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Filled with historical photos, "Chicago, the First 100 Years" takes you back to the birth of Chicago with eyewitness accounts of what it was like to arrive on the shores of Lake Michigan and to find this small outpost without a single paved sreet or sidewalk. The Great Fire of 1871 is also documented with photos that will shock you and clearly portray the devastation thst ensued.

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Published by Aleo Publications Free eBooks, 2016-12-26 15:10:24

Chicago The First 100 Years 1833-1933

Filled with historical photos, "Chicago, the First 100 Years" takes you back to the birth of Chicago with eyewitness accounts of what it was like to arrive on the shores of Lake Michigan and to find this small outpost without a single paved sreet or sidewalk. The Great Fire of 1871 is also documented with photos that will shock you and clearly portray the devastation thst ensued.

Keywords: Chicago,Fort Dearborm,Chicago Fire

Chicago

The First 100 Years

1833-1933



1

Chicago

The First 100 Years

1833-1933

2

Des Plaines
River

Marquette and Joliet’s 2,500 mile
expedition in 1671, showing that
they passed right by what one day

would be Chicago.

In 1673, Marquette and Joliet led their party down the Mississippi to the mouth of the Arkansas River. Strange Indi-
ans with guns suddenly surrounded them there. Only the sight of the calumet kept these Indians from attacking.
Some of them became friendly enough to tell Marquette that the guns came from white explorers who were about
10 days' journey farther south. These could only be Spaniards, and it would have been dangerous to go on, so the
French explorers ended their trip down the Mississippi and returned to Canada by way of the Illinois River. They
passed the present site of Chicago on this part of the trip, and returned to Green Bay in late September.
Their four-month journey had carried them more than 2,500 miles.

3

Chicago—The 16oo’s The next European to appear on the
The First men to come to the Chicago scene was an Italian named Henry
Tonti and a French explorer named Robert
Chicago area were Indians. This area was Cavalier Sieur de La Salle. In June 1681,
great for hunting deer, fox, bear and other they met for a conference on Mackinac Island
wildlife. The great lake we call Lake to plan a chain of forts that would secure the
Michigan was filled with fish, amply middle continent for France. Tonti came to
supplying the Indians with food for their the Chicago river to build cargo sledges for
families. the expedition. La Salle followed in January,
1682, and dated several letters "From the
The First European visitors were portage of Checagou.' which he described as
Marquette and Jolliet. Jacques Marquette was a place with good possibilities for the future.
a Jesuit missionary. He was joined by Louis
Jolliet in December 1672. The French As early as 1682, Robert Cavalier de La Salle
governor of Quebec authorized these two wrote a letter to a friend in France and made
men to lead an expedition in search for a an accurate prediction of this location, recog-
great river said to be running somewhere nizing its uniqueness and value. He stated:
west. They started in May 1673 by way of “This is the lowest point on the divide be-
Green Bay. On June 17 they entered the tween the two great valleys of the St. Law-
great Mississippi and claimed the stupendous rence and the Mississippi. The boundless re-
discovery for France. By mid-July they had gions of the West must send their products
gone as far south as the Arkansas River and to the East through this point. This will be
learned that the Mississippi ran to the Gulf the gate of empire, this the seat of com-
of Mexico. merce… If I were to give this place a name, I
would derive it from the nature of the man
On the return journey they steered who will occupy this place — ago, I act;
their canoes into the Illinois, and stopped circum, all around; Circago.” 13
near the future site of Peoria to visit an
Indian Village. Marquette preached three The recollections of this statement, imparted
sermons which so impressed the listeners that to an Indian chief, remained but indistinctly,
they made him promise to come back. Two and when the Americans who built Fort
hundred miles on, Marquette and Jolliet Dearborn came to these wilds, they heard
entered the Des Plaines River, and talked what they thought to be the legendary name
with Indians who guided them through the of the place, and pronounced it as did the In-
Chicago River portage to the Great Lake. dians, Che-ca-go instead of Circago, as La-
Both recognized the significance of the Salle had named it. 13
Chicago portage, and Jolliet wrote in his
report that "the cutting of one canal through Edwin Gale, in his book “Reminiscences of
half a league of prairie at this place' would Early Chicago”, written in 1898 and pub-
allow boats to pass on a continental waterway lished in 1902 states that this is the true
reaching from the St. Lawrence to the Gulf meaning and origin of the name. He stated
of Mexico. While fulfilling his promise to that “the meanings “Wild onion” and the
the Indians in May 1675, Marquette became
ill and died at age 37.

4

Chicago’s first permanent resident was Jean Baptiste Point du Sable. In 1779, he started the cities first commercial
enterprise, a river trading post on the north bank east of the Fork.

Approximate location of
du Sable’s Trading Post

In 1779.

“Pole-cat” theories came later and have no the whole great middle valley.
foundation.” 13
After La Salle and Tonti had gone, a
La Salle obtained a royal commission hundred years went by, and nothing
to plant a settlement on the lower happened in the area. The name "Chekagou,"
Mississippi, and sailed from France in July appeared on a map in 1684, but aside from an
1684 with four shiploads of colonists. By a occasional trapper, no one passed through to
navigational mistake, they landed on the hear the desolate sounds of wind in the oak
coast of Texas. La Salle started across and cottonwood, surf on the shore, and sea
country for the Mississippi, but somewhere gulls crying.
on the way his men mutinied and murdered
him. One may claim La Salle and Tonti as
Chicagoans ........ they were the first to use
the Chicago River as a base of operations for

5

Chicago—The 17oo’s The fort was completed by 1804, and
In 1779, the founder of modern occupied by a company of the First Regiment
of the U.S. Infantry, under command of its
Chicago made his entrance. He was a constructor, Captain John Whistler. 13, 14
French Canadian named Jean Baptiste Point
du Sable. He started the cities first When Whistler and his men arrived,
commercial enterprise, a river trading post on there was only one building standing in this
the north bank east of the Fork. He also place. It was the small log cabin that had
cleared a white oak forest for a cornfield and been built in 1779 by Jean Du Sable on the
worked a farm in addition to his trade in north side of the river. At the time of Whis-
Furs. tler’s arrival in 1802, this log cabin was
owned and occupied by Jean La Lime, and
Chicago—The 18oo’s his Pottawattamie wife.
In 1800 Du Sable sold his property to
All went well for a number of years.
another Canadian, Jean Lalime. The original The soldiers worked the gardens outside the
bill of sale, which was rediscovered in 1913 in fort, swam in the water, drilled regularly.
an archive in Detroit, outlined all of the Indian chiefs would come by at times. They
property Point du Sable owned as well as also had fiestas. Dances, games, wrestling
many of his personal artifacts, including mir- matches and races were some of the activities
rors, French walnut cabinets, and other fur- being enjoyed at Fort Dearborn.
nishings that were unusually fine for life on
the frontier. His complex of domestic and A visitor, named William Johnson is
commercial buildings totaled nearly four on record saying: “Fort Dearborn is the
thousand square feet and undoubtedly oper- neatest and best garrison in the country.”
ated a major trading post. This included a Captain Whistler built the fort from his own
main house with ground floor space of 22 by plans. It had a 12 foot stockade, along with
40 feet, two barns, a mill that ran by iron crow’s feet mounted on top. There were
mulepower, a bakehouse, a workshop, a dairy, two blockhouses, one containing two
and a smokehouse. In addition there were 2 cannons, the other containing one cannon
calves, 2 mules, 28 hogs, 30 head of cattle, and a large stand of small arms. As a person
and 44 hens. After concluding Chicago's first would enter the main gate facing south, he
business deal, Du Sable went to Missouri, would immediately come upon the soldiers’
where he died in 1814, a substantial citizen, barracks and the hospital.
and was buried in the Catholic cemetery at
St. Charles. Jean Lalime sold the business he had
purchased from du Sable and became the
In the spring of 1803, the first men Indian interpreter at the Fort. A 31 year old,
wearing the uniform of the U.S. Army named John Kinzie purchased Lalimes
arrived in Chicago on the schooner, “Tracy”. property. He did quite well as a businessman.
They were sent here by the Secretary of War, Being in the fur trade business, he eventually
General Henry Dearborn, whose name was had additional trading posts on the Rock
to be given to the Fort they were sent to River and also up north near Milwaukee. He
build. (It was built at the south bank of the
river where Michigan Avenue joins Wacker
Drive today.)

6

1857 drawing of John Kinzie’s house c.1804

enlarged the house he purchased from general breakdown in relationships taking
LaLime and even added a porch. place within Fort Dearborn as well as with
the neighboring Indians.
As time went on, trouble began to
brew. Liquor seemed to be a catalyst to Trouble was brewing in other parts of
problems. The Indians were getting rum the country about this time as well. Their
from the white man. When drunk, some were reports of scalpings taking place by
Indian squaws had developed such a taste for Indians in Wisconsin. Within a short time,
liquor that some were selling favors to any more and more tribes were going on the
comer just to obtain some liquor. As we can warpath.
imagine, relations were becoming greatly
strained between the Indians and White Settlers were fleeing to nearby forts.
man. Kinzie made his way back to Chicago and
moved his family into the stockade.
In April of 1812, Kinzie and LaLime
got into a major fight. Knives came out, La On August 9th, an Indian runner
Lime was killed. Kinzie claiming he fought delivered to General Heald here at Fort
in self-defense, ended up fleeing to his Indian Dearborn an order to evacuate to either Fort
friends in Wisconsin. These few incidents Wayne, Indiana or Detroit, Michigan. Before
mentioned, demonstrate that their was a doing so, Captain Heald had distributed to

7

the Potawotamis a vast amount of trade Braves had brutally slain the majority of the
goods in exchange for a promise of safe “pale-faces,” including the women and
conduct. children. This attack took place at what is
now the corner of Sixteenth Street and
On August 15, 1812, at 9:00 a.m. the Prairie Avenue. The following day, Fort
soldiers rode out in formation, followed by Dearborn was burned to the ground.
the wagons containing supplies, as well as
many women and children on foot. Some Two people stayed in Chicago during
were riding in the two wagons containing this violent time. The were Antoine
baggage. At the rear, were the men making Ouilmette and his Indian wife. They were
up part of the militia. After leaving the the only two occupants living in Chicago in
protection of the Fort, they turned south and August of 1812.
journeyed for about a mile and a half. It was a
very hot and still day. Suddenly, without At Washington, an event of
warning, they found themselves surrounded importance to Chicago took place in 1814
by 300 - 500 Potawotami Braves laying in when President Madison sought
ambush. Within just 15 minutes, the Indian Congressional authorization to cut a canal

The Original 1803 Fort Dearborn Site Oriented Model

8

Note that Ouilmette’s residence was next to Kinzie residence on the north side of the river,
just across from the fort.

from the miry foot of the Chicago River to fowl who fed on rice at the edges of the
the Des Plaines and the Illinois, so linking portage swamp. There were the wild geese,
Lake Michigan and the Mississippi River as swans and ducks, choice game fish included
Jolliet had suggested 131 years before. The giant pike and muskellunge.
proposal laid on the shelf in Washington for
thirteen years. Throughout the 1820's, more serious
than any sport was the business of taking
Antoine Ouilmette and his wife land that had belonged traditionally to the
continued to be the only residents living by Indians. The treatment of the Indians is to
the Lake till 1816 when John Kinzie and his reprehensible to relate. It should be noted
family came home. that in 1832, the Indian tribe called the
Sauks were heading for Wisconsin. Not
During the 1820's, Chicago gradually intending to make war, they were just hoping
grew to be a hamlet of 150 residents. This to find planting room. Federal Troops fired
village, though small, was not in a state of upon them and the so called Black Hawk
hibernation. There was continual building, a War began. (Black Hawk was the leader of
fence here, a barn or cabin there. And the Sauks) In 1832, when word got out that
numerous travelers reported on the the Indians were on the warpath, Chicago
merrymaking that accompanied the got into some serious trouble. A mob of
hospitality of some of the residents. There refugees hastened to Chicago and
was a selection of field sports - hunting wolf overwhelmed the villages first hotel. Some
on horseback, the bear on foot, the aquatic others found lodging in the towns two dozen

9

houses, but most lived at the wagon parks or the river. The memories of all the Chicago
under tents. Many of the people died in children in that period included fascination of
Chicago from the ravages of cholera, brought the wagon parks at night when the supper
to town by the federal troops, and exploding fires and lanterns dotted the darkness. By
among the refugees when hot weather hit day, the travelers revealed themselves to be
their unsanitary camps. The disease would lanky and bearded men, their wives worn-
attack without warning; the suddenly looking and drably dressed, the children
nauseated victims would fall to the ground peering from wagons, their dogs slinking
with excruciating pains in their legs and beneath.
backs, sometimes dying at once, sometimes
living through two days, eaten by fevers of On May 25, 1835, Edwin O Gale
such voracity that body temperature would and his family sailed into Chicago aboard the
continue to rise for several hours after death. brig named “Illinois” that had taken passage
at Buffalo. When Captain Jack Wagstaff
It should be noted that the Indian lowered the sails that beautiful Monday
brave named Black Hawk became a figure of morning, they were about a half mile from
romance, and today his name appears at the western shore of Lake Michigan. 25
several places in Chicago, perhaps most
notably on the shirts of the Chicago Hockey Within site of those on the vessel
Team - The Black Hawks. were countless numbers of Indian wigwams,
and their dusky occupants, while dark
Backing up to August 1827; This is skinned braves were paddling in the lake. 25
when the news arrived that congress had
finally authorized the Illinois and Michigan The shoreline was a succession of low
Canal. Two more years passed before the sandy hills, partly covered with a scrubby
State Legislature set up a commission to growth of cedars, junipers and pines. Beyond
carry out the plan, which included the were detached groves, mostly of small black
making of a survey and map of Chicago. oaks. A little further west, reaching to the
Published August 4, 1830, the map showed north branch of the river, were a few noble
an area 3/8 of a mile square bounded by elms, while further up the stream a fine belt
Halsted, Kinzie, State, and Madison streets. of hickory, maple, birch and a variety of oaks
spread gradually wider and wider towards the
Incorporation as a town was enacted east until, joining the lake shore timber, they
on August 4, 1833, the population was 550. formed the southern outpost of the immense
On November 6, the trustees increased the forest stretching to the north…” 26
area of Chicago, making Ohio Street the new
boundary on the north, Jackson street on the Near the south bank of the river, but a
south, the Lake on the East and Jefferson few hundred feet from the lake, stood Fort
street on the west. In l833, 150 new buildings Dearborn, consisting of some half dozen bar-
went up in Chicago and over 20,000 visitors racks, officers’ quarters and other buildings,
had passed through the town. with a blockhouse in the southwest angle, all
constructed of wood and surrounded by high,
Two hundred wagons a week would pull in at pointed pickets placed closely together,
the campgrounds between Halsted Street and which, with the buildings, were well white-





12

washed. Adjoining the Fort, near its north- There were a number of taverns in
west corner was a small, circular, stone light- Chicago by 1835. The first to be built was
house. Around these clustered a few cabins, the Wolf Point Tavern. It was built in 1828
like timid chickens that did not dare to stray by Jim Kinzie and Archibald Caldwell. Jim
beyond their mother’s sheltered wings.27 Kinzie was the oldest son of John Kinzie,
who died in the same year that the Wolf
It took Gale’s family 32 days of travel Tavern was built, 1828. Initially, the Wolf
to make the voyage from New York City, 23 Tavern was a small one room affair, made of
days of which were spent on this small sailing logs that were clay chinked.
vessel. 28
Although there was plenty of trees
Upon the arrival of this vessel in and forests all around the small hamlet on the
1835, there was a building located on the shore of Lake Michigan, there were no mills
south bank of the river at LaSalle Street. This for splicing. So, in the early 1830’s, the first
was the first building ever erected here for spliced wood came from the closest mill,
storage purposes. The Proprietor of this which was 40 miles away, in Walker’s Grove,
warehouse was Gordon S. Hubbard. 30 later named Plainfield in 1841. This was
James Walker’s Mill. He came to the Ot-
When these pioneers arrived at this tawa—Plainfield area in 1929 with his horse-
desolate outpost, they were advised to go the powered saw mill.
Green Tree Tavern. Viewing the 1833 map
on the previous page, The Green Tree Tav- The guests of the Wolf Tavern, in-
ern is located just north of the Wolf Tavern cluding the Gale family and other guests who
and due east of where the North and South had arrived aboard the brig named the
Branch of the Chicago River intersect. The “Illinois”, enjoyed a feast of a meal for break-
Green Tree was erected in 1833 by Jim Kin- fast the following morning. Gale recounts
zie. It was the fifth tavern / Inn built in Chi- that there was fried perch and bass just out of
cago. the river, venison steak and griddle cakes

with wild honey and maple sugar.

The Green Tree Tavern in 1835. It was located on the northeast When Gale and the others
corner of Lake and West Water (now Canal) Street. went outdoors to view their new
home, they found a surrounding
totally void of towns and cities they
had left in the East. At the time,
there were no streets, no sidewalks.
Only a few structures here and
there that dotted the immediate
vicinity. Some sat empty, falling
into disarray. An example was the
tiny frame building that 2 men
named Goss & Cobb has operated
as a harness shop. Already, by
1835, it sat vacant.

13

Most, however were not vacant, a they brought with them to listen to the first
small town of 600 people required elements piano they had ever heard. Being summer
of order, of civilization. George W Snow time, doors and windows were usually open,
started a lumber yard, bearing his name. A and no sooner did mother or sister Georgiana
little east of what would become Wells begin to play then the dusky audience would
Street, Moseley and McCord started a dry assemble. In fact, when the door was open it
goods firm. In 1832, Philo Carpenter opened was there custom to walk in and, by signs,
the first Drug Store. request some music, which was usually fur-
nished them. . . The oldest chiefs exhibited
On South Water Street, just west of as much curiosity in the “singing bird
Dearborn, was the hardware store of King, box,” (they believed it was filled with little
Jones & Co. 47 Over the hardware store was feathered songsters). It was curious to watch
the office of the “Weekly Democrat,” estab- them peer into the instrument, crawl under
lished by John Calhoun on Nov. 26, 1833. It it, touch the keys and then look at each other
was the only paper issued in the vicinity; no and laugh; old and young were equally inter-
other being issued nearer than Detroit or ested, astonished and delighted.” 69
Galena.
In Gale’s Book, titled:
It’s interesting to note that on Water “Reminiscences of Early Chicago”, he relates
Street, just south of Franklin, a man named tidbits of information that would be lost for
Clemens Sr. had a blacksmith shop. He was ever, had he not recorded these events. An
busy making calumets (peace pipes) and example of this is that on October 6th, 1834,
tomahawks for the Indians. 45 a man named John Sweeney shot the last re-
ported bear in the area. It was a 400 pound
At what would later become the specimen and the tree that he was in, was at
southwest corner of Lake Street and State, about the intersection of LaSalle and Adams.
stood the first edifice erected for worship.
This was St. Mary’s Catholic Church built by Another person that Gale wrote about
Augustin D. Taylor, starting in 1833 and is Jean Baptiste Beaubien. His son, Alexan-
completed in 1834. This structure was 25 feet der, was born on January 22, 1822. At the
wide by 35 feet deep. time, there was literally nothing here except
the small Fort Dearborn and a handful of
When the Gale family arrived in Chi- rugged log cabins. Alexander grew up playing
cago, they brought with them all their with his playmates, the Indian boys. He
belongings from the East. This included a learned to shoot bow and arrow with them as
piano. This was the first piano to arrive in well as the rifle later. He shot a black bear
this infant town. The Indians that lived in when he was just eleven years old. He was
the area had never seen or heard a piano. with an Indian boy who was armed with a
They were simply amazed! bow and arrow, while he had the gun; and
when near where Franklin and Jackson now
“The well lighted Gale parlor soon are, a black bear came out of the heavy tim-
became the center of attraction for the Indi- ber, which then extended on the east side of
ans encamped opposite, and others whom the South Branch about a mile and a half.

14

Cook County, Illinois
Inn and Bar License

For each 1 Pint, Rum, Wine or Brandy. . .25
2 .

“ “ Pint, “ “ “ “ . .37 1
2

“ “ 1 Pint, Gin “ “ “. . .18 3
2 “ “. . 4

“ “ Pint, “ “ .31 1
4

“ “ 1 Gill Whiskey “ “. . .06 1
2 4

“ “ Pint, “ “ “ “ . . .12 1
2

“ Breakfast and Supper “ “ “ . . .25

“ Dinner “ “ “ “. . .37 1
2

“ Horse feed “ “ “ “. . .25

“ Lodging for each person one night “ . . .12 1
2

“ Cider or Beer, 1 Pint .06 1 ; 1 Quart . . .12 1
4 2

Cook County, Illinois 1835

1835 Cook County License for Inns and Bars
Annual Cost $5 per License

15

Upon seeing the bear, the Indian boy ran, but reached 29,963. By 1854, the population had
Aleck, though but eleven years old, stood his grown to 80,000.
ground and shot Bruin and killed him.
Chicago had been growing at a faster
Alexander had another experience rate that its police force until February 1855,
near the same time that he killed the bear, when the authorities increased their
that he kept silent about for years. . . The corporal's guard of watchmen to three
Chicago Evening Journal of December 31, precinct organizations, each numbering thirty
1901 tells of this event: “It was about two men plus a captain and four lieutenants. This
years after the Black Hawk war, in 1833 or force came into being just in time for the first
1834, that one of Black Hawk’s warriors rode bloody confrontation on Chicago streets
into town, and Aleck pointed him out to his between police and crowds of angry
uncle, Joseph LaFromboise, who cut the in- demonstrators, in the disturbances known to
truder across the shoulders with his whip and history as the Lager Beer Riots of April 21,
ordered him to go back to his Reservation. 1855.
“Two days afterwards,” says Aleck, “I took
my double barreled flint-lock gun, loaded it The trouble started with the election
with bird shot, and went along the rushes on of a City Council and Mayor from the anti-
the west bank of the river to shoot ducks. As foreign Native American or Know Nothing
I was going softly through the thicket sud- Party. These men had scarcely taken office
denly there in front of me stood this hostile before they raised the annual saloon license
Indian, with a bridle in his hand. He had fee from fifty to three hundred dollars. This
probably lost his horse and was looking for appeared to be done so as to discourage the
it.” foreign-born workingmen's relaxation and
pleasure. The German saloon keepers refused
“As soon as he saw me he drew his to pay the increased license fees as well as
knife and said to me in the Indian tongue, “I close on Sundays because of the new law's
am going to kill you.” He made motions as if stipulation. Police were sent against them
to scalp me.” with pistols and heavy canes. The police
dragged some two hundred publicans and
“I lifted my gun and fired both barrels employees to jail, clubbing those who showed
into his face. He dropped. I ran and did not a fight. April 21st was set as a trial date. On
know that I had killed him until two days April 21st, a crowd of more than four
after when his body was found. I then in- hundred Germans marched to the court
formed my mother, who, knowing the re- room. They were ordered to break up and go
vengeful spirit of the Indians, insisted that I home. When they refused, the police came
should never reveal the fact to anyone and I out with metal weighted clubs. They also
have kept it a profound secret until today.” used handcuffs as brass knuckles. The police
drove them back over the Clark street bridge.
The town became a city in March, As they were retreating, they yelled, "We'll
1837, the population had grown to 4,170. be back!"
Growth continued to accelerate with the
completion of the Chicago and Galena At least a thousand men organized,
Union Railroad. In 1850, the population and they marched down through the north

16

This is where Chicago began, at the juncture of the Chicago River and Lake Michigan. In the 1820’s the population was
less than 100 people. By 1853, when this picture was drawn, the population had already lunged to more than 30,000.

side at 3 PM armed with shotguns, pistols, week. The authorities shelved the Sunday
swords, knives, hammers and clubs. The closing law.
generals of this army had brigaded two
detachments, which they led over the bridge Life in Chicago for the majority, was
to confront two hundred policemen and not easy. In the 1860's, many were making
deputies, who stood in three ranks across meager wages. There was a lot of unrest
Clark Street. because of this. Because of the alarming
reports being gathered, Palmer and others of
Gun Fire on both side broke out. his caliber negotiated with Washington for
Twenty men received serious injuries, with the establishment of Fort Sheridan, and the
one death. After nearly an hour of fighting, Great Lakes Naval Station, eighteen and
the rioters withdrew, carrying the wounded twenty miles north of City Hall. The men,
men, some of which died in the following controling the majority, felt better knowing

17

that the military were near. person ($6.76 per month).

In 1870, the population of Chicago The following photos all predate the
passed 300,000. Two thirds of the people holocaust that ate up much of Chicago in
worked for wages, and 95% of the wage 1871, the Great Chicago Fire.
earners were foreign born. The average
annual pay of the industrial employee came 1870 was a very dry year. From early
to $405.64. Supposing the usual workman to July through the month of September, only
have a wife and three children, this allowed one inch of rain had fallen on the city of
$81.14 per year for the support of each Chicago.. By the first days of October, men

SW corner Dearborn and Adams Streets Built in 1870, Destroyed by the fire in 1871

18

Shepard Block I 1869 – 1871
Photographer: Copelin and Melander
Location: SE corner of Dearborn and Monroe Streets
A. Vail & Son, real estate, on the second floor appear to have been enterprising subdividers. Perry & Crapo, merchant

tailors, had an establishment on the ground floor. Small frame dwellings still lingered at the corner of Adams Street.

19

View of the Custom House Place area of Chicago,
SW corner of Madison and Dearborn Streets, circa.1869
John R. Walsh’s news depot with the Post Office behind it. In 1855, Walsh’s building was replaced by Reynold’s Block.
Bordered by what is now Harrison, Polk, State and Dearborn streets, this area was arguably the most dangerous part of
the city.
Located across from the Dearborn Station, brothel operators would prey on girls arriving to the city and force them into
white slavery. At one point in the late 1860’s, it was estimated that 1,300 prostitutes were in active practice in this area
alone. A precursor to the Levee district of the late 19th century, this area, also known as Gambler’s Row, was called
such not for the vice, but for the fact that you were truly gambling with your life if you ventured there.

20

View from the Second Rush Street Bridge
1869
Photographer: John Carbutt #188
The second Rush Street Bridge (1864-1871) was a pivot bridge, 211 feet long by 32 feet wide, with two 15½ foot car-
riageways. A two-truss bridge modeled after the Wells Street Bridge (1862), each truss was 24 feet in height and had
twenty-six double braces. The bridge deck was composed of Nicholson pavement over 2-inch pine planking.
In September, 1864, during a severe gale, the bridge became unmanageable for several moments and was propelled by
the wind until it spun around on its axis with greta velocity. Several ladies who were on the bridge at the time and even
the bridge tender were considerably alarmed by the violent motion.

21
Location: Dearborn Street, looking north from Madison Street

22

Tribune Building I
Life Span: 1869 – 1871
Location: SE corner of Madison and Dearborn Streets
Architect: Edward Burling
The Tribune, Times and Journal were all on Dearborn, in sight of each other. The Post, Mail and Staats Zeitungwere in
adjoining buildings on Washington street, near Dearborn. The McVicker’s Theatre is seen directly east.
This was the first building of its own construction. The first building the Tribune occupied was on the southwest corner
of Lake and LaSalle streets, where they occupied one room in 1847. Two years later they moved to a room over Grey’s
grocery store at the northwest corner of Clark and Lake streets. A year later the office was moved to a building at what
was then 173 Lake street.
Further growth forced the paper out of this building and in 1852 it moved to the Evans Block at 53 Clark street, between
Lake and Randolph streets.

23

Tribune Building I
Life Span: 1869 – 1871
Location: SE corner of Madison and Dearborn Streets
Architect: Edward Burling
In 1869, The Tribune moved from 51 Clark Street to a new building at, four stories high, of Joliet marble, at the site of
Dearborn and Madison streets. The building was valued at $225,000 and was highly thought of as an architectural ac-
complishment in its day. The paper was published here till the Great Fire of 1871.

24

Dearborn Theatre
(Aiken’s Theatre)
Location: 111-113 Dearborn Street
Between Madison & Washington Streets
n the winter of 1867-68, Frank E. Aiken was instrumental in the renovation of the theater building Nos. 115 and 117
Dearborn Street, originally known as the Varieties, and on the 18th of January, 1869, threw open the doors to the pub-
lic. The edifice had been transformed into a first-class place of amusement, and the manager had secured an excellent
stock company, of which he was the head. The inauguration ceremonies consisted of an address by Hon. Geo. C.
Bates, which was filled with humorous points, but which contained no very valuable allusions to the dramatic history of
the city. The opening play was Cyril’s Success, rendered by the stock company.

25

26

Adams House I
Life Span: 1858-1871
Location: NE Corner Michigan and Lake Streets
The Adams House, situated on the corner of Lake Street and Michigan Avenue, is another among the many popular
hotels with which our city is favored. It is built of Milwaukee brick, five stories high, and cost about $250,000. It has ac-
commodations for some three hundred guests. The house was opened in 1856. It contains all the modern improve-
ments throughout and is one of the few hotels where it is a pleasure to stop. Pearce & Benjamin are its proprietors

27

McCormick Block I 1860-1871
Photographer: J. W. Taylor
Location: NW corner of Lake Street and Wabash Avenue.

28

Lake Street
Photographer: Copelin and Melander
Location: Lake Street, east of State Street

29

Union Pacific Day 10 May 1869
Photographer: Copelin and Melander
Location: The procession is seen here proceeding east on Lake Street from the corner of Clark Street.
Potter Palmer’s Dry Goods store is the tall white building. The day is in honor of the last spike that was driven in Prom-
ontory Summit, UT that marked the completion of the first transcontinental railroad.

30

Michigan Southern Railroad Passenger Depot
This imposing building was commenced on the 16th of April, 1866, and is now completed. It is of the Franco-Italian
style. The building measures 542 feet by 160 feet; these measurements are exclusive of the outside platforms from
which are under the general roof-the total width being 180 feet. The central or great roof over the tracks is 132 feet
span; the side platforms are 27 feet wide, and the central one 16 feet. There are three tracks for departing trains, and

31

two for trains arriving. The height of the roof is 60 feet from the platforms. The construction of the roof is the Howe
Truss, with auxiliary beams above, to give the regular slope for a slate roof. Running along the centre and between
each truss is a sky-light and tunnel ventilation. On the sides are French roofs above the walls, and large triplet Dormer
windows, the whole giving a clear and cheerful light to the interior. The effect is greatly enhanced by a tasteful and har-
monious coloring of the walls and roof. On the west side of the building are a number of rooms for the accommodations
of travelers waiting for the departure of trains. These rooms connect with the platform within the depot, and front on
Sherman and Griswold streets. Each of the several companies using this depot has its baggage rooms, oil and lamp
rooms, conductors’ room, and large waiting apartments for ladies and gentlemen. There are rooms, also, for second
class passengers, and emigrants, provided with all conveniences. These several rooms are appropriately furnished.
There is also a spacious restaurant and ladies dining room. All the employees of the several roads have their appropri-
ate rooms and offices.
The front of this vast building,-being the part shown in this view,-is in addition to the depot building proper. It is 173 feet
wide by 63 deep, amking the entire length of the edifice 605 feet. It is occupied by the official staff of the several railroad
companies. There is a central entrance hall, handsomely frescoed and finished. On the east side of this hall are the of-
fices of the Michigan Southern and Northern Indiana Railroad Company. These offices number twenty-three rooms,
nine of which are fire and burglar proof. On the west side of the hall are the offices of the Chicago and Rock Island and
Pacific Railroad Company, occupying the same number and style of rooms. The several stories are reached by broad
flights of stairs, and the building is rendered more complete by an ample supply of bathrooms, closets, etc. From the
towers an excellent view of the city can be obtained.

32

The First U.S. Marine Hospital
Parade-ground of Fort Dearborn
October 1871
The first Marine Hospital of Chicago was built upon the old parade-ground of Fort Dearborn reservation, the ground be-
ing set apart for this purpose about the year 1848, the building and enclosure being completed March 15, 1852, and
first occupied in May of that year. Up to the fiscal year ending June 30, 1861, the total amount paid on account of the
hospital was $57,712, and during the war the rule, that none but sailors should be received there, was impinged, for
patriotic purposes, by the admission and treatment of soldiers. The boundaries of the old hospital lot were Michigan
Avenue on the west, the Illinois Central Railroad on the east, a part of the Government reservation on the south, and
the river and dockway on the
north. Work on the building
was delayed in the summer of
1849, owing to the prevalence
of the cholera, but the base-
ment was finished in the fall of
that year. J. D. Webster, the
harbor engineer, was the dis-
bursing agent, and John H.
Kinzie acted as banker for the
Government.

2nd Marine Hospital

33

McVickers Theatre
Life Span: 1857 – 1871
Location: Madison Street, just west of State Street
Architect: Wheeler & Thomas

James H. McVicker built his first theater upon the spot ever since identified
with his name in 1857, at a cost of $85,000. It was opened November 5,
1857, by a stock company in The Honeymoon and The Rough Diamond.
Edwin Booth first appeared here May 31, 1858, playing A New Way to
Pay Old Debts, followed by Richelieu, Brutus and Richard III.
Sothern first appeared herein 1861. J. H. Hackett, 1863. Lotta,
1864. Charles Kean, 1865. Mrs. Siddons, 1869, and other
noted actors of the day at intervals.

34

Brigg’s House
Architect: John M. Van Osdel
Photographer: Copelin and Melander
Location: NE corner of Wells and Randolph Streets
1856-1928
The first Briggs House, erected in 1856 on the northeast corner of Randolph and Wells streets, was five-story Italianate
building designed by John M. Van Osdel. It was one of the many structures in the area that were raised several feet a
few years later along with the grade of the streets. While the Briggs House was not as luxurious as the Sherman House
or the Palmer House, a pre-fire observer could still comment that it “has always been celebrated for the comfort, neat-
ness, quiet, and admirable order of its appointments, and also for the excellence of its table and the general hospitality
of it proprietors.”

Raising of the Briggs House in 1860

35

The Briggs House Is one of our most popular first-class hotels. It is five stories high, with fine accommodations for about
four hundred and fifty guests. The location of this house, corner of Wells, and Randolph streets, is convenient of access
to the business portion of the city, and near the Court House and Chamber of Commerce. The traveler is here provided

36

First State Street Bridge
Photographer: John Carbutt
Location: State Street Looking North
from Lake Street
The State Street Bridge was completed in
1864. The bridge was 184 feet in length and
cost $32,000. It was built of wooden braces
and chords.

37

The original Drake and Farwell House
burned down in September 1870 and was seven stories high. It was rebuilt and completed in 1871 as a five story build-
ing. This building had a steam elevator installed. The building was located at the SE corner of Wabash and Washington
Streets

38
West on Washington St from Dearborn Street in 1867

39

Galena Division Depot of the C&NW Railway
Photographer: C&NW Railway Co.
Location: SW corner Wells and Kinzie Streets Streets
The Galena & Chicago Union Railroad was the first railway station erected in the fall of 1848. The railroad grew so rap-
idly that a new station was built in 1852. A third story was added in 1863.

40

The Chicago Fire of 1871

41

had begun to speak of the danger of a big Sometime in the evening of this date,
fire. Furthur, disturbing reports were coming October 8, 1871, it is memorialized that at
in from the Northwest.. In many places, No. 137 DeKoven Street, seven blocks south
Chicago drummers traveling in their buggies of Harrison Street and a little under a mile
along country roads had seen grass fires west of the Illinois Central station and the
rushin across prairies. In the Michigan and lakefront, the O'Leary cow knocked over the
Wisconsin lumber country, millions of lantern in the barn. O’ Leary blamed it on
blackened stumps on thousands of ruined children playing in the barn. Whatever set it
acres showed where forest fires had burned. off, the fire covered DeKoven street in a few
Here in Chicago, their was a great deal too minutes; the watchmen at City Hall saw
much dry wood. It was masked behind stone Flames in the early dark and immediately
and cast iron along the business streets. It signaled out an engine company. Hundreds
was openly used from floor to roof of most of of citizens also saw the flames and heard the
the houses in the residential districts. roaring, snapping, and cracking that
characterized the fire throughout its course.
Joseph Medill warned in the Tribune Some ran to the police telegraph alarm boxes
that the city had reached a dangerously that the authorities had just recently installed
combustible state with its "everlasting pine at a number of street corners. The citizens
shingles, shams, veneers, stucco and putty." alarm reached the tower too late to correct an
In addition to the danger of pine shingles error the watchmen had made on sporting
catching fire, the tarred roofs invited disaster: the fire when they misjudged its location and
at noon the pitch would bubble in the sun, dispatched a company that had to come more
seemingly just a degree or two under the level than a mile, although others were closer. But
of explosion. Guarding the City, an it made no difference in the end.
undermanned fire department had only
48,000 feet of hose, eighteen ladder trucks At 11:30 P.M. fire leaped the river
and seventeen fire trucks. A considerable and began to devour the South Side. It now
amount of this equipment was damaged and seemed likely the entire city would burn and
out of use waiting repair, and under that refugees fled west. When the fire was finally
handicap the fewer than two hundred fire- out, four square miles had been turned into
men turned out for thirty alarms in the first charred rubble. 100,000 people were
week of October, which ended with a fifteen homeless. Commercial structures including
hour battle an the West Side, where all the hotels, theaters, and commercial
$750,000 worth of property burned in a fire structures of the business district, totaling
that consumed several warehouses. On the 18,000 building were destroyed. 250 bodies
following morning, Sunday, October 8, the were found in the ruins, about the same
watchmen in the Court House Tower knew number died without a trace, vaporized at
that the men of the department had almost inner parts of the fire. The board of trade
exhausted their strength, without making the estimated property loss at $200,000,000 in
city any less likely to crack into flame. those days an almost inconceivable amount of
money, which was not all covered by the
insurance companies. Some insurance

42

Chicago in 1868

companies rather than pay, went out of in man’s history, the fire did not burn out the
business. Half of Chicago was gone. citizen’s quest for their city. They cried out
Although this was a calamity without parallel “Chicago Will Rise Again!” And rise it did.

43

Origin of Fire—137 De Koven St.
O’Leary’s Barn

This is a photograph of the O’Leary Home, just after the fire. The barn, where it all started was gone,
but the O’Leary cottage on De Koven Street remained.

44

Corner of Dearborn and Monroe

45

46
The First National Bank before and after the 1871 fire.

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