Including Highlights of Three Popular Upstate Parks 2023 EDITION brought to you by the LEWES-REHOBOTH ROTARY CLUB Great Walks Trails in Sussex & County
LEWES, DELAWARE 302-827-2054 HIT THE TRAIL
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4 • Great Walks & Trails in Sussex County 2023 Lewes-Rehoboth Rotary Club and the Cape Gazette are proud to once again partner to present this 2023 Trail Guide, a signature fundraiser for Lewes-Rehoboth Rotary Club, a service organization serving the eastern Sussex County community. Great Walks and Trails in Sussex County is designed to encourage fitness and to make residents and visitors aware of the many opportunities to get outdoors and discover the beauty of Sussex County. Lewes-Rehoboth Rotary Club uses proceeds of fundraisers such as this trail guide to fund scholarships and address other community needs, especially related to health and fitness. The club is deeply indebted to all of the advertisers who support this effort and make this trail guide possible. Please support the advertisers in this publication in recognition of their dedication to our local community. A special thanks to Cape Gazette staffers Ron MacArthur for updating the photography in this year’s edition and Teresa Rodriguez for handling the layout and design. If you have suggestions for the guide, would like to advertise, or get extra copies of the guide, please contact Chris Rausch at 302-645-7700. Sussex is blessed with abundant trails Index To Trails 8 Grand Cape Loop 14 Abbott’s Mill Nature Center 18 Prime Hook Refuge - Pine Grove Trail 20 Prime Hook Refuge - Black Farm 24 Prime Hook Refuge - Blue Goose 28 Town of Milton - Historic Tour 32 Milton Rail Trail System 36 Nature Conservancy - Ponder Tract 40 Nature Conservancy - McCabe Preserve 44 Redden State Forest 48 Town of Georgetown - Historic Tour 52 Cape Henlopen State Park - Gordons Pond 56 Cape Henlopen State Park - North End 60 City of Lewes - Trenny’s Loop 62 Lewes Maritime History Trail 66 City of Lewes - Historical Tour 70 Area Bike Trails 74 Lewes-Georgetown Trail 78 Junction and Breakwater Trail 82 Seashore State Park - Fresh Pond 86 Seashore State Park - Burton Island 90 City of Rehoboth Beach & Boardwalk 94 Holts Landing State Park 98 Thompson Island State Preserve 100 Assawoman Wildlife Refuge 104 Assawoman Canal Trail 108 James Farm Trail Ecological Preserve 112 Trap Pond State Park - Boundary Trail 116 Western Sussex - Woodland Park 120 Chapel Branch Nature Area 122 Nanticoke Wildlife Area 126 City of Seaford - Walking and Biking ON THE COVER: Members of Sussex Cyclists ride on the Gordon’s Pond Trail between Cape Henlopen State Park and Rehoboth Beach.
Great Walks & Trails in Sussex County 2023 • 5 communitybankdelaware.com Locally Owned. Locally Managed. Because Community Matters. Lewes Rehoboth 302 226 3333
6 • Great Walks & Trails in Sussex County 2023 COASTAL HWY COASTAL HWY KINGS HWY JOHN WILLIAMS HWY DUPONT BLVD DUPONT BLVD COUNTY SEAT HWY LEWES GEORGETOWN HWY SEASHORE FEDERALSBURG RD SEASHORE HWY SUSSEX HWY SUSSEX HWY HWY DUPONT BLVD COASTAL HWY NEW RD BROADKILL RD ROUND POLE BRIDGE RD UNION ST EXT BEACH HWY JOHNSON RD REDDEN RD EAST REDDEN RD HICKMAN RD SHAWNEE RD CEDAR CREEK RD GRAVEL HILL RD CAVE NECK RD CEDAR BEACH RD HARBESON RD MILLSBORO HWY VINE CREEK RD OMAR RD LIGHTHOUSE RD ROXANA RD ZION CHURCH RD BAYARD RD LIGHTHOUSE RD BEAVER DAM MT JOY RD SHILOH CHURCH RD WHITESVILLE RD CYPRESS RD LAUREL RD CONAWAY RD SHORTLY RD HARDSCRABBLE RD OLD FURNACE RD CONCORD RD NINE FOOT RD MILLSBORO HWY WHALEYS RD ATLANTA RD CANNON RD WOODLAND RD MT PLEASANT RD SUSAN BEACH RD SHARPTOWN RD BI STATE BLVD SEAFORD RD WOODLAND FERRY RD INDIAN MISSION RD S. UNION CHURCH RD LEWES REHOBOTH BEACH DEWEY BEACH MILLSBORO DAGSBORO SELBYVILLE DELMAR LAUREL BETHEL SEAFORD BRIDGEVILLE GREENWOOD MILFORD GEORGETOWN BETHANY BEACH OCEAN VIEW FENWICK ISLAND MILTON Ellendale State Forest Redden State Forest Slaughter Beach Prime Hook Refuge Cape Henlopen State Park Delaware Seashore State Park Fenwick Island State Park Assawoman Wildlife Area Trap Pond State Park Nanticoke Wildlife Area 24 5 404 30 1 1 113 9 9 113 52 56 62 74 66 60 78 90 98 86 66 104 82 100 24 18 20 40 36 32 94 48 44 48 126 120 116 112 122 100 Assawoman Wildlife Refuge 104 Assawoman Canal Trail 52 Cape Henlopen State Park - Gordons Pond 56 Cape Henlopen State Park - North End 66 City of Lewes - Historical Tour 60 City of Lewes - Trenny’s Loop 90 City of Rehoboth Beach & Boardwalk 94 Holts Landing State Park 108 James Farm Trail Ecological Preserve 78 Junction and Breakwater Trail 62 Lewes Maritime History Trail 74 Lewes-Georgetown Trail 82 Seashore State Park - Fresh Pond 86 Seashore State Park - Burton Island 98 Thompson Island State Preserve 14 Abbott’s Mill Nature Center 20 Prime Hook Refuge - Black Farm 24 Prime Hook Refuge - Blue Goose Master Map for Sussex County Trails and Tours 18 Prime Hook Refuge - Pine Grove Trail 32 Milton Rail Trail System 36 Nature Conservancy - Ponder Tract 40 Nature Conservancy - McCabe Preserve 44 Redden State Forest 48 Town of Milton - Historic Tour 48 Town of Georgetown - Historic Tour 126 City of Seaford - Walking and Biking 120 Chapel Branch Nature Area 122 Nanticoke Wildlife Area 112 Trap Pond State Park - Boundary Trail 116 Western Sussex - Woodland Park 14 Numbers correspond to pages in the Trail Guide
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8 • Great Walks & Trails in Sussex County 2023 TERESA RODRIGUEZ MAP This map shows the Grand Cape Loop including Junction and Breakwater Trail, Gordons Pond Trail, and trails in the northern end of Cape Henlopen State Park. See pages 70 and 71 for connection to Lewes-Georgetown Trail. Gills Neck Road C.H.H.S. Library Wolfe Glade Lewes & Rehoboth Canal Holland Glade Gordons Pond Holland Glade Rd. Coastal Highway Hebron Rd. Church St. Freeman Hwy. Savannah Road Cape Henlopen State Park Lewes Delaware Bay Atlantic Ocean Rehoboth Ave. Henlopen Acres Columbia Ave. Ocean Drive Rehoboth Outlets e T Junction & Breakwater Trail Rehoboth Beach Ferry & Bike to Cape May Cape Henlopen Dr. Wolfe Neck Rd. Kings Hwy. Junction & Breakwat r rail P Parking Scenic Views Shopping Restrooms P P P P P P 1 Ferry Terminal TRAIL HEAD Rehoboth Museum Monroe Ave. American Legion Road GRAND CAPE LOOP
Great Walks & Trails in Sussex County 2023 • 9
10 • Great Walks & Trails in Sussex County 2023 One of the greatest forms of exercise for most of us who are not hindered by an orthopedic problem is the simple act of walking. Ever since we learned that skill in infancy, we have been using it to get where we wish to go. Walking for the benefits of cardiovascular exercise is a pleasure that we can enjoy at most any age. We don’t need to have a reason to walk, although there are so many good benefits. Enjoy the world around us, which is so easily missed if we spend most of our time in an automobile. Take time to smell the flowers, see the birds and other living creatures around us, and appreciate the world in which we live. Many of us can thank our pet dogs for needing to take that walk, but we should also do it for our own edification. Walking is one of the safest forms of cardiovascular exercise that we can enjoy. We are able to tailor our distance and speed to meet our particular desires and capabilities. Continuous walking for 30 minutes at least three times a week is a great way to start a walking program. Your heart, your blood pressure, your weight control and your psyche will all benefit from a regular walking program. Be reminded that we can make our weight control a lot easier than trying diet alone. Blood pressure and cholesterol will be lowered with the addition of a good walking program. Our hearts will appreciate our efforts of aerobic exercise. Long ago we learned that a sedentary lifestyle is dangerous for our health. Think of others and occasionally participate in a fundraising walk or run. During the good weather there will be frequent opportunities to join a walk for various charities, not just large national organizations, but also many of our local charities to help our neighbors in need. Remember to bring along a bottle of fluid so as not to become dehydrated especially in the hot humid weather. Take advantage of some of the great walks in Sussex County as presented in this guide, and you will be a happier person. From the canopied forests, the myriad of marshes, the seaside vistas, to the simple walk on the beaches, each has its own pleasures awaiting our participation. Enclosed in this booklet are a few of the best walks in our area that we have enjoyed and know that you will also. Jack Dawson, M.D., Fellow, American College of Cardiology, contributed this article. Visitors to Cape Henlopen State Park can see the WWII watchtowers standing guard on the shore. Get outside, start walking, breathe deep and be happy Calories expended per hour while walking: PACE 130 lbs 155 lbs 180 lbs 205 lbs Slow (2 mph) 148 176 204 233 Moderate (3 mph) 195 232 270 307 Brisk (4 mph) 295 352 409 465 Source: Healthline.com/health/calories-burned-walking#calories-burned
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Great Walks & Trails in Sussex County 2023 • 13
14 • Great Walks & Trails in Sussex County 2023 Loop trails, picnic tables, live animal exhibits create memories Located on the Sussex and Kent County borders, two miles west of Milford, Abbott’s Mill Nature Center and the Milford Millponds Nature Preserve encompass more than 300 acres of woodlands, meadows, streams and ponds. From a short walk and picnic, to a 5K (3.1-mile) cross-country course, there are opportunities for all walkers and runners. Delaware Nature Society manages Abbott’s Mill Nature Center and the Milford Millponds Nature Preserve in conjunction with Delaware’s Division of Historical and Cultural Affairs and Delaware’s Department of Natural Resources and Environmental Control. A variety of guided walks and programs for the public, scouts and school groups are offered throughout the year. Abbott’s Mill Nature Center features exhibits with live animals. It’s the perfect setting for a relaxing day enjoying the inland beauty of the Delmarva Peninsula. The nature center area features a loop trail and boardwalk along Johnson’s Branch, as well as a series of trails through meadow and forest along Abbott’s Pond. Picnic tables and public restrooms are available. Located half a mile west of Abbott’s Mill on Abbott’s Pond Road are the Blairs Pond tracts of the Milford Millponds Nature Preserve. This area features more than 200 acres of oak and pine forest along scenic Blairs Pond. Visitors can stroll along a sandy old postal road or try for a personal best on the 5K cross-country course that is used and maintained by the Milford High School cross-country team. The trail system can also be accessed from the state’s public boat ramp on Williamsville Road. Abbott’s Mill offers a full day of history and nature in a picturesque setting in northern Sussex County. ABBOTT’S MILL NATURE CENTER
Great Walks & Trails in Sussex County 2023 • 15 BLAIRS POND CROSS COUNTRY COURSE • Distance: 3.1 miles on a cross country course and a number of other trail opportunities of varying lengths. • Calories burned: 300 • Parking: Plenty of parking at Abbott’s Mill Nature Center on Abbott’s Mill Road. • Information: Abbott’s Mill Nature Center, 15411 Abbott’s Pond Road, Milford, DE 19963, (302) 422-0847, [email protected], www. delawarenaturesociety.org, GPS: 38.886241 N, 75.476816 W
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18 • Great Walks & Trails in Sussex County 2023 Sparkling ponds occasionally reflect soaring bald eagles The first walking-trail opportunity that reveals itself to the motorized nature-loving visitor to Prime Hook National Wildlife Refuge is the Pine Grove Trail. Shortly after entering the refuge on Turkle Pond Road, off Route 16 east of Route 1, a gravel-paved roadway carves out an inviting view to the left and beckons as you pass it. One should submit to this temptation because there are a number of bonuses that are offered along this crunchy path. Bonus No. 1 is that it is a pleasant drive, passing fields on the left and driving under a canopy of tall trees with dense woodland on the right. Bonus No. 2 occurs halfway down the 3/4-mile-long road when Turkle Pond kisses the road in the form of a canoe launching area. Bonus No. 3 only appears after stopping at the generous cul-de-sac available for parking. There on the left is a Shangri-La view of Fleetwood Pond, with sunbeams dancing through the gentle pathway that leads to the meditation dock. Visit this pond in the autumn and you may see squadrons of Canada geese slicing through the sky, informing each other of their heading and course. Time stops on the dock benches. It will be difficult to shift the mind to a more athletic mode. This sparkling water feature is surrounded by a wall of forest and disappears around the bend, making you wish you had a canoe. When you do pull away from this lens of peace, it will follow you on your path, fracturing the sunlight through the reflected web of branches shimmering on its surface. The suggested entry to the Pine Grove Trail is at the end of the cul de sac. A kiosk informs you that the Trail is 8/10ths of a mile in length and tells you that songs of the warbler, finch and tanager fill the air. If you are careful, you might see the endangered Delmarva fox squirrel or the white-tailed deer searching for dinner. Meanwhile, the woodpecker can be heard jackhammering a dead tree for his lunch. The route from this juncture is clockwise; the fragrant pine-needle carpeted corridor gently pulls you past its loblolly pine columnar walls. Be sure to look up often as you glide beneath the grove’s vaulted cathedral. Almost midway and again near the end of the northern leg of your journey, your eyes will invite you from the looped route to the shore of Turkle Pond. Local lore claims the original owner couldn’t quite pronounce the word “turtle” and thus the name was born. We may infer that this slow creature continues to outrun hares around the pond to this day. The discovery of this sister pond is a study in contrasts. One emerges from the dark forest to a wide-angle view of the distant northern shore, bathed by a forgotten sun. Returning from this second pond experience, one comes abruptly back to the access road, the mid-point of the journey. If time is fleeting, the road may be used to return to the point of origin, but a more adventurous trek would be a dive back into the cushioned, pineneedle path across the road. The southern loop of the trail also offers tall pine columns and lofty leaved vaults but is populated to a greater degree by low growth. This side has more of a wetland feeling. In fact, after a recent nor’easter we attempted to follow its more sinuous path only to be turned back by an encroaching Fleetwood Pond. A brisk walking pace completes the entire loop in 15 minutes. Should you have a Sunday afternoon with the family (including babies), allow 1 1/2 hours for enjoyment of the dock and the trail. Trekking in the cool October air is virtually bug-free. One of the lovely features of the Pine Grove visitation is that it slowly releases you from its enchanted fingers. You still have that dappled drive down the gravel road to Turkle Pond Road and the refuge exit. The drive to the gate is cool and sheltered. Drive slowly. Let the magic linger. PINE GROVE TRAIL • Length: Approximately .8 miles. • Calories burned: 200 at a moderate pace. • Parking: Cul-de-sac at end of first left off Turkle Pond Road. • Highlights: Nice vistas of two sparkling freshwater ponds: Fleetwood and Turkle. SEE MAP PAGE 21 PRIME HOOK REFUGE • PINE GROVE
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20 • Great Walks & Trails in Sussex County 2023 Pack a picnic, spend a whole day discovering miles of walking trails The Black Farm Trail is one of a halfdozen walking trails in the Prime Hook National Wildlife Refuge, which was established in 1963 and encompasses more than 10,000 acres. The Prime Hook area is one of more than 530 refuge properties across the USA and is managed by the U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service, the most comprehensive wildlife management refuge system in the world. The refuge is open from 1/2 hour before sunup to 1/2 hour after sundown. The entry to Prime Hook starts at Turkle Pond Road off Route 16 East. Other walking trails in this local refuge include: The Boardwalk, Pine Grove, Photography Blind and Blue Goose trails. There is also a seven-mile canoe trail along Prime Hook Creek to the north. For the most part, the trails form a series of loops that are linked to the L-shaped Turkle Pond access road that brings a visitor from Broadkill Road (Rt. 16) at the south entrance to the refuge administration building at the northeast. We visited the office before walking to obtain a map of trails and info on animal and plant life. Our initiation into the Prime Hook trail system began at the intersection of Turkle Pond Road with the Blue Goose and Black Farm entrance points. Black Farm Trail, which was named after the previously owned farm, begins at the east side of the road, marked with a couple of information kiosks adjacent to a small off-road parking area. We journeyed during a hot summer afternoon and we dressed defensively with long pants, collars and sleeves, sturdy shoes and socks and broad-brimmed hats. The flies were the most curious inhabitants but lost interest if we kept walking briskly. This trail began mysteriously with a long, dark-bowered arbor, dappled with splashes of intense sunlight and gleaming shadows. The total trail (one way) is listed as 1.6 miles, but due to the variety of views and variation of vistas as one moves clockwise along its route, it seems timeless. Along this enchanted tunnel with overhanging foliage, wood gnomes have placed small informative monuments to their furry fellow inhabitants: the beaver, whitetailed deer, gray and red fox, mink, muskrat, river otter, long-tailed weasel and woodchuck. At the end of the straight-tunnel segment, there is a link at the left which leads to the Photography Blind Trail (should you have the time and a camera). Continuing to the right along a treesheltered path, one is surprised by various glimpses of other worlds through occasional woodland windows: to the left, a glimpse of an overgrown pasture; to the right a sunbathed bed of wildflowers. We imagined the streams lively and overfilled with wet meadow and marshland, but on our trek, the BLACK FARM TRAIL • Distance: 1.6 miles. • Calories burned: About 200. • Parking: Designated parking area at the trailhead along Turkle Pond Road which is the entrance road to Prime Hook National Wildlife Refuge. Take Rt. 16 east toward Broadkill Beach, from Rt. 1 north. • Trail Highlights: This is a natural trail that passes through woods and meadows and along the extensive freshwater marsh system of the refuge. Deer, eagles, red-tail hawks and an occasional coyote have been seen from this trail. PRIME HOOK WILDLIFE REFUGE - BLACK FARM Learn about the neotropical birds you may see in Prime Hook National Wildlife Refuge, and their long migrations, from this sign at the head of the Black Farm Trail.
Great Walks & Trails in Sussex County 2023 • 21 terrain was thirsty. We were imagining an early morning trail hike after a storm. Again, another turn or two and we arrived at a wooden observation structure aimed across an open field with long grasses to the right - a birdwatching opportunity or deer stand for hunters. The trail meanders through overgrown pastures, old fields, old growth tree stands and nearby wetlands with white and pink marsh flowers in bloom. We sensed the presence of Delaware Bay nearby. A look at the Kiosk for Black Farm Trail suggests the total walk will take about 1/2 hour but if you stop to smell the flowers or take photographs, as we did, you should allow at least 1 1/2 hours. Mike and Mame Cohalan contributed this article. HEADQUARTERS TURKLE POND OFFICE/VISITOR CONTACT STATION PARKING RESTROOMS OBSERVATION AREA PHOTO BLIND BOAT LAUNCH FISHING FLEETWOOD POND BROADKILL ROAD GRAVES FARM ROAD BROADKILL RIVER TURKLE POND ROAD BLACK FARM TRAIL PINE GROVE TRAIL BLUE GOOSE TRAIL 0 0.25 0.5 Miles CANOE KAYAK This master map of the main headquarters area of Prime Hook National Wildlife Refuge shows several of the trails included in this guide. The Black Farm Trail is outlined in red in the southeastern portion of this map.
22 • Great Walks & Trails in Sussex County 2023 Walking Wisdom If you truly love nature, you will find beauty everywhere. – Laura Ingalls Wilder An early-morning walk is a blessing for the whole day. – Henry David Thoreau I could never resist the call of the trail. – Buffalo Bill Hiking’s not for everyone. Notice the wilderness is mostly empty. – Sonja Yoerg There are plenty of difficult obstacles in your path. Don’t allow yourself to become one of them. – Ralph Marston It is a shame for a man to grow old without seeing the beauty and strength of which his body is capable. – Socrates I love walking in the woods, along the trails, by the beaches. I love being part of nature. I love walking alone. It is therapy. One needs to be alone, to recharge one’s batteries. – Grace Kelly If you are in a bad mood, go for a walk. If you are still in a bad mood, go for another walk. – Hippocrates Like music and art, love of nature is a common language that can transcend political or social boundaries. – Jimmy Carter If you face the rest of your life with the spirit you show on the trail, it will have no choice but to yield the same kind of memories and dreams. – Adrienne Hall OLDFATHER Christine Macysyn Talent Integration Realtor® mobile: 302.500.1430 office: 302.273.4998 email: [email protected] website: www.TheOldfatherGroup.com Lewes 131 2nd St Lewes, DE 19958 OLDFATHER OLDFATHER EQUAL HOUSING OPPORTUNITY EQUAL HOUSING OPPORTUNITY ® REALTOR ® REALTOR 102 Second Street, Lewes, DE 19958 Tel: 302.200.9548 Fax: 302.727.5214 Cell: 301.980.6018 [email protected] ameripriseadvisors.com/john.li Associate with an Ameriprise Financial franchise John Li Financial Advisor
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24 • Great Walks & Trails in Sussex County 2023 This perimeter trail traverses the refuge’s woods, fields, wetlands Located in the Prime Hook National Wildlife Refuge, the Blue Goose Trail is one of six walking trails that lace their way through the woods, fields and wetlands of this great natural habitat. Prime Hook itself was originally discovered and named by the Dutch who called it Priume Hoek which means Plum Point, due to the abundance of the wild beach plums that thrive in the dunes here. This trail was named after the Blue Goose logo (designed by J.N. “Ding” Darling) which has become the symbol of the entire National Wildlife Refuge system. It was originally a 1930s raised dike that wandered through the marsh and woodland interface. Hurricane Sandy’s high tides damaged some of the dike and other parts of the Blue Goose Trail so be prepared for detours. The Blue Goose, at 1.4 miles, is one of the longer of the refuge’s trails and is located at the western and northern perimeter of the trail network. It seems longer than the others because it is circumferential and doesn’t curve as tightly on itself as do some of the other trails. Visitors who arrive by car should consider the logistics of their point of embarkation as well as the intended length of their hike, as most trails will involve some return path on Turkle Pond Road. Blue Goose can be divided into four separate loops, all of which can utilize the roadway to segment the trip, if the trek must be short and sweet. We experienced this trail in two episodes. Our first venture began at the same trailhead parking area where the Black Farm Trail starts and is marked by a few educational kiosks and a small off-road parking area with a four-car capacity. Reading an exhibit there, one is reminded that the refuge is home to many songbirds including the Eastern Kingbird, Yellow Warbler, Gray Catbird and the Common Yellowthroat. This central loop begins with a stand of old-growth trees on the left and an open field on the right that gradually yields to a forest habitat where shrubs and small trees will be dominant. After one turns to follow the curve of the woodland, the opportunity arises to take a forked path to the left which yields a generous view of sparkling Turkle Pond. The pond supports the deer, woodchucks, fox and other animals from the surrounding woodland. BLUE GOOSE TRAIL • Distance: 1.4 miles. • Calories burned: About 150. • Parking: East end, designated trail head parking along Turkle Pond Road (main road into Prime Hook National Wildlife Refuge, off Rt. 16,) same trail head as Black Farm Trail. West end, parking area for refuge headquarters at the end of Turkle Pond Road near canoe and kayak launching ramp. • Trail Highlights: This is a new trail in the Prime Hook system. It affords great views of the back end of Turkle Pond, a shallow, freshwater pond that hardens quickly in freezing weather. The trail passes through excellent songbird habitat and follows an old dike along the edge of the refuge’s extensive freshwater marsh system. The trail also connects with a boardwalk trail that provides visitors close-up views of the marsh and its denizens. Be prepared for some detours as there was some damage from Hurricane Sandy. With the federal budget as tight as it is, repairs can take much longer than might be hoped. PRIME HOOK WILDLIFE REFUGE • BLUE GOOSE
Great Walks & Trails in Sussex County 2023 • 25 A bald eagle nest also overlooks Turkle Pond but usually avoids detection. Passing into a fern-covered zone, the Blue Goose trail veers off into the tall, quiet, cool architecture of mature oak, pine, holly, hickory, poplar and maple trees. Before long, the trail winds gently back to the open country path. For the second episode on Blue Goose Trail, we began in the early morning, parking by the refuge administration center near the canoe launching ramp. To get to the eastern end of Blue Goose, one starts as if headed to the Boardwalk Trail. Just as you arrive at the boardwalk, the Blue Goose signpost appears at the left. Even if time is short, it is worth walking out on the raised board-path to view the lilies on the marsh pond and the wall of trees mirrored beyond. This is a good place to birdwatch. In fall, this is a prime place to watch honking geese take off and land. This end of the Blue Goose Trail is dark and mysterious - a different world. Now the path is a raised ridge surrounded by swampy wet soil and pools crisscrossed by fallen trees. The trail is narrow and more difficult to traverse, as it is riddled with exposed tree roots and moss. If you want to look around, stop your walking to avoid tripping. One is now virtually off the beaten path - and surrounded by a variety of wetland and woodland plants. Myriad creatures large and small live in the dense undergrowth on this special piece of Earth. Periodically a wood structure appears to bridge a small ravine and remind us that we are not alone in this world. Eventually the trail crosses a southbound utility road giving an opportunity to complete a shorter jaunt. But just across the road, one can dive back into this timeless abyss of marsh and woodland. Continuing into this second segment, the trail winds gently and finally becomes a long, straight and narrow wooded tunnel, occasionally bisected by a thick tree trunk. Suddenly, we are back at the exit to Turkle Pond Road that we experienced on our previous hike. The walk back to the car is also a pleasant experience with overgrown fields at each side. Mame and Mike Cohalan contributed this article. Map on page 21. Whatever the season, the emphasis at Prime Hook National Wildlife Refuge is on wildlife and the natural world. Great blue herons stand as wary sentinels along the marshes of the refuge. They stand motionless in shallow water until their watchful eyes detect the movement of a small fish and then it’s meal time.
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28 • Great Walks & Trails in Sussex County 2023 Walk the river, past historic homes, through parks, to Dogfish brewery This walk goes through the heart of one of Sussex County’s most historic communities, dating back to the early 18th century and named for the famed English revolutionary poet, John Milton, author of Paradise Lost. The walk begins in Milton’s Memorial Park at the head of the Broadkill River. There is good and safe parking here and it’s just steps away from bakeries and restaurants where you can enjoy coffee and pastries or sandwiches and a cold beer. (Just a few blocks away is the famed Dogfish Head Brewery where you can take tours and buy some of this locally crafted beer. Ask anyone in town to point you there.) In the mid-19th century, this area at the head of the river was the site of an active shipbuilding industry that took advantage of native populations of straight-growing Atlantic cypresses and strong-grained oaks to build threeand four-masted schooners that plied the coastal trade routes of a developing new nation. The river was wider and deeper then and accommodated 10-foot drafts - at high tide - so that completed ships could be pulled by lines down the Broadkill River to the Delaware Bay. Our walk crosses a pedestrian bridge just below the Milton Public Library and passes behind Irish Eyes Restaurant where you can enjoy outdoor seating according to the season. Then turn left on Front Street in the heart of downtown and walk a block past the firehouse before turning right on Chestnut Street and heading up into the old residential district of Milton past many fine examples of 19th- and early 20th-century architecture. This stretch of the walk also passes Goshen Cemetery where you can stop in and familiarize yourself with some of the old English family names - Hazzard, Paynter, Isaacs, Betts and many more - that have figured so prominently in the town’s history. Continue up Chestnut for a total of three blocks before turning right on Prettyman Street and then right again on Federal Street, the main street of the town. Go about a block and a half on Federal Street and then turn left between two houses on a brick walkway. Amble MILTON HISTORIC WALK • Distance: 1.6 miles. • Calories burned: About 150. • Parking: Milton Memorial Park at the head of Broadkill River in the heart of downtown Milton. Enter the parking area via Chandler Street which turns off of Union Street near Milton Public Library. • Trail Highlights: This delightful walk offers wonderful views of river and pond, well-maintained period architecture and a nice mix of residential and business. In many respects, you will feel like you have been in a park for much of the walk’s length. TOWN OF MILTON • HISTORIC TOUR The Governors’ Walk skirts the Broadkill River’s headwaters. The Milton tour meanders down a hillside past John Milton’s statue and along picturesque Wagamon’s Pond.
Great Walks & Trails in Sussex County 2023 • 29 down a hill through a beautiful park, with colorful plantings, benches and pergolas, toward the sparkling Wagamon’s Pond. This hillside park has become home to a life-sized sculpture of John Milton commissioned by a Milton community foundation and has become a popular place to take photos with the famed poet. Follow the brick walkway down to Mulberry St., which crosses the twicebuilt dam across Wagamon’s Pond. On your right, just before the Mulberry Street bridge, is the town’s fishing pier where anglers catch a variety of small fish throughout the year, as opposed to the trophy-sized large-mouth bass available in the pond and farther down the Broadkill. Our walk then turns right along the river on the Governors’ Walk that pays tribute to five different governors - four for Delaware and one for Wyoming - born in Milton. The pleasant walkway ends at Union Street where our walk then turns left. In front of you at that point will be the newly restored Milton Museum which offers a more in-depth history of the community through which you have been walking. Cross Union Street here and walk beside the Milton Public Library back toward Milton’s Memorial Park where you began your journey. The Dogfish Head Craft Brewery is located along Chestnut Street a few blocks south of Milton’s main downtown area. John Milton is always happy for people to stop by his parkside bench for a chat.
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32 • Great Walks & Trails in Sussex County 2023 With completion of bridge, town’s trail system continues to expand In early 2021, contractors completed an extension of the paved Milton Rail Trail from Chestnut Street on the southeast end of town westward about half a mile to Lavinia Street. The trail follows the alignment of the mostly abandoned Queen Anne Railroad. That railroad in the first quarter of the 20th century carried passengers from Love Point on Kent Island, across the Delmarva Peninsula and through Milton to its final destination at the Transportation Pier in Lewes. Most of the rail bed is no longer serviceable but there is still one active segment between Ellendale and the Baker Petroleum Depot west of Milton along Route 30. The first phase of the Milton rail trail between Chestnut Street and Federal Street was completed a few years ago and provides a nicely paved and lighted walking and bicycling trail along with benches and exercise stations. The phase completed in 2021 connected Federal and Lavinia streets with a 1,600-foot paved surface 10 feet wide. The trail provides a safe walking and bicycling trail into the main part of Milton particularly for the residents of homes in the Wagamon’s West Shores community that abuts the trail. As part of the $1 million project, a Queen Anne Railroad trestle bridge has been repurposed for the trail with extensive restoration work. The trestle carries trail users over the creek that connects Diamond and Wagamon’s ponds, part of the headwaters of the Broadkill River in the center of Milton. In the meantime, conceptual plans are being considered which would create a connection between the Milton rail trail and the Lewes-Georgetown Trail to the southeast. That would create a continuous trail from Milton to Georgetown, Lewes and Rehoboth Beach. MILTON RAIL TRAIL SYSTEM Construction is now complete on repurposing the former Queen Anne Railroad trestle bridge as part of Phase Two of the Milton Rail Trail project which opened to the public early in 2021.
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Great Walks & Trails in Sussex County 2023 • 35 EAGLE'S NEST CHURCH
36 • Great Walks & Trails in Sussex County 2023 Hike miles of trails in Delaware’s largest reforestation effort While rapidly growing Sussex County races toward the future, The Nature Conservancy’s Delaware Chapter tries to turn back the clock at the Pemberton Forest Preserve’s Ponder Tract. Once dedicated to timber production, Ponder now welcomes back native hardwood forest. With an established trail system throughout, Ponder gives visitors a front-row seat to the transformation from former working lands into native coastal forest. Turning off Route 16 between Milton and Ellendale, the ample parking lot is immediately in sight. Tract information is readily available at the weatherprotected kiosk. Please sign the attendance register! The Ponder Tract harbors such wildlife as the bobwhite quail, raccoon, eastern box turtle and the majestic pileated woodpecker. Monarch butterflies will play and flutter around the tract from July through the end of August, before they depart south in migration to Mexico and Costa Rica. Old logging roads are referred to as Governor’s Way, Connector Spur, Ingram Branch Way, Frog Pond Trail, Piney Fork Lane, Pemberton Loop and Ponder’s Road. All totaled, there are approximately nine miles of trail roads. Note that the trails are closed during hunting seasons. The preserve’s trails feature interpretive and directional signage as well as benches. Public access and parking is just off Route 16, about two miles from the Route 30 intersection or about four miles from the Route 16 intersection with Route 13 in Ellendale. For more information, contact the Conservancy’s Dover office at 302-883- 3519, or visit the Places We Protect section of the Delaware Chapter website: www.nature.org/Delaware. Spend the day with your lunch and bring plenty of tick and mosquito repellent. Ponder Tract is sheer solitude. NINE MILES OF FOREST TRAILS • Location: Approximately four miles west of Milton on Route 16, north side. Watch carefully for entrance. Plenty of parking inside, after a short lane. • Distance: Up to nine miles of trails depending on how many you choose to hike and loop together. Trails are well marked. Some are logging roads. • Calories burned: Figure about 250-300 per hour depending on how vigorously you walk. If you’re planning pizza that night, walk faster and longer! • Parking: Plenty of room for cars and bicycles in a marked, but unpaved, area inside entrance. • Highlights: This is Delaware’s largest-ever private reforestation effort. Trails wind through 900 acres of pine and hardwood forest. The area is used heavily by a wide variety of songbirds. Deep quiet offers plenty of opportunity to hear a wide range of bird songs and calls. Closed during hunting season. No fee required. NATURE CONSERVANCY - PONDER TRACT Inside the entrance to the Ponder Tract hiking trails is plenty of parking and a kiosk with trails information.
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40 • Great Walks & Trails in Sussex County 2023 Kayak to Milton or hike in the rolling terrain of this Sussex gem People who make the effort to visit Delaware Nature Conservancy’s Edward H. McCabe Preserve Trail on the banks of the Broadkill River will be richly rewarded. Not only will they experience a unique hiking experience that includes topography unavailable elsewhere in Sussex County, they will also get to travel the pastoral Round Pole Bridge Road (Road 257) between Rt. 1 and Rt. 88 (Cave Neck Road). The road crosses Beaverdam Creek on a small but scenic bridge and passes several small spreads including one that pastures emus, llamas and long-horned cattle. A three-mile hiking trail loops through the 143-acre forested refuge that Constance P. McCabe donated to the Nature Conservancy in 1993 to be preserved in its natural state as a memorial to her husband and grandson. From a small, dedicated parking area just off Round Pole Bridge Road, the trail dives into a rolling woods of maples, gums, oaks, tulip poplars, dogwoods, hollies, American beeches and loblolly pines. It passes through a former meadow area that has been replanted to expand the forest and then follows an old, grassy road down a gentle hill toward the lazy Broadkill. A bench – one of many on the trail – affords a fine view down the river just before the trail reaches sea level and a dock. The dock serves as a take-out point for canoeists and kayakers who can paddle a twomile river trail between Milton’s Memorial Park and the McCabe Preserve. For a full day of outdoor exercise and fun, people can combine the paddling trail and the hiking trail using Milton and its restaurants and parks as a fine point to start and end the adventure. The complete workout will include upper body and legs. Back to the trail: From the dock area where open grassy areas offer good picnicking opportunities, the trail follows the river for a while before turning up into a rolling section of hardwoods. The trees are larger in this area and the forest floor is cleaner and more open than in the opening sections of the trail. The trail hasn’t been heavily used up until now so keep a close eye out for its turns. It is fairly well marked but it is still possible to get turned around a little. Take mental notes of where benches are and refer to the fine trail brochure available in the kiosk at the EDWARD H. MCCABE PRESERVE AND GREENWAY TRAIL • Distance: 3 miles hiking and 2 miles canoeing. • Calories Burned: about 250 hiking and 350 canoeing (round trip). • Parking: Designated area on Round Pole Bridge Road (Road 257) between Rt. 1 and Hudson Road, just east of the Broadkill River bridge, and Cave Neck Road (Road 88). Large sign marks parking area. • Trail Highlights: This trail includes views of the Broadkill River and rolling topography in high ground areas that are unusual in flat Sussex County. A birding brochure in a kiosk at the parking area notes more than 100 species of birds that can be found in this rich habitat. NATURE CONSERVANCY • MCCABE PRESERVE This aerial photograph shows the Broadkill River as it meanders above and right of McCabe Preserve. The trailhead and parking are just off Round Pole Bridge Road in the lower left corner. Aerial support provided by Lighthawk.
Great Walks & Trails in Sussex County 2023 • 41 head of the trail to maintain a sense of where you are. The forest is relatively small so it’s tough to get lost. As the trail loops back from its northern end, it heads away from the river and follows the preserve boundary and fields traditionally cultivated with corn and soybeans. For one fairly short stretch, the trail emerges from the woods and follows a grassy stretch along the farm field. It then returns to the woods and eventually reconnects with the first part of the trail just north of the canoe dock. At that point you will be doubling back to the parking area on Round Pole Bridge Road. If you dawdle and take pictures, enjoy looking closely for wild flora and fauna; and, if you aren’t in a hurry, it’s easy to spend an hour and a half in the McCabe Preserve. Depending on the time of the year, take precautions against chiggers, mosquitoes, ticks, sunburn and poison ivy. In the preserve’s southeastern field, you can see thousands of seedlings that have been planted as part of an initiative by the Delaware Nature Conservancy to further expand the McCabe Preserve forest.
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44 • Great Walks & Trails in Sussex County 2023 Early 1920s architecture adds historic touch to 44 miles of trails Located on 16 different tracts in the heart of Sussex County north of Georgetown, Redden State Forest’s more than 13,000 acres offer 44 miles of trails enjoyed by hikers, birdwatchers and hunters. The most popular trail is a four-mile loop around the 1,836-acre headquarters tract along east Redden Road. According to forester Matt Hansen, the headquarters tract trail passes through a mix of hardwood trees and loblolly pines. Along the trail is a primitive campground outfitted with a number of sites for tenters and trailer campers. There are no electrical or wastewater hookups. The loop trail is well traveled and easy to follow. In addition to going through thick growths of woods, the trail also passes through cut-over areas, across bridges through low-lying swamps and smaller meadow areas. Those who are more adventurous can take off on smaller trails that have been trod by hunters over the decades. The trail also passes an historic lodge constructed by Pennsylvania Railroad during that enterprise’s heyday in the early 20th century. Railroad executives used the lodge for hunting excursions and conferences. Today it is available to groups for picnics, conferences and events. The classic lodge architecture is worthy of note. Hikers using the trails of Redden Forest are advised to keep track of hunting seasons as the woods are open for upland game hunters after deer, squirrels and rabbits. “That’s most of the time between fall and the first of the year so during those seasons it’s best to wear bright orange to be safe,” said Hansen. Most of the hunting activity is in the early morning and late afternoon hours but even in the middle of the day it is HEADQUARTERS best to be cautious and aware. LOOP TRAIL • Distance: approximately four miles. Forest’s 16 different tracts have a total of 44 miles of trails. • Calories burned: About 300 walking or 200 bicycling. • Parking: Drive north on Rt. 113 from Georgetown and turn east on East Redden Road. Turn right into headquarters just past railroad tracks. Park at headquarters building which is on the right after fishing pond. Trailhead and maps are nearby. • Trail Highlights: Wide trails and flat walking also available for mountain bikers. Historic Redden Lodge is noteworthy. Lots of smaller, offshoot trails also available for those with less fear of getting lost and with plenty of time. REDDEN STATE FOREST The forester’s house in the Redden State Forest headquarters area displays the distinctive shingle-style architecture popular at the turn of the 20th century. This structure and the historic hunting lodge deeper in the forest were built between 1900 and 1902.
Great Walks & Trails in Sussex County 2023 • 45 Most of the forest land is open to hiking with many of the trails being old logging roads. Green and white state forest signs delineate forest property, and Hansen said boundaries are marked with yellow blazes on trees to alert hikers and hunters when they are entering or exiting state lands. Aerial photo maps showing the different tracts of Redden State Forest and their various trails are available seven days a week at the headquarters tract. After turning into the main entrance off East Redden Road, just east of the railroad tracks, pass the ball field and picnic area on your left and the small fishing pond on your right. The headquarters building will be on your right just past the fishing pond. The main entrance to the building is by the screened-in section where the maps are available in a rack. There are maps for each of the tracts as well as a master map showing all of the tracts. Call 302-856-2893 for further information about Redden State Forest. The former Pennsylvania Railroad lodge at Redden Forest is available for public use.
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48 • Great Walks & Trails in Sussex County 2023 Stroll the shady streets of Sussex County’s seat of government Georgetown has a history as rich and colorful as any municipality in the nation’s first state, and it’s a history that longtime residents protect with a passion and with an undying sense of place and purpose. It’s also a community that lends itself to easy walking on flat streets lined with old trees, historic homes and churches. See the accompanying map and descriptions of some of the town’s important places and start walking to take a look at them all. The origins of the Sussex County Seat date back to the earliest days of the country, to a time when a difficult trip to Lewes across what was then very swampy, hard-to-navigate land made conducting business difficult. Believed to have been named after State Sen. George Mitchell, the head of a group of commissioners hired to purchase the original tract of land, build a courthouse and jail, and sell lots in the central part of Sussex County, Georgetown officially became Sussex County’s Seat of Justice on Oct. 26, 1791. The decision to centralize Sussex County’s Seat of Justice was a proactive one–one that allowed the county seat to be about 16 miles from the eastern, northern and western borders of the county and within 18 miles of the southern border. But locals prefer to generalize those numbers, saying the county seat is simply “16 miles from anywhere in Sussex County.” In fact, Georgetown’s former craft brewery, 16 Mile, was named to commemorate that saying. Lying square in the middle of Delaware’s most picturesque county, just a few minutes from the Atlantic coastline and featuring some of the most affordable living in the U.S., the historic town of Georgetown is a true one-of-a-kind gem in today’s modern world. Having passionately embraced the “slower lower” way of life that has become synonymous with the southern reaches of Delaware, the world seems to move a little slower here – and that’s just how the thousands of people who call the area home like it. Life is supposed to be less hectic here – it’s expected that people stop and smell the roses from time to time, say hello to their neighbors and enjoy all that life has to offer in what many still refer to as God’s Country. Georgetown has changed over the years, to be sure, but the nucleus of what the town was in its infancy still remains – the beautiful Circle in the middle of town still welcomes visitors, as well as residents and all those who wish or need to conduct business in the town’s governmental office buildings. The Sussex County Seat has always been a welcoming municipality, and its quaint charm and hospitable nature will likely define the growing municipality for decades to come – its people will insist on it. The reason Georgetown has continued to grow and prosper through the years and is now firmly planted as the home of industry in southern Delaware is because of its continuing appeal to residents and newcomers alike. Not far from the beaches, Georgetown still maintains the historic feel of a unique Sussex County small town. LOOKING AHEAD: Delaware’s Department of Transportation, in accordance with former Gov. Jack Markell’s pathways and trails initiative, is working on completing a 12-mile trail along the railroad easement between Georgetown and Lewes. This extended trail will merge nicely into Georgetown’s established Walking Tour including the town’s historic train station. Stay tuned for further progress in the years ahead. TOWN OF GEORGETOWN • HISTORIC TOUR The Georgetown Train Station, constructed in 1892, is part of a plan that will see a rail-trail project linking Lewes and the county seat Sussex County Courthouse.
Great Walks & Trails in Sussex County 2023 • 49 Here is a sampling of the 24 stops offered on the walking tour. To see the full list, visit georgetownde.com/ gorgtour.html 1. The Circle or Public Square was designed by Commissioner Rhoads Shankland following the purchase of 76 acres for the new Sussex County seat on May 9, 1791. Legend has it that a slave girl named Liz was responsible for plowing the center of the Town Square and planting the trees there. The Circle is on the National Register of Historic Places. 2. New Sussex County CourtHouse. 1 The Circle. Designed by renowned architect William Strickland, the structure was built between 1837- 1839 on the same location as the Old Courthouse. The portico and cupola were added in 1914. 3. Town Hall. 39 The Circle. Formerly the site of a Tavern built in 1820 and called the “Rising Sun,” the brick structure was built in 1921 for the Delaware Trust Company. The building was donated to the Town in 1965 by Wilmington Trust Company. 4. Old Fire Hall. 37 The Circle. The first fire apparatus was purchased in 1831 and the Georgetown Fire Company was organized in 1903. The company moved to the old fire hall building on The Circle in 1930 and to their new building on South Bedford Street in 1966. 5. The Mansion House. 28 The Circle. Greek Revival style of the front section of the structure dates to 1830- 1866. The older back portion is believed to have been constructed in 1799. The home was once owned by Charles Sudler Richards, who served as Delaware Secretary of State and Chief Justice of the State Supreme Court. 6. The Paynter House. 26 The Circle. Constructed in the early 1800s, the house was occupied by the Paynter Family, which included physicians, a bank president, and a Delaware Supreme Court Justice. 8. The Brick Hotel. 18 The Circle. The inn was constructed in 1836 and served as the Sussex County Courthouse during construction of the new Courthouse. Until the 1950s, it operated as an Inn and Tavern, and then became home to a bank until the late 1990s. Completely restored in 2008 for inn and restaurant, The Brick Hotel is now being converted for offices of the state’s Department of Justice. 9. Old Farmer’s Bank. 13 The Circle. Farmer’s Bank was chartered in 1807 and a fine brick structure built in 1852. The present Georgian-style structure was constructed in 1971. Farmer’s Bank was sold in 1981. Mellon Bank acquired the bank in 1983, and it is now Citizens Bank. 10. Old Georgetown Post Office. 2 The Circle. After 33 separate postmasters and post offices scattered throughout the Town, the cornerstone of the old post office was laid on June 4, 1932 and cost $63,452. The structure was acquired in 1994 by the Sussex County Council for meeting chambers and council offices. 11. Old Sussex County CourtHouse. 10 South Bedford St. This building was constructed in 1791- 1792 and met the exact dimensions of the former County Courthouse in Lewes; it was moved from its original Circle location in 1837 to make way for the present courthouse. The structure was restored in 1976 and is the oldest wooden courthouse still in use by the court system (on occasion). 17. The Judges. 104 West Market St. Built in 1809 by Judge Peter Robinson, the Early-Georgian structure has served as the home of several judges, State Supreme Court Justices and two Delaware Secretaries of State. 19. The Alfred Robinson House. 112 North Bedford St. Constructed on The Circle before 1800, this grand residence was moved to its present location in 1857. The giant Magnolia tree is said to have been a gift of a sea captain in the late 1850s. 22. Historic Georgetown Train Station. 140 Layton Ave. Built as a singlestory structure just prior to 1868 when the railroad began service to Georgetown, the building was purchased and restored by the Historic Georgetown Association in 1996. Several thousand board feet of the old 1865 lumber were salvaged. 22,000 original paver bricks were used to veneer the building’s exterior and loading docks, and old floor joists - many of which are 135 years old - were salvaged to restore the second story. The Train Station suffered a devastating fire in May 2011 and is once again totally restored. Rt. 18/404 Rt. 9 to the Beach Private-not open for public tours Public welcome- see operating hours West Market Street! East Market Street ! South Bedford Street ! South Race Street ! North Race Street ! North Bedford Street! East Laurel Street! North Front Street! S. Railroad Avenue! North Railroad Avenue! West Laurel Street! South Race Street ! South Front Street! South Railroad Avenue! South Race Street ! West Pine Street! East Pine Street! Rt. 9 to Rt. 113! 8
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