(DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - Budapest

EYEWITNESS TRAVEL


TOP


BUDAPEST











CRAIG TURP














































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Top 10 Budapest The Top 10
Highlights of Everything

Welcome to Budapest ....................5 Moments in History .....................40
Exploring Budapest .......................6 Museums and Galleries ..............42
Budapest Highlights ....................10 Places of Worship ........................44
Hungarian Parliament .................12 Baths and Swimming Pools ........46
St Stephen’s Basilica ...................16 Danube Sights ..............................48
Váci utca ........................................18 Off the Beaten Track ....................50
Gellért Hotel and Baths ...............20 Children’s Attractions ..................52
Margaret Island ............................22 Restaurants ..................................54
Hungarian National Gallery ........26 Cafés, Pubs and Bars ..................56
Mátyás Church .............................30 Shops and Markets ......................58
Hungarian State Opera ................32 Budapest for Free ........................60
Hungarian National Museum .....34 Festivals and Events ....................62
Great Synagogue ..........................36 Day Trips from Budapest .............64






















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CONTENTS



















Budapest Streetsmart
Area by Area

The Castle District Getting To and
and North Buda ........................68 Around Budapest ...................108
Gellért and Tabán .........................74 Practical Information .................110
Around Parliament ......................80 Places to Stay .............................114
Central Pest .................................88
Around Városliget.........................94 General Index .............................118
Greater Budapest.......................100 Acknowledgments .....................124
Phrase Book ...............................126







The information in this DK Eyewitness
Top 10 Travel Guide is checked regularly.
Every effort has been made to ensure that
this book is as up-to-date as possible at the
time of going to press. Some details, however,
such as telephone numbers, opening hours,
prices, gallery hanging arrangements and
travel information, are liable to change.
The publishers cannot accept responsibility
for any consequences arising from the use
of this book, nor for any material on third-
party websites, and cannot guarantee that
Within each Top 10 list in this book, no hierarchy
of quality or popularity is implied. All 10 are, in any website address in this book will be a
the editor’s opinion, of roughly equal merit. suitable source of travel information. We
value the views and suggestions of our
readers very highly. Please write to:
Front cover and spine Fishermen’s Bastion and
Mátyás Church, on the Danube Publisher, DK Eyewitness Travel Guides,
Back cover Chain Bridge, illuminated Dorling Kindersley, 80 Strand, London WC2R
Title page Statue of Stephen I of Hungary at the 0RL, UK, or email [email protected]
Fishermen’s Bastion


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Top 10 Budapest ❮❮ 5

Welcome to
Budapest





Bestriding the Danube, Hungary’s capital is not one city but
two. Buda, with its medieval streets and imperial palaces,
rises on the right bank; Pest, the commercial and political
hub of modern Hungary, lines the left. To gether they make
up what is perhaps one of Europe’s finest urban landscape.
With Eyewitness Top 10 Budapest, it’s yours to explore.

A UNESCO World Heritage Site, Buda’s Castle District is where
both the city and Hungary itself began. The Royal Palace, which
houses the National Gallery, and the historic Mátyás Church are
just two reminders of the city’s importance as a centre of both the
Habsburg Empire and of Christianity. More than once the city was
Christendom’s final bastion against the Ottomans. The opulent
Byzan tine Rudas Baths and Veli Bej Bath – which predate the
famous Gellért Baths by three centuries – are evidence that, on
occasion, the Ottomans won. Much of Buda can be explored on foot,
while a network of funiculars, historic trains and chairlifts offer
access to the many charms of the rolling Buda Hills beyond.
When the Chain Bridge was completed in 1849, linking Buda and
Pest for the first time, the heart of the city shifted from one bank
of the Danube to the other. Since then, Pest has become the
city’s dynamic heart, not least in the lively central shopping
and entertain ment district around Váci utca.

Whether you’re visiting for a weekend or longer, our Top 10 guide
covers the best of everything the city has to offer, from the grandeur
of Buda to the bustle of Pest. It gives you tips throughout, from
finding out what’s free to seeking out the best restaurants, along
with six easy-to-follow itineraries designed to tie together a clutch
of sights in a short space of time. Add inspiring photography and
detailed maps, and you’ve got the essential pocket-sized travel
companion. Enjoy the book, and enjoy Budapest.



Clockwise from top: Interior of the Hungarian National Museum; carvings on the Fishermen’s
Bastion; interior of the Hungarian State Opera; Danube façade of the Hungarian Parliament;
statue of a lion on Chain Bridge; Hungarian lace; Centenary Monument on Margaret Island






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6 ❯❯ Top 10 Budapest

Exploring Budapest Japanese GardenJapanese Garden
(1.5km)(1.5km)
Budapest is packed with things to see and do so. Whether Margaret
Margaret
Island
Island
you have just a couple of days to explore it or more time,
you’ll want to make every minute count. To help you do
just that, here are two sightseeing itineraries covering Duna (Danube) Duna (Danube)
the main highlights of Hungary’s fascinating capital city.

To ElizabethTo Elizabeth
Lookout Tower (5km)Lookout Tower (5km)
see inset mapsee inset map
BUS BUS
Hungarian
Hungarian
Parliament
Batthyány
Batthyány Parliament
Squareare
Squ
VÍZIVÁROS
VÍZIVÁROS
LIPÓTVÁROS Hungarian
LIPÓTVÁROS
Hungarian
State Opera
Mátyásyás TRAM TRAM State Opera
Mát
Church
St Mary
St Mary Church
St Stephen's
Magdalene St Stephen's
Magdalene
Basilica
Basilica
Fishermen’s
Fishermen’s
Bastion
Lords’ Lords’ Bastion
Street Street Funicular
Funicular
Fishermen’s Bastion, set high on Castle Hill, offers Vörösmarty
Vörösmarty
Squ
the best view of the city from its conical turrets. Squareare
Royal Royal
Palace
Palace
Great Great
Two Days in Budapest National Gallery Synagogue
Synagogue
Hungarian
Hungarian
National Gallery
Inner City
Inner City
Budapest Hist
Hungarian
Day 1 Key Two-day itinerary Budapest Historyory Parish Church Hungarian
Parish Church
Museum
Museum
National
National

MORNING Four-day itinerary TABÁNTABÁN Museum
Museum
Ride the Castle Hill Funicular (see p49) Váci utca
Váci utca
up to the Castle District and stroll the
grounds of the Royal Palace (see p69) Four Days in Budapest
before seeing the fantastic collection
of Secession art at the Hungarian Day 1 (Danube)
Duna
Duna
Museum ofMuseum of
National Gallery (see pp26–9). MORNING GELLÉRT Applied ArtsApplied Arts
GELLÉRT
(Danube)
AFTERNOON Visit Margaret Island (see p22–3), a Gellért
Gellért
Explore medieval Buda: pretty Lords’ peaceful park situated in the middle Baths Baths 0 metres0 metres 500500
Street (see p70), Mátyás Church (see of the Danube. Be sure not to miss 0 yards0 yards 500500
pp30–31) and the ruined Church of the Japanese Garden.
St Mary Magdalene (see p71). Don’t AFTERNOON
miss views across the Danube from Explore the Castle District, especially
the Fishermen’s Bastion (see p70). Lords’ Street (see p70) and Mátyás
Church (see pp30–31), and enjoy the
Day 2 views from the Fishermen’s Bastion
MORNING (see p70). Spend the evening relaxing
Spend some time in the Hungarian at the Gellért Baths (see pp20–21).
National Museum (see pp34–5) before
strolling along Váci utca (see pp18–19). Day 2
AFTERNOON MORNING
Take a guided tour of the Hungarian Enjoy coffee and pastries at Gerbeaud
Parliament (see pp12–13) and visit Cukrászda (see p57) on Vörösmarty
St Stephen’s Basilica (see pp16–17). Square before strolling along Váci
Afterwards, watch a show at the utca (see pp18–19). Don’t miss the
Hungarian State Opera (see pp32–3). Inner City Parish Church (see p44).
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Exploring Budapest ❮❮ 7



Japanese GardenJapanese Garden
(1.5km)(1.5km)
Margaret
Margaret
Island
Island
Duna (Danube) Duna (Danube)



To ElizabethTo Elizabeth
Lookout Tower (5km)Lookout Tower (5km)
see inset mapsee inset map
BUS BUS
Hungarian
Hungarian
Parliament
Batthyány Parliament
Batthyány
Squareare
Squ
VÍZIVÁROS
VÍZIVÁROS The Royal Palace, or Castle, is home
to several museums, including the
world-class Hungarian National Gallery.
Hungarian
LIPÓTVÁROS Hungarian
LIPÓTVÁROS
State Opera
Mátyásyás TRAM TRAM State Opera
Mát
Church
St Mary
St Mary Church time to spare, the Museum of
St Stephen's
Magdalene St Stephen's Applied Arts (see p90), in a gorgeous
Magdalene
Basilica
Basilica
Fishermen’s
Fishermen’s
Lords’ Lords’ Bastion Secessionist building, is worth a visit.
Bastion
Street Street
Funicular
Funicular
Vörösmarty Day 3
Vörösmarty
Squareare
Squ
Royal Royal MORNING
Palace Stroll along the Pest embank­
Palace
Great Great ment to the Hungarian
Hungarian
Hungarian Synagogue
Synagogue
National Gallery Parliament (see pp12–13),
National Gallery
pausing at the memorial to
Inner City
Budapest Historyory Inner City Hungarian
Budapest Hist
Hungarian
Museum Parish Church National the massacre of Jews here
Parish Church
Museum
National
Museum
TABÁNTABÁN Museum in January 1945 (see p48).
Váci utca Afterwards, explore the
Váci utca
lovely St Stephen’s
Basilica (see pp16–17).
AFTERNOON
The Great Synagogue
Duna
Duna
Museum ofMuseum of
GELLÉRT
GELLÉRT Applied ArtsApplied Arts (see pp36–7) and its Jewish
(Danube)
(Danube)
Gellért History Museum are a
Gellért
Baths Baths 0 metres0 metres 500500 must­see. After your visit,
0 yards0 yards 500500 take a tour of the Hungarian
State Opera (see pp32–3) and
Elizabeth Japanese catch an evening performance.
Lookout Garden
Tower Chair lift
Day 4
MORNING
BUS
Children’s Start your day at the Royal Palace
Railway
János Hill Duna ( Danube) (see p69), visiting both the Hungarian
National Gallery (see pp26–9) and the
0 km 2 Budapest History Museum (see p69).
0 miles 2 see main map AFTERNOON
Head into the Buda Hills (see p101) via
AFTERNOON the chair lift to the top of János Hill
Allow yourself the luxury of a full (see p103). Take a ride on the unique
afternoon to take in all that the Children’s Railway (see p52) to the
superb Hungarian National Museum Elizabeth Lookout Tower. Climb to
(see pp34–5) has to offer. If you have the top for great views of the city.
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Top 10 Budapest

Highlights












The Grand Staircase of the
Hungarian Parliament













































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Budapest Highlights 10 Hungarian National Gallery 26
Hungarian Parliament 12 Mátyás Church 30
St Stephen’s Basilica 16 Hungarian State Opera 32
Váci utca 18 Hungarian National Museum 34
Gellért Hotel and Baths 20 Great Synagogue 36
Margaret Island 22






















































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10 ❯❯ Top 10 Budapest Highlights

Budapest Highlights


The finest of the Habsburg triumvirate of Budapest, Vienna
and Prague, the Hungarian capital is much grander in scale
than its counterparts. Comprising two separate towns – hilly
Buda on the Danube’s western bank and flat Pest on the
eastern bank – this is a city rich in historical sights.

Hungarian
Parliament F R ANKEL LE Ó U F R ANKEL LE Ó U
Viewed from the opposite bank ÚJPESTI RAKPART ÚJPESTI RAKPART
of the Danube, the façade of P O ZS O NYI U P O ZS O NYI U
HOLLÁN ER N Ő U CS A N Á DY U
HEGEDŰSGYU LA U U
the Hungarian Parliament is Marg Margit hídit híd HOLLÁN ER N Ő U CS A N Á DY
A N G E LO R OT TA RK P T Margaret Bridgegaret Bridge
one of Buda pest’s defining TÖRÖ K U TÖRÖ K U S Z S Z HEGEDŰSGYU LA U V I S E G R Á D I U V I S E G R Á D I U
sights. Its chambers II VÁ C I Ú T VÁ C I Ú T
contain magnificent II BEM BEM A N G E LO R OT TA RK P T Mar FALK MIKSA U FALK MIKSA U
M A R G I T K Ö R Ú T J. U
J. U
BAJCSY-ZSILINSZKY ÚT POD MAN ICZKY U
ID. ANTALL JÓZSEF RKPT EN T I ST VÁN KÖ R ÚT
treasures (see M A R G I T K Ö R Ú T HORVÁT U HORVÁT U D u n a e ) NYUGATI
NYUGATI
pp12–15). D u n a ( D a n u b ( D a n u b e ) ID. ANTALL JÓZSEF RKPT EN T I ST VÁN KÖ R ÚT TÉR TÉR POD MAN ICZKY U
MARKÓ U
MARKÓ U
KOSSUTH
KOSSUTH
CSALOGÁNY U
CSALOGÁNY U FAZEKAS U FAZEKAS U LAJOS TÉR
ALKOTMÁNY U
LAJOS TÉR
St Stephen’s Basilica B AT T HYÁNY U ALKOTMÁNY U TERÉZVÁROS
TERÉZVÁROS
B AT T HYÁ NY U
VÍZIVÁROSÁROS
With its 96-m- (315-ft-) high VÍZIV NAGYMEZŐ U TERÉZ KÖRÚT
dome visible from all over the city, KAPISZTRÁN DONÁTI U DONÁTI U SZABADSÁG BAJCSY-ZSILINSZKY ÚT
SZABADSÁG
KAPISZTRÁN
TÉR
TÉR
TÉR
TÉR
NAGYMEZŐ U
TERÉZ KÖRÚT
St Stephen’s Basilica houses the B EM RAKPAR T B EM RAKPAR T S Z ÉCHENYI RAKPART S Z ÉCHENYI RAKPART BANK U
BANK U
A N D R Á S SY ÚT
ARANY JÁNOS U
city’s most bizarre relic – the ARANY JÁNOS U A N D R Á S SY ÚT
mummified forearm of St Stephen ORSZÁGHÁZ U TÁRNOK U Széchen SZÉCHENYI YI CSÁNYI U
Széchenyiyi
lánchíd SZÉCHEN
lánchíd
(King István) (see pp16–17). AT T I L A Ú T Chain Bridge ISTVÁN ISTVÁN KIRÁLY U KIRÁLY U ERZSÉBETVÁROS
CSÁNYI U
ERZSÉBETVÁROS
Chain Bridge TÉR
J Ó Z S E F AT T I L A U
TÉR
ORSZÁGHÁZ U TÁRNOK U
DÍSZ DÍSZ J Ó Z S E F AT T I L A U
AT T I L A Ú T
TÉR TÉR CLARK CLARK ERZSÉBET
ERZSÉBET
ÁDÁM ÁDÁM TÉR TÉR DOB U DOB U
K R I S ZTI N A K .
K R I S ZTI N A K .
ALAGÚT U
KRISZTINA TÉR ALAGÚT U TÉR TÉR JANE H AINING RAKPART
KRISZTINA
PALOTA ÚT
PALOTA ÚT
Váci utca TÉR ATTILA ÚT D O R OT T YA U SZERVITA TÉR KÁROLY KRT WESSELÉNYI U KLAUZÁL U
WESSELÉNYI U KLAUZÁL U
RÁKÓCZI ÚT
RÁKÓCZI ÚT
SZERVITA
TÉR
For centuries, Váci utca DÓZSA DÓZSA F RI E D RI C H B OR N R K P T A PÁC Z A I A PÁC Z A I U PETŐFI S. UKOSSUTH L. U
ATTILA ÚT
KÁROLY KRT
JÓZSEFV
JÓZSEFVÁROSÁROS
TÉR
has been the centre of the TAB TABÁNÁN TÉR ( D a n u b e D u n a KOSSUTH L. U
JANE H AINING RAKPART U
D O R OT T YA U PETŐFI S. U
BRÓDY SÁNDOR U
SZABAD
D u n a
Hungarian commercial world, KRISZTINA KÖRÚT SZABAD SAJTÓ ÚT BRÓDY SÁNDOR U
SAJTÓ ÚT
F RI E D RI C H B OR N R K P T )
( D a n u b e )
and it remains Budapest’s MÚZEUM KRT MÚZEUM KRT
KRISZTINA KÖRÚT
DÖBRENTEI Erzsébet híd
retail and social hub (see pp18–19). HEGYALJA Ú T DÖBRENTEI TÉR Elizabeth VÁ VÁC I U SZERB U SZERB U SZABÓ E SZENTKIRÁLYI U SZENTKIRÁLYI U
HEGYALJA Ú T TÉR
Elizabeth
SZABÓ E
Bridge Bridge
VÁMHÁZ KÖRÚT TÉR
Erzsébet híd C I U
Gellért Hotel RAOUL WALLENBERG RKPT VÁMHÁZ KÖRÚT TÉR RÁDAY U ÜLLŐI ÚT
ÜLLŐI ÚT
and Baths GELLÉR SZENT GELLÉRT RKPT CSARNOK LÓNYAY U LÓNYAY U
RÁDAY U
CSARNOK
GELLÉRTT
KINIZSI U
Budapest is famous for its TÉR TÉR KINIZSI U
RAOUL WALLENBERG RKPT
SZENT GELLÉRT RKPT Szabadság híd
numerous thermal baths, and Liberty Bridge U AKTÁR
Liberty Bridge U
Szabadság híd KÖZR
the best are the indoor and 0 metr 500 500
KÖZRAKTÁR
0 metreses
outdoor pools at the legendary 0 yar 0 yardsds 500 500
Gellért Hotel (see pp20–21).
Margaret Island
Isolated until the 19th century and long
a retreat for religious contem plation, the lush
and still-secluded Margaret Island is an ideal
place for a peaceful stroll (see pp22–3).
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Budapest Highlights ❮❮ 11

Hungarian
National Gallery
The six permanent exhibitions
spread throughout much of
Budapest’s Royal Palace
present the most valuable
collection of Hungarian art
in the world (see pp26–9).
Mátyás Church
F R ANKEL LE Ó U F R ANKEL LE Ó U ÚJPESTI RAKPART ÚJPESTI RAKPART P O ZS O NYI U The coronation church
of the Hungarian kings, with
its Gothic spire towering
P O ZS O NYI U
above much of Upper
H E GE D Ű S G Y U L A U U
HOLLÁN ERNŐ U CS A N Á DY U
H E GE D Ű S G Y U L A U
V I S E G R Á D I U
TÖRÖ K U TÖRÖ K U Marg Margit hídit híd S Z S Z HOLLÁN ERNŐ U CS A N Á DY V I S E G R Á D I U Buda, is as impressive
A N G E LO R OT TA RK P T Margaret Bridgegaret Bridge
close up as it is from
FALK MIKSA U
FALK MIKSA U
II II BEM BEM A N G E LO R OT TA RK P T Mar VÁ C I Ú T VÁ C I Ú T afar (see pp30–31).
M A R G I T K Ö R Ú T HORVÁT U HORVÁT U D u n a D u n a e ) ( D a n u b e ) ID. ANTALL JÓZSEF RKPT EN T IST VÁN KÖ R ÚT NYUGATI TÉR P O D MAN IC Z KY U
M A R G I T K Ö R Ú T J. U
J. U
ID. ANTALL JÓZSEF RKPT EN T IST VÁN KÖ R ÚT
NYUGATI
TÉR
FAZEKAS U FAZEKAS U ( D a n u b KOSSUTH MA R KÓ U
MA RKÓ U
KOSSUTH
LAJOS TÉR
ALKOTMÁNY U
CSALOGÁNY U
CSALOGÁNY U LAJOS TÉR ALKOTMÁNY U TERÉZVÁROS
TERÉZVÁROS
B AT T HYÁ NY U
VÍZIVÁROSÁROS
VÍZIV B AT T HYÁ NY U BAJCSY-ZSILINSZKY ÚT P O D MAN IC Z KY U
KAPISZTRÁN
KAPISZTRÁN SZABADSÁG BAJCSY-ZSILINSZKY ÚT NAGYMEZŐ U TERÉZ KÖRÚT
SZABADSÁG
TÉR TÉR DONÁTI U DONÁTI U TÉR TÉR
NAGYMEZŐ U
TERÉZ KÖRÚT
BANK U
BANK U
A N D R Á S SY ÚT
ARANY JÁNOS U A N D R Á S SY ÚT
ARANY JÁNOS U
B EM RAKPAR T
B EM RAKPAR T
S Z ÉCHENYI RAKPART
S Z ÉCHENYI RAKPART
Széchen SZÉCHENYI YI CSÁNYI U
Széchenyiyi
lánchíd SZÉCHEN
lánchíd
CSÁNYI U
Chain Bridge ISTVÁN ISTVÁN ERZSÉBETVÁROS
ERZSÉBETVÁROS
TÉR
J Ó Z S E F AT T I L A U
Chain Bridge TÉR
ORSZÁGHÁZ U TÁRNOK U
ORSZÁGHÁZ U TÁRNOK U
DÍSZ DÍSZ J Ó Z S E F AT T I L A U KIRÁLY U KIRÁLY U Hungarian
AT T I L A Ú T
AT T I L A Ú T
TÉR TÉR CLARK CLARK ERZSÉBET
ERZSÉBET
ÁDÁM ÁDÁM TÉR TÉR DOB U DOB U
K R I S ZTI N A K .
K R I S ZTI N A K .
ALAGÚT U
KRISZTINA TÉR ALAGÚT U TÉR TÉR State Opera
KRISZTINA
PALOTA ÚT
PALOTA ÚT
TÉR JANE H AINING RAKPART D O R OT T YA U WESSELÉNYI U KLAUZÁL U
WESSELÉNYI U KLAUZÁL U
RÁKÓCZI ÚT
SZERVITA Built to rival the opera houses
SZERVITA
TÉR TÉR KÁROLY KRT RÁKÓCZI ÚT
ATTILA ÚT
ATTILA ÚT
PETŐFI S. UKOSSUTH L. U of Vienna and Dresden, the
KÁROLY KRT
DÓZSA DÓZSA F RI E D RI C H B OR N R K P T KOSSUTH L. U
A PÁC Z A I
TÉR TÉR D u n a D u n a JÓZSEFV sublime Hungarian State
JÓZSEFVÁROSÁROS
A PÁC Z A I U
JANE H AINING RAKPART U
D O R OT T YA U PETŐFI S. U
TAB TABÁNÁN ( D a n u b e
BRÓDY SÁNDOR U
SZABAD MÚZEUM KRT BRÓDY SÁNDOR U Opera stages world-class
SZABAD
SAJTÓ ÚT
SAJTÓ ÚT
F RI E D RI C H B OR N R K P T )
( D a n u b e )
KRISZTINA KÖRÚT
KRISZTINA KÖRÚT
DÖBRENTEI VÁ VÁC I U SZERB U performances (see pp32–3).
DÖBRENTEI Erzsébet híd
HEGYALJA Ú T
HEGYALJA Ú T TÉR
TÉR Elizabeth SZERB U SZABÓ E SZENTKIRÁLYI U SZENTKIRÁLYI U
MÚZEUM KRT
Elizabeth
SZABÓ E
Bridge Bridge
VÁMHÁZ KÖRÚT TÉR
VÁMHÁZ KÖRÚT TÉR RÁDAY U RÁDAY U
Erzsébet híd C I U
ÜLLŐI ÚT
ÜLLŐI ÚT
CSARNOK
GELLÉRTT
GELLÉR SZENT GELLÉRT RKPT CSARNOK TÉR LÓNYAY U LÓNYAY U KINIZSI U
KINIZSI U
TÉR
RAOUL WALLENBERG RKPT
RAOUL WALLENBERG RKPT
SZENT GELLÉRT RKPT Szabadság híd
Liberty Bridge KÖZRAKTÁR
Liberty Bridge U
Szabadság híd KÖZR
U AKTÁR
0 metreses
0 metr 500 500
0 yar 0 yardsds 500 500
Hungarian
Great Synagogue National
The largest of its kind Museum
in Europe, Budapest’s Great A treasure-trove
Synagogue was built in 1854–9, of exhibits and
in a Byzantine-style design. artifacts from every
It also houses the Jewish period of Hungary’s
History Museum turbulent history
(see pp36–7). (see pp34–5).
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12 ❯❯ Top 10 Budapest Highlights

Hungarian Parliament

In 1846, the Hungarian poet Mihály Vörösmarty wrote with some
des per ation that “the motherland has no home”. When Hungary
opened its magnificent Parliament building after decades of
construc tion in 1902, it not only had a home, but one of the finest
Neo-Gothic buildings in Europe. The largest parliament building in the
world at the time, it stood as a symbol of Hungarian self-confidence
in the early 20th century. Designed by Imre Steindl, it is one of
Budapest’s defining landmarks, surpassed only by the Royal Palace.
Cross-Danube Vista
1
Sensational close up, the
Hungarian Parliament is arguably even
better from afar. Set along the banks
of the Danube (below), its spires and
symmetry can be admired from the
other side of the river.















National
Crown Jewels
Main Entrance
2 3 4
Assembly Hall
Inspired by
Spirited out of
London’s Houses of Hungary after World The Hungarian
Parliament, and built War II – and stored in Lower House is where
with no expense spared, Fort Knox, USA, until Parlia ment sits. The bullet
the main entrance is 1978 – the Crown of hole above the lectern
guarded by two lions St Stephen and the dates from 1912, when an
sculpt ed by Béla Markup Royal Sceptre are now assassin tried to kill the
and József Somogyi. kept in the Domed Hall. speaker, István Tisza.
Grand
5
Staircase
The sump tuous main
staircase (left) is
decorated with three
outstanding ceiling
frescoes. These include
Károly Lotz’s Glorification
of Hungary, depicting
scenes from the lives
of the country’s kings
and saints.


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Hungarian Parliament ❮❮ 13

Delegation Room
6 IMRE STEINDL
A relic of the Dual Monarchy (see p76), this
was where parliamentar ians met delegates of the Before submitting his
ministries. Its walls have artworks by Andor Dudits, entry for the compet ition
while the ceiling paintings, Wisdom and Fortitude, to design Hungary’s
are by Károly Lotz. Parliament, Imre
Steindl also submitted
Domed Hall 7 designs for a proposed
The spiritual parlia ment in Berlin. His
heart of the building, the plans were rejected, and
Domed Hall (right) was the winning entry was,
once used to host joint of course, Paul Wallot’s
Reichstag. Berlin’s loss
sessions of Parliament. was Hungary’s gain as
Each of the 16 pillars Steindl’s vision resulted
supporting the dome in a masterpiece. He is
features a statue of remembered by a bust,
a Hungarian king or cast by Alajos Stróbl,
queen (see pp14–15). on the main staircase.
The hall is used for
official ceremonies.
The Conquest
8
The finest work of
art here is Munkácsy’s 0
The Conquest. Originally
intended for the Chamber 3 5
of Commons, it was 7 2
rejected as it was thought 6
to misrepresent the first
contact between the
invading Magyars and 4
Pannonian tribes as a 9
peaceful meeting, rather 8
than a heroic conquest.
Prime Minister’s Office
9
The prime minister’s office is
NEED TO KNOW closed to visitors, but you can admire
MAP J1 • V, Kossuth Lajos tér 1–3 • 06 its reception rooms, with 1930s paintings
441 49 04; 06 441 44 15 • Dis. access by Géza Udvary and Antal Diósy.
• http://latogatokozpont.parlament.hu/en
Visitor Centre: Apr–Oct: 8am–6pm daily;
Nov–Mar: 8am–4pm daily. Go to the
visitor centre for more information.
Adm: Ft2,200 for EU residents and
Ft5,400 for all others.
• The only way to see all the building’s
attractions is by guided tour when
Parliament is not in session.
• To book a ticket, call 06 441 49 04
Congress Hall
or 06 441 44 15 (English is spoken), 0
or visit the website. Unused for legislation since 1944,
• There is no café on the premises, but when Hungary became a unicameral
there is one in the visitor centre, and state, the former Hungarian Upper
many more in the surrounding area. House (above) has a rich interior with a
painting by Zsigmond Vajda of the monk
Astrik handing St Stephen his crown.





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14 ❯❯ Top 10 Budapest Highlights

Domed Hall Statues


Béla IV
5
Defeated by the Tatars in 1241,
Béla IV survived to rebuild Hungary
after the Tatars left the country
in ashes a year later. His patient
rebuilding of the nation over the next
25 years elevated him to greatness.
Louis I
6
Crowned in 1342, Louis the
Great reigned for 40 years, expanding
the Magyar kingdom with victories
over Venice and Dalmatia between
1357 and 1358. In 1370, he formed a
political union with Poland after the
death of his uncle, the Polish king
Casimir III, and ruled as sovereign of
both countries until his death in 1382.
János Hunyadi
7
János Hunyadi was born to
Statue of Prince Árpád a Romanian family of Vlach nobles
who had long served the Hungarian
Prince Árpád
1 king Sigismund. A gifted commander,
Hunyadi became the ruler of
Prince Árpád was chosen
as the leader of the Magyar tribes Transyl vania in 1441, and then
shortly after they settled on the Governor of Hungary in 1446. He is
Pannonian plains in AD 896. The best remem bered for defeating the
Magyars migrated from the Ural Turks in the Battle of Belgrade in 1456.
mountains in present-day Russia. Mátyás Corvinus
St Stephen
2 8
The second son of János,
Mátyás was born in Cluj-Napoca,
St Stephen (István) was
elected Duke of the Magyars in Transylvania, and is generally
AD 997. He adopted Christianity considered to be the greatest of all
soon after, and was crowned king Hungarian kings. Crowned in 1458 at
by Pope Sylvester II in 1001. the age of 15, he was a Renaissance
man who valued the sciences, arts
St Ladislaus
3 and architecture, and invited foreign
writers, humanists, musicians and
Hungary’s ruler from 1077
to 1095, Ladislaus was victorious
against the Turks and the Cumans, Domed Hall Statues
and annexed Croatia in 1092.
4 5
András II
4 3
The son of King Béla III
and brother of Emeric, András II 2 6
was crowned in 1205. He greatly 1 7
expanded the Magyar state
east wards, conquering large 8
swathes of Transylvania and 0
encouraging vast numbers of 9
Magyars to settle in the region.
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Hungarian Parliament ❮❮ 15


artists to his court. The first Hungarian
printing press and library were
founded during his 32-year reign.
Charles III
9
In 1687, Hungary finally
succumbed to Austrian domination
and renounced its right to elect its
own king. The Habsburgs inherited
the throne and Charles VI, the last
Holy Roman Emperor of the direct
Habsburg line, became Charles VI
King of Bohemia and Charles III King Interior of the Domed Hall
of Hungary. The king spent much of
his reign ensuring that his daughter, Habsburg Empire. Buda became an
Maria Theresa, would succeed him. imperial city and the magnificent
Habsburg Royal Palace was built
Maria Theresa
0 during the Queen’s reign. The city
became a centre of Central Euro-
Maria Theresa acceded to the
throne in 1740, cementing Hungary’s pean art, second only to Vienna. Maria
position as an integral part of the ruled Hungary until her death in 1780.
THE DOMED HALL
The first section of the Parliament to be TOP 10
com pleted was the Domed Hall in 1896. It was DATES IN THE
used for a special ses sion of Parliament held PARLIAMENT’S
during Budapest’s Millennium Celebrations. HISTORY
The 16-sided dome – which, at 96 m (315 ft), 1 1885 Foundation
is the same height as that of St Stephen’s stone laid, 12 Oct
Basilica – was designed to convey a sense of 2 1896 First session
amplified space. Each of the 16 pillars supporting of Parliament, 15 Mar
the dome bears the statue and coat of arms of 3 1902 Parliament
a significant Hungarian ruler. Apart from the ten building completed
dignitaries mentioned above, the six remain ing 4 1912 Assassin attempts
statues represent (in a clockwise direction) to shoot speaker, 4 Jun
Könyves Kálmán, András III, István Báthory, 5 1920 Treaty of Trianon
István Bocskai, Gábor Bethlen and Leopold II. strips Hungary of two-
thirds of its territory, 4 Jun
6 1944 Hungary becomes
a unicameral republic
7 1956 Armed uprising
breaks out against Soviet
rule, 23 Oct. Soviet tanks
intervene and a new
government is set up
8 1958 Execution of Prime
Minister Imre Nagy, 16 Jun
9 1989 Communists allow
multi-party elections, Oct
10 1990 MPs take their
seats after post-Com munist
Magnificent ceiling of the domed hall elections, 2 May







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16 ❯❯ Top 10 Budapest Highlights

St Stephen’s Basilica

More than worthy of St Stephen (see p40), Main Portal
the Basilica that carries his name is visible 5
The colossal oak
from all over Budapest. Splendidly lit in the front door is deco rated
evening, it is perhaps the most photographed with medallions that
sight in the city. The dome, at 96 m (315 ft), is depict the heads of the
the same height as that of Parliament, whose 12 Apostles. Despite
the door’s age the
builders decided not to go higher. It was built carvings remain an
between 1851 and 1905 in the form of a Greek impressive sight.
cross, and is the work of three archi tects –
József Hild, Miklós Ybl and József Kauser.
Dome and 3
Mosaics
The Neo-Renaissance
dome was designed by
Miklós Ybl in 1867 after
the original dome –
designed by József Hild –
caved in due to poor
work man ship and
materials. It is decorated
with mosaics (right) by
Károly Lotz. A viewing
platform above the cupola
offers panoramic views
of the city; it is reached
by a lift and stairs.
North Tower
Main Altar
1 4
A life-size marble
The 9,144-kg (9-ton)
statue of St Stephen bell in the North Tower
(King István), by sculptor (below) was paid for by
Alajos Stróbl, domi nates German Catholics, who
St Gellért and
the main altar (above) were ashamed that the 6
of the Basilica. On either Nazis had looted the ori- St Emeric
side, fine paintings by ginal at the end of World Alajos Stróbl carved the
the 19th-century artist War II during their retreat statue of St Gellért and
Gyula Benczúr depict from Budapest. The ori- his pupil, St Emeric
scenes from the saint- ginal bell was (St Stephen’s son, Imre),
king’s life. never traced. that stands in a small
nave in the centre of the
Main Entrance
2 main hall. Opposite, the
“I am the way and
statue of St Elizabeth is
the truth and the life” by Károly Senyei.
proclaims the Latin
Figures of the
inscription above the 7
Basilica’s main entrance. 12 Apostles
Situated above the The Basilica’s rear
inscription are several col onnade has 12 superb
statues of Hungarian statues by Leó Feszler
saints paying homage representing the 12
to the Virgin Mary and Apostles. Below is a fine
the infant Jesus. Neo-Classical loggia.
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St Stephen’s Basilica ❮❮ 17

Holy Right Hand
8 ORGAN CONCERTS
The mummified forearm
of St Stephen (left) is displayed The Basilica’s organ was
in the Holy Right Hand Chapel made by Angster & Sons
near the main altar. It was of Pécs, and installed in
taken to Dubrovnik in Croatia 1904. At the time, it was
by Béla IV in the 13th century considered the world’s
to protect it from the Tatars. finest. The organ was
After time in Vienna and at the enlarged in 1934, and
Royal Palace in Buda, it was today comprises no
brought here on 20 August fewer than 5,898 pipes.
1945 – St Stephen’s Day. You can hear it at special
organ concerts, which
are held in the Basilica
from time to time.

7
0
1
8
3
6
5

4 2 9

Gyula Benczúr
0
Painting
The painting St Stephen,
by Gyula Benczúr, is one
of the most important
works in the Hungarian
Treasury
9 artistic cannon. It portrays
A replica of the holy Hungarian crown is the
the king – who died
centrepiece of a small collection of religious jewellery. without an heir –
The original crown is now kept in the Hungarian prof fering the care
Parliament (see pp12–15). Gifts to Hungarian kings of the country and the
from a succession of popes are also on display. crown to the Virgin Mary.
NEED TO KNOW Donations to the main of people who gather
church are welcome but in front of the Basilica.
MAP L2 • V, Szent not mandatory. Guided Arrive early to witness
István tér • 06 317 28 59
• Dis. access • Guided tours: Ft400 (includes the spectacle.
tours: 06 338 21 51; Treasury). Dome viewing • Choose from among
platform: Ft500
[email protected] a number of restaurants
Open 9am–5pm Mon– • Every year on St and cafés located
Fri, 9am–1pm Sat, 1–5pm Stephen’s Day (20 Aug), opposite the Basilica’s
Sun. Treasury and tower: the Holy Right Hand is main entrance.
timings vary. Guided tours: carried by the Basilica’s
10am–3pm Mon–Sat priests past large crowds





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18 ❯❯ Top 10 Budapest Highlights

Váci utca

Váci utca is one of the city’s best-known streets. With two parts –
the northern end for shopping and the southern end for drinking
and eating – it buzzes with life day and night, and acts as the city’s
commercial and social hub. Most of the street is pedestrianized
apart from where it is bisected by the access road to Elizabeth
Bridge. To get a real feel of the street, you should stroll down its
full length.
The
Promenade 4
Walk the full length
of Váci utca (right)
from Vörösmarty tér
to Vámház körút
and on your way take
in the atmosphere,
the bustle and the
stunning architecture
Gerbeaud
1 of the street’s buildings.
Cukrászda
You won’t be alone
This is the most famous during the summer,
coffee house in Budapest. but the crowds are
Since 1858, Gerbeaud a part of the appeal.
Cukrászda (above) has
been known for its richly
decorated interior (see
p57). Expect slow service.
Vörösmarty
2
tér Metro
Thonet House
Station 6
The tiled walls, wooden Built from 1888 to
booths and platforms 1890 by Ödön Lechner
of this immaculate 1903 and Gyula Pártos, Thonet
station remind one why House once belonged to
underground rail ways a wealthy family. Zsolnay
were considered glam­ ceramics (left) adorn
orous. The tiny yellow the walls, while the shop
trains are enchanting too. sells exclusive crystal.
Philanthia
Klotild Palaces
3 5
Forming a splendid entrance to Elizabeth
This Secession­
style florists opened in Bridge, the twin Klotild Palaces (below) were
1905 and now occupies commis sioned by Archduchess Klotild, daughter­in­
part of the Neo­Classical law of Emperor Franz József, and finished in 1902.
block at No. 9. The block Their interiors are mostly shops or offices. They also
was built in 1840 by house the luxurious Buddha­Bar Hotel (see p115).
József Hild and was
once occupied by the
Inn of the Seven Electors,
which had a large
ballroom/concert hall
where a 12­year­old
Franc Liszt performed.


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Váci utca ❮❮ 19

St Michael’s
7 VÁCI UTCA
City Church
First built around 1230, The name of Budapest’s
St Michael’s City Church famous street has simple
(left) was devastated by origins. The street was
the Turks in 1541, rebuilt once the main road linking
in 1701 and renovated Pest to the town of Vác
between 1964 and 1968. (see p65), 40 km (25 miles)
Its plain exte rior belies a north of Budapest. The
rich interior, including a gate leading to Vác used
fine gold pulpit and dome. to stand at Váci utca No. 3.

Herendi
8
Márkabolt
Herendi ceramics are
famous for their intricacy
and quality. This outlet is
one of the few places you
can be sure of finding the
genuine article.
Central
9
Market Hall
Budapest’s largest
market has innumerable
stalls on the ground floor
selling vegetables, fish
and cheese. Specialities
are spicy kolbász salami
and sheep’s cheese. The
upper-level stalls sell
local crafts (see p59).
1000 Tea
NEED TO KNOW 0
Váci utca has lots of places to eat,
MAP C4-C5 drink and while away the hours, but
Gerbeaud Cukrászda: V, Vörösmarty tér 7; a relaxing oasis away from the hustle
06 429 90 00; www.gerbeaud.hu; 9am– and bustle is 1000 Tea. This quiet café
9pm daily has a selection of loose-leaf teas from
Philanthia: Váci utca 9; 0670 933 22 66 all over the world. It is a great place to
rest after a day’s shopping.
Thonet House: Váci utca 11
Herendi Márkabolt: Kígyó utca 5; 2
06 266 63 05; 10am–7pm daily 1
1000 Tea: Váci utca 65; 06 337 82 17 VÖRÖSMARTY
TÉR
5
• Beware of pick pockets operating B E LG R Á D RKP T PETŐFI
APÁCZAI U
the length of Váci utca. Also watch out 3 S. U KOSSUTH 8
L. U
for attractive women inviting men for 6
drinks on this street – the men are 7 Ferenciek
often left with extremely overpriced tere M. U
KÁRO LY I
bar tabs to pay at the end of the night. 4 VÁCI U 0
• Most places here can be expensive, B ELGRÁD RKPT PÁL U KIRÁLYI
and some have dubious pricing policies. Duna (Danube) HAVAS
Make sure prices are clearly indicated on U VÁMHÁZ
KÖRÚT
the menu and check your bill carefully. 9
Map of Váci utca CSARNOK
TÉR
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20 ❯❯ Top 10 Budapest Highlights

Gellért Hotel and Baths

The Gellért Baths is the finest of all the great bath houses in
Budapest. Its main swimming pool is perhaps the best example
of Neo-Classical architecture in Hungary, and is certainly the ideal
place to enjoy Budapest’s warm therapeutic waters. The hotel itself
is a fine Secessionist piece, designed by Ármin Hegedűs, Artúr
Sebestyén and Izidor Sterk, and built between 1912 and 1918.
It was damaged by heavy bombing in World War II and rebuilt
in the late 1940s.
Façade
1
The Gellert’s
Secession-era façade
(below) reflects the self-
confidence of the era in
which it was constructed –
during the final phase
of the Habsburg Empire,
when Hungary was
poised on the verge
of independence.












Main Swimming Pool
4
The stunning Neo-Classical main pool (above)
Main
2 is the finest part of the Gellért baths. Surrounded by
Entrance Hall
high galleries and marble columns, it is decorat ed
With elaborate mosaics with colourful mosaics. Note that it is obligatory
and over-the-top statues, to wear a swimming cap in this part of the baths.
the hotel’s entrance hall
Panorama
is a leap into the past. 5
The staff are patient with Restaurant
visitors who just want to and Terrace
admire the scene. There’s no better place
to enjoy a hearty and
Main Staircase 3 relaxed Sunday brunch
The stained-glass in Budapest than on the
windows (right) on well-shaded, first-floor
the staircase landings restaurant of the Gellért
were designed by Bózó Hotel. The views from
Stanisits. They illustrate here over the Danube
a legend about a magic and the city to the castle
stag, recorded in János and Fishermen’s Bastion
Arany’s poetry. are simply magnificent.

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Gellért Hotel and Baths ❮❮ 21

Gellért
7 HEALING WATERS
Eszpresszó
0 0 This is an old-fashioned Although Budapest is
coffee and teahouse with known for its baths, few
Entrance a mouthwatering range visitors realize the major
4 8 of cakes and pastries. role they play in city life,
9 9 You are served by liveried and how much faith the
0 8 waitresses, and the locals place in the healing
properties of their waters.
6 Viennese-style furniture
2 5 adds to the splendour of For many of the city’s
older residents, the baths
7 3 the place. remain as important as
1 they were under the
Eastern-Style
8 Ottomans, who first
Towers
Although the Gellért is developed the potential
of Budapest’s astonishing
primarily a Secessionist 120-odd thermal springs.
building, its cylindrical, Most of the city’s thermal
Eastern-style towers waters contain high levels
commemorate the of sulphur, and are said to
earlier Turkish baths be especially effective in
that stood on this site. treating rheumatism,
arthritis and even
Thermal Baths 9 Parkinson’s disease.
The medicinal
waters here were first
discovered in the 13th
century during the
reign of King András II.
In the Middle Ages, a
hospital was built on this
spot. Today, there is a
great network of thermal
baths (right) at various
temperatures. Massages
and baths with medical
services are available.
Outdoor Pools
Bath Foyers
6 0
There are three foyers at the
During the summer, bathers
entrance. The central foyer’s glass roof head to the outdoor pools and sun
is the highlight, but the floors, walls, terraces. The main outdoor pool was
statuettes and benches of the others one of the first in the world to have
are also marvellous. You can admire an artificial wave mechanism, which
them without paying to enter the baths. is still in use today.
NEED TO KNOW Adm Ft5,100 weekdays, • Swimming costumes
MAP L6 Ft5,300 weekends (lockers and towels can be hired at
are cheaper than cabins; the baths but are costly, so
Danubius Hotel Gellért: also cheaper within it’s best to bring your own.
XI, Szent Gellért tér 1; 06 3 hours of closing) • Standard entry at Gellért
889 55 00; www.danubius includes access to the
hotels.com/gellert Panorama Restaurant & baths, swimming pool,
Terrace: noon– midnight
Gellért Baths: XI, Kelen- sauna and steam room.
hegyi út 4; 06 466 61 66; summer, 7pm–midnight Special treatments incur
Dis. access; www.budapest winter, closed Mon an additional cost.
spas.hu; 6am–8pm daily Gellért Eszpresszó: 9am–8pm



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22 ❯❯ Top 10 Budapest Highlights

Margaret Island

Inhabited since Roman times, Margaret Island (Margitsziget) is a
tranquil, green oasis in the middle of the Danube. It is named after
Princess Margit, daughter of King Béla IV, who spent most of her
life in the island’s convent in the 13th century. It was also a popular
hunting ground for medieval kings. The island has served as
Budapest’s playground since 1869.
Franciscan
Japanese
2 5
Church
Garden
The secluded ruins of the The most delightful
14th-century Franciscan spot on the island is
church (left) lie in the the Jap an ese Garden
island’s centre. Though (below) at the northern
there is very little left end, with lily pools, rock
to admire, it still has gardens and waterfalls.
a fine arched window
and a staircase.
St Michael’s
3
Church
The oldest building
on Margaret Island,
St Michael’s Church
was founded in the
11th cen tury, but was
devastated by the Turks
in 1541. Visitors today
Dominican
1 can see a 1930s recon- NEED TO KNOW
Convent
struction, which used
One of the island’s most materials salvaged from MAP B1 • Margaret
important monuments the original building. Island (Margitsziget):
is the ruin of a 13th- Budapest XIII
Centenary
century Dominican 4 • The easiest way to get
convent. This was Monument to Margaret Island is by
founded by Béla IV, The striking Modernist bus No. 26 from Nyugati
whose daughter Centenary Monument Station. However, the
Margit came to (left) was installed in most enjoyable way is by
live here in 1251. 1973 to commemorate boat. In summer, public
A plaque in the the unification of Buda, transport boats marked
church marks Óbuda and Pest to D13 run along the
the spot where form Budapest Danube stopping twice
she is buried. in 1873. at the island, near the
Centenary Monument
and the hotels in the
north. Check the
timetable at bkk.hu/en.
• For lunch, head to
Palatinus Strand for
lángos (fried salty dough
with toppings) and hot
dogs. For a formal meal,
visit the Danubius Grand
Hotel Margitsziget.

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Margaret Island ❮❮ 23

Water Tower
Musical
6 8 PRINCESS MARGIT
Fountain
The UNESCO-
protected Water Tower From March to October, (MARGARET)
(below), built in 1911, this fountain leaps into After the horrors of the
also serves as an exhib- action morning and Mongol invasion and
subsequent destruction
ition hall during the night, shooting water of Budapest from 1241 to
summer season. in time to a classical 1242, a desperate King
It stands 57 m (187 ft) piece or pop song. Béla IV offered to give
high, and a gallery Coloured lights are his daughter to God if, in
offers panoramic added for evening return, He would ensure
views of the island. performances. that the Mongols never
returned. In 1251, Béla
made good his vow
and sent his 9-year-
old daughter Margit
to the island’s convent,
where she stayed for
the rest of her life. The
Mongols never returned.
Map of Árpád
híd
Margaret Island
0
5 9
HAJÓS ALFRÉD SÉTÁNY 1
6 3
7 Rózsa-
kert
D u n a 2
( D a n u b e )
8
4
Margit
híd
Bodor Well
0
The unusual
musical Bodor Well
(below) is a copy of
a long-des troyed well,
built in 1820 in Târgu
Mures, Romania. This
copy dates from 1936,
and plays recor ded
music on the hour.
Palatinus
Danubius
7 9
Strand
Grand Hotel
Opened in 1919, the city’s Margitsziget
largest outdoor pool This legendary hotel
complex buzzes from designed by Miklós Ybl
dawn to dusk, as people opened in 1872. For
enjoy the therapeutic years, it was the most
waters pumped from the fashionable in the city,
island’s thermal springs attracting aristocracy
(see p47). There are from all over Europe.
water slides and special Today, it has been joined
pools for the kids. by a sister spa (see p47).
Following pages The Chain Bridge over the Danube


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26 ❯❯ Top 10 Budapest Highlights

Hungarian
National Gallery


The treasure-trove that is the Hungarian
National Gallery has been housed in the
Royal Palace since 1975, when a large section
of the building was given over to it. It displays
pieces from medieval times to the present
day, and there are six permanent exhibitions
that present the cream of Hungarian fine
arts. The Gallery’s collection is shared with
the Museum of Fine Arts (see p95), and is
especially strong in Secession art (see p29).
The Visitation
The Recapture of Buda Castle in 1686
1 6
Nothing is known
Gyula Benczúr painted this masterpiece (below)
for the 1896 Millen nium Cel ebrations. It was meant about Master MS, who
to emphasize the need for Austro-Hungarian rule by was the chief exponent
showing that Hungary was only freed from Turkish rule of late Gothic painting in
thanks to Karl of Lothar ingia and Eugene of Savoy. Hungary. His best work
(above), dated 1500–10,
depicts the Virgin Mary
meeting St Elizabeth.
The Yawning
7
Apprentice
The Yawning Apprentice
(1867) (below) is a well-
known and much-loved
work by Hungary’s finest
Realist, Mihály Munkácsy.
It is celebrated for its
Habsburg
Picnic in May
2 4 extra ordinary detail.
Crypt
Painted from
memory in 1873 by Pál This Crypt, with the
Szinyei-Merse, Picnic exquisite sarcophagus
in May is close to the of Palatine Archduke
French Impressionist Joseph, is a Neo-
style. The figure lying Classical warren of
with his back towards black-and-white marble
us is the artist himself. and gold leaf. It can only
be seen on a guided tour.
Women
3 Great Throne
of Eger
Room
Besides his fine portrait 5
work, Bertalan Székely An entire room of the
painted historical works Gallery is devoted to 15th-
featuring simple, heroic and 16th-century Gothic
Main Entrance
female figures in a altarpieces. The best, 8
roma ntic style. Women painted in 1520, depicts Part of the 18th-
of Eger (1867), portrays St Anne and St John the century Maria Theresa
the women of the town Baptist from a church in Palace, the late Baroque
defending Eger Castle Kisszeben (Sabinov, in façade has an eclectic
against the Turks. present-day Slovakia). range of influences.
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Hungarian National Gallery ❮❮ 27

Birdsong 9
Károly Ferenczy MIHÁLY MUNKÁCSY
was one of Hungary’s Regarded as Hungary’s
finest artists at the turn of finest artist, Mihály
the 19th century. Birdsong Munkácsy began his
(right), painted in 1893, is career making finished
one of his best works. It woodwork. After
sees him move away from com pleting his first
the “delicate naturalism” major painting in 1869,
made famous by French when he was just 25, he
artists like Jules Bastien- moved to Paris, where
Lepage and towards his he painted a series of
masterpieces including
own distinct style. The Churning Woman
and Woman Carrying
The Visitation 6 Brushwood, both now
9 Birdsong in the National Gallery.
He died in 1900 at the
age of 55 in Paris.

0 Woman Bathing
3 Women of Eger
2 Picnic in May
Key to Floorplan
Ground floor
1st floor
2nd floor
3rd floor
Woman
Bathing 0
Nudes were a speciality
of Károly Lotz, who
painted this particularly
sensuous figure in 1901.
5 Great Throne A fine example of
Room
academic painting, it
4 evokes the style of the
Main Entrance 8 Habsburg French artist, Ingres.
Crypt Lotz is also known for
1 7 the murals in the
The Recapture of The Yawning
Buda Castle in 1686 Apprentice Hungarian Parliament
(see pp12–14).
NEED TO KNOW Adm Ft1,800; audio guide information and booking,
MAP H4 • Buda Castle, in English available for call 06 201 90 82.
Royal Palace buildings A, B, select collections, Ft800 • In 2018, part of the
C and D • 06 201 90 82; • A free guided tour of the 19th- and 20th-century
0620 439 73 31 • Dis. permanent collection is collections is expected
access at building A available in English from to move to a new gallery
• www.mng.hu
2pm every Thursday and building in the Városliget
Open 10am–6pm Tue–Sun. 11am every Saturday. For (City Park).







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28 ❯❯ Top 10 Budapest Highlights

Secession Works in the Gallery


Woman
Girls Getting
1 4
Dressed
in a White-
Spotted Dress This 1912 Rippl-Rónai work
József Rippl-Rónai (1861– shows the pro gression of
1927) was one of the three his characteristic “corn
most imp ortant artists of kernels” style, where his
the Secession movement. brush strokes became
He studied for several bolder and his colours
years in Paris, at a time brighter. The somewhat
when the Art Nouveau awkward pose of the girl
movement was starting to on the left betrays the
flourish. His masterpiece artist’s love of playing with
Woman in a White-Spotted the viewer’s perception.
Dress (1889) depicts the
The Golden Age
somewhat affected pose 5
of a model apparently The second
caught off-guard. It is said of Hungary’s great
to have been the first Seces sion ist triumvirate,
Secession-style work János Vaszary (1867–
painted in Hungary. Woman in a White- 1939) oscillated between
Spotted Dress Art Nouveau and Post-
Woman with
2 work is probably this 1898 rendition of
Impressionism. His best
a Birdcage
An early painting by Rippl-Rónai, a couple yearning for a lost paradise.
Woman with a Birdcage (1892) is
renowned for its marvellous use of
contrast – note the white of the girl’s
hands compared to the blurred, dark
background. The slightly contrived
pose of the model holding the cage
is a trademark of the artist.
The Manor House
3
at Körtvélyes
Rippl-Rónai visited Italy in 1904 and
was fascinated by the decorative
mosaics he saw in many homes.
This 1907 work anticipates his shift
from soft brushwork to bolder
strokes, which would culminate
in the paintings of his later years. Fancy Dress Ball
Fancy Dress Ball
6
Vaszary’s brightly coloured
1907 portrayal of Budapest society
has a touch of decadence. Notice the
man’s leer and the licentious pose.
Breakfast in the Open Air
7
This painting by Vaszary makes
fabulous use of light and colour.
At first glance, it seems to be a
The Manor House at Körtvélyes sym pathetic depiction of Budapest


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Hungarian National Gallery ❮❮ 29


society. Yet the indifference of the of Hungary’s famous Secessionist
girl’s parents towards her behaviour trio. His style and approach were
could be interpreted as a criticism of greatly influenced by spending
societal values at the time. 13 years in Italy, where he painted
The Garden of the Magician. His
Riders in the Park
8 output also shows echoes of the
Dating from 1919, this
English Pre-Raphaelites, particularly
is another fine example the work of Dante
of late Secessionist Gabriel Rossetti.
paint ing by Vaszary, with
Self-Portrait
sharp brushstrokes 0
and high contrast with Hat
colours. The influence Lajos Gulácsy’s Self-
of Matisse, whom he Portrait with Hat (1912)
knew from his sojourns reinforces his rather
in Paris, is clearly detached view of the
visible in this work. world and, perhaps,
his lack of belief in his
The Garden
9 own abilities. In the
of the
painting, his face is
Magician wearing an anxious
Lajos Gulácsy (1882– The Garden of and vul nerable
1932) was the youngest the Magician expression.
THE SECESSION
From its quiet beginnings among avant-garde TOP 10
artists in Vienna in the late 1880s, until it gave SECESSIONIST
way to Art Deco in the 1920s, the Secession BUILDINGS
movement was an attempt to break away from 1 Four Seasons Hotel
the romantic historicism of 19th-century art. Gresham Palace (Map K3)
It tried to find new inspiration in the distant 2 Danubius Gellért Hotel
past; in Hungary it explored the bold colours (Map L6)
of Transylvanian folk art. Often characterized 3 Museum of Applied
by fantastical designs, bright colours and Arts (Map D5)
stylized forms, the movement repossessed 4 Geology Institute
art from the nationalists. It encompassed all (Map F3)
forms of the decorative and visual arts, from 5 Hungarian National
painting and sculpture to interior design. It is Bank (Map K2)
represented in the paintings of the National 6 Post Office Savings
Gallery, in the Zsolnay ceramics all round the Bank (Map L2)
city and, above all, in the architecture of the day.
7 Városliget Calvinist
Church (Map E3)
8 Franz Liszt Academy
of Music (Map D3)
9 New York Palace (Map D4)
10 New Theatre (Map M2)
Gresham Palace is now
a hotel, and is famous for
its Secessionist stained
glass and mosaics (see
p83 & p116).







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30 ❯❯ Top 10 Budapest Highlights

Mátyás Church

The profusion of architectural styles in Mátyás Church reveals the
building’s and the city’s troubled history. The original church was
destroyed in 1241 and a new church, part of Béla IV’s fortified city, was 7
built from 1255 to 1269. Much of this Gothic building remains, but it
was Mátyás Corvinus, the church’s namesake, who expanded it in 6
the 15th century. The final phase of restoration took place in 1873–96, 1
when Frigyes Schulek redesigned it in the Neo-Baroque style. 2
Rose Window
2
The Neo-Gothic
Rose Window (left)
over the Main Portal
was recreated by
Schulek after he
found fragments of
an earlier window
during the 19th-
century restoration
of the church. The
original had been bricked
up in the Baroque period.
Altar
Béla Tower
1 The early 3
Named after
Béla IV, the stout Béla Gothic-style altar (right)
Tower retains a number features a replica of
of its original Gothic the holy Hungarian
features, though the crown atop a statue of
spire and turrets are the Virgin Mary. A shrine
all recon structions. to the Madonna, it was
Note how the tower is designed by Schulek
the least embellished and completed
part of the church. in 1893.
Loreto Chapel and Baroque Madonna 4
Legend has it that in 1686, the Madonna (right)
appeared before the Turks defending Buda Castle,
who saw it as a sign of imminent defeat. Habsburg
troops took the castle that very night.

NEED TO KNOW upcoming classical
• MAP H2 • I, Szenthár­ concerts, held two or
omság tér 2 • 06 489 07 16 three evenings a week
• Guided tours available during the summer, is
• Dis. access • www. available at the main
matyas­templom.hu entrance to the church. Mary Portal
The finest example
Open 9am–5pm Mon–Fri, • Ruszwurm, one of 5
9am–1pm Sat, 1–5pm Budapest’s most historic of Gothic stone carving
Sun. Adm Ft1,500. Closed cafés (see p72), is just in Hungary, this portal
for mass and events.
across the square and was rebuilt by Schulek
• A programme giving a short walk along in the 19th century, using
times and dates of all Szentháromság utca. surviving fragments of
the original building.



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Mátyás Church ❮❮ 31

Sunday Mass
8
3 The church’s two KING MÁTYÁS
1909 Rieger organs are One of the greatest
the finest in Hungary, and figures in Hungarian
Sunday Mass (at 10am) history, King Mátyás
7 9 features the organs and is often claimed by both
the church’s choir. A well- Romanians and Serbs as
5 being one of their own.
6 known centre of spiritual What’s certain is that
music, the church also Matei Corvin, as he is
1 4 plays host to more than known in Romania, was
2 100 concerts a year. born in Cluj-Napoca, in
present-day Romania.
He was the son of János
Hunyadi, who in turn
was the grandson of
native Serbs. His family
origins remain to this
day one of the main
causes of tension
between Hungarian
and Romanian
histo rians (see p14).
Stained-Glass
9
Windows
Designed by Frigyes
Schulek and painted by
Károly Lotz, the three
windows on the church’s
southern side depict the
Virgin Mary’s life, the
family of Béla IV and
the life of St Elizabeth
of Árpádház, who was
married at 13, widowed
at 19 and died at 24.
Roof
Hidden Images
6 0
of King Louis
The splendid multicoloured
Enter the church through tiled roof (below) was added
the main portal and turn between 1950 and 1970. The
and look up to see original roof, a plain affair, burnt
images of King Louis the down after Soviet shelling during
Great and his wife on the the siege of Buda in 1944–5.
uppermost pillar beside
the portal. They date
from the 14th century.
Tomb of King
7
Béla III and
Anne de Châtillon
Schulek designed this
elaborate tomb after the
mortal remains of Béla III
and his first wife were
found during excavations
at Székesfehérvár
Cathedral in 1862.




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32 ❯❯ Top 10 Budapest Highlights

Hungarian State Opera

Nowhere in Budapest is the ancien regime as alive and well as at
the Hungarian State Opera, architect Miklós Ybl’s magnum opus.
A Neo-Renaissance masterpiece built in 1884, when money was
no object, its interior is a study in opulence and grandeur. A rival
to any opera house in the world, its roll call of musical directors
reads like a who’s who of Central European music – Ferenc Erkel,
Gustav Mahler, Otto Klemperer, among others.
Foyer Murals
4
Painted by
Bertalan Székely and
Mór Than, the foyer’s
sensational murals
cover the entire ceiling
and depict the nine
Muses and other
allegorical scenes.
Main Stage
Façade
During the building
1 5
The passage of
of the Opera, the Vienna
time has been kind to Ring Theatre was des-
Andrássy út, and the troyed by fire. As a safety
Hungarian State Opera measure, an iron safety
is not as hemmed in as curtain and all-metal
many of the city’s other stage hydraulics plus
significant buildings. a sprinkler system were
While in no way unique, installed, making the
the façade (above) of Hungarian Opera the
colonnades, balconies most modern theatre
and loggias is impressive. in the world at that time.
Main Entrance
Statues of Liszt and Erkel
2 6
The busts of Hungary’s two greatest
Stand under the
Hungarian State Opera’s composers – Franz Liszt and Ferenc Erkel –
sublime entrance with stand guard on either side of the entrance. Both
its muralled ceilings, and were sculpted by Alajos Stróbl, who was responsible
you will imme diately for much of the building’s interior design.
wish you were part of
19th-century Budapest
society, stepping out of
a horse-drawn carriage
to attend a premiere.
Foyer 3
The foyer (right)
is a wonderful riot
of murals, columns,
chandeliers and gilded
vaulted ceilings.
Ostentation to rival
Vienna was the order of
the day, and Ybl did not
disappoint his patrons.


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Hungarian State Opera ❮❮ 33

Main Staircase
8 BÁNK BÁN
A red carpet covers
the marble stairs (left) Hungary’s most famous
beneath a huge chande­ opera, Bánk Bán, was
lier in another of the written by Ferenc Erkel
Hungarian State Opera’s and premiered in 1861.
classic set pieces. The The story begins with
gilded ceiling panels Otto, brother of Queen
contain nine paintings (by Gertrud, who plans to
Than) of the awakening seduce the wife of a faith-
and triumph of music. ful Hungarian viceroy,
Bánk. The knight Biberach
tells Bánk of Otto’s
evil scheme, and Bánk
decides to join in a rebel-
lion against the court.
Rarely performed today,
it was made into a film
by Csaba Káel in 2001.
Chandelier
0
Above the audi­
torium, a fine 2,722­kg
(3­ton) Mainz chandelier
(left) illuminates a
magnificent fresco by
Károly Lotz of the Greek
gods on Olympus. The
chimney located above
it facilitates ventilation.
6 2
1
4 3
Royal Box
Museum
7 9 8 4
9
The museum
Ybl always insisted
that the Royal Box was houses memorabilia of 7
his finest achievement. famous performers who 0
With sculptures that have graced this stage.
symbolize the four Sándor Svéd, a renowned 5
oper atic voices – soprano, Hungarian baritone who
alto, tenor and bass – it performed at New York’s
is in the centre of a circle Metropolitan for years,
of three­tiered boxes. features prominently.
NEED TO KNOW • View the façade, the main watching a show. Concert
MAP M2 • VI, Andrássy entrance and the foyer tickets are usually cheaper
út 22 • 06 814 71 00; Box throughout the day, as the than in Western Europe, but
office: 06 814 72 25; Guided ticket office is open daily for lower prices, visit the
tours: 06 332 81 97 • Dis. from 11am to 5pm. To see Erkel Theatre, at II. János Pál
access • www.opera.hu the rest of the building, join pápa tér 30 (06 332 61 50).
• www.operavisit.hu a guided tour. • There is a great coffee
• The very best way to bar, Balettcipő, nearby at
Guided tours: 3pm & 4pm
daily; Ft2,900 see the Opera House is by 14 Hajós utca.





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34 ❯❯ Top 10 Budapest Highlights

Hungarian
National Museum


Since its founding in 1802, this fascinating museum has been
home to Hungary’s finest collection of art, artifacts and
documents relating to the country’s troubled history. The
building is a timeless piece of Neo-Classical architecture
designed by Mihály Pollack, while the impressive interior
has frescoes by Károly Lotz and Mór Than.


Processional
6
Crucifix
This crucifix (above)
from Szerecseny was
made in the 12th century. 4
A similar piece is in the Electioneer-
March in
St Stephen Museum in Front of the
Székesfehérvár; the two National
are likely to have origi­ Museum
nated from the same
workshop. In Hungary,
many such crucifixes
Electioneer-
Monomachos
1 4 were found in churches
March in Front
Crown
destroyed during the
The exquisitely crafted of the National Tatar invasion in 1241.
crown (above) is made Museum
Sabretache
of gold plaques that date As the title suggests, this 7
from between 1042 pre­Secession painting by Plate, Galgóc
and 1050. The gold Franz Weiss shows the This plate is one of the
leaf is decorated with political campaigning of finest examples of the
allegories of the Great reformists and conser va­ palmette ornamental
Virtues, which were tives between 1847 and style of the Conquest
popular in Byzan tine art. 1848, when, unlike most period. In the shaman­
Western nations, Hungary istic beliefs of the time,
Coronation
2 was still characterized by palmettes symbolized
Mantle
the Tree of Life.
feudalism.
This silk gown with the
figures of Christ and the
Apostles was given to a
church in Székesfehér vár
by St Stephen in 1031.
It was later a coronation
coat for Hungarian kings.
Funeral Crown
3
Found in Margaret
Island’s church in 1838,
this golden crown dates
Mozart’s Clavichord
from the 13th century 5
and was worn by This travelling clavichord (above) was bought
a female member for the young Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart by his
of an Árpád family father, Leopold Mozart. It was used by the child
on her deathbed. prodigy to practise upon during their concert tours.
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Hungarian National Museum ❮❮ 35



FERENC AND ISTVÁN
SZÉCHENYI
The National Museum
may not have existed
Diadem
8 at all without the vast
collection of art and
Dating from the Hun period in the 5th century
AD, the stunning gold diadem (above) is the most artifacts donated in
ancient of its kind. It was found in Csorna and is 1802 by Count Ferenc
studded with 158 Széchényi, who also
established the National
precious stones. 9 Red Engine Library. His equally
Mozart’s illustrious son, Count
Clavichord 6 Processional István Széchenyi, is
5 Crucifix regarded as one of the
greatest Hungarians.
An aristocratic
polymath, István wrote
several treatises for the
betterment of peasants,
4 advocated land
Electioneer- reform, dabbled
March in in revolutionary
Front of the Monomachos
National Crown politics and
Museum 1 even paid for the
country’s first railway.
Coronation 8 Diadem
Mantle
2 Key to Floorplan
1st floor
2nd floor
3
Golden Stag
Funeral 0
Crown An almost flawless
hand-forged figure from
the 6th century BC, the
Golden Stag (below)
7
Sabretache was part of a Scythian
Golden 0 Plate, Galgoc prince’s shield.
Stag
Red Engine
9 Painted by Sándor Bortnyik,
this Cubist-style work is a fine
example of activist art from the
first quarter of the 20th century.
Bold colours such as red and blue
have been contrasted with white to
highlight the sense of movement.
NEED TO KNOW and over 62; free for the Middle Ages, and the
MAP M5 • VIII, Múzeum over-70s second floor houses exhibits
körút 14–16 • 06 338 21 22 • The Hungarian National dating from the 11th
• Dis. access Museum is set on three century to the present day.
• www.mnm.hu • There is a good café at
levels. The basement has
Open 10am–6pm Tue– a Roman mosaic, the first the Múzeum Kávéház és
Sun. Adm Ft1,600; Ft800 floor is home to exhibits Étterem (see p93), next to
for EU residents under 26 from the 5th century BC to the National Museum.




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36 ❯❯ Top 10 Budapest Highlights

Great Synagogue

Europe’s largest synagogue was built in a Byzantine-Moorish style
to the designs of Viennese architect Ludwig Förster between 1854
and 1859. Accommodating more than 3,000 worshippers, it also
features a museum packed with historical relics and Judaic
devo tional items, and a moving Holocaust Memorial.

Chandeliers 3
The two Spanish-
style chandeliers (right)
above the main aisle
are similar to those at
the Hungarian State
Opera House: the design
was common in concert
halls throughout Europe
at the time.
Organ
4
Concerts
The original 5,000-pipe
Twin Towers,
1 organ – installed in 1859
Onion Domes
and played by Franz Liszt
The Great Synagogue during the synagogue’s
was the first in Europe to dedication ceremony –
feature Oriental-inspired, was replaced with a
Moorish towers (above), mechanical organ in
complete with Byzantine 1996. Concerts are held
onion domes. The towers regularly through out
are 43 m (140 ft) high. the summer.







Rose Windows
5
The rose window
set into the façade
above the main entrance
is a reference to the
archi tecture of Hungary’s
medieval churches.
Menorah
6
Paving
Upper Galleries
2 A Menorah is depicted on
the ground in front of the
When built, the highly ornamented upper
galleries (above) were designed for women who, synagogue. Most visitors
according to tradition, had to worship separately. focus on the building, so
Today all worshippers sit downstairs. it often goes unnoticed.


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Great Synagogue ❮❮ 37



RAOUL WALLENBERG
Swedish diplomat Raoul
Wallenberg is credited
with saving as many
as 100,000 Hungarian
Jews during 1944–5,
mainly by issuing them
with Swedish travel
docu ments. Wallenberg
Jewish History
8 also negotiated directly
with Major-General
Museum
Added in 1931, this Gerhard Schmidthuber,
head of the German
museum (above) is home forces in Hungary, to
to a collection of historical prevent the planned
Judaica from ancient liquidation of the
Rome to the 20th century. Budapest Ghetto early
In the rear court yard in January 1945. Days
there is a memorial to later however, after the
the 600,000 Hungarian Red Army had occupied
Jews killed during the Budapest, Wallenberg
Holocaust. It is dedicated was arrested as a spy
to Raoul Wallenberg. by the Soviet Union
and taken to Moscow’s
Lubianka Prison. He is
believed to have died of
a heart attack there in
1947. He was declared
Righteous Among the
Nations by the Israeli
government in 1996.
A memorial to Raoul
Wallenberg stands on
the corner of Szilágyi
Erzsébet fasor and
Nagyajtai utca (Map N1).
The Ark
9 NEED TO KNOW
The Ark (above)
contains a number of MAP D4 • VII, Dohány
scrolls saved from other utca 2 • 06 462 04 77
synagogues and hidden Open Mar–Oct: 10am–
by Hungarian Catholic 6pm Sun–Thu, 10am–
Inscription
7 priests from the Nazis 4pm Fri (1–28 Mar: to
Above the
during World War II.
3:30pm Fri); Nov–Feb:
Main Entrance 10am–4pm Sun–Thu,
Engraved in gold over 10am–2pm Fri. Hourly
the entrance is a verse tours in several languages
in Hebrew from the from 10:30am. Adm
book of Exodus: “And • Tours of the Jewish
let them make me a Neighbourhood run six
sanc tuary that I may times a day (Sun–Fri).
dwell among them.”
• Kádár Étkezde,
The Ten Commandments 0 two blocks north, is a
Two stone tablets (above) sit atop the popular eatery offering
synagogue and are engraved in Hebrew Jewish-Hungarian
with the Ten Commandments. cuisine (see p93).


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The Top 10

of Everything












The thermal pool and Neo-Baroque
buildings of Széchenyi Baths













































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(SourceReport v.1)
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Date 22nd April 2015
Size 100mm x 191mm

Moments in History 40 Restaurants 54
Museums and Galleries 42 Cafés, Pubs and Bars 56
Places of Worship 44 Shops and Markets 58
Baths and Swimming Pools 46 Budapest for Free 60
Danube Sights 48 Festivals and Events 62
Off the Beaten Track 50 Day Trips from Budapest 64
Children’s Attractions 52




















































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40 ❯❯ The Top 10 of Everything

Moments in History


1687: The Beginning of
AD 409: Huns Conquer
1 4
Aquincum
the Age of the Habsburgs
Established in the area that now lies The Habsburgs became rulers of
on the city’s northern periphery, Hungary more by stealth than
Aquincum (see p101) was conquest. They completed their
an important town and takeover in 1687, when the
military garrison in Hun garians gave up their
the Roman province right to elect their king,
of Pannonia. It was and ceded the crown to the
conquered by the Huns in Habsburg Empire. In one
AD 409, and subsequently guise or another, they
ruled by the Goths, the ruled Hungary until 1918.
Longobards and the Avars. 1849: Chain
5
AD 896: Árpád
Bridge Links
2 Buda and Pest
Leads the Magyars
into Pannonia The first permanent
Prince Árpád led the bridge over the Danube,
nomadic Magyars – tribes the Chain Bridge was
which originated in the Prince Árpád, leader designed by Englishman
Urals and inhabited an of the Magyars William Tierney Clark,
area east of the River and built by a Scotsman,
Tisza – into Pannonia in AD 896. He Adam Clark. Its completion in 1849
settled first on Csepel Island, in the allowed the unification of Buda,
middle of the Danube in southern Óbuda and Pest 24 years later.
Budapest, and later in Óbuda
1916: Charles IV
(meaning Ancient Buda in Hungarian). 6
Crowned Last King
1000: Stephen I
3 of Hungary
Crowned King
On the death of Emperor Franz József
Stephen (István) was the first Magyar in 1916, Charles IV became king of
to accept Christianity and, for doing Hungary. He abdicated in Novem ber
so, the pope crowned him king. 1918 and, despite attempting to
He cemented the Árpád dynasty, regain the throne in 1919 after the
which lasted a further 300 years. defeat of Béla Kun’s Commu nists,
he was exiled to
Madeira, Portugal,
where he died in 1922.
1944: The
7
Budapest
Ghetto is Created
In 1944, the Nazis and
their Hungarian allies,
the Arrow Cross, herded
over 70,000 Jews into
the area around the
Great Synagogue (see
pp36–7). Though well
over 20,000 Jews died,
50,000 survived and were
liberated by the Soviet
Coronation of King Stephen I army in February 1945.
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Moments in History ❮❮ 41

1956: The Hungarian
8 TOP 10 GREAT HUNGARIANS
Uprising
Following mass anti-Soviet 1 István Széchenyi (1790–1860)
demonstrations in October 1956, Leader of modernization and economic
the Hungarian Communist Party’s reforms in the 19th century, given the
Central Committee elected the epithet “The Greatest Hungarian”.
popular politican Imre Nagy as prime 2 Mihály Vörösmarty (1800–55)
minister. On 4 November, however, 19th-century poet and author of the
just 18 days after he assumed office, epic The Flight of Zalán.
the Soviet army invaded Hungary and 3 Ferenc (Franz) Liszt (1811–86)
crushed the new regime. Nagy was Hungarian composer, regarded by
arrested and executed in 1958. many as the best pianist of all time.
4 Miklós Ybl (1814–91)
Architect whose work includes
the peer less Hungarian State
Opera (see pp32–3).
5 Sándor Petőfi (1823–49)
Nationalist poet whose recital of his
poem Nemzeti Dal (National Song) and
the “12 pont” (12 points) on the steps
of the National Museum in 1848
sparked a revolt (see p34).
6 Béla Bartók (1881–1945)
One of the most important composers
of the 20th century. He also collected
and studied folk music.
7 László Bíró (1899–1985)
Crowds support the proclamation Eccentric journalist who invented the
of the Republic of Hungary world’s first ballpoint pen in 1939.
8 Attila József (1905–37)
1989: The People’s
9 Radical poet who wrote of love
Republic Comes
and despair.
to a Peaceful End 9 Ferenc Puskás (1927–2006)
Anticipating the changes that would Footballer who led the great Hun-
eventually sweep through the whole garian team of the 1950s (see p102).
of Eastern Europe, Communist 10 István Szabó (b. 1938)
authorities in Hungary sanctioned Film director who received an Oscar
the creation of opposition political for his film Mephisto in 1981.
parties in February 1989. The
People’s Republic of Hungary
became the Republic of Hungary
in October, and in March 1990,
free elections were held for the
first time since 1947.
2004: Hungary Joins
0
the European Union
After ten years of negotiations,
Hungary became a full member
of the European Union on 1 June
2004. The occasion was marked
with days of celebrations throughout
the country, and was greeted
positively by most of the population.
Hungary had pre viously become a Ferenc (Franz) Liszt
member of NATO in 1999.






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42 ❯❯ The Top 10 of Everything

Museums and Galleries


Jewish Museum
Museum of Fine Arts
1 2
Housed in a Neo­Classical
MAP M4 • VII, Dohány utca 2
• 06 342 89 49 • Open Mar–Oct: building, the Museum of Fine Arts
10am–6pm Sun–Thu, 10am–4:30pm has a fine collection of pieces from
Fri; Nov–Feb: 10am–4pm Sun–Thu, all artistic eras and genres. Raphael,
10am–2pm Fri • Closed Jewish hols Toulouse­Lautrec, Picasso and
• Adm • www.milev.hu Goya all feature, and there are
Budapest’s proud Jewish community also col lections of ancient Egyptian
is based around the Great Synagogue and Greek art. Closed for renovation
(see pp36–7), and the Jewish Museum until 2018 (see p95).
can be found in a wing to the left of the
Museum of
Synagogue’s main entrance. Estab­ 3
lished in 1931, it is home to thousands Military History
of historic relics and devotional items. MAP A3 • I, Tóth Árpád sétány 40
There is also a room devoted to the • 06 326 16 00 • Open Apr–Sep:
Holocaust and, in the courtyard, a 10am–6pm Tue–Sun; Oct–Mar:
memorial to the 600,000 Hungarian 10am–4pm Tue–Sun • Adm
Jews who were killed by the Nazis. Uniforms, flags, maps, weapons
and photographs document the
many battles that have been fought
in Budapest. The museum is
especially effective when it tells the
story of the 1956 National Uprising,
and of the many Hungarians who
subsequently lost their lives in the
repression that followed.
Ludwig Museum
4
Budapest – Museum
of Contemporary Art
MAP P2 • IX, Palace of Arts,
Komor Marcell utca 1 • 06 555 34
Artifacts in the Jewish Museum 44 • Open 10am–6pm Tue–Sun
• Closed Mon • Adm
ÚJPESTI RAKPART ÚJLIPÓTVÁROS Hősök If the dazzling splendour
4km Lehel tér LEHEL U • www.ludwigmuseum.hu
Nyugati tere of the Habsburg Empire
Pályaudvar PODMANICZKY U ANDRÁSSY ÚT
MARGIT KÖRÚT BEM J. U FŐ U LIPÓTVÁROS TERÉZVÁROS and the Secession
SZENT ISTVÁN KÖRÚT
become too much for you,
FASOR
CSALOGÁNY U Vörösmarty VÁROSLIGETI
Batthyány utca head for this museum for
Széll Kálmán ter tér Kossuth TERÉZ KÖRÚT a refreshingly vibrant
VÍZIVÁROS tér BAJCSY-ZSILINSZKY ÚT NAGYMEZŐ U KIRÁLY U ROTTENBILLER U
VÁR FŐ U Opera display of modern
Hungarian art. More than
ERZSÉBETVÁROS Blaha 150 works dating from
6 U
Duna
Lujza tér
OKTÓBER
Deák tér RÁKÓCZI ÚT 1960 onwards document
ERZSÉBET KRT
ATTILA ÚT
MÉSZÁROS U ATTILA ÚT FRIEDRICH BORN RKPT BELGRÁD RAKPART Ferenciek Astoria NÉPSZÍNHÁZ U the progression of
BÉCSI U
JÓZSEFVÁROS
Hun garian artists as they
tere
KRISZTINA KÖRÚT
TABÁN
(Danube)
BELVÁROS attempted to break out
HEGYALJA ÚT Kálvin BAROSS U of Socialist Realism.
NAPHEGY JÓZSEF KÖRÚT
Fővám tér Corvin There are also a num ber
GELLÉRT tér Negyed
0 metres 1000 SZENT GELLÉRT RKPT ÜLLŐI ÚT of works by international
contemporary artists,
Szent
0 yards 1000 Gellért tér 1km and changing exhibitions.
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Museums and Galleries ❮❮ 43

Hungarian National
8
Gallery
Over 10,000 exhibits make the
National Gallery’s collection one
of the greatest in the world. Spread
across much of the Royal Palace,
almost every significant Hungarian
work of art from medieval times to
the present day is displayed here
(see pp26–9).
Museum of Ethnography
9
Designed by Alajos
Hauszmann, and built as the Ministry
of Justice in 1893–6, this opulent
building has been home to the
Hungarian National Museum interior Museum of Ethnography since 1947.
The museum’s collection includes
Hungarian
5 costumes, toys and furnishings
National Museum
and paints a fascinating picture
Founded on the personal of everyday life at various points
collection of philanthropist in Hungarian history (see p80).
Count Ferenc Széchenyi, the The museum is due to move
National Museum has been to new premises in late 2017.
home to a stunning array
Budapest
of Hungarian artifacts 0
since 1802, and History Museum
the building is a Set in the labyrinthine rooms
master piece in its of the castle, the layout of this
own right (see pp34–5). museum can be tricky to
Exhibit at the navigate. Do persevere, as it
Museum of
Museum of
6 Ethnography gives fascinating insights into
Applied Arts
the history of the city. Its real
An outstanding museum strength is in covering the
displaying a wide range of decorative story of the castle itself, starting with
arts objects, including Oriental rugs, the ruins of the medieval castle in
Zsolnay ceramics and Secessionist the Palace basement (see p69).
furniture. First opened in 1896 for
Budapest’s Millennium Celebrations,
it is housed in a superb Secessionist
building designed by Ödön Lechner
(see p90).
Vasarely Museum
7
MAP P1 • III, Szentlélek tér 6
• 06 388 75 51 • Check website for
opening hours • www.vasarely.hu
Born Győző Vásárhelyi, Victor
Vasarely was the founder of the
Op Art movement in Paris in the
1930s. This museum, based in
Zichy Palace (see p51), is ded icated
to his life and work but is closed for
renovation until 2017.
Budapest History Museum




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44 ❯❯ The Top 10 of Everything

Places of Worship


Batthyány Kossuth tér the stage for a number of seminal
tér BÁTHORY U
BAJCSY-ZSILINSZKY ÚT ANDRÁSSY ÚT of Franz József I in 1867 and
LIPÓTVÁROS NAGYMEZŐ U events, including the marriage of
Arany J.u. King Mátyás, and the coronations
6 U
Duna
S Z É C H E N YI R K P T
OKTÓBER
út
VÁR FŐ U Széchenyi JÓZSEF ATTILA U Bajcsy-Zs. Charles IV in 1916 (see pp30–31).
VÍZIVÁROS BEM RAKPART
lánchíd Inner City Parish Church
Deák tér
Vörösmarty 3
tér PETŐ FI S. U Almost destroyed to make
way for Elizabeth Bridge (see p48)
LÁNCHÍD U
Ferenciek when it was being rebuilt after World
ATTILA ÚT
KÁROLY KÖRÚT
(Danube)
tere
Astoria
KRISZTINA KÖRÚT
TABÁN Erzsébet BELVÁROS War II, the Inner City Parish Church
FRIEDRICH BORN RKPT
HEGYALJA ÚT híd BELGRÁD RKPT Kálvin was miraculously saved when the
tér
builders had a last-minute change
KÖRÚT
GELLÉRT SZENT GELLÉRT Fővám VÁMHÁZ of heart. The oldest building in Pest,
RKPT
tér dating from the 14th century, it was
0 metres 500 Szabadság
híd damaged by fire in 1723 and rebuilt
0 yards 500 Szent Gellért tér by György Pauer in 1725–39. Don’t
miss the elegantly vaulted Gothic
St Stephen’s Basilica
1 chapel (see p89).
The grandest of Budapest’s
Great Synagogue
many spectacular churches is 4
fittingly named after the country’s Completed in 1859, this is
first king, St Stephen. Built in the the largest synagogue in Europe.
latter part of the 19th century, it Its design displays the desire of
dominates the city skyline and 19th-century Jews to assimilate into
can be seen from most parts Hungarian society. The twin towers,
of Budapest (see pp16–17). for example, are clearly inspired by
Christian church steeples. During
Mátyás Church
2 World War II, the synagogue was
used as a detention centre and also
Mátyás Church has been
bound up with Budapest history acted as the centre of the Budapest
since the 13th century. It has been ghetto (see pp36–7).
Impressive nave of the Great Synagogue




Eyewitness Travel – Top 10 series LAYERS PRINTED:
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Places of Worship ❮❮ 45


without charm. Superb acoustics
make it a popular venue for classical
and organ concerts.
Franciscan Church
9
MAP L4 • V, Ferenciek tere 9
• 06 317 33 22 • Open 5:30am–noon,
4–7:45pm daily
Founded in the 13th century, the
Franciscan Church – like many in
Budapest – was used as a mosque
during the Turkish occupation in the
Interior of the Cave Church 16th and 17th centuries. It was rebuilt
by the Franciscan Order between
Cave Church
5 1727 and 1743, and their emblem
remains visible in the main portal.
The remarkable Cave Church
was built into Gellért Hill by Pauline Numerous sculptures of Franciscan
monks following a pilgrimage to saints decorate the church’s façade.
Lourdes. It was consecrated on Whit
Sunday 1926. Bricked up during the
Communist period, it reopened in
August 1989 (see p75).
St Anne’s Church
6
MAP H1 • I, Batthyány tér 7
• 06 201 63 64 • Open 4:30–6pm daily
The twin-towered parish church of
Víziváros is one of the most beautiful
Baroque churches in Hungary.
Built between 1740 and 1805, its
high lights include the painted ceiling
by Gergely Vogl, the high altar and
the magni ficent Baroque pulpit.
Serbian Church
7
MAP L5 • V, Szerb utca 2–4
• Open 8am–7pm daily
Built by Serbian settlers in 1698, this
Baroque church replaced an earlier
one on the same site. The church’s Exterior of the Capuchin Church
interior is arranged according to
Capuchin Church
the Greek Orthodox tradition, as the 0
Serbs follow the Orthodox liturgy. MAP H2 • I, Fő utca 32 • 06 201
The iconostasis that surrounds the 47 25 • Open 10:15–11:45am Tue–Fri
choir gallery and divides it from the (also open by prior arrangement)
sanctuary dates from 1850. It was Just a short walk along Fő utca from
carved by Serb sculptor Mihai Janic. St Anne’s Church lies the charming
Capuchin Church, a 19th -century
Lutheran Church
8 replica of an earlier building.
The first church on the site was
MAP L3 • V, Deák tér 5 • 06 483
21 50 • Open 10am–6pm Tue–Sun founded in the 14th century, but
This striking church is characterized was conver ted into a mosque during
by its sim plicity, in keeping with the the Turkish occupation and almost
design of most Protestant churches completely destroyed in 1686. Of the
throughout Central Europe. Built few original features to remain is
between 1797 and 1808, it is not the doorway on the southern façade.




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46 ❯❯ The Top 10 of Everything

Baths and Swimming Pools


Gellért Hotel and Baths
1
Of all Budapest’s many baths,
this is perhaps the finest, so it is fortu­
nate that it is open to non­residents
every day of the year. The outdoor
pools feature one of the world’s first
artificial wave machines (see pp20–21).
Lukács Baths
2
MAP B2 • II, Frankel Leó út 25–
9 • 06 326 16 95 • Open 6am–10pm
daily • Adm • www.budapestspas.hu Serene interior of Magnolia Day Spa
Opened in 1894, the Neo­Classical
Magnolia Day Spa
Lukács Baths offer three outdoor 5
swimming pools, plus three indoor MAP J2 • V, Zoltán út 3
thermal pools, along with Kneipp • 06 269 06 10 • Open 9am–9pm
baths, fitness room, sauna and daily • www.magnoliadayspa.hu
mud treatments. This spacious spa in the heart of
Buda pest offers more than 100 types
Dagály Medicinal
3 of exclusive therapeutic massages,
Baths and Strand
plus body and facial treatments,
MAP P1 • XIII, Népfürdő út 36 • 06 452 manicures and pedicures. They
45 56 • Open 6am–7pm daily • Adm use only natural ingredients.
Some way from the city centre, the
Hajós Alfréd National
Dagály Strand is Budapest’s largest 6
pool complex, comprising 10 pools, Swimming Pool
including children’s pools, plus a MAP B1 • XIII, Margaret Island • 06
hydrotherapy and fitness centre. It 450 42 00 • Open 6am–4pm Mon–Fri,
will stay closed in 2017, when it hosts 6am–6pm Sat & Sun • Adm
the World Aquatic Championships. Designed by architect and sportsman
Alfréd Hajós, who represented
Széchenyi Baths
4 Hungary at the 1896 Olympic Games
in swimming and football, the three
Set in a building designed
by Győző Czigler in Városliget Park, sports pools (including an Olympic­
the Széchenyi Baths offer a range size one) are still used by the Hungar­
of thermal water treatments. The ian swimming team for training.
complex has a number of outdoor
and indoor pools (see p95). Outdoor pools at Széchenyi Baths
















Eyewitness Travel – Top 10 series LAYERS PRINTED:
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Baths and Swimming Pools ❮❮ 47

Palatinus Strand
7 TOP 10 BATH TIPS
MAP P1 • XIII, Margaret Island
• 0620 212 98 73 • Undergoing
renovation until mid-2017; check
website for opening hours • Adm •
http://en.palatinusstrand.hu
Budapest’s most popular swimming
complex has water slides, pools and
hot springs, all set amidst the peace
of Margaret Island.
Veli Bej Bath
8
MAP B2 • II, Árpád Fejedelem
Relaxing shoulder massage
útja 7 • 06 438 86 42 • Open 6am– 1 Etiquette
noon & 3–9pm daily • Adm; free for Most of the thermal baths are unisex.
under-14s In single-sex baths and facilities
Originally built in 1574, this Turkish swimming costumes are optional.
bath has five thermal pools of varying 2 Payment
temperatures, a Jacuzzi, two steam The price list, posted in Hungarian,
cabins, saunas, massage showers, German and English at the entrance
a Kneipp bath, a swimming pool to all the baths, usually runs to several
and a variety of wellness services. pages. The entrance fee is charged
according to the service you demand
and is valid for a day. Last admission
is 1 hour before closing time.
3 Towels
Bring your own towel, or hire one for
a small fee and an additional deposit.
4 Bathrobes
In single-sex baths such as Rudas
Baths, you will be handed a small
sheet as a matter of course.
5 Lockers
Most baths have secure lockers where
The historic Rudas Baths you can leave valuables for a small fee.
6 Water Temperature
Rudas Baths
9 All baths display the temp erature of
MAP K5 • I, Döbrentei tér 9
the water by the side of the pool.
• 06 356 13 22 • Swimming pool: open 7 Steam Rooms
6am–10pm • Sauna: open 8am–10pm Entrance to the steam room – where
• Steam pools: open 6am–8pm for men there is one – is usually included in
Mon, Wed–Fri; women Tue; both Sat the standard entrance fee.
& Sun • Night bathing: 10pm–4am Fri 8 Massage
& Sat • Adm • www.budapestspas.hu Almost all baths and pools offer various
The Rudas Baths, built by the Turks forms of massage for an extra cost.
in the 16th century, are among the 9 Wave Pools
oldest in the city. There are six steam Gellért, Dagály and Palatinus Strand all
pools and a swimming pool. have artificial wave machines.
Danubius Grand
0 10 Family
Bathing
Hotel Margitsziget
Budapest’s most exclusive baths are Children are
welcome in most
those at the opulent Danubius Grand of the city’s baths, but
Hotel Margitsziget (see p23). Don’t be the thermal baths are
surprised if you find a Holly wood star only for over-14s. Hired towels
sharing the hot tub with you.




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48 ❯❯ The Top 10 of Everything

Danube Sights

















The façade of the Hungarian Parliament, seen from the Danube
Hungarian Parliament
1 bridge-builders and the Communist
The city’s number one sight
authorities wanting to demolish it.
looks better from the water or from A compromise was reached, however,
the opposite bank of the Danube and today the roadway passes just
than from anywhere else. The inches from the church’s walls.
splendour of its design – based
Shoes on the Danube
on Britain’s Houses of Parliament – 4
is only enhanced by the river’s MAP J2
soothing effect (see pp12–15). This moving memorial was created
by sculptors Gyula Pauer and Can
River Cruises
2 Togay in 2005, and comprises 60
MAP K4 • Mahart Passnave: V,
pairs of iron shoes lined up at the
Vigadó tér, Dock 5–6; 06 318 12 23, 06 edge of the Pest embankment, just
484 40 13; www.mahartpassnave.hu south of the Hungarian Parliament
A number of companies run tours building. The site had been used
along the Danube in the summer as a place of execution by fascist
months, departing from Vigadó tér. Arrow Cross militiamen, who shot
Mahart Passnave operates evening hundreds of Jews here in 1944–5.
cruises – including drinks and
dinner – to Vienna. There are also
hydrofoil services to Vienna twice
a week, running from the end of
April to the end of September.
Elizabeth Bridge
3
MAP K5
Hailed the longest suspen sion bridge
in the world when completed in 1903,
Elizabeth Bridge (Erzsébet híd) had
to be completely rebuilt after World
War II, and did not reopen until 1963.
Great care had to be taken on the
Pest side to ensure that the Inner
City Parish Church (see p89) was not
damaged during rebuilding; indeed
at one stage the church’s continued
existence was threatened, with the Shoes on the Danube


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