62
december 2019 • `150 • VOL. 8 ISSUe 6 • NATGeOTrAV eLLer.IN
Indian
Journeys
BEST
of the
WORLD
Cradle Mountain-Lake
25 TRIPS FOR 2020 St Clair National Park,
Tasmania, Australia
NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC TRAVELLER INDIA
December2019
VOL. 8 ISSUE 6
96
7 ON THE COVER 67
DECEMBER 2019 • ` 150 • VOL. 8 ISSUE 6 • NATGEOTRAVELLER.IN
Journeys 62 Indian It’s hard to argue
with favourites.
best of india Harder to pass on Best of the world
the opportunity of HEINZ KLEIN/EYEEM/GETTY IMAGES (ROCKS), ATOMICZEN/MOMENT/GETTY IMAGES (COVER)
8 62 UNIQUE TRIPS TO TAKE finding a favourite 68 25 BEST TRIPS 2020
ACROSS THE COUNTRY BEST in the unknown. Where should you go in the year
of the
As many spots across India strain under WORLD Cradle Mountain-Lake To kick-start 2020, ahead? We collaborated with our 17
St Clair National Park,
25 TRIPS FOR 2020
Tasmania, Australia
overtourism, the unspoiled journey we list less-treaded international editorial teams to highlight
is now ever more precious. National alternatives to highschool cheerleader destinations to discover, places to
Geographic Traveller India’s writers have destinations from across the world. savour, and reasons to celebrate the
drawn up a list of 62 trips as alternatives Tasmania (in picture) to Tranquebar, world. From culture and adventure to
to mainstream experiences. Yes, Magdalen to Mawlyngbna, here’s where cities and nature, this is the ultimate
evergreen locales will remain popular, to go when you’re sick of the surefire. guide to go navigate the globe beyond
but in 2020, travel calls for bold thinking. the obvious.
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62
TRIPS IN
As many beloved spots across India strain under
overtourism, the unspoiled journey is now ever more
precious. National Geographic Traveller India’s writers
have drawn up a list of 62 trips—some faraway, some
well-worn, others rising hubs—as alternatives to
mainstream experiences. Yes, evergreen locales will
INDIA remain popular, but in 2020 travel calls for bold thinking.
FOOD & DRINK RELAXATION BEACH MOUNTAIN LOW-COST WATER
HERITAGE DANCE & MUSIC DESERT FOREST WILDLIFE STREET ART
CHANDERI SAINJI DANDELI BENGALURU FENI AND INLAND GETAWAYS IN GOA REH FESTIVAL YURUTSE PANCHESHWAR
NARORA POBITORA WILDLIFE SANCTUARY OMKARESHWAR MAHESHWAR PICHAVARAM DELWARA KASARGOD MUNROE
ISLAND MAWLYNGBNA NONGRIAT PAMBAN ISLAND LEH CUTTACK GUWAHATI KHURI SE LA MORENA 5 SUSTAINABLE
FINDS TABO DIGLIPUR MAHÉ TRANQUEBAR HAMPI SURYALANKA BEACH 10 UNDERRATED SPOTS IN ODISHA HONEY
VALLEY NAKO RAKCHAM POLLACHI 5 CITY GETAWAYS MUMBAI HONNAVAR MANAPAD TINCHULEY KHONOMA
INDIA TRIPS
CHANDERI, Madhya Pradesh
Culture Instead of weaving wonders, architectural marvels
HERITAGE
hile Chanderi is a
famed pit stop for
lovers of the weave,
the Madhya Padesh
W town sits like a
hidden jewel, also offering the magic
of an architecturally rich place less
travelled to.
Once coveted by the rulers of the
north for its strategic location as
a military outpost on the Malwa-
Bundelkhand border, the nondescript
town cherishes over 350 historical
structures, including Islamic, Hindu
and Jain ones, dated between early 10th
to the late 17th century—spread over its
labyrinthine lanes and further afield.
The 11th-century fort of Chanderi sits
atop a hill like the town surveyor; make
sure to climb it for panoramic views.
Other city haunts and monuments
worth visiting include: the imposing
Badal Mahal Gate; the exquisite,
three-domed Jama Masjid; tombs of
Khwaja Nizamuddin Auliya’s family
with beautiful jaali screens; Shehzadi
ka Rauza and Shahi Madarsa;
Sadar Bazaar, the commercial heart
of Chanderi; the charming baolis
(stepwells) of Chakla, and Battisi; Shri
Chaubisi Jain Temple and Khandagiri;
Lakshman Temple, on the banks of
Parmeshwar Tal; Chanderi Museum;
the stately Koshak Mahal; and the
original settlement of the town, Budhi
Chanderi, about 20 kilometres from the
present day city.
The town lends its name to the
gossamer Chanderi fabrics woven here.
Walking past houses in the weavers’
colony, one can hear the constant click-
clack of the loom, and even catch them
at work. –Nidhi Dhingra
HOW TO GO
Gwalior (210 km/4.5 hr) and Bhopal (230
km/4.5 hr) are the closest airports, from
where trains and cabs ply to Chanderi. Stay
options include hotel Tana Bana, or Amraee
Rural Resort. Hire a car and guide to enjoy ASIT JAIN/500PX PRIME/GETTY IMAGES
the treasures scattered far and wide. Cars
can be hired from Lalitpur (36 km/1 hr) or the
Jhansi station (110 km/2.5 hr), or from the
modest car rental service in Chanderi. Also,
check with your hotel or MPSTDC.
8 NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC TRAVELLER INDIA | DECEMBER 2019
Sainji, UTTARAKHAND Dandeli, KARNATAKA
Nature Instead of just Mussoorie, a quick detour Adventure Instead of water sports in Goa
Not too far away from the cool climes of When it comes to water-based adventure
Mussoorie, nestled in the Tehri Garhwal ranges of activities, Dandeli in the Western Ghats is like a
Uttarakhand, lies Sainji village, characterised by mini-Goa, minus the din and the haggling. Flowing
an unusual quirk. Outside most homes here hang through Dandeli, the turbulent Kali river can be
golden bunches of corn, considered a harbinger touted to have some of India’s best rapids for a
MOUNTAIN of good luck by locals. Corn thrives in the hills of WATER hair-raising white-water rafting experience. Best
Garhwal and is grown by most households. It is done with a group, one can choose from between
a tradition in the village, post harvest, to unleaf the com, bunch a 9 kilometres/4 hours run and a crisper 4 kilometres/2 hours
it together and hang it outside to dry. Nowhere else in Mussoorie jaunt, depending on time and fitness level.
will you find houses like these. Alternatively, give your muscles a serious workout by
The newer houses are blue and green in colour. At a 200-year- kayaking in the man-made Supa reservoir, set to background PHOTO COURTESY: JW MARRIOTT MUSSOORIE WALNUT GROVE RESORT & SPA (SAINJI), ARUN RAJENDRAN/EYEEM/GETTY
old wooden house in the village’s centre, two dozen bunches of scores orchestrated by exotic birds. Another activity on offer is
corn hang in the verandah. Besides the corn harvest, June is an zorbing, where one rolls along the water surface locked inside
important month of celebration here, for that is when the people a transparent plastic ball—not one for the claustrophobic. In
come together for an annual fishing festival called Maund. Weeks the evenings, kick back at a jungle camp in the Dandeli Wildlife
prior to the festival, a natural powder made from the Timru plant Sanctuary, easily arranged through Jungle Lodges & Resorts.
is dusted onto the waters of the Yamuna. The powder is meant as All water sports can be pre-booked on Dandeli.com. October
bait for the fish to swim to the surface, and leads villagers to their to March is the best time to visit, thanks to breezy weather and
best catch on Maund. –Pranjali Bhonde teeming birdlife. –Vikas Plakkot
HOW TO GO HOW TO GO
Dehradun is the nearest station (52 km/2 hr) and airport (76 km/2.5 Dandeli can be accessed from the gateway hubs of Goa and Hubli,
hr) to Sainji. From here, you can hire a car to the village. Sainji is both connected by train and flight to major Indian cities. Dandeli is 125 IMAGES (DANDELI)
around 18 km/45 min from Mussoorie. From the village, take a right km/3 hr from Goa, and 73 km/2 hr from Hubli—cabs are available at
after the Garhwal English School to get to the “corn row” houses. both airports. www.junglelodges.com
10 NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC TRAVELLER INDIA | DECEMBER 2019
INDIA TRIPS
BENGALURU, Karnataka
Cities Instead of city-slicking, go birding
ven as Bengaluru loses its acres to unchecked lake-bed flecked by thorny acacia trees. But it is still rewarding
real estate development, several green oases if you wish to meet sparrow-like oriental skylarks, rufous-
in the technopolis house a stunning avian backed shrikes and black drongos. Winter guests include blue-
population. Though the city’s major oxygen tailed bee-eaters, tawny eagles and short-eared owls.
E suppliers Lalbagh and Cubbon Park host a
number of species, venturing just outside the city offers prize THE VALLEY SCHOOL
sightings of glossy sunbirds or sprightly flycatchers. Here are Founded by the late philosopher Jiddu Krishnamurti, The AMITH NAG PHOTOGRAPHY/MOMENT/GETTY IMAGES
some birding haunts worth ditching the big-city swank for: Valley School is in a forested campus with wizened banyan
and mango trees peppering a rolling landscape, only a
HESARAGHATTA LAKE 24 kilometre/1 hour drive off Bengaluru’s Kanakpura main
About 30 kilometre/1 hour north of Bengaluru, Hesaraghatta road. No permission is needed to watch the resident sea blue
was once envisioned as the city’s freshwater solution. What verditer flycatchers, black-naped monarchs and the blue-
remains of the lake are swathes of grassland and a red-earth faced malkoha.
12 NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC TRAVELLER INDIA | DECEMBER 2019
INDIA
Reh
Festival,
ARUNACHAL PRADESH
Culture
Instead of Nagaland’s
Hornbill Festival
DANCE & MUSIC
Even within well-travelled circles,
northeast India continues to inspire
intrigue. A great showcase of the
region’s culture is Nagaland’s
popular Hornbill Festival; but a lesser
known, more local, counterpart is
the Reh festival in the neighbouring
state of Arunachal Pradesh. The
event is celebrated by the Idu
Mishmi community to encourage
communal living and inculcate the
joy of togetherness. According to the
tribe’s lore, they are the children of
the divine mother Nanyi Inyitaya, an
all-encompassing figurehead of their
belief system. The Reh festival is a
time when the Idu Mishmis can invoke
her blessings for their happiness and
prosperity. This celebration takes
place in the largest settlement of
the area, Roing, and in surrounding
villages. The six-day affair is packed
with local tradition, the festivities
HARSHIT S.R/SHUTTERSTOCK (BLUE BIRD), SRINIVASA Y/SHUTTERSTOCK (BROWN
BANNERGHATTA NATIONAL PARK full of scheduled sacrifices, feasts,
The handful of villages that border Bannerghatta National prayers, and dances. Igus, or priests,
Park in the southern suburbs of Bengaluru are rife with sit in sacred huts known as rekos,
endemic and migratory birds alike. Spurfowls, malkohas, which encircle fires, chanting prayers
doves, nightjars, cuckoos, storks, herons, pelicans, buzzards, as apong, a popular homemade rice
WILDLIFE vultures, eagles, falcons, owlets, hoopoes, woodpeckers, beer, flows freely amidst singing
barbets, bee-eaters and kingfishers, to name a few. and dancing. The festival offers a
Stopping for a breakfast at a roadside village tea-stall for glimpse into the customs of this
piping hot idlis and vadas doused in tangy sambar completes rarified slice of Arunachal Pradesh.
the experience. –Shikha Tripathi
HOW TO GO
HOW TO GO
BIRD), DEEPA MOHAN (BIRDERS) and Bird Watchers' Safe at 30 kilometre/1 hour away from the city’s industrial The Dibrugarh airport in Assam is
MUTHANALLUR LAKE
While the spots are
all at close driving
the closest airfield to the region, from
waste pits, Muthanallur is among the cleanest of Bengaluru’s
distance to the
which Roing is a 150 km/5 hr drive.
city, beginners can
lakes. A walk around the lake, hugged by wild shrubbery,
Make sure to keep your ILP (Inner Line
travel with groups
Permit) handy for inspection at the
is a meditative experience and offers a shot at spotting rare
such as Bngbirds
interstate border.
species such as the black baza and the peregrine falcon.
–Prathap Nair
Field Club.
DECEMBER 2019 | NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC TRAVELLER INDIA 13
INDIA TRIPS
HOW TO GO FINDING FENI &
Cazulo Feni Distillery is located in
Cuncolim, about 40 km/
1 hr from Goa International INLAND TREATS
Airport in Dabolim. Tours are by
appointment and cost `2,000 per
FOOD & DRINK person (cazulofeni.com). Instead of crowded parties and beach-hopping, get to
know the intimate ways of Goan life
CAZULO FENI DISTILLERY Go for: History, feni cocktails and Goan desserts
rips to Goa are usually filled with beaches inventive feni cocktails.
and fuelled by beer. To go deeper into the Outside, a local saxophonist hits melodious notes and a
sunshine state the next time round, turn to its buffet awaits visitors. “We always have pulao, xacuti and other
local beverage, feni, which was awarded a G.I. local dishes along with some speciality, so today we have an
T (Geographical Indication) tag in 2009. ambadi (hog plum) curry,” says Vaz. Chances are you’ll also get
“Cashew arrived in Goa from Brazil via Portuguese traders to try a glass of Patolyo, a coconut feni cocktail that channels
in the 16th century and we have been distilling feni since the Goan dessert, patolya (coconut and jaggery filled rice
then,” says Hansel Vaz, the second-generation owner of dumpling steamed in turmeric leaf). –Prachi Joshi
Cazulo Feni Distillery in South Goa. A tour of his distillery
reveals how most of the work is still done by hand using
traditional equipment. Expect detailed stories of the process,
and walking through what is believed to be the world’s first
feni cellar, with hundreds of garrafãoes: massive round-
bellied glass bottles used to store feni. “The oldest bottle here
is 350 years old,” smiles Vaz.
Now, for the real reason: feni tasting. Vaz offers small PHOTO COURTESY: CAZULO FENI DISTILLERY
pours accompanied by tasting notes. Both the cashew feni
and the coconut feni are double distilled and have smooth
flavours, minus the funky smell that you normally associate
with the fermented drink. The tasting also includes
14 NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC TRAVELLER INDIA | DECEMBER 2019
INDIA
SLICE OF
GOAN LIFE
Go for: Desolate isles and hanging with locals
few days in any place is hardly enough to get under its
skin, but there are tours that now help visitors leave
A Goa feeling like the ultimate insider. Hyperlocal outfit
The Local Beat is one such option. The group partners with
locals to provide insights into everyday Goan quirks, for
instance why do some homes have little roosters or soldiers
atop roofs as sentinels, or why do they have shell windows?
Leisurely village walks will take you into the rural
heartland. Explore the island of St. Estevam, famous for its
seven-ridged lady fingers. Then there is also Divar Island,
which houses an ancient cave, the remains of Saptakoteshwar
temple by the river, uncovering stories behind its quiet roads,
old homes and churches. Further south, indulge in a breezy
saunter by the Rachol seminary. If you are in a more spirited
frame of mind, try plucking coconuts and end your adventure
with a riverside barbeque. –Chryselle D’Silva Dias
HOW TO GO
For the Old Goa-St Estevam walk, travel to MG Circle Old Goa, a 13
km/20 min drive away from Panjim and 24 km/40 min from Dabolim
(www.facebook.com/pg/thelocalbeatgoa; prices from `1,500).
VILLAGE STAYS
Go for: Birdwatching and lush idling
f Goa had a Tinder profile, it would boast of being an
expert beer guzzler, a psy-trance enthusiast, and a
I complete beach bum. But go on a few dates and you’d
unravel the hinterlands of Goa, one that writes poetry by the
river, reads a book on a hammock in monsoon gardens, or goes
birding at sunrise. While Goa’s beaches are a tried-and-tested
crowd-puller, those seeking the susegad way of life are likely
to find it in its villages, away from the sun and sand. Lock
yourself away in Olaulim Backyards, a rustic property on the
TRAVEL INK/GALLO IMAGES/GETTY IMAGES (HOUSE), LLOYD VAS/SHUTTERSTOCK (MAN)
banks of the namesake river in the state’s north, for your first
taste of the ‘other’ Goa. Canoe your way to a mangrove forest,
channel the birder in you at the Salim Ali Bird Sanctuary, or
cycle through country roads past sleepy villages. A must-visit
is the buzzing Mapusa market, from where you can get your
stash of chorizos, hand-woven sarees, or antique handicrafts.
Crossing over to the south, lies the wee village of Curtorim,
also an apt base to familiarise yourself with inner Goa while
treating yourself to home-cooked Goan food. Arco Iris
Boutique Homestay, a 19th-century noble home in Curtorim,
can be an indulgent but rewarding base to park yourself as you
go exploring the Zuari river, lush paddy fields, seasonal lakes
and other quaint surprises that Goa 2.0 is bound to throw
at you. –Vikas Plakkot
HOW TO GO
Olaulim is 38 km/1 hr from Dabolim and 14 km/30 min from Panjim
(olaulimgoa.com; doubles from `6,000). Curtorim village is 51 km/1.5
hr away from Mapusa; Arco Iris Homestay is 29 km/45 min from
Dabolim and 41 km/1 hr from Panjim (arcoiris.in; doubles from `6,700).
DECEMBER 2019 | NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC TRAVELLER INDIA 15
INDIA TRIPS
YURUTSE, Ladakh Pancheshwar,
Adventure Instead of the Sham Valley and Chadar treks UTTARAKHAND
Adventure
Instead of rafting in Rishikesh
WATER
White water thrills in India are
synonymous with Rishikesh, the
country’s unofficial rafting capital. A
great alternative for rafters in search
of offbeat stretches—and a good
challenge—is Pancheshwar in eastern
Uttarakhand.
Trips kick-start at the confluence
of the mighty Kali river—named aptly
after the fierce goddess—and the
Saryu. Itineraries usually include a
three-day run stopping overnight in
the villages of Chuka and Parigaon,
and ending at the city of Tanakpur,
where the river is also known as
Sharda. The 70-kilometre stretch
opens up landscapes like in a film reel:
pristine valleys that have rarely been
explored, turbulent rapids, and vast,
H iking in Ladakh is a bucket list dream for most silent stretches of beaches where you
can camp out, should an overnight
adventure seekers, but many a journey ends up
breather under salt-and-star skies
at the popular Sham Valley and Chadar treks in
appeal. To top it all, rafters straddle
the summer and winter respectively.
Tread away from both, and head towards
through the Kali’s length on this trip.
MOUNTAIN Hemis National Park in the beautiful Markha Valley to hit the border between India and Nepal
Flanked by dense forests on either
the trail to Yurutse, far from the madding crowd. At 13,800 side, it has rapid grades progressing
feet, this one-home village (yes, only one) is an oasis of beauty from two to three and four over the
in the stark wilderness of snow leopard territory. With its days. It tapers to smaller rapids again
closest neighbours two hours away in the Rumbak village and towards the end as the river widens.
the closest motorable road 15 kilometres away, Yurutse is the The sumptuous solitude, barring army
phrase ‘back of beyond’ come to life. At this altitude, summers personnel and the odd traveller, means
are difficult and winters unforgiving. And yet, if you care to that once you taste an expedition on
look for it, you’ll find that life persists. Rigzin Dorje’s family the Kali, it is tough to go back to the
is the third generation to live in the traditional Ladakhi rapids (and crowds) of Rishikesh.
house, from where he works as a guide and farmer. Hikers –Shikha Tripathi
sometimes stop here en route the Markha valley trail, but in
HOW TO GO the winters, it is usually the odd, crazy hiker, a documentary HOW TO GO
From Delhi, take a train to Kathgodam
From Leh, drive filmmaker, or a wildlife photographer that strays here in and then hire a taxi to Pancheshwar; JULIEN GARCIA/AGEFOTOSTOCK/DINODIA PHOTO LIBRARY
over an hour to search of the snow leopard. Whoever attempts the trail must you can split the 12-hr journey with an
Jingchen to begin possess an adequate level of fitness and respect the alien overnight stop near Kathgodam. Being
the 15-km hike to terrain. Those who make it to Yurutse, floating in a sea of a river on the border, rafting on the Kali
Yurutse, with an majestic, rugged mountains, will leave with the image of this requires special permits that should be
overnight stop pre-arranged by your agent.
at a Rumbak refuge that stands tall like hope, like a lighthouse on a distant
homestay. island. –Shikha Tripathi
16 NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC TRAVELLER INDIA | DECEMBER 2019
INDIA TRIPS
Narora, UTTAR PRADESH
Nature
Instead of dolphin- and skimmer-watching in Chambal
While Chambal boasts great chances of spotting
Gangetic river dolphins, lesser-known places
such as Narora, near Delhi, offer a more up-close
experience with the creature. Hire a motor-
powered country boat at Narora. The ride along
the Ganga is fulfilling for birders, especially if they
WILDLIFE
are on the hunt for Indian skimmers—a beautiful
bird that skims the surface of water to feed vis-à-vis its long, low
bill. Said beak goes from fiery orange at its start to bright yellow
at the tip, a visual treat.
Resident river dolphins here also come with an abnormal and
intriguing snout, almost like one took the thin, teethy mouth of
a gharial and stapled it on the front of a porpoise. Even stranger
is that these types of dolphins are actually blind, and use their
incredible sense of sound to hunt freshwater fish.
While catching sight of these two unique denizens make a great
day out in Narora, wildlife lovers should keep a keen eye out for
endangered black-bellied terns, muggers, great thick-knees, river
terns, pied kingfishers, and turtles basking on exposed rocks and
sandbanks. –Sutirtha Lahiri
HOW TO GO
Narora is a 200 km/4 hr drive southeast of Delhi.
Pobitora Wildlife Sanctuary, ASSAM
Nature Instead of rhino-watching in Kaziranga National Park
Pobitora Wildlife Sanctuary in Assam’s Morigaon
district boasts the highest density of rhinos in
the world. This small, protected area brimming
with wildlife offers a more accessible outdoor
adventure than other popular Assamese
WILDLIFE sancturies such as Kaziranga, with a greater
chance of spotting the endangered rhinoceros
unicornis, the one-horned Indian rhino. The author himself has
seen a staggering total of five one-horned rhinoceros from the
main road right next to the park in 2015.
A safari through the wildlife park, which offers a closer gander
at the creature, may also yield sightings of wild boars, leopard
cats, and pangolins. Pobitora also abounds with lakes full of
migratory birds, from lesser adjutant storks and open-bill storks
to pintails, northern lapwings, and Eurasian coots. Stork-billed, DINODIA PHOTO/DINODIA PHOTO LIBRARY (BIRD), DHRITIMAN MUKHERJEE (RHINO)
common and white-throated kingfishers can be spotted near
water bodies. Though, perhaps, the luckiest birder will spot
falcated ducks or baikal teals bathing in the park’s many beels
(lakes). –Sutirtha Lahiri
HOW TO GO
Pobitora Wildlife Sanctuary is a convenient 50 km/2 hr drive
northeast of Guwahati. Although the sanctuary offers a few
accommodation options near the grasslands, be sure to book the
safaris and stay well in advance as they fill up fast.
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OMKARESHWAR, Madhya Pradesh
Culture Instead of Varanasi
mkareshwar, some say, could Marathas, who built many temples. A parikrama
pass off as “Little Varanasi”, at of the island will expose you to the ruins of
least in vibe, if not scale: Think some of these 11th-century temples, medieval
temple town, spiritual bliss, sacred fortifications, hidden villages and ashrams. Start
O river, lively ghats. An Om-shaped early to beat the mid-afternoon heat and by early
HERITAGE settlement by the Narmada, Omkareshwar is evening, set out for the hilltop Mandhata Palace,
also a site for one of the 12 jyotirlinga shrines or Omkareshwar Palace. Built by the Holkars,
in India, its streets crammed with colourful its Durbar hall is Instagram-worthy, so is the
HOW TO GO shops selling religious curios, kitschy idols aerial view of the main town from the palace’s
The nearest airport in and devotional CDs. To cross the river island, balcony. Best way to cool off? Definitely by the
Indore is 84 km/2 hr.
Omkareshwar has its pilgrims usually tread the 270-foot-high ghat; a quiet moment or two on the rocks, taking
own railway station suspension bridge (Omkareshwar Setu) on foot in the shimmering waters. Pro tip: Madhya
about 12 km from the or hire a boat for a leisurely ride. Evening aartis, Pradesh Tourism Board’s Narmada Retreat offers
city centre. The train basic but popular, complete the Varanasi charm, intimate views of the river and the main temple. FABIO LAMANNA/SHUTTERSTOCK
route is well-connected although Mahashivratri is when festivities peak. As for the hypnotic tintinnabulation of temple
with Khandwa, which
links to major metros Historically the region has been ruled by bells, that’s your sweet upgrade.
and some big cities. the Malwas, Chauhans and later on by the —Edwina D’souza
20 NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC TRAVELLER INDIA | DECEMBER 2019
INDIA
MAHESHWAR, Madhya Pradesh
Culture Instead of Varanasi
n both look and feel, Maheshwar, a tiny gave Maheshwar many temples, but most of all
town to Indore’s south, evokes Varanasi the beautiful textile Maheshwari, spun by expert
vibes. Some even call it the “Varanasi weavers brought in from Surat, Varanasi and
of Central India”—a grand comparison Chennai to weave saris for the royal household
I it shoulders rather well. Ghats here too and as gifts for the Peshwas and visiting
HERITAGE reverberate with bhajans, brought alive by dignitaries. Even today the clacking of wooden
meditating yogis, half-naked sadhus and women looms echoes in the weavers’ colonies, as artistes,
engrossed in everyday stuff… bathing in the both men and women, sit creating poetry in
HOW TO GO Narmada, washing clothes, chit-chatting. colour. To explore the craft further, a visit to
Indore, well-connected Imposing from behind the ghats is the fort Rehwa Society, an NGO founded by the Holkars,
by air, road and rail,
is the best touchpoint of Ahilyabai Holkar, parts of it now a hotel. The is ideal. Evening dose? Row away to Baneshwar
for the journey. From 18th-century, Malwa-Maratha queen moved temple; it’s the perfect prescription. But be right
Indore’s airport the dynasty’s capital from Maharashtra to back by the ghat before sunset, for that’s when
and railway station,
DEEPTI ASTHANA 90 km/2 hr, a distance especially in the Rajwada, a two-storey wooden air incensed with freshly lit sticks of jasmine and
Maheshwar—and her imprint here is indelible,
Narmada dazzles in a sea of flickering diyas, the
Maheshwar is about
rose, bundles and bundles of them.
structure typical of a Marathi wada (traditional
you can cover either
–Deepti Asthana
home). A devout Shiva worshipper, Ahilyabai also
in a taxi or by bus.
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Pichavaram, TAMIL NADU
Nature Instead of the Sunderbans
Follow the coastline south from the Sundarbans
and you’ll find yourself at another sprawling,
albeit little-known, mangrove forest by the
Bay of Bengal. Spread across 1,100 hectares,
Pichavaram in Tamil Nadu is among the world’s
largest mangrove forests. A maze of creeks
FOREST
connects the Vellar and Coleroon estuaries, and
in this watery labyrinth lie 51 islets covered in mangrove forest.
Glide along this biodiverse haven in a motorboat or rowboat,
exploring vast expanses of water and slender channels less than
five feet across. All along the shore, aerial roots poke solemnly
out of the muddy banks, like needles with watchful eyes. The
landscape is primeval, with the trees forming a low, dense canopy
overhead, the vegetation closing in on both sides, and sunlight
fighting to filter through the trees. One has to bend low to avoid
the branches and peer deep into the foliage to spot signs of life. MALAVIKA BHATTACHARYA (MANGROVE), EPHOTOCORP/ISTOCK/GETTY IMAGES (TEMPLE)
Both aquatic and avian life thrives in this unique ecosystem.
Cormorants, egrets, and brilliant blue kingfishers fly overhead.
On the muddy banks, crabs scuttle between the tangle of roots.
Mullets and shrimp dart around in the water. You are entirely
alone in this watery wilderness, with only the diverse residents of
the reserve forest for company. –Malavika Bhattacharya
HOW TO GO
Pichavaram is a 101 km/2.5 hr drive south of Puducherry.
Delwara, RAJASTHAN
Culture Instead of Udaipur
It is not the romantic getaway Udaipur promises
to be, but in Delwara, only 26 kilometres from
the touristy din, time seems to stop just enough
to deliver a true Mewar experience. In the heart
of the village, snuggled between the Aravallis, is
HERITAGE the Devigarh Palace, a gift from Maharana Pratap
of Mewar to Rajrana Sajja Singh and his brother
following the battle of Haldighati in 1576 (the battlefield is about
an hour away). Now a luxury hotel, special tours can be organised
on request for visitors, or better still, you can visit the lavish
Darbar Courtyard bar and restaurant where dining is a royal affair.
The palace, the 19th-century Indra Kund (stepwell), Hunting
Tower, and Nagda Temple—a complex of abandoned temples
built by a lake forest—that dot the vicinity, all tell tales of an
old world. In contrast stands Eklingji. The 1,000-year-old Shiva
temple, home to the relic of the four-faced Shiva, also known as
the Raja of the Mewar dynasty, is still visited every Monday by the
ruling Maharana. It offers a peek into the life that has evolved and
continues to thrive in this village of a big dynasty. –Stuti Agarwal
HOW TO GO
The village of Delwara is 26 km/30 min from Udaipur, which has its
own airport and railway station. Once in Udaipur, you can hire a private
taxi or opt for the bus/shared taxi services that ply to Delwara at
regular intervals from different points in the city.
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INDIA TRIPS
Kasargod,
KERALA
Nature
Instead of Alleppey
WATER
Houseboat cruises along Kerala’s palm-
frocked, mirror-like backwaters hold
an iconic status among travellers. While
the backwaters of Alleppey (Alappuzha)
in South Kerala has been the much-
loved poster boy, nobody likes a dreamy
afternoon interrupted by honking boats.
What the Valiyaparamba backwaters
of Kasargod in North Kerala instead
offers is unperturbed vistas and a traffic-
free ride.
Hop aboard Bekal Ripples, the region’s
premium houseboat, and snake through
the sleepy backwaters past islands of
coconut trees while gorging on delicious
Moplah cuisine. The rich heritage of the
Mappila Muslim community translates on
plate as spice-rich dishes such as mand
and alissa, and desserts like kalathappam
and ada. An overnight cruise also
presents the opportunity to be docked in
the middle of the water, unlike in Alleppey
where boats come closer to the shore.
This part of Kerala is widely renowned
for its mussels and oyster preparations,
whose farming can be seen first-hand.
Beyond its meditative waters, immerse
yourself in the unique culture of the
Malabar region, none more alluring than
a ritualistic Theyyam performance, a
mélange of dance, music, and mime. In
the vicinity lies the colossal Bekal Fort,
whose unique location—towering over the
Arabian Sea and surrounded by a spotless
beach—makes for clutter-free photo ops.
–Vikas Plakkot
HOW TO GO
Kasargod is best accessed via Mangalore,
connected by train and flight to major Indian
cities. Cabs (52 km/1.5 hr) can be hired from NEIL MCALLISTER/PHOTOLIBRARY/GETTY IMAGES
both stops. Options of stay are in plenty,
with Taj Bekal Resort Neeleshwar Hermitage
offering unbridled luxury. Tyndis Heritage, a
boutique travel operator, is among the many
that can curate a trip of this character to this
idyllic location.
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INDIA TRIPS
MUNROE ISLAND, Kerala
Nature Instead of Alleppey
rifting down the backwaters of little boat parked outside, and the few odd pan-
Alleppey, on a charming, often beedi shops.
luxurious, houseboat, remains the There are a few roads and bridges connecting
quintessential Kerala experience. But some villages but most of Munroe is still navigable
D if you are looking for something more only by boat, creating an experience far more
WATER offbeat, more Indiana Jonesesque, then pack for intimate as compared to the more touristy
the narrow lagoons of Munroe Island. A cluster of Alleppey with its wider canals and large, motorised
HOW TO GO eight tiny islets interconnected by a web of narrow boats. In Munroe, on the other hand, somewhere
Munroe is 79 km/
2 hr drive, and a canals in the forested backwaters of Ashtamudi between gliding along channels shaded by thick
short boat ride Lake, Munroe Island, to some extent, evokes scenes mangroves and palms, barely wide enough for two
from Thiruvanan- from the Sunderbans, as brought to life in the pages barges to pass, tuning into the calls of the Malabar
thapuram. Board of Amitav Ghosh’s The Hungry Tide. There are of trogon, trying to spot water snakes stir beneath
at Perumon ferry course no man-eating tigers here, only waterways jalebi-like ripples, you get the feel of the famed
point, about 12 HOSHNER REPORTER
km from Kollam, flanked by coconut and pepper plantations, prawn Kerala backwaters—minus the commercialised
the nearest town. farms, cheerfully painted homes, each with a chaos. –Hoshner Reporter
26 NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC TRAVELLER INDIA | DECEMBER 2019
Nongriat, MEGHALAYA
Nature Instead of Cherrapunji
An hour’s drive from the ever-popular Cherrapunji
and a 3,500-step descent into the forests of
the east Khasi hills lies Nongriat, home to the
largest double-decker living root-bridge in the
world. Woven by the Khasi community through
MOUNTAIN an intertwining of aerial roots of rubber fig trees
from either side of a stream, these ‘living’ bridges
have taken over a century to get to the state they are in now, and
they are ever growing. Photo ops are aplenty in the Tolkienesque
landscape, although you’d do good to set the camera aside. With
the pictoral Rainbow Falls lying slightly ahead of the root bridge,
the trek into the forest is doubly rewarding. You will pass through
tiny hamlets where locals offer fresh local lemonade and
homemade ice cream to keep spirits up, scrambling now and
then over some spectacular hanging bridges above turbulent
tributaries of the Umiam river. Filled with water mist and the song
of cicadas, Nongriat is best experienced in peak monsoon.
–Sambit Dattachaudhari
HOW TO GO
Nongriat is best accessed via Shillong, connected by train and flight to
major Indian cities. From Shillong’s Police Bazar, take a cab to Tyrna
(65 km/2.5 hr), the closest motorable point to Nongriat. Local guides
available at Tyrna will take you on a 3,500-step pathway downhill, all
Mawlyngbna, the way to Nongriat and back.
MEGHALAYA
Adventure Instead of Cherrapunji
Two hours from Sohra, or Cherrapunji, that
hero of geography textbooks, lies Mawlyngbna,
a scenic, three-village cluster that’s stealing
Cherrapunji’s thunder, bit by bit. A part of the
Mawsynram region, crowned the wettest place on
FOREST Earth by Guinness in 2015, Mawlyngbna is more
of a plateau, while Cherrapunji is mostly dense
forests and deep valleys. Topography-wise, Mawlyngbna’s natural
potholes (picture micro-mini pools) are decidedly photogenic. In
and around the beautiful Umkhakoi reservoir, you can go kayaking
and zip lining, or venture a little further for canyoning, or to jump
off cliff faces. Then rappel down a 100-foot-deep gorge, sliding in
between two giant rocks—an attraction aptly called Split Rock.
Once underwater, Mawlyngbna also hides fossils within its
folds, some over 450 million years old. Trust a young Khasi guide
to point you to star fish imprints along the beautiful, two-hour-
long Lew Luri Lura plateau trek that ends with a visit to a pitcher
plant garden. But the real highlight in here is an “animal market,”
a flatland inundated with what look like animal footprints. Legend
goes, the market is from a time when animals talked. Trading and
frolicking here, this was their adda of sorts. –Hoshner Reporter
HOW TO GO
From Guwahati airport, Mawlyngbna is a 172 km/5 hr taxi ride. Stay
options at Mawlyngbna include the local council-run Traveller’s Nest,
which also offers guides, compulsory for all activities.
28 NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC TRAVELLER INDIA | DECEMBER 2019
Pamban Island,
TAMIL NADU
Nature Instead of Andaman and Nicobar Islands
Want to cash in on aquamarine waters without
coughing up the big bucks for, let’s say, the
Andamans? Pamban is your place. Located in
the ecologically rich Gulf of Mannar, it’s lush with
coconut tree-lined beaches and crystal-clear
LOW-COST waters. On Pamban's menu are kitesurfing,
snorkelling, diving, kayaking and windsurfing.
Gorge on fresh seafood, and explore all that abounds its surface
and the (marine) life below… pearl oyster, sea horse, barracuda.
Take a day to explore the bustling, 17th-century Rameswaram
Temple. Said to have the longest corridors in the world, it flaunts
a thousand ornate pillars; a rewarding visit even for the non- HOSHNER REPORTER (MEGHALYA), SAMBIT DATTACHAUDHARI (NONGRIAT), HOSHNER REPORTER (PAMBAN)
religious. The temple town itself teems with crumbling old wooden
homes rich in character, and stellar vegetarian thalis. Don’t leave
without a darshan of Dhanushkodi. Perched on Pamban’s tip, only
a strait away from Sri Lanka, it’s a ghost village (the settlement
was wiped out overnight by a cyclone in 1964). Today, other than
a few forlorn structures and cerulean waters, what Dhanushkodi
offers is a satisfying sense of seclusion. –Hoshner Reporter
HOW TO GO
From Chennai trains ply to Pamban via the century-old rail bridge, the
longest sea bridge until Mumbai's Bandra Worli Sea Link came up. You
can also fly to Madurai from where Pamban is 170 km/3 hr drive away.
DECEMBER 2019 | NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC TRAVELLER INDIA 29
INDIA TRIPS
LEH, Ladakh
Culture Instead of following the usual tourist route, watch a game of ice hockey
n the shadow of the Himalayas and team now known as Delhi Bulls. India too has its
flag-festooned monasteries that teeter own National Ice Hockey teams for both
on mountain ridges, a tense game of ice men and women, and with the country’s only
hockey unfolds; in Leh, 11,500 feet above artificial ice rink that meets international
I sea level in the Union Territory of Ladakh, standards remaining closed in Dehradun,
MOUNTAIN ice hockey is more than just a game—it’s a Karzoo Zing has also long been the practice
cultural gathering. grounds for these athletes. It is heartwarming
From the first snowfall in December to to visit the practice grounds of the all-Ladakhi
springtime in March, foreign and local players National Women’s Ice Hockey Team, who, using
skim the frozen Karzoo Zing, a pond that borrowed equipment, created history when
becomes a natural ice rink. they won two matches at the IIHF Challenge
The sight of Ladakhis skillfully zipping over Cup of Asia held in Bangkok, Thailand in 2017.
ice while brandishing hockey sticks at a bone- Typically, scheduled games last 45 minutes with
chilling -18 °C is not a new one. The Ladakh a 15-minute cinnamon tea break before the next
Winter Sports Club (LWSC) has been hosting two competing teams take the ice. Spectators
tournaments since 1995. Moreover, the Canadian sit on tiered stands (entry is free) while some of
High Commission in New Delhi supported the more enthusiastic supporters perch on tree
HOW TO GO the LWSC’s efforts with the Indo-Canadian branches for a better view!
While Delhi has Friendship Ice Hockey Cup in 2001 and had its Ice hockey played against the stunning
direct daily flights own team—New Delhi Sacred Bulls—participate backdrop of the Himalayas and in the rarefied
to Leh, all flights in the tourney. Participation in the event has air and lunar landscape of Ladakh is unlike any GUSTASP AND JEROO IRANI
from Mumbai
involve a layover in become a part of the High Commission’s annual other tournament in the world.
the capital. calendar, and this will be the 18th year for its –Gustasp and Jeroo Irani
INDIA TRIPS
CUTTACK, Odisha
Cities Instead of familiar tastes, a rising food hub
alking past the many colonial-era
buildings, dargahs, temples and fort ruins
in Cuttack, a 1,000-year-old city, one can
see its history, the diversity of which is
W reflected in its platters.
Cuttack on a plate is dahibara aloodum (`40). A soulful
dish made by combining vadas soaked in buttermilk, aloo
dum and ghuguni (yellow pea curry), topped with a generous
sprinkle of sev, chopped onions and a special jeera-and-dried-
red-chili powder, this is a dish Cuttakis swear by. Purists
stand by the one made by Raghu Behera, an 85-year-old
vendor in Bidanasi.
To get a pulse of the city, head to its many tea stalls, or
khattis. Whether at Munu Bhai Cha near Barabati Stadium,
famed for his slow-boiled, reduced tea, or a steaming cup from
Padma Shri awardee Mr. Rao’s stall near Samaj Office, tea is
essential. Savour your cuppa with a plate of peeajis (`5 for 10
pieces), available near all tea stalls. What a vada is to South
India, peeaji is to Cuttack. These deep-fried dumplings are
made from a paste of soaked Bengal gram, and tempered with
spices and chopped onions.
For more traditional street food, head to pure-vegetarian
Dama’s in Buxi Bazaar to eat the best raj kachori and sweets.
Social media star Annapurna Devi, an octogenarian fondly
known as “Chakuli Mausi,” serves steamed chakuli (Odiya
pancakes, `10 for two), served with a fiery red homemade
chutney from her house in Choudhury Bazaar. A must-eat at
Jyoti Mixture at Bajrakabati is Baro Moja (`80/kg) literally
meaning 12 fun things, made by mixing 12 or more items like
bhujia, ganthia, peanuts, fried masala cornflakes and more.
At Royal Fast Food in Buxi Bazaar, try the local favourite
Cuttack roll (`50); an egg roll made with a thin refined wheat
flour roti and stuffed with spicy minced chicken and onions.
Cuttack also has its own distinctive style of biryani, made
in the dum style using alu bukhara (prunes) and khoya
(reduced milk solids). DFC Biryani next to YMCA serves the
best mutton biryani (`150) the city has to offer. The British
left their mark on Cuttack’s culinary landscape in the form of
mutton chop (`10), the best version of which is found in the
170-year-old Cuttack Club, a member’s only club, or at Kalia
Chop in Professorpada. The Chinese settlers also flourished
here; Honk Kong in Buxi Bazaar is one of the last original
Chinese family-run joints serving delicious hakka noodles,
prawn golden coin and garlic chicken cooked over a traditional
coal stove. Need a digestive? A hole-in-the-wall shop at Naya
Sarak serves a classic masala cold drink (`35), made with a
blend of secret (naturally!) masala. –Rachit Kirteeman
HOW TO GO
There are direct flights from all major Indian
cities to Bhubaneswar. Cuttack is a 30 km/1 hr
drive from there. The easiest way to navigate
Cuttack is on a two-wheeler. Rickshaws are
aplenty, and bike services like Rapido are good to
FOOD & DRINK keep handy.
32 NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC TRAVELLER INDIA | DECEMBER 2019
INDIA
Guwahati, ASSAM
Cities
Instead of temple hopping, taste all of north east
in one city
FOOD & DRINK
An ideal sightseeing tour of Guwahati is about eating—
punctuated by occasional visits to temples and museums.
So after checking out the rhinoceros in the city zoo, head to
the nearby Upper Assam speciality restaurant Khorikaa (GS
Road). There are no rhino steaks on the menu, but plenty of
other unusual non-veg such as duck and pigeon. Unlike Lower
Assam cuisine which is related to Bengali cookery, this feels
more far eastern, with subtler flavours. Try the chunky pork
slow-cooked in a hollow bamboo tube known as bahor sunga
(`230) or pan-fried lean duck (`210).
There are interesting vegetarian options too, often cooked
with medicinal herbs, like banana flower fry and brinjal
pitika (eggplant mash). Tribal cuisine is generally known to
be wholesome and the menu contains advice such as: ‘The
food you eat can be either the safest and most powerful
form of medicine or the slowest form of poison.’ Besides,
the unfamiliar names make eating as exciting as a safari in
an exotic kitchen. Not up for the gamble? Share a communal
table and let yourself be guided by friendly locals.
Another feast to die for is served up at Mising Kitchen
(Hengrabari Road) which specialises in the cuisine of the
Mising tribe who are a river-dwelling people, so the thing to
order is a fish thali (`380) which, apart from several kinds
of veggies, leafy-fry and dals, comes with three types of
Brahmaputra fish: ari curry with sour elephant apple slices,
tribal style mashed fish, and fried small fishes. Here too
flavours are delicate but with a hint of mustard and chilli sting.
Since Guwahati is the hub of the northeast, plenty of other
restaurants like Gam’s Delicacy and Naga Food Konspiracy—
not to mention the pioneering Paradise that kicked off the
regional food trend years ago—focus on various rare cuisines,
so this is the perfect place to taste the entire northeast
without having to travel much! For the less adventurous,
Guwahati promises mean street grubs like momos and
chowmeins, and a host of very chill cafes.
Bonus tip: For night-time fun, head to the rock club Café
Hendrix (GS Road) to watch Assamese bands perform. They
also serve wonderful snacks like pork roast, and yes, this is
one of those bars where single women might enjoy an evening
out. –Zac O’Yeah
HOW TO GO
There are direct flights from Delhi and Mumbai to Guwahati. The RACHIT KIRTEEMAN
old city is walkable, and rickshaws ply regularly between spots.
DECEMBER 2019 | NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC TRAVELLER INDIA 33
INDIA TRIPS
KHURI, Rajasthan
Nature Instead of Sam Sand Dunes, Jaisalmer
ifty kilometres from the golden city At night, the golden sands of the Thar become
of Jaisalmer, the desert sky blazes the cot and starry skies the ceiling. Unless you
all day, metamorphosing into a want to pass on the chance to see the Milky
gleaming planetarium by the night. Way up close, it is advisable to carry along a
F Welcome to the village of Khuri. telescope or to download a stargazing app like
DESERT While travellers seeking the great unknown SkyView Free.
in Rajasthan are often drawn towards the The experience can be organised through
popular Sam Sand Dunes—suited for those Badal House, a homestay run by loquacious local
HOW TO GO seeking creature comforts within tailored Badal Singh Ji and his family. Slow travellers
Khuri is best experience—Khuri revels in authenticity and would appreciate spending a few leisurely
accessed via Jaisalmer freedom from overtourism. nights at Badal Ji’s beautiful clay-walled hut,
(50 km/1 hr), connected Embark on a long excursion into the desert being treated to the unforgettable Rajasthani
by train and flight to where the evenings are spent sliding down hospitality. The excursion is priced at a modest BHAVPREET GHAI/SHUTTERSTOCK
major Indian cities. dunes, chasing a summer-popsicle sun, `1,000 per person, including meals, and is best
Cabs can be hired from
both the airport and the humming along to folk tunes, and cooking a undertaken between November and March.
railway station. barebones-yet-delicious meal with your guide. –Vikas Plakkot
34 NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC TRAVELLER INDIA | DECEMBER 2019
INDIA TRIPS
Se La, ARUNACHAL PRADESH
Nature Instead of Khardung La and Rohtang La
Compared to oft-tramped passes like Khardung
La and Rohtang La, Se La means few visitors and
stunning views. Perched at 13,700 feet, it carries
National Highway 13 that connects Tawang in
Arunachal Pradesh to the country, and is
MOUNTAIN surrounded by snow-capped peaks of the Eastern
Himalayas. The pass also cradles Se La Lake,
locally known as Paradise Lake, which is one of the 101 lakes in the
region—all sacred to Tibetan Buddhists in the area.
Grazing season brings cuddly yaks to Se La, but that isn’t the
only reason to visit. Travellers who take the time are rewarded
with regular sightings of the pheasant, partridge, Himalayan
monal and the Tibetan blackbird. The pass is open throughout
the year, unless the region receives heavy snowfall and landslides
render movement impossible. Standing at Se La’s formidable
altitude, in this less-trodden part of the Himalayas offers, amongst NITISH WAILA/SHUTTERSTOCK (LANDSCAPE), ANIRUD/SHUTTERSTOCK (MONUMENT)
other things, a sense of human insignificance and fragility.
Perhaps a common mountain epiphany, but best processed over
mesmeric views of Se La, we say. –Paloma Dutta
HOW TO GO
Se La lies at a convenient 80 km/3 hr drive southeast of Tawang.
Salonibari Airport in Tezpur is the closest domestic airport to
the pass, about 250 km/8 hr away, and is well-connected to Kolkata
and Guwahati.
Morena, MADHYA PRADESH
Culture Instead of the Khajuraho group of monuments
The temples of Morena are worth visiting to see
structures that are believed to have inspired the
design of the Indian Parliament; some predating
the temples in Khajuraho.
The 500-foot-tall Kakanmath temple stands
HERITAGE amidst the village farmlands of Sihoniya. Its
pyramid-like shikhara of the main temple—with
stones stacked without a cementing agent, balanced on the
pillared base—is an engineering marvel. Around 25 kilometres
south sits the 10th-century Shiva temple of Padavali. Ornate
three-dimensional friezes of sculptures of Brahma, Shiva, Vishnu
and his incarnations adorn the temple's gateway and interiors.
Northeast of Padavali village lie the ruins of the 25-acre
Bateshwar temple complex. It comprises remains of nearly 200
intricately carved sandstone temples, gateways and baolis built
between the sixth and ninth centuries A.D.
The 11th-century building of the neighbouring Chausath Yogini
temple at Mitavli closely resembles the Indian Parliament building.
Its position atop a hillock made it significant for imparting
astrological and mathematical knowledge. –Paloma Dutta
HOW TO GO
A day trip by road from Gwalior easily covers all the temples.
Kakanmath temple (52 km/1.5 hr north) is the farthest from the
airport, and the other temples are short drives from it.
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5 SUSTAINABLE FINDS
Conservation walks, zero-waste trails and community living, these
experiences allow for responsible, planet-friendly travel
FOREST
SADHANA
BAGHROL BASA, West Bengal
FOREST,
Auroville, Puducherry
Go for: A humbling experience
of living in a commune
Volunteering at Sadhana Forest,
an NGO devoted to reforestation
and food security, is a revelatory
experience. From staying in eco-
friendly dorms to helping reforest
its 70-acre land with indigenous
species, Sadhana Forest is an
alternative way of life. This is no
eco-resort; it is a community that
is committed to bettering the world
through its sustainable choices. The
whole area is powered using solar
energy, everything from food scraps
to firewood ash is recycled, and the
bio-toilet is an experience in itself.
When you stay at Sadhana Forest,
you contribute to its nourishment
Go for: Fishing Village life in Kalbansh, in West Bengal’s Howrah district, through sevas—tending to trees in
cats, on-site is shaped by the waters of the Damodar floodplains. The its wilderness, cooking for other
farmlands here are fertile and freshwater fish such as rohu are
freshwater bred in local ponds. In the last decade or so, discovery of melanin volunteers, working in the zero-
ponds, a garden jackals, water monitor lizards, jungle cats and the rare chestnut- waste hut, brushing the cows in
the gowshala, serving herbal tea in
full of flowers capped babbler in and around Kalbansh has been piquing the the Chai Station are among a host
and butterflies interest of some wildlife enthusiasts. However, it wasn’t until an of activities you can choose from
endangered fishing cat was spotted in 2015 that a conservation as your seva. In return, Sadhana
project was set in motion and the region came into its own as Forest will welcome you with open
a biodiversity hotspot. Baghrol Basa—A Fishing Cat Heritage arms. There is no discrimination—all
Homestay was born out of this. species, from foliage and humans
In Bengali, Baghrol Basa means a fishing cat’s nest—essentially to crawlies are loved here. You can
a 17th-century building that’s been restored into a functional discover the thrill of dips in the
heritage property, a collaborative effort between villagers and mudpool instead of hotel showers,
a group of fishing cat enthusiasts. On the face of it the boutique experience vegan communal meals
stay looks like a clay house, but is equipped with modern facilities. instead of restaurant food, read
at the library, practise yoga and
Guests can opt for angling, a tour of the village, or a night safari in meditation, wander in the forest, or
a battery-operated e-rickshaw to (potentially) spot fishing cats. simply do nothing. –Aashika Suresh
Other highlights include four on-site freshwater ponds, an organic
garden, a butterfly garden, and a museum rich in its display HOW TO GO
of maps showcasing the region's wildlife species. The revenue From Puducherry, take an auto to
generated from the homestay is pumped into the Fishing Cat Sadhana Forest, or get in touch with
Conservation Project. What do you get? The satisfaction of having the community in advance to request
travelled responsibly—and Bengali food typical to floodplains in a pickup. A minimum volunteering
commitment is required: Two nights
this part of India. for Indians and 2-4 weeks for foreign DHRITIMAN MUKHERJEE
nationals. Food is `600/day, subject to
HOW TO GO Baghrol Basa (baghrolbasa.com) is in Howrah, about change. Write to india@sadhanaforest.
50 km/2 hr from Kolkata. `19,000 for a minimum stay of three nights. org, or call +91 413 2677683.
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BELUN ECO VILLAGE,
West Bengal
Go for: A taste of village life, lessons in wildlife conservation
Children playing football in the rain, cows tailing shepherds, fishermen
haggling in the local market: Life in West Bengal’s Belun village is
untouched. And a few nights at the Belun Eco Village is perfect to
sample this simple living, rooted in conscious travel. Owned by wildlife
conservationist and filmmaker Tanmoy Ghosh, the sustainable stay is run
in collaboration with villagers who are committed to conserve the wildlife
in their region. Besides guided night trails to spot civets, foxes and owls,
and nature and wildlife photography workshops, you can also participate
in ongoing campaigns like the conservation of the Gangetic biodiversity.
HOW TO GO Close to Katwa, Belun Eco Village (www.belunecovillage.com,
doubles from `7,000) is 175 km/4.5 hr from Kolkata.
MISHMI HILLS CAMP,
Arunachal Pradesh
Go for: Lush nature walks and rare sightings
Deep in the Roing forest lies Mishmi Hills Camp. The eco-lodge's idyllic
vibe belies the journey of its owner, Jibi Pulu, who grew up in the staunch
Mishmi hunting community of east Arunachal’s Dibang valley.
He runs the traditional Mishmi Hills Camp with the help of local youth.
Its four stilt cottages are built using wood, bamboo and thatch. Pulu’s
nature walks open up the region’s rare biodiversity to visitors, from the
endemic Mishmi wren babbler, to the Hoolock gibbon, India's only ape
species. Hear stories about Idu culture over the evening bonfire, or sip
local rice beer—every moment spent at this camp is a step closer to
supporting the conservationist’s vision for the region. –Shikha Tripathi
HOW TO GO Fly to Dibrugarh in Assam and drive to Roing (150 km/4 hr).
Write to pulujb@gmail.com to book ahead.
DOLPHIN-WATCHING,
PHOTO COURTESY: CHRISTINA FERNANDES/TERRA CONSCIOUS (BOAT) DHRITIMAN MUKHERJEE (AERIAL VIEW), FLPA/KEITH RUSHFORTH/DINODIA PHOTO LIBRARY (COTTAGE), The Konkan coast is home to the Indian Ocean Humpback dolphin. The
Goa
Go for: An ethical tour which doesn’t chase the mammals
local dolphin-watching industry, with over 400 boat tours operating in
North Goa’s Sinquerim bay, has caused a change in their travel routes.
To watch them responsibly, head out to the Arabian Sea with ethical
dolphin-watching tour Terra Conscious. It is led by a conservationist and
follows international guidelines. Unlike other marine wildlife tours, Terra
Conscious doesn’t chase the dolphins. Once in the ocean, boat engines
are switched off or put in neutral. The safari functions on ‘dolphin time’—
in short, no loud music and guests being encouraged to enjoy sightings
of seagulls and brahminy kites in serene silence. –Chryselle D’Silva Dias
HOW TO GO Sinquerim Beach is 12 km/30 min from Panjim (www.
terraconscious.com; `2,000 per head for a 2.5-hr safari, including a guide).
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TABO, Himachal Pradesh Diglipur,
Nature Instead of Kaza, Spiti ANDAMAN AND
NICOBAR ISLANDS
Adventure
Instead of Havelock Island
BEACH
Diglipur in northern Andaman is
blissfully underexposed—so far. Plans
for an airport are underway. So go
before the world does, and if you do,
expect top-notch natural wonders.
The twin islands of Ross and Smith,
separated by a svelte sandbar, are
Diglipur’s biggest draw. Cover the
sandbar on foot, pausing for a swim or
some sea-watching. Plan your hours
well, authorities only permit three.
A hike inside the Saddle Peak
National Park takes you to the highest
point in the Andaman and Nicobar
Islands at 2,400 feet. Kalpong,
Andaman’s only river, flows through
this forest. On the park’s foothill,
Lamiya Bay Beach is perfect for
idling. The nearby Kalipur Beach is
a turtle nesting ground, claimed by
hundreds of olive ridley, leatherback
and hawksbill through December to
January. The Alfred Caves echo with
fruit-eating bats and inside the jungles
he fact that the Dalai Lama has chosen Tabo
as his retirement home speaks volumes about of Shyam Nagar thrive mud volcanoes.
the beautiful village that is all valley, river and Craegy Island, a short swim from
apple orchards. The best apples of the country Kalipur, is superb for snorkelling…
T are said to grow at Tabo, only 49 kilometres from schools of parrot fish, stingray, angel
MOUNTAIN Kaza, the more visible district headquarters of Spiti. Quite fish and moray inject the blue waters
astonishing, given it doesn’t have running water for half the with colours you’d find in a bag of
year. The village is also home to a model agri-horticulture confetti. –Edwina D’souza
society promoting evolved, organic methods of farming to HOW TO GO
support local livelihoods. The Tabo Monastery sprawls over Port Blair, a ship or a short flight from
an impressive area, and is famed for its stunning sculptures, Chennai, is the closest hub. The 298
wall paintings and stucco images. Owing to its location in the km/12 hr ride from Port Blair to Diglipur
shadow of two mountains, Tabo boasts wizardly night skies, winds through the disputed Andaman
splayed silver, waiting to be photographed. Trunk Road, where buses ply, albeit
under security. A more responsible
–Sambit Dattachaudhari option, is to take a boat. The Aerial Bay
Jetty near Diglipur connects to Port Blair
HOW TO GO by sea thrice a week. Some islands need SAMBIT DATTACHAUDHARI
Tabo in Lahul and Spiti is best accessed via the neighbouring district permits, so do check in advance.
of Shimla, connected by train and flight o all major Indian cities. From
Shimla, one can take the HRTC bus (361 km/11 hr) to Tabo.
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Mahé, PUDUCHERRY
Cities Instead of Pondy’s French frills
At first glance, Mahé appears to be nothing
but a busy stretch of highway lined with cheap
bars—its status as part of the liberal Union
Territory of Puducherry is what sets this
3x3 square kilometre town apart from the
surrounding liquor-prohibitive Kerala. Here,
BEACH
one can find a less touristy version of Pondy:
vintage bungalows, check; some famous church, check; spooky
old graveyard, it’s right there.
Mahé just opened its first heritage hotel, Villa De 1945
(villade1945.com) which brims with teakwood and Belgian glass
windows, but unlike hotels elsewhere rates start at `3,000 and
one can spend leisurely evenings sipping tea on a huge balcony.
Mahé’s small bars are of tremendous value: drinks are mostly OLAF KRÜGER/IMAGEBROKER/DINODIA PHOTO LIBRARY (STREET), VISHYVARNE/SHUTTERSTOCK (COAST)
sold at MRP while grub includes fresh seafood and Malabar-spiced
non-veg for an average `150 per plate. Bar-hopping favourites
include Cee Cee’s in an oldish bungalow and the Foreign Liquor
Palace—right by the Mahé Bridge, the latter offers views all
the way to the Arabian Sea. Tax-free liquor shopping is another
pastime—go browsing at Maveli Wines on Railway Station Road
where a bottle of tequila is `1,090, Jim Beam `1,250. –Zac O’Yeah
HOW TO GO
Mahé lies on National Highway 66 between Kerala's Kozhikode and
Kannur districts. The closest airport is in Kannur, 35 km/1.5 hr away.
Tranquebar, TAMIL NADU
Culture Instead of Puducherry
Leave the Frenchified flavours of Puducherry
behind, and move further south to Tranquebar,
on a quiet corner of the Cauvery delta coast. The
patois on the lanes of this seaside town is rustic
Tamil, but with scattered remnants of a Danish
BEACH rule that came sandwiched between the Tamil
Chola–Pandiya kingdoms and the British.
The biggest attraction at Tranquebar is Dansborg Fort, a 17th-
century Danish fortress, which is recently renovated and has a
museum with an interesting collection of old maps and artefcats
on the top floor. Walk around the city to explore the 18th-century,
Indo-European Protestant Zion Church and New Jerusalem
Church, the small Maritime Museum, and the Ziegenbalg Museum
Complex on Admiral Street where you’ll find possibly India’s first
printing press. Stroll down the narrow Goldsmith Street to find a
row of traditional Tamil homes renovated by the Indian National
Trust for Art and Cultural Heritage (INTACH). Come evening,
join the locals at the beach for hot fried molagai bajji (green chilli
fritters), or watch the sunset near the brightly repainted 14th-
century Tamil Masilamani Nathar Temple, dedicated to Shiva.
–Charukesi Ramadurai
HOW TO GO
While Puducherry is the nearest airport (120 km/3 hr), a more scenic
drive is from Chennai along the East Coast Road (270 km/6 hr).
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HAMPI, Karnataka SURYALANKA
BEACH,
Culture Instead of casual heritage strolls, high-energy temple runs
ANDHRA PRADESH
NATURE
Instead of Visakhapatnam
BEACH
Visakhapatnam offers a good dose
of Vitamin beach. Continue southward
along the same stretch that hugs
the Bay of Bengal and you’ll see
another vibrant beach, which,
although popular, is still not where
tourists land up in droves. In
ambiance, Suryalanka Beach is an
in-between, neither forlorn nor too
frenetic. Located in the Guntur district
of Andhra Pradesh, only a six-hour
drive from Hyderabad, it is mostly
frequented by locals who live close to
Bapatla town.
The Andhra Pradesh Tourism
Development Corporation has built
12 cottages along the periphery of
the beach to offer a beach resort
experience, one which, at `2,500 a
een there, done that? We mean Hampi. Well, night, is pleasantly affordable. Blue
Hampi all over again. This time a bit differently waters, latte-brown sand, a clean
with Go Heritage Run’s seventh annual shoreline… Suryalanka is indeed an
“Runcation”. The company organises “active ideal weekend getaway, perfect to
B vacations” in destinations of heritage value in and swim, sunbathe and, most of all, slow
HERITAGE outside India, encouraging travellers to walk, run, hike and down. Should you get tired of doing
cycle. The idea is to take in your surroundings, kilometre by nothing though, there’s something
kilometre, site by site. you can do: binge on barbequed
On a cool February morning, the run will kick off at the palm shoots and toasted peanuts,
statue of Nandi, the monolithic bull many consider to be which vendors on the beach never
Shiva’s vehicle, opposite the seventh century Virupaksha seem to run out of. And those are just
Temple—another well-known landmark among the group munchies. For the main course, the
HOW TO GO of monuments that are UNESCO World Heritage Sites, resort’s in-house restaurant serves
To reach Hampi, monuments that make Hampi, rolling in the ruins of the some mean fish fry and prawn curry.
take a bus or a train Vijayanagar Empire, so alluring, no matter how many times –Swetha Dandapani
to Hospet railway you visit. You can register for a 5-kilometre sprint, which goes
station. Hospet past the Krishna Temple and the Underground Shiva Temple, HOW TO GO
is well-connected From Hyderabad, take an overnight
from Bengaluru or for the 12-kilometre- or 21-kilometre run that winds train to Bapatla. At the railway station,
and Hyderabad. through the Anegudi gate, Pushkarini and the Vittala Temple, either take a shared autorickshaw, or
From Hospet, you with support and hydration stations set up intermittently. A hire an independent one to take you PHOTO COURTESY: GO HERITAGE RUN
can either take a handmade medal and t-shirt is your guaranteed prize, but if directly to the APTDC resort, bang on
public bus or hire you choose to turn back midway, it’s still a win-win: Midway Suryalanka Beach (9 km/15 min drive;
an autorickshaw tourism.ap.gov.in).
to reach Hampi (13 in Hampi is never really far enough from some historic gem
km/30 min). somewhere. –Swetha Dandapani
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UNDERRATED PICK: ODISHA
Discover the state’s laidback coastal rhythms, striking ruins and authentic culture
before everyone else does
HERITAGE
KORAPUT GOPALPUR-ON-SEA
Go for: Tribal handicrafts in the Eastern Ghats Go for: Modern charm in a British-era seaside town
ucked away among the rolling mountains, gorgeous nce a fishing village, Gopalpur became one of the most
waterfalls and lush green valleys of the Eastern Ghats important ports on the East Coast during the British
Tlies the district of Koraput, in southern Odisha. A visit to Oera. The tag “on-sea” was given to Gopalpur by the
the weekly Onkadelli haat (market) at Machakund gives you an British, similar to fishing towns in Great Britain like Burnham
opportunity to meet the isolated Bonda tribe, identified by their and Leigh. When you stroll on the beach today, you’ll walk past
colourful jewellery, metal ornaments and head gear. The tribal ruins of massive warehouses and storage facilities belonging
communities maximise their resources, a policy reflected in to the East India Company, a mute witness to the bygone era.
their handicrafts. The Kotpad Handloom fabric, one of the first Come back in the evening for a food bonanza—deep-fried
to receive the G.I. tag in 2005, uses the dried bark of the Aal masala prawns, assorted fried seafood, masala mudhi (puffed
tree (Indian Madder), harada fruit and heerakashi, a locally rice), all under `100 a plate. Gopalpur is besieged by annual
occurring iron ore, to bring out the distinct brown and maroon cyclonic storms, and a lot of its colonial glamour is now reduced
hues after a rigorous dyeing process. to crumbling structures. Recently, local artists took up the
In Nabrangpur, buy intricately designed bamboo-and- mantle of painting them with colourful murals inspired by the
lacquer boxes called jau khelena. The lacquer is made using sea. The town also houses modern-day coffee shops like Café KUNU_PHOTOGRAPHY/SHUTTERSTOCK (MAN), RACHIT KIRTEEMAN (MURAL)
the gum of the kusum trees that grow in abundance in Cornerstone, which serves divine pastries.
Koraput. A must drink at the local haats is the traditionally Bonus: Drive to Berhampur (15 km/30 min) for Odisha’s
brewed alcohol called mahuli, made from mahua flowers. largest pickle, papad and badi (sun-dried urad dal dumplings)
–Rachit Kirteeman market in Annapurna Bazaar. There are over 60 pickle variants
to be found here. –Rachit Kirteeman
HOW TO GO
Koraput is accessible via train from Bhubaneswar, and Vizag is a 200 HOW TO GO
km/5 hr drive away. Monsoon travel should be avoided. Foreigners Gopalpur-on-Sea is a 170 km/3 hr drive from Bhubaneswar. Avoid
need prior permission from the state govt to visit Machakund. travelling here during the monsoon.
46 NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC TRAVELLER INDIA | DECEMBER 2019
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disha boasts a stunning range of weaves—11 of them
recognised with a G.I. tag—but of these, perhaps the
Omost unique comes from a village called Maniabandha.
One of the only predominantly Buddhist villages in India,
almost its entire population of 5,000 people are weavers.
Walking through, you can hear the rhythmic sound of the
shuttle and loom coming from every house—Khandua,
the single-weave, tie-and-dye ikat produced here, is made
from ethically sourced Eri or silk thread. Instead of boiling
silkworms, the thread is collected from abandoned cocoons.
Maniabandha’s weaver history found mention in 7th-century
Chinese scholar Hiuen Tsang’s travelogue; he was gifted a nine-
yard saree folded into a small bamboo barrel by them. In the
12th-century, poet Jayadeva gifted a silk with the Gita Govinda
woven into it by Maniabandha weavers to Lord Jagannath at
Puri. Since then, tradition has dictated a Khandua weave to
be offered to Lord Jagannath religiously. The saree is also one
donned by women for their wedding. –Rachit Kirteeman MANIABANDHA
HOW TO GO
Maniabandha is a 75 km/2 hr, well-marked drive from Bhubaneswar. Go for: Intricate weaves rich in history
Villagers gladly show you their looms, and sell their sarees.
ASTARANGA a dense jungle of the saline-water-loving jhaun tree (Tamarix
dioica) and vast stretches of mangrove forests, which are
an important barrier against tsunamis and storms. Locally
Go for: Secret beaches and Olive Ridley turtles known as Devi Nasi, this is the spot where the River Devi
empties into the Bay of Bengal. Apart from sheltering deer,
staranga is perhaps Odisha’s best-kept secret—the name fishing cats, jungle cats and hyenas, Nasi is also one of three,
translates to a colourful sunset, and that is guaranteed and the least well-known, nesting sites for Olive Ridley turtles
A on its beach, popular with picnic-loving locals. Here, in Odisha. –Rachit Kirteeman
you’ll find the shrine for Sufi guide Pir Jahania, a place where
people of all faith come to seek blessings. On some days, you HOW TO GO
can find shops selling batches of hot khaja, a deep-fried Odia Astaranga is a 77 km/2 hr drive from both Bhubaneswar and Cuttack.
sweet made with flour, sugar and ghee. The bus service is not frequent, so driving down is a better idea. Keep
in mind that there is limited mobile connectivity here, so ask locals
However, that’s not the secret. From the beach, walk east for for help in navigating. Additionally, carry supplies—there are no major
a good hour or so, till you find an untouched stretch lined with shops or markets nearby.
©ZOONAR GMBH/ALAMY/INDIAPICTURE (WEAVE), PANDAJYOTI/SHUTTERSTOCK (BUDHHA STATUE)
n Odisha's Jajpur district lie spectacular Buddhist sites,
of which the three hillocks of Lalitgiri, Ratnagiri and
IUdayagiri together form the Buddhist Diamond Triangle.
Lalitgiri, or ‘the hill of grace,’ is believed to be the oldest.
Excavations at the site revealed a massive chaityagriha
(sanctuary) and two relic caskets in the mahastupa—surmised
to be the relics of Buddha and his favourite disciples Sariputra
and Mahamogallana. Ratnagiri, or the ‘hill of jewels,’ has
revealed an extensive set of Buddhist monuments dated 6th-
12th centuries A.D., including monastic ruins, innumerable
votive stupas and stone images of divinities of both Mahayana
and Vajrayana pantheon. The Archaeological Museum here is
worth a visit. The largest, Udayagiri, meaning ‘sunrise hill,’ is
spread across 375 acres. It hosts a 9th-10th century stepwell,
a mahastupa, a chaityastupa complex and remains of two
JAJPUR monasteries. Several smaller sites have also been discovered
close by—Langudi, Kamaya Hill and Tarapur—leading to the
region’s comparison with Nalanda. –Nidhi Dhingra
Go for: Stunning Buddhist monuments rivalling the HOW TO GO
beauty of Ajanta and Ellora caves Jajpur is a 100 km/2 hr drive from Bhubaneswar. All three sites are
close to each other, and are open all days from sunrise to sunset.
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hrough verdant deodar and sal trees, you can glimpse
colourful Tibetan prayer flags fluttering away. You’re
T not in Bylakuppe, but in Chandragiri, home to the five-
storeyed Padmasambhava Mahavihara Monastery, the largest
in East India, and inaugurated by the Dalai Lama in 2010. The
year-round pleasant climate and high elevation have earned
it the title Phuntsokling, or Land of Plenty, by locals. Attend
prayer sessions at the monastery, gorge on momos and thukpa
at the canteen, and buy souvenirs from local shops. Make a
quick stop to the gurgling Khasada Waterfall nearby.
Adventurous travellers, drive to Burakhat Pass (60 km/2 hr)
and scale the Mahendragiri peak, Odisha’s second highest at
4,925 feet. It finds a mention in the Mahabharata as a place the
Pandavas visited during their exile. The trek promises plentiful
waterfalls and streams, and temples dedicated to each of the
Pandavas. Ask one of the locals from the villages at the base to
guide you and they will be more than happy to take you around.
–Rachit Kirteeman CHANDRAGIRI
HOW TO GO
Gajapati district is a 300 km/6 hr drive from Bhubaneswar. The Go for: A taste of Tibet in Odisha
closest railway station is Berhampur, a 100 km/2.5 hr drive away.
TALASARI BEACH guesthouse, a quick walk from the beach. In the mornings,
Stay at Panthanivas Chandaneswar, an Odisha Tourism
you’ll find fishermen mending their nets and sorting the catch
Go for: A secluded escape of the day. Pick from the freshest catch—pomfret, lobster,
sea bass, tiger prawns—and take it back to the guesthouse;
f you’re yearning for a tranquil beach getaway, head to they’ll cook it for you. Negotiate with the fishermen to take
Talasari in Balasore district, bordering West Bengal. you to a hidden beach, through backwaters and mangroves
IThe name translates to rows of palm trees, and watching to a sandbar accessible only during low tide. Be mindful of
them sway in the breeze does add a sense of calm to the their instructions, and you’ll have an uforgettable experience.
stay. Drive past paddy fields and small villages, crossing the –Rachit Kirteeman
Chandaneshwar Temple, a Shiva temple built with a distinct
Bengali influence, complete with rounded domes. Mind your HOW TO GO
step at the Talasari Beach though, it is known for being dotted Talasari is a 265 km/5.5 hr drive from Cuttack. Doubles at
Panthanivas Chandaneswar are from `2,200, including breakfast
with red crabs. (panthanivas.com).
nce a princely kingdom, Mayurbhanj was lauded for its
immense cultural wealth and infrastructure, best seen
Oin Baripada. Today, the Victorian Mayurbhanj Palace
houses a college, while Belgadia Palace—where the royal family
resides—is a beautiful homestay.
Mayurbhanj is also home to Simlipal Tiger Reserve, Asia’s
second largest biosphere, which boasts of 98 varieties of
orchids. Close by, the many tiered Sitakund and Barehipani
waterfalls attract due attention. A visit to the weekly haat
at Rangamatia leads to a bounty of foraged produce—wild
mushrooms, hand-pressed mustard oil, super spicy dhanua
lanka or rice grain chilli. Foodies, try mudhi mangso (puffed
rice with mutton curry) at Hotel Garma Garam in Baripada,
and kurkuti, a fiery chutney made with red weaver ants, and
handia, the local rice beer, at Rangamatia haat. Make a stop at
Boyanika, an Odisha government-run store, to buy eco-friendly
sabai grass products and Dhokra brass items made using the
MAYURBHANJ centuries-old art of lost wax casting. –Rachit Kirteeman RACHIT KIRTEEMAN
HOW TO GO
Mayurbhanj is 288 km/6 hr away from Cuttack, and the closest train
Go for: A royal bounty station is Baripada. The best season to visit is winter.
48 NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC TRAVELLER INDIA | DECEMBER 2019
INDIA
DANDASAHI HUKITOLA
Go for: The artistry of pattachitra painters Go for: 19th-century maritime marvels
andasahi is a mere speck of a village—perhaps, no disha’s coast is replete with natural harbours, and
more than 150 people live here in all but it has an the oldest is a tiny port called Hukitola. Off the
Dartistic soul. An enclave of traditional pattachitra OKendrapada district, Hukitola is only accessible
artists, nearly all the practitioners here trace their roots by ferry. The island houses a 19th-century granary with a
back to the 12th century. Most of the villagers live in simple still-functioning rainwater harvesting system. Built by the
lodgings but their artistic heritage is everywhere. Here, space British in 1865, the imposing structure spreads across 7,000
is a canvas to illuminate their talent. Wedding invitations square feet, and was constructed with rocks from the ruins of
are not printed but painted on the walls of the homes Cuttack’s Barabati Fort, ferried via the Mahanadi river. It has
celebrating the union. Most pattachitra artists use the same reopened after a three-year renovation by Intach, Odisha.
techniques as employed by their forefathers. Pattachitras
While you’re there, make a quick stop to Bateeghar
SUDHA PILLAI (MAN), RACHIT KIRTEEMAN (BACKWATERS) themes. While typically, artists don’t use pencil or charcoal the mouths of river Hooghly in West Bengal and Mahanadi in
(lighthouse) village. It is home to India’s oldest functioning
are paintings on cotton, silk and palm leaves. In Dandasahi,
artists traditionally paint religious, mythological and folk
lighthouse with an intriguing name, False Point. The shape of
Odisha were very similar, and since they were geographically
for sketches, now some do. Krishnaleela and Lord Jagannath
are recurring motifs. Tradition deems that only men paint
close, bigger ships reached their doom at Hukitola port. The
pattachitras. Women are relegated to the role of preparing the
129-foot-tall, red-and-white-striped lighthouse was built
in 1837 to solve this confusion, and was named False Point.
canvas. Gender distinctions aside, Dandasahi is a bright spot
on any travel itinerary through the state. –Sudha Pillai
Tourists can climb up its 138 steps. –Rachit Kirteeman
HOW TO GO
HOW TO GO
Hukitola is a 1-hr ferry ride from Jambu Dweep, which is easily
The village is a 250 km/6 hr drive from Puri and is tucked away in the
accessible by road from Cuttack (100 km/3 hr). False Point
coconut groves on the banks of the Bhargabi River. Puri is a 57 km/
1 hr drive from Bhubaneswar airport.
Lighthouse is open to visitors from 7 a.m.-10 a.m. and 4 p.m.-6 p.m.
DECEMBER 2019 | NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC TRAVELLER INDIA 49
INDIA TRIPS
50 NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC TRAVELLER INDIA | DECEMBER 2019
INDIA
HONEY
VALLEY,
Karnataka
Nature
Instead of Agumbe
WILDLIFE
iven just how many
homestays Kodagu (or
Coorg) has, it could be
India’s homestay capital.
G And yet, a few properties
stand out, offering more than coffee
plantation tours. Honey Valley is one
such. In the lap of the Shola forest, at
an elevation of 4,250 feet, it serves as
the base camp for Coorg’s highest peak,
Tadiandamol. Hiking, nature trails and
waterfall-hopping apart, the streams
here are great for herping. Armed with
binoculars and torches, you can take a
guided night tour to go reptile-spotting
in and around the property. What (all)
could you possibly see? Night frogs,
dancing frogs, venomous Malabar pit
vipers, coral snakes and cat snakes are
all known to creep around here.
HOW TO GO
Kodagu is within driving distance of
Bengaluru and Mysore. The stretch from
Kodagu’s Virajpet district is mountainous
and has steep inclines. The property can
arrange for a 4×4 transportation from
Virajpet at an additional cost. Avoid going
in April since rooms tend to be booked out
(honeyvalleyindia.in; doubles from `1,540).
DHRITIMAN MUKHERJEE
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INDIA TRIPS
NAKO, Himachal Pradesh Rakcham,
Nature Instead of Chitkul HIMACHAL PRADESH
NATURE
Instead of Chitkul
MOUNTAIN
That the last village along the Indo-
Tibetan border is ultra-touristy is
hardly surprising. Chitkul’s popularity
is understandable, even expected.
But just 10 kilometres to Chitkul’s
northwest and before you hit Sangla
in Himachal’s Kinnaur region, is a little
village called Rakcham (pronounced
Rakchcham)—an inconspicuous
Himalayan getaway that’s just as
beautiful, and fortunately, a lot
less bustling.
Surrounded by the gorgeous,
snow-capped mountains of the
Kinnaur Kailash range, Rakcham’s
riches are best explored on foot
and on mini hikes. The walk from
Rakcham to Chitkul, for instance,
is a nice way to take in the large
mountains and thick forests, but it’s
along the Rakcham-Batseri route
where beautiful apple orchards steal
your breath away. The village is also
he village of Nako lies 150 kilometres from Chitkul good for watching birds, or even to
in Himachal Pradesh, a rather steep drive up the sit and read by the gurgling Baspa
switchbacks of Kahzigs connecting Kinnaur to River, drowning into its white noise; a
Spiti. If Chitkul has somewhat suffered the perils sound so pure, so real, that ambient
T of being on the Indian mountain lover’s map, the apps can only attempt to recreate.
MOUNTAIN village of Nako—set postcard-like by the Nako lake—offers Best time to go? Summers are good to
relative anonymity, and glorious views of Himachal Pradesh’s escape from the heat on the plains but
highest peak Reo Purgyil (22,362 feet). This quieter nook locals say come after August, when
of Kinnaur is home to the region’s third-oldest monastery, a the flowers here are in full bloom.
wrinkle in time in the far corner of the village. The landscape –Swetha Dandapani
here, part sinister-part magical with the looming shadows of HOW TO GO
Garangutan mountains, closely resembles Spiti’s. Expect an From Shimla, hire a private taxi to reach
abundance of potatoes, apples and green peas on your plate, Rakcham (235 km/8 hr). If you intend to
and cups of mint tea over which to cancel the next leg of the use public transport, take an overnight
journey. You are here to stay. –Sambit Dattachaudhari break at Sarahan. From Sarahan, if
you find a direct bus to Sangla, take
HOW TO GO that. If not, take a bus to Rekong Peo,
Nako in Kinnaur is best accessed via the neighbouring district of from where you can take a shared jeep
towards Sangla. From Sangla, take
Shimla, connected by train and flight to most major Indian cities. another bus to Chitkul; Rakcham is on SAMBIT DATTACHAUDHARI
From Shimla, local taxis (311 km/9 hr) and HRTC public buses ply the way.
the route. A bus journey to Nako would require an overnight stop at
Reckong Peo.
52 NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC TRAVELLER INDIA | DECEMBER 2019
X
56 NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC TRAVELLER INDIA | DECEMBER 2019
INDIA
POLLACHI, Tamil Nadu
Nature Instead of Ooty
ollachi, a place that some dub Tamil Nadu’s open secret, is a picture book
of stunning landscapes—forests, rivers, mountains and green fields. A
rich culture and heritage further supplements it. Once known as “pozhil
vaichi” (the land of natural wealth and prosperity) it was a historic trade
P hub in the ancient province of Kongu Nadu. AAKASH SELVAN (AERIAL VIEW), PRABHAKARAN RAJU/VINMEEN/MOMENT OPEN/GETTY IMAGES (WATERFALL),
FOREST While the main town is in a constant flurry of activity, the hinterland illustrates ANUP SHAH/NATURE PICTURE LIBRARY/GETTY IMAGES (MONKEY), ANAND Y/SHUTTERSTOCK (CITYSCAPE)
a leisurely life. Pollachi’s biggest draw is its wilderness. There’s the Anamalai
(Elephant Mountain) which is a biodiversity hotspot in the Western Ghats and a
HOW TO GO birding paradise. The Anamalai Tiger Reserve, spread over 958 square kilometres,
Take a train or flight is home to leopards, elephants, tigers, civet cats among other species. Hikers can
to Coimbatore and
drive down embark through an ecological tract in Parambikulam, while the scrub jungles in
to Pollachi, 40 Chinnar or the rainforests of Valparai and Topslip are good for slower adventures.
km/1.5 hr away Arts and crafts, native to the region, are still practised in Pollachi, right from
or take a bus. the thevar aatam where dhoti-clad men dance to the beat of the urumi drum or
Overnight buses the kummi paatu, a dance that is accompanied by clapping of hands. Around 12
from Chennai or
Bengaluru ply kilometres from Pollachi, in the village of Zamin Puravipalayam you will see sixth-
directly to Pollachi. generation potters honing their craft as their ancestors did. –Sudha Pillai
X
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INDIA TRIPS
LIFE OUT OF A METRO
When the city becomes too much to bear, slide away to these
picturesque havens for a blissed-out weekend
RELAXATION
FROM MUMBAI
Satara, Maharashtra Go for: Idyllic explorations of the hinterland
ost monsoon, travellers make a beeline for the Kaas Plateau to see the valley
of flowers, and move onwards, missing out on the diversity of Satara. At the
HOW TO GO P foot of the Ajinkyatara fort, hemmed in by seven hills, Satara city is ideal
From Mumbai, buses for unrushed self-drive trips with pit stops for gavti chaha (lemongrass tea) and
ply regularly to Satara (255 homespun mutton thalis or zunka bhakar.
km/5.5 hr). From here, hire a taxi One such stretch is the expanse of Chalkewadi windmill farms, heaving with
to Thoseghar Road. The windmill windcatchers. The whirring of the blades against undulating hills channels the
farms are 29 km/1 hr from
Satara bus station. The driver meditative rhythm of a dervish. Look for the recently identified, vibrantly coloured
generally doubles as a guide and fan-throated lizard, Sarada superba. A short hike from the Kaas road leads to the
introduces travellers to the best viewing deck of the three-tiered Bhambavli Vajrai falls, plunging from a height of
kept secrets of Satara. Hurda 1,840 feet. The Kumudini lake, draped in lilies, is evocative of Monet’s paintings. PIYUSH PAWAR/SHUTTERSTOCK
parties are day-long affairs held Come winter, freshly plucked jowar (hurda) is roasted on dry cow dung and served
from December to March,
and are a part of many agro- al fresco in farms with garlic or groundnut chutneys and spicy green chilly kharda.
tourism ventures. Farmers call these winter harvest celebrations hurda parties. –Dipti Kharude
58 NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC TRAVELLER INDIA | DECEMBER 2019
INDIA
FROM FROM DELHI
BENGALURU Naggar, Himachal Pradesh
The Bhadra Tiger Reserve, Karnataka Go for: The historic town that played muse to a painter
Go for: A birding paradise deep in the Western Ghats he ancient capital of the Kullu kingdom, Naggar sits
like a daydream at the left bank of the Beas river, on
ew hours from Bengaluru, deep in the Western Ghats, Tthe upper reaches of the Kullu valley. Climbing up the
offbeat travellers will find a tranquil river island snaky road to the Naggar castle, the seat of the Kullu rajas for
F framed by thousands of river tern birds and a sprawling centuries, instantly transports a visitor to the town’s historic
wildlife sanctuary in the Chikmagalur and Shimoga districts past. The castle’s exquisitely carved wooden arches and open
of Karnataka. If this sounds too good to be true, drive down areas offer regal vistas of the Pir Panjal range.
to the Bhadra Tiger Reserve and witness the state's bountiful Built by Raja Sidh Singh more than 500 years ago, the
wilderness, often wrongly credited to Bandipur alone. castle—like all of Naggar’s heritage buildings—is an excellent
SHAMBHAVI SRINIVASA/SHUTTERSTOCK (BIRDS), VADIM PETRAKOV/SHUTTERSTOCK (DOORWAY)
This lush haven is a veritable paradise for birders keen example of the local Kath Kuni style of architecture. It
on spotting the majestic flocks of river tern that visit the combines stone and wood to make the building earthquake
little island next to the river Bhadra, making morning and safe; it indeed survived the tremors that shook Naggar
evening boat rides an absolute treat. As the sun sets, these in 1905. A few hundred metres ahead is another elegant
porcelain-white birds, with black swooshes that cover their representation of local architecture that blends in with the
heads like Zorro masks, swoop down and perch on the bows historical landscape: Tripura Sundari Temple. The wooden
of boats, unafraid of dipping their butterscotch-toned beaks pagoda-style temple with many intricate carvings has a conical
into one’s palm for a snack. And the area has no shortage of shikhara atop a double slanted roof. An easy trek just past
other winged wonders. More than 200 different species of Tripura Sundari, following a mountain brook upstream, amidst
birds, including the Malabar parakeet, grey junglefowl, and fruit orchards, leads visitors to the beautiful hilltop Murlidhar
red spurfowl populate the region, so remember to bring your Krishna temple, one of the oldest in the region.
binoculars. A great option for wildlife lovers is an evening Naggar’s biggest draw are the stories of its most famous
jeep safari through the dense and diverse foliage of the resident, the Russian painter and explorer, Nicholas Roerich,
Western Ghats. Knowledgeable guides can help facilitate who made this charming Himalayan town home in the early
sightings of wild animals such as leopards, deer, wild boar, 20th century. Stunning views of the Himalayas and the vivid
gaurs, elephants, and crocodiles. Water sports enthusiasts paintings they inspired can be enjoyed at the art galleries
have many options here including sailing and kayaking in the in Roerich Estate (his two-floor house) and the Urusvati
Bhadra river. –Maitreyee Chowdhury Himalayan Folk Art Institute. –Paloma Dutta
HOW TO GO HOW TO GO
Bhadra Tiger Reserve is a 280 km/5.5 hr from Bengaluru by road. You Naggar lies 525 km/12 hr north of Delhi. Take a bus to Manali and
can hire a taxi or take a KSRTC bus to reach the sanctuary. alight at Patli Kuhal, a 5-km taxi ride away from Naggar.
DECEMBER 2019 | NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC TRAVELLER INDIA 59
INDIA TRIPS
FROM DELHI
Prashar Lake, Himachal Pradesh Go for: A legendary lake and its curious floating island
HOW TO GO small circular patch—nay, island—bobbing on Himachal Pradesh’s Prashar
Prashar Lake lies 500 km/12 hr Lake lends it a fairy-tale air, especially when you learn that it changes position
north of Delhi—an easy, Aseasonally. At 8,960 feet, the beautiful, oval-shaped waterbody is nestled
yet completely transportive amidst enchanting meadows, deep gorges and panoramic views of the snow-clad
weekend destination. Take a night
bus to Mandi that lies 67 km/3 hr ranges of the Dhauladhar. The lake freezes over in the winter, transforming even
south of the lake. One government- further in sight and spectacle. Prashar Lake derives its name from the temple along
run bus leaves Mandi for Prashar its bank, built circa 14th century and dedicated to sage Prashar. According to local
Lake at 7.45 a.m. daily. Trekkers can legend, the three-storeyed pagoda-style structure was built with the wood of just SMIT SANDHIR/MOMENT/GETTY IMAGES
get off at Bagi village, the one deodar tree. Even today, it blends in perfectly with the mythical landscape.
base point of the hike. It is advisable A motorable dirt track leads to the lake, but visitors can also trek the last seven
to hire a local guide for the trek, as
the lack of signage makes it tough kilometres. The easy-to-moderate day trek that starts on a river bed next to Bagi
to find one’s way up to the lake. village is a gradual but steep upward climb through a deep forest. –Paloma Dutta
60 NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC TRAVELLER INDIA | DECEMBER 2019
INDIA
FROM KOLKATA
Guptipara, West Bengal Go for: Terracotta temples and a traditional barowari Durga Puja outside of Kolkata
HOW TO GO n the banks of the Hooghly in West Bengal lies a sleepy village called
Guptipara is about 87 km/2.5 hr Guptipara that finds mention in Tagore’s Shahaj Path. Yet don’t let its quiet
from Howrah station and can be O demeanour deceive you, Guptipara is steeped in history and culture. In the
reached from Kolkata via train and 1760s, a group of men who were stopped from entering the zamindar household
buses as well. puja of the Sens’ revolted and established the first Barowari (public) Durga Puja in
Bengal. Incidentally, the Sens still live here in their palatial home, Abasar.
The Durga Puja at the Sen household is a tradition well over 400 years old. An
interesting facet here is that the idol of Lokkhi (goddess of wealth), doesn’t have
a statue of the goddess’ favourite bird (as is the norm). The owl sitting behind the
statue is a real household pet.
Guptipara is also home to one of Bengal’s biggest performance poet-singers,
Bhola Moira, depicted in films like Antony Firingee (1967). The terracotta temple
architecture here is fascinating, with detailed depictions of Mahishasur Mardini
(destruction of demons by the goddess Durga). Special mention must be made of
the Brindaban Chandra temple and the Ramchandra temple, which have inspired
Jamdani saree weaves through their design. Moreover, the Rath celebration in
Guptipara is the fourth largest in India and is a massive event.
–Maitreyee Chowdhury
SRIJAN ROY CHOUDHURY/SHUTTERSTOCK
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INDIA TRIPS
MAROL, Maharashtra
Cities Instead of traffic cursing, go graffiti-hopping in Mumbai
arol isn’t your regular
cool cat. It doesn’t
have the beatnik
cafés of Bandra, or
M Sassoon Dock’s vintage
STREET ART brag. But ask 28-year-old Omkar
Dhareshwar, and he’d tell you otherwsie.
HOW TO GO He’ll show you why too, unless the artist
Due to exposure manager (pictured) is busy working for
to natural elements Wicked Broz, the brainchild he dubs as
and a culture “India’s first graffiti agency.”
of tagging over, Long used to Andheri’s eastern
you may not find all
mentioned pieces humdrum, Marol is currently home to
at exact locations. over 180 walls of hip-hop style graffiti.
Bespoke tours Neon Ganpatis, laser-eyed women and
can be requested Devanagari alphabets that have cropped
at zain@ up in the decade since Mumbai’s
wickedbroz.com, or SEAN SEQUEIRA
call on +91 99204 opening brush with the artform. To the
99089. uninitiated, the style, although distinct
62 NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC TRAVELLER INDIA | DECEMBER 2019
INDIA
from one artist to another, appears wall-space into an open gallery you can turbaned old man, or the crouching
gnarly-cool, with a side of acid dreams. now visit during park hours. The labour dino skeleton.
And if Dhareshwar is to be believed, the of love can be seen in many avatars—
canvas of public parks and bus stops, sprawling bohemian-style pieces, JABARPADA
high-rises and shanty asbestos, is only dragonflies hulking over ruby hibiscus, Like Adarsh Nagar, the residents of
just growing. octopuses floating past mushrooms and Jabarpada too, were happy to be in on
With help from the rest of Mumbai’s the other garden fantasies. the fun. And why not? Who wouldn’t
street artists old and new—Moron, trade dusty walls for ones teeming with
Zake, Lobster, Mooz, Alchemy, Dexter, MAROL PIPELINE 3D hummingbirds, or tin sheets for a
and Fe One, among others—the In home circles, an unbroken stretch of splash of plump-lipped fish? The pieces,
aspiring “art village” is acquiring a wall along the pipeline at the north end many accompanied by tell-tale artist
curious character. 60-year-olds are of Marol Maroshi Road is known as tags, have added a spring in the step of
volunteering for hip-hop festivals, the Wall of Fame. And for good reason. the residents—some have even changed
teens rallying for clean-ups and What started as a friend’s tribute to late their curtains to match the colour of the
beautifications under the spell of their B-Boy Keith ballooned into a full-scale nearest graffiti. Hunt for the leopard
first spray can. Street artists, housing project. Look out for the paint-totting at the end of the lane, and the window
societies, BMC corporators and even desi woman, the Schwarzeneggeresque reimagined as an eye.
the police are banding together to monster bunny, and a hyper-realistic
create a strange but stunning Venn snake giving the world its daily dose ECO RESIDENCY
diagram of artistic expression and of side-eye. Among it all, the minimal Although a private residency,
community overhaul. Here are some but arresting impression of Keith’s face Dhareshwar’s headquarters can be
haunts you can head to, for your fill of endures in black and white. visited for the occasional art workshop
asli hip-hop. he organises—chances are it will be
ADARSH NAGAR worth it. A designated hip-hoppers’ pad,
BHARAT VAN A mint example of hip-hop-meets- every corner of the complex grins with
A stone quarry remodelled as a community art project, here the Tamil alphabets, DC characters, dragons
public park, the joggers’ haunt is now local youth took it upon themselves and laughing Buddhas brought to life
witness to the country’s first women- to spruce up the neighbourhood’s with the consent of society elders.
only street art festival, Ladies First. tapering bylanes by inviting artists I SPY: BONUS SPOTS
from Chennai, Germany, Australia
Bharat Van kicked up dust in March,
SEAN SEQUEIRA when seven artists invited from across and Uruguay for a well-sustained Marol Metro Station; St. Vincent Pallotti
Church; Military Road; Marwa Road.
project. Don’t miss the temple tattooed
India were joined by 100 local ladies
–Sohini Das Gupta
in transforming 10,000 square feet of
in dizzy orange and purple coils, the
DECEMBER 2019 | NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC TRAVELLER INDIA 63
Manapad,
TAMIL NADU
Culture
Instead of Kanyakumari
Skip touristy
Kanyakumari, and give
Manapad, a quiescent
coastal village in India’s
far south, a try. The
clear blue seas, naturally
BEACH
formed dunes, shallow
lagoons, fishing boats docked in the
tiny islets of the sea, beautiful churches
steeped in history and the gregarious
people of the fishing village make a visit
to this hamlet a surreal experience.
Manapad has a unique coastline which
has been formed by several layers of lava
accumulated over centuries and presents
beautiful wave formations, making it a
great spot for surfers and kite boarders.
Manapad is where St. Francis Xavier
arrived in 1542 to begin his missionary
Honnavar, KARNATAKA
Culture Instead of Gokarna
An hour’s drive south of Gokarna lies a small port town situated on
the Karnataka coast. Honnavar is the name of this settlement cradled
between the sea and the hills. A perfect getaway for those who want
to dip their feet in the surf after a morning hike, it is also a less hipster
alternative to Gokarna.
WATER The township of Honnavar is a lovely mix of modern-day amenities
with old-world village charm. Forests skirt the town area and it is home to
many tribes who still retain their traditional way of life. Moreover the Sharavati river flows
through it and makes for a spectacular fall into the Arabian sea.
Other than walks on the beach, visitors with green thumbs might want to spend
time at the BuDa Folklore NGO, which works with the area’s river and forest tribes. The
NGO welcomes volunteers to participate in activities like paddy planting or kokum fruit
harvesting. Guests can also learn traditional crafts like weaving baskets, cook traditional
food over firewood, and work side by side with the tribes. Free from the trappings of noisy,
pollution-laced city life, Honnavar is a refreshing change. –Maitreyee Chowdhury
HOW TO GO
Honnavar is a 460 km/9 hr drive from Bengaluru. The closest airport in Dabolim, Goa, is a 178
km/4 hr drive away.
64 NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC TRAVELLER INDIA | DECEMBER 2019
service. The Holy Cross Church, built
close to the sea atop a sand hill in 1581,
has a relic fragment believed to be from
Jerusalem and the cross is publicly
displayed for thousands who attend the
Exaltation of the Holy Cross festival, held
between September 1-14 every year. If
you visit during Dussehra, make a detour
to the Kulasekarapatinam village nearby,
to witness the fascinating celebration
of Goddess Kali’s victory over evil at the
Mutharamman Temple.
History buffs, stroll across the coast
exploring the rich heritage of the place,
walking to the Old Saint Francis cavern,
Holy Cross Shrine, and St. James Church.
And for sunrises and sunsets rivalling
those in Kanyakumari, head to the Holy
Cross Church. The mesmerising view from
here stretches across the blue lagoon and
sea. –Sindhuja Parthasarathy
HOW TO GO
From Chennai, take a train to Tiruchendur.
Then hire a taxi to Manapad, which is 17
km/30 min away. Alternatively, you could
fly to Tutucorin and hire a taxi or a bus to
Manapad (50 km/1.5 hr).
Tinchuley, WEST BENGAL
Adventure Instead of Darjeeling
Up the winding road from Silliguri towards Darjeeling travellers can
take a short 25 kilometre detour to a charming village of Tinchuley. It
is populated by a few local families, one of whom, the Gurungs, own
the completely organic Gurgung Guest House. Tinchuley has the
most fantastic views—the snow-capped Mt. Kanchendzonga, orange
MOUNTAIN orchards and the Teesta river gurgling in the distance—and is ideal for a PRASHANT SANKARAN (BRIDGE), SINDHUJA PARTHASARATHY (CHURCH), DISHABHI/SHUTTERSTOCK (MONASTERY)
non-touristy kind of holiday. Visitors can take quiet walks up and down
remote trails running through the hills, interact with villagers, visit the nearby Tinchuley
Monastery and take a tour of the Peshok tea estate.
The roads that lead to Tinchuley are narrow and often unpredictable due to inclimate
weather and loose terrain. Generally, Tinchuley is slightly colder than Darjeeling as it is
not subject to the rampant overtourism and pollution that plague the popular hill station.
While the fragrance of pine cones freshly fallen from conifers and a close proximity to
village life is alluring, it is important to note that the facilities are very basic in Tinchuley,
making the place better suited to more adventurous travellers. –Maitreyee Chowdhury
HOW TO GO
The closest airport is Bagdogra, and buses ply to Darjeeling regularly from Siliguri. Get off at
Takdah, and take a taxi (3 km/10 min). Alternatively, hire a taxi from Bagdogra (75 km/3 hr).
DECEMBER 2019 | NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC TRAVELLER INDIA 65
INDIA TRIPS
KHONOMA, Nagaland
Culture Instead of Kisama
ravels to the Northeast have now terraced paddy fields often pointed out as places
become commonplace, if not where the warriors stood guard.
synonymous with the popular annual The drive to go green took root way back in
festivals that stir the otherwise December 1998 when hunting and felling of trees
T untouched, non-commercial was banned in the village of about 3,000, and
MOUNTAIN landscape. Hornbill in Nagaland’s capital ecological methods were introduced for farming
Kohima or, to be specific, in Kisama, a village and all agricultural activities. Result? Today
HOW TO GO about 20 kilometres away, is a grand example Khonoma is a proud self-sustained community.
Khonoma is 20 km/1 of this. But, only a little away from the furore of Every year, the village celebrates its birthday on
hr from Kohima by taxi. Kisama lies Khonoma, a 700-year-old village, September 1, an occasion that attracts even those
The closest airport to unique in its ability to tell both the history of who now live elsewhere. Dressed in traditional
Kohima is in Dimapur
(74 km/3.5 hr), but flight the warriors of Nagaland and the story of India’s attire, the young, old and little ones gather—
frequency is low. The first green village. Home to the Angami tribe, no to feast on a local meal of foraged vegetables
closest railway station sit-down with the friendly villagers in this part and ferns, rice and spicy curries; for upbeat
is also Dimapur. You’ll of Nagaland is complete without a glass of zutho singalongs with the petu and theku (local string NOMAD1988/SHUTTERSTOCK
require a special permit (the local rice beer) and a retelling of the natives’ instruments); and to tune into tales, old and new,
to visit Khonoma, which
can be acquired from resistance against the colonial invasion between told around a bonfire. Another Northeast fest
local authorities. 1830 and 1880 with spots all over the emerald worth calendaring, we say. –Stuti Agarwal
66 NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC TRAVELLER INDIA | DECEMBER 2019
25
SPECIAL REPORT
BEST
Where should you TRIPS
go in the year ahead?
We collaborated with
our 17 international
editorial teams to
highlight destinations
to discover, places to 2020
savour, and reasons to
celebrate the world.
Ancient Traditions GUIZHOU • Scenic Drives WALES WAY • Blue Lagoons MALDIVES • Gilded Opulence PUEBLA • Epic Mountains GROSSGLOCKNER • American
Icons GRAND CANYON • Undiscovered Europe ASTURIAS • Wild Things CHAD • Cool Castles TELČ • Legendary Pharaohs ABU SIMBEL • Contemporary Art
FORT KOCHI • Amazing Ambles NATIONAL BLUE TRAIL • Endless Adventure TASMANIA • Archaeology TURKEY • Historic Bridges MOSTAR • Blazing Trails
TOHOKU • Starry Nights KALAHARI • Stellar Vintages MENDOZA • Creative Cities PHILADELPHIA • Volcanic Wonders KAMCHATKA • Deep Woods BIAŁOWIEŻA
FOREST • Jungle Temples GUATEMALA • Coastal Gems CANARY ISLANDS • Classic Dishes PARMA • Baby Animals MAGDALEN ISLANDS
NATGEO.COM/BESTTRIPS2020
BEST TRIPS
CULTURE
IF YOU LIKE
ANCIENT TRADITIONS
GUIZHOU
VISIT
PROVINCE, CHINA
WHY GO NOW
26.6386° N, 106.6438° E
Step into
untouched
ASIA villages mostly
AC.
PAC. by time
P
OCEAN
OC
EAN
Historically one of China’s most isolated
and undiscovered provinces, southwestern
Guizhou is gaining global notice as a
cloud computing and big-data centre. The
mountainous region’s plentiful water and
cool climate are draws for Apple, Huawei,
and other tech powerhouses that have
established or are building facilities in the
provincial capital, Guiyang.
This buzz around bytes has improved
access to the entire province, including
the traditional villages of ethnic minority
groups, such as the Bouyei, Dong, and
Miao. In eastern Guizhou’s indigenous
villages, in particular, days unfold at a
slow pace and people continue farming
and textile traditions—such as spinning,
embroidery, and batik—practised since the
sixth century.
On guided tours (by appointment) of
Dimen Dong Cultural Eco-Museum, a self-
sufficient community encompassing several
villages, visitors likely will hear Dong
folk singing, recognised as a UNESCO
Intangible Cultural Heritage in 2009,
or see master artisans demonstrating
traditional Dong folk crafts, such as
papermaking and handloom weaving.
WHEN TO GO HOW TO GO
APR- The Guiyang–Guangzhou
High-Speed Railway connects
the megacity of Guangzhou
MAY (northwest of Hong Kong) with NG MAPS (ALL GLOBES)
Guizhou province, including
station stops in ethnic regions.
68 NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC TRAVELLER INDIA | DECEMBER 2019
WORLD
ADVENTURE
Women of the
Longhorn Miao tribe
in Guizhou province IF YOU LIKE
wear elaborate SCENIC DRIVES
headdresses of
WALES
linen and wool on VISIT
special occasions.
WAY
UNITED
KINGDOM
53.2802° N, 3.791° W
EUROPE
ATL. OCEAN
ATL. OCEAN
WHY GO NOW
Follow far-reaching routes that get
the blood pumping
Three new, fully mapped national
touring routes, collectively called
the Wales Way, showcase the best of
this legend-filled land. At about 300
kilometres, the Cambrian Way is the
longest of the three roads, snaking
north to south along the backbone
of Wales. Sandwiched between
mountains and sea, the Coastal Way
is a sweeping 290-kilometre journey
around Cardigan Bay on the country’s
west coast. The castle-rich North
Wales Way follows a centuries-old
trading route 120 kilometres from
northeastern Queensferry to the Isle
of Anglesey.
Each driving itinerary is a gateway
to wider outdoor adventures. Hike
in Edmund Hillary’s footsteps on
Mount Snowdon; inland surf at
Adventure Parc Snowdonia; or go
coasteering (a new adventure sport
that combines rock climbing, cliff
jumping, snorkelling, and more) on the
Pembrokeshire coast.
WHEN HOW TO GO
TO GO Dragon Tours offers
MAY- private and group
itineraries tailored to
participants’ interests.
JUN Owner/guide Mike
Davies holds a graduate
degree in medieval
Welsh history and can
help trace clients’
Welsh ancestors.
dragon-tours.com
REPORTED AND WRITTEN BY MARYELLEN KENNEDY DUCKETT, WITH CONTRIBUTIONS
BY TRAVELER’S 17 INTERNATIONAL EDITORIAL TEAMS. ADDITIONAL REPORTING BY DON GEORGE. DECEMBER 2019 | NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC TRAVELLER INDIA 69
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National Geographic Traveller India is the Indian edition of National Geographic Traveler (USA) the travel magazine of the National Geographic Society. At National Geographic Traveller India we bring together travel and culture, travel and experience, travel and story-telling. Our intention is to inspire more travel to more places, in our vast country and across the world, for the whole family. National Geographic Traveller India tries to bring variety to the experience of travel, inspiring all kinds of journeys from sedentary to super-active ones. Additionally, we are committed to spreading awareness about sustainable travel, and to ensuring that travel destinations endure for future generations.
In this issue
Our December edition gears up for travel plans in #2020. Seventeen of National Geographic Travel's international desks have handpicked 25 global destinations including Tasmania, Fort Kochi and Spain. Closer home, our team at NGTI have offered 62 alternatives to touristy hotspots in India. Whether it is rafting in Pancheshwar, hiking in Yurutse or sustainable living in West Bengal, travel differently in the year ahead.
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