51 CLIENT CONSULTATION FORM Date: ___________________________________________________________________ Name:______________________________________________________________ Address: ___________________________________________________________________ Phone: (w) ___________________________ (h) __________________________ (mobile) _________________________________________________________ (email) __________________________________________________________ Date of Birth: _________________________________________________________________ Medical Details: Health Condition: (such as diabetes, epilepsy, blood pressure, pacemaker, haemophilia etc) ___________________________________________________________________ Current Medication: ___________________________________________________________________ Allergies or Allergic reactions: ___________________________________________________________________ Recent surgery, recent injections for varicose veins, recent injections botox/fillers ___________________________________________________________________ Do you have arthritis or recent fractures? ___________________________________________________________________ Have you had any recent skin infections? ___________________________________________________________________ Sign________________________________ Date____________________
52 MEDICAL CONSULTATION FORM FACIAL Please tick if you have any of the following: Contagious Disease such as cold, cold sore, flu, Covid, HIV, Hepatitis A or B, herpes. Bacterial Infection such as conjunctivitis, stye, boil, impetigo (school sores) Fungal Infection such as blepharitis, ringworm, Candida (yeast infection) Parasitic Infection such as head lice or scabies Any unusual or undiagnosed lumps or swelling Recent broken bones or fractures on the face Haemophilia Facial cancer Tooth abscess Unstable Blood Pressure Heart Condition Recent neck or head injury Fever Recent surgery or scarring Severe Acne Open cuts or sores Diabetes Skin sensitizing medication or topical treatment Recent fillers or injectables Rosacea, eczema, dermatitis, psoriasis
53 Below is an example of a client record card. These cards are readily available in blank form at any newsagency or office supply shop. It is quite simple to pre-print them on any home computer. Don't worry if you do not have the facilities to pre-print them, you can just write in the relevant information. You can also keep your records on a computer program. There are many good salon record keeping programs around. It is very important that you keep accurate client records. You need to collect the name, address, phone number and date of birth of each client. Email addresses are also handy and a good way to send out information on specials without any expense. In the lined area you need to fill in the date and type of service you have performed. It is also a good idea to record any problems or existing conditions in this area and have the client sign the card so that it does not come back on you. It is a good way to track the frequency of each client's visit and identify those who are no longer coming for any reason. Your local council health department will also require you to keep an accurate record in case of any outbreak, and will want to see the record cards when they come to inspect your salon. Name: Mary Jones Ph: 9123 4567 Address: 1 Smith Street, Melbourne 3000 DOB: 7-8-1999 Email: mary j @hotmail.com 24-04-2020 Deluxe Manicure with scrub and paraffin to help with arthritis and dry skin Damaged nail ring finger of left hand finished with clear polish and top coat ___________________________________________________________________________
54 PRODUCTS & EQUIPMENT Manicure Nail Table You can get by with a small desk or table to start with or even working across the corner of a dining table, but eventually for the comfort of yourself and your clients you will need a professional manicure table to work on. Cotton Wool For removing nail polish and cleansing the nail. Also used for soaking off gel polish/shellac. Nail Polish Remover – Non Acetone For removing normal nail polish. A non-acetone based nail polish remover is much gentler on the natural nail plate. Will not remove gel polish/shellac, you will need pure acetone for this.
55 Acetone Pure acetone is used to soak of gel polish/shellac in either a bowl or wrap technique. Should not be used to remove normal nail polish as it is too harsh on the nail plate. Anti Bacterial Solution To disinfect hands before procedure. Can also be used to dehydrate the nails in prep for gel polish/shellac as it is alcohol based. Hospital Grade Disinfectant This is to disinfect your metal instruments after they have been thoroughly washes with warm soapy water and rinsed well. You can also use this on your files and buffers, but single use would be better.
56 Manicure Bowl For soaking the fingers during the service Nail Files Fine grit nail file 180 or 240 for filing natural nails into shape. 240 grit block buffer for cleaning around edges and prepping nail plate for gel polish/shellac Antibacterial Soak Put this into the water in the manicure bowl or foot spac to soften the nails and skin and clean under the nails Cuticle Softener/Remover/Conditioner This can be called cuticle remover, softener or conditioner, usually all the same sort of product. Helps to soften and remove excess cuticle from and around the nail plate.
57 Cuticle Oil Used to condition cuticles and skin around the nail plate and the nail plate itself Hand Lotion Good quality hand cream to soften and moisturise the skin Cuticle Clippers To remove loose hanging skin around the cuticle area. Orangewood stick Wrapped with cotton wool to push cuticles back. Used to clean under the free edge of the nail. Also used to remove excess polish from around cuticle area
58 Arm and hand rest Placed under the towel for the client to rest her arm on Hand Towels Placed over the arm cushion for the manicure to help dry the hands and nails. Must be appropriately laundered after each client. Nail Polish You have a choice of normal nail enamel or gel polish/shellac or both. You will need the appropriate base and top coats and can get by with a small range of colours to start with.
59 Pedicure You will need all of the above equipment used for manicures plus: Foot Spa and stool Do not go to too much expense to start with. You can get by with just a big tub of some kind to soak the feet, or you can get just a normal household foot spa, they are not expensive. You can get a small stool to work with and just rest the client’s foot on your legs to start with. The next step up would be a proper pedicure stool, and further from that a commercial massage chair with built in foot spa, but there is no need for you to ever get one of these unless you want to. A few options below, all readily available online or from most beauty wholesalers.
60 Foot Paddle or Pumice Foot paddle or pumice to remove dead skin from feet after soaking. PLEASE NOTE: It is illegal for salons in most areas to use any form of blade on the feet, this is for podiatrists and chiropodists only and not only are there heavy fines if you get caught using one, your insurance will not cover you if you injure someone with a blade. Toe Nail Clippers Nail Clippers Large size for toes, the smaller ones for fingers will not clip through most toe nails.
61 Optional Extras for add on services. Hand and Foot Scrub Hand and foot scrub to exfoliate the hands and feet prior to massage. Hand and Foot Mask Hand and foot mask to apply to hands or feet after the massage for specific skin treatments, such as hydration, softening or nourishing Paraffin Wax and Pot Paraffin Wax and Pot to apply to hands or feet after the massage with treatment creams or oils for instant skin softening results.
62 ROOM SET UP You truly need only the smallest of areas to set up for these services if you plan well and have a place for everything. Things that will be required by your local council health department will be: The construction of the premises should meet with local council requirements. If working in a room that is part of your house, this should be no issue, but if it is a bungalow or garage that you are converting they will need to check it is a solid structure and they will also check for things like easy and safe access to the area, so no uneven paths or hazards. The finish on all surfaces within your work area must be made of materials that are easily cleaned. The floor should be non slip, tiles or vinyl only – NO CARPET, and should be even and easy to clean. The area between the floor and wall should be sealed. Adequate lighting and good ventilation. A hand basin with hot and cold running water. This is for you and your client to wash your hands and they prefer it is in the work area. A separate sink that has hot and cold running water for cleaning of equipment. This does not have to be in your work area but they will want to inspect it. You will need clearly marked areas for clean and dirty equipment. Liquid soap and hand sanitiser, preferably in a non touch, automatic container which you can get from sites like eBay for about $20. Paper towel of automatic hand dryer for drying hands. Non touch bin, can be foot peddle or automatic. Storage cupboard for your products where they cannot be reached by children. The premises must be kept in a clean and hygienic condition at all times. Treatment areas such as benches must be cleaned between each client. Towels should be changed for each client and properly laundered and disinfected. While the area needs to be clean and sterile you can also make it professional and inviting by adding things like plants, soft prints on the walls, soft easy listening music, candles and any other personal touches you like as long as everything can be cleaned and it is not cluttered and causing a walkway hazard.
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66 MODULE FOUR Nail Shaping OVAL AND STRAIGHT SIDED OVAL STRAIGHT SIDED OVAL Allow the nail to grow out so you can keep the side straight as this will keep the nail stronger. Towards the top, start rounding the tip until a nice oval shape is formed. With a straight sided oval, the nail can be reshaped into a more oval shape if the side is damaged. OVAL Leave a small amount of the side straight and then start shaping nail into an oval (egg) shape. The less straight sidewall on the nail the weaker the nail will be. There is little room for re-shaping if the side of the nail is damaged. This is an ideal shape for nails that are thick or wide as it give them a more delicate, refined appearance.
67 SQUARE SQUARE Allow the nail to grow out and keep the sides completely straight. File straight across at the top of the free edge. With the straight sides this is the strongest nail of all, but completely square look is more appropriate for longer nails. The short square nails can make the hands look a bit blunt and pudgy. POINTED POINTED Start to shape the nails at the start of the free edge. Take each side into a point at the middle. The pointed nail is not very flattering on any hand, and these nails are not very strong as the straight sides are totally filed away.
68 ROUND ROUND The round nail is idea for shorter nails as it will give the fingers an elongated look. Depending on the length of the nails, keep the sides straight for about 1 to 1.5mm and then begin to file the sides until a round tip is achieved. This is a very strong nail ideal for both long and short nails. SQUOVAL SQUOVAL Fast becoming the most the more popular choice as it is not as severe as the square shape but flatter than oval or round. Keep the sides straight all the way to the top, file the top flat as with the square, then slightly round the corners. This is a strong nail and suitable for both long and short nails.
69 STILETTO This is another shape that is becoming very popular, but may only be a fashion trend for a little while as it is quite impractical for everyday wear. There are a variety of other shaped you can also use. Some are slight variations on the above nail shapes, but some of these would be for a feature nail only and not practical for everyday wear. Watch video in Module 4
70 NAIL PAINTING There is no magic bullet when it comes to nail painting it just takes practice. This information relates to normal nail enamel, however the actual application technique is the same for gel polish, but the prep and removal for gel polish is quite different and is shown in the videos in Module 9 and explained further on in this manual. Good preparation for nail enamel will make all the difference to how it applies and lasts. If you nail plate is not well prepped and clean of all oil, cream and grime the polish will not bond well to it and will start to chip and peel quickly. Once you have completed all other steps of the service you need to dip the fingertips into the soak water and dry the nail plate well using the towel to continue gently pushing the cuticles back. It is a good idea to explain to your clients about the benefit of pushing the cuticles back gently with the towel every time they wash their hands. It will keep their nail plates long and the cuticles in much better condition giving you less work to do at each service. Before you paint you then need to wipe over the nail plate with some non-acetone polish remover or anti bac spray to make sure all traces of cream and oil are removed and to help dehydrate the nail plate for better adhesion of the base coat. Always make sure your polish is at a workable consistency. If it is too thick it will not apply well and peel quickly. If you polish starts getting thick and tacky you can add some polish thinner to keep it workable. You are better doing more thin coats than less thick coats, and the less strokes you can do to get the nail covered the smoother the end result will be. You also need to get used to holding the bottle in the palm of your hand that is supporting the client’s hand. Please watch the video on this. It is more professional and will save you having to chase the bottle around your table. Ideally you want to get it on in three strokes, but that depends entirely on the size and length of the nails. Start at the base (cuticle end) and apply one stroke down the middle of the nail. Then go back to the middle of the base of the nail, slide the brush around the cuticle and then down the side to fill in the rest of the nail, you may need to do this one, two or if necessary 3 strokes per side until the whole side of the nail is covered making sure the polish is neat and smooth around the cuticle. Then repeat on the other side of the nail. This is not easy and takes a lot of practice. Some colours and polishes apply better than others and it is usually to do with the quality of the brush.
71 There are some colours that are very hard to apply such as white, very pale pinks, black or very dark colours and these need to be absolutely perfect to look good. If you brush any polish onto the skin you need to remove it using either an orangewood stick wrapped in cotton wool and dipped in non acetone polish remover or a polish corrector pen. The nails should look perfect when your client leaves, and make sure they sit for plenty of time to allow the polish to dry. ALWAYS USE A BASE COAT OR NAIL STRENGTHENER The base coat or nail strengthener does multiple tasks. It is the glue that holds everything together. Base coats are designed to be sticky so they bond very well to the nail plate (with proper preparation) and the coloured polish will then bond very well to the base coat. Using a base coat will help the polish stay on much longer. It also helps prevent nail staining from the coloured polish, although some very bright or dark colours may oxidize and still manage to stain the nails, but it will be less than if a base coat wasn’t used. ALWAYS USE A TOP COAT The top coat is designed to seal the deal. It is a harder polish which holds its shine better than just colour alone and helps prevent chips and wearing of the colour. Most top coats are also fast drying meaning your client is less likely to smudge the nails. ALWAYS DO THIN COATS Check the consistency of your polish and use polish thinner if necessary. Normally you would do four thin coats, 1 x base, 2 x colour and 1 x top coat. Some polishes are very transparent or naturally very thin so on the odd occasion you may need to do 3 x colour. If you apply your colour thin enough you do not have to wait between coats. By the time you have done all 10 fingers you are ready to go back and start at finger 1 again immediately. Watch video in Module 4
72 THE BENEFITS OF MASSAGE IN HAND AND FOOT TREATMENTS Massage is the oldest known healing art. It dates back to 3000 years before the birth of Christ. The therapeutic value of massage is still recognised as a means of helping us all maintain positive health, in body and mind. By its definition, massage is the systematic manipulation of soft tissue by stroking, kneading and pressing to promote health and healing. It also allows people to touch in a positive way. We all know how comforting touching and stroking can be, both as a giver and a recipient and massage accomplishes this in a constructive way. Keep in mind that the aim of massage is to encourage relaxation and well-being. The massage is the most enjoyable part of the treatment. If done properly this, along with outstanding results is what will keep the clients coming back for more. Your client will get maximum physical and psychological benefit from the massage if she has been made to feel at ease in her surroundings. The appropriate massage will help the skin to function more efficiently. A good massage will cleanse the skin and assist in the removal of impurities by stimulating the circulation. This helps to increase muscular tone, improves the condition of the skin, and helps to correct the natural oil and fluid balance of the skin as well as increase natural cell regeneration. Waste matter will be removed due to a stimulated vascular system as well as bringing extra nourishment and oxygen to the areas being massaged. Fatty tissue and waste matter will also be removed by the lymphatic system. Your client’s hands and/or feet should look and feel better after the correct massage. You will need to study your client’s skin very carefully to establish suitability for massage and vary your technique to suit each individual client. You will need to be careful of certain skin conditions such as hyper-sensitive skins, extremely vascular skin conditions and infection or irritation and adapt your massage accordingly. It is extremely important during the massage that you maintain an even rhythm and establish the correct rate of movement and pressure. Too little pressure and the massage is useless, too much pressure and it may be uncomfortable. A good quality hand or foot cream is an excellent medium for massage. It will not only give you the workability you need, but will be treating the skin at the same time.
73 MODULE FIVE Professional Manicure It is very important to make your client feel comfortable. Ask client to wash and disinfect her hands. You will already have washed and disinfected your own hands. Take a few moments to examine her hands and talk to her, this will help to break the ice. Perhaps offer her tea, coffee or a cold drink. Ask her what length and shape she would like her nails. Remove any existing nail polish. (Try at this stage to get into a routine of starting on one finger of one hand and working your way through to the last finger of the other hand). Shape nails on first hand with light emery board. Always file in one direction or towards the centre of the natural nail holding the board at a slight angle to the tip. Filing back and forth causes friction and will cause the nail layers to separate causing splitting and peeling. Never file corners too deep as this may cause ingrown nails and also weaken the nail. Apply a liberal amount of cuticle remover to cuticle area and under free edge. Wrap an orangewood stick in cotton wool and massage cuticles in circular motion whilst gently pushing back. Do not forget to clean under free edge. Place hand 1 in soak bowl and repeat these steps on hand 2. Remove hand 1 from soak bowl and dry using towel to push cuticles back. Using cuticle clippers carefully remove any loose skin and hang nail being careful not to cut cuticle. Place hand 1 in soak bowl and repeat these steps on hand 2. Lightly run block buffer over the nail going in the direction of the grain, lightly buff with chamois and massage in cuticle oil. Place hand on table and repeat this step on hand 2. Apply hand cream to first hand and perform hand and arm massage. (Step by step guide at the end of this section.) Dip fingertips into soak bowl to remove excess oil and cream from nail plate. Repeat on hand 2. Wipe over nails with non aceton polish remover or anti bac spray to remove any residue cream or oil.
74 Apply base coat or strengthener, 2 coats of colour and top coat. If excess nail enamel is spilled on to client's cuticles an orangewood stick wrapped in cotton wool and dipped in nail polish remove will remove it. Corrector pens are also available. Watch video in Module 5 HAND AND ARM MASSAGE These notes are to be used as a guide to jog your memory after you have watched and learnt the hand and arm massage from the instructional video. Place a sufficient amount of cream into palm of your hand and spread over client's hand and arm up to her elbow. Holding on to hand, using circular motion massage up and down arm from wrist to elbow. Repeat this 3-4 times. Using fingers and thumbs, upward strokes from wrist to elbow, 3-4 times. Turn client's hand over palm down. Massage wrist area and top of hand with small circular motion. Continue same stroke down onto top of hand, sliding up and down from knuckles to wrist. Run thumb up between finger knuckles to wrist, move in to next finger and repeat. Starting with thumb and little finger, pull down finger to tip, squeeze slightly at tip, then small circular motion with thumb back up to top knuckle. Repeat 3-4 times then move into next two fingers. Repeat again, then move into middle finger, supporting hand with your spare hand. Push hand up so that palm faces you. With thumbs, using circular motion massage palm of hand using strong pressure, and working up and down from the wrist to the base of the fingers. Supporting back of hand, push each finger back gently. Supporting wrist hold fingers and roll hand one way and then the other. Place palm down on towel and finish with light stroking. Let hand rest on towel and repeat on other hand.
75 MODULE SIX Professional Pedicure As with the manicure, the first thing you need to do is make your client feel comfortable. Spray her feet and set up her soaking in the foot spa. As she will be soaking for around 10 minutes before you start, it would be a good idea to offer her a hot or cold drink and perhaps have a magazine or daily paper for her to have a look at. Take a few moments to examine her feet and talk to her about what she would like. It is a good idea to have everything ready and you can start your pedicure client soaking while finishing off with another client. Remove foot 1 from bowl. Dry thoroughly not forgetting to dry in between toes and pushing cuticles back with towel. Clip nails. Make sure you clip them straight across and do not cut down into corners, as you may cause ingrown nails. File smooth. Apply a liberal amount of cuticle remove to cuticle area and under free edge. Wrap an orangewood stick in cotton wool and massage cuticles in circular motion whilst gently pushing back. Remove cotton wool and clean under free edge. Place first foot back in soak bowl and repeat on foot 2. Remove foot 1 from soak bowl and pat dry. Using cuticle clippers carefully remove any loose skin and hang nail being careful not to cut cuticle. If corns are present you can nip the top off of them with the cuticle clippers again being careful not to go too deep. Use foot paddle or pumice stone to remove any dry and loose skin from around toes, under ball of foot and around heel. Place foot 1 back into soak bowl and repeat on foot 2. Remove foot 1 from soak bowl and perform leg and foot massage. Detailed instruction at the end of this section. Remove any excess cream from nail plate with cotton wool and polish remover. Place toe separators or thread tissues between toes and rest foot on towel. Repeat on foot 2. Apply base coat or strengthener, 2 coats of colour and top coat. If excess nail enamel is spilled on to client's cuticles an orangewood stick wrapped in cotton wool and dipped in nail polish remover will remove it. Corrector pens are also available. Watch Video in Module 6
76 LEG AND FOOT MASSAGE These notes are to be used as a guide to jog your memory after you have watched and learnt the foot and leg massage from the instructional video. Apply a sufficient amount of cream into palm of hand. Spread over foot and leg, up to knee. Using fingers and thumbs front and back of legs, work up and down from ankle to knee in small circular motion. Do some light slapping on the back of the calve. Use long strokes up and down the leg from ankle to knee. Large circles around ankles with fingers, and then small circular motion around ankle. Repeat 3-4 times. Placing thumbs under foot and using fingers on top, circular motion from ankle down to toes on top of foot then long stroke back to top of foot. Repeat 3-4 times. Starting with smallest and largest toes, pull down to tip and squeeze, then small circular motion back to top of toe. Repeat 2-3 times then move in to next two toes, repeat, then move into last toe. Supporting top of foot with spare hand, knuckle the bottom of the foot from top to bottom 3-4 times. Run thumb up from heel to toes starting on one side and moving across to the other side. Support foot at base of leg and using thumb and small circular motion massage the very end of the heel where you have removed the dry skin. Supporting top of foot push toes back gently. With thumbs underneath and fingers on top of foot perform "breaking bread" movement to relax muscles on top of foot. More circular strokes around ankles. Finish with light stroking up and down leg and foot.
77 MODULE SEVEN NAIL MENDING Natural nails can be mended in various ways. Each method requires the need to buff the nail surface to remove excess oil. Remember not to touch the nail surface with fingers once prepared with a buffer or you will put oil from your finger onto the nail and the product will lift. The easiest and most effective way to fix a crack in a natural nail is with a repair patch. You can buy repair kits commercially but really all you will need is some nail or super glue and fiberglass or tissue. REPAIR PATCH Use the following notes as a step by step guide after you have watched the video. Buff nail surface gently to remove excess oil. Glue the break together and buff off excess glue. Cut a small piece of repair patch. This can be a piece of fiberglass, silk or even a small piece of white or pink tissue. Apply a small amount of resin or glue over and just around the crack. Place cut out repair patch over glue. Cover patch with more glue. Depending on the size of the crack you may want to apply another coat of patch and glue. Let dry and buff smooth. Do not buff too much off the repair patch or it will not be strong enough to hold the crack. If the crack is more than half way across the natural nail you will probably need to remove the nail as there will be too much pressure for the repair patch to hold. Watch video in Module 7
78 SCRUBS, PEELS AND MASKS These treatments would not normally be part of a basic manicure or pedicure but treated as add on’s and charged for accordingly, usually around $10.00 per extra treatment. These are an excellent treatment for anyone with extremely dry, flaky skin, but will show improvement on any skin. Performed before the hand massage it is an excellent way to exfoliate to allow the massage cream to penetrate more deeply and have a better effect, or after the massage to help penetration the massage medium deeper into the skin for more hydration and softness. The benefits of a scrub, peel or mask on the feet or hands will greatly nourish nails, remove fake tan, stimulate blood circulation, exfoliate dead skin cells away, and most importantly relieve the stress or tension you have built up in your body, all you need to do is sit back and enjoy the calming music and natural sounds played around you while your feet soak happily in warm water with essential oils or bath salts to begin your manicure and /or pedicure treatment. Our hands as we all well know accumulate and are exposed to dust, dirt and grim and over time our feet and hands build up unwanted dead skin cells which need to be manually removed and treated through a manicure or a pedicure service. Toe and fingernails can be a great area for fungus and bacteria to grow. Scrubs Always done before the massage. This is usually a granually or pasty product often containing either glycolic acid or enzymes. Plastic microbeads are also quite common in scrubs and have been used for many years but are not really used as often now due to environmental hazards. Scrubs are rubbed over the hands or feet, concentrating especially on rough or dry skin. Spend a minute or two rubbing this in circular motions and then rinse with warm water making sure all trace of product is removed. You should see an instant improvement in the texture and colour of the skin. If performed in a pedicure this will now make removing excess skin with the foot paddle or pumice stone much easier. It will also help the nutrients from the massage medium penetrate a little further into the skin during the massage. Watch video on Module 7
79 Peels Always done before the massage. This product is brushed on similar to a treatment mask. It will usually contain some kind of glycolic or alpha hydroxy acid and when left on for up to 10 minutes will gently melt the top layers of skin away. Peels can contain fruit enzymes, glycolic acid, lactic acid, mandelic acid or salicylic acid. Rinse off with warm water making sure all trace of product is removed. You should see an instant improvement in the texture and colour of the skin. If performed in a pedicure this will now make removing excess skin, cracked skin or calluses with the foot paddle or pumice stone much easier. It will also help the nutrients from the massage medium penetrate a little further into the skin during the massage. Watch video on Module 7 MASKS There are many types of masks available, and depending on what the mask is treating they may be use before or after the massage, which will help remove impurities and create good circulation. You will need to assess the clients skin condition and treat it accordingly. A mask when used on the feet can help and eliminate unwanted foot odour while it smooths and exfoliates the dead skin cells away retaining the skins natural skins oils while it moisturiszes and hydrates deep through the various skin layers. There are some excellent marine, and dead sea masks available that when left on for 10 minutes and then rinsed off with warm water will immediately soften the skin making removal of dead skin with the foot paddle or pumice stone much easier. Masks you would use before the massage and also before the foot paddle would be anything that is used to exfoliate, so anything with glycolic, AHA or enzymes to loosen the dead/dry skin to make it easier to remove with the foot paddle. If using something that is designed you nourish and soften you would normally used this after the massage, straight over the massage medium. If you are using a good treatment cream for your massage a thermal mask would be excellent to help the nutrients from the cream penetrate a little deeper into the skin, also a nourishing mask will further help soften and hydrate the skin. Watch video on Module 7
80 PARAFFIN WAX Paraffin Wax is an excellent hand or foot treatment. You must however be careful that the temperature is not too hot. Paraffin is a form of heat therapy that can help increase blood flow. It helps relax muscles and decreases joint stiffness. It can help minimize muscle spasms and inflammation as well as treat sprains. It is excellent for conditions such as arthritis and fibromyalgia (general stiffness and pain in the muscles in different areas of the body) It gives instant skin hydration, softness and tightness which lasts for days. This wax is applied after the massage. It is more beneficial if a scrub or peel has been used earlier in the treatment. Massage should be performed with a treatment cream and paraffin applied straight over the top of the treatment cream or oils. The paraffin wax also contains a blend of essential oils and these penetrate into the skin giving instant results. To apply, make sure the client has a good coverage of lotion on her hands. Ask her to keep her finger very still after dipping or she will break the seal between the paraffin an the skin. Dip 3 times. So dip once, pull the hand out and shake off excess then repeat twice more. After coating or dipping area into paraffin wax, wrap with glad wrap and towels and leave for 10 minutes, ask the client not to move her hands or feet so as not to break the bond with the skin. After 10-15 minutes, get your client to move her hand or foot slightly and the wax will break away and slide off in one easy movement. Do not wash the area again. Your client will love the feel of the skin. If using paraffin wax as part of a pedicure don't forget to powder the bottom of the feet afterwards so as they are not slippery. Make sure you remove all traces of paraffin from the nail plate with block buffer before applying nail polish, and also wipe over the nail plate with dehydrator to prepare it further. Watch video on Module 7
81 MODULE EIGHT UV Gel Polish There is a huge difference in quality between the very cheap and the very expensive, but not between the moderately priced and the very expensive. As with the lamps you can pay far too much for a brand name product that is only going to do the same job as a less expensive brand, and in my experience, quite often doesn’t do the job as well as the less expensive brands. You need to stay away from the very cheap brands, anything around the $5 to $10 range will normally be very thick and smelly, they tend to peel off very easily and have some of them have some very harsh ingredients such as Formaldehyde, Toluene and Dibutyl Phthalate (DBP) which any professional brand will not contain. Normally $20 to $25 and above you will get a good product, and if it is being sold by a wholesaler it will be professional quality. So anywhere between $20 and around $25 will all do a good job. Over $25 you are wasting your money, as mentioned above, they will normally not do the job any better and in a lot of cases are not as good as the less expensive brands. You are paying for the brand name, not the quality of the product. I suggest you only get a small range to start with. Try a couple of different brands and see which one you like best. There is also nothing wrong with stocking a few brands. Normally the base and top coats will all work together, I have had occasion where they didn’t, but this would be very rare.
82 GEL SOAK OFF POLISH Gel soak off polish can come in UV or LED cured formulas. More commonly known as Shellac, due to the fact that CND released the first form of gel polish and called it Shellac. Just so you are aware, Shellac is just one of hundreds of brands of gel polish. It is important that you recognise that this product is NOT normal nail enamel. The nails need special preparation before application and it cannot be removed with normal nail polish remover. It needs to be soaked off properly with acetone and not really something you want your clients doing at home unless they know what they are doing. It is important that you educate yourself and your client in exactly what is being applied to their nails. Your client needs to understand that they cannot take this product off at home and change the colour herself. It cannot be removed with normal nail polish remover. It has to be soaked off in an acetone based product and any residue scrapped or buffed carefully from the nail plate. If you are not extremely careful you risk damaging the natural nail plate. Gel polish, no matter what brand, will NOT strengthen the natural nail. While it is on it will protect the nail and it does have more flexibility than nail enhancement products such as acrylic, dip system or builder gel, so will flex and move more with the natural nail, thus normally not cracking, breaking or peeling from the nail. But if your client decides to discontinue use, you will have to ensure that they use a good professional quality nail hardener to continue to protect their nails and also restrengthen them. Gel polish is a soft gel. This is a totally different product to the hard Gel that is used in nail enhancements and is applied in a totally different manner. Hard Gel is used to build an artificial nail and/or extend the nail, and designed to be left on and refilled as the nail grows. Gel polish, or soft gel is designed to be painted over the natural nail like nail polish and totally removed and reapplied every 2-3 weeks as the nail grows out. Although some gel polishes are now promoting refills, rather than completely removing and reapplying. This would depend largely on how the gel polish has grown out and whether or not it is lifting from the nail or chipping. When applied and removed properly there will be minimal damage to the natural nail, however as with any coating the longer the client wears it the more likely it will be that her nails may need some recovery time to get back to the condition they were in before the product was first applied.
83 All of that said, this is probably the best alternative to artificial nails that has come on to the market yet. It is much lighter than an artificial coating and lasts and wears much better than normal nail polish. Gel polishes can last on natural nails up to 4 weeks, however it does of course grow out with the nail, so depending on how quickly your client’s nails grow, most people will need the product removed and re-applied every 2 ½ to 3 weeks some even fortnightly. The longer it is left, the further down the nail it will be as the nail grows out. You will see nails that have grown out in the video content. There are several different techniques for applying and removing the product. Technicians prepare the nails in a few different ways. The preparation of the natural nail is crucial to how the product will bond and last, and this is well covered in the video content. It is important that you have manicure knowledge before attempting this module. If you are doing the Beauty Courses Online Manicure/Pedicure course, please complete the manicure section before moving on to the gel polish module. If the product is applied and removed incorrectly, substantial damage can be done to the natural nail. So it is very important that you take care when working with this product.
84 GEL POLISH PRODUCTS & EQUIPMENT You will most likely have some of the products from your manicure/pedicure services. Files and buffers, cuticle remover/conditioner and cuticle oil, all mentioned in the main products and equipment in this manual as well as: CURING LAMP UV, LED or UV/LED lamp to cure the product, more explanation on lamps below GEL POLISH You will need a base and top coat and a range of colours, don’t get too many colours to start with, you may want to try a few brands before you decide on the one you like, and there is no issue with using more than one brand as long as you have the corresponding base and top coat for each range.
85 GEL CLEANSER / GEL WIPE This is an alcohol based solution that will remove the inhibition layer (tacky layer) if you are using a top coat that cures with the inhibition layer CUTICLE PUSHER Metal / spoon cuticle pusher to prepare the cuticles and remove the gel polish from the nails after soaking FOR REMOVAL Cotton wool and foil or gel polish removal pads
86 OR GLASS SOAK OFF BOWL GEL REMOVER SOLUTION OR ACETONE Please ensure you get beauty grade acetone for this, do not go to the hardware store and get commercial grade acetone as it will burn your clients nails and skin.
87 IMPORTANT INFORMATION ABOUT LAMPS You do not need to spend a fortune on a lamp. The only different between the expensive lamps and the less expensive lamps is the brand name on them, and some many have slightly more bulky cases. It is the UV and LED lights that do the curing and they are EXACTLY THE SAME in all lamps. There are three kinds of lamps you can get. UV – This is straight UV bulbs that will cure both UV and LED cured gels but will take a longer time. LED – Straight LED lights, these are quicker but will ONLY CURE LED cured gels. UV/LED – This kind of lamp is the one we would recommend getting. These lamps are as quick as LED lamps but have a mix of UV and LED bulbs so will cure any gel on the market. DO NOT BE FOOLED BY SOME OF THE MORE EXPENSIVE GEL BRANDS THAT WILL TELL YOU THEIR GEL WILL ONLY CURE IN THEIR LAMP. This is absolute rubbish, and you are looking at the difference in price of around $60 to $100 for a less expensive lamp that will do the same job as $400 to $600 being charged by some of the bigger brands. I CANNOT STRESS ENOUGH, THEY ARE ALL THE SAME.
88 SAFETY AND YOUR LAMP There has been some concern about using UV lamps to cure the gel, saying it can lead to premature wrinkles, age spots and even skin cancer, however the FDA views nail curing lamps are low risk when used as they should be, as it is such a small amount of exposure. People are also under the impression that LED lamps are safer to use than UV lamps which is not true. BOTH lamps emit ultraviolet radiation, predominantly in the form of UVA, however as mentioned above for very short periods of time every 2 to 3 weeks is not likely to increase the risk of skin cancer significantly but you need to be aware that it may on some people. The only benefit LED lamps over UV lamps is that they cure quicker, but there is also a drawback that they do not cure all gels. So the combination UV/LED lamps are a much better choice. So what can you do to eliminate your client’s concerns. You can use sunscreen before you put the hands in the lamp or you can get specially designed UV protective gloves from most beauty wholesalers. These are white cotton gloves with the tops of the fingers cut out, so the only part of the hand that is being exposed to the UV is the finger tip. If you are using these gloves, and it is a good idea to use them, you will need to get your clients to purchase them from you and then bring them every time they have a service. You cannot use one pair of gloves on multiple people. Anyone with any concern about the exposure will be more than happy to purchase them.
89 CURING THE GEL POLISH The curing times for the builder gels will vary depending on both the brand that you are using and the lamp that you are using, so it is important that you follow the manufacturer’s instructions carefully. The top coat on some brands will cure with an inhibition layer (tacky finish) that needs to be removed with a gel cleanser and others will cure dry and will not need the gel cleanser. As well as curing correctly you can both under cure or over cure. If you have left the hand in the lamp for the required amount of time and you find the product is still not curing, it is most likely that your lamp is getting old and needs to be replaced. If you are using a UV lamp you can replace the bulbs. You will find when you put new bulbs in your curing time can be cut down slightly for the first few hours of use. It is much more difficult to replace the bulbs in an LED or UV/LED lamp, it normally required completely dismantling the lamp, and often they don’t go back together easily. As most LED lamps are good for 50,000 hours, you are best just getting a new one, you would have done in excess of 8,000 sets of nails. UNDERCURING You will know if you have under cured the product if when you bring the clients hand out from the lamp and wipe the tacky surface from the nail the product will still feel sticky or like wet nail polish. If this happens you will need to put the hand back into the lamp for another minute or so to cure it properly. OVERCURING If you over cure, this is normally because you have left the hand in the lamp for too long, you will find the product will buckle or crack. This will leave you with a nail that does not have a nice smooth finish. This can also happen if you apply your product too thickly. If this happens, you really need to remove the product and re-apply.
90 VARIATION ON CURING TIMES This has been mentioned above, it will depend on the product and lamp you are using but the following are some guidelines that should work for most products and lamps. UV Gel polish will normally cure in 2 minutes under a UV lamp, for each of the base and colour coats, for the top coat it is a good idea to give it 3 minute. If you are using an LED cured Gel polish in an LED lamp, your curing time is normally 30 to 60 seconds per coat for the base and colour coats, and 60 to 90 seconds for the top coat. LED cured Gel polish will also cure in a UV lamp but you will need to leave it in for 2 minutes per coat for base and colour coats and 3 minutes for top coat. UV cured Gel polish WILL NOT cure in an LED lamp no matter how long you leave it in. UV AND LED gels will both cure in a UV/LED lamp. Base and colour coats 60 seconds each, top coat 90 seconds. You may need to play around with these times a little but it would only be around 10 seconds difference between products and lamps.
91 MODULE NINE GEL POLISH APPLICATION It is very important that you apply the gel polish in the proper manner, both so it stays on as required and also, so as not to cause any damage to the natural nail plate. Under normal circumstances you would apply the Gel polish with a dry manicure. This means you would not be soaking hands in any water and using very few products on the nail that are going to create a moist nail plate. If you have a client whose cuticles need a lot of work, ideally you would get them to come the day before and have a manicure and address the cuticles then, and have them return the following day for the gel polish application when the nails are completely dry. If you have a client who cannot come two days in a row, you can perform a normal manicure first, but you need to make sure the nails are completely dry, re prepped and dehydrated before applying the gel polish. If you get lifting of the product around the cuticle end after doing a manicure, this would be the most obvious cause. To apply your gel polish. Follow normal sanitary procedures, have your client wash her hands, and wash your hands and both disinfect. Treat client and technicians hands with antibacterial spray or gel. File and shape natural nail. Treat cuticles (if necessary with cuticle conditioner/remover) or remove loose cuticle or pterygium with spoon cuticle remover and cuticle clipper. (If using cuticle conditioner/remover it is essential that you remove all product with Nail polish remover or alcohol. Lightly rub over the natural nail with a block buffer to remover the shine and any grime from the nail plate. Some brands will say you do not need to do this step, but I find that it will help the product adhere better to the nail. If you skip this step and your product is not sticking to the nail, this would be the most obvious reason. Wipe over nails with alcohol wipe or lint free wipe soaked with alcohol based product to remove dust and to sterilize and dehydrate the nail plate. You will need to either use a new wipe for each nail, or one side of a wipe for two nails. Do not use the same wipe for all nails or you will just be transferring the dust from one nail to the other.
92 Wait for the nails to come up chalky white and dry before moving on to the next step, if they still have moisture in them when you apply the base coat, you are in danger of getting it trapped under the product and causing lifting or even worse, infection. It will also interfere with the bonding process. At this point some systems will advise you use a primer before applying the base coat. I would suggest trying your product without the primer first as this is quite damaging on the natural nail and the less chemicals you put on the nails the better. If you are applying primer, dab only around the edges and be careful not to touch skin. Apply base coat to nails on first hand, this needs to be applied as thinly as possible and is not to come into contact with the skin. If you do spill some on the cuticle, it needs to be removed with gel wipe before the product is cured. If you leave it on the skin, it will eventually loosen and break the bond and cause the product to lift. Don’t forget to seal your free edge. Place the hand in the lamp and cure for recommended time as above. While the first hand is in the lamp you can start doing the above steps on the second hand. When the base coat on the first hand is cured, bring it out and apply the first coat of colour (or if applying French polish, apply the while tip). Don’t forget to seal your free edge. Place the hand back in the lamp to cure for required time and continue preparing the second hand. When the first colour coat is cured bring the hand out of the lamp and apply the second coat of colour (or if applying French polish the clear pink coat). Don’t forget to seal your free edge. Place the hand back in the lamp to cure and continue preparing the second hand. Once the second colour coat is cured bring the hand out of the lamp and apply the top coat. Don’t forget to seal the free edge. Place the hand back in the lamp to cure and continue preparing the second hand. Once the top coat is cured remove first hand from the lamp. If it is a top non tacky cure top cost you can now apply cuticle oil. If it is a top coat that cures with an inhibition layer (tacky finish) you will need to wipe over the nails with gel cleanser to remove it. Use a clean wipe for each nail, or one wipe for two nails by turning it over for the second finger. If you use the same wipe for all fingers you will just be transferring the inhibition layer (tacky finish) from one nail to the next .
93 You are now ready to apply the base coat to the second hand and move through the above steps until both hands are completed. It is much quicker if you can work with two lamps, one for each hand as it usually doesn’t take very long to prepare the second hand and it saves you waiting for all coats to cure on the first hand. Watch video in module 9 IMPORTANT NOTE The base and colour coats of the gel polish will have an inhibition layer, you should not touch them between coats, and you DO NOT remove the inhibition layer on those coats. You only remove the inhibition layer from the TOP COAT if it has one.
94 MODULE TEN GEL POLISH REMOVAL It is very important that you remove the gel polish in the correct manner so as not to damage the natural nail. You can just soak your client’s hand in a manicure or soak off bowl with an acetone based remover, or use the cotton wool and foil method which I show you in the video. You can also get specific removal pads which are foil with a built in lint free square, or various re-useable finger peg type remover. To begin follow normal sanitary procedures and have your client wash her hands and the technician wash her hands and both disinfect. Spray client and technician hands with antibacterial spray or wipe. It is a good idea for the technician to wear disposable gloves to protect the skin. Use course file to rough up the top of the product and break the seal. Apply Vaseline with cotton bud around cuticle area to protect the skin and cuticle from acetone. Drench cotton ball (half) with acetone or soak off solution and place over nail. Wrap in pre-cut foil or peg. Leave for around 10-12 minutes to soften gel polish, some will soften sooner, some will take a little longer. Before you remove the foil, rub over the nail plate to loosen the product from the nail. Remove foil and cotton wool. Most of your product should come off with the cotton wool. Remove any excess carefully with spoon cuticle pusher or lightly buff off with block buffer. If your product is not coming off easily you may need to re-apply the cotton wool and foil for a few extra minutes. Once all trace of gel polish is removed from the nail you are ready to start the application process again. Watch Video in Module 10 Copyright © 2021 Beauty Courses Online Version 2.1 All Rights Reserved http://www.beautycoursesonline.com
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