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Filled with beautiful illustrations, useful maps, and colorful images, this guide will help you find your way effortlessly around Stockholm.

Covering the city center out to Blasieholmen, Skeppsholmen, Gamla Stan, and beyond to Djurgården, this travel guide is packed with itinerary suggestions, restaurant recommendations, and handpicked hotels. Marvel at the city's naval history at the Vasamuseet, wander the beautiful grounds of Drottningholm, and discover why Stockholm is often referred to as "the Venice of the North." Complete with a handy pullout map, the DK Eyewitness Travel Guide: Stockholm is the perfect companion for an in-depth exploration of Sweden's modern capital.

With hundreds of full-color photographs, hand-drawn illustrations, and custom maps that illuminate every page, DK Eyewitness Travel Guide: Stockholm truly shows you this city as no one else can.


Editorial Reviews

"Known… for its four-color maps, photos and illustrations, the [DK] Eyewitness Guides are extremely user-friendly for travelers who want their information delivered in a concise, visual way." — Chicago Tribune

"The best option… Color photos, maps, and diagrams bring the place to life." — The Philadelphia Inquirer

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Published by Read My eBook for FREE!, 2020-02-26 05:06:04

(DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - Stockholm

Filled with beautiful illustrations, useful maps, and colorful images, this guide will help you find your way effortlessly around Stockholm.

Covering the city center out to Blasieholmen, Skeppsholmen, Gamla Stan, and beyond to Djurgården, this travel guide is packed with itinerary suggestions, restaurant recommendations, and handpicked hotels. Marvel at the city's naval history at the Vasamuseet, wander the beautiful grounds of Drottningholm, and discover why Stockholm is often referred to as "the Venice of the North." Complete with a handy pullout map, the DK Eyewitness Travel Guide: Stockholm is the perfect companion for an in-depth exploration of Sweden's modern capital.

With hundreds of full-color photographs, hand-drawn illustrations, and custom maps that illuminate every page, DK Eyewitness Travel Guide: Stockholm truly shows you this city as no one else can.


Editorial Reviews

"Known… for its four-color maps, photos and illustrations, the [DK] Eyewitness Guides are extremely user-friendly for travelers who want their information delivered in a concise, visual way." — Chicago Tribune

"The best option… Color photos, maps, and diagrams bring the place to life." — The Philadelphia Inquirer

EYEWITNES S TRAVEL






Stockholm

































































001_EW_Stockholm.indd 3 19/09/17 11:52 am

002-003_EW_Stockholm.indd 2 19/09/17 11:53 am

EYEWITNES S TRAVEL






Stockholm

















Main Contributor Kaj Sandell














































002-003_EW_Stockholm.indd 3 19/09/17 11:53 am

Produced by Streiffert Förlag AB, Stockholm
Chief Editor Bo Streiffert Introducing
Project Editor Guy Engström
Editors Guy Engström, Monica Nilsson Stockholm
Designer Bo Streiffert
Picture Research Guy Engström
Great Days in
Dorling Kindersley Ltd
Managing Editor Anna Streiffert Stockholm 8
Art Director Gillian Allan
Main Contributor Kaj Sandell Putting Stockholm
Contributors on the Map 12
Lisa Carlsson, Jan & Christine Samuelson,
Christina Sollenberg Britton, Stockholm The History of
Visitors Board
Stockholm 16
Maps Stig Söderlind
Photographers
Erik Svensson, Jeppe Wikström Stockholm Through
Illustrations the Year 28
Urban Frank, assisted by Jan Rojmar
English Translation Philip Ray Colourful buildings in the Gamla Stan area Stockholm at a
Reproduced by PDC Tangen, Norway of Stockholm Glance 32
Printed and bound in Malaysia by
Vivar Printing Sdn. Bhd
First published in Great Britain in 2000 by
Dorling Kindersley Ltd
80 Strand, London WC2R 0RL
18 19 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1
Reprinted with revisions 2001, 2004,
2007, 2010, 2012, 2014, 2016, 2018
Copyright 2000, 2018
© Dorling Kindersley Ltd, London
A Penguin Random House company
All rights reserved. No part of this
publication may be reproduced,
stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted
in any form or by any means, electronic,
mechanical, photocopying, recording or
otherwise, without the prior written
permission of the copyright owner.
A CIP Catalogue record is available
from the British Library.
ISBN 978 0 24130 625 3
Floors are referred to throughout in Summertime view of Stockholm
accordance with European usage;
ie the “first floor” is the floor above
ground level. The information in this
DK Eyewitness Travel Guide is checked regularly.
Every effort has been made to ensure that this book is as up to date as possible
at the time of going to press. Some details, however, such as telephone numbers,
opening hours, prices, gallery hanging arrangements and travel information are
liable to change. The publishers cannot accept responsibility for any consequences
arising from the use of this book, nor for any material on third party websites, and
cannot guarantee that any website address in this book will be a suitable source of
travel information. We value the views and suggestions of our readers very highly.
Please write to: Publisher, DK Eyewitness Travel Guides, Dorling Kindersley,
80 Strand, London WC2R 0RL, UK, or email: [email protected].
Title page Colourful houses in Gamla Stan, Stockholm Front cover main image Boat moored alongside Söder Mälarstrand, near
Slussen, Södermalm Back cover image Stortorget square in the heart of Stockholm’s Old Town



004-005_EW_Stockholm.indd 4 06/10/2017 14:12

Contents







Stockholm Survival Guide
Area by Area
Practical Information 190
Gamla Stan 46
Getting to Stockholm 198
City 62
Getting Around
Blasieholmen & Stockholm 200
Skeppsholmen 76
Main organ in Storkyrkan church Stockholm Street
Djurgården 86 Finder 206
Travellers’ Needs
Malmarna & Further General Index 219
Afield 102
Where to Stay 156 Acknowledgments 229
Three Guided Walks 136
Where to Eat and Phrase Book 231
Excursions from Drink 162
Stockholm 142
Entertainment in
Stockholm 174
Outdoor Activities 180

Shopping in
Stockholm 182


Statue of King Gustav Vasa in
Stockholm’s Nordic Museum




















Floorplan of the Vasamuseet, a museum
built around the royal warship Vasa




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006-007_EW_Stockholm.indd 6 18/11/15 2:49 pm

INTRODUCING


STOCKHOLM





Great Days in Stockholm 8–11

Putting Stockholm on the Map 12–15
The History of Stockholm 16–27
Stockholm Through the Year 28–31
Stockholm at a Glance 32–43















































006-007_EW_Stockholm.indd 7 18/11/15 2:49 pm

8  INTRODUCING ST OCKHOLM

GREAT DAYS IN STOCKHOLM

In Stockholm you are never far from water, the most of your visit, here are ideas for
and the city’s 14 islands offer a beguiling mix four themed days out, followed by itineraries
of culture and nature. Although beautiful based on length of stay on pages 10–11.
when seen from the water, this city is also All the sights are accessible using public
a pleasure to explore on foot, particularly transport. Prices include travel, food and
around Gamla Stan’s medieval lanes and the admission charges. Family prices are for
leafy island of Djurgårgen. To help you make two adults and two children.
Palaces and
Waterways
Two Adults allow at least
830 kr
• Kungliga Slottet (the
Royal Palace)
• The city from the water
• Drottningholm Palace

Morning
Start the day with a touch
of royalty at Kungliga Slottet
(see pp50–53), the Royal Palace,
in Gamla Stan. Choose any
combination of tours – the
Royal Apartments, the Tre
Looking over the Nordiska museet towards the city centre Kronor Museet or Gustav III’s
Museum of Antiquities – which
to Kungsträdgården (see p66). will take up most of the
Museums Meander
Around this park are plenty morning. Then, just before
of places for a lunch break. noon, step outside for the
Two Adults allow at least Changing of the Guard,
800 kr Afternoon complete with full horse
• A sunken ship and Refreshed, head for Skepps- parade over Norrbro Bridge.
Swedish history on holmen, passing the stately Afterwards, take a gentle walk
Djurgården Grand Hotel (see p81) and through the cobblestone streets
the Nationalmuseum (see of Gamla Stan to Stortorget
• Lunch near
Kungsträdgården park pp84–5). Once there, you can (see p56) for lunch at any one
choose between the Moderna of the cafés lining the square.
• Skeppsholmen – museet (see pp82–3) and the The charming Chokladkoppen
“museum island” ArkDes (see p80). Finish with is an excellent choice, popular
a late “fika” (coffee and cake with tourists and locals alike.
break) in the museum café, or During the winter holidays,
Morning try the restaurant with its view one of the oldest Julmarknad
Start the day on the island of over the water. (Christmas Markets) is held here.
Djurgården at the Vasa museet
(see pp94–6). The impressive
17th-century war ship Vasa is
worth a visit of at least 90
minutes, and try not to miss
the informative video. Next
door, the Nordiska museet
(see pp92–3) gives a glimpse
into Swedish life over the
centuries. Allow 2 hours. Leaving
the island over Djurgårdsbron
(see p90), turn left, and a
15-minute waterside walk
down Strandvägen brings you Drottningholm Palace by boat
View of Stockholm from the Fersen Terrace with the Palace Makalos, by Elias Martin



008-009_EW_Stockholm.indd 8 19/09/17 12:00 pm

GREA T D A Y S IN ST OCKHOLM  9


Afternoon variety of boutiques and cafés
After lunch, enjoy Stockholm are located here, with Folkunga-
from the water. An hour canal gatan itself leading towards
cruise to Drottningholm Palace Medborgarplatsen (see p133).
(see pp146–9), the residence Traditional Swedish lunch can
of the Swedish royal family, be had at an outdoor restaurant
provides a waterfront tour of on the square.
the city on the way to the
palace just outside of town. Afternoon
Be sure to visit the Chinese From Medborgarplatsen it is
Pavilion and the beautiful not far to Katarina Kyrka (see
summer gardens in the palace p130) and the characteristic
grounds. “Under the Bridges of 18th-century cottages of
Stockholm” is another popular old Södermalm. For a more
canal tour, which takes two contemporary view of Söder, the
hours and passes all of the stretch of Götgatan between
city’s major landmarks. Coffee Medborgarplatsen and Slussen Having fun at Skansen, an open-air
and cakes are available on has an eclectic mix of shops, museum on the island of Djurgården
board. For both tours, it is many selling Swedish design. The
worth booking in advance area east of here is Mosebacke located on the island of
during peak times (see p204). (see p130). Here you will find the Djurgården. Here you can
Södra Teatern (see p176) and a visit period houses preserved
public terrace, offering amazing and transported from all over
views of the city. A more Sweden, watch traditional glass
glamorous viewing point is the blowing, and walk through
restaurant at the top of Katarina- a typical Swedish town,
hissen (see p129), accessible complete with market and
from Slussen (see p128). post office. After such a busy
morning, take a well-deserved
break in one of the many cafés
A Full Family Day
in the grounds of the park.
Family of 4 allow at least Afternoon
1,800 kr After lunch, make your way
• A trip to the Skansen zoo to Gröna Lund (see p97), an
and open-air park amusement park where you
The busy Stortorget square in the heart of • Amusements at can ride one of the roller
Gamla Stan Gröna Lund coasters, float through the
Tunnel of Love or relax on
A Walk from Nature • The world of Pippi the Ferris wheel. Alternatively,
to Culture Longstocking and a enter the world of celebrated
theatre visit at Junibacken children’s author Astrid Lingren
Two Adults allow at least at Junibacken (see p90) to
300 kr explore her well-loved
• The mountain park of Morning collection of books; little ones
Vita Bergen Start the day at the world’s can play in Pippi Longstocking’s
• Shopping and eating in oldest open-air museum and house, Villekulla Cottage. It also
trendy SoFo zoo of Scandinavian wildlife, has one of Sweden’s leading
Skansen (see pp100–101), children’s theatres.
• Old Södermalm and
Mosebacke

Morning
Begin on the island of Söder-
malm at Vita Bergen (see p132),
a beautiful mountain park. Here
you will find allotment-gardens,
worker’s houses from the early
18th century and the
monumental Sofia Kyrka (see
p132). Then head downhill and
into trendy “SoFo” (the area
south of Folkungagatan). A People enjoying picnics at Nytorget in “rustic chic” SoFo




008-009_EW_Stockholm.indd 9 19/09/17 12:00 pm

10  INTRODUCING ST OCKHOLM


3 Days in Stockholm

• Shop for souvenirs
and handicrafts in
Västerlånggatan
• View Moderna museet’s
interesting modern
art collection
• Amble the quaint streets
of Södermalm, with its
old workers’ cottages
Night view of the Royal Palace
At noon, catch the Changing of Day 1
2 Days in Stockholm
the Guard at the Royal Palace Morning Spend a few hours
(pp50–53), before visiting some at the Royal Palace (pp50–53)
• Explore Gamla Stan’s of its 608 grand rooms. Head and Livrustkammaren (p54) in
historic buildings and west to tiny Riddarholmen, Gamla Stan (pp46–61), leaving
medieval cobbled streets home to Riddarholmskyrkan time for the Changing of the
• Pay a visit to Sweden’s (p58), final resting place of the Guard at noon. Head west to
oldest museum, Swedish sovereigns. Riddarholmskyrkan (p58) to
Livrustkammaren view the ornate vaults of former
Afternoon Visit Stadshuset Swedish monarchs. Wander
• Chill out in
(pp116–17), scene of the annual back east to Stortorget (p56),
Kungsträdgården, Nobel Prize festivities, built in admiring the Baroque façades
the former royal
kitchen gardens National Romantic style. Further of Storkyrkan (p55) and the
east, in City (pp62–75), go to the Hanseatic Tyska Kyrkan (pp56–7),
cultural hub of Kulturhuset then browse the handicraft
(p69) and enjoy one of its free shops in Västerlånggatan (p57).
Day 1 art exhibitions. Take a break in
Morning See the sights Kungsträdgården (p66), the Afternoon Head across the
in picturesque Gamla Stan former royal kitchen gardens, waters to City (pp62–75). Pay a
(pp46–61), starting with the 16th- then admire the Renaissance visit to Kulturhuset (p69) for an
century Tyska Kyrkan (pp56–7), façade of Kungliga Operan art exhibition and relax in the
with its spectacular ebony and (pp66–7) and the opulent park of Kungsträdgården (p66),
alabaster pulpit. A short walk up Grand Hôtel (p81) on the then stop for afternoon tea at
Slottsbacken leads to Stortorget waterfront, before settling in the Grand Hôtel (p81), enjoying
(p56), scene of the Stockholm at Berns (p83), a Stockholm views of Gamla Stan, Kungliga
Bloodbath in 1520. Admire the dining and drinking institution. Operan (pp66–7) and Stadshuset
Gothic and Baroque interior of (pp116–17). Later, experience
nearby Storkyrkan (p55), before Day 2 the thrilling rides at Gröna
heading to Livrustkammaren Morning Take a ferry to Lund’s (p97) amusement park.
(p54), Sweden’s oldest museum. Djurgården (pp86–101) and
spend a couple of hours at Day 2
Vasamuseet (pp94–6). Housing Morning Start the day at
the world’s only preserved 17th- Moderna museet (pp82–3). Next,
century warship, this is one of take a stroll around the former
the city’s must-see museums. naval base of Skeppsholmen
Weather permitting, take a (pp78–9) for a look at the
picnic and have lunch alfresco restored buildings, traditional
in one of the peninsula’s parks. wooden boats and full-rigged
steel ship af Chapman (p81),
Afternoon Visit Skansen now a trendy youth hostel.
(pp100–101), the world’s first
open-air museum, home to Afternoon Take a short ferry
150 historic buildings from ride across to Djurgården to
across Sweden. Here you can visit the open-air museum of
watch craftsmen demonstrate Skansen (pp100–101). Return by
traditional skills. Round off the ferry to Nybroplan for a drink at
day with family favourite Gröna Berns (p83) before taking in a
Bernt Notke’s statue of St George and the Lund (p97), Sweden’s oldest show at Dramaten (pp74–5) or
Dragon in Storkyrkan, Gamla Stan amusement park. Kungliga Operan (pp66–7).




010-011_EW_Stockholm.indd 10 19/09/17 12:00 pm
Eyewitness Travel LAYERS PRINTED:
Great days out/City itinerary template “UK” LAYER
(SourceReport v1.2)
Date 7th January 2013
Size 125mm x 217mm

GREA T D A Y S IN ST OCKHOLM  11


Day 3 former glory after a fire. Return
Morning Explore Södermalm to Gamla Stan for an evening
(pp128–35), Stockholm’s charming drink in one of its cosy bars.
and trendy south. Leave from
Slussen (p128) and enjoy great Day 3
views from the top of the 38-m Morning Take a ferry to
(125-ft) high Katarinahissen Djurgården (pp86–101), visiting
(p129). Next, go up to quaint Vasamuseet (pp94–6) and the
Mosebacke (p130); visit the adjacent Nordiska museet
17th-century Katarina Kyrka (pp92–3) for interesting insights
(p130), then continue to Fjäll ga­ into Swedish history and culture.
tan (p131) and the old-fashioned
Söder Cottages (p131). Climb up Afternoon Enjoy the historic
to Vita Bergen (p132) for more Södermalm’s Katarina Kyrka, dating from buildings and laid-back
pleasant views and 18th-century the late 1600s atmosphere at Skansen (pp100–
homesteads. Take a ferry from 101), a charming open-air
Fåfängan (p132) in the east. Day 2 museum. End the day at Gröna
Morning Admire the impressive Lund’s (p97) amusement park.
Afternoon Disembark at Stadshuset (pp116–17) before
Djurgården (pp86–101) and walking across to Riddarholmen, Day 4
spend the rest of the day in Gamla Stan (pp46–61). Visit Full Day Spend a day on the
visiting the unique Vasamuseet Riddarholmskyrkan (p58), with Stockholm Archipelago. There
(pp94–6), followed by Nordiska its ancient royal sarcophagi, and are some 30,000 islands here,
museet (pp92–3). Housed in a stop at Livrustkammaren (p54) but one must-see stop is
Renaissance-style building, this for 500 years of royal history. Sandhamn (p153). Take a tour
museum has a vast collection Catch the Changing of the boat along the Strömma Canal
of objects dating from the 16th Guard at the Royal Palace and soak up the idyllic seaside
century to the present day. (pp50–53) at noon, then atmo sphere in historic
go on to Storkyrkan (p55). Sandhamn, returning to
Wander down shopping street Stockholm in the evening.
5 Days in Stockholm
Västerlånggatan (p57) to view
Baroque and Renaissance-style Day 5
• Explore the museums Tyska Kyrkan (pp56–7), Morning Visit the royal palace
of Djurgården reaching the southern end of of Drottningholm (pp146–9), a
• Spend a day sailing Gamla Stan at Slussen (p128). UNESCO World Heritage Site on
around the Stockholm Lovön, in Lake Mälaren. Admire
Archipelago Afternoon Explore quaint and the beautiful rooms, stroll in the
trendy Södermalm (pp128–35), Baroque Garden and pay a visit
• Visit Drottningholm, a
UNESCO World Heritage starting with Katarinahissen to the Chinese Pavilion.
Site on the island of Lovön (p129) for pleasant views over
the city. Follow the picturesque Afternoon Explore
streets to Fåfängan (p132), Hagaparken (pp124–5), the
returning via mountainous Vita mid-18th-century royal park
Day 1 Bergen (p132) and Fjällgatan north of Stockholm. Take a
Morning Start the day with (p131), with its traditional look at Gustav III’s castle ruin
a visit to the art galleries in buildings, and Stigbergsgatan, and the 18th-century Chinese
Kulturhuset (p69). Pass by home of the Söder Cottages Pagoda, and set time aside for
Kungliga Operan’s (pp66–7) (p131). Be sure to stop at Katarina Fjärilshuset, with their exotic
ornate façade, then relax in Kyrka (p130), now restored to its birds and butterflies.
Kungsträdgården (p66) and
take a look at the Art Deco
Dramaten (pp74–5) theatre.
Afternoon Walk to Blasieholmen,
past the Grand Hôtel (p81),
and stop off to explore the
modern art collection at
Moderna museet (pp82–3),
before visiting Skeppsholmen
(pp78–9), a former naval base
with traditional wooden boats.
Amble back for evening drinks
at Berns (p83), one of the city’s
best nightspots. Beautiful autumn colours, Hagaparken




010-011_EW_Stockholm.indd 11 19/09/17 12:00 pm

12  INTRODUCING ST OCKHOLM

Putting Stockholm on the Map
Pori
Sweden is Europe’s fourth largest country, covering 486,661 sq km
(187,900 sq miles). Its southern-most point is on the same latitude as FINLAND
Edinburgh; its northern extremity is 280 km (174 miles) north of the Gulf of Bothnia
Arctic Circle. Sweden borders Norway in the west and Finland in the east. Rauma
Since 2000 it has been connected to Denmark in the south via a bridge
over the Öresund strait. The capital, Stockholm, is in the south-east. It
has just under one million inhabitants. The city is built on islands, which Turku/åbo
separate the Baltic Sea from Lake Mälaren (see pp42–3). Gävle
Eckerö Åland
NORWAY Torsby Grisslehamn Mariehamn
Oslo SWEDEN
Drammen See inset map below Kapellskär Helsinki,
St Petersburg,
Tallinn
Karlstad
Moss Örebro
Sandefjord
Fredrikstad STOCKHOLM
Hiiumaa Lake
Island
Larvik Strömstad Nynäshamn ESTONIA Peisi
Vänern Mariestad
Mellerud Saaremaa Parnu
Norrköping Island Tartu
Linköping
Skagerrak Vättern
Trollhättan
Valmiera
Kristiansand, Cape Kolka
Newcastle Smiltene
Borås Västervik Visby
Gothenburg Jönköping
Ventspils
Hirtshals Sigulda
Gotland
Riga
Frederikshavn Oskarshamn
LA TVIA Jelgavas
Aalborg Varberg
Växjö
Ljungby Öland
Liepāja
Halmstad Kalmar Joniškis
LITHUANIA
Grenå
Karlskrona Baltic Sea Telšiai Šiauliai Panevėžys
Aarhus Helsingborg Palanga
DENMARK Helsingör Klaipėda
Copenhagen
Simrishamn
Malmö
Odense Ystad
Trelleborg
Bornholm (RUSSIA)
Rönne
Kaliningrad
Rödby Gdynia
Gedser
Kiel Sassnitz Gdansk
Slupsk Elblag
Puttgarden Stralsund
Greifswald Koszalin
Rostock
Travemünde
GERMANY Swinoujscie POLAND Olsztynek
Hamburg Nowogard
For map symbols see back flap
012-013_EW_Stockholm.indd 12 20/09/17 11:16 am
Eyewitness Travel LAYERS PRINTED:
Orientations template “UK” LAYER
(Source v1.3)
Date 6th November 2012
Size 125mm x 217mm

PUT TING ST OCKHOLM ON THE M AP  13


Northern Europe
Pori
FINLAND
Gulf of Bothnia
Rauma
FINLAND
SWEDEN
NORWAY
RUSSIA
Turku/åbo Stockholm ESTONIA
Gävle
LATVIA
Nor th
Eckerö Åland Sea DENMARK LITHUANIA
NORWAY Torsby Grisslehamn Mariehamn RUSS. FED.
IRELAND BELARUS
Oslo SWEDEN UNITED NETHERLANDS POLAND
Drammen See inset map below Kapellskär Helsinki, KINGDOM BELGIUM GERMANY
CZECH
St Petersburg, LUXEMBOURG REPUBLIC
Tallinn SLOVAKIA UKRAINE
AUSTRIA HUNGARY MOLDOVA
FRANCE SWITZ.
Karlstad Atlantic SLOV. CROATIA ROMANIA
Moss Örebro Ocean
HERZ.
Sandefjord ITALY BOSNIA SERBIA
Fredrikstad STOCKHOLM SPAIN
Hiiumaa Lake
Island
Larvik Strömstad Nynäshamn ESTONIA Peisi
Vänern Mariestad
Mellerud Saaremaa Parnu
Norrköping Island Tartu
Linköping
Skagerrak Vättern
Trollhättan
Valmiera
Kristiansand, Cape Kolka
Newcastle Smiltene
Borås Västervik Visby
Gothenburg Jönköping
Ventspils Key
Hirtshals Sigulda
Gotland Motorway
Riga
Frederikshavn Oskarshamn Major road
LA TVIA Jelgavas Railway
Aalborg Varberg National border
Växjö
Ljungby Öland
Liepāja
Halmstad Kalmar Joniškis 0 kilometres 100
LITHUANIA 50
Grenå 0 miles
Karlskrona Baltic Sea Telšiai Šiauliai Panevėžys
Aarhus Helsingborg Palanga
DENMARK Helsingör Klaipėda Uppsala
Sala
Norrtälje
Copenhagen
Simrishamn
Malmö Arlanda
Enköping
Odense Ystad Västerås Sigtuna
Trelleborg
Bornholm (RUSSIA) S. Ljusterö
Rönne Vaxholm
Kaliningrad Strängnäs Värmdö-
landet
Eskilstuna STOCKHOLM
Rödby Gdynia Mariefred Handen
Gedser
Kiel Sassnitz Gdansk Södertäije See next
Slupsk Elblag page
Puttgarden Stralsund Flen
Greifswald Koszalin Nynäshamn Baltic Sea
Rostock Katrineholm 0 kilometres 50
Travemünde Trosa
GERMANY Swinoujscie POLAND Olsztynek 0 miles 30
Hamburg Nowogard Greater Stockholm and Surroundings
012-013_EW_Stockholm.indd 13 20/09/17 11:16 am

14  INTRODUCING ST OCKHOLM
Almunge
Stockholm and Surroundings

Stockholm’s first buildings were erected on a small island Ranas
in the narrow Strömmen channel between the Baltic and
Lake Mälaren. When the town started to expand, buildings Skedviken
sprang up on the “Malms”, the areas on either side of
Strömmen. Today Stockholm stretches over 14 islands, with Husby Rimbo
high-rise suburbs sprawling almost all the way out to the
royal country palaces. The network of underground and
suburban trains, buses and ferry services offers easy
transport to sights beyond the city centre (see pp142–53).

Karsta
Arlanda C
Enköping Arlanda
Enköping
Håbo Sigtuna Sigtuna
Steninge
Rosersberg
Bålsta Karby
Vallen-
Tuna
Lillkyrka
Bro Upplands Väsby N. Ljusterö
Veckholm
Bro Upplands- Österåker
Väsby
Upplands-bro
Täby Kyrkby Åkersberga
S. Ljusterö
Kungsängen Svinninge
Kallhäll Täby Resaro Möja
Sollentuna
Mälar en
Grinda Möja
Järfälla Dande- Vaxholm
Munsö Ryd Bogesunds-
Barkarby landet
Lidingö
Hässelby
Sundyberg
Yetterselö Adelsö See inset map above Vindö
Värmdö
Sundbyberg Ormingelandet
Färingsö Lovön Stockholm C Gustavsberg Värmdö-
Birka Stenhamra landet Djurö Baltic Sea
Drottningholm STOCKHOLM Nacka
Björkö Stavsnäs Sandhamn
Ekerö Hägersten Runmarö
Ekerö Årstaberg Brunn
Sandön
Ingarö
Saltsjöbaden
Mariefred Aska Ekeby
Botkyrka Huddinge
Huddinge Skogås Tyresö
Brevik
Salem Flemingsberg Nämndö
Tumba
Haninge
Tumba
Nykvarn
Nykvarn Södertälje Handen
Södertälje Syd Jordbro Dalarö
Västerhaninge
Järna Gålö
Järna Ornö
Mysingen
For keys to symbols see back flap
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put ting st ockholm on the m ap  15
Almunge

Stockholm
Solna Hersby
Ranas Sundbyberg E4 Norra
Solna Djurgården
Bromma 227
Skedviken Huvudsta 227
Husby Rimbo 275 279 Karlberg Ladugårds-
Riksby gärdet
Stockholm C STOCKHOLM
261
Hornstull
Stockholm 222
Södra
Nacka
E4-E20
Midsommar-
Karsta kransen
Arlanda C Årstaberg
Enköping Arlanda 75 Johanneshov
Enköping
Håbo Sigtuna Sigtuna Segeltorp Långbro Älvsjö 226 Enskede
Steninge Bandhagen
Rosersberg 0 kilometres 5 271
Bålsta Karby 0 miles 3 229 229 Skarpnäcks
Vallen-
Tuna
Lillkyrka
Bro Upplands Väsby N. Ljusterö
Veckholm
Bro Upplands- Österåker
Väsby
Upplands-bro
Täby Kyrkby Åkersberga
S. Ljusterö
Kungsängen Svinninge
Kallhäll Täby Resaro Möja
Sollentuna
Mälar en
Grinda Möja
Järfälla Dande- Vaxholm
Munsö Ryd Bogesunds-
Barkarby landet
Lidingö
Hässelby
Sundyberg
Yetterselö Adelsö See inset map above Vindö
Värmdö
Sundbyberg Ormingelandet
Färingsö Lovön Stockholm C Gustavsberg Värmdö-
Birka Stenhamra landet Djurö Baltic Sea
Drottningholm STOCKHOLM Nacka
Björkö Stavsnäs Sandhamn
Ekerö Hägersten Runmarö
Ekerö Årstaberg Brunn
Sandön
Ingarö
Saltsjöbaden
Mariefred Aska Ekeby
Botkyrka Huddinge
Huddinge Skogås Tyresö
Brevik
Salem Flemingsberg Nämndö
Tumba
Haninge Key
Tumba
Motorway
Nykvarn
Nykvarn Södertälje Handen Major road
Södertälje Syd Jordbro Dalarö Minor road
Railway
Greater Stockholm
Västerhaninge
Järna Gålö 0 kilometres 10
Järna Ornö 0 miles 10
Mysingen
014-015_EW_Stockholm.indd 15 18/11/15 2:50 pm

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INTRODUCING ST OCKHOLM  17

THE HISTORY

OF STOCKHOLM


Legends and theories about Stockholm’s origins have been many and varied,
and sometimes even contradictory. But they have a common factor – control
over the waterways. The generally accepted founder of Stockholm is the
13th-century regent Birger Jarl, who, according to the medieval Erik’s Chronicle,
wanted to build a fortress to protect Lake Mälaren from marauding pirates.

A thousand years ago the waters around biggest place in the kingdom. But it
the island now known as Gamla Stan were was not the capital city, because the
busy with warships, trading vessels and king was always on the move. Birger
pirate ships using the narrow channel Jarl’s son, King Magnus Ladulås, did not
between the Baltic and Lake Mälaren. regard Stockholm as his capital either.
In those days boat was the quickest For a long time the city’s importance
and safest method of travel. lay in its role as a trading centre. It
In the first literary mention of what became an important port for the
was to become Stockholm, the Icelandic German-dominated Hanseatic League,
poet and saga writer Snorri Sturluson which controlled Swedish overseas
(1179–1241) des cribed a barrier of piles trade from the 13th century until the
across a waterway, which he named late 17th century.
Stocksundet, the present Norrström. The frontiers of the Nordic coun tries
The island formed by this piling became remained undefined for some time, but
known as Stockholm. Excavations in the with a background of sim ilar languages
late 1970s revealed the remains of a large and cultures, Sweden, Norway and
number of piles in the water dating from Denmark signed the Kalmar Union in
the 11th century. Snorri also mentioned 1397. Finland at that time was still part
a 12th-century castle tower, which would of Sweden. The era of union became
have predated Birger Jarl’s fortress, the one of conflict and violence. At the
predecessor of the present Royal Palace. battle of Brunkeberg in Stockholm in
Documents show that Stockholm was 1471 the Danish king tried to take control
already a city in 1252, four years after of Sweden, but was defeated by the
Birger Jarl became regent. Many towns regent Sten Sture. A new Danish
in Sweden started to expand in the campaign in 1520 culminated in the
early 13th century. Stockholm was a late notorious Stockholm Bloodbath at
starter but soon caught up. A document Stortorget (see p56), when more than
from 1289 describes Stockholm as the 80 Swedish noblemen were executed.
1364 Albrecht of
c.1250 Birger Jarl Mecklenburg chosen 1520 Swedish
1008 Olof Skötkonung founds Stockholm as Sweden’s King noblemen
converts to Christianity executed in
and is baptized in Birger Jarl, 1350 Code of 1397 Kalmar Stockholm
Västergötland Stockholm’s Magnus Eriksson re- Union links the Bloodbath
founder places provincial laws Nordic countries
1000 1100 1200 1300 1400 1500
1275 Magnus Ladulås chosen 1280 Ordi- 1471 Sten Sture
800–975 Vikings as Sweden’s king at Mora
settle and trade at nances of Alsnö 1349–50 the Elder defeats
Birka (see p150) give nobility Plague the Danish King
1101 Three Kings’ Meeting free dom from ravages Kristian at
fixes Scandinavian frontiers taxation Sweden Brunkeberg
The Parhelion Painting in Storkyrkan (Stockholm’s cathedral), depicting a remarkable light phenomenon seen in 1535



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18  INTRODUCING ST OCKHOLM
















The newly chosen king, Gustav Vasa, making his ceremonial entry into Stockholm, Midsummer Day 1523
The Vasa Era Descendants of Gustav Vasa oversaw the rise
One of those who managed to avoid of Sweden into one of Europe’s great powers.
execution in the Stockholm Bloodbath was During the reign of Gustav’s son Erik XIV,
the young nobleman Gustav Eriksson. At the there were wars against Denmark, Lübeck
end of 1520 Gustav organized an army to and Poland. His brothers dethroned him,
oust the Danish King Kristian from Sweden. and he died in prison, probably of a pea soup
Gustav was successful and on 6 June 1523 – poi soned by his brother Johan III. During
later to become Sweden’s National Day – he the reign of Karl IX, the third son, Sweden
was named king with the title Gustav Vasa. waged war against Denmark and Russia.
When Gustav Vasa took the throne he
discovered a nation in financial Gustav II Adolf and Kristina
crisis. He called on Parliament to When the next king, Gustav II Adolf,
pass a controversial law transferring came to power in 1611, Sweden
the property of the Church to the was involved in wars against
State, which then became the Russia, Poland and Denmark.
country’s most important source of Under his rule Sweden steadily
economic power. Another increased its influence over the
important result of this policy was Baltic region. Stockholm started to
the gradual separation from develop into the country’s political
Catholicism and the adoption of and administrative centre. In 1630
the Luth eran State Church. Portrait of Erik XIV (1561) Gustav II Adolf, to gether with
During his reign Gustav Vasa his influential chancellor Axel
implemented tough economic policies in Oxenstierna, decided to intervene in
order to concentrate central power in the Thirty Years’ War on the side of the
Stockholm. This effective dictatorship also Protestants, using religious motives as a
resulted in the Swedish Parliament’s decision pretext. Sweden had some notable military
in 1544 to make the monarchy hereditary. successes dur ing the war, but paid a heavy

1617 Death penalty introduced for
1523 Gustav Vasa 1542 Nils Dacke 1560 Gustav 1568 Erik XIV imprisoned by 1611 Gustav II conversion to Catholicism
chosen as king in and supporters Vasa dies his brothers at Gripsholms Slott Adolf comes
Strängnäs and stage a peasant to power 1632 Gustav II
marches into revolt in Småland Vasa dynasty’s 1577 Erik XIV dies, Adolf killed at
Stockholm coat of arms probably poisoned battle of Lützen
1525 1550 1575 1600
1527 Reformation: 1561 Eric XIV is crowned 1570 Nordic Seven
Parliament confiscates 1544 Heredi tary king, and his brothers’ Years’ War ends
Church property monarchy powers are curbed 1612 Axel
established for 1587 Johan III’s son Oxenstierna
Gustav Vasa’s male 1569 Johan III Sigismund chosen named State
descen dants crowned in Stockholm as king of Poland Chancellor




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THE HIST OR Y OF ST OCKHOLM  19


price for winning the bloody battle at Lützen
in 1632, as the king was killed in action.
Gustav II Adolf’s only child, Kristina, came
to the throne at the age of six. During her
reign (1633–54), life at the court was
influenced by the world of science and
philosophy. Kristina corresponded with
leading academics and invited the French
philosopher René Descartes, who died in
Stockholm in 1650 only a few months after Karl XII with the widowed queen on his arm leaving the burning
he had arrived. The Tre Kronor castle Tre Kronor fortress
became the permanent royal residence.
Kristina’s reluctance to marry resulted in and divided the land more evenly between
her cousin, Karl Gustav, becoming Crown the crown, nobility and peasants.
Prince. Kristina abdicated and left for Rome, While the body of Karl XI lay in state
where she converted to Catholicism. at Tre Kronor in 1697 a fire broke out,
destroying most of the building. The new
monarch was the teenage Karl XII (1697–
1718). He faced mammoth problems when
Denmark, Poland and Russia formed an
alliance in 1700 with the aim of crushing the
power of Sweden. Karl XII set off to battle.
Denmark and Poland were soon forced
to plead for peace, but Russia resisted.
A bold push towards Moscow was
unsuccessful, and the Swedish army suffered
a devastating defeat at Poltava in 1709.
This marked the beginning of the end
Queen Kristina, fascinated by science and corresponding with
leading scientists for Sweden as a great power.
Karl XII, the most controversial Swedish
The Carolian Era monarch, returned to Sweden in 1715
Karl X Gustav (1654–60) was the first of after an absence of 15 years. His plans to
three Karls to reign. At the height of regain Sweden’s position of dominance
Sweden’s era as a great power, and in one never came to pass, and he was killed in
of the most audacious episodes in the Norway in 1718.
history of war, he conquered Denmark by By now, Sweden was in crisis. Crop
leading his army across the frozen waters of failures and epidemics had annihilated
the Great Belt (see p21). Karl XI (1660–97) one-third of Stockholm’s population,
secured the southern Swedish provinces, and the state’s finances were drained.

1617 Death penalty introduced for
conversion to Catholicism 1654 Kristina abdicates and 1697 Tre Kronor castle destroyed by
Karl X Gustav is crowned king fire; 15-year-old Karl XII crowned
1632 Gustav II 1633 Six-year-old
Adolf killed at Kristina becomes 1655 Kristina converts to Catholicism 1709 Swedish army defeated
battle of Lützen queen; guardians rule and is ceremonially greeted in Rome by Peter the Great at Poltava
1625 1650 1675 1700
1648 Peace of
1618 Thirty 1658 Swedish army
Years’ War starts Westphalia gives crosses the Great
in Germany Sweden new Belt and acquires 1680 Karl XI starts the era of
territories
new territory under Carolian autocracy and limits
Gustav II Adolf Peace of Roskilde powers of the nobility 1718 Karl XII dies



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20  INTRODUCING ST OCKHOLM

Sweden’s Era as a Great Power

For more than a century (1611–1721) Sweden was the
dominant power in northern Europe, and the Baltic was
effectively a Swedish inland sea. The country was at its most
powerful after the Peace of Roskilde in 1658, when Sweden
acquired seven new provinces from Denmark and Norway.
Outside today’s frontiers the Swedish Empire covered the
whole of Finland, large parts of the Baltic, and important Swedish Empire
areas of north ern Germany. Over 111 years as a great power Sweden’s empire after the
Peace of Roskilde, 1658
Sweden spent 72 of them at war, with many treasures
brought back to the new palaces. It was also an era of
cultural development and efficient government.















The Tre Kronor Castle
Built as a defensive tower in the 1180s, the Tre Kronor castle was
the seat of Swedish monarchs from the 1520s and became the
administrative centre of the Swedish Empire. It was named after
the three crowns on the spire, which burned down in 1697.

The columns of troops ride
out over the shifting ice
towards Danish Lolland.


The Thirty Years’ War
A major European war raged between 1618–48, largely on
German soil. Sweden entered the war in 1631 in an alliance
with France. Gustav II Adolf was a fine military leader and had
modernized the Swedish army, which immediately had major
successes at the battles of Breitenfeld (1631) and Lützen (1632),
where the king, however, was killed. Later, the Swedes pressed
into south ern
Germany and also
captured and
plundered Prague
(1648). Some rich
cultural treasures
were brought back to
Sweden from the war.
In 1648 the Peace of
Westphalia gave
Sweden several Stockholm in 1640
important posses­ The city’s transformation from a small
The death of Gustav II Adolf at the sions in northern medieval town into a capital city can
Battle of Lützen in 1632 Germany. be seen in the network of straight
streets, similar to the present layout.




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THE HIST OR Y OF ST OCKHOLM  21


Karl XI’s Triumphs
The roof painting in Karl
XI’s gallery at the Royal
Palace (1693) by the
French artist Jacques
Foucquet shows in
allegoric form the king’s
victories at Halmstad,
Lund and Landskrona.




King Karl X Gustav
Count Carl Gustaf Wrangel himself leads the Swedish Powerful Nobility
(see p58). army of 17,000 men. The nobility were very influential
in the Empire era, and many
successful soldiers were ennobled.
The Banér family coat of arms
from 1651 is adorned by three
helmets and barons’ crowns.















Bondeska Palatset
One of the leading buildings of the era
(1662–73), this palace was designed
by Tessin the Elder and Jean de la
Vallée for the State Treasurer Gustav
Bonde (see p60).

Crossing the Great Belt
When Denmark declared war on Sweden in autumn
1657, the Swedish army was in Poland. Marching west,
Karl X Gustav captured the Danish mainland, but
without the navy, he could not continue to Copenhagen.
However, unusually severe weather froze the sea, making
it possible for the soldiers to cross the ice of the Great Belt,
and the Danes had to surrender.


Karl XII’s
Pocket Watch
The warrior king’s
watch case dates from
1700. It shows the Karl XII’s Last Journey
state coat of arms, as After being hit by a fatal bullet at Fred­
well as those of the rikshald in Norway (1718), the king’s body
49 provinces that was taken first to Swedish territory then
belonged to Sweden on to Uddevalla for embalming. Painting
at that time. by Gustav Cederström (1878).




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22  INTRODUCING ST OCKHOLM


guards, he declared his intention to mount a
bloodless coup d’état. The guards and other
military units in Stock holm swore allegiance
to the king, who tied a white handkerchief
round his arm as a badge and rode out into
the city to be acclaimed by his people.
Absolute power had been restored.
Gustav III was influenced by the Age of
Enlightenment and by French cul ture,
which had a great effect on Swedish
cultural life (see pp24–5). But over the years
opposition grew to the king’s absolute
powers, largely because of his costly war
against Russia. In 1792 he was murdered by
Gustav III (r. 1771–92) with the white armband he wore when a nobleman, Captain Anckarström, during a
mounting his coup d’état in 1772 masked ball at the Opera House (see p25).
Gustav III was succeeded by his son,
The Age of Liberty and the Gustav IV Adolf. During his reign Sweden
Gustavian Era was dragged into the Napoleonic wars.
A new constitution came into force in 1719, After a war against Russia in 1808–9,
transferring power from the monarch to Sweden lost its sovereignty over Finland,
parliament. As a result, Sweden developed which at the time accounted for one-third
a system of parlia mentary democracy similar of Swedish territory. The king abdicated
to that of Britain in the early 18th century. and left Stockholm to flee the country.
The “Age of Liberty” coincided with the
Enlightenment, with dramatic advances in The Era of Karl Johan and
culture, science and indus try. The botanist Bourgeois Liberalism
Carl von Linné became one of the most By the early 19th century the absolute
famous Swedes of his time. Another was the powers of the monarch had been removed
scientist, philoso pher and author Emanuel
Swedenborg. The production of textiles
expanded in Stockholm, and Sweden’s first
hospital was constructed on Kungsholmen.
Changes in the balance of power around
1770 gave the new king, Gustav III, an
opportunity to strike in an attempt to regain
his monarchical powers. On 19 August 1772
Gustav accompanied the guards’ parade to Napoleon’s former marshal, Jean-Baptiste Bernadotte, as King Karl
the Royal Palace, where, in front of his life- XIV Johan surrounded by his family

1809 Sweden loses
1719 New 1738 Parliamentary 1754 The 1790 Swedish defeat over Finland, and Gustav
constitution transfers power is established in Royal family Russia at Battle of Svenskund IV Adolf abdicates
power from the king the Age of Liberty as the moves into
to Parliament “Hat” party wins elections Royal Palace 1780s Immigrants are given 1792 Gustav III
wide religious freedom murdered
1720 1740 1760 1780 1800
1721 Swedish defeat in 1741 Carl von Linné 1772 Gustav III 1786 Swedish
the Great Northern War appointed professor crowned and Academy founded
results in territorial losses at Uppsala mounts coup d’état, 1778 National costume
and the end of the giving the king decreed. Death penalty
country’s golden age Carl von Linné (1707–78) absolute power removed for some crimes





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THE HIST OR Y OF ST OCKHOLM  23


significantly, Denmark had to hand over
Norway to Sweden. The Norwegians
were reluctant to unite with Sweden,
but a union between the two coun tries
was agreed – this lasted from 1814 to
1905. A long era of peace began,
and with it came a dramatic increase in
the country’s population, which grew
Newspaper readers outside the Aftonbladet office in 1841 by 1 million to 3.5 million by 1850.
Many Swedes were driven into poverty,
for all time, and the privileges of the because there was not enough work to go
aristocracy were undermined even more round. Mass emigration followed. From the
in 1809 with a new consti tution that 1850s to the 1930s about 1.5 million people
divided power between the king, the left Sweden. Most of the emigrants travelled
government and parliament. to North America in search of a better life.
With a new class structure and the effect
of the French Revolution, a new middle Folk Movements and Industrialization
class emerged with aspirations of being As Sweden was transformed from an
more influential. One of the best-known agricultural society into an industria lized
newspapers founded around this time was country, the problems posed by the
the liberal mouthpiece, Aftonbladet. population surplus were gradually tackled.
Difficulties in finding a An industrial revolution started
suitable new monarch led around 1850, gathering
eventually to the choice of momentum in the late 19th
one of Napoleon’s marshals, century, and the textile, timber
Jean-Baptiste Bernadotte, who and iron industries provided the
took on the more authentic main sources of employ ment.
Swedish name of Karl Johan. In 1806 the nation’s first steam-
Founder of the pre sent royal driven mill, Eldkvarn, was built
dynasty, Karl XIV Johan on the site of the present-day
continued to speak French Stockholm’s Eldkvarn mill, destroyed City Hall in Stockholm. It
and never fully learned the by fire in 1878 con tinued production until
Swedish lan guage. His French destroyed by fire in 1878.
wife, Queen Desideria, found Stockholm a Folk movements sprang up in the 19th
cultural backwater compared with Paris. century, and these still play an important role
In 1813 a Swedish army with Karl Johan in Swedish life. A temper ance movement
at its head became involved in a cam paign emerged against a background of alcohol
against Napoleon. The Battle of Leipzig abuse – in the 1820s annual consumption
ended in defeat for France, but, more of spirits was 46 litres (80 pints) per person.

1869 Emigration to North America 1876 L M Ericsson 1908 Royal
1810 Parliament chooses increases due to crop failures starts manufacture Dramatic
Jean-Baptiste Bernadotte of telephones Theatre
as Crown Prince 1842 Primary schools established opens
by decree in every parish
August Strindberg
1800 1820 1840 1860 1880 1900
1818 Karl XIV Johan is crowned 1859 Sweden’s first 1879 August Strindberg’s novel
King of Sweden and Norway railway opens The Red Room is published
1814 Sweden gains Norway 1850 Sweden has 3.5 million 1905 Parliament dissolves
in peace treaty with Denmark population, 93,000 living in Stockholm union with Norway





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24  INTRODUCING ST OCKHOLM

The Era of Gustav III

Gustav III (1771–92) is one of the most colourful figures in
Swedish history. The king’s great interest in art, literature and
the theatre made the late 18th century a golden age for
Swedish culture, and several prestigious academies were
founded at this time. After a bloodless revolution in 1772
Gustav III ruled with absolute power and initiated a wide- The Swedish Academy
ranging programme of reform. But his attacks on the The academy was founded by
privileges of the nobility and his adventurous and costly Gustav III in 1786 to preserve the
foreign policy made him powerful enemies. In 1792 he was Swedish language. Members
murdered during a masked ball at Stockholm’s Opera House. received a token depicting the
king’s head at every meeting.

A courtier entertains
by reading aloud.











Gustav III’s Coronation, 1772
The coronation of the all-powerful monarch in
Stockholm’s cathedral was a magnificent ceremony,
portrayed here by C G Pilo (1782). Every detail was
overseen by Gustav himself, who used his flair for
the dramatic in politics as well.

Gustav III studies
architectural designs.




Court Life at Drottningholm
Hilleström’s painting (1779) gives an insight into
court life at Drottningholm, where the king resided
between June and November. In the present-day
Blue Salon, Gustav III and Queen Sofia Magdalena
socialized with their inner circle. Behaviour was
modelled on the French court, and etiquette was
even stricter at Drottningholm than at Versailles.




Life in the Inns
The city abounded
The Battle of Svenskund with inns, fre quently
Gustav III was not known as a successful visited by the 70,000
warrior king, but in 1790 he led the Swedish inhabitants. J T
fleet to its greatest victory ever, when it Sergel’s sketch
defeated Russia in a major mari time battle in shows a convivial
the Gulf of Finland. dinner party.




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THE HIST OR Y OF ST OCKHOLM  25

Murder at the Masked Ball
In 1792 Gustav III fell victim to a conspiracy
at the Opera House. He was surrounded
by masked men and shot by Captain
Anckarström on the crowded stage. He
died of his wounds 14 days later.








Gustav III’s Mask and Cocked Hat
Despite his mask, Gustav III was easy to recognize at the
Opera House since he was wearing the badges of two
orders of chivalry. The drama intrigued the whole of
Europe and inspired Verdi’s opera Un Ballo in Maschera.














Flogging of the King’s Murderer
Among the conspirators, only Anckarström was
condemned to death. Before he was taken to his
execution in Södermalm, he was flogged on three
successive days on the square in front of Riddarhuset.


Queen Sofia
Magdalena does
her needlework.
Bust of Catherine the Great
of Russia, the king’s cousin
Gustavian Style
The mid-18th century saw the emergence of Neo-Classicism,
with the focus on antiquities and Greek and Roman ideals.
Gustav III embraced this trend with
great enthusiasm and supported the
country’s talented artists and authors.
He established his own Museum of
Antiquities (see pp52–3) with marble
sculptures that he brought home from
Italy. In handicrafts, the sweeping lines
of Rococo elegance were replaced by
the stricter forms of what has become Swedish Court Costume
known as Gustavian Style. Rooms at In 1778 Gustav III introduced a
the Royal Palace were renovated with costume based on French lines to
Chair designed in the decoration and furnishings adapted restrain fashion excesses. This is the
Gustavian Style to suit this style. male court costume for daily wear.






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26  INTRODUCING ST OCKHOLM

Universal Suffrage to accept a government that contained
Sweden’s population reached 5 million around repub lican-friendly Social Democrats,
1900 despite mass emigration to America. includ ing the future prime minister, Hjalmar
Many people moved to the towns to work Branting (1860–1925). By then it was
in industry, and by the early 20th century parliament, not the king, that decided what
Stockholm’s popu lation was about 300,000, sort of government Sweden should have.
a fourfold increase since the year 1800.
Increasing social awareness and The Growth of
the rise of the Social Democrat the Welfare State
and Liberal parties in the early In 1936 the Social Democrats and
20th cen tury gave impetus to the Farmers’ Party formed a coalition
de mands for universal suffrage. that developed what was to
Radical authors such as August become known as the welfare
Strindberg became involved. state. The Social Democrat prime
There ensued a political battle, minister, Per Albin Hansson (1885–
which was not resolved until 1921, 1946), defined the welfare state
when universal suffrage was Branting and Gustav V in as a socially conscious society
introduced for both sexes. conversation, 1909 with finan cial security for all.
Another question which was hotly Reforms introduced under this
debated in the 19th century was the role of policy included unemployment benefit,
the king and the extent of his powers. In his paid holidays and childcare. As a result,
“courtyard speech” at the Royal Palace in poverty in Sweden virtually dis appeared
1914 King Gustav V called for military rearma- during the 1930s and 1940s.
ment. This led to a con stitutional crisis and The right of everyone to good hou sing
the resignation of the Liberal government. was also part of welfare state policy. Under
After the 1917 election the king was forced the principle of “work-home-centre”, a new
Stockholm suburb, Vällingby, was planned
and built in the early 1950s. The idea was to
transform the dormitory suburbs into thriving
communities where people would both
live and work. The concept was unsuccessful.
It soon became apparent that the people who
lived there still worked somewhere else, and
vice versa. The great shortage of housing in
the 1960s led to the “million” pro gramme,
which involved the building of a million
homes in an extremely short time. These areas
soon became known as the “new slums”
Calls for democratic reforms in June 1917 led to riots like this
one outside the parliament building in Stockholm despite high standards of construction.
1914 Gustav V gives 1932 Suicide of 1940 Sweden– 1955 1958 Women can be
his “courtyard speech”. industrial magnate German Obligatory ordained as priests
Ivar Kreuger is agreement on natio nal health
followed by transit of German insurance 1967 Right-hand
1921 Universal suffrage military personnel driving introduced
for men and women stockmarket crash
1920 1940 1960
Selma 1930 Rise of 1939 Sweden has 1950 First 1964 Art exhibition 1973 Gustav VI
Lagerlöf, Functionalist style coalition govern- public TV Moderna Museet shows Adolf dies and
winner of the in architecture, ment and broadcast in works by Andy Warhol, is succeeded
Nobel Prize stimulated by the de clares neutrality Sweden Roy Lichtenstein and by grandson,
for Literature Stockholm Exhibition in World War II Claes Oldenburg Carl XVI Gustaf





026-027_EW_Stockholm.indd 26 19/09/17 12:00 pm

THE HIST OR Y OF ST OCKHOLM  27


The War Years Prime minister Olof Palme (1927–
86), probably the best-known
Sweden declared its neutrality during both World War I and II.
Its policy of continuing to trade with nations involved in the Swedish politician abroad, was
conflict during World War I provoked deeply involved in questions of
a number of countries into imposing democracy and disarma ment, as
a trade blockade on Sweden. The
situation became so serious that well as the problems of the Third
hunger riots broke out in some towns. World. He was renowned for
World War II produced an even
more difficult balancing exercise for condemning undemocratic acts
Swedish neutrality, largely because by dic tators. Palme’s assassination
its Nordic neighbours were at war. on the streets of Stockholm in
With a combination of luck and
skill, Sweden remained outside the 1986 sent a shock wave across
Neutrality stamp issued conflict, but the concessions it had the world, but strangely the
in 1942 to make were strongly criticized murder has still not been solved.
both nationally and internationally.
Important changes took
place during the closing decades
The Post-War Era of the 20th century. These included a new
Although the Social Democrats dom inated constitution in 1974, which removed the
government from the 1930s to the 1970s monarch’s politi cal
the socialist and non-social ist power blocs powers. In 1995
in Swedish politics have remained fairly Sweden joined the
evenly matched since World War II. European Union,
The policy of non-alignment has not after a referendum
proved an obstacle to Swedish involve ment approved entry by
on the international scene, including the only the narrowest
United Nations. The country has offered of majorities.
asylum to hundreds of thousands of The start of the
refugees from wars and political oppres sion. new millennium Sveavägen, the site of
marked a change in Palme’s murder, 1986
the role of the church
in Sweden, which severed its connections
with the state after more than 400 years.
The last decade has seen a significant
number of jobs created in high technology
companies, and the almost total absence
of heavy industry has made Stockholm
one of the world’s cleanest cities. In recent
years, the city has been the home of
revolutionary startups including Skype,
The centre of Vällingby, which attracted attention among city
planners worldwide in the 1950s Spotify and Mojang.
1974 The 1980 New constitu- 2000 Öresund bridge 2010 Crown Princess Victoria
monarch tion gives women opens between marries Daniel Westling
loses all the right of succes- Denmark and Sweden 2012 Princess Estelle born
political sion to the throne Crown Princess Victoria to Crown Princess Victoria
powers and Prince Daniel
1980 2000 2020
1986 Prime minister Olof 1995 Sweden joins 2007 Legendary film maker
Palme murdered in Stockholm European Union Ingmar Bergman dies
1974 ABBA pop group wins 2000 Swedish Church 2003 Foreign minister Anna
Eurovision Song Contest
separated from the State Lindh murdered in Stockholm




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28  INTRODUCING ST OCKHOLM

STOCKHOLM THROUGH
THE YEAR

Stockholm’s heart never misses a beat despite feature performers from around the world.
the vagaries of the climate. Although summer Sweden’s national festivals are celebrated in
is a glorious time to visit the capital, the city the traditional way in Stockholm and are
shimmering in ice and snow is also an amaz­ always popular attractions for both locals
ing experience, and numerous popular events and visitors alike. The capital’s proximity
take place throughout the year. Stockholm’s to the surrounding countryside and water
countless sporting fixtures attract top­class provides an extensive range of opportunities
international stars. Its many concerts, both for all kinds of outdoor activities throughout
pop and classical, indoor and outdoor, the year.


Garden Fair (Mar). Everything
Spring for the gardener is on show at
As in all the Nordic countries, Stockholm International Fairs
people long for spring after in Älvsjö.
the dark days of winter, and it
has a big impact on life in the April
capital. Sun-lovers sit on the Stockholm Art Week (late Mar).
steps of Konserthuset (Concert A week of art events, exhibitions
Hall) and Kungliga Dramatiska and fairs. Many of the city’s art
Teatern (Royal Drama tic galleries, museums and exhibition
Theatre); people work on their venues arrange special events
boats; football competes with and programmes.
ice hockey for attention; Swedish Football Cham­
spring flowers come into pionship (last weekend in Apr).
bud in Kungs trädgården; and Series starts at Råsunda and
the traditional semla cream Söder stadiums.
buns go on sale to break the Gröna Lund (end of Apr).
Lenten fast. Djurgården’s amusement Walpurgis Night bonfire at Evert Taubes
park, the oldest in the country, Terrass, Riddarholmen
March opens for its 130-day season.
Stockholm International Exciting rides and attractions Slottet (Royal Palace) with a
Boat Show (early Mar). The include roller coasters and a military parade, and children
spring’s major boat exhibition free-fall tower. There are also present flowers and gifts.
at Stockholm International stages hosting music and
Fairs in Älvsjö. other shows, and there’s a wide May
Outdoors Wilderness Fair (Mar). range of places to eat. Gröna Round Lidingö Race (2nd Sat
Held at Stockholm International Lund’s beautiful gardens include in May). This long-distance
Fairs in Älvsjö, this exhibition 30,000 pansies and 25,000 sailing race attracts hundreds
focuses on camping, tourism summer flowers. of boats of all shapes and sizes.
and outdoor equipment. Stockholm Culture Night Archipelago Fair (late May).
(end of Apr). Stockholm’s main This is the fair for all those
cultural institutions come looking to sell, purchase or
together to organize a series exchange their leisure boats.
of free events throughout Elite Race (last weekend in May).
the city, including concerts, Trotting competition at Solvalla
parties and guided tours. Many with top horses from all over
museums, galleries and libraries the world.
stay open until midnight. Kungsträdgården (late May).
Walpurgis Night at Skansen The programme of summer
(30 Apr). Traditional celebra tions entertainment in the park
to welcome the arrival of spring starts on the main stage.
with massed standard bearers, Gärdet Race (late May or early
folk dancing, torch light proces- Jun). Over 500 vintage cars take
sion, student choirs, bonfire part in this race around the city.
and fireworks. As part of the festivities, there
Enjoying the first sunny weather of the King’s Birthday (30 Apr). are food stands, music shows
spring at Djurgårdsbrunnsviken The king is greeted at Kungliga and a classic boat show.




028-029_EW_Stockholm.indd 28 19/09/17 11:53 am

ST OCKHOLM THROUGH THE Y EAR  29


Average Daily Hours of Sunshine
Sunshine Chart
Hours Stockholm’s climate can vary
10 markedly from hot, sunny
days followed by a cooler
8
rainy spell during the
6 summer to winters with
freezing temperatures and
4 snow. From mid-June to
mid-July it never really gets
2 dark. Winter days are very
short, although there can
0
Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec still be a strong sun at times.
Summer
Stockholm is at its best at this
time of year. Although May can
be warm, summer does not
really start until early June,
when the schools break up.
In late June the sun shines
almost round the clock, and
with it comes a vibrant outdoor
life with picnics and street
festivals. The capital gets a little
emptier at peak holiday-time in
July. When the schools go back Traditional Midsummer celebrations at Skansen, the open-air museum
in late August, Swedes celebrate
the arrival of two annual culinary festival celebrated at Skansen Stockholm Pride (Aug). Week-
delights: crayfish and fermented over three days. It starts at 2pm long gay and lesbian festival
Baltic herring. on Midsummer Eve with the with a parade, events and music.
traditional raising of the Stockholm Music & Arts
June maypole and ring dancing. (early Aug). Festival held in
Summerburst (early Jun). Festival ÅF Offshore Race (end Jun). Skeppsholmen.
of electronic music in Gärdet. A major inter national sailing Midnight Race (mid-Aug).
Stockholm Outdoor (early Jun). event, which starts in Stockholm Night-time running that takes
Scandinavia’s largest festival for and finishes at Sandhamn. place over a distance of 10
outdoor activities. Drottningholms Slotts­ km (6 miles) in Söder. The
Stockholm Early Music Festival teater (Jun–Aug). A season event attracts around
(early Jun). Renowned musicians of concerts, opera and 16,000 people.
from Sweden and Europe dance in the 18th- Stockholm Culture
perform music from the Medieval, century court theatre. Festival (mid-Aug). For
Renaissance and Baroque periods. six days, the streets and
A Taste of Stockholm (early Jun). July squares of the city
Kungsträdgården becomes the Stockholm Street centre become the
world’s largest outdoor restaurant. Festival (early Jul). stage for 600 cultural
Archipelago Boat Day (early Buskers, magicians events.
Jun). Classic steamboats and other performers Philharmonikerna
assemble at Strömkajen near entertain at i det Gröna (2nd Sun
the Grand Hôtel for a round trip Kungsträdgården. in Aug). The Royal
to Vaxholm. Stockholm Philharmonic Orchestra
ASICS Stockholm Marathon BAUHAUS Athletics performs for free to
(first Sat in Jun). One of the (mid-Jun–Jul). Stockholm Pride picnicking music-
world’s 10 biggest marathons A major inter national lovers on the lawn by
with around 13,000 runners. athletics competition at Sjöhistoriska museet.
National Day (6 Jun). Celebra- Stockholm Stadion. Baltic Sea Festival (late Aug).
tions at Skansen take place in Various Swedish orchestras
the presence of the royal family. August perform classical pieces at the
Nationaldagsgaloppen (6 Jun). Crayfish Season (Aug). Berwaldhallen concert hall.
Horse racing at Gärdet. Parties throughout the capital Popaganda (late Aug). Artists
Midsummer Eve (last Sat but feast on crayfish and sing display their works at the public
one in Jun). A major Swedish traditional drinking songs. baths of Eriksdalsbadet.




028-029_EW_Stockholm.indd 29 19/09/17 11:53 am

30  INTRODUCING ST OCKHOLM


Average Monthly Rainfall Rainfall Chart
Some years Stockholm
mm Inches
100 4 can have very rainy
summers, but in others
the weather can be dry
80
3 for several weeks at a
time. Heavy snow fall
60
2 may occur between
40 November and March,
but some winters have
1
20 been virtually free
of snow.
0 0
Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec Snow Rain
in the Hall of State and the
Autumn Royal Chapel at Kungliga Slott.
Early autumn mornings can Stockholm Beer and Whisky
be crisp and clear. Sum mer Festival (last weekend in Sep &
often stages a successful first in Oct). Lively festival with
and lengthy last-ditch stand, lots of beer, whisky and cider.
before the trees explode in a Stockholm Half-Marathon
cascade of colours. (mid-Sep). This easy course
Globen, Tele2 and starts and finishes
other indoor arenas outside the Royal
draw increasingly Palace, taking runners
large attendances, through many inner-
and cultural activities city areas.
in theatres and Chanterelles Traditional Fair at
art galleries get under Skansen (last weekend in Annual Stockholm International Horse
way again, although many Sep). Among the items on sale Show at Globen
outdoor events continue are textiles, woodcrafts and toys.
well into the autumn, Lidingö Race (end of Sep). If Stockholm Open (mid-Oct).
weather permitting. The world’s largest cross- This ATP World Tour tennis
country race with competitors tournament takes place at
September of all ages. Kungliga Lawn Tennishallen.
Now is the time to pick apples, Svensk Travkriterium (end of
pears and plums in the garden. Sep). Harness racing at Solvalla. November
Summer cottages are shut, and As darkness falls over the
boats are laid up for the winter, October city, there is a wide selection
but there is still a lot going on in This is a busy time for theat res, of events to choose from.
the capital. cinemas, restaurants and clubs. Granturismo (early Nov).
Tjejmilen (early Sep). Djurgården There are fewer outdoor events, An exhibition of some of the
is the setting for the world’s with people heading instead world’s finest and fastest cars.
biggest race for female athletes. for the parks and forests for Scandinavian Sail and Motor
Stockholm Oktoberfest (early autumn strolls. Boat Show (mid-Nov). Exhibition
Sep). A popular Bavarian-style Bake & Chocolate Festival at Stockholm Inter national Fairs
beer festival with music. (mid-Oct). The world’s best with everything for large motor
Music at the Palace (Sep). The bakers and chocolatiers gather boats or yachts.
summer concert season starts at Stockholmsmässan. Skating Premiere (mid-Nov).
Skating with music starts on a
rink in Kungsträdgården.
Stockholm International Film
Festival (mid-Nov). Ten-day
event with public screenings
and the presentation of awards.
Stockholm International Horse
Show (late Nov). World Cup
competition in dressage and
jumping plus entertain ment
at Globen.
Christmas displays (late Nov).
Shop windows and streets are
Profusion of autumn colours in Hagaparken seasonally decorated.




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Eyewitness Travel LAYERS PRINTED:
Seasonal template “UK” LAYER
(SourceReport v1.6)
Date 7th January 2013
Size 125mm x 217mm

ST OCKHOLM THROUGH THE Y EAR  31


Average monthly temperature Temperature Chart
Stockholm has a mari time
°C °F climate and is much milder
30 86 than one might expect. The
summers are usually fairly
20 68
cool, but sometimes there
10 50 is hot sunshine for several
weeks running. Winter
0 32 temperatures often fall
below freezing, but it is rarely
-10 14
severely cold. The average
-20 -4 maxi mum and minimum
Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec temperatures are shown.
laureates. In the
Winter evening the royal
Winter can vary from family attends a
temperatures a few banquet at
degrees above freezing with Stadshuset (City Hall).
slush on the streets to sparkling Lucia Celebrations
sunny days with the city under a (13 Dec). Sweden’s
dazzling white blanket of snow, white-clad Lucia, the
ice-covered water and tempe- “Queen of Light”, with
ratures well below zero. her girl attendants
Stockholmers get out their skis, and “star boys”, serves
skates, or toboggans, or go for the Nobel laureates
long walks. There are also several early morning coffee
cultural and sporting events. with saffron buns
and performs
December traditional songs. In
Sometimes the eagerly awaited the evening a Lucia Fireworks display over Stockholm on New Year’s Eve
Christmas season seems a long procession winds
way off, but there is no shortage through the city to celebrations city ring their bells, and there is
of activities in early December, and fire works at Skan sen. Many a specta cular fireworks display.
when some of the year’s most Swedish homes, schools and
important events are staged. workplaces have their own Lucia. January
Christmas Walking Tours (Dec). Christmas Markets (from early Stockholm Fashion Week
A great way to enjoy the city’s Dec). An array of Christmas (end of Jan). As well as fashion,
Christmas decorations and lights. goods on sale at traditional events focus on interior design.
Christmas at Skansen (Dec). markets at Skansen, Rosendals
This open-air museum (see Slott, Kungsträd gården, February
pp100–1) beautifully demonstrates Stortorget in Gamla Stan and Antiques Fair (mid-Feb).
how Christmas was celebrated Drottningholms Slott. Stockholm International Fairs,
in pre-industrial society. Christmas (24–26 Dec). Filled Älvsjö, hosts antiques lovers.
Nobel Day (10 Dec). A ceremony with traditions, Christ mas is Globen Gala (mid-Feb).
at Konserthuset (Concert Hall) the most important Swedish International athletics stars
honours the year’s Nobel Prize holiday. The main event is converge on the Globen arena
Christmas Eve, when an for one of the world’s best
abundant smörgåsbord is indoor competitions.
followed by gifts, often
delivered by a family member Public Holidays
disguised as Father Christmas.
Christmas Sales (first weekday New Year (1 Jan)
after Christmas). Shops start Epiphany (6 Jan)
their sales. Good Friday
New Year (31 Dec–1 Jan). A Easter Monday
major festival, when many Ascension Day (6th Thu
Stockholmers go out on the after Easter)
town. Traditional celebrations Labour Day (1 May)
Whit Monday (May/Jun)
at Skansen include a reading Midsummer Eve (end Jun)
of Tennyson’s poem “Ring Out, Christmas Day (25 Dec)
Lucia, the “Queen of Light”, with her Wild Bells” on the stroke of Boxing Day (26 Dec)
attendants at Skansen midnight. Churches across the



030-031_EW_Stockholm.indd 31 19/09/17 12:00 pm

032-033_EW_Stockholm.indd 32 19/09/17 12:00 pm
Eyewitness Travel LAYERS PRINTED:
Single-page city intros template “UK” LAYER
(Source v1.2)
Date 24th October 2012
Size 125mm x 217mm

INTRODUCING ST OCKHOLM  33

STOCKHOLM AT A GLANCE

With a fascinating Viking past and a Gamla Stan (Old Town) the show stopper, as
cosmopolitan present, Stockholm impresses well as plenty of impressive cultural treasures
with its unique island landscape, striking that can be discovered in its fine museums.
architecture, sophisticated cuisine and To make your visit as rewarding as possible
various cultural attractions. the following ten pages give a quick guide
Stockholm is an unbelievably beauti ful to the best museums and palaces, the most
city, surrounded by clear water and unspoilt distinguished architecture and outstanding
countryside that stretches right into the heart modern design. Activities along the city’s
of the urban area. Stockholm’s 750-year history quaysides and waterways are also described.
has produced many beautiful buildings, with Below is a selection of sights that should
the pastel-coloured cobblestone streets of not be missed.

Stockholm’s Top Ten Sights







Skansen
See pp100–101





Stadshuset Nordiska museet
See pp116–17 See pp92–3


Drottningholm
See pp146–9








Historiska museet
See pp106–7 Moderna museet Stockholm’s Archipelago
See pp82–3 See pp152–3











Royal Palace and its
Nationalmuseum Guard Vasamuseet
See pp84–5 See pp50–53 See pp94–6
The magnificent Western Staircase in the Royal Palace



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34  INTRODUCING ST OCKHOLM

Stockholm’s Best: Museums

Stockholm has more than 100 museums, Hallwylska museet
with remarkable collections covering Thanks to a method-
ical countess and her
every conceivable subject and interest. impeccable taste, this
The “Top Ten” shown here are of particular lavishly decorated
note. Kungliga Slottet (the Royal Palace), palace from the late
for instance, is effectively four museums 19th century has
become a magnificent
in one, while the most spectacular is the museum with a wide-
museum housing the Vasa warship, ranging collection of
salvaged from the depths of Stockholm’s objects displayed in
harbour after 333 years and now an an original setting.
international attraction.

Vasastaden





City






Blasieholmen
Medeltidsmuseet
Parts of the city wall from the 1530s can
be seen in this underground Medieval
museum, which focuses on the capital’s
origins. The wall’s reconstruction shows Skepps holmen
medieval building techniques. Gamla Stan

0 metres 500
0 yards 500

Södermalm









The Royal Palace
In addition to its own
attractions, the Royal
Palace houses four
specialist museums:
Nationalmuseum the Treasury, featuring
The Nationalmuseum of Fine Arts, Sweden’s largest the State Regalia; the
art museum, has fine collections of 17th- and Royal Armoury;
18th-century Swedish paintings and handicrafts, Gustav III’s Museum of
17th-century Dutch and 18th-century French art. Antiquities; and the
Rubens’s Bacchanalia on Andros dates from the 1630s. Tre Kronor Museum.




034-035_EW_Stockholm.indd 34 19/09/17 11:53 am

ST OCKHOLM A T A GLANCE  35


Historiska museet
Behind the sculpted
bronze gateways of the
Swedish History Museum
is a wealth of material,
including a section
on Viking life. The Gold
Room shows priceless
prehistoric finds, such as
the Timboholm Treasure
(400–450 BC).

Moderna museet
The Fantastic Paradise (1966) Vikingaliv
by Niki de Saint Phalle and The only museum in
Jean Tinguely marks the way Sweden dedicated to the
up to the Moderna museet, with Viking age lets visitors
its collection of modern inter­ experi ence 10th­century
national and Swedish art. Viking life. The highlight is
Ragnfrid’s Saga, a thrilling
11­minute ride through a
Viking family’s experiences.
Östermalm






Blasieholmen


Djurgården Nordiska museet
This colossal building
Skepps holmen from 1907 houses
Gamla Stan many different
artifacts illustrating
everyday Swedish life
and customs, dating
from the 1520s.
















Vasamuseet Skansen
A fatal capsizing in 1628 and a The world’s first open­air museum,
successful salvage operation founded in 1891, shows the
333 years later gave Stockholm Sweden of bygone days with farms
its most popular museum. Over and manor houses, urban scenes
98 per cent of the renovated and craftspeople at work. Nordic
warship Vasa is original. fauna and flora are also on display.




034-035_EW_Stockholm.indd 35 19/09/17 11:53 am

36  INTRODUCING ST OCKHOLM

Exploring Stockholm’s Museums

Stockholm’s wide range of museums gives the visitor a Mediterranean and Near Eastern
chance to experience exhibitions covering a multitude of Antiquities, p67), with its
different interests. Many are housed in magnificent historic marvellous 1905 stairwell,
palaces or institutions with notable collections and the focuses on architecture and
sculptures from the countries
resources to bring each subject to life. In addition, there around the Mediterranean.
are numerous specialist museums, including the homes of Östasiatiska museet
highly regarded artists. Various important private collections (Museum of Far Eastern
are open to the public. This guide lists more than 50 of the Antiquities, p80) contains
best museums Stockholm has to offer. large collections of arts and
crafts from China, Japan, Korea
and India.
1820s in Karl Johan (Empire)
style, on Djurgården. Gustav Art Museums
III’s Paviljong (pp124–5) in
Hagaparken has furnishings The wide range of collections at
and decorations that are the Nationalmuseum (National
fine examples of the late Museum of Fine Arts, pp84–5)
18th­century Gustav ian style. cover European and Swedish
Ulriksdals Slott (p127) has some paintings up to the early 20th
interesting interiors, including century, as well as Swedish
a living room for King Gustav VI handicrafts and design.
Adolf and Queen Louise. Moderna museet (pp82–3) on
In a class of its own is Skeppsholmen has an outstand­
Drottningholms Slott (pp146– ing collection of contemporary
9), a UNESCO World Heritage Swedish and international art.
site, which includes a notable ArkDes (p80), highlights
theatre museum. Swedish building techniques
Karl XII’s uniform, 1718, on show over the last 1,000 years and
at Livrustkammaren provides an overview of the
Historical Museums wider inter national picture.
Several of Stockholm’s Three magnificent art
Palace Museums museums focus on various galleries are located in
The period when Sweden was historic aspects. beautiful buildings on
a great power (1611–1721) Historiska museet (Swedish Djurgården. Liljevalchs
resulted in a number of History Museum, pp106–7) has Konsthall (p97) focuses on
beautiful buildings, many of treasures from prehistoric times 20th­century Swedish and
which are now museums. in its magni ficent Gold Room, international art, while
Foremost among these are the as well as a wonderful section Waldemarsudde (p99) and
royal palaces in and around the on the Vikings. Thielska Galleriet (p99) both
city. Kungliga Slottet (Royal Nordiska museet (pp92–3) specialize in Swedish and
Palace, pp50–53) is a museum and the open­air Skansen Nordic art from the late 19th
in itself. It also houses (pp100–101) show Swedish to the early 20th century.
Skattkammaren (the Treasury) customs and traditions along­ The Schefflelerska Palatset
with Sweden’s royal regalia, side traditional wooden homes. (Haunted Palace, p118) shows
crowns and a large silver font for Stockholms Stadsmuseum Stockholm University’s
the baptism of royal children. (City Museum, p129) tells the collection of classic Swedish
Also in the Royal Palace are story of Stock holm and its
Gustav III’s Antikmuseum, citizens. It is also home to a
containing the antique marble refer ence library.
sculptures that Gustav III The city’s earliest history is
brought home from his Italian highlighted at Medeltids­
travels, and Livrustkammaren museum (Medieval Museum, p61).
(Royal Armoury, p54) where Etnografiska museet(National
visitors can see a variety of Museum of Ethnography, p110)
items used at the court through features anthropological artifacts
the centuries. Museum Tre from all around the world.
Kronor reflects the history of The culture and history
the earlier castle. of Stockholm’s Jewish
Other royal museums include population is the theme
Rosendals Slott (p98), a pre­ of Judiska museet (p120). Decorative Viking brooch,
fabricated building from the Medelhavsmuseet (Museum of Historiska museet




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ST OCKHOLM A T A GLANCE  37


paintings, from the 16th to the
19th century, as well as artistic
Swedish glass.
Millesgården (p152) on
Lidingö is where the sculptor
Carl Milles lived and worked,
and where he is now buried.
Some of his best works are on
show in a beautiful outdoor
setting with a panoramic view
of Stockholm.

Marine Museums
A city located on water offers
plenty of interest for anyone
interested in ships and the sea.
One of the city’s biggest Drawing room in the lavishly decorated Hallwylska museet
attractions, Vasamuseet (pp94–
6) shows the magnificent and dramatist and author August to life the classic children’s
almost intact warship Vasa, Strindberg, the Strindbergs­ books by Astrid Lindgren.
which sank in Stockholm museet Blå Tornet (Strindberg’s Leksaksmuseet (Toy
harbour after a maiden voyage Blue Tower Museum, p71) Museum, p133) is an attraction
of only 1,300 m (1,400 yd). In gives an insight into his life. for all ages, though it is children
addition to the painstakingly A statue of Strindberg by Carl who will be utterly mesmerized
restored hull, there are other Eldh stands near Carl Eldhs by its mechanical toys, models,
exhibits that give an insight into Ateljémuseum (Studio dolls and dolls’ houses.
life on a 17th-century warship. Museum, pp122–3), the A traditional wine shop
Close to Vasa are sculptor’s former residence. and distillery can be seen at
Museifartygen (Museum Ships, Spritmuseum (Museum of
p91), including the powerful ice- Spirits, p91). Another human
breaker St Erik (1915), with Museums for weakness, tobacco, is docu-
Special Interests
Europe’s largest marine steam mented at Skansen’s
engine. Nearby, the Vikingaliv Stockholm has many museums Tobaksmuseet (Museum
museum (p97) lets visitors catering for special interests. of Matches and Tobacco).
experience Iron Age Sweden as Kungliga Myntka binettet Postmuseum (Postal Museum,
Vikings moved between farming (Royal Coin Cabinet, p54) p57) contains more than 4
and seafaring. Highlights explains the history of money million stamps from around
include a ride as an imperilled and shows coins and other the world.
Viking family at sea and a life- methods of pay ment dating Spårvägsmuseet (Transport
size Viking created using DNA. back 1,000 years. Museum, p132) has some 40
Sjöhistoriska museet Junibacken (p90) is a original trams and a large
(National Maritime Museum, charming museum, bringing collection of models. In the
pp108–9) houses a fine same area is the Almgrens
collection of model ships Sidenväveri & Museum
and figure heads. (Almgren’s Silk-Weaving
A short boat trip takes Mill & Museum, p129).
visi tors to the Fjäderholmarna The life of the popular
islands, where there are two 18th-century troubadour
boat museums. There is also Carl Michael Bell man (p98) is
the Baltic aquarium, which is portrayed at the Bellmanmuseet
dramatically set into the side (p134) on Långholmen.
of a rock face (p152). Dansmuseet (Dance
Museum, p67) reflects all
aspects of dance in its varied
Museums in international collection.
Private Homes ABBA The Museum
One of the pearls among (Djurgården) is quite popular.
Stockholm’s museums, Swedish Museum of
Hallwylska museet (p75) is Performing Arts (p74) has some
an opulent private residence 6,000 instruments and the
from the late 19th century, country’s biggest musical
complete with original furn- Stage costume from Les Ballets archive, with records covering
ishings. The home of the Suédois (1920s), Dansmuseet 20,000 traditional ballads.




036-037_EW_Stockholm.indd 37 26/10/2017 14:10

38  INTRODUCING ST OCKHOLM

Stockholm’s Best: Architecture

Sweden was spared the ravages of World War II, so
Stockholm has preserved a rich variety of architectural
treasures. Gamla Stan was the city’s first built-up area.
The surrounding dis tricts known as Malmarna (see p103)
remained mainly rural until an intensive period of
building begun in the second half of the 19th century.
From 1930 the city started to expand further and this
period is reflected in a band of Functionalist-style
buildings. Suburbs including Farsta and Vällingby were
built after 1945. In the 1990s, new buildings began Kungliga Dramatiska Teatern
(Fredrik Lilljekvist, 1901–8). The Royal
appearing in the inner city on former industrial sites. Dramatic Theatre is one of Stockholm’s
few monumental Jugendstil buildings.
The façades are of white marble and,
inside, the staircase and foyer are
embellished with lavish gold decorative
work (see pp74–5.)
Vasastaden



The Royal Palace
(Nicodemus Tessin the Younger, 1690–1704;
com pleted under Carl Hårleman). Work on
the Royal Palace, based on plans by Tessin
the Younger, started after the fire in 1697. The City
façade exhibits influences of Roman palaces;
the magnificent interiors are of French and
Swedish design (see pp50–53.)






Kungsholmen Nybroviken
Skepps -
Gamla stan holmen
Wrangelska Palatset
(Originally built 1629; extensively rebuilt under Jean de la Vallée and Strömmen
Nicodemus Tessin the Elder, 1652–70). This is one of several majestic palaces
built on Riddar holmen in the imposing style popular during the 17th century.
Original details include the gate way and the courtyard arcade (see p58.)
The Tessin Trio
Nicodemus Tessin the Younger (1654–1728), who de signed the Royal Palace (see
pp50–53), can be regarded as Sweden’s leading architect because he influenced
not only building design but also city
planning, landscape gardening and
handicrafts. His father, Nicodemus Tessin
the Elder (1615–81), designed several
country mansions, with Drott ningholm
Palace being his master work (see pp146–9).
The third-generation Tessin, Carl Gustaf
(1695–1770), introduced the Rococo style
to Sweden alongside Carl Hårle man. Etching of the Royal Palace, to which 0 metres 500
all three Tessins contributed
0 yards 500




038-039_EW_Stockholm.indd 38 26/10/2017 14:10

ST OCKHOLM A T A GLANCE  39



Stockholm’s Surrounding Areas
Tessinparken
(Arvid Stille; 1930 city plan by
Sture Frölén). Functionalist style
Stadsbiblioteket on a large scale was tested on the
(Erik Gunnar Asplund, 1920–28). The three-storey buildings on pillars at
City Library is Stockholm’s most
admired example of the 1920s Neo- Tessinparken (see p112.)
Classical style. The book hall has a
fascinating cylindrical shape and
many fine interior details (see p119.)
Söder Cottages
Wooden cottages for port workers
were built from the early 18th century.
Quite a few remain in the Söder area,
for example at Åsöberget and on
Fjällgatan (see p131.) 0 kilometres 5
0 miles 3
Drottningholm,
a World Heritage site, Globen Arena was
features ex quisite designed in a spectacular
buildings and parks spheric shape (see p135.)
dating from 1600 to
1880 (see pp146–9.) Skogskyrkogården Cemetery,
a World Heritage site, combines
landscape design and
architecture (see p135.)
Nordiska museet
(Isak Gustaf Clason, 1889–1907). This museum
Östermalm was conceived as a national monument to
Nordic cul ture. The impressive building in a
Scandinavian version of Renaissance style
is only one-fourth of its original planned
size (see pp92–3.)





Nybroviken
Djurgården
Skepps -
holmen


Strömmen







Södermalm



Moderna museet
(Rafael Moneo, 1995–8). The spacious Modern
Museum was designed to be novel yet not to
disturb the historically sensitive surroundings
of the island of Skeppsholmen (see pp82–3.)




038-039_EW_Stockholm.indd 39 19/09/17 11:53 am

40  in T roducin G ST ockholm


Swedish Style

Swedish design first attracted international attention at the
1925 World Exhibition in Paris, when glassware in particular
took the world by storm, and the concept of “Swedish Grace”
was launched. The nation’s design tradition is characterized by
its simplicity and functionality with an emphasis on natural
materials. Swedish designers and architects are renowned for
creating simple, attractive “human” objects for everyday use.
The 1990s marked the beginning of a new golden age in
which contemporary Swedish design once more won Stoneware, Hans Hedberg
worldwide acclaim. Swedish stoneware from the
1940s, 1950s and 1960s attracts
worldwide attention, and
collectors tend to snap up
anything they can find.








Armchair (1969), Bruno Mathsson
Bruno Mathsson, one of Sweden’s most celebrated
20th-century furniture designers, is one of the
creators of what came to be known as the “Swedish
Modern” style. He designed the first version of the
Pernilla armchair in 1942.
Simplicity is
the concept
most closely
associated with
Swedish style.
Pale wood is
characteristic
of its design.

Rag mats are
produced using an
old Swedish
weaving tradition
taken up by Karin
Larsson, whose
skill as a textile
designer is now
widely recognized.
Bureau (1952), Josef Frank
Frank was born in Austria but worked in
Sweden and was another disciple of the
“Swedish Modern” style. He is best known
for his printed textiles for Svenskt Tenn (see
p186), but also designed furniture.
Carpet (1931), Märta Måås-Fjetterström
From 1919 Måås-Fjetterström wove her highly
regarded carpets at her studio in southern
Sweden. Her work was inspired by folklore and
nature, and she created a design concept that
was new but still deeply rooted in tradition.





040-041_EW_Stockholm.indd 40 18/11/15 2:50 pm

st ockholm a t a glance  41


Silver coffee pot (1953),
Sigurd Persson
Persson had an almost
unrivalled ability to handle
metal. He made a big
impact on the history of
design with both his every-
day industrial work and his
exclusive artistic creations.






Flowers and plants along a windowsill and no curtains
typify the Larssons’ ideas on interior decoration.
Chair (1981), Jonas Bohlin
The Concrete chair became the
most remarkable piece of
Swedish furniture design in the
1980s. A graduation project, it
represented a completely new
approach to furniture design.


Bookshelf (1989), John Kandell
Books are placed flat on the Pilaster
bookshelf instead of being stacked
in the usual way. The lines are
simple and typically Scandinavian.
The maker, Källemo, is one of
Sweden’s most unconventional
furniture manufacturers.
Gustavian late 18th-century style elements
have remained a strong feature in Swedish
design through the centuries, and made a
particular comeback in the 1990s.
Carl Larsson’s Sundborn
The home created by the artist Carl Larsson Where to See Swedish Design
(1853–1919) and his wife Karin became an Asplund
inspiration to the world when it featured in his Sibyllegatan 31. Map 3 E3. Contemporary Swedish and
watercolour series A Home. The mixture of old international design. ∑ asplund.org
and new, pure colours, plants and windows
without curtains was an expression of the Design House Stockholm
“Beauty for All” movement. Hamngatan 18–20. Map 3 D4. Exclusive and functional
design with a Scandinavian touch.
∑ designhousestockholm.com
Jacksons
Sibyllegatan 53. Map 3 E3. ∑ jacksons.se
Vase (1998), Orrefors Kosta Boda
Ann Wåhlström Birger Jarlsgatan 15. Map 3 D3. ∑ orrefors.com or
Wåhlström is one of ∑ kostaboda.com
the new young
glass designers at R.O.O.M.
Kosta Boda. Her PUB, Plan 03, Hötorget. Map 2 C4. ∑ room.se
vase, Cyklon, is a Svenskt Tenn
good example of Strandvägen 5. Map 3 E4.
contemporary Josef Frank, etc. ∑ svenskttenn.se
Swedish glass.





040-041_EW_Stockholm.indd 41 18/11/15 2:50 pm

42  INTRODUCING ST OCKHOLM

Stockholm, the City on the Water

Stockholm is sometimes referred to as “The Venice of the
North”, built as it is on 14 islands surrounded by the clear
waters of Lake Mälaren and Saltsjön, an inlet from the
Baltic Sea. For most visitors, seeing “the green city on the
water” is a remarkable experience. Stockholm’s quaysides
and waterways offer a range of activities not normally
associated with a capital city, made possible by the low
levels of pollution. The waterside location is Stockholm’s
most beautiful feature.
Canoe Slalom on Strömmen
Spectacular canoe slalom competi­
Sailing Race on tions are held every year in the
Riddarfjärden rushing water of the Strömmen
The waters of channel below Gustav Adolfs Torg.
Stockholm are
always busy with
sailing boats. A ride
along Riddarfjärden
is particularly
spectacular at night.
City





Kungsholmen Strömmen


Gamla
R iddar fjärden Stan Skepps-
Holmen

Långholmen


Södermalm
















Fishing for a Living
Swimming in the Heart of the City For 400 years fishermen have cast their
During the summer months, swimmers bathe in the nets from boats near Kungliga Slottet
clean, warm water (about 20°C/68°F) in the city centre. (Royal Palace). Today only four boats
Långholmen (see p134) has sandy beaches and smooth remain. Of the 30 species found here,
rocks offering an ideal setting for a refreshing dip. smelt is the most commonly caught fish.
For map symbols see back flap


042-043_EW_Stockholm.indd 42 19/09/17 11:53 am

ST OCKHOLM A T A GLANCE  43









Vintage Mahogany Boat
Lovingly renovated vintage motor boats with
shining mahogany and brass fittings are often
seen on the waterways of Stockholm, as well
as the more exclusive Riva racing boats.
Exploring on Your Own
Kayaks, pedalos, rowing boats, motor boats and 0 metres 500
sometimes sailing dinghies can be hired near the
Djurgården Bridge by visi tors who want to explore 0 yards 500
the waters of Stockholm on their own.
Key
Paved walking path

Östermalm





Djurgårdsbrunnsviken



Djurgården
Skepps-
Holmen



S altsjön









Fishing for Perch
The clean waters of the inner city are
rich in edible fish. Anglers spin for sea
trout, and here, on Djurgårdsbrunn
Canal, bait-fishing for perch is
popular, as is fly-fishing in autumn.

Cruise Ship Manoeuvres in
Stockholm’s Harbour
Cruise ships are an impressive sight,
when seen from the heights of
Södermalm, as they make their way
through the narrow channel to their
centrally located quay.
Aerial view of the city, around the royal palace



042-043_EW_Stockholm.indd 43 19/09/17 11:53 am

044-045_EW_Stockholm.indd 44 18/11/15 2:50 pm
Eyewitness Travel LAYERS PRINTED:
Section openers template “UK” LAYER
(SourceReport v1.1)
Date 15th November 2012
Size 125mm x 217mm

STOCKHOLM


AREA BY AREA





Gamla Stan 46–61

City 62–75
Blasieholmen & Skeppsholmen 76–85
Djurgården 86–101
Malmarna & Further Afield 102–135
Three Guided Walks 136–141
Excursions from Stockholm 142–153











































044-045_EW_Stockholm.indd 45 18/11/15 2:50 pm

Norrström STRÖM- Ström-
PARTERREN
Riks- NORRBRO bron
bron RIKS- Norrström
PLAN
L OGÅRDS-
Helgeands- TRAPPAN
SL OTTSKAJEN
holmen Stallkanalen LEJONBACKEN
Vasa- INRE LOGÅRDEN
bron KANSLIKAJEN MYNT- BORGGÅRDEN
Stallbron
Central- RIDDARHUSKAJEN
bron RÅDHUSGRÄND YTTRE SLOTTSBACKEN
NORRA RIDDAR- RIDDARHUSGRÄND MYNTGATAN TORGET HÖGVAKTSTERRASSEN BORGGÅRDEN TELEGRAFGRÄND
HOLMSHAMNEN
TRYCKERIGATAN Riddarholmskanalen RIDDARHUS- STORKYRKO BRINKEN KÄLLARGR. BOLLHUSGR. BREDGRÄND
TORGET
Riddarholms- TRÄDGÅRDSG.
BIRGER bron ST. GRÅMUNKEGR. PRÄSTGATAN KÖPMAN- NYGRÄND
JARLS KÖPMANSGATAN TORGET BRUNNSGRÄND SKEPPSBROKAJEN
TORG GÅSGRÄND BRÄNDA
TOMTEN
WRANGELSKA BACKEN MUNK- YXSMEDSGR. KÅKBR. GAMLA DRAKENS GRÄND B R O N
SKOTTGRÄND
KINDSTUG.
BRON
KÅKBRINKEN
STAN
RIDDAR- STORA NYGATAN VÄSTERLÅNGGATAN SVARTMANGATAN SJÄLAGÅRDSG. BAGGENSGATAN ÖSTERLÅNGGATAN FERKENS GRÄND
HOLMEN GAFFELGR. K E P P S Strömmen
PRÄSTGATAN
SKOMAKARGATAN
SÖDRA
SCHÖNFELDTS GR. TYSKA BRINKEN BRUNNS- JOHANNESGRÄND S
TYSKA
RIDDARHOLMSHAMNEN
GYMNASIEGR.
PLAN
Riddarfjärden MUNKBROGATAN TYSKA PACKHUSGRÄND
LEJONSTEDTS GRÄND STALL-
LILLA NYGATAN
PLAN
Gamla MÄLARTORGET TULLGRÄND
Stan KORNHAMNS- JÄRN-
TORG TORGET N. BANKOGR.
MUNKBROHAMNEN
MUNKBROLEDEN
Central- S. BANKOGR.
bron KORNHAMN S. DRYCKESGR.
SLUSS- RÄNTMÄSTAR-
Söderström
PLAN TRAPPAN
KARL
JOHANS SKEPPSBRON
TORG Slussen
046-047_EW_Stockholm.indd 46 18/11/15 2:50 pm

st ockholm area b y area  47
GAMLA STAN


relics of stockholm’s early history as a town standing majestically around slottsbacken
in the 13th century can still be found on underline stockholm’s role as a capital city.
stadsholmen, the largest island in Gamla stan this area has a special atmos phere with much
(old town). the whole island is one huge area to offer: from the bustling streets of souvenir
of historical heritage, with the many sights shops, bookstores and antiques shops to
just a few metres apart. elegant palaces, churches and museums. many
the royal Palace is the symbol of sweden’s medieval cellars are now restaurants and cafés,
era as a great power in the 17th and early while the narrow streets recall a bygone era.
18th centuries (see pp20–21), and its bridges lead to riddarholmen, with its
magnificent state rooms, apartments and 17th-century palaces and royal crypt, and to
artifacts are well matched to the roman helgeandsholmen for the newer splendours
baroque-style exterior. the historic buildings of riksdagshuset (the Parliament building).
Sights at a Glance
Palaces and Museums Streets and Squares Restaurants pp166–71
1 Kungliga Slottet (Royal Palace) 6 Stortorget 1 Bistro & Grill Ruby
pp50–53 8 Mårten Trotzigs Gränd 2 Bistro Pastis
2 Livrustkammaren 9 Västerlånggatan 3 Den Gyldene Freden
3 Kungliga Myntkabinettet e Evert Taubes Terrass 4 Djuret
4 Tessinska Palatset Churches 5 Frantzen
0 Postmuseum 6 Magnus Ladulas
w Wrangelska Palatset 5 Storkyrkan 7 Mr French
t Stenbockska Palatset 7 Tyska Kyrkan 8 Pubologi
u Bondeska Palatset q Riddarholms-kyrkan 9 Le Rouge
o Medeltidsmuseum 10 Vapiano Gamla Stan
Historic Buildings Norrström STRÖM-
PARTERREN
r Birger Jarls Torn NORRBRO Ström-
bron
y Riddarhuset Riks-
i Riksdagshuset bron RIKS- Norrström
PLAN
L OGÅRDS-
Helgeands- TRAPPAN
SL OTTSKAJEN
holmen Stallkanalen LEJONBACKEN
Vasa- INRE LOGÅRDEN
bron KANSLIKAJEN MYNT- BORGGÅRDEN
Stallbron
Central- RIDDARHUSKAJEN
bron RÅDHUSGRÄND YTTRE SLOTTSBACKEN
NORRA RIDDAR- RIDDARHUSGRÄND MYNTGATAN TORGET HÖGVAKTSTERRASSEN TELEGRAFGRÄND
BORGGÅRDEN
HOLMSHAMNEN
TRYCKERIGATAN Riddarholmskanalen RIDDARHUS- STORKYRKO BRINKEN KÄLLARGR. BOLLHUSGR. BREDGRÄND
TORGET
Riddarholms- TRÄDGÅRDSG.
BIRGER bron ST. GRÅMUNKEGR. PRÄSTGATAN KÖPMAN- NYGRÄND
JARLS KÖPMANSGATAN TORGET BRUNNSGRÄND SKEPPSBROKAJEN
TORG GÅSGRÄND BRÄNDA
TOMTEN
WRANGELSKA BACKEN MUNK- YXSMEDSGR. KÅKBR. GAMLA DRAKENS GRÄND B R O N
SKOTTGRÄND
KINDSTUG.
BRON
KÅKBRINKEN
STAN
RIDDAR- STORA NYGATAN VÄSTERLÅNGGATAN SVARTMANGATAN SJÄLAGÅRDSG. BAGGENSGATAN ÖSTERLÅNGGATAN FERKENS GRÄND
HOLMEN GAFFELGR. K E P P S Strömmen
PRÄSTGATAN
SKOMAKARGATAN
SÖDRA
SCHÖNFELDTS GR. TYSKA BRINKEN BRUNNS- JOHANNESGRÄND S
TYSKA
RIDDARHOLMSHAMNEN
GYMNASIEGR.
PLAN
Riddarfjärden MUNKBROGATAN TYSKA PACKHUSGRÄND
LEJONSTEDTS GRÄND STALL-
LILLA NYGATAN
PLAN
Gamla MÄLARTORGET TULLGRÄND
Stan KORNHAMNS- JÄRN-
TORG TORGET N. BANKOGR.
MUNKBROHAMNEN
MUNKBROLEDEN
Central- S. BANKOGR.
bron KORNHAMN S. DRYCKESGR.
SLUSS- RÄNTMÄSTAR-
Söderström
PLAN TRAPPAN
KARL
JOHANS SKEPPSBRON
0 metres 250 TORG Slussen
See also Street Finder
pp206–18 0 yards 250
Detail from a striking stained-glass window in Storkyrkan For map symbols see back flap
046-047_EW_Stockholm.indd 47 18/11/15 2:50 pm

48  ST OCK h O l m AREA b Y AREA

Street-by-Street: Slottsbacken

Slottsbacken is much more than just a steep hill
linking Skeppsbron and the highest part of Gamla Stan
(Old Town). It also provides the background for ceremonial
processions and the daily changing of the guard, and is the
route for visiting heads of state and foreign ambassadors,
when they have an audience with the king at the Royal Palace
(Kungliga Slottet). Alongside Slottsbacken the palace displays
its most attractive façade, with the entrance to the Treasury The Olaus Petri statue by
(Skattkammaren), State Room (Rikssalen) and Palace Church Storkyrkan stands in front of
(Slottskyrkan). Nicodemus Tessin the Younger’s ambition to a tablet telling the history
make Stockholm a leading European city in monumental of the cathedral
since 1264.
terms was realized in 1799 with the addition of the Obelisk.
Outer Courtyard













Axel Oxenstiernas Palats (1653) is, for SlOTTSbAcKen
Stockholm, an unusual example of the
style known as Roman Mannerism. For
30 years, Axel Oxenstierna (1583–1654)
was a dominant figure in Swedish
power politics.



The Obelisk by Louis
Jean Desprez was TrÅngSund
erected in 1799 to thank K Ö P m A n g ATA n
the citizens for their
support of Gustav III’s
Russian war in 1788–90. STOr-
TOrgeT
Stock Exchange (see p56)






5. Storkyrkan
An impressive cathedral with a
late Gothic interior, it is full of
treasures from many different eras.
6 Stortorget
This square is the heart of the “city
between the bridges”, with a well Key
dating from 1778. It was the scene of
the Stockholm Bloodbath in 1520. Suggested route




048-049_EW_Stockholm.indd 48 18/11/15 2:50 pm
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Date 23rd October 2012
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