PAESYEON F A S H I O N M A G A Z I N E J U N 2 0 2 4
04 Antiquity and the premodern era 07 Fashion trends in every era 32 Moon Young Hee 44 Lie Sang-Bong 60 Lee Suk Tae Contents History & Origin Designer in Korea
Modern VS Traditional Kpop in Fashion 04 Trendsetter 07 2ne1 04 BTS 07 Blackpink 04 Traditional 07 Modern 07 People’s choice
1 THE PRE-MODERN ERA ANTIQUITY AND During antiquity, the koreans wear their traditional clothes Hanbok. The earliest visual depictions of hanbok can be traced back to the Three Kingdoms of Korea period (57 BC to 668 AD) with roots in the Proto-Koreanic People of what is now northern Korea and Manchuria. The ancient hanbok consisted of a jeogori which is the top part of the clothes, baji which is the pants, chima which is the skirt, and the po referring to the coat. The basic structure of hanbok was designed to facilitate the ease of movement and integrated many motifs of Mu-ism, a religion from Korea. For thousands of years, the hanbok most people wore was pure white without any ornament. More ornate hanbok was typically reserved for special occasions such as weddings. This is believed to be related to the culture that reveres the color white, To Koreans, white traditionally symbolizes simplicity, integrity, innocence and nobility. 1
Western clothing was introduced in Korea during the modernization period known as Gaehwagi which can be translated to "bloom." This period marked the opening of ports and the introduction of Western culture to the Korean Peninsula. 1950s–60s 1970s–80s Development of ready-made clothes industry such as factorymade clothing, off-the-peg. 1980s–90s Organization of SFA increased popularity of designer brands. FASHION TRENDS 2 IN EVERY ERA 2
MOO N YOU N G H EE KOREAN http://moonyounghee.com F a s hio n m e dia o f t h e y e a r
ABOUT MOON YOUNG HEE Moon Young Hee, a South Korean designer, arrived in Paris in 1991 and established her own label in 1994. In 1996, she was invited by the "Chambre Syndicale de la Couture et du Prêt à Porter" to showcase her collections in the prestigious "Calendrier du Prêt à Porter." In 2001, she opened her first ownname workshop at 62 rue Charlot, in Paris's famous Le Marais district. In 2015, a second boutique opened at 19 Quai Malaquais in the 6th arrondissement. It is displayed at the National Museum in Seoul in 2012, and South Korean President Mmr Park Geun-Hye bestows the "President Award" on her in 2014, in recognition of her entire professional career. 4
Moon Young Hee is a Paris-based Korean fashion designer known for her deconstructionist designs. She is a humble and low-key designer who has showcased her designs at Paris Fashion Week. Moon Young Hee has been recognized for her efforts in bridging the gap between Korea and France, and has received the Chevalier de l'Ordre National du Merite from the French government. She approaches fashion design from a structural perspective, often incorporating layering and bold elements into her outfits. Moon Young Hee's designs are characterized by their deconstructionist approach, often featuring bold, architectural silhouettes and innovative uses of fabric. Her designs are highly conceptual and often blur the lines between fashion and art. She is known for her attention to detail and her ability to create complex, intricate designs that are both beautiful and thought-provoking. 1980s: Moon Young Hee began her career in the fashion industry in the 1980s, working as a designer for several Korean fashion brands. 1990s: In the 1990s, she moved to Paris to pursue her dream of becoming a global fashion designer. She worked as an assistant to French designer André Courrèges, where she honed her skills and gained valuable experience. 2001: Moon Young Hee launched her eponymous fashion label, Moon Young Hee, in Paris. Her debut collection was showcased at Paris Fashion Week, marking her entry into the international fashion scene. 2002: She was awarded the "Andam Fashion Award" (AssociationNationale pour le Développement des Arts de la Mode), a prestigious French fashion award that recognizes emerging talent.2005: Moon Young Hee was invited to showcase her collection at the prestigious Paris Fashion Week, solidifying her position as a rising star in the fashion industry. 2010s: Throughout the 2010s, Moon Young Hee continued to showcase her collections at Paris Fashion Week, gaining critical acclaim and attracting a loyal following among fashion enthusiasts. 2014: She was awarded the Chevalier de l'Ordre National du Mérite (Knight of the National Order of Merit) by the French government, recognizing her contributions to the fashion industry and her role in promoting cultural exchange between Korea and France. Present day: Moon Young Hee continues to design and showcase her collections at Paris Fashion Week, and her brand has become synonymous with avant-garde, deconstructionist fashion. 5
LIE SANG BONG Designer Fashion Lie Sang Bong was born in 1955 in Seoul, South Korea. He studied fashion design at the prestigious Hongik University in Seoul, where he earned a degree in fashion design. Lie Sang Bong's designs are characterized by their intricate details, bold colors, and innovative uses of traditional Korean fabrics and motifs. He is known for his ability to blend traditional Korean elements with modern twists, creating a unique and distinctive aesthetic. His designs often feature complex embroidery, beading, and other forms of intricate craftsmanship.Lie Sang Bong's designs are inspired by Korean culture and history, as well as by nature and the human form. He often incorporates traditional Korean motifs, such as the taegeuk (the symbol of the Korean flag) and the lotus flower, into his designs. He is also inspired by the works of Korean artists, including calligraphers and painters. 6
Lie Sang Bong's influence on the fashion DESIGN industry extends beyond his own designs. He has inspired a generation of Korean fashion designers and has played a significant role in promoting Korean culture and fashion around the world. His designs have been featured in top fashion publications, including Vogue, Elle, and Harper's Bazaar, and he has dressed celebrities and fashion icons around the world. After working at the International Fashion Design Institute, he won the Jungang Design Contest in 1983 and participated in the Jungang Design regular collection, launching the brand "LIE SANGBONG" named after him. He has been regularly participating in the SFAA Seoul Collection since 1993, in the Paris Prêt-à- porter exhibition every season since 1999, and in the New York Fashion Court since 2003 to secure a variety of overseas fixed buyers. By participating in these collections, the brand's awareness has been raised to a global level every season. 7
L E E S U K T A E Lee Suk Tae is a well-known fashion designer who creates conceptual and structured designs that embody modernity. He is the creative force behind the fashion label Kaal E. Suktae. Lee's designs combine masculinity and femininity, with bold, exaggerated silhouettes and innovative textiles. Lee Suk Tae's designs are inspired by the urban lifestyle and are aimed at the confident, modern woman who is unapologetically herself. His collections frequently include statement pieces like oversized coats and parkas with dramatic shoulders, which act as protective armour against the harsh realities of city life. Lee Suk Tae has a strong educational background in fashion, having graduated from L'Ecole de la Chambre Syndicale de la Couture Parisienne and L'Ecole de Studio Berco in Paris. His designs have been featured at major fashion shows, including Seoul Fashion Week, and have received critical acclaim for their distinct blend of style and substance. KOREAN FASHION DESIGNER 8
Lee Suk Tae is a designer known for his modern and avant-garde designs, which frequently incorporate architectural elements, dynamic silhouettes, and geometric patterns. He has shown his collections around the world to critical acclaim and has received numerous awards, including the Herald Economy Designer of the Year, the Korean Textile Industries Excellent Brand, and the After Fashion Week Designer of the Year in 2012. KOREAN Fashion After finishing his studies, Tae began interning at two major fashion houses, Sonia Rykiel and Christian Dior. Tae founded his own label, Kaalesuktae, in 1997, after gaining extensive academic and practical experience under some of France's leading designers. 9
K- p o p ’ s i m p a c t o n f a s h i o n i s p a l p a b l e , a s i d o l s e f f o rt l e s s l y n a v i g a t e t h e r e a l m s o f f a s h i o n h o u s e s a n d e m e r g i n g d e s i g n e r s a l i k e . Th e ir a u d a c i o u s s t y l e s tr a n s c e n d b o u n d a ri e s , p u s h i n g t h e e n v e l o p e o f s a rt o ri a l e x p r e s s i o n . “Str e e t w e a r, o n c e o n t h e fri n g e s , n o w t a k e s c e n tr e s t a g e , r a d i a t i n g a n e f f o rt l e s s f u s i o n o f c o m f o rt a n d e d g e . K- p o p ’ s i n n o v a t i v e g a z e h a s a l s o b l u rr e d g e n d e r b o u n d a ri e s , u s h e ri n g i n a n e w e r a o f g e n d e r- n e u tr a l f a s h i o n , w h e r e f l u i d i t y r e i g n s s u p r e m e . Vi e w e r s a r e i n s p ir e d t o e m u l a t e t h e ir f a v o u ri t e c h a r a c t e r s ’ l o o k s , i n c o r p o r a t i n g t h e m i n t o t h e ir w a r d r o b e s . Fr o m e l e g a n t h a n b o k s t h a t c e l e b r a t e tr a d i t i o n t o c o n t e m p o r a r y h i g h - e n d f a s h i o n , Ko r e a n d r a m a p r e s e n t s a t a p e s tr y o f s t y l e s t h a t r e s o n a t e w i t h d i v e r s e a u d i e n c e s ,” s a y s Sh i n y Al e x a n d e r, As s i s t a n t Pr o f e s s o r, Fa s h i o n D e p a rt m e n t , Pe a rl Ac a d e m y . T R E N D S E T T E R 10
K - P O P I M P A C T O N F A S H I O N Fashion plays a significant role in K-pop, and it is one of the elements that contributes to its visual appeal. MA Luxury Brand Management student, Iman Zahid Hafeez, discusses how K-pop groups utilise fashion to create strong visual identities. K- p o p ’ s i n f l u e n c e g o e s b e y o n d t h e m u s i c i n d u s tr y , w i t h f a s h i o n b e i n g a f u n d a m e n t a l r o l e i n d e f i n i n g t h e v i s u a l i d e n t i t y o f a g r o u p . K- p o p a rt i s t s , c o m m o n l y r e f e rr e d t o a s “i d o l s ”, tr a n s c e n d c u l t u r a l a n d l a n g u a g e b a rri e r s , t o i n tr o d u c e e l e m e n t s o f So u t h Ko r e a n c u l t u r e t o t h e g l o b a l f a s h i o n s c e n e . Fr o m v i b r a n t , e c l e c t i c o u t f i t s t o m e t i c u l o u s l y c u r a t e d s t y l e s , f a s h i o n h a s b e c o m e a v i t a l w a y f o r K- p o p g r o u p s t o c o n v e y t h e ir u n i q u e a e s t h e t i c s a n d a t tr a c t a w o rl d w i d e a u d i e n c e . Th i s a rt i c l e w i l l e x p l o r e t h e i m p o rt a n c e o f f a s h i o n i n s h a p i n g a K- p o p g r o u p ’ s v i s u a l i d e n t i t y a n d i t s r o l e i n t h e ir g l o b a l s u c c e s s . 11
2NdfdE1 Second generation kpop idols New evolution of 21st Century d e b u t o n M a y 6, 2 0 0 9 A different sort of girl group arriving on the cusp of a new decade, 2NE1 grew rapidly to represent and inspire the South Korean music industry. Their rise led to a new wave of bold, fashion-forward and bombastic girl groups during K-pop’s second generation and they continue to influence the industry even more than a decade on. Their fashion have become a special character for them since the first debut until now even if their are not together as a group anymore 12
Sandara Park Minzy Park Bomi for 2NE1, their best designer friend Jeremy Scott is also draws inspiration from Pop Art for his fashion lines! All four members wore items designed by Scott. Minzy, Park Bom and CL are each wearing runway looks from Jeremy Scott’s Fall 2014 collection full of furry sports inspired items and monster faces. Dara‘s Cheezy Bits Sweater ($641) is from Moschino, which now as Jeremy Scott as the label’s creative director. C L SUMMER COLLECTION 13
BLACKPINK Girls Kpop group that conquer global fashion 14
C o a c h ella M u sic F e s tiv al 2 019 Blackpink made global headlines in 2019 after becoming the first all-female K-pop group to perform at Coachella. Its members sported black-and-silver stage outfits, with Lisa in a bejeweled halter-neck crop top and belted skirt and Jennie in a bandeau top, choker, and shorts with a glittery fringe skirt. The group’s members are so renowned that they have served as ambassadors for many luxury brands: Lisa for Celine and Bulgari, Jennie for Chanel, Rosé for Yves Saint Laurent and Tiffany and Co., and Jisoo for Dior and Cartier. Rosé also became the first female K-pop icon to attend the Met Gala in 2021. Celine Brand Dior Brand
More than 50 year s on, the house es tabli shed by the late des igner s t ill nur tures c lose relat ionships wi th s t y li sh s tar s . Creat i ve direc tor Anthony Vac carello has found inspirat ion in a new generat ion of chi c young women – the lates t being R osé, s tar of the K -pop supergroup B lackpink G L O B A L E V E N T R O S E A S S A I N T L A U R E N T A M B A S S A D O R The mus i c ian has made no sec ret of her love for the house ( she’ s at tended two of i t s Pari s Fashion Week shows and frequent l y totes i t s t rophy handbags on her t ravel s ), but now her relat ionship wi th Saint Laurent has been solidified – and what a pos i t ion to be in. She follows in the foot s teps of K ate Mos s , Zoë K rav i t z , Debbie Harr y , Cara Delev ingne and Cour tney Love, all of whom have ser ved as Saint Laurent ambas sador s and muses . The K -pop idol s tar s in a new photoshoot and v ideo that dropped thi s week, and ser ves as Saint Laurent ’ s autumn/winter 2020 campaign ( see i t I R L on the back cover of the Augus t i s sue of B ri t i sh Vogue). In i t the 23 - year-old model s the new collec t ion, inc luding a perfec t lace L BD, and a s ignature pus s y -bow shir t reworked wi th a more contemporar y rock ‘n’ roll leopard print . Now that her ambas sador role has been made offi c ial, we can expec t to see many more Saint Laurent looks from R osé in the future. 16
BTS AKA BANGTAN BOYS Take a peak into the glamorous world of kpop idols WORLD DOMINATION
Before wooing the world and receiving a standing ovation for their performance at the 64th annual Grammys, BTS dazzled on the red carpet in head-to-toe Louis Vuitton. Member Jungkook posed in a yale blue set with a cropped band-collar jacket, baggy pants, and chunky black loafers. n their “Dynamite” music video, BTS gave us their version of the best looks throughout the decades. Emulating ’90s heartthrobs, the band members rocked backward Kangol hats, oversized button-downs layered over white tees, and Canadian tuxedos while giving odes to Michael Jackson and ’NSync choreography. J-Hope sports one of the best looks of the video in ’70s-inspired head-to-toe Gucci: He wears a red leather buttondown, jeans, and a black belt.. 64th Grammy Award Dynamite album’s photoshoot 18
Hall of Fame Vogue Models BTS members mostly take a modeling job as a group but some of them frequently gets different offers Taehyung solo photoshoot for Dior fashion brand S u m m e r o u fits S e mi-fo r m al attir e
TRADITIONALGET TO KNOW FASHION HANBOK KOREA’S TRADITIONAL CLOTHING
HANBOK Hanbok refers to traditional Korean clothing. Koreans have traditionally used cloth, silk, hemp, ramie, and other materials to create clothing tailored to the Korean Peninsula's four distinct seasons. A full set of hanbok includes jeogori, which covers the arms and torso, a skirt or pair of trousers, and durumagi, which serves as outerwear. The clothes have a snug fit and soft lines, giving them an overall elegant appearance. Hanbok gained global attention for its charm and aesthetics after K-Pop stars such as BTS and BLACKPINK showcased various styles inspired by the hanbok in their music videos. The popularity of Korean period dramas Kingdom and The King's Affection, which were released on global streaming video services, boosted interest in hanbok even more. Today, hanbok is more often worn for special occasions than as casual clothes, such as wedding ceremonies, children’s first birthdays, and seasonal holidays including the Lunar New Year’s Day and Chuseok. CLOTHING AND FASHION 21
KOREAN’S MODERN FASHION GET TO KNOW 22
P A ES Y E O N OVERSIZED BUTTONDOWN SHIRTS South Koreans will always prefer longsleeved button-down shirts, even when walking in the summer heat. Despite the extensive coverage, this garment is often oversized or loose, and it is made of a thin material, allowing Koreans to stay cool in the summer without exposing too much skin. KOREAN SUMMER TRENDS 2024 CROPPED KNIT CARDIGAN Knit cardigans are in for the summer, providing a cosy and modest look. Although some may argue that these clothing pieces are too hot for the season and do not protect their skin from the sun, they make an excellent complement to a dainty summer dress like TWICE's Dahyun. CANVAS BAGS Canvas tote bags are an all-season essential for those in the east, making them a well-known Korean summer fashion trend. Aside from their simplicity and functionality, these bags are popular among daily commuters for their timeless design. 23
Modern Korean fashion combines traditional and Western styles. While traditional Korean clothing, such as the hanbok, is still worn on special occasions, contemporary Korean fashion is heavily influenced by Western styles. In fact, Korean fashion has taken the world by storm, as has Korean popular culture. Traditional South Korean aesthetics remain popular, particularly when young designers reinterpret traditional Korean designs. Although many of today's youth prefer clothes inspired by modern Western styles, some elements of Korean traditional clothing can still be found in contemporary designs. Modern Korean fashion features a lot of colourful clothes, bold styles, and statement pieces. Koreans enjoy colourful clothing and are not afraid to express themselves and their modern artistic sensibility through a variety of clothing materials. If you've watched K-pop music videos or Korean dramas. MODERN VS TRADITIONAL 2024 24
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