first_cockatiel

Your First Cockatiel – A Guide To Getting Started

Your First Cockatiel

A Guide To Getting Started

by
Rebecca Zappa

Zappa Aviaries

© Copyright 2015 Zappa Aviaries. All Rights Reserved.

Your First Cockatiel – A Guide To Getting Started

Contents

INTRODUCTION.............................................................................. Page 3
ABOUT COCKATIELS...................................................................... Page 4
CHOOSING THE RIGHT COCKATIEL.............................................. Page 5
CAGE REQUIREMENTS................................................................... Page 8
RECOMMENDED ACCESSORIES..................................................... Page 10
LIGHTING REQUIREMENTS........................................................... Page 13
NUTRITIONAL REQUIREMENTS.................................................... Page 15
HOUSEHOLD HAZARDS................................................................. Page 18
FIRST-AID....................................................................................... Page 26
HEALTHY RECIPES FOR YOUR BIRD............................................. Page 31
AFTERWARD.................................................................................. Page 34
RESOURCES................................................................................... Page 35

© Copyright 2015 Zappa Aviaries. All Rights Reserved.

Your First Cockatiel – A Guide To Getting Started

Introduction

It has been many years since my very first Cockatiel came into my life but I
remember it like it was yesterday. My first was a male that I very affectionately
named Splat. An odd name I know, but there is a story behind it.
Splat was very young when I got him and was not the most coordinated flyer.
Before he learned to properly maneuver he flew into the wall a few times. After
that the name Splat just seemed to stick. LOL!
Back then I didn't have any friends or family with any knowledge of Cockatiels. In
fact, there wasn't really alot of information available anywhere back then. I had to
learn by trial and error.
Over the years I have learned so much new and fascinating information on these
beautiful and affectionate birds. By writing this book I hope to offer the
information and advice to new Cockatiel owners that was not available to me.
I know as you spend more time with your Cockatiel you will gain insight into his
or her unique personality. You'll undoubtedly gain knowledge far beyond the
information contained in this book.
For now let's get started by taking a look at some background on the Cockatiel.

© Copyright 2015 Zappa Aviaries. All Rights Reserved.

Your First Cockatiel – A Guide To Getting Started

About Cockatiels

I have found that the more you know about the life and habits of Cockatiels in their
native habitat, the better prepared you will be to care for your pet. That is why I
felt it important to include the following information.
Cockatiels are native to Australia where they are often considered pests by farmers.
I personally feel this is a very unfair label for these beautiful and affectionate birds.
As with all creatures in the wild, Cockatiels must eat to survive and care for their
young. This naturally puts them at odds with the farmers. Much the same as the
Crows in this country.
Cockatiels in the wild live in large flocks sometimes numbering in the hundreds.
These flocks will often migrate to new locations in search of food and available
nesting locations.
In the wild a Cockatiel enjoys a widely varied diet which includes insects, grubs
and seeds, as well as the leaves and bark of native plants. It is not unusual to see
large numbers of Cockatiels foraging on the ground for food in the wild.
The normal breeding season for Cockatiels is August through December but
breeding can, and often does, occur at anytime throughout the year. This is true of
both wild and captive birds.
Cockatiels in the wild will seek out hollow tree limbs to use as nesting sites. These
nesting locations are almost always near a convenient source of water.
A female Cockatiel will typically lay 4 to 7 eggs in a clutch at a rate of 1 egg every
2 days. The adults will normally begin incubating the eggs after the second or third
has been laid. Both the male and female Cockatiel share in the incubating duties.

© Copyright 2015 Zappa Aviaries. All Rights Reserved.

Your First Cockatiel – A Guide To Getting Started

The eggs will begin hatching 18 to 21 days after the incubation process begins. As
with the task of incubating the eggs, both the male and female share in the feeding
of the young.
By the time the chicks are 7 to 8 weeks old they are fully weaned and eating on
their own. At about 6 months they molt into their adult feathers, and reach sexual
maturity at 12 to 18 months.
Cockatiels are the smallest members of the Cockatoo family. Adults weigh on
average from 88 to 178 grams and measure 12 to 14 inches long, including the tail.
Their gentle and affectionate personalities have made them one of the most popular
pet birds in the world. In 1894 Australia banned the export of all native birds. This
means that today all Cockatiels throughout the United States are bred in captivity.
The crest of the Cockatiel displays emotions similar to that of a persons facial
expression. For example, when the crest is straight up and rigid, it is often a sign of
fear or distress.
The more time you spend with your new feathered friend, the more you'll learn to
understand its many expressions.
Cockatiels are often just as loving to their owners as the most loyal dog. With an
average lifespan of 16 to 25 years a Cockatiel becomes a long term and much
loved family member. This makes it very important that you choose the bird that's
right for you.

© Copyright 2015 Zappa Aviaries. All Rights Reserved.

Your First Cockatiel – A Guide To Getting Started

Choosing The Right Cockatiel

Cockatiels are beautiful birds that are available in a variety of colorful mutations.

These mutations include;

• Normal Grey
• Cinnamon
• Pearl
• Lutino
• Pied
• Silver
• Fallow
• White Face, and many more.

Over the years many first time bird owners have come to our aviary to purchase
their first Cockatiel. In most every case they choose their new bird based solely on
color and markings. This would be just fine if they were choosing a Finch, but not
for a Cockatiel.

Cockatiels are very social and require daily interaction with their owners. The
color mutation and markings have absolutely no bearing on whether or not it will
be a great companion for a particular owner, or situation.

Choosing the right Cockatiel for you requires thought and careful consideration of
some additional factors.

Male or Female?

Male Cockatiels tend to be louder than the females. One factor that attracts many
people to males is the ability to talk. Although it is true that Males do sometimes
talk, many never do. In fact it is much more common for them to mimic an often

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Your First Cockatiel – A Guide To Getting Started

heard tune than to form words.

Even males that don't talk or whistle a tune are quite vocal. If you live in an
apartment with thin walls, will the neighbors complain when your new bird begins
to loudly announce his presence?

Female Cockatiels are much quieter than the males. They normally do not talk or
mimic a tune. They rarely scream or make loud flock calls, which can be beneficial
if you live in an apartment.

There are also some health factors to take into account when considering a female
Cockatiel.

Even without the presence of a male bird your female Cockatiel can, and probably
will, lay eggs occasionally. As with all birds that lay eggs there is the possibility of
egg-binding. This is a serious and potentially fatal condition requiring veterinary
care immediately. I'll discuss egg-binding more in the proper nutrition section of
this book.

How Much Time Will You Be Able To Spend With Your Cockatiel?

Your new Cockatiel will require a fair amount of your time each day. A huge factor
in the health and happiness of Cockatiels is socializing. This social interaction can
be provided either by you or another bird, but it is extremely important.

A Cockatiel left in a cage by itself, with little or no social interaction, can become
depressed. If your schedule leaves you little time for interaction with your new
Cockatiel, a second bird should be considered.

These are very important factors to consider when choosing a Cockatiel, yet to
many people they seem very insignificant.

When you consider you are purchasing a pet that will live 20+ years, you begin to
realize how important these seemingly insignificant factors can be.

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Your First Cockatiel – A Guide To Getting Started

Cage Requirements

Your new Cockatiel will need to have a properly sized cage. Chances are that he or
she will spend the majority of their time in the cage. It is in fact their home and you
wouldn't want to live your entire life in a 2' x 2' room, would you?
When choosing a cage for your new Cockatiel don't let yourself be fooled by pretty
and elaborate cages. Just because a cage looks pretty and has lots of ornamental
decorations, does not mean it is the best choice for your bird.

Key factors to look for when choosing a cage are...
• Choose a "Parrot" cage, with heavy bars.
• Ensure that at least 2 sides have horizontal bars your Cockatiel can easily
use for climbing.
• Bar spacing should be no more than 5/8".
• Choose a cage with a powder coated finish to protect against heavy metal
poisoning.
• The cage should have a large main door for easy access to your bird.
• Several smaller access doors are helpful for hanging feeders, toys, etc..
• The recommended minimum size for 1-2 Cockatiels is 30" x 20" x 53"

The very best rule of thumb when purchasing a cage is to buy the largest you can
afford and have the space for.
Your Cockatiel should have room to flap its wings inside the cage. All without
touching either the toys, accessories, perches or cage sides. Keep in mind that
Cockatiels need a variety of toys to keep them entertained when in the cage.

© Copyright 2015 Zappa Aviaries. All Rights Reserved.

Your First Cockatiel – A Guide To Getting Started

Many new Cockatiel owners will purchase a used cage to save money. The
problem with this is that it may end up costing you more in the long run.

1) A used cage must be very thoroughly disinfected to ensure there is no
bacteria from previous birds.

2) You must inspect used cages very carefully for any damage to the bars.

If the powder coating is chipped rust could develop. Rust and exposed metal could
potentially lead to heavy metal poisoning if chewed by your Cockatiel.

I have purchased used cages myself, often ending up trashing them after a very
thorough inspection. I never even consider a used cage now.

Once I started doing the math, it just didn't add up, so I sat down and listed the pros
and cons.

Used Cage Pros Used Cage Cons

1. Saves a few dollars 1. May harbor bacteria
2. Possible exposed rust
3. Possible death or injury to bird
4. I worried about the well being

of my birds constantly

As you can see the cons far outweigh the pros when it comes to buying a used
cage. It's the same with bird toys but used toys are even more dangerous than
cages.

The majority of bird toys are made from materials that can easily harbor bacteria,
mold, etc.. Even with thorough cleaning there is no guarantee they are 100% free
of them. NEVER PURCHASE BIRD TOYS THAT HAVE BEEN USED!

The peace of mind you'll have by knowing you provided your bird with a safe
and comfortable home, is well worth the cost.

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Your First Cockatiel – A Guide To Getting Started

Recommended Accessories

As stated previously, your Cockatiel needs toys and other items to stimulate and
entertain him or her, when in the cage. In this section I will give you my
recommendations. These are based on both my experience over the years, and lots
of product research. Hopefully this information will make selecting safe toys and
accessories for your Cockatiel easier.

Cuttlebone Holder
I always include a good quality Cuttlebone Holder in any
birds cage. This Cuttlebone Holder has a strong clip to keep
any size Cuttlebone in place and is easy to hang inside the
cage.
Another benefit to this one is it can also be used for millet and
fresh fruits/vegetables. They are readily available at many pet
retailers both on and off line, including Zappa Aviaries.

Cuttlebone
Cuttlebone is an excellent source of calcium for birds. I
always ensure there is one available in every cage.

6oz Seed/Water Cup
These are the cups I prefer for water as well as seed and
treats, depending on how messy the bird is. Some birds like to
play and toss food about and some don't. For those that do I
prefer the Tidy Seed Feeders below.

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Your First Cockatiel – A Guide To Getting Started

Tidy Seed Feeder
This is an excellent feeder choice for Cockatiels that love to
play with their food. If they toss the seed around, most of it will
remain in the cage if you use this feeder.

Water Bottle
Bird Water Bottles eliminate sanitation problems caused by
droppings in the water cup. They do require a bit of time and effort
to teach your bird to use them.

Manzanita Perches
Manzanita is a very hard wood that will stand up
to a Cockatiels chewing. Since it is a natural
branch it is excellent for your birds feet. They are
available in many shapes and sizes to fit your needs.

Comfy Perch
This is another excellent perch that we use in all of our Cockatiel
cages. They are very comfortable for the birds feet and the rope
material helps to satisfy the Cockatiels need to chew. These are
available in different diameters based on bird size or preference.

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Your First Cockatiel – A Guide To Getting Started

Bird Kabob
These are the very best item I have found to satisfy my
Cockatiels need to chew. They are 100% natural and last a
surprisingly long time.

Toys
There are countless numbers of great toys available to
entertain your Cockatiel. Be sure to do a little research
before purchasing a particular toy. Be sure to check that the
toy is made with bird safe materials and read reviews
online.
Keep a variety of toys in the cage but be sure to not crowd the cage. Remember
your bird should be able to flap its wings without hitting anything. It is a good idea
to purchase at least twice as many toys as you'll have in the cage at one time. This
way you can swap out toys every couple weeks.
Your Cockatiel will get bored with the same toys after awhile.

These items are all readily available both online and off. I am sure you will also
come across other accessories you'll want to add to your birds cage. But by
providing at least the items I have mentioned here, your Cockatiel will be very
happy with his or her new home.

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Your First Cockatiel – A Guide To Getting Started

Lighting Requirements

Light is a very important factor in the health and happiness of your Cockatiel.
Providing your bird with proper lighting is essential to both its physical and mental
health. Proper lighting may be provided by either natural sunlight or artificially
with Full Spectrum Lighting.
Which light is best?
Natural sunlight is best but is not always possible. If you are in a warm climate
and can keep your bird outside during the day, in a cage or other enclosure, it's a
great choice.
For those who need to keep their bird inside most of the time, full spectrum
lighting is your only alternative.
These full spectrum lights replicate sunlight and provide all the benefits of natural
sunlight. When choosing an appropriate full spectrum bulb for light, be sure it
emits both UVB + UVA rays.
UVB is essential to aid in the production of vitamin D which is required for the
proper absorption of calcium in birds. UVA is required for proper vision. Without
UVA your bird is essentially color blind.
Proper Placement
Hang or otherwise mount the lighting fixture 12 - 18 inches above the cage. By

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Your First Cockatiel – A Guide To Getting Started

placing the light above the cage, as opposed to at the side, it will more closely
replicate how the sun shines down on the bird.
How much light is enough?
10 hours of full spectrum light per day is sufficient for your Cockatiel. For
breeding birds this should be increased to about 16 hours.
An important thing to remember is that birds require more sleep than we do. Under
normal non breeding conditions your Cockatiel will require at least 10 hours of
darkness per day. Without the proper amount of sleep time your bird can become
stressed and suffer from a weakened immune system.

The possible effects of insufficient light include;
• Low calcium levels which can cause serious health problems.
• Dull colors and poor plumage.
• Feather plucking, screaming and other behavior problems.
• Egg Binding in breeding females. (caused by low calcium levels)
• Insufficient light will often keep birds from breeding.

The possible effects of insufficient sleep include;
• Stress, which can lead to behavior problems like feather picking, biting and
screaming.
• A weakened immune system which can lead to an inability to fight off
disease.

As you can see, providing the proper lighting in the right amounts is an essential
factor in the health of your Cockatiel.

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Your First Cockatiel – A Guide To Getting Started

Nutritional Requirements

The most important factor to consider when feeding your Cockatiel is variety.
Although many Cockatiel owners feed their birds a seed only diet, it is not
sufficient for them to thrive. Many pet Cockatiels can live to be 25 years old with
the proper care and a nutritionally complete diet. A seed only diet will not meet all
of the nutritional requirements of your Cockatiel.

In my experience the best diet for Cockatiels consist of the following....

• Zupreem Pellets (all of mine prefer the fruit pellets in the Parakeet size)
• Any brand of high quality Cockatiel seed blend
• Vegetables
• Fruits
• Eggs
• Cooked Lean Meat (in small amounts)
• Plain Yogurt (again in small amounts)

Many people will tell you to not feed your Cockatiel a seed mix that includes
Sunflower Seeds because of high fat content. I completely disagree with that
notion. Sunflower Seeds do contain a large amount of fat but also a number of
healthy nutrients. I do recommend that you keep the percentage of Sunflower
Seeds low, but do not eliminate them from your birds diet completely.

Vegetables
Your Cockatiel should receive fresh vegetables at least a few times per week.
Below is a list of the vegetables I offer to my Cockatiels. You should try them all to
see which ones your bird likes or dislikes. Every Cockatiel has it's own preferences
and will let you know which vegetables it prefers.

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Your First Cockatiel – A Guide To Getting Started

• Sprouts
• Spinach
• Turnip Greens
• Green Peppers
• Jalapeno
• Swiss Chard
• Mustard Greens
• Broccoli
• Beet Greens
• Bok Choy
• Grated Carrots
• Collard Greens
• Kale
• Cilantro
• Cooked Yams
• Cooked Pumpkin

Fruit
You should also provide your Cockatiel with fresh fruit a couple times per week.
Most Cockatiels are not big fruit eaters but will often eat some. You will have to
try a few different ones to determine which they will or will not eat.

The list below contains the fresh fruits that I give my Cockatiels.

• Cantaloupe
• Apricots
• Nectarines
• Papayas
• Peaches
• Apples
• Bananas
• Grapes
• Oranges

Important! When giving fruit to your Cockatiel make sure not to give them

any fruit seeds as most are very poisonous to birds.

© Copyright 2015 Zappa Aviaries. All Rights Reserved.

Your First Cockatiel – A Guide To Getting Started

Meat
It may seem strange to give your Cockatiel meats but it is an excellent source of
protein for your bird. Feed only small amounts of ground, lean and well cooked,
Chicken, Turkey, Beef or Fish.

Other Great Sources of Protein Include...

• Hard Boiled Egg (well chopped in food processor, shell and all. Shell is an
excellent calcium source)

• Plain Yogurt (an excellent source of calcium + protein)
• Peanut Butter

TIP: Low sugar Cheerios make an excellent treat for your Cockatiel.

Your Cockatiel is not going to eat every kind of fruit and vegetable listed on this
page. That's okay, experiment and find which ones they will. I have a large number
of Cockatiels so what one doesn't like another does. I mix up a few items from
each list above a few times per week. I add a different variety of them each time so
they not only get variety, but they don't get bored with any particular one.

A note on Water and Cuttlebone
Always ensure your Cockatiel has fresh clean water. I always use Aviclens in bird
water. It keeps the water sparkling clean and prevents bacteria. It is available at a
number of stores online.

You should always keep a cuttlebone in the cage for your bird. It is an excellent
source of calcium and will help to prevent problems such as egg binding in
females. Egg binding is caused in most cases by low calcium levels in female
birds. With egg binding the egg is too soft for the hen to pass, from a lack of
calcium. That is a very brief explanation but you get the idea. By providing a
cuttlebone and nutritionally balanced diet, I have never had a female Cockatiel
become egg bound.

Hopefully this information will get you off to a good start to providing your bird a
healthy and nutritious diet.

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Your First Cockatiel – A Guide To Getting Started

Household Hazards

This section contains valuable information for any new bird owner. This
information pertains to ALL birds, not just Cockatiels.

I have learned about these hazards through hours of research and actual
experiences. Please familiarize yourself with this information and keep your
beloved birds safe.

Kitchen Hazards

There are many hazards for birds in the kitchen. Some you may know about
already, but some you may not be aware of.

Teflon
Most bird owners today know of the hazard Teflon coated non-stick cookware
presents. What you may not be aware of are the other items containing dangerous
Teflon.

All Teflon coated cookware emits highly toxic fumes when overheated. These
fumes can kill a bird in a matter of seconds. Below is a list of other commonly
used products that can often contain Teflon. Always research the specific items and
brands you use in your home to ensure they do not contain Teflon coating.

• Hot Air Popcorn Poppers
• Bread Machines
• Some Oven Cooking Bags
• Waffle Irons
• Pizza Cookers/Ovens
• Electric Skillets

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Your First Cockatiel – A Guide To Getting Started

• Woks
• Burner Drip Pans
• Oven Liners
• Curling Irons
• Space Heaters
• Clothing Irons

As you can see there are many common items that may contain Teflon. If any of
these products are in use in your home, move the birds outside or as far away from
the room as possible. Also be sure there is good ventilation.

Rather than moving the birds, I have chosen to err on the side of caution and use
nothing containing Teflon. Years ago I replaced all of my cookware with stainless
steel, and recently with ceramic coated. The ceramic coated non-stick cookware is
also 100% safe.

Stove Tops
There are many hazards associated with stoves. I have heard countless stories of
birds injured or killed because they were allowed out while the owners were
cooking. The very sad truth is that all of these injuries and deaths are 100%
avoidable. Many bird owners just convince themselves that it can't happen to them.

Birds can easily fall or fly onto a hot burner, or into a hot pan. This can happen in
a split second and result in terribly painful burns at the very least.

Kitchen Sinks
When doing dishes our bird could easily fall or fly into the dish water. If we are
right there the result will probably only be a soggy bird. However many of us have
filled the sink with dish water and gone to another room while the dishes soaked.
In this case an accidental fall or landing in the sink could be fatal.

A bird that is water drenched cannot fly and cannot make it out of a slippery sink.
This can, and has many times, resulted in the bird drowning. The danger increases
10 fold if you have sharp knives or other items soaking in the sink.

Refrigerator
Yes, as strange as it may sound, the refrigerator can also present a hazard. You are
probably thinking, "What danger could the refrigerator possibly hold for my bird"?

Although it is unlikely, your bird could inadvertently get shut in your refrigerator.

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Your First Cockatiel – A Guide To Getting Started

It has happened and even to me many years ago. My son was about 14 at the time
and had one of the Cockatiels out of the cage. He wasn't paying as close of
attention as he should of. Apparently he had gone into the fridge for something and
didn't see the bird hop in.

Fortunately I walked into the room a few minutes later. I asked my son where the
bird was and he had no idea. I don't know what made me look in the refrigerator
but when I did, there was the bird sitting on a shelf. Had I not come into the room
we would of had a tragedy.

Chemicals Under The Kitchen Sink
Like many of us you probably store cleaners and chemicals under the kitchen
sink. In the containers these are generally safe but I mention them so you'll
consider what products you use. Most of these type of products are toxic and can
make people sick if swallowed or inhaled, but the fumes can be fatal to birds.

There are many safe alternatives available for 99% of the cleaning products you
normally use. I suggest going through the products you currently use and searching
for safe alternatives. Many can be found simply by searching the internet.

Living Room Hazards

Many bird owners think their living room is a 100% safe place for their bird, but
there are hazards that we tend to not think of.

Couch Throw Pillows
Cockatiels and other birds are very curious and will investigate everything. A
throw pillow or blanket throw on the couch or chair can present an attractive spot
to crawl under. If you are not paying close attention to your bird it could
inadvertently be sat on, causing severe injury or even death.

Rocking Chairs and Recliners
Take care to not let your Cockatiel under rocking chairs or recliners. A bird can
easily be accidentally crushed to death when either are rocked or foot rests are let
down.

Windows and Doors
When you have your bird out of the cage with you, make sure all windows and
doors are closed. You should also close the blinds or curtains so your Cockatiel
doesn't fly into the window pane. To your bird the outdoors simply looks like a
huge flight and play area. It is unaware that there is a pane of glass separating it

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Your First Cockatiel – A Guide To Getting Started

from all that great room to fly. Flying into the glass can seriously injure your
Cockatiel.

Screens
These present another hazard as well. If your window screens are the weaker nylon
type instead of aluminum, it is possible that your bird could hit and go right
through it. You should always be sure the windows and doors are closed, and the
blinds pulled before letting your bird out.

Electrical Cords
Never allow your bird near electrical cords. Cockatiels love to chew and have very
sharp beaks. You could not imagine just how fast a Cockatiel can bite into an
electrical cord. This is almost always fatal!

Exposed Nail Heads
We have probably all moved a picture from one wall to another, forgetting to
remove the now unused nail. Should your bird fly into the wall and encounter the
nail it could be very seriously injured. This very thing happened to one of our
Cockatiels just a couple of years ago. She suffered a serious gash and was bleeding
profusely. I stopped the bleeding and rushed her to the vet. She recovered fine but I
have never forgotten it.

Ceiling Fans
Ceiling fans can be in any room, not just the living room. Ceiling fans should be
turned off in all rooms your Cockatiel will be out of the cage in. A spinning blade
has enough force to break bones, cause head trauma, or even kill your bird.

Wood Stoves and Fireplaces
These both pose obvious hazards to your Cockatiel. Landing on a wood stove or
flying into a fireplace that is in use can cause serious injury or death. Even a
fireplace that is not in use poses possible dangers for your bird if it ingests ashes.
Remember that in a split second your beloved Cockatiel could land on a hot wood
stove, or fly into a fireplace.

Bathroom Hazards

Bathrooms hold a number of hazards for your bird. Many of which are simple
common sense but are all too often overlooked.

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Your First Cockatiel – A Guide To Getting Started

Sink, Bath Tub and Toilet
As with the kitchen sink, these are also drowning hazards for your Cockatiel.

Bathroom Mirror
The large bathroom mirror poses the same danger as windows. Your bird does not
recognize what it sees as a reflection. To it the reflection is another room. If your
Cockatiel is able to gain enough momentum before hitting the mirror it could be
fatal.

Curling Irons, Blow Dryers and Hot Rollers
Cockatiels can move very quickly and could land on these hot appliances before
you can intervene to stop them. The resulting burns can be very painful for the
bird, requiring immediate veterinarian attention.

Hairspray, Perfumes and Deodorants
All of these emit fumes that can injure a Cockatiels respiratory system. These
fumes are potentially deadly to your bird.

Bathroom Cleaners
Cleaning products like Bleach, Comet, 409, etc., can all be extremely dangerous
for birds. If you use powdered cleanser like Comet, it can put chemical dust into
the air. This dust can be potentially deadly if inhaled by your bird. Bleach and
many other bathroom cleaning products emit extremely harmful vapors.

Bedroom Hazards

Although there are not many hazards in the bedroom, injuries could happen if you
are not aware of what your Cockatiel is doing at all times.

Dresser Drawers
To a curious Cockatiel an open dresser drawer can seem like an inviting place to
hide. This is fine as long as nobody closes the drawer with the bird inside.

Laundry Baskets
Just like the dresser drawer, a laundry basket is an inviting place to explore and
hide. Be extra careful to ensure your Cockatiel isn't in the basket before tossing the
clothes into the washer. If the washer were started without your realizing the bird
was caught in the laundry, it would be tragic.

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Your First Cockatiel – A Guide To Getting Started

Beds
I know it can be really tempting to curl up in bed with your adorable Cockatiel
cuddled up under your chin. This is an extremely hazardous practice if you should
unintentionally fall asleep. You could easily roll over in your sleep and crush the
bird.

Other Hazards

Below is a list of other common household hazards to be aware of. These can all
potentially cause injury, or even death, to your cockatiel.

Costume Jewelry
Many of the inexpensive jewelry items you may have for everyday use can contain
lead, which is very toxic to birds. If your jewelry is made of nickel, or it has been
electroplated, chances are it contains some amount of lead. Take care not to let
your Cockatiel chew on this type of jewelry. It could cause heavy metal poisoning
which can be fatal.

Paints and Glues
These produce fumes that can be harmful or fatal to birds. If you are going to be
using these types of products you should remove your birds from the area. Also be
sure the area has been aired out before the birds are returned.

Certain Building Materials
If you are going to be doing a remodeling job in your home, there are a few
material hazards you should know about. These are Paneling and Sheet Rock.

* New paneling sometimes contains formaldehyde which emits fumes that are
harmful to your bird.

* Sheet Rock joints need to be sanded after the joint compound has dried. The
sanding process produces a fine dust which can harm your birds respiratory
system.

* New carpeting can produce a chemical odor that is potentially harmful for your
bird.

If you will be installing any of these products in your home remove your birds
first. Make sure any odor or dust has cleared out before returning your Cockatiel to
the area.

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Your First Cockatiel – A Guide To Getting Started

Scented Candles and Potpourri
Many of us use Potpourri and scented candles in our homes. The aroma from these
products are very pleasant to us, but very hazardous to birds.

Scented candles produce fumes that could very well kill your Cockatiel. If you
love your candles, and just can't live without them, you should move your bird to
another room.

The danger with Potpourri isn't fumes but the possibility of ingestion by your bird.
To your Cockatiel that colorful mixture looks like a great snack but could be fatal.
The oils that produce the pleasant aroma can at the very least make your bird very
sick. At the worst it could kill your bird in a matter of minutes.

Tobacco and Cigarette Smoke
We all know the dangers associated with smoking and second hand smoke for
people. For birds the danger is far greater.

As I mentioned before, birds have a very delicate respiratory system. You have
probably heard how miners used to take a Canary into the mine shafts to test for
gas leaks. This was because the gas would kill the bird long before it harmed the
miners.

If you do smoke it is best to at a minimum do so away from your birds. The safest
practice for your birds is to go outside.

Other Pets
You may have the most loving and friendly Dog or Cat in the world, but that
doesn't necessarily mean your bird is safe.

It is natural instinct for Dogs and Cats to chase and attack birds. Even if yours has
never done so, it only takes 1 time for tragedy to strike. Your Dog or Cat may seem
to be completely uninterested in your Cockatiel. Then suddenly one day it pounces.
You can never be sure why, it could of just been a sudden flurry of movement by
the bird. Regardless of the reason, your Cockatiel is suddenly injured or killed.

Always be sure to closely supervise your other pets when they are in the same
room as your Cockatiel. If something should happen, make sure you are aware and
in a position to react quickly.

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Your First Cockatiel – A Guide To Getting Started

Cats are in a way are much more dangerous than Dogs. This is because their saliva
is extremely toxic to birds. Even if your bird seems relatively unhurt after an
encounter with a cat, it may not be. Even a single puncture from a Cats tooth can
cause a life threatening infection.

I should also mention that other birds can also be dangerous to your Cockatiel.
Larger birds in the Parrot family like African Grays, Cockatoos or Macaws, can
easily injure or kill your Cockatiel.

Toxic House Plants
Some plants that we like to keep can be dangerous to birds. A very accurate listing
of both safe and toxic plants can be found here.

Drafts
You should not place your birds cage near an entry door that is opened often during
winter months. Cold drafts can sometimes make your Cockatiel ill.

Also be aware of the direction your heating vents are blowing. I had a Cockatiel
become ill from a heating vent blowing on it. When your furnace fan first kicks on,
the first blast of air is usually cold. These constant short blasts of cold air could
make your Cockatiel ill.

Direct Sunlight
Your Cockatiel loves the sun but just like us they should not get too much. Always
provide them with a source of shade when outdoors, or near a sunny window, to
prevent overheating.

Signs of overheating include panting and holding the wings away from the body.

Matchsticks, Pens, Markers and Crayons
Don't let your Cockatiel chew on items like these. They are toxic!

Although I have not listed every possible household hazard your bird may
encounter, these are the most common. Just remember to always supervise your
Cockatiel when it's out of the cage and you'll avoid any tragedies.

© Copyright 2015 Zappa Aviaries. All Rights Reserved.

Your First Cockatiel – A Guide To Getting Started

First-aid

The information provided in this section is intended to enable you to render aid
to your bird if an emergency should arise. It should in no way be used as a
substitute for visiting a qualified avian vet.

As with any type of pet, birds can suffer from occasional accidents or mishaps. The
important thing is to be prepared. I feel the best place to start is by assembling a
bird first-aid kit.

You don't need anything fancy. I use a simple Tupperware type container for mine.
Below is the list of items I always have on hand in my bird first-aid kit. There may
be additional items you wish to include, but these have met all of my needs.

1. A 5x7 index card with your vets emergency contact information.
2. About a dozen alcohol wipes for sterilizing items like hemostats.
3. Several antiseptic wipes.
4. A small Pkg. Of Q-Tips
5. About a dozen 2” x 2” sterile gauze pads.
6. 1 or 2 gauze bandages.
7. A roll of white medical tape.
8. Several folded paper towels.
9. Topical Antibiotic Cream.
10.A small bottle of Hydrogen Peroxide.
11.Kwik-Stop to stop bleeding.
12.A bottled water. (unopened)
13.A pair of Hemostats, for pulling broken blood feathers.
14.A small pair of wire clippers.
15.Tweezers
16.Nail Clippers.
17.Small pair of scissors.
18.Eyedropper
19.Feeding Syringes.
20.A small sealed container of Hand Feeding Formula.
21.A Magnifying Glass for inspection of wounds.
22.A small Heating Pad.
23.Hand Sanitizer Gel.

These items have always been enough to meet any emergency needs that I have
encountered. Please remember these items, and the following First-Aid
information, is only intended to help you aid your bird until you can reach a

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Your First Cockatiel – A Guide To Getting Started

qualified veterinarian.
Never use any information provided here as a substitute for the care of a qualified
Avian Veterinarian.

Common Medical Emergencies
The following information pertains to the most common emergency situations that
a Cockatiel owner may encounter. I know from experience just how frightening it
can be the first time your bird is injured. The first thing to remember is that
knowledge is power. The information provided here will give you the knowledge
needed to stabilize your bird until you can get to the vet.

Broken Blood Feathers
This is a very common injury that occurs with Cockatiels. Blood feathers are new
feathers coming in. Unlike fully developed feathers, these new feathers contains
blood.

A blood feather can be accidentally broken in a number of ways.

• Getting caught on cage bars, toys, etc..
• Playing
• A fall
• A Night Fright incident.

A broken blood feather will bleed a lot, and can be very frightening to a new bird
owner. Just remember that although it is an emergency situation, it is one of the
easiest injuries to treat.

The first thing to remember with this, or any type of emergency, is to remain calm.
If you are stressed or in a panic your bird will sense it.

The broken blood feather will need to be pulled to stop the bleeding. If possible
have a friend or family member hold the bird while you pull the feather. Wrapping
the bird in a towel will help to keep it calm while you work on the feather.

Use a pair of Hemostats to grip the bleeding feather at the base, then pull the
feather straight out, with a hard and fast motion. If it is a flight feather that is
bleeding, be careful to support the wing to avoid injury. Apply a small amount of
Kwik-Stop to the follicle to stop any remaining bleeding. I usually apply a small
amount of topical antibacterial cream to the area once the bleeding has stopped.

© Copyright 2015 Zappa Aviaries. All Rights Reserved.

Your First Cockatiel – A Guide To Getting Started

That's all there is to treating a broken blood feather. In most cases a trip to the
veterinarian is not necessary.

Burns
A burn is very serious injury and your bird needs to be seen by an emergency vet
right away.

Rinse the burned area with as much cool water as you can before leaving for the
veterinarians office. Do not attempt to bandage or otherwise cover the burned area.
Your vet will clean the area and make a dressing that is especially designed for
burns.

Burns are not only very painful for your bird, they are also very susceptible to
infection. Never treat any burn injury yourself.

Fractures
If you think your bird may have a fractured wing or leg, it should be moved to a
hospital tank immediately. My hospital tank is simply a 10 gallon aquarium. The
reason for the tank instead of a cage is to prevent your bird from climbing, possibly
causing further injury.

Examine your bird for any possible bleeding. If there is any bleeding carefully
apply some cornstarch or Kwik-Stop. Using a piece of gauze apply firm pressure
until the bleeding has stopped. If the bleeding does not stop, keep pressure on the
wound and get to the vet immediately.

If it is your birds wing that you think may be broken;

Secure the wing to your birds body by wrapping a bandage around
its body and secure it with medical tape. Be careful not to wrap the
bandage too tightly. You want it just tight enough to secure the wing.
Be careful not to tape directly on any feathers.

Remember that if you cannot stop any bleeding that may be present, don't waste
valuable time bandaging. Get straight to the vet immediately!

© Copyright 2015 Zappa Aviaries. All Rights Reserved.

Your First Cockatiel – A Guide To Getting Started

Egg Binding
This is a serious life threatening condition that requires emergency treatment by an
avian veterinarian right away.

Egg binding occurs when a female bird produces an egg and cannot pass it. There
are many reasons that egg binding can occur, most commonly a calcium
deficiency. Below is a list of the common symptoms of an egg bound bird.

• Sitting on the floor of the cage for a long period of time.
• Visual signs of straining or abdominal contractions for long periods.
• Panting or other signs of distress
• An egg partially protruding.

If you suspect your female Cockatiel is egg bound it is important to keep her warm
and quiet. Raising the humidity can also help to relax the muscles.

It is very important to keep the female bird very warm, quiet and humid to help the
muscles relax, and also to keep her low down, preferably on the floor. This is why
a hospital tank is good for these cases.

A vet can administer a drug called oxytocin to help her expel the egg. If this does
not work, they could try deflating it by draining the contents of the shell with a
needle. This reduces the pressure on the surrounding organs, and the female then
needs to pass the shell. If this fails, your vet can surgically remove the egg.

Concussion
A concussion can occur if your bird flies into a hard object such as a window or
mirror.

It is always best to have your bird seen by an avian vet if you feel it has suffered a
concussion. The main threat is that there may be bleeding in the brain, which is not
immediately detectable. The symptoms of a concussion include;

• Appearing off balance or “Dizzy”
• Flying very erratically
• Drooping head
• Sudden sleepiness
• Possibly vomiting

© Copyright 2015 Zappa Aviaries. All Rights Reserved.

Your First Cockatiel – A Guide To Getting Started

Bleeding (Other than from Blood Feather)
Sometimes when you accidentally clip your birds beak or nails too short, bleeding
can occur. Another common cause of bleeding is a recent surgery, that is if your
bird picks at the wound.

If you trim your own birds nails or beak, you will probably clip a little short at one
time or another. If this occurs you should first try applying pressure with a gauze
pad. If that doesn't stop the bleeding use a styptic pencil or powder. If you do not
have them then I recommend applying a small amount of flour or cornstarch.

In the event that your bird has undergone a recent surgery, picking at the stitches or
wound could be a problem. If this happens and causes the wound to reopen and
bleed, stop the bleeding using the above methods. Once the bleeding has been
stopped you should return to the vet to have a collar fitted. The collar will keep the
bird from picking at the wound until it is healed properly.

Diarrhea
There are many possible causes for diarrhea in birds. Possible causes include
everything from diet to serious illness.

If your bird develops a case of diarrhea;

1. Remove any fresh fruits you may be feeding your bird.
2. Feeding your bird any of the following may correct the problem.

• Jar Baby Food
• Peanut Butter
• Cooked White Rice
• A Few Drops Of Pepto Bismol

If the diarrhea does not improve within a few hours of trying these dietary
remedies, contact your veterinarian immediately. It could be a more serious illness.

When dealing with an injured or sick bird, remember to stay as calm as possible. A
bird can sense if you are stressed which will likewise stress the bird. Stress can
bring on a number of additional problems for your bird.

© Copyright 2015 Zappa Aviaries. All Rights Reserved.

Your First Cockatiel – A Guide To Getting Started

Healthy Bird Recipes

Zappas Bird Bread

Pre-heat oven to 350 degrees

Ingredients:

• 1 cup flour
• 1 cup yellow cornmeal
• 4 tsp baking powder
• ½ cup frozen mixed vegetables
• ½ cup finely chopped broccoli
• ½ cup nuts & dried fruits (Bananas, Pineapple, Apricots, Flaked Coconut

and Shaved Almonds.)
• ¼ cup vegetable oil
• 2 eggs (Shell and All)
• 1 cup Almond Milk (could substitute soy or rice milk)
• 1/8 teaspoon of salt

Directions:

1. Mix together the flour, cornmeal & baking powder.

2. Add the chopped broccoli, frozen mixed vegetables, dried fruits and nuts.

3. Add the almond milk, eggs (with shell) and vegetable oil.

4. Mix until smooth using an electric mixer.

5. Bake for 20-25 minutes, or until a toothpick comes out clean when inserted at
the center of the bread.

6. Cool and cut into cubes. ( ¾ inch, or desired size)

I divide what I don't use right away into small freezer bags and freeze them. Only
put as many cubes as you'll use in 2 or 3 days into each freezer bag. Simply pull a

© Copyright 2015 Zappa Aviaries. All Rights Reserved.

Your First Cockatiel – A Guide To Getting Started

bag out when you need it. Thaw and serve.

______________________________

Zappas Bird Salad

Ingredients:

• 1 cup chopped zucchini
• 1 cup chopped broccoli
• 1 cup chopped kale
• 1 cup frozen mixed vegetables (thawed)
• 1 cup cooked brown rice
• ½ cup coconut flakes (optional)
• 1 teaspoon ground cinnamon

Directions:

1. Mix all ingredients in a large bowl. (mix it up well)
2. Separate salad into freezer bags. Only put as much in each bag as you think

your bird or birds will use in 1 – 2 days.
3. Place 1 bag in refrigerator to use and the rest in the freezer.

Take the bags out of the freezer as you need them and thaw in refrigerator.

_______________________________

Birdy Pudding

Ingredients:

• 6 med. Sweet potatoes
• 2 tablespoons plain vanilla yogurt
• ½ cup chunky peanut butter
• ½ cup frozen mixed vegetables
• ½ tablespoon ground cinnamon
• almond milk or fruit juice

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Your First Cockatiel – A Guide To Getting Started

Directions:

1. Boil or bake the sweet potatoes and peel
2. In a large bowl with an electric mixer, blend the sweet potatoes, peanut

butter, yogurt and cinnamon. While blending slowly add almond milk or
fruit juice, until the consistency of thick pudding is reached.
3. Using a spoon (not mixer) stir in the frozen mixed vegetables
4. Using freezer bags or containers, separate into single portions and freeze
what is not used right away.

When needed simply take out of the freezer and thaw.

______________________________

This Is A Favorite Of All Our Birds

Ingredients:

• 4 cups finely chopped broccoli
• 6 hard boiled eggs (chopped shell and all)
• ½ cup dried meal worms

Directions:

1. Finely chop broccoli in a chopper or food processor, set aside.
2. Finely chop the eggs (shell and all) in the same manner.
3. Combine the broccoli and eggs in a large bowl and mix well.
4. Crumble the dried meal worms into mixture and stir in.

This is a very easy recipe that all of our birds love. It is gobbled up by Cockatiels,
Finches, Doves, Lovebirds, etc..

NOTE: This recipe does not freeze well, but can be safely kept in the refrigerator
for up to three days. Also note that this makes a large amount because we have
many, many birds. For fewer birds simply cut the recipe in half or even ¼.

© Copyright 2015 Zappa Aviaries. All Rights Reserved.

Your First Cockatiel – A Guide To Getting Started

Afterword

I hope this book has provided you with some valuable information to get you
started with your new bird.
The topics covered represent the most common issues and questions new Cockatiel
owners have. Even though I did write this book with Tiels in mind, a lot of the
information provided also applies to all birds.

There is one thing I didn't discuss in this book. That is just what an excellent
companion bird a Cockatiel is.
With their beautiful colors and affectionate personalities, they absolutely steal our
hearts. As you and your new Cockatiel interact each day, your bond will become
stronger and stronger.
Can you think of anything more rewarding than this beautiful bird trusting you
unconditionally. Communicating in its own special way, the affection it feels for
you.
I spend time with each of my birds every day. They are each unique with their own
individual personalities. When one of these beautiful birds is snuggled into my
neck, or playing with my hair, a warm and happy feeling surrounds me. This
feeling is one you have to experience, and will, with your Cockatiel.

I wish you and your new Cockatiel years of love and joy!

© Copyright 2015 Zappa Aviaries. All Rights Reserved.

Your First Cockatiel – A Guide To Getting Started

Resources

Below is a list of websites I feel you will find helpful.

National Cockatiel Society
I encourage you to join the NCS. Your membership includes a subscription to their
publications, member only information and ability to order official leg bands.
NCS Facebook Group
If you have a Facebook account then check out the National Cockatiel Society
Facebook Group. This is one of the best resources for information, help and advice.

Cockatiel Cottage
This site has become the go to authority for many Cockatiel owners and breeders.
You'll find a wealth of information here.

Zappa Aviaries
I invite you to visit my website. You will see our birds and can contact me from the
contact page if you wish.

eBay
A great place to find bird supplies of all kinds.

American Cockatiel Society
Another great organization to join.
ACS Facebook Group
The American Cockatiel Society also has a very helpful and informative Facebook
group.

© Copyright 2015 Zappa Aviaries. All Rights Reserved.