisan beers
and French red wine.
L’Ultime Atome
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90 ❯❯ Brussels, Bruges, Antwerp & Ghent Area by Area

Bruges


In the Middle Ages, Bruges was one of Europe’s most prosperous
cities. Its wealth derived from trade that brought silks, furs, Asian
carpets, wine, fruits, and even exotic pets to its busy network of
canals. In about 1500 Bruges fell from grace and slumbered for
four centuries. It remained a pocket-sized medieval city, its poverty
alleviated by almshouses, pious institutions, and a cottage industry
supplying lace. In the late 19th century, antiquarians recognized
Bruges as a historic gem, and began a campaign of preservation. In
addition to many hotels, restaurants and bars, Bruges has famous
art collections, and is a walkable city with surprises on every corner.

AREA MAP OF BRUGES
KOMVEST 0 metres 400
WERF- ST-CLARADREEF LA NGEREI POTTERIEREI
PLEIN J. EN M. SABBESTRAAT PETERSELIESTRAAT 0 yards 400
KONINGIN ELISABETHAAN VLAMINGDAM ST-CLARASTRAAT OLIEBAAN
W E R F S T R A AT
ANNUNTIATENSTRAAT
BALIESTR. SNAGGAARDSTRAAT B U I T E N K R U I S V E S T DAMPOORTSTRAAT
CARME RSSTRAAT
LANGEREI POTTERIEREI ROPEERDSTR. ROLWEG K RUISVEST
LANGE R A AMSTR.
GOUDEN
HANDSTR. CARMERSSTR.
AUGUSTIJNENREI GO UD E N- HANDREI JERUZALEMSTR. BALSTRAAT STIJN STREUVELSSTR.
ST-JORISSTRAAT
JAN MIRAELSTR.
POITEVINSTR. GENTHOF RODESTRAAT LANGESTRAAT
E ZEL ST R AAT
SPIEGELREI
SP INOL AREI
PEPERSTR.
PLEIN ACADEMIESTR.
ZAKSKE BEURS KONINGSTRAAT VERVERSDIJK NIE U W L A N D
RAAMSTRAAT
ROZENDAL
VE R B RA N D
ST-ANNAREI
OUDE ZAK ST-JAK OB S S T R. KUIPERSSTR. VLAMINGSTR. ST-JANSSTR. RIDDERSSTR. MOLENMEERS BALSEMBOOMSTRAAT
EIER- PHILIPSTOCK- HOOGSTR. L A N G E S TR. VULDERSSTRAAT KAZER NEVEST BUITEN KA Z E RNE VE S T
STRAAT
MARKT
MOERSTRAAT MUNT WOLLESTR. VIS- GROENEREI GANZENSTR. HOOISTR.
GELDMUNTSTR.
BILKSKE
PLEIN
BEENHOUWERSSTR.
SPEELMANSREI NOOR DZ A N D ST R . ZILVERSTR. STEENSTRAAT O U D E BURG MARKT PARK Kon. STRAAT Top 1
ZWARTE LEERTOUWERS-
see pp91–3
NIEUW-
ZUIDZANDSTR. SCHAARSTR. see p98
‘T ZAND MARIA STRAAT DIJVER EEKHOUTSTRAAT Astridpark Restaurants
VRIJDAG- K. VUL D ERSSTR.
MARKT Shopping
GOEZEPU T S T R. STRAAT GROENINGE GENT WEG GENTPOORT- see p96
NIEUWE STR AAT The Best of the Rest
WAL- see p94
PLEIN OUDE GENT WEG
ZONNEKEMEERS Cafés, Tearooms
GENTPOORTVEST and Bars see p97
WES TM E E RS
OOSTMEERS
Lunch Spots, Bistros,
Brasseries see p99
KONING ALBERTLAAN
BUITEN
KATELIJNESTRAAT
VISSPAANSTRAAT
NOORDSTRAAT
Minnewater GENTPOORTVEST Eastern Bruges:
Sint-Anna see p95
Bruges station
200 metres
Previous pages Restaurants illuminate the Markt at night, Bruges
090-093_Top_10_Brussels.indd 90 29/06/2016 12:30

Bruges ❮❮ 91



















AREA MAP OF BRUGES Attractive gabled buildings lining the Markt
The Markt
Steenhouwersdijk
1 4
and Groenerei
MAP K4
The central marketplace of Bruges MAP L4
still retains much of its original Just south of the Burg is one of the
outline, flanked by old step-gabled prettiest stretches of canal, where
guildhouses, but the Provinciaal Hof calm waters reflect the medieval
(former local government) building bridges and skyline. Here, the
on the eastern side is actually 19th Steenhouwersdijk (stonemason’s
century; the left-hand wing now embankment) becomes the
houses the multi-media experience Groenerei (green canal) and is
“Historium” (see p94). The Markt is flanked by a picturesque almshouse
also the site of a large market on called De Pelikaan, dated 1714 and
Wednesday mornings, and the named after the symbol of Christian
Christmas market (with an ice rink charity, the pelican.
taking centre stage) in December.
Belfort
2
MAP K4 • Markt 7 • Open
9:30am–6pm daily (last entry 5pm)
• Adm
For a breathtaking view over Bruges’
medieval streets, climb the 366
steps to the top of the Belfort
(belfry). The set of bells at the top
includes the 47 carillon bells that are
rung by a mechanism installed in
1748. But they can also be played
manually from a keyboard on the
floor below by the town’s beiaardier The canal from Steenhouwersdijk
(carillon player) – Bruges’ highest
Groeningemuseum
paid official, as the joke goes. 5
Not only is this one of the
The Burg
3 great northern European collections,
with star roles played by the late
This intimate and fetching
square – a glittering confection of medieval masters of Flemish
historic architecture, sculpture and painting, such as Jan van Eyck and
gilding – was the focal point of old Hans Memling; it is also refreshingly
Bruges (see pp28–9). compact (see pp30–31).



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92 ❯❯ Brussels, Bruges, Antwerp & Ghent Area by Area

Sint-Janshospitaal
6 BÉGUINAGES
Hans Memling (c. 1430–94)
was one of the leading artists of A feature of the Low Countries, these
Burgundian Flanders, and the St communities were founded in the 13th
John’s Hospital ranked among his century as sanctuaries for the many
most important patrons. Visitors women (béguines) left single or
are advised to use the excellent widowed by the Crusades. Although
audioguides available with the deeply pious, a béguinage or begijnhof
was not a convent: the béguines could
entry ticket. The medieval hospital leave to marry. Surviving béguinages
wards display a fascinating misc­ are still used for social housing, with
ellany of treasures, paintings and their modest charms intact (below).
historic medical equipment; there
is also a 15th­century pharmacy.
The exhibition culminates in the
chapel, which contains the hospital’s
priceless collection of Memling
paintings (see pp30–31).
Onze-Lieve-Vrouwekerk
7
MAP K5 • Mariastraat • Open
9:30am–5pm Mon–Sat, 1:30pm–5pm
Sun • Adm for museum (church free)
The towering spire of the Church of
Our Lady (the tallest structure in
the city) is another key landmark
of Bruges’ skyline. It’s a strange Michelangelo’s Madonna and Child
architectural mish mash: the exterior (1504–5) – a Carrara marble statue
is a good example of the rather that came here by virtue of Bruges’
austere style known as Scheldt close links to Renais sance Italy, and
Gothic, and was built over two the only sculpture by Michelangelo
centuries from 1220 onward. The to leave Italy during his lifetime. The
interior is essentially church’s museum includes the beaut­
Gothic, with Baroque iful gilt­brass tombs of Charles the
flourishes to its Bold (1433–77), Duke of Burgundy,
statues and extrava­ and his daughter Mary (1457–82).
gant pulpit (1743). Extensive renovation work (taking
This is a rather place until 2018) means some
surprising setting artifacts may be out of view.
for one of the
Arentshuis
great treasures 8
of northern MAP K4 • Dijver 16 • Open
Europe: 9:30am–5pm Tue–Sun • Adm charge
Born in Bruges, the gifted painter
Frank Brangwyn (1867–1956) was
the son of William Curtis Brangwyn,
one of a group of British artists and
archi tects involved in restoring the
city to its Gothic glory. Frank Brangwyn
donated an impressive, small,
collection of his work to the city. It is
now exhibited on the upper floor of
the late­18th­century Arentshuis
building. The ground floor is used
for temporary exhibitions.

Onze-Lieve-Vrouwekerk






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Bruges ❮❮ 93

Gruuthusemuseum
9 A DAY IN BRUGES
MAP K4 • Dijver 17 • Closed
for renovation until the end of 2017 Langerei Canal to
If it is hard to picture quite how life Damme
was led during Bruges’ past, this Frietmuseum
Beursplein
museum will do much to fill in the Burg
gaps. It presents a rich collection of Groenerei
everyday artifacts from the homes of ‘t Brugs Beertje Markt Vismarkt
Steenhouwersdijk
the merchant classes, from kitchen­ Dijver
ware to musical instruments, Onze-Lieve-
furniture and textiles, and even De Proeverie Vrouwekerk
weapons. The 15th­century building Begijnhof
was once the palace of the Lords of Minnewater
Gruuthuse, who became wealthy
through a tax on beer flavourings MORNING
(gruut); as a mark of their status, the
house has a gallery overlooking the A day of wandering. Begin in
choir of the Onze­Lieve­Vrouwekerk the Burg (see pp28–9) and head
next door. The house was restored in south across Blinde Ezelstraat.
Linger beside the canals
the 19th century to exhibit the pieces on Steenhouwersdijk and
that founded this collection. Groenerei (see p91); walk through
Huidenvettersplein to the Dijver
for the prettiest views of the city.
Now make your way past Onze-
Lieve-Vrouwekerk to Mariastraat
and Katelijnestraat, where
you could stop for a divine hot
chocolate at De Proeverie (see
p97). Take Wijngaardstraat to
the Begijnhof, loop around the
Minnewater (see p94), and go
back along Katelijnestraat. Note
the almshouses that pop up on
this street (for instance at Nos
87–101 and 79–83). For lunch,
try the Vismarkt area – Wijnbar
Est, for example (see p97).
AFTERNOON
Gruuthusemuseum
Now you are going to pass
Begijnhof
0 through the city’s medieval
trading centre. From the Markt
MAP K5 • Wijngaardstraat
• Grounds open 6:30am–6:30pm (see p91) walk up Vlamingstraat.
At Beursplein, there was a
daily; Begijnhuisje open 10am–5pm cluster of national “lodges” –
• Adm to Begijnhuisje (grounds free) headquarters of foreign traders –
This beautiful enclave was such as the Genoese Lodge (No
home to a community of béguines 33). One of Bruge’s more unusual
(see box) from 1245 until 1928, attractions is on Vlamingstraat:
and expresses something essential the Frietmuseum (see p94) is
dedicated to frites. Then walk up
about the soul of Bruges. Around Langerei to follow the canal that
the peaceful, tree­shaded park leads to Damme (see p69), where
are the 17th­ and 18th­century goods were transferred from
whitewashed homes of the béguines, ships to canal barges. Head back
and now occupied by Benedictine down Sint­Jakobstraat, and take
nuns. You can visit the grounds, a detour to ‘t Brugs Beertje (see
the béguinage church and one p97), with its famed beers.
of the houses (Begijnhuisje).
See map on p90

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94 ❯❯ Brussels, Bruges, Antwerp & Ghent Area by Area

The Best of the Rest


Sint-
1
Salvatorskathedraal
MAP K4 • Steenstraat • Open
10am–1pm & 2–5:30pm (til 3:30pm
Sat) Mon–Sat, 11:30am–12pm &
2–5pm Sun
It was at St Saviour’s that the Order
of the Golden Fleece met in 1478.
Sint-Walburgakerk
2
MAP L3 • Sint-Maartensplein
• Open 10am–1pm & 2–6pm daily
This handsome Jesuit church, built Huisbrouwerij De Halve Maan
in 1619–43, is a Baroque symphony
Huisbrouwerij
in black-and-white marble, with a 6
supreme wooden pulpit. De Halve Maan
MAP K5 • Walplein 26 • 050 44 42 22
Godshuis De Vos
3 • Tours 11am–4pm daily (to 5pm Sat)
• Adm • www.halvemaan.be
MAP K5 • Noordstraat 2–8
The almshouses (godshuizen) of Follow the beer-making process at
Bruges are easily identified by their this brewery, in operation since 1856.
humble whitewashed walls, inscribed
Frietmuseum
with names and dates. This delightful 7
example dates from 1643. MAP K3 • Vlamingstraat 33
• 050 34 01 50 • Open 10am–5pm
Minnewater
4 daily • Adm • www.frietmuseum.be
This unusual museum is dedicated
MAP K6
Romantic, willow-lined lake formed to the Belgian’s adored frites.
by a sluice gate on the River Reie –
Choco-Story
a hectic port in medieval times. 8
MAP L3 • Wijnzakstraat 2
• 050 61 22 37 • Open 10am–5pm
daily • Adm • www. choco-story-
brugge.be
This converted 15th-century taverne
educates visitors on the production
of famous Belgian chocolate.
Historium
9
MAP K4 • Markt 1 • 050 27
03 11 • Open 10am–6pm daily
• Adm • www.historium.be
A multi-media experience
evoking the medieval Golden
Swans on Minnewater lake Age of Bruges through a tale
of young romance.
Diamant museum
5 Sint -Jakobskerk
MAP K5 • Katelijnestraat 43
• 050 34 20 56 • Open 10:30am– 0
MAP K3 • Open Jul–Aug only:
5:30pm daily • Closed 2nd & 3rd 2–5:30pm Mon–Fri & Sun, 2–4pm Sat
weeks Jan • Adm • www.diamond The church of St James is Bruges’
museum.be richest parish church and contains
The history of diamonds explained. notable paintings and tombs.
See map on p90
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Bruges ❮❮ 95

Eastern Bruges: Sint-Anna


Schuttersgilde
Onze-Lieve-Vrouw
1 6
ter Potterie
Sint-Sebastiaan
MAP L1 • Potterierei 79 • Open MAP M2 • Carmersstraat 174 • 050
9:30am–12:30pm, 1:30–5pm Tue–Sun 33 16 26 • Open Apr–Sep: 10am–
• Adm noon Tue–Thu, 2–5pm Sat; Oct–Mar:
This charming little museum 2–5pm Tue–Thu & Sat • Adm
combines treasures, oddities This historic archers’ guildhouse
and an elaborate Baroque chapel. still functions as an archery club.
Duinenbrug
Jeruzalemkapel
2 7
MAP L2
MAP L3 • Peperstraat 3 • 050
Bruges’ canals were spanned 33 88 83 • Open 10am–5pm Mon–Sat
by charming little drawbridges • Adm • www.adornes.org
to allow boats to pass. This one A real curiosity – a 15th-century
is a reconstruction from 1976. private chapel inspired by pilgrimages
to Jerusalem. Next door is the
Volkskundemuseum
3 Kantcentrum (Lace Centre).
MAP L3 • Balstraat 43
Windmills on
• Open 9:30am–5pm Tue–Sun 8
• Adm the Kruisvest
Occupying eight 17th-century MAP M2 • Open 9:30am–12:30pm
almshouses in the east of the & 1:30–5pm Tue–Sun (Sint-
city, Bruges’ folk museum presents Janshuismolen: Apr–Sep;
a fascinating collection of historic Koeleweimolen: Jul & Aug) • Adm
artifacts through life-size dioramas. Two of the city’s four remaining
working flour windmills – Sint-
Sint-Annakerk
4 Janshuismolen and Koeleweimolen
MAP L3 • Open 10am–1pm
– are open to the public.
& 2pm–6pm daily
Kantcentrum
Dominating a tiny square, Sint- 9
Annakerk was elegantly refurbished MAP L3 • Balstraat 16 • 050
after destruction by the iconoclasts. 33 00 72 • Open Apr–Sep: 9.30–5pm
The austere building is a tranquil • Adm • www.kantcentrum.eu
place of worship enlivened by The Lace Centre explains the history
Baroque flourishes. of Bruges’ lace, with live demon-
strations in the afternoon (Mon–Sat).
Gezelle museum
5 Kruispoort
MAP M2 • Rolweg 64
• Open 9:30am–12:30pm & 0
MAP M3
1:30–5pm Tue–Sun • Adm One of only four surviving gates
Rustic home of one of the best- of the city walls.
loved poets in Dutch (and Flemish),
the priest Guido Gezelle (1830–99). Kruispoort








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96 ❯❯ Brussels, Bruges, Antwerp & Ghent Area by Area

Shopping


Steenstraat and
2be
1 6
Zuidzandstraat
MAP L4 • Wollestraat 53
MAP K4 This shop in a converted
The main shopping area links the 15th-century mayor’s house stocks
Markt to ‘t Zand. Clothes, shoes, beers, chocolate and biscuits. The
chocolates – they’re all here. bar upstairs offers good canal views.
Huis Van Loocke
7
MAP L4 • Ezelstraat 17
• Closed Sun & Mon morning
Bruges attracts many artists, and
several excellent shops cater to their
needs. This one has been run by the
same family for three generations.
Pollentier-Maréchal
8
MAP K5 • Sint-Salvatorskerkhof
8 • Closed Sun & Mon
This fine shop sells old prints,
many of them of Bruges.
Shoppers on Steenstraat 9
Supermarkets
Zilverpand
2 The major supermarkets (such as
MAP M3 • Langestraat 55
MAP K4
This warren of arcades between Louis Delhaize) are in the suburbs,
Zuidzandstraat and Noordzandstraat but a few small ones, such as
consists mainly of clothes boutiques. Smatch, lie within the city.
Sukerbuyc
Markets
3 0
MAP K5 • Katelijnestraat 5
MAP J4, K4, L4
There are chocolate shops at every General markets are in the Markt
turn in Bruges, but “Sugarbelly” is (Wednesday mornings) and on
family-run and the cocoa treats are ‘t Zand (Saturday mornings). The
handmade on site. Christmas market takes place in the
Markt and Simon Stevinplein. Flea
The Bottle Shop
4 markets are held weekend after-
noons on Dijver and at the Vismarkt.
MAP K4 • Wollestraat 13
Bruges’ own brewery De Halve Maan
(see p 94) produces two beers,
Brugse Zot and Straffe Hendrik.
You can find them here, along with
the full Belgian range.
‘t Apostolientje
5
MAP L3 • Balstraat 11
There are still some lacemakers in
Bruges, though not the 10,000 there
were in 1840. A number of lace
shops line Breidelstraat between the
Markt and the Burg, but this one is
the most authentic.
Knick-knacks for sale at a market


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Bruges ❮❮ 97

Cafés, Tearooms and Bars

















Funky interior of Duvelorium, run by Belgian brewery Duvel
De Garre
Duvelorium
1 6
MAP K4 • Markt 1
MAP K4 • De Garre 1
(off Breidelstraat) • 050 27 03 11 • Open 11am–6pm
A well-known old staminee (pub), Part of the Historium (see p 94),
hidden down an alleyway. Famous showcasing Belgian beers, with a
for its strong 11% beer. balcony terrace on the Markt.
Café Vlissinghe
Joey’s Café
2 7
MAP L3 • Blekerstraat 2
MAP K4 • Zilversteeg 4 (off
• Closed Mon & Tue Zuidzandstraat) 16a • 050 34 12 64
This is said to be the oldest Bruges • Closed Sun
tavern, founded in 1515. Van Dyck A fun café-bar with low-lit tables,
apparently met local painters here. comfy chairs and friendly staff.
There’s a boules court outside and Hosts occasional free concerts.
light lunches are served. ‘t Brugs Beertje
De Proeverie
3 8
MAP K4 • Kemelstraat 5
MAP K5 • Katelijnestraat 6
• Closed Wed
• Closed Mon One of the great beer pubs, serving
This delightful little coffee no fewer than 300 types of beer,
shop belongs to the chocolatier including local brews Brugse Zot
opposite: hot chocolate is and Straffe Hendrik.
a speciality. The Vintage
Yesterday’s World
4 9
MAP K5 • Westmeers 13
MAP K5 • Wijngaardstraat 6
• 050 34 30 63 • Closed Wed
Splendidly quirky pub and cafe, close This lively bar decorated with vintage
to the Begijnhof, full of antiques and paraphernalia is located just around
bric-a-brac for sale. the corner from ‘t Zand tourist
information centre.
Wijnbar Est
5 De Republiek
MAP L4 • Braambergstraat 7
MAP K3 • Sint-Jakobstraat 36
• 050 33 38 39 • Closed Tue–Thu 0
A tiny, red-brick house that backs • 050 73 47 64
onto the canal with live jazz every A large, time-worn bar where the
Sunday from 8pm. Serves snacks young staff create a vibrant
and an excellent selection of wines. atmosphere. Good for cocktails too.
See map on p90
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98 ❯❯ Brussels, Bruges, Antwerp & Ghent Area by Area

Restaurants


De Karmeliet
1
MAP L3 • Langestraat 19
• 050 33 82 59 • Closed Sun, Mon,
Tue L Jan & late Jun–mid-Jul • €€€
With three Michelin stars to its
name, this is one of Belgium’s top
rest aurants. Exquisite.
De Stoepa
2
MAP K5 • Oostmeers 124
• 050 33 04 54 • Closed Mon • €
Head to this Mediterranean-style
café to enjoy lunch from a good De Karmeliet offers high-end dining
menu of tapas, salads and soups.
Rock Fort
There’s a leafy summer terrace. 6
MAP L3 • Langestraat 15 • 050
Den Gouden Harynck
3 33 41 13 • Closed Sat & Sun • €€€
Pared-down modern interior in
MAP L5 • Groeninge 25
• 050 33 76 37 • Closed Sun, Mon & an old family house. The two
last two weeks Jul • €€€ young owners bring flair to the
Housed in an attractive 17th-century contemporary cuisine.
house, this is one of Bruges’ finest
Assiette Blanche
restaurants. Book ahead. 7
MAP L4 • Philipstockstraat
Den Gouden Karpel
4 23–5 • 050 34 00 94 • Closed Tue
MAP L4 • Huidenvettersplein 4
& Wed • €€€
• 050 33 34 94 • Closed Mon • €€€ Exciting, inventive two-, three-
A fine fish restaurant beside the or four-course menus, with each
Vismarkt (fish market), with an course designed to match an
excellent fish-shop/traiteur next door. accompanying beer.
Den Amand
Bistro de Schaar
5 8
MAP K4 • Sint-Amandsstraat 4
MAP M4 • Hooistraat 2 • 050
33 59 79 • Closed Wed & Thu • €€ • 050 34 01 22 • Closed Sun & Wed
This snug restaurant is renowned for • €€
its steaks grilled over an open fire A small restaurant serving inventive
and its homemade desserts. dishes of worldwide inspiration.
Marieke van Brugghe
9
MAP K4 • Mariastraat 17 • 050
34 33 66 • Closed Sun eve & Mon • €€
Dine beneath a replica panel from
the Sistine Chapel at this cosy bistro
that serves good beer-soaked stews.
Patrick Devos
0
MAP K4 • Zilverstraat 41
• 050 33 55 66 • Closed Wed D, Sat L,
Sun • €€€
An elegant restaurant cherished for
chef Patrick Devos’ creative touch.
Belle-époque style at Patrick Devos


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