The Citadel of Salah Ed-Din - Aga Khan Museum

The Citadel of Salah Ed-Din

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THE CITADEL OF SALAH ED-DIN

T he Citadel of Salah ed Din is located high in the coastal mountain
range, some 24 kilometres east of Lattakia. On a fine day one can see
the Mediterranean sparkling in the far distance. Its natural setting is
spectacular, resting high on a ridge between two deep ravines, and
surrounded by forest. Like many sites in Syria, the history of occupation on
the site has gone through many phases, reaching back possibly to the
Phoenician period (early first millennium BC). Much of what remains visible
today dates from the Crusaders, who occupied the site around 1100 AD.
They were responsible for constructing the high stone walls and defensive
towers, and cutting a deep moat into the rocks. In the middle of the moat
rises a thin needle of remaining natural rock, 28 metres high, on which rested
a bridge, once the only entry into the Citadel. The Crusader walls were
breached by the armies of Salah ed-Din in July 1188, and it is from this
victory that the castle takes its present name. Over the next hundred years,
the new Muslim rulers built a mosque and a fine palace and baths at the
heart of the castle complex. Later, a madrasa was also constructed. It is
these Ayyubid and Mamluk sections of the Citadel that AKTC has selected
for its conservation efforts over the past two years.

The Citadel of Salah ed Din. The Conservation work began in 1999 with an extensive survey of the site. This
Crusader walls are in the foreground, was followed in 2000 by the restoration of the mosque and its minaret and
behind is the minaret of the mosque, to the adjacent madrasa. The minaret posed particular problems: an earthquake
its right the entrance portico of the had broken the top of the minaret apart, causing it to partially collapse, and
Ayyubid Palace, and at the highest point many loose stones in the top section were in danger of falling. The team
are the ruins of the Byzantine castle. painstakingly recorded the position of each stone, and then slowly took the
top apart, not an inconsiderable feat given the size and weight of the stones.
The top of the minaret was then re-built using the original stones and knitting-
in other stones found around the site to form a stable and durable structure.
Different problems were tackled in the madrasa and mosque. Both buildings
were structurally stable, but successive phases of modern repairs using
inappropriate materials had altered and damaged the historic fabric. Where
feasible, the modern interventions were carefully removed, and walls, ceilings
and roofs were then repaired and finished using materials and techniques
identical to those employed by the original mediaeval craftsmen, making the
buildings sound without detracting from their historic character. The
restoration process was successfully completed in the autumn of 2000.

During 2001, the team has been working on the conservation of the remains
of the Ayyubid palace and baths. The palace complex was built in at least
two phases between 1188 and 1290. The superstructure of the main qa’a, or
inner courtyard at the core of the Palace, is almost gone, although the
remains of an octagonal fountain can still be clearly seen at its centre. The

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qa’a is surrounded on one side by the ruins of a small bath and on the other
by a series of more intact private rooms. In both sets of adjoining spaces,
archaeologists working with the project have uncovered the remains of a
sophisticated piped water system, which probably fed a salsabil (a carved
stone or ceramic panel set against the wall over which flowed fresh water,
cooling the air and the senses) as well as the fountain and the hot and cold
water systems in the bath. The entrance to the palace is still largely intact,
and consists of another smaller qa’a with two shallow iwans and a skylight
made of finely carved stones. Perhaps the most interesting aspect of the
complex is the entrance portico with its fine muqarnas, or stalactite carvings.
Over the years, movement in the structure has prised open the joints between
the massive stones that make up the portico, but rather than detract from it,
the gaps provide a glimpse of the extraordinary skill and geometrical
precision of the craftsmen who built it.

Above: Conservation work in the palace and baths do not attempt to restore or
The Crusader castle; The bottom reconstruct earlier hypothetical conditions. Ruins have been carefully
space is a cistern for storing water, an stabilised as found, and only rebuilt where required to gain structural stability.
important aspect of defence in the The French architect and archaeologist Ecochard carried out extensive
seasonally arid mountains. restoration of the entrance area in the 1930’s, and whilst this work is in spirit
very different from the less interventionist approach of today, it has been
Above right: respected as an integral part of the historic texture of the site. Much of the
The Citadel sits high on a ridge wall surfaces in the entrance area were weathered and defaced with graffiti
between two deep ravines. The forest and these have been carefully cleaned and re-pointed. Work at the palace
that surrounds it gives it an air of was preceded by a detailed archaeological survey of the ruins carried out
grand isolation. Preservation of the by a team from the Sorbonne University in Paris. The first findings are
natural environment is a key aspect of encouraging and indicate that it will be possible to gain a better idea of the
planning for the future of the site. structure of the entire complex. Important pottery fragments from the twelfth
century were found and will be exhibited on site.

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The Citadel of Salah ed-Din is already an important destination for tourism
in Syria; during last year, over 50,000 people visited the site. The project at
Salah ed Din will also include the provision of a new visitors’ centre and
exhibition space in the restored mosque and madrasa buildings, and AKTC
will invest in other aspects of tourism infrastructure at the site such as toilet
facilities, signage and pathways for visitors.

Particular attention is now being given to one of the major attractions of the
site, the untouched surroundings of the Citadel which need to be preserved.
Master planning for the Citadel as a whole and for the pristine landscape
surrounding the Citadel (to be protected as a nature preserve) have been
initiated and will continue in the following years. Plans for new roads, hotels
on critical view points and more visitors’ facilities will have to be carefully
scrutinised and controlled, in order to maintain the wilderness in which the
Citadel has been historically set.

Above left: Ayyubid palace with its fine the Citadel. When under attack, the
The minaret stands in front of the ‘muquarnas’ or stalactite carvings. flimsy stone support for the bridge
mosque and madrasa. To their right is atop the needle would be pushed away
the entrance portico of the Ayyubid Above middle: leaving the main entrance
palace behind which are a series of One of the massive Crusader donjons unreachable.
rooms and open spaces. Conservation on the outer wall of the Citadel.
efforts sponsored by HCSP have been “It was I think the most sensational
focused on these Ayyubid and Mamluk Above bottom: thing in castle building I have seen:
sections of the Citadel. The fosse, or defensive ditch, carved the hugely solid keep upstanding on
out of bedrock, 28 metres deep. In the the edge of the gigantic fosse.”
Above top: centre is a thin needle of natural rock
Detail of the entrance portico of the upon which rested the bridge access to T. E. Lawrence

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The minaret: An earthquake had section was carefully taken apart and The size and weight of the stones needed
broken the top of the minaret apart. To largely rebuilt, using new stones to rebuild made the conservation
ensure structural stability, the top where the original were beyond repair. process particularly difficult.

The madrasa: This part is more recent several vaults of the former palace. All replaced using materials and
than the mosque or minaret. The space the plasterwork inside the madrasa techniques similar to those employed
was formed by filling-in between was badly damaged and had to be by the mediaeval craftsmen.

The entrance to the mosque and
madrasa: Great effort was put into
preserving the historic character of
the site. The mosque and madrasa will
be reused for a small exhibition telling
the history of the castle and its famous
namesake, Salah ed-Din (Saladin).

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Elevation drawing of the north side of During 2001, conservation efforts
the minaret showing completed work. have focused on the Ayyubid palace.
The superstructure of the main qa’a,
Plan of the mosque, minaret or inner courtyard, has largely
and madrasa disappeared (above left), although the
remains of an octagonal pool can be
seen at its centre. The entrance to the
palace is largely intact, and consists of
a portico (previous page) and a
smaller interior qa’a (above right)
with a skylight of carved stones.

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