(DK Eyewitness) Top 10 Travel Guide - Corfu & the Ionian Islands

EYEWITNESS TRAVEL


TOP



CORFU



& THE IONIAN ISLANDS





CAROLE FRENCH
















































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Top 10 Corfu The Top 10 of
and the Ionian Everything
Islands Highlights


Welcome to Corfu and the Moments in History .....................38
Ionian Islands .............................5 Myths and Legends .....................40
Exploring Corfu and the Museums and Galleries ..............42
Ionian Islands .............................6 Cathedrals and Monasteries .......44
Corfu and the Ionian Beaches ........................................46
Islands Highlights ....................10
Corfu Old Town .............................12 Natural Wonders .........................48
Palaio Frourio, Trips to the Mainland ..................50
Corfu Town ................................14 Children’s Attractions .................52
Mon Repos Estate, Corfu ............16 Restaurants .................................54
Achílleion Palace, Corfu ..............18 Corfu and the Ionian Islands
For Free ....................................56
Korisíon Lagoon, Corfu ................20
Lefkáda Town ...............................24 Festivals and Events ....................58
Argostóli, Kefalloniá .....................26
Mýrtou Bay Area, Kefalloniá ........28
Caves of Kefalloniá ......................30
Zákynthos Town ...........................32


















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CONTENTS



















Corfu and the Streetsmart
Ionian Islands
Area by Area


Corfu, Paxí and Antipaxí ..............62 Getting To and Around Corfu
Lefkáda .........................................74 and the Ionian Islands ............108
Kefalloniá and Ithaki ....................84 Practical Information .................110
Zákynthos .....................................96 Places To Stay ............................114

General Index .............................118
Acknowledgments .....................124
Phrase Book ...............................126




The information in this DK Eyewitness
Top 10 Travel Guide is checked regularly.
Every effort has been made to ensure that
this book is as up-to-date as possible at
the time of going to press. Some details,
however, such as telephone numbers,
opening hours, prices, gallery hanging
arrangements and travel information, are
liable to change. The publishers cannot
accept responsibility for any consequences
arising from the use of this book, nor for any
material on third party websites, and cannot
guarantee that any website address in this
Within each Top 10 list in this book, no hierarchy book will be a suitable source of travel
of quality or popularity is implied. All 10 are, in information. We value the views and
the editor’s opinion, of roughly equal merit. suggestions of our readers very highly.
Please write to: Publisher, DK Eyewitness
Front cover and spine Corfu Town seen Travel Guides, Dorling Kindersley, 80 Strand,
from the Neu Frourio (New Fortress) London WC2R 0RL, Great Britain, or email
Back cover Picturesque Asos Village, Kefalloniá [email protected]
Title page Mýrtou Bay, Kefalloniá




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Top 10 Corfu and the Ionian Islands ❮❮ 5

Welcome to
Corfu and the


Ionian Islands




With beautiful beaches, magnificent natural wonders and
plentiful sunshine, the Ionian Islands offer a Mediterranean
getaway like no other, whether you’re seeking a beach
holiday, a short break or a hiking trip. With Eyewitness
Top 10 Corfu and the Ionian Islands, they’re yours to explore.
Elegant Corfu Old Town, the spectacular Achílleion Palace and the
wildlife haven of Korisíon Lagoon are just some of the must-see
sights of Corfu. The neighbouring islands of Paxí and Antipaxí, with
sandy beaches, picturesque towns and turquoise waters, are sublime.

Highlights of Lefkáda include scenic villages like Nikiana, tiny offshore
islands and charming Lefkáda Town, with its labyrinth of narrow
streets lined with colourful homes. For the more adventurous, there
are stunning waterfalls at Nydrí and windsurfing courses at Vasilikí.
Neighbouring Kefalloniá is famous for its atmospheric capital,
Argostóli, and its natural wonders: Mýrtou Bay, Drogkaráti Cave and
Melissáni Lake are sights not to be missed. Pretty Ithaki, believed
to be where the legendary King Odysseus lived, lies off its shores.

Completing the archipelago is Zákynthos, an island with a coastline so
spectacular that it has appeared on the cover of countless brochures.
Who could forget the iconic Navagio Beach with its shipwreck, or the
fabulous Blue Caves?
Whether you are visiting the Ionians for a weekend or a week, our
Top 10 guide brings together the best of everything they have to offer.
You’ll find tips throughout, from top museums to the best restaurants,
along with six easy-to-follow itineraries designed to help you visit a
clutch of sights in a short space of time. Add inspiring photography
and detailed maps, and you’ve got the essential pocket-sized travel
companion. Enjoy the book, and enjoy Corfu and the Ionian Islands.

Clockwise from top: Palaio Frourio overlooking Corfu Old Town; statue at the Achílleion Palace,
Corfu; Monastery of St Gerasímos, Kefalloniá; Pórto Katsiki Beach in Lefkáda; icon at the Monastery
of Faneroménis, Lefkáda; Fiskárdo harbour, Kefalloniá; Vathý Bay, Ithaki






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6 ❯❯ Top 10 Corfu and the Ionian Islands

Exploring Corfu and the
Ionian Islands Sidári Kassiópi
Sidári
Kassiópi
Paleokastrítsa
Paleokastrítsa
With some stunning natural wonders, as well as several Corfu fu Corfu Town
Cor
Corfu Town
spectacular palaces and castles and many unspoiled villages, the Pélekas
Pélekas
Ionians are rich in beauty, culture and history. A two-day visit to Achílleion
Achílleion
Palace
Palace
Corfu gives a taste of the archipelagos, while the island of Paxí Korisíon
Korisíon
provides a starting point to explore the other islands on a longer stay. Lagoon
Lagoon
Párga
Párga
Paxí Paxí
Pórto Longós
Pórto Longós
AFTERNOON Gäios
Gäios
Stop at Paleokastrítsa and see the Antipaxí
Antipaxí
Angelókastro on the headland before
stopping at Sidári to take the Wildlife Ionian
Ionian
Walk. End the day with 1960s music S ea ea
S
at Angelos Bar in Kassiópi (see p72). Lefkáda Town
Lefkáda Town
Lefkáda Nikiana
Nikiana
Lefkáda
Seven Days in the Vasilikí Nydrí Nydrí
Ionian Islands Vasilikí Meganísi
Meganísi
Day 1 Fiskárdo
Fiskárdo
Take the fast hydrofoil from Corfu Ithaki
Ithaki
Vathý
Mýrtou Bay
Vathý
Corfu’s Achílleion Palace is one of the Old Town to Gäios, Paxí (see p65). Mýrtou Bay Piso Aetós
Piso Aetós
most popular attractions on the island. An island tour can take you to Pórto Kefalloniá
Longós (see p64), where a fish lunch Kefalloniá Sámi Sámi
might tempt. Back in Gäios, hop Argostóli Póros
Argostóli
Two Days on Corfu aboard a taxi boat to Antipaxí (see Pessáda
Póros
Pessáda
p63) and spend the afternoon
Day 1 swimming in its turquoise waters. 0 km 0 km 30 30 Blue Caves
MORNING Return to Gäios for the night. 0 miles 30 30 Blue Caves Agios Nikólaos
0 miles
Agios Nikólaos
Admire Asiatic Art in the Palace of
St Michael and St George in Corfu Old Day 2 Zákynthos Zákynthos
Zákynthos
Town, and then vist the Palaio Frourio From Gäios, take a ferry to Párga Zákynthos Town Town
(see pp14–15). Stroll around Plateia and follow the coast to the bridge
Spianáda and take a break in a café linking Lefkáda with the mainland.
at the Liston for lunch (see p12–13). See the Sánta Mávra remains that
AFTERNOON dominate Lefkáda Town (see pp24–5)
See the Dimarchio, St Spyrídon’s
tall belfry and the Antivouniotissa
Museum’s Byzantine riches. Explore
the Neo Frourio (see p12–13). Dine at
the elegant Venetian Well (see p73).
Day 2
MORNING
Take the coast road to Mon Repos
(see pp16–17) and on to the stunning
Achílleion Palace (see pp18–19). Then,
drive inland to the tranquil Korisíon
Lagoon (see pp20–21). Make for
Pélekas (see p67) and grab lunch at
Agnes Restaurant (see p54). Look out Antipaxí is a picturesque haven of
for Gardiki Castle (see p66) en route. beautiful beaches and turquoise seas.
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Exploring Corfu and the Ionian Islands ❮❮ 7




Sidári Kassiópi
Sidári
Kassiópi
Paleokastrítsa
Paleokastrítsa
Cor
Corfu fu Corfu Town
Corfu Town
Pélekas
Pélekas
Achílleion
Achílleion
Palace
Palace
Korisíon
Korisíon
Lagoon
Lagoon
Párga
Párga
Paxí Paxí
Pórto Longós
Pórto Longós
Gäios
Gäios
Antipaxí The Blue Caves are an awesome
Antipaxí
natural wonder that can be seen
Ionian by boat in northern Zákynthos.
Ionian
S
S ea ea
Lefkáda Town buildings. From here, take
Lefkáda Town
the coast road to iconic
Nikiana
Lefkáda Nikiana Mýrtou Bay (see pp28–9).
Lefkáda
Nydrí Nydrí End the day in Argostóli
Vasilikí Meganísi (see pp26–7) with a visit
Vasilikí
Meganísi
to its museum and
Fiskárdo dinner at Patsouras
Fiskárdo
Ithaki (see p93).
Ithaki
Mýrtou Bay Vathý
Mýrtou Bay
Vathý
Piso Aetós
Piso Aetós
Kefalloniá Sámi Sámi Day 5
Kefalloniá
Cross the island
Argostóli Póros to Drogkaráti Cave
Argostóli
Póros
Pessáda and Melissáni
Pessáda
Lake in Sámi, two
0 km 0 km 30 30 wonders of nature
Blue Caves
0 miles 30 30 Blue Caves Agios Nikólaos (see pp30–31). Take
0 miles
Agios Nikólaos
a boat trip to Piso
Key Zákynthos Zákynthos Aetós (see p87) on
Zákynthos
Zákynthos
Two-day itinerary Town Town Ithaki, beli eved to be
Seven-day itinerary the site of Odysseus’s
palace. Enjoy fine dining at
and admire the traditional Lefkádite Sirens Restaurant in Vathý (see p95).
outfits in the Pantazis Kontomixis
Folklore Museum (see p24). Day 6
Return to Sámi (see p85) and head for
Day 3 Pessada (see p88). Look out for Póros
Hop on a bus to Nikiana (see p75) to and the Monastery of Sissia en route.
see fishermen bringing their catches Take a ferry to Agios Nikólaos in
ashore and continue on to Nydrí (see Zákynthos. You’ll catch sight of Cape
p76) for its splendid waterfalls. Take Skinári, home of the magnificent
a boat trip to Meganísi (see p77) and Blue Caves (see p97), as you approach.
back, stopping for lunch at Tropicana
(see p81). Make haste from Nydrí to Day 7
Vasilikí (see p76) to see the sunset. Explore Zákynthos Town (see pp32–3),
a place of arcaded streets and fishing
Day 4 boats. Don’t miss its famous Church
Board the early ferry from Vasilikí of Agios Dionýsios (see p33) and the
to Fiskárdo (see p86) in Kefalloniá. pre-earthquake model of the town in
Admire its pastel-coloured Venetian the Byzantine Museum (see pp34–5).
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Top 10 Corfu and

the Ionian Islands


Highlights








Sunset over the Venetian-style
harbourfront in Corfu Old Town















































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Corfu and the Ionian Lefkáda Town 24
Islands Highlights 10
Argostóli, Kefalloniá 26
Corfu Old Town 12
Mýrtou Bay Area, Kefalloniá 28
Palaio Frourio 14
Caves of Kefalloniá 30
Mon Repos Estate, Corfu 16
Zákynthos Town 32
Achílleion Palace, Corfu 18
Korisíon Lagoon, Corfu 20





















































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10 ❯❯ Top 10 Corfu and the Ionian Islands Highlights

Corfu and the Ionian

Islands Highlights Sidári Kassiópi
Sidári
Kassiópi
The widely scattered Ionian Islands, which lie off GouviaGouvia See Corfu TownSee Corfu Town
map, rightmap, right
the western coast of mainland Greece, include
Glyfáda
Corfu (Kerkyra in Greek), Paxí, Antipaxí, Lefkáda, Glyfáda
Kefalloniá, Ithaki and Zákynthos. The most verdant CorfuCorfu MesongíMesongí
of all the Greek islands, they have great beaches and IgoumenitsaIgoumenitsa
stunning caves, and offer a fabulous array of attractions. KorisíonKorisíon
LagoonLagoon
Corfu Old Town PaxíPaxí PárgaPárga
A UNESCO World Heritage GäiosGäios
Site, the oldest part of Corfu Town AntipaxíAntipaxí GREECEGREECE
is a blend of architectural styles. It
has imposing fortresses, a French-
style arcaded terrace, the tranquil
Plateia Spianáda and the elegant IonianIonian
Palace of St Michael and St George. S eaS ea
Lefkáda Town
Lefkáda Town
Palaio Frourio, Mon Repos Estate,
Corfu Town Corfu LefkádaLefkáda NikianaNikiana
The Old Fortress, Sir Frederick Adam, a British NydríNydrí
largely built by the Lord High Commissioner of VasilikíVasilikí
Venetians in the the Ionians, built Mon
14th century, is Corfu Repos, which later
Town's most distinctive became the sum mer FiskárdoFiskárdo FrikesFrikes
landmark. The home of the Greek KefalloniáKefalloniá IthakiIthaki
Byzantine Museum royals. Major Mýrtou Bay Areaea VathýVathý
Mýrtou Bay Ar
within its main gate archaeological
contains some finds lie within its Caves of KefalloniáCaves of Kefalloniá SámiSámi
impressive icons and grounds (see
frescos (see pp14–15). pp16–17). ArgostóliArgostóli Póros Póros
PessádaPessáda
Achílleion Palace, Corfu
Built for Empress Elisabeth of Austria
in the 1890s, this palace later became the
home of Germany’s Kaiser Wilhelm II. Marvel Agios Nikólaos
Agios Nikólaos
at the paintings and personal belongings of ZákynthosZákynthos Katastári
Katastári
the palace’s former owners (see pp18–19). Zákynthos Town Zákynthos Town
0 kilometres0 kilometres 2525
0 miles0 miles 2525 Keri Keri
Korisíon
Lagoon, Corfu
This freshwater lagoon,
to the south of Corfu, is
sep arated from the sea
by sand dunes. A wildlife
haven, it’s a nature lover’s
paradise (see pp20–21).







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Corfu and the Ionian Islands Highlights ❮❮ 11


Around Corfu Town Lefkáda Town
Corfu Palaio
Old Town Frourio Known for its unusual
timber-framed buildings clad with
Sidári
Sidári
Kassiópi
Kassiópi Mon Repos colourful metal sheets, the town
Estate also has charm ing narrow streets,
See Corfu TownSee Corfu Town Chrisida Kanóni
GouviaGouvia map, rightmap, right classic tavernas, quirky museums
Pontikonísi and a busy harbour (see pp24–5).
Glyfáda Kalafatiónes
Glyfáda
CorfuCorfu MesongíMesongí 0 km 3 Achílleion
Palace
IgoumenitsaIgoumenitsa
0 miles 3
KorisíonKorisíon
LagoonLagoon
PárgaPárga
PaxíPaxí
GäiosGäios
GREECEGREECE
AntipaxíAntipaxí
Argostóli, Kefalloniá
Pretty Argostóli boasts
Neo-Classical mansions and fine
IonianIonian squares with art galler ies and
S eaS ea cafés. Rebuilt after the 1953 earth quake, it is
Lefkáda Town
Lefkáda Town now Kefalloniá’s trendy capital (see pp26–7).
LefkádaLefkáda NikianaNikiana Mýrtou Bay
NydríNydrí Area, Kefalloniá
VasilikíVasilikí Described as one of the most
beautiful beaches in the
world, Mýrtou Bay is famed
FiskárdoFiskárdo FrikesFrikes for its turquoise sea, dazzling
KefalloniáKefalloniá IthakiIthaki white sand and lush sur-
Mýrtou Bay Ar
Mýrtou Bay Areaea VathýVathý roundings. Nearby are the
pretty villages of Divarata and
Caves of KefalloniáCaves of Kefalloniá SámiSámi Agia Effimia (see pp28–9).
ArgostóliArgostóli Póros Póros Caves of
PessádaPessáda Kefalloniá
The impressive caves
of Kefalloniá include
Drogkaráti cave, with its
Agios Nikólaos amazing rock formations,
Agios Nikólaos
Katastári
ZákynthosZákynthos Katastári and the subterranean
Zákynthos Town Zákynthos Town Melissáni cave and
lake (see
0 kilometres0 kilometres 2525 pp30–31).
0 miles0 miles 2525 Keri Keri
Zákynthos Town

The capital of Zákynthos, this elegant town is
full of Venetian-style architecture, with Neo-Classical
buildings and large squares. After the devastating
earthquake of 1953,
Zákynthos Town was
rebuilt in its original
style (see pp32–3).

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12 ❯❯ Top 10 Corfu and the Ionian Islands Highlights

Corfu Old Town

With its cobbled plazas and tiny alleyways dating back to Roman
times, Corfu Old Town exudes old-world charm. Palaces, museums,
fortresses, gourmet restaurants, traditional tavernas, cultural
venues and a lively har bour combine to give the town its inimitable
character. It also has an eclectic architectural heritage, including
Venetian fortresses, elegant British mansions and beautiful
arcades reminisent of the finest in Paris.
Antivouniotissa
3
Museum
Housed in the Church
of Panagia (Our Lady)
Antivouniotissa, this
museum has a superb
collection of Byzantine
and post-Byzantine
icons and treasures.
Plateia
Spianáda
Palace of St Michael and St George
1 4
A haven for anyone who
This building (above) was once home to the
Greek royal family. At the forefront of local history for likes to read, run or just
decades, it now houses the Museum of Asiatic Art. take refuge from the heat,
this is the town’s largest
Casa Parlante
2 square. It is divided in two
by Viktoros Dousmani
Set in a Neo-
Classical building, Street to create Ano
Corfu’s patrician Plateia and Kato Plateia.
Venetian past is
Neo Frourio
brought to life in this 5
lively museum (left) The Venetians
as animated figures built this mighty fort in
recreate the everyday the 16th century to
life of a well-to-do strengthen the town’s
Corfiot family in the defences. The Greek
19th century. navy occupied it for
many years and it is
NEED TO KNOW daily; winter: 8:30am–3pm now open to the public.
Palace of St Michael and Tue–Sun; adm: adults €2,
St George: MAP Q5; concessions €1
Plateia Spianáda. Museum Neo Frourio: MAP P1;
of Asiatic Art: 26610 Plateia Solomóu; 26610
30443; open summer: 27370; open summer:
8am–7:30pm Tue–Sun; 8am–7:30pm daily; winter:
winter 8:30am–3pm Tue– 8am–3pm daily; adm €3;
Sun; adm €3 temporarily closed due to
Casa Parlante: MAP P5; a minor fire in July 2017;
Nikiforou Theotoki 16; call before visiting
26610 49190; open May– Church of St Spyrídon:
Oct: 10am–6pm daily MAP P5; Ag Spyridonos;
Antivouniotissa Museum: 26610 33059, open
MAP P4; Prosforou 30; 10am–1pm daily
26610 38313; open
summer: 8am–7:30pm


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Corfu Old Town ❮❮ 13



THE MÁNOS
COLLECTION
The focus of Corfu Old
Town’s Museum of Asiatic
Art, the Mános Collection
comprises 11,000 pieces
of Chinese, Japanese
and Korean furnishings,
ceramics and weapons,
plus some miniature
works of art. Corfiot
Liston
6 diplomat Grigórios
Mános (1850–1928)
An iconic Old Town sight, the Liston (above)
was built in 1807 by Frenchman Mathieu de Lesseps. amassed the fascinating
collection during his
Known for its arcaded terraces and stylish cafés, it is travels and helped
a fine example of Napoleonic-period architec ture. The establish the museum.
terrace was inspired by the Rue de Rivoli in Paris.
Old Port
Dimarchio
Maitland
7 8 0
Monument
The Dimarchio, or
Once an integral
Set in Plateia Spianáda, part of Corfu Town’s Town Hall, is a Venetian-
this 19th-century monu- fortifications, the ancient style building that was
ment (below) is redolent Old Port is one of the once the San Giacomo
of a Roman rotunda. It prettiest places in the theatre, a favourite haunt
was built to commemo- area. Small cruise boats of the island’s nobility.
rate the life of Sir Thomas and ferries anchor here,
Maitland, the first Lord while the larger ones go 5 8 9 3 1 6
High Commissioner of the to the more modern New
Ionians (1815–23) during Port, a little to the east. ARSENIOU
the British administration. ATHINAGORA
Church of
9 SOLOMÓU ELENIS
PLATEIA
St Spyrídon
Named after Corfu’s VELISSARIOU
N. THEOTOKI
patron saint, St Spyrídon,
KATO
whose remains lie here in PLATEIA
a silver coffin, this 16th- DESYLIA GUILDFORD
century church is an Old
Town landmark. It has a
distinct red-topped cam-
panile with bells that ring 0 2 7 4
out at regu lar intervals. Corfu Old Town
View over Corfu Old Town from
the New Fortress











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14 ❯❯ Top 10 Corfu and the Ionian Islands Highlights

Palaio Frourio,
Corfu Town


Once home to almost 2,000 people, the Palaio Frourio (Old
Fortress) stands on a peninsula jutting eastward into the Ionian
sea. Founded by the Byzantines in the 11th century, the fortress
was strengthened in the 14th century by the Venetians. Its defences
withstood Ottoman sieges in 1537, 1571 and 1716. Barracks, a
military hospital and other buildings were added during the 19th-
century British occupation. Known to the ancient Greeks as Koryfo,
the site lent its name to Corfu Town and eventually the whole island.
Main Gate and
Church of
2 3
Contrafossa
Agios Georgios
With its Doric columns The Venetians dug the
and portico, the elegant contrafossa, a defensive
Church of St George moat, to separate the
(left), built by the British promontory on which
in 1840, resembles a the fortress stands
Classical temple. It from the rest of Corfu.
became an Orthodox A footbridge spans the
church after the British contrafossa leading to
left Corfu. the main gate. It is
flanked on either side
Schulenburg Statue
1 by two large bastions.
A marble statue of the fortress’s most famous
Chapel of
defender, Count Schulenburg, by the Venetian 4
sculptor Antonio Corradini, stands close to the Madonna dei
footbridge that leads to the Palaio Frourio. Carmini
Built by the Catholic
NEED TO KNOW • On the Mandraki Carmelite order between
quayside, the elegant 1636 and 1671, this
MAP Q1 • Access from Corfu Sailing Club simple chapel has a roof
Viktoro Dousmani • 26610 Restaurant (Tel: 26610 supported by columns
483100 • www.tap.gr 38763; open 12.30pm– that probably came from
Open Apr–Oct: 11.30pm) serves an earlier Greek temple.
8am–7.30pm daily; Nov– Greek-Mediterranean It is open for temporary
Mar: 8am–4pm daily; cuisine and has an exhibitions of historic
adm €6 extensive local wine list. works of art, maps
• There is a small pebbly and documents.
• The Old Fortress beach just west of
café-bar serves cold Mandraki Harbour where
drinks, coffee and snacks, it is possible to swim
such as giros platters and and cool off after
salads, and has free Wi-Fi. exploring the fortress.











Eyewitness Travel – Top 10 series LAYERS PRINTED:
Three-column, 8.25pt grid “UK” LAYER
(SourceReport v1.5)
014-015_Top_10_Corfu.indd 14 27/11/2017 17:31
Date 12th May 2015
Size 100mm x 191mm

Palaio Frourio, Corfu Town ❮❮ 15

Clock Tower
8 JOHANN MATTHIAS
The elegant
Venetian bell tower (left) VON DER
with its four clock faces SCHULENBURG
and pink-painted walls A Prussian aristocrat and
stands below the Castella soldier, Schulenburg
Terra. Its bells were tolled (1661–1747) was
to warn of approaching recruited by the Venetians
enemies such as Turkish to defend the Palaio
Frourio in the 1714–18
pirates or an Ottoman Ottoman–Venetian War.
fleet, as well as to ring The fortress survived a
out the hour. 7-week siege in 1716,
Byzantine Museum
5 when a Turkish fleet was
finally driven away by a
Built into the main gate, the Byzantine
Museum contains a small but impressive collection storm. When the war
ended, Venice retained
of religious works of art including mosaics, the Ionian Islands, but
sculptures and frescoes. lost its possessions on
the mainland.
Public Library
6 Palaio Frourio floorplan
The imposing
historic British barracks, 3 5 0
built to house soldiers
of a garrison that
numbered up to 1,600
men, now houses a 1
public library which has
a valuable collection of
Venetian manuscripts,
rare books and historic
maps and prints. 4 6 7 8 2 9
Mandraki
Akra Sidero
Castella Terra
7 9 0
Lighthouse
Harbour
It takes 20–30
minutes to climb the Built by the British in The fortified city’s original
stone steps to the top of 1828 in the centre of the harbour, on the north
the inner fort that the citadel, this round stone side of the islet (below),
Venetians called Castella lighthouse with its green is now the base of the
Terra. A polygonal stone roof still guides ships in Corfu Sailing Club
well can be seen close to and out of Corfu’s and is filled with
the top. This is the highest harbour, though it is a elegant sailing
point of the Palaio Frourio, little dilapidated. yachts.
with breathtaking views.















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16 ❯❯ Top 10 Corfu and the Ionian Islands Highlights

Mon Repos Estate, Corfu

With its extensive lush gardens set on the hill of Analipsis at Kanóni,
the Mon Repos Estate is a tranquil haven. Created during British rule
by the second Lord High Commissioner of the Ionians, Sir Frederick
Adam, the estate later became the summer home of the Greek royal
family, and the birthplace of Prince Philip, the Duke of Edinburgh. It is
also famous for being the site of Palaeopolis, the island’s ancient city,
and visitors can see the remains of ancient buildings in the grounds.


























The Gardens
Ruins of the
Mon Repos
1 2 3
Temple of Hera
Palace
Laid over 100 ha
An elegant Neo-Classical (250 acres), the gardens The remains of this Doric
building with attractive (below) bring together tem ple lie close to the
entrance columns and lavish Mediterranean palace. Dating to the 4th
bay windows, the palace shrubs, flowers, lawns, century BC, it is said to
(above) was built in 1824 trees and impressive have been ancient Corfu’s
as the home of the British historical remains – look largest temple. The ruins
Lord High Commissioner out for Doric columns, the suggest it was built using
of the Ionians. The palace remains of a harbour, an advanced architec tural
is open to visitors. agora and Roman baths. methods of the day.
Roman Baths
4
The Roman baths
on the estate include an
under floor hypo caust
for the circula tion of hot
air. The baths date back
to around AD 200 and
the reign of Emperor
Septimus Severus.


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Mon Repos Estate, Corfu ❮❮ 17



SIR FREDERICK
ADAM
Sir Frederick Adam
(1781–1853) became
the second Lord High
Commissioner of the
Ionians in 1824 after a
distin guished career in
the British army. The
Mon Repos Estate was
built as a gift for his
Ruins of
6 wife, Nina, although
the couple lived in the
St Kerkyra
Basilica palace only for a few
years before Sir
Dedicated to St Kerkyra, Frederick was appointed
this basilica (above) was to the governor ship of
an important church in Madras, India, in 1832.
the 5th century AD. Built
to resemble a crucifix
from above, its entrance
porticos and the transept
are still worth seeing.
Alkinoos
7
Harbour
The remains of a harbour,
named after a king from
Homer’s The Odyssey,
were found at the same
time as an ancient dock­
yard. Nearby are remains
of what may have been
the homes of merchants.
Ruins of
Museum of
8 9
Palaeopolis
the Temple
Hellenistic
5 Housed within the palace, of Apollo
Agora
this superb museum has The ruins of what is
The agora was at the ancient archaeo logical considered to have been
heart of the island’s com­ treasures, such as Doric a fabulous temple can
mercial activity in ancient columns, alongside ref­ be found in the palace
times. Here, traders used ined clothing, house hold grounds (above). Built in
to stand on large stone items and furniture from a Doric style, it is believed
slabs offering their wares. the time of British rule. to have been dedicated
to the god Apollo, who
NEED TO KNOW Museum of Palaeopolis: was the son of Zeus.
Hellenistic
MAP Q3 • Kanóni, call 26610 41369 for latest 0
Corfu Town opening times Mosaic
Estate: 26610 20980; open • An information board Collection
sum mer: 8:30am–8pm daily, inside the main entrance The museum has a fine
winter: 8am–5pm daily directs you to the sights. floor­mosaic collection,
Palace: 26610 41369; open • Although water is which was dis covered at
summer: 9am–4pm daily, available, there are no the St Kerkyra Basilica in
winter: 8am–3pm daily; refreshment stops, so take the Mon Repos grounds.
adm €3 some snacks with you. The mosaics depict
several Hellenistic gods.

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18 ❯❯ Top 10 Corfu and the Ionian Islands Highlights

Achílleion Palace, Corfu

This Neo-Classical palace was built in the late 1890s for the Empress
Elisabeth of Austria, known as Princess Sissi. The work of respected
Italian architect Raphael Carita, it was used as a retreat by the
empress, who adored Corfu. Following her assassination by an
anarchist in 1898, the palace remained empty until Germany’s Kaiser
Wilhelm II bought it
in 1907. Today, it is
one of Corfu’s most
popular sights.

The Main Hall 1
The entrance hall
(right) to the palace is
domi nated by a massive
marble stair case and fab­
ulous ceiling decora tions,
the most notable being
the Four Seasons fresco.
Four Seasons
2
Painted by Galoppi,
a 19th­century Italian
artist, the fabulous Four
Seasons fresco is an
impressive sight. The
painting depicts female
figures who represent the
seasons and is said to
have been one of Sissi’s
favourite palace features.
Peristyle of
3
the Muses Hall
This hall, at the back of
the palace, has an under­
stated elegance. Its pillars
and statues surround an
inner court yard and lead
down some steps to the
beautiful gardens (below).
Kaiser’s Bridge
4
This arched bridge
was requested by Kaiser
Wilhelm II to make a
beach across the road
more ac c essible. Parts
of it were destroyed
during World War II
when Corfu was under
German occu pa tion, but
it remains an important
architectural landmark.






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Achílleion Palace, Corfu ❮❮ 19



ACHÍLLES
The empress Elisabeth
dedicated the Achílleion
Palace to the ancient
warrior Achílles, famous
for his role in the Battle
of Troy, where he killed
the Trojan hero Hector.
As the story goes, the
Kaiser’s Room
Palace
5 7 newborn Achílles was
immersed in the River
Collection
Known as Kaiser’s
Room, the office of Kaiser of Paintings Styx by his mother. This
made him invin cible,
Wilhelm II, the very last The palace has a rich apart from the heel
empe r or of Germany, is collection of paintings by where she had held him.
located on the ground artists of the period that Achílles survived many
floor. Displayed in the includes portraits of Sissi battles, but at Troy the
room are the Kaiser’s and Wilhelm II, and warrior Paris fatally shot
personal belongings, Achilles’ Triumph (above) him in his heel.
including docu ments, by Austrian artist Franz
furniture, portraits and Matsch (1861–1942).
Statues of
a collection of medals. 8
Goddesses
Empress 6 in the Gardens
Elisabeth’s Statues of important
Catholic Chapel Greek mytho log ical
This tiny chapel (right), figures also adorn the
featuring an icon of the palace’s gar dens. Among
Virgin Mary, is where them are the goddesses
Princess Sissi is said to Artemis, the deity of
have prayed. It lies just forests and hunting,
off the main entrance who is seen standing
hall of the palace , and upright and defiant,
is decorated with a and the alluring
beautiful ceiling fresco. Aphrodite, goddess
of love and beauty.
NEED TO KNOW Statues of Hera and Zeus
MAP D4 • Gastouri, on 9
Princess Sissi adored Greek mythology and
the outskirts of Corfu commis sioned statues of gods to be placed around
Town • 26610 56245 the palace. These include the statues of Hera and
• www.achillion-corfu.gr
Zeus, which stand at the foot of the majestic mar ble
Open Apr–Oct: 8am– stair case lead ing up to the first floor.
7pm daily; Nov–Mar:
Statue of the Dying Achílles
9am–3:30pm daily 0
Adm €7 One of the most impressive
statues in the gardens is the Dying
• There are wonderful Achílles (right), by the 19th-century
views of southern Corfu German sculptor Ernst Herter.
from the hilltop gardens The large bronze depicts the
above the palace. wounded Achílles trying to
• There are a few remove an arrow from
tavernas in the village his heel and forms
and a kiosk near the the garden’s
entrance to the palace centrepiece.
that sells soft drinks
and snacks.

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20 ❯❯ Top 10 Corfu and the Ionian Islands Highlights

Korisíon Lagoon, Corfu

The Korisíon Lagoon in southern Corfu is a sublimely tranquil spot.
A protected area, it is separated from the Ionian Sea by sand dunes
dotted with juniper bushes. The beaches of Agios Georgios, Issos and
Halikounas are on its shores, while an ancient cedar forest provides a
backdrop. The large brackish lagoon and its surroundings provide
habitats for wildlife, trees and flowers, including orchids and a rare
species of lily. It is an important stop for migrating birds from Africa
to Europe; you may also see sandpipers, ducks, seagulls, swans
and, if you’re lucky, Scops owls or buzzards flying overhead.

















Halikounas
1
Beach
Located on the narrow
strip of shoreline sepa­
rating Korisíon Lagoon
from the sea, isolated
Halikounas Beach
(above) is long, wide and
sandy. It is dot ted with
Agios
Gardiki Castle
juniper bushes that give 3 4
it a wild feel. There are Georgios The remains of the
no tavernas here, only Beach (St Georges) Byzantine fort of Gardiki
enthusiasts enjoying the This long, wide beach Castle (below) overlook
flora and fauna. (above), bordered by the lag oon. It was one of
cyp r ess trees and olive three built in the 13th
Grava Cave
2 groves, lies to the south cent ury to defend Corfu.
The others are at Kassiópi
This large cave
of the lagoon and is a
close to Halikounas pop ular spot for sun­ and Angelókastro, near
Beach was only discov­ bathers. The adjacent Palaio kastrítsa.
ered a few years back. It town of Agios Georgios
contained ancient animal is a small resort with
bones, along with some accommodation
stone tools and primitive and tavernas.
vessel­like items, crafted
by communities that are
believed to have lived
here two million years
ago in Palaeolithic times.

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Korisíon Lagoon, Corfu ❮❮ 21

Issos Beach 5
This beautiful
sandy beach is right on
the shores of the lagoon
(right). It is quiet and
famous for its stunning
sunsets. The beach is a
favou rite with locals and
has good watersports,
especially windsurfing
and kite surfing, which
take advantage of its
strong offshore winds.
Bioporos
Cedars and
7 0
Ecological
Junipers
Farm The Korisíon Lagoon is
This super eco­farm, famous for the forests of
which is open to visitors cedar trees and juniper
and offers farm stays, has bushes found around its
a great restaurant where beaches. The forests have
local dishes are prepared developed over millennia
using organic ingredients and add a different habitat
from the estate, such as for the wildlife and birdlife
vege tables, olives and that thrives in the natural
honey. You can also watch ecosystem of the lagoon.
bread being baked in the
restaurant’s wood oven. NEED TO KNOW
Local Flora
8 MAP D5
There are said to
Bioporos Ecological
be no fewer than twelve Farm: Korisíon Lagoon,
species of orchid and lily 49080, Corfu; 26610
around the lagoon, the 76224; www.bioporos.gr
most notable being the Livadiotis Winery:
rare lily Pancratium Thesi Halikouna, Agios
maritimum. This white Matheos, Kastellana,
flower grows on the sand Messi, 49084, Corfu;
dunes and has a pleasant 26610 28482
Migratory
6 scent, especially on still • The Korisíon Lagoon –
Birds
summer evenings.
While you will see or the “great lake” as
Livadiotis
seagulls, ducks and 9 locals refer to it – is in
swans all year round Winery southwest Corfu. It is
at Korisíon Lagoon, in The lagoon is surrounded best reached from the
spring and autumn you by vineyards and it is west coast town of
might also from here that the Pélekas, or cross-
catch sight of flavoursome Protected country from the east
coast town of Mesongí.
some migratory Geographical Indication
birds on their (PGI) Halicouna wine is • There are few facilities
journey between produced. A dry white other than at the small
Africa and central with fruity aromas, resort of Agios Georgios,
Europe. These it is made from a handful of beach bars,
include swallows, the kakotrygis the Bioporos Ecological
the majestic black grape grown Farm and the Livadiotis
Great Cormorant almost exclu­ Winery, home of the
(right) and the white sively in this Greek wine Halicouna.
Great Egret. part of Corfu.
Following pages Main Hall of the Achílleion Palace, Corfu
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24 ❯❯ Top 10 Corfu and the Ionian Islands Highlights

Lefkáda Town

Lying on a promontory around a natural harbour in Lefkáda’s north,
the island’s capital has a modern appearance as a result of recurrent
earthquake damage and the resulting reconstruction of its buildings.
The town has a sophisticated, relaxed feel, and offers everything
from tiny streets and squares to great water front restaurants and
elegant shopping along Dorpfeld, its pedestrianized street. Life here
revolves around the harbour area and lively marina. The town is
linked to the Greek mainland by two small bridges over a channel.
The Marina 1
Located on the
town’s east side, Lefkáda
marina (right) is one
of the largest in the
Ionians. It has attractive
bars, restaurants and
shops, and offers all the
facilities required for
berthing vessels.














Post-Byzantine
Pantazis
Monastery of
2 4 5
Kontomixis
Faneroménis
Art Gallery
Folklore Museum Housed in a classical Set on a hill overlooking
This small but exquisite building, this art gallery Lefkáda’s har bour, this
museum (above) houses is part of Lefkáda Town’s monastery was founded
a fabulous collec tion of library. It has books, in the 17th century. The
traditional clothes worn some manu scripts and a pre sent building is more
by the Lefkádites over superb collection of post- recent. Its ecclesi astical
the cen turies. It also Byzantine art and icons museum has several
displays textiles, looms dating from the 17th to icons, the oldest of which
and old photo graphs. the 19th centuries. is from the 15th century.
Colourful
3 (8 miles) 6 9 4 SIKELIANOU 2 8 1 km
13 km
Architecture
(0.6 mile)
3 km
After the 1948 earth quake (2 miles) 0 SP. GAZI
destroyed most of Lefkáda GIANNOULATOU PANAGOU
DIMARCHOU
PANAGOULI
Town’s old buildings, they
were rebuilt with timber IOANNOU MELA 7
frames covered with Lefkáda 5 N. ZAMBELIOU GOLE MI 1
colourful metal sheets. Town 3 km
(2 miles) MERARHÍAS
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Lefkáda Town ❮❮ 25



TRADITIONAL DRESS
The country has many
variations of traditional
attire. Lefkádite men
used to wear a bourzana,
comprising short pants
and a white shirt. Women
wore a full dress, called
Mýlos Beach
Phonograph
6 7 a katolo. No longer worn
Museum
every day, these clothes
For a great day trip
head to beautiful Mýlos This museum has an can be seen at festivals.
Lefkáda is also known
beach (above), which is unusual, private collec­ for its rich silk wedding
nestled in a scenic lagoon. tion of antique radios dresses and traditional
It can be accessed by boat and gramophones. There groom’s outfit of felt
or over the head land are musical instru ments trousers, a white shirt
west of Lefkáda Town. and sheet music, as well and geleki or waistcoat.
as some personal items.
Sánta Mávra
8
Fortress Ruins
Dominating the skyline
near the channel are the
ruins of the 14th­century
castle of Sánta Mávra
(below), which was built
to defend the town.






Archaeological
NEED TO KNOW Sánta Mávra Fortress 9
Museum
MAP J1 Ruins: open 9am– Although it looks modern,
Pantazis Kontomixis 3pm daily the town has a long his­
Folklore Museum: T Stratou; Archaeological Museum: tory. Its Archaeological
26450 33443; telephone Ag Sikelianou; 26450 Museum displays artifacts
for timings; adm €2 21635; open summer: from all over the island
Post-Byzantine Art 8am–3pm Tue–Sun; that date as far back as
Gallery: Rontogianni; winter: 8:30am–3pm daily; the early Bronze Age.
26450 22502; open 8am– adm €3, concessions €2
2pm daily (until 7pm Tue); • The linked shopping Agios Ioannis
adm €2 streets, Ioannou Mela and 0
Beach
Monastery of Faneromenís: Goulielmou Dorpfeld, form Lying just outside town,
Frini; 26450 33443; open the city’s pedestrianized
8am–2pm and 4–8pm daily main thoroughfare. A
SIKELIANOU Agios Ioannis is one of
SP. GAZI PANAGOU Mýlos Beach: MAP H1 huge choice of cafés and the finest beaches on the
island. With golden sand,
bars can be found here,
DIMARCHOU
Phonograph Museum:
PANAGOULI
GIANNOULATOU
IOANNOU MELA GOLE MI Kalkani 14; 26450 21635; and on Lefkáda’s main a vivid turquoise sea
and a frequent breeze,
square, Plateia Agiou
open 8:30am–2:30pm
it has become known as
N. ZAMBELIOU
MERARHÍAS daily; adm €2 Spyrodonos. a wind surfing paradise.
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26 ❯❯ Top 10 Corfu and the Ionian Islands Highlights

Argostóli, Kefalloniá

Argostóli is a classic Greek town that hugs the shores of the Koutavos
Lagoon, a protected nature reserve on Kefalloniá’s southwest coast. It
has been the island’s capital since 1757, but the historic appearance
of its buildings is deceptive. Neo-Classical mansions, fine churches,
imposing government buildings and large open squares were created
after the town was completely destroyed in the catastrophic earth-
quake of 1953. Today, life revolves around the bustling Plateia
Vallianos, home to cafés and galleries, and the main shopping and
commercial streets of Lithostróto and the tree-lined Rizospaston.

















View along the waterfront of Argostóli
Argostóli Town Centre
Katovothres
1 4
Plateia Vallianos, a large, paved square full of
Located near the
palm trees and dominated by a statue of town ben­ famed landmarks of Agioi
efactor Panagis Vallianos, lies at the heart of Argostóli. Theodoroi church and
From here it's a short stroll to many key sites. lighthouse, Katovothres is
a geo lo gical marvel. Here,
Koutavos
2 3 disappears under ground
Napier Garden sea water enters caverns,
Lagoon
Named after the
Once a swamp, the British governor of and resurfaces 14 days
Koutavos Lagoon (below) Kefalloniá, General Sir later at Melissáni Lake
was dredged when the Charles James Napier and Karavomylos in the
Drapanos Bridge was (1782–1853), who was Sámi area.
built. Now a protected instrumental in creating
Korgialeneios
nature reserve, it is a the garden in the 19th 5
feeding ground for the century, this tranquil Library
loggerhead turtle. A spot on Koutoupi hill Housed in a classical
pathway around it is is famous for its building designed to look
popular with walk­ extensive collection as it did before the earth­
ers and cyclists. of trees and shrubs. quake, the library holds
around 55,000 books,
manuscripts and icons
saved in 1953. The oldest
are Byzantine. Founded
in 1924, the library is
named after benefactor
Marinos Korgialenios.
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Argostóli, Kefalloniá ❮❮ 27

Drapanos
7 ARGOSTÓLI AND THE
Bridge
Constructed in 1813, this 1953 EARTHQUAKE
imposing stone bridge On 12 August 1953, an
(left) links Argostóli with earthquake measuring
the villages opposite the 7.2 on the Richter scale
town. British governor struck the southern
Charles De Bosset began Ionian Islands. It caused
its cons truc tion, while massive damage to
successor Charles Napier Kefalloniá, which is said
to have risen 60 cm
completed it. The bridge (24 in) above the
is also known as De seabed, and Zákynthos.
Bosset Bridge. Argostóli was flattened
Lássi
8 and its infrastructure
damaged beyond repair.
A modern sprawl
of mid­range hotels, Hundreds died and
survivors lost their
restaurants and bars, homes and livelihoods.
Lássi is located on the The town has since been
out skirts of the capital. It rebuilt to its original,
has trendy tav er nas, water­ traditional look. The
sports, sandy beaches and inspiring story of how
lovely views across the Argostóli rose from the
water to Lixóuri. Locals rubble is told in the
come here to unwind. Korgialeneio Historical
and Folklore Museum.
Agios Spyrídon 9
This church in
Lithostróto (right) houses
the gold iconostasis
of the Cathedral of
Korgialeneio
Argostóli, which was
6 saved when the building
Historical and
Folklore Museum fell in 1953. A memorial
The island’s Venetian procession for the victims
conquest in 1500 AD, of the earthquake leaves
together with the destruc­ from here every year.
tion and rebuilding of
Agios Georgios (Kástro)
Argostóli after the 1953 0
earthquake is shown in The capital of Kefalloniá until 1757, the now
exhibits and photographs ruined 16th­century Venetian fortress of Agios
displayed in this museum. Georgios, together with its pretty whitewashed
Other exhibits include village of Kástro, can be reached by a winding
tools and costumes. mountain road. The fortress offers splendid views.
Argostóli, Kefalloniá NEED TO KNOW
4 2.5 km
(1.5 miles) MAP G5
KTEL Kefalonias Bus Service:
1 www.ktelkefalonias.gr/en
3
CHAROKOPOU
5 GEORG 9 Korgialeneios Library: Ilia Zervou 12
IOANNOU METAXA
6 Korgialeneio Historical and Folklore
7 Museum: Ilia Zervou 12; 26710 28835;
2 open 8:30am–3pm; adm
1.5 km 8
IOANNOU M ETAXA
(1 mile) Agios Spyrídon: Lithostróto
VIRONOS IOU VERG OTI
DEVOSETOU 0 7 km
EVGENIOU MPASIA
(4 miles)
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28 ❯❯ Top 10 Corfu and the Ionian Islands Highlights

Mýrtou Bay Area,
Kefalloniá


With its iconic white crescent-shaped beach, bright turquoise sea and
mountainous backdrop, Mýrtou Bay (Kolpos Mýrtou) has been voted
one of the most beautiful bays in the world, and is certainly the most
photographed in the Ionians. Often known as Myrtos, it is flanked by
two mountains, Agia Dynati and Kalon Oros, and can be reached by a
road of hairpin bends that descends sharply from the mountain village
of Divarata. South of
the bay lies the small
yet bustling fishing
village Agia Effimia.
Panoramic 1
Views
One of the most stunning
views of beautiful Mýrtou
Bay (right) is from above,
along the well-signposted
road from the village of
Sinióri. There is a special
viewing area for visitors
that offers sweep ing
views of the white beach,
the surrounding verdant
country side and the
brilliant blue sea.
Silver Birch
2
Forests
Turquoise Sea
Divarata
The rural landscape on 3 4
the hills above Mýrtou The road down to The sea’s vivid blue
Bay is largely made up of Mýrtou Bay descends colour is a result of the
forests of silver birch. This from Divarata, one of the white-pebble seabed
medium-sized deciduous small villages on Mount reflecting the light. The
tree can be recognized Agia Dynati. This scenic colour is intensified by
by its white trunk and village has several the deeply shelving beach
pale green leaves, and tavernas and lies along and the motion of the sea
is found only at higher the coast road from picking up tiny pebbles
altitudes on the island. Kardakata to Fiskárdo. as it hits the shore.
Agia Effimia
5
Mýrtou Bay lies
close to the traditional
fishing village of Agia
Effimia (left), the capital
of the Pylaros region.
Agia Effimia is known for
its lively nauti cal activ ity.
From here, tour boats
cruise along the coast,
affording some of the
best views of the bay.




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Mýrtou Bay Area, Kefalloniá ❮❮ 29



CAPTAIN CORELLI’S
MANDOLIN
Mýrtou Bay famously
featured in the 2001 film
Captain Corelli’s Mandolin,
which was adapted from
British novelist Louis de
White Pebble Beach
6 Bernières’ 1994 novel of
the same name. It tells
The dazzling white beach (above) has been
formed over millennia by the erosion of the cliffs of the eviction of the
Italians by the Germans
enclosing the bay. The rock debris was depo sited on in World War II (see p39).
the beach and worn down by the sea to form pebbles. Although both film and
book boosted tourism
in the bay, it retains its
idyllic nature and is
pro tected from
over-development.
3 8 5
Asos
0
6
7 Divarata
Makryotika
Agonas
Agia Effimia
Pétrikáta
Karavomylos
9
Dilináta
Mýrtou Bay Area, Kefalloniá
Diving and
Mount Kalon
NEED TO KNOW 8 0
Snorkelling
Oros
MAP H4 • Near Divarata Along with Agia Dynati, Coves
and Sinióri, Kefalloniá Kalon Oros forms a dra- With its tiny coves, caves
matic back drop to the bay. and rocks (below), Mýrtou
• The bay is protected
from development. It has At around 900 m (3,000 ft), Bay is a paradise for
few facilities, other than it offers superb views. snor kellers and divers.
basic refreshments. Look out for nearby pretty Take care, however, as
• The car park closest to villages where local crafts currents are strong and
and traditions still thrive.
the seabed drops sharply.
the beach fills up quickly
in summer so arrive Mount Agia
early to secure a space. 9
Dynati
According to Greek lore,
Sheer Cliffs
7 Agia Dynati was the rock
that Titan leader, Cronus,
The soaring cliffs
of Mýrtou Bay are a dropped to earth. After
photogenic highlight of Lefkáda’s Mount Elati
the area. Made up of and Kefalloniá’s Mount
calcite-rich limestone, Aino, Agia Dynati, at
the white cliffs contrast 1,100 m (4,000 ft), is the
sharply with the deep third-highest mountain
blue colour of the sea. in the Ionian Islands.
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30 ❯❯ Top 10 Corfu and the Ionian Islands Highlights

Caves of Kefalloniá

The massive Drogkaráti cave and the subter ranean Melissáni cave,
with its natural lake, are just two of Kefalloniá’s must-see caves.
These natural wonders feature stalactites and stalagmites, which
have formed over thousands of years. Other caves to visit include
Angalaki, Zervati, Sakkos, Aghia Eleousa and Aghia Theodori.
Kefalloniá has suffered severely in earthquakes over the centuries,
but the tremors have revealed entrances to these magnificent caves.
Melissáni Cave 1
Discovered by
spele ologist Gianni
Petrochilo, in 1951, this
cave (right) near Sámi is
believed to have been the
sanc tuary of the god Pan.
It is famous for its blue
lake lit by the sun through
a hole in its roof. The lake
is fed from the sea via
underground caves.
Aghia Eleousa
2
Cave
Remarkable only for the
fact that it was created
by nature, this cave is
neither deep nor large.
However, it does empty
into a salt­water lake
thought to be connected
to the underground
stream network that
feeds Lake Melissáni.
Angalaki Cave
Agios
Zervati Cave
3 4 5
Gerasimos
This cave has
This enormous
Named after the patron cave can be found along passages that descend
Agia
saint of Kefalloniá, this the main road leading deep into the earth. With Kardakáta Effimia
cave (below) at Lássi north out of Sámi. Among Angalaki cave, it is one of 1
is said to be where St its fascinating features the deepest in the area 2 Sámi
Gerasimos lived when he are huge caverns, under­ and has great caverns and 0 Poulata
first came to the island ground lakes and shelves under ground lakes, many Argostóli Faraklata
in 1560. A tiny chapel can along the walls formed with submerged stalac­ Lássi
still be seen in the cave. by erosion of the rocks. tites and stalagmites. Peratáta Póros
Lourdáta
Aghia
6 Skála
Theodori Cave
One of the lesser­known
caves, Aghia Theodori is
a deep shaft that leads
to a small underground
lake, thought to be home
to a variety of fish and
subterranean foliage.
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Caves of Kefalloniá ❮❮ 31

Drogkaráti
7 STALACTITES AND
Cave
Located near Sámi, this STALAGMITES
cave (left) is believed to Stalactites thrive in a
be more than one million cave-like environment
years old. Its natural and hang from the
wonders include the ceiling of many caves
creatively named Royal in Kefalloniá. They are
Balcony – a natural plat­ created by mineral
form where visitors can deposits found in rain
that seeps through rock
stand to admire stalac­ and solidifies when it
tites and stalagmites. reaches air. They grow at
Here, too, is the famous a rate of around 10 mm
Chamber of Exaltation, (0.3 in) every 100 years.
which has perfect Stalagmites are the
acoustics and is used structures formed on the
for musical concerts. cave floor by drips from
the stalactites above.
Sakkos Cave
8
Located in Skála,
not far from the location NEED TO KNOW
of the ancient Temple of
Apollo, this cave is com­ Melissáni Cave: MAP
prised of two caverns H5; near Sámi; open
linked by a tunnel, and daily 8am–8pm; adm
has some magnificent Aghia Eleousa Cave:
stalactites and stalag­ MAP H5; near Sámi
mites. Fragments of Agios Gerasimos Cave:
pottery, implements and MAP G6; Lássi
tools found here, as well
as inscriptions, suggest it Angalaki Cave: MAP
may have been a dwelling H5; near Sámi
in ancient times. Zervati Cave: MAP H5;
near Sámi
Loizos Cave
9 Aghia Theodori Cave:
This dramatic cave
is believed to have been MAP H5; near Sámi
Drogkaráti Cave: MAP
a place of worship for H5; near Sámi; open
Caves of Kefalloniá more than 2,000 years. 8am–8pm daily; adm
9 6 5 The remains of a sanc­ Sakkos Cave: MAP J6;
tuary that date to the 9th
Agia near Skála
Kardakáta Effimia century BC were found
1 here. Further excav­ Loizos Cave: MAP G5;
2 Sámi ations revealed near Kardakata
Poulata 4 artifacts that could
0 Faraklata 7 be dated to the Faraklata Cave: Map H5;
Argostóli Mycenaen period, Faraklata
Lássi Peratáta Póros the Geometric • Try to visit early in
Lourdáta period (900– the morning or late in
700 BC) and the the afternoon to avoid
Skála
3 8 Roman period. the crowds in the caves
at the middle of the day.
Faraklata Cave
0 • The route down to the
This lesser­known cave lies on a mountain
caves can be steep and
slope overlooking the Gulf of Argostóli, to the east of the ground damp and
Faraklata village. It is a small, but challenging cave slippery, so watch your
to explore. Excavations have revealed pottery that step or ask for help.
suggest it was a dwelling more than 2,000 years ago.
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32 ❯❯ Top 10 Corfu and the Ionian Islands Highlights

Zákynthos Town

The elegant capital and principal port of the island of the
same name, Zákynthos Town boasts beautiful squares,
arcaded streets and an attractive waterfront, where
colourful fishing boats bustle in and out of the harbour.
Although the town dates back centuries, its buildings
were all but destroyed in the 1953 earthquake that
shook the Ionian Islands. It has been sensitively rebuilt
in a Venetian Neo-Classical style, in its original layout.
Naval Museum
4
of Zákynthos
Dedicated to the history of
the Greek merchant navy,
this museum has a large
collection of instru ments,
uniforms and paintings
from the 18th century to
the present day. Also on
dis play are records of
naval activity during the
two world wars.
Ecclesiastical Museum
1 Byzantine
Housed in the Monastery of
Museum
St Dionýsios, this museum (above) 5
displays a valuable col lection of icons One of the best collections
from the Monastery of Strofades, home of ecclesiastical art in
to St Dionýsios in the 16th century. Greece is on show at
this museum in Plateia
Lomvardou Street
2 Solomóu. Its magnificent
Known locally as Strata Marina,
icons and frescoes were
the esplanade that runs alongside the saved when the island’s
harbour has elegant build ings on one churches crumbled in the
side and colourful boats on the other. 1953 quake (see pp34–5).
NEED TO KNOW 26950 42714; open
8am–3pm Tue–Sun;
Ecclesiastical Museum: adm €4, concessions €2
MAP L6; Church of St
Dionýsios; 26950 22233; Church of Agios Nikolaos
open 9am–1pm, 2–6pm Molos: MAP M4; Plateia
Tue–Sun; adm €2 Solomóu
Lomvardou Street: MAP L5 Church of Agios Dionýsios:
MAP L6; Ag Dionýsiou
Venetian Fortress: MAP K4; Bochali Hill: MAP K4
Bochali Hill; 26950 48099;
open summer: 8am–3pm Museum of Solomós: MAP
Venetian
3 Tue–Sun; winter: 8:30am– L4; Plateia Ag Markou;
26950 28982; www.
Fortress
3pm Tue–Sun; adm €4
Overlooking the town, Naval Museum of museumsolomos.gr; open
9am–2pm daily; adm €4
this mid-17th-century Zákynthos: MAP K4; Plateia Rouga: MAP L5
fort ress once played a key Bochali Hill; open
role defending the town. 9am–2pm daily; adm €3 • Most of the town’s main
Look out for the Lions of Byzantine Museum: MAP thorough fares run
St Markos inscrip tion over M4; Plateia Solomóu; parallel to the esplanade.
the entrance (above).
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Zákynthos Town ❮❮ 33


3 8 9 5
PL. AG.
MARKOU
PLATEIA ROUGA KOLYVA LOMVARDOU
PLATEIA
4 SOLOMÓU
A NASTASI O U
0 6
PL. AG. 2
SARANDA
PL. AG.
PAVLOU
1 DIONÝSIOS
PL. AG.
7
Zákynthos Town
Bochali Hill
8
This hill is thought
to be the site of the
anc ient acropolis Psofida,
upon which the fort was
built. Surrounded by pine
forests, it offers splendid
views of the pretty suburb
of Zoodochos Pigi.










Harbour of Zákynthos Town
Church of Agios
Church of
6 7 Museum of
Agios Nikolaos
Dionýsios
Solomós
Molos The impressive church of 9
This pretty mid-16th St Dionýsios (below) is This museum celebrates
century church is one dedicated to the island’s the lives of prominent
of the few of Zákynthos’s patron saint, whose body Zákynthiot citizens, most
original Venetian buildings lies here in a silver coffin. notably the 19th-century
to have survived the The church’s Venetian bell poet Dionysios Solomós
1953 earthquake. tower is a town landmark. (above). It houses the
poet’s tomb and a collec-
tion of his manuscripts.
Plateia Rouga
0
The town’s main
thoroughfare, the Plateia
Rouga has side streets
with chic shops and cafés
where you can sit and
watch the world go by.



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34 ❯❯ Top 10 Corfu and the Ionian Islands Highlights

Byzantine Museum,
Zákynthos Town


Model of Zákynthos Town
1 on the left with an unopened scroll
A fascinating exhibit, this 1:500 and keys in his hands, this well­
detailed scaled mod el by local 20th­ preserved door was saved from the
century artist Yianni Manesi shows Panagia (Virgin) Gavalousa church.
the layout and Venetian archi tecture It has been dated to around 1570.
of Zákynthos Town as it looked before
Birth of the Theotokos
the devastating earthquake of 1953. 5
The work of Nikólaos Doxaras,
a much­admired 18th­century artist,
this lavish painting once adorned the
ceiling of the Phaneromeni church in
Zákynthos Town. It shows St Anna on
a couch with a newborn child and
servants. They are watched over by
winged angels encased in a cloud.
Hellenic and Byzantine
6
Sculpture Collection
The museum has an extensive
Model of Zákynthos before 1953 collection of sculptures, figurines
and architectural remnants dating
Descent from the Cross
2 from the Hellenic and Byzantine
This fine painting of Christ being periods. Each piece is subtly lit and
lowered from the cross after his cruci­ displayed with an informative label.
fixion is from the church of St Andreas
Procession with the
of the Gardens. Painted by Greek 7
artist Nikólaos Kantounes, it’s one of Relics of St Charalambos
the museum’s most prized exhibits. Artist Ioánnis Korais painted this
acclaimed work of art in 1756. It
St Demetrios of Kola
3 shows the social groups of the day –
Templon
including children, women, men,
Dated by its inscription to the year priests and officials – in a procession
1690, this beautifully carved and with an icon of one of the island’s
gilded templon
(sanctuary screen)
would have once
stood between the
congregation and the
inner sanctuary and
altar of the church of
St Demetrios of Kola.
Sanctuary
4
Door from
Panagia
Gavalousa
Depicting the
Apostles Paul on
the right panel
holding a closed
book, and Peter Sanctuary screen from the church of St Demetrios of Kola




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Zákynthos Town ❮❮ 35

Prophet David Portrait
saints, St Charalambos held aloft on 9
a cathedra. The painting was rescued The vibrant colours of Nikólaos
from the church of the same name. Doxaras’ 18th-century portrait of the
Prophet David, are typical of the
Panagia Amolyntos
8 Heptanese school, which blended
The title translates to mean the
Venetian and orthodox influences.
“Immaculate Virgin”,
Church of the
and this painting by 0
Cretan Emmanuel Soter Wall
Tzanes shows Mary Fresco
holding the infant Dating from the 12th
Christ. It once century, this is one of the
adorned the walls of oldest and most impor-
the Phaneromeni tant exhibits here. It was
Church in Zákynthos rescued from the Church
Town. Considered an of the Soter (Saviour) in
important example of the town’s Venetian fort -
17th-century art, it ress (the Kástro) and
is one of the muse- shows Saint Theodote
um’s main exhibits. Panagia Amolyntos with her children.
ZÁKYNTHOS’S HISTORY
Named after Zákynthos, the son of the Arcadian TOP 10
hero Dardanos of Troy, this island has a stormy ZÁKYNTHOS’S HISTORY
past, according to myth. It was con quered by 1 Before 459 BC
King Arkesios of Kefalloniá, then Odysseus of Arkesios of Kefalloniá and
Ithaki before an alliance was formed with Odysseus of Ithaki rule
Athens during the First Peloponnesian War 2 c.459–446 BC
around 459 BC. Zákynthos came under Alliance with Athens in
Byzantine rule from around the 8th century, First Peloponnesian War
followed by Neapolitan rule when it became 3 c.700–1185
part of the Kingdom of Naples in 1185. Venetian The Ionian Islands came
rule followed in the 15th century, a time of under Byzantine rule
progress for the island. The French, Russians and 4 1185–1479
British all left their legacy on Zákynthos until, Zákynthos becomes part
in 1953, it was all but destroyed in a mighty of the Kingdom of Naples
earthquake. Zákynthos Town has now been 5 1479–1797
rebuilt in keeping with its original architecture. Venice rules the island
6 1797–8
Briefly part of the French
department of Mer-Égée
7 1798–1807
Part of Ottoman Empire,
in alliance with Russia
8 1809–64
After brief French rule, the
British take control
9 1864–present
The Ionian Islands form a
union with Greece
10 1953
Huge cracks in the ground opened up following Major earthquake, after
the catastrophic 1953 earthquake in Zákynthos. which the towns are rebuilt







034-035_Top_10_Corfu.indd 35 27/11/2017 17:31

The Top 10 of

Everything












The Blue Caves of Zákynthos,
a spectacular natural wonder















































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Moments in History 38 Trips to the Mainland 50
Myths and Legends 40 Children’s Attractions 52
Museums and Galleries 42 Restaurants 54
Cathedrals and Monasteries 44 Corfu and the Ionian Islands
for Free 56
Beaches 46
Festivals and Events 58
Natural Wonders 48






















































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38 ❯❯ The Top 10 of Everything

Moments in History


Colonization by
Venetian Rule (1204–
1 4
1797)
Mainland Greeks
(700–500 BC) The Republic of Venice took control of
Settlers from mainland Greece the Ionians from 1204. This was a key
arrived on the Ionian islands around period in the history of the islands –
the mid-8th century BC, but almost it was due to Venetian fortifica tions
no traces of their settlements survive that they avoided occupation during
except for the archaeological finds the Ottoman invasion of Greece. As a
on display in museums. In later result, the islands remained Christian.
centuries, the powerful mainland
state of Corinth sent settlers to set
up a vassal colony, Corcyra, on Corfu.
Peloponnesian War
2
(431–404 BC)
In 436 BC, Corcyra, by then a power
to be reckoned with, was drawn
into a war between democratic and
aristocratic factions in Epidamnus,
a smaller city founded by Corcyra
on the mainland. Corinth was drawn
into the conflict, which soon sucked in
Sparta and Corinth’s Peloponnesian
League allies on one side and Greece’s
rival superpower, Athens, on the
other. The ensuing Peloponnesian
War raged across the Hellenic world
for a generation, ending only with the
defeat of Athens in 404 BC.
French leader Napoleon Bonaparte
Septinsular Republic
5
(1800–07)
The Ionian Islands became a part of
France when Napoleon Bonaparte
conquered Venice in 1797. The
following year, the Russians, under
the distin guished naval com mander
Admiral Ushakov, evicted the French
and established the Russo-Ottoman
Septinsular Republic.
Drawing of the battle of Aegospotami French Occupation
Subjugation by Rome
(1807–14)
3 6
(197 BC)
The islands were reclaimed by France
The Ionian Islands were a part of the in 1807 and once again controlled by
Macedonian empire from the 4th cen- the French Empire. Although orga-
tury BC until 197 BC, when Greece nized into départements under the
was subjugated by Rome. The islands previous French rule, they were
enjoyed peace as part of the Roman now considered part of the Illyrian
Empire until Venetian occupiers Provinces. The islands remained
arrived in 1204, after the invasion of strategic locations to the French until
Constantinople in the Fourth Crusade. Napoleon’s empire collapsed in 1814.





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Moments in History ❮❮ 39

British Protectorate
7 TOP 10 HISTORICAL FIGURES
(1814–64)
The 1815 Treaty of Paris placed the
Ionian Islands under British pro tec­
tion. During this time the British
High Commissioner and an elected
assembly worked together to
improve the islands’ infrastructure.
Union with Greece
8
(1864)
Ionian residents wanted a union with
Greece after the country gained its
inde pen dence in 1830. Britain Empress Elisabeth of Austria
eventually agreed to relinquish 1 Nikolaos Doxaras
the islands, and the Ionians became Doxaras (1706–75), a prominent
provinces of the Kingdom of painter whose work combined
Greece in 1864. Byzantine and Italian influences,
spent most of his life on Zákynthos.
Axis Occupation (1941)
9 2 Sir Thomas Maitland
During World War II, the Axis
Sir Thomas (1759–1824) was the first
alliance, which included Germany, British Lord High Commissioner of the
Japan and Italy, took control of Ionians, from 1815 to 1823.
Greece. The Italians claimed sole 3 Ioannis Capodistrias
power in 1941, but the Germans Born in Corfu, Capodistrias (1776–1831)
evicted them in 1943 and killed most led Greece to independence and was
of the Jewish popu lation. the Greek Republic’s first premier.
4 Sir Frederick Adam
Major Earthquake (1953)
0 Sir Frederick (1781–1853) was the
second Lord High Commissioner of
The most significant event
in the recent history of the Ionian the Ionians, from 1824 to 1831.
Islands was the devastating earth­ 5 Dionýsios Solomós
Zákynthos-born poet Dionýsios
quake of 1953. It recorded 7.2 on the Solomós (1798–1857) wrote the
Richter scale and des troyed entire Greek national anthem.
towns on Zákynthos and Kefalloniá. 6 Empress Elisabeth of Austria
Many towns have since been rebuilt Empress of Bavaria and later of Austria,
to earthquake­proof standards. Elisabeth (1837–98) had Corfu’s
Achílleion Palace built in the 1890s.
Earthquake ruins in Zákynthos, 1953 7 King George I
King George I of Greece (1845–1913)
used Corfu’s Mon Repos Estate as his
summer residence.
8 Kaiser Wilhelm II
The last German emperor, Wilhelm II
(1859–1941), bought the Achílleion
Palace after Elisabeth of Austria died.
9 Ioannis Metaxas
Born in Ithaki, Metaxas (1871–1941)
ruled as a dictator of Greece from
1936 until his death.
10 Aristotle Onassis
Billionaire ship-owner Onassis
(1906–75), once the richest man in
Greece, bought tiny Skorpios, off
Ithaki, as a private hideaway. He is
buried there.




038-039_Top_10_Corfu.indd 39 11/01/2018 12:50

40 ❯❯ The Top 10 of Everything

Myths and Legends


The Odyssey, Ithaki
Agios Spyridon,
1 4
Corfu
According to legend, Ithaki
was the home of the ancient Credited with saving Corfu
Greek hero Odysseus, who from Turkish invasion in 1716,
was depicted so vividly in St Spyridon is the patron saint
Homer’s epic poem The of the island. His miraculously
Odyssey. The great warrior pre served remains were
returned here from Troy to be brought to Corfu from
reunited with his love, Penelope. Constantinople after
the 1453 Ottoman
Corinthians,
2 relics are carried in
conquest. His
Lefkáda
In ancient times, a narrow procession on Palm Sunday
strip of land connected and other holy days.
Lefkáda to the mainland.
Analipsi Spring,
Legend has it that the 5
Corinthians, who had Corfu
established Leukas city – Odysseus statue, Local legend says that visitors
modern-day Lefkáda Ithaki port who drink from the Analipsi
Town – wanted complete spring, near the highest point
con trol of the territory, so they of the Kanoni peninsula in southern
destroyed the isthmus to create Corfu, will never return home.
the island of Lefkáda. Poseidon, Paxí
Hermit Gerasímos,
3 6
Legend has it that Paxí was
Kefalloniá
joined to Corfu in the past, but was
St Gerasímos, the patron saint of separated when the sea god
Kefalloniá, lived as a her mit in the Poseidon (Neptune) became enraged
Agios Gerasímos cave near Argostóli. and dealt a blow to the region with
Close by is a convent founded by the his trident. The single island split
saint in the 16th century, and the to become two, so the story goes,
Monastery of St Gerasímos (see p45), and now the island of Paxí lies to the
which houses the saint’s remains. south of Corfu.














Neptune’s Horses (1893), an oil painting by Walter Crane






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Myths and Legends ❮❮ 41

The Gorgon Medusa,
7 TOP 10 HISTORIC SITES
Corfu
Envious of her beauty, the goddess
Athena turned the maiden Medusa
into a snake-haired monster whose
gaze turned the beholder into stone.
Her hideous effigy, carved on the
marble pediment of the Temple of
Artemis, is the most important
exhibit in the collection of the Corfu
Archaeological Museum (see p42).
Sappho, Lefkáda
8 Palaio Frourio fortress, Corfu Town
Greek poet Sappho was born
around 620 BC. It is said that she 1 Palaio Frourio, Corfu
fell in love with an ugly boatman, This old fortress dom inates Corfu
Phaon, whom the goddess Aphrodite Town’s skyline (see pp14–15).
changed into a hand some man. 2 St Kerkyra Basilica, Corfu
Phaon rejected Sappho, who then Now lying in ruins, this church was
jumped to her death from the cliffs an important place of worship in the
near Cape Lefkáda. 5th century AD (see p17).
3 Mazarakata Mycenean Cemetery,
Kefalloniá
An ancient Mycenaean graveyard has
been unearthed near Argostolí (see p86).
4 Analipsi Hill, Corfu
MAP D4 • Corfu Town, Corfu
The remains of a 6th-century BC Doric
temple stand on this hill.
5 Angelokastro, Corfu
MAP B3 • Krini, Corfu
Located near Krini, this was the site of
the 13th-century Angelokastro for tress.
6 Skála, Kefalloniá
Sappho and Phaon (1809), an oil A 3rd-cen tury-BC Roman villa near the
painting by Jacques-Louis David town of Skála houses some remarkably
well-preserved floor mosaics (see p86).
Panagia Langouvarda,
9 7 Palaeochóra, Ithaki
Kefalloniá
Local legend claims that thousands MAP J4 • Palaeochóra, Ithaki
Once Ithaki’s capital, this medieval site
of harmless snakes appear each includes ruins of houses and churches.
August at the convent of Panagia 8 Hypapanti, Paxí
Langouvarda, where the Virgin MAP A5 • Hypapanti, Paxí
turned the nuns into snakes to save Legend has it that this sea cave was
them from a band of pirates. If the a Byzantine church dedicated to the
snakes do not appear, it is an ill Presentation of Christ in the Temple.
omen, which villagers avert by 9 Cavo Nira Sanctuary, Lefkáda
delivering them by the sackful at According to Greek folklore, this
the Feast of the Virgin. ancient sanctuary was once the shrine
of Apollo Leukatas (see p76).
Nymph Melissanthi,
0 10 Monastery of the Revealed
Kefalloniá
Saints, Kefalloniá
The famous blue cave of Kefalloniá is MAP H5 • Sámi, Kefalloniá
named after the nymph Melissanthi, This ruined monastery retains some
who is said to have drowned herself important post-Byzantine wall frescoes.
here for the love of the god Pan.




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42 ❯❯ The Top 10 of Everything

Museums and Galleries



















Fresco from St Andrea’s Monastery at the Byzantine Museum, Zákynthos
Byzantine Museum,
Archaeological Museum,
1 4
Corfu
Zákynthos
The museum has a fabulous collection The sculptured Gorgon Medusa frieze,
of ecclesias tical art comprising pieces found at the ancient site of the Temple
that were saved from the island’s of Artemis and dating back to 590 BC,
churches and monasteries follow ing is a highlight here. The 7th-century BC
the devastating 1953 earth quake. Lion of Menecrates sculpture is also on
Displays include icons, paintings, display. The museum remains closed
templons (sanc tuary screens) and for renovation due to lack of funds and
even a model of the elegant pre- no firm reopening date has been set.
earthquake town (see pp34–5). Vathý Archaeological
Antivouniotissa
Museum, Ithaki
2 5
Museum, Corfu
MAP J4 • Vathý, Ithaki • 26740 32200
Located in the Church of Panagia • Open 9am–4pm Tue–Sun • Adm
Antivouniotissa, one of the oldest On display here are ceramic pots and
churches on the Ionians, this museum vases, metal tools and household items
has a fabulous collec tion of Byzantine from the Geometric period of Greek
and post-Byzantine treasures and art (9th to 7th centuries BC) to Roman
ecclesias ti cal arti facts from the times. Many were found during digs
15th to the 20th century (see p12). at Piso Aetós (see p87). The most
notable exhibit is a deco rated vase
Naval Museum,
3 with inscriptions about the
Zákynthos
goddesses Athena and Hera.
Reports and letters written
Museum of
during the two world wars, 6
with details of the Greek Asiatic Art, Corfu
merchant navy’s war time Housed in the Palace of St
activities, are the high lights Michael and St George, this
of this museum. Also on museum has over 11,000 pieces
display are uniforms, of Chinese, Korean and
paint ings and arti facts Japanese wea pons, furni-
from old ships, some ture and cer am ics col-
dating back to the 18th Exhibit from the lected by Corfiot diplo mat
century (see p32). Museum of Asiatic Art Grigórios Mános (see p12).

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Museums and Galleries ❮❮ 43

Pantazis Kontomixis
7 TOP 10 UNUSUAL MUSEUMS
Folklore Museum,
Lefkáda
The exhibits in this museum chronicle 1 Phonograph Museum, Lefkáda
every day life on the island. On display A stunning private collection of old
are textiles, household items and records and phonographs (see p25).
tools. One room has been trans- 2 Banknote Museum, Corfu
formed to resemble a traditional MAP P5 • Nikiforou Theotoki 32
home, giving a further insight into Corfu’s historic banknotes are displayed
the island’s culture (see pp24–5). in this fascinating museum.
3 Museum of Messi, Corfu
Archaeological Museum,
8 MAP C4 • Sinarades
Lefkáda
• 26610 54962
With a collection of artifacts dating This rural house has been con verted
into an interesting museum.
from the early Bronze Age, this
museum explores Lefkáda’s ancient 4 Grigorios Xenopoulos Museum,
history. Its exhibits were excavated Zákynthos
MAP M2 • Gaita, Zákynthos Town
from sites around the island (see p25). • 26950 45078
The Zákynthian writer’s childhood home
displays his books and family heirlooms.
5 Monastery of Faneroménis
Museum, Lefkáda
Christian art is displayed here (see p24).
6 Karya Museum, Lefkáda
MAP H2 • Kariá, Lefkáda • 26450
41590
Exhibits here showcase the way of life
of Lefkádite mountain villagers.
7 Folk Museum, Paxí
MAP B5 • Gäios, Paxí • 26620 32566
Each room here describes Paxí’s history.
8 Shell Museum, Corfu
Archaelogical Museum, Lefkáda MAP D4 • Benítses Harbour
• 26610 72227
Museum of Solomós,
9 Thousands of shells are exhi bited here.
Zákynthos
Dedicated to famous Zákynthians, 9 Maritime Museum, Zákynthos
MAP L2 • Tsiliví
including the 19th-century poets This museum displays a wide range
Dionýsios Solomós, who wrote the of unique mari time objects.
Greek National Anthem, and Andreas 10 Patounis Soap Factory, Corfu
Kalvos, this museum has a fine collec- MAP P2 • Corfu Town • 26610 39806
tion of manu scripts and displays of See olive oil soap being made and
personal possessions. It also houses stamped in the tradi tional way here.
the tomb of Solomós (see pp32–3).
Stavrós Archaeological
0
Museum, Ithaki
MAP H4 • Stavrós, Ithaki • 26740
23955 • Open summer: 9am–4pm
Tue–Sun; winter: 8:30am–3pm Tue–Sun
This compact museum, housed in a
single room of a beautiful old village
house, has some fantastic exhibits
including items believed to date from
ancient times, when the nearby Bay Inside the Patounis Soap Factory
of Polis (see p88) was a major port.




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44 ❯❯ The Top 10 of Everything

Cathedrals and
Monasteries


Platytera Monastery,
3
Corfu
MAP N2 • Corfu Town, Corfu
Famous for housing the tomb of the
first Governor of Greece – the Corfiot
Ioánnis Kapodístrias who held office
from 1827 to 1831 – this monastery
dates from the 18th century. Nearby
there is a statue of the governor.
Cathedral of the Virgin,
4
Ithaki
MAP J4 • Vathý, Ithaki
Dedicated to the Virgin Mary, this
Greek Orthodox cathedral is quite
beautiful. Its carved stone work and
bell tower, which date from 1820, are
well preserved, and the 18th­century
Katharon Monastery interior, Ithaki iconostasis is one of the finest
examples in the Ionians.
Katharon Monastery,
1 Monastery of the Virgin
Ithaki
Hodegetria, Lefkáda
MAP H4 • Anogi, Ithaki 5
Sitting at an altitude of around 600 m MAP J1 • Lefkáda Town outskirts,
(2,000 ft), Katharon is one of the Lefkáda
highest monasteries on the islands. Built in 1420, this monastery is the
It lies on Mount Niritos, not far from oldest on Lefkáda and is noted for
the small village of Anogi. Remote its traditional 15th­century design,
and beautiful, the monas tery is characterized by a single aisle and an
dedicated to the Virgin Mary. austere exterior. The craftsmanship
of its tim ber roof is mesmerizing.
Cathedral of the
2 Monastery of the Virgin
Evangelistria, Kefalloniá
of Vlacherna, Corfu
MAP G5 • Argostóli, Kefalloniá 6
A rela tively new landmark in MAP D4 • Kanóni, Corfu
Kefallonia’s capital, Argostóli, the Set in a stunning location on the islet
Cathedral of the Evangelistria is an of Vlacherna and linked to Corfu by a
enchanting Greek Orthodox structure small bridge, the Monastery of the
that was built in 1957. It is significant Virgin of Vlacherna dates back cen­
because of its intricate icons and ico­ turies. The distinctive white build ing
nostasis, which are the work of cele­ lies on the edge of a beautiful lagoon
brated local artist Theodoroi Poulakis. known as Chalikopoulos.
Monastery of the Virgin of Vlacherna, Corfu












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Cathedrals and Monasteries ❮❮ 45

Monastery of St John of
7 TOP 10 RELIGIOUS FESTIVALS
Lagada, Zákynthos
MAP L2 • Katastári, Zákynthos
Mountains provide an impressive
backdrop to this remote mon astery,
which has a delightful chapel with
an iconostasis and wall fres coes.
Cathedral of the Virgin
8
Spiliotissa, Corfu
MAP P4 • Corfu Town, Corfu
Dedicated to one of the island’s saints,
St Theodora, this Greek Orthodox
cathedral in Corfu Town dates from Easter procession in Corfu
the 16th century. Its carved-wood 1 Epiphany
iconos tasis is well-preserved and January sees Epiphany festivities take
covered with icons of the Virgin. place, when the waters are blessed at
sea fronts around the islands.
2 Shrove Monday
Signalling the start of Lent, Orthodox
Shrove Monday is marked with a
service at the beginning of March.
3 Lent
Most Ionians mark this period by
observing abstinence to commem­
orate Jesus’s fasting before Easter.
4 Good Friday and Easter Monday
Pretty bombola lights line the routes
of all the Easter processions that take
place on the Ionian Islands.
Cathedral of the Virgin Spiliotissa 5 Easter
Monastery of the Virgin
9 The most sacred religious festival in
the Ionians, Easter is a time for families
Anafonítria, Zákynthos
to celebrate with services and a feast.
MAP K2 • Anafonítria, Zákynthos 6 Procession of the Icon of the
Home to St Dionýsios from the 16th to Sisies Monastery, Kefalloniá
17th centuries, this remote monastery Kefalloniá marks Easter Monday with
is noted for the gold-covered icono s- this important religious procession.
tasis and icons in its small chapel. The icon of the Sisies Monastery is
carried through the streets.
Monastery of St
0 7 Pentecost
Gerasímos, Kefalloniá
This festival marks the descent of the
MAP G5 • Argostóli, Kefalloniá Holy Ghost and is celebrated with
Dedicated to Kefalloniá’s patron saint, church services and family feasts.
St Gerasímos (see p40), whose 8 Dormition of the Virgin
remains lie here, this monastery This festival takes place on 15 August
sits in the foothills of Mount Ainos. and is marked with church services.
9 Christmas
Christmas is marked with festivals,
prayers and the giving of gifts to
friends and family on Christmas Eve.
10 Traditional Festivals
Each island’s patron saint is celebrated
with traditional festivals of dance,
music and feasts in village squares.





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46 ❯❯ The Top 10 of Everything

Beaches
























The long, sandy and secluded Mýlos beach, Lefkáda
Mýlos Beach, Lefkáda
Xi Beach, Kefalloniá
1 3
The sandy Mýlos beach,
Famous for its fine red sand,
Xi beach is located opposite Argostóli with its picturesque old stone
and south of Lixoúri on the Pallikí windmills, is a great place to go
peninsula. Rows of parasols provide if you wish to escape the crowds.
shade from the sun, and cliffs form It lies near the lively fishing village
a stunning backdrop (see p90). of Agios Nikitas (see p78), from
where you can walk over the head­
Pórto Katsiki Beach,
2 land to the beach or take a boat
Lefkáda
along the coast (see p25).
Located not far from the windsurfer’s
Platýs Gialos and Makrýs
paradise of Vasilikí (see p76), Lefkáda’s 4
Pórto Katsiki beach, surrounded by Gialos, Kefalloniá
lush vegetation and tall cliffs, is con­ These two beaches lie side by side
sidered one of the best bays on the at Lassí on Kefalloniá’s west coast,
island. This spectacular beach is south of Argostóli (see pp26–7). Both
horseshoe­shaped and has golden are long and sandy, with a scattering
sand and interesting rock for mations of rocks. The sea here is especially
that are fun to explore (see p76). safe for swimmers, and watersports
enthusiasts can be seen water­
skiing and windsurfing (see p90).
Arillas Beach, Corfu
5
Located on the north west
coast of Corfu, near the town of
Agios Stefanos, Arillas beach is a
long stretch of soft sand and is
as picturesque as it is quiet. The
turquoise sea breaks against
several small islands and islets
Beautiful Pórto Katsiki beach, Lefkáda that lie off its shoreline (see p68).



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Beaches ❮❮ 47

Voutoumi Beach,
6
Antipaxí
Sandy Voutoumi beach lies on the
eastern coast of Antipaxí. It is linked
to nearby Vrika beach by a pathway
that passes by the vineyards and
olive and citrus groves that dominate
the island’s pretty land scape. The
beach offers fabulous views of the
coastline, and trees here provide
shelter from the sun (see p68).
Antísamos Beach,
7
Kefalloniá
One of several Kefallonián beaches
that featured in the 2001 film Captain
Corelli’s Mandolin (see p29), Antísamos
is a beautiful beach located near the Vromi Cove, Zákynthos
east-coast town of Sámi (see p85).
Vromi Cove, Zákynthos
This white shingle beach looks out 0
across the water to Ithaki opposite This pretty cove on the west
and is popular with locals. It has a coast of Zákynthos is just one of
back drop of hills and forest (see p90). several dotted along this stretch of
coastline, including Exo Chora (see
Vrika Beach, Antipaxí
8 p102) and Navagio beach, also known
One of the most popular
as Shipwreck Bay (see p99). Vromi
beaches on Antipaxí, Vrika is char- overlooks a pristine sea and has soft
acterized by its golden sands and honey-coloured sand (see p102).
clear turquoise sea. Yachts and motor
boats can often be seen anchored a Sidári Kalpáki
little way off this picture-postcard
cove, while their owners take a dip Ioánnina
in the warm water (see p68). Corfu Town
Igoumenitsa
Corfu
Lefkimmi GREECE
Párga
Paxí
Antipaxí
Árta
Préveza
Lefkáda Town
Ionian Lefkáda Nydrí
S ea
Astakós
View of Vrika beach, Antipaxí Fiskárdo
Ithaki
Vathý
Gialiskari Beach, Corfu
9 Kefalloniá Sámi
The idyllic beach of Gialiskari
is the prettiest in a string of quiet, Argostóli Póros
sandy coves along Corfu’s west coast;
its neigh bours include Ermones, Kyllíni
Pélekas (see p67), Myrtiótissa (see p68) Katastári
and Agios Gordios. The coast line here 0 km 30
is dotted with rock formations, and is Zákynthos Zákynthos
Town
a popular camping spot (see p68). 0 miles 30



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48 ❯❯ The Top 10 of Everything

Natural Wonders


is particularly noted for its ancient
history. Archaeological finds from the
Upper Palaeolithic period, around
20,000 BC, indicate that this rock
shelter may have once been a site
where hunters gathered.
Lake Melissáni,
3
Kefalloniá
Fed by a system of caves (see pp30–31),
this under ground lake is a mix of sea
water and fresh water. The mineral
content gives the lake its deep blue
colour. It was named after the nymph
Melissáni when ancient artifacts
showing the god Pan and several
nymphs were discovered here.
4
Awesome interior of Drogkaráti Cave The Spring of Aretousa,
Ithaki
Drogkaráti Cave,
1 MAP J4 • S of Vathý, Ithaki
Kefalloniá
The Spring of Aretousa is believed to
This huge and enchanting cave, be the one described by Homer in
located at Sámi, is believed to be The Odyssey, where Odysseus met
more than a million years old. Its Eumaeus. Whether this is true or
interiors are covered in stalactites not, the ravine-side walk towards
and stalagmites. The Royal Balcony the spring is beautiful, if a little chal-
and the Chamber of Exaltation, lenging for anyone afraid of heights.
which boasts such superb acoustics
Blue Caves, Zákynthos
that it is now often used as a venue 5
for operatic performances, are two of Located at Cape Skinári on the
the particularly breathtaking features northernmost tip of Zákynthos, the
the cave has to offer (see p31). Blue Caves are a delightful sight –
the water between the arches of the
Grava Gardikiou, Corfu
2 caves appears to be a vivid bright
MAP C5 • Southwest coast,
blue when the sun shines in. Take a
Corfu boat from Agios Nikólaos village and
Of all the the cave formations found sail along the coastline for the best
across the Ionians, Grava Gardikiou views of the caves (see p97).
The Blue Caves of Zákynthos
















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