Grand Tour of Italy. ROAD TRIPS.

walls in the shadow of the Porta Soprana URBAN BEACH ESCAPE
gate (built in 1155).
When the sun is shining, do as the
Palazzo Spinola & ART GALLERY Genovese do and decamp for a passeg-
Galleria Nazionale giata along the oceanside promenade,
See p22 Corso Italia, which begins around
3km east of the city centre. This broad
Porto Antico NEIGHBOURHOOD 2.5km-long pavement lined with Liberty
See p48 villas leads to Boccadasse, a once
separate fishing village that appears like
Galata Museo del Mare MUSEUM a sawn-off chunk of Cinque Terre. Its
pebble beach is a perfect gelato-licking
(www.galatamuseodelmare.it; Calata de Mari 1; ad- location by day and its gaggle of small
mission €11; h10am-7.30pm, closed Mon Nov-Feb) bars serve up spritzes to happy crowds
Genoa was rivalled only by Barcelona and on summer evenings.
Venice as a medieval and Renaissance mar-
itime power; not surprisingly, its ‘museum of
the sea’ is one of its most relevant and inter-
esting. High-tech exhibits trace the history of
seafaring, from its reign as Europe’s greatest
dockyard to the ages of sail and steam. to Genoese violinist Niccolò Paganini (1782–
1849). Performances are held in the Teatro
T Tours Carlo Felice (p49).

Information and tickets for boat trips around 4 Sleeping
the port and to destinations further afield
are available from the ticket booths (Ponte Palazzo Cambiaso APARTMENT € Turin & Genoa GENOA
Spinola; h9.30am-6.30pm Sep-Jun, 9am-8pm Jul (My Place; %010 856 61 88; www.palazzocambiaso.
& Aug) at Porto Antico. The tourist office has it; Via al Ponte Calvi 6; d €110, apt €140-170) A real
information on walking tours and guided attention to design is evident in these rooms
walks of the historic centre, including one and apartments, set on the upper floor of a
exploring its traditional shops. stately palazzo. The larger ones (sleeping up
to six) come with full marble kitchens, long
dining tables and laundries, but even the
Whale Watch Liguria WHALE WATCHING cheapest double is spacious, soothing and

(www.whalewatchliguria.it; tickets €33; h1.30pm has the signature Frette linen.
Sat Apr-Oct) These five-hour spring and sum-
mer tours are run in consultation with the
WWF and include fascinating background Hotel Cristoforo Colombo HOTEL €
(%010 251 36 43; www.hotelcolombo.it; Via di
on the world’s largest mammals provided by Porta Soprana 27; s/d €80/100; W) A totally
an on-board biologist.
charming family-run hotel ideally situated
near Cattedrale di San Lorenzo, Cristoforo
Genova City Sightseeing BUS TOUR

(www.genova.city-sightseeing.it; 2-day tickets €15) Colombo has 18 colour-accented rooms with
Hop-on, hop-off open-topped bus tours, with
headphone commentary in five languages. eclectic furnishings. Breakfast is served on
an inviting 6th-floor rooftop terrace.
Tickets are sold on the bus and stops are
located in Piazza de Ferrari and Via XX Set- Le Nuvole BOUTIQUE HOTEL €€
(%010 251 00 18; www.hotellenuvole.it; Piazza
tembre. Runs March through November. delle Vigne 6; d €130; aiW) This bright

z Festivals & Events newcomer full of smart modern furniture
and slick bathrooms makes the most of the
Slow Fish FOOD original architecture of an ancient palazzo,

(slowfish.slowfood.it) S Every odd-numbered with lofty ceilings, lovingly restored plaster
year in early May, this festival celebrates sea-
food with a fish market and tastings. Affili- mouldings and beautiful tilework. Owners
are hands-on and helpful.
ated with the Slow Food Movement, it runs
free workshops focusing on water pollution,
good fishing practices and aquaculture. Quarto Piano B&B €€
(%348 7426779; www.quarto-piano.it; Piazza Pel-
licceria 2/4; d/ste €130/165; aW) Four elegant,
Premio Paganini MUSIC modern rooms share the 4th floor, complete

(www.premiopaganini.it; hSep) This interna- with a terrace for breakfast or hot-tub dip.
tional violin competition is held in homage

99

Genoa A B C D E
Piazza E
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ABCD

Locanda di Palazzo Cicala BOUTIQUE HOTEL €€ Philippe Starck. Great stuff, but don’t ex-
(%010 251 88 24; www.palazzocicala.it; Piazza pect any TLC and make sure you get a firm
San Lorenzo 16; d/ste €125/170; aiW) In confirmation of where exactly you’ll sleep,
stark contrast to its grand 18th-century as guests are often palmed out to adequate
stucco exterior, the six minimalist rooms but less appealing apartments in the sur-
include pieces by Jasper Morrison and rounding streets.
100

e# 0 200 m Genoa
0 0.1 miles
E F æ Sights
Funicular nini 1 1 Casa della Famiglia Colombo .............. F6
2 Cattedrale di San Lorenzo ................... E5
i Corso Firenze 2 3 Galata Museo del Mare ........................B2
4 Galleria Nazionale ................................ D4
h 5 Musei di Strada Nuova ......................... E3
6 Old City.................................................. D4
ca Rig Corso Paga 7 Palazzo della Borsa .............................. F5
Carbonara 8 Palazzo Ducale ...................................... E5
Zec S al Sup 9 Palazzo Reale ........................................C2
Piazza Via Caffaro Palazzo Spinola............................. (see 4)
Golfredo
Villa 10 Piazza de Ferrari ................................... F5
11 Porto Antico.......................................... C4

Sal Ø Activities, Courses & Tours
12 Whale Watch Liguria ........................... C4
S

w Galleria G Garibaldi ¤# Gero ÿ Sleeping
13 Hotel Cristoforo Colombo ...................E6
lamu Salita Sant'Anna 3 14 Le Nuvole ...............................................E4
CaPsoterltleeltltoo 15 Locanda di Palazzo Cicala ...................D5
16 Palazzo Cambiaso ................................D3
Lift 17 Quarto Piano .........................................D3 Turin & Genoa GENOA
ÿ# Via della Maddalen#ïâ#a 353þ#31Vi#þa G¤#aú#2r1ibalPdiiFaPozPinzaoatzwraztdnaeeeldllloeel
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27 18 Il Marin....................................................C5
32 ü# Via Luccoli wVia XXV Aprileú# 22 4 19 Le Dolcezze Salate Di Angelo.............. F4
ÿ# 14 #þ Vic della w 5 20 Officina 34..............................................E6
Via di Casana Roma 21 Pasticceria Profumo............................. F3
Soziglia 19 ú# Via Caba 22 Trattoria Da Maria ................................ F4
23 Trattoria Rosmarino ............................. E5
Vic 28 û# 25 Via
Indoratoû#ri û Drinking & Nightlife
w 24 Café degli Specchi ................................ E6
SanDa ÿ# 25 Cambi Cafe ............................................ E5
Lorenzo .# 26 Enoteca Pesce...................................... D4
27 Fratelli Klainguti ....................................E4
2 ú# 23 ý# 29 PiccaPpiiaeztzraa 28 Les Rouges ............................................E4
Ü# E Vernazza
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Piazza de ¡# 29 Teatro Carlo Felice ............................... F5
Piazza 8 Ferrari 30 Teatro della Tosse ................................ E6
Giacomo â# æ# 10 Via
XX Settembre þ Shopping
Matteotti â# 7 31 Butteghetta Magica di Tinello
Via di ÿ#Por1t3a So ò# Daniela ................................................E4
PolVliaaiuSolailita ü# Via Dante prana Stazione 32 Pietro Romanengo fu Stefano ............E4
24 Brignole 33 Via Garibaldi 12......................................E3

(1km)

3ý#0ViPRc ieaenzlazFtaioco Piazza 6
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20 ú# AMT w
information
›# office from hothouses on city hillsides), as well as
techniques honed through generations.
EF

5 ¡# Trattoria Da Maria TRATTORIA €
Eating (%010 58 10 80; Vico Testadoro 14r; meals €15;
h11.45am-3pm Mon-Sat, 7-9.30pm Thu & Fri) Brace
It would be criminal to come to Genoa and yourself for lunchtime mayhem. This is a
not try pesto genovese. The city’s famous totally authentic, if well touristed, workers’
basil pesto really does taste, and look, better trattoria and there’s much squeezing into tiny
here than anywhere else, a result of the basil tables, shouted orders and a fast and furious
that’s used (young plants are plucked daily 101

ROSTISLAV GLINSKY / SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Teatro Carlo Felice

succession of plates plonked on tables. A daily Officina 34 MODERN ITALIAN €€
hand-scrawled menu is a roll call of elemental (%010 302 71 84; www.officina34.it; Via di Ravec-
favourites that keep patrons full and happy, ca 34; meals €30) Genoa is a long way from
along with the jugs of ridiculously cheap wine. Berlin or Brooklyn, but that urban aesthetic
is in full force at Officina 34. Subway tile
Le Dolcezze Salate Di Angelo BAKERY € jokes aside, it’s a beautifully fitted-out space
(Via XXV Aprile 22; focaccias from €1.50; h8am-
3.30pm Tue-Sun) Every Genovese has a in a pretty location, and has a simple, gen-
tly innovative menu that shows the kitchen
favourite focaccia spot, but this one gets rec- cares about quality ingredients. A young,
ommended more than most. Pungent with
Ligurian olive oil and spiked with flecks of good-looking crowd comes for raw plates
and aperitivo and often ends up staying
sea salt, the basic model is moreish to a fault. late.

Pasticceria Profumo PASTRIES € Il Marin SEAFOOD €€€
(www.villa1827.it; Via del Portello 2; h9am-1pm &
3.30-7.30pm Tue-Sat) A traditional pasticceria (Eataly Genova; %010 869 87 22; www.eataly.
net; Porto Antico; meals €50; hnoon-3pm &
and chocolate shop that follows the seasons – 7-10.30pm) Eating by the water often means a
chocolate, chestnuts and cream dominate
in winter, fresh stone fruit and berries in compromise in quality, but Eataly’s 3rd-floor
fine-dining space delivers both panoramic
summer – this is also one of Genoa’s most port views and Genoa’s most innovative
pretty, with bright, stylish packaging that
makes for fantastic take-home gifts. seafood menu. Rustic wooden tables, Renzo
Piano–blessed furniture and an open kitch-
en make for an easy, relaxed glamour, while
Trattoria Rosmarino TRATTORIA €€ dishes use unusual Mediterranean-sourced
(%010 251 04 75; www.trattoriarosmarino.it; Salita
del Fondaco 30; meals €30; hnoon-3pm & 7-11pm produce and look gorgeous on the plate.
This is the destination restaurant the city
Mon-Sat) Rosmarino cooks up the stand- has long needed. Book ahead.
ard local specialities, yes, but the straight-
forwardly priced menu has an elegance and
vibrancy that set it apart. With two nightly 6 Drinking & Nightlife
sittings, there’s always a nice buzz (though
there’s also enough nooks and crannies that The revamped Porto Antico has an early
a romantic night for two isn’t out of the night-time scene, but never underestimate
question). Call ahead for an evening table. the lure of the caruggi later on.

102

Les Rouges COCKTAIL BAR 7 Shopping

(%010 246 49 56; www.lesrouges.it; Piazza Cam- Heading southwest, elegant Via Roma, adja-
petto 8a, 1st floor; h5.30-11pm Tue-Thu & Sun, to cent to the glass-covered Galleria Mazzini,
12.30am Fri & Sat) One of Genoa’s surfeit of is Genoa’s designer shopping street. It links
crumbling palazzi is being put to excel- Piazza Corvetto with Piazza de Ferrari. The
lent use in this atmospheric cocktail bar. old city’s lanes are full of all kinds of tradi-
Three bearded, vest-wearing, red-headed tional shops and vintage boutiques.
brothers – the ‘rouges’ of the name – man
the floor and shake up the city’s only new-
wave cocktails, using top-shelf ingredients Via Garibaldi 12 HOMEWARES, DESIGN

and herbal or floral flavours like camomile (%010 253 03 65; www.viagaribaldi12.com; Via Gari-
baldi 12; h10am-2pm & 3.30-7pm Tue-Sat) Even if
and Kaffir lime. you’re not in the market for designer home-
wares, it’s worth trotting up the noble stairs
Cambi Cafe BAR here just to be reminded how splendid a city
See p49
Genoa can be. There’s an incredibly canny
collection of contemporary furniture and
Enoteca Pesce WINE BAR objects on display, but it’s the shop’s original

(Via Sottoripa; h8.30am-7.30pm Mon-Sat) Tiny architecture – an aesthetic onslaught of col-
wine bars dot Genoa’s old city, although this
one, under the arches by the port, is particu- umns, arched windows and baroque painted
ceilings – that will make your jaw drop.
larly characteristic, full of colourful locals
and serious about its product. Glasses hover
around the €2 mark, so it’s a good place to ​Butteghetta Magica di

get to know Liguria’s unusual grapes. Tinello Daniela HOMEWARES, NATIVITY SCENES Turin & Genoa GENOA

(%010 247 42 25; Via della Maddalena 2; h3-7pm
Mon, 10am-1pm & 3-7pm Tue-Sat) Stock your
Fratelli Klainguti CAFE kitchen from a selection of brightly glazed

(Via di Soziglia; h8am-8pm) Predating cap- traditional ceramics and beautiful contem-
puccinos, Klainguti opened in 1828 and
its mitteleuropean charms, and presuma- porary kitchenware. This is also the place to
buy a corzetti, a carved wooden stamp that
bly its strudel and pastries, had Verdi and is used to make a local pasta speciality of the
Garibaldi coming back for more. Waiters
in bow ties toil under a chandelier and the same name. If you’re here during the Christ-
mas season, the magica of the title comes
decor is a fabulous, if tatty, mid-century his- into play with spectacular nativity scenes.
torical pastiche.

Café degli Specchi CAFE Pietro Romanengo fu Stefano CHOCOLATES
See p22
(Via Salita Pollaiuoli 43r; h7am-9pm Mon-Sat)
A bit of Turin disconnected and relocated 88 Information
150km to the south, this tiled art-deco show-
piece was (and is) a favourite hang-out of Police Station (% 010 5 36 61; Via Armando
Genoa’s intellectuals. You can sink your es- Diaz 2)
presso at street level or disappear upstairs San Martino Hospital (% 010 55 51; Largo
amid the velvet seats and mirrors for coffee, Rosanna Benci 10)
cake and an aperitivo buffet. Tourist Office (% 010 557 29 03; www.visit
genoa.it; Via Garibaldi 12r; h9am-5.30pm, to
3 Entertainment 8pm in summer)

At the western end of the Porto Antico, 88 Getting Around
the Magazzini del Cotone (one-time cotton
warehouses) have been converted into an PUBLIC TRANSPORT
entertainment area with a multiplex cinema, AMT operates buses throughout the city and
games arcade and shops. there is an AMT information office (Via d’An-
nunzio 8; h7.15am-6pm Mon-Fri, 7am-7pm Sat
Teatro Carlo Felice THEATRE & Sun) at the bus terminal. Bus line 383 links
See p49 Stazione Brignole with Piazza de Ferrari and
Stazione Principe. A ticket valid for 90 minutes
Teatro della Tosse THEATRE costs €1.50. Tickets can be used on main-line
trains within the city limits, as well as on the
(www.teatrodellatosse.it; Piazza Renato Negri 4) metro (www.genovametro.com).
Casanova trod the boards of the city’s oldest
theatre, which dates from 1702. 103

# Italy’s most misunderstood
city is also one of its most
Naples & intriguing – an exhilarating
Around mess of bombastic baroque
interiors, cocky baristas and
subterranean ruins.

NAPLES 1 Sights

POP 989,110 Complesso Monumentale

According to legend, traders from Rhodes di Santa Chiara BASILICA, MONASTERY
established the city on the island of Megaris
in about 680 BC. Originally called Parthe- (%081 551 66 73; www.monasterodisantachiara.
nope, it was eventually incorporated into a eu; Via Santa Chiara 49c; basilica free, Complesso
new city, Neapolis, founded by Greeks from Monumentale adult/reduced €6/4.50; hbasilica
Cumae in 474 BC. However, within 150 years 7.30am-1pm & 4.30-8pm, Complesso Monumen-
it was in Roman hands, becoming some- tale 9.30am-5.30pm Mon-Sat, 10am-2.30pm Sun;
thing of a VIP resort favoured by emperors mDante) Vast and cleverly deceptive, the
Pompey, Caesar and Tiberius. mighty Basilica di Santa Chiara stands at
the heart of this tranquil monastery complex.
After the fall of the Roman Empire, Na- The church was severely damaged in WWII:
ples passed through the hands of the Byzan- what you see today is a 20th-century recre-
tines, the Normans, the German Swabians, ation of Gagliardo Primario’s 14th-century
the Angevins and the Spanish Bourbons. original. Adjoining it are the basilica’s
Aside from a Napoleonic interlude, the Bour- cloisters, adorned with brightly coloured
bons remained until they were unseated by 17th-century majolica tiles and frescoes.
Garibaldi and the Kingdom of Italy in 1860.
Naples was heavily bombed in WWII, Cappella Sansevero CHAPEL
and the effects can still be seen on many
monuments around the city. Since the war, (%081 551 84 70; www.museosansevero.
Campania’s capital has continued to suffer. it; Via Francesco de Sanctis 19; adult/reduced
Endemic corruption and the re-emergence of €7/5; h9.30am-6.30pm Mon & Wed-Sat, to
the Camorra have plagued much of the city’s 2pm Sun; mDante) It’s in this Masonic-
postwar resurrection, reaching a nadir in the inspired baroque chapel that you’ll find Gi-
years following a severe earthquake in 1980. useppe Sanmartino’s incredible sculpture,
Cristo velato (Veiled Christ), its marble veil
Despite these tribulations, the winds so realistic that it’s tempting to lift it and view
of change are blowing. New ideas and in- Christ underneath. It’s one of several artistic
novation are driving a growing number wonders that include Francesco Queirolo’s
of youth-run enterprises and businesses, sculpture Disinganno (Disillusion), Antonio
while the city’s famous art-themed metro Corradini’s Pudicizia (Modesty) and colour-
launched another two starchitect-designed ful frescoes by Francesco Maria Russo, the
stations in 2015. latter untouched since their creation in 1749.

104

Duomo CATHEDRAL

(%081 44 90 65; Via Duomo 149; baptistry €1.50;
hcathedral 8.30am-1.30pm & 2.30-8pm Mon-
Sat, 8.30am-1.30pm & 4.30-7.30pm Sun, bap-
tistry 8.30am-1pm Mon-Sat, 8.30am-12.30pm &
5-6.30pm Sun;gC55 to Via Duomo) Whether
you go for Giovanni Lanfranco’s fresco in
the Cappella di San Gennaro (Chapel of
St Janarius), the 4th-century mosaics in the
baptistry, or the thrice-annual miracle of
San Gennaro, do not miss Naples’ cathedral.

Museo Archeologico Nazionale MUSEUM
See p28

Certosa e Museo

di San Martino MONASTERY, MUSEUM

(%081 229 45 68; www.polomusealenapoli.benicul
turali.it; Largo San Martino 5; adult/reduced €6/3;
h8.30am-7.30pm Thu-Tue; mVanvitelli, jMon-
tesanto to Morghen) The high point (quite
literally) of the Neapolitan baroque, this
charterhouse-turned-museum was founded Complesso Monumentale di Santa Chiara
as a Carthusian monastery in the 14th centu-
PERSEOMEDUSA / SHUTTERSTOCK ©

ry. Centred on one of the most beautiful clois- Elisabetta Farnese – was moved here in 1759
ters in Italy, it has been decorated, adorned and ranges from exquisite 12th-century
and altered over the centuries by some of altarpieces to works by Botticelli, Caravag-
Italy’s finest talent, most importantly Gio- gio, Titian and Andy Warhol.
vanni Antonio Dosio in the 16th century and
baroque master Cosimo Fanzago a century T Tours
later. Nowadays, it’s a superb repository of
Neapolitan artistry. Tunnel Borbonico HISTORIC SITE

(%081 764 58 08, 366 2484151; www.tunnelbor
bonico.info; Vico del Grottone 4; 75min standard
Palazzo Reale di Capodimonte MUSEUM tours adult/reduced €10/5; hstandard tours
(%081 749 91 11; www.polomusealenapoli.beni 10am, noon, 3.30pm & 5.30pm Fri-Sun; gR2 to
culturali.it; Via Miano 2; adult/reduced €7.50/3.75; Via San Carlo) Traverse five centuries along
h8.30am-7.30pm Thu-Tue; gR4, 178 to Via Naples’ engrossing Bourbon Tunnel. Con-
Capodimonte) Originally designed as a hunt- ceived by Ferdinand II in 1853 to link the
ing lodge for Charles VII of Bourbon, this Palazzo Reale to the barracks and the sea,
monumental palace was begun in 1738 and the never-completed escape route is part
took more than a century to complete. It’s of the 17th-century Carmignano Aqueduct
now home to the Museo Nazionale di Ca- system, itself incorporating 16th-century
podimonte, southern Italy’s largest and cisterns. An air-raid shelter and military
richest art gallery. Its vast collection – much hospital during WWII, this underground
of which Charles inherited from his mother,

BEFORE YOU EXPLORE

If you’re planning to blitz the sights, the Campania Artecard (%800 60 06 01; www.
campaniartecard.it) is an excellent investment. A cumulative ticket that covers museum
admission and transport, it comes in various forms. The Naples three-day ticket (adult/
reduced €21/12) gives free admission to three participating sites, a 50% discount on oth-
ers and free use of public transport in the city. Other handy options include a seven-day
‘Tutta la Regione’ ticket (€34), which offers free admission to five sites and discounted
admission to others in areas as far afield as Caserta, Ravello (Amalfi Coast) and Paestum.
The latter does not cover transport. Cards can be purchased online, at the dedicated
Artecard booth inside the tourist office at Stazione Centrale, or at participating sites and
museums.

105

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0 0.25 miles
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7777777Vittoria
Via Monte Bay of Naples 5
C hiadtiamDioone2ÿ#1 #ú (NGaoplfoolid)i
Porto
12 di Santa

777A B C D Lucia

777labyrinth rekindles the past with evoca- to explore Naples’ ancient labyrinth of aque-
ducts, passages and cisterns.
tive wartime artefacts. The standard tour
doesn’t require prebooking, though the Kayak Napoli KAYAKING
Adventure Tour (80 minutes; adult/reduced
€15/10) and adults-only Speleo Tour (2½ (%331 9874271; www.kayaknapoli.com; tours €20-
hours; €30) do. 30; g140 to Via Posillipo) S Popular tours
along the Neapolitan coastline, gliding past
often-inaccessible ruins, neoclassical villas
Napoli Sotterranea ARCHAEOLOGICAL SITE

(Underground Naples; %081 29 69 44; www.napoli and luscious gardens, as well as into secret
sotterranea.org; Piazza San Gaetano 68; adult/ sea grottoes. Tours cater to rookie and ex-
reduced €10/8; hEnglish tours 10am, noon, 2pm, perienced paddlers, with day and night op-
4pm & 6pm; gC55 to Via Duomo) This evocative tions. Meet at Via Posillipo 68 (Baia delle
guided tour leads you 40m below street level Rocce Verdi) in the Posillipo neighbourhood.

106

Naples 17 L'Ebbrezza di Noè ..................................A4
18 Pintauro ..................................................B4
æ Sights 19 Pizzeria Gino Sorbillo.............................C2
1 Cappella Sansevero .............................. C2 20 Pizzeria Starita ....................................... B1
2 Certosa e Museo di San Martino .......... A3 21 Ristorantino dell'Avvocato ....................B5
3 Complesso Monumentale di û Drinking & Nightlife
Santa Chiara ....................................... B2 22 Caffè Gambrinus ....................................B4
4 Duomo .....................................................C1 23 Enoteca Belledonne ...............................A4
5 Museo Archeologico Nazionale .............B1 24 Galleria 19 ...............................................B2
6 Napoli Sotterranea ................................ C2 25 Spazio Nea..............................................B2
7 Palazzo Reale......................................... B4 ý Entertainment
26 Box Office ...............................................B4
Ø Activities, Courses & Tours 27 Centro di Musica Antica Pietà
8 Tunnel Borbonico .................................. A5
de' Turchini ..........................................A4
ÿ Sleeping 28 Lanificio 25 ............................................. D1
9 B&B Cappella Vecchia .......................... A4 29 Teatro San Carlo ....................................B4
10 Cerasiello B&B ........................................C1 þ Shopping
11 Decumani Hotel de Charme ................. C2 30 E. Marinella .............................................A5
12 Grand Hotel Vesuvio ............................. B5 31 La Scarabattola ......................................C2
13 Hotel Piazza Bellini ................................ B2 32 Tramontano............................................A4
14 La Ciliegina Lifestyle Hotel.................... B4
15 Nardones 48 .......................................... A4

ú Eating
16 La Taverna di Santa Chiara................... B2

Tours subject to weather and should be terrace and an ethno-chic look melding Ne-
booked ahead. apolitan art with North African furnishings.
The stylish kitchen offers a fabulous view of
z Festivals & Events the Certosa di San Martino, a view shared by N a ple s & A ro u n d N aples
all rooms (or their bathroom) except Fuoco
Festa di San Gennaro RELIGIOUS (Fire), which looks out at a church cupola.

The faithful flock to the Duomo to witness
the miraculous liquefaction of San Genna-
ro’s blood on the Saturday before the first Nardones 48 APARTMENT €
(%338 8818998; www.nardones48.it; Via Nardones
Sunday in May. Repeat performances take 48; small apt €60-72, large apt €80-120; aW; gR2
place on 19 September and 16 December.
to Via San Carlo) White-on-white Nardones 48
serves up seven smart mini-apartments in a
Maggio dei Monumenti CULTURAL historic Quartieri Spagnoli building. The five

(hMay) A month-long cultural feast, with largest apartments, each with mezzanine bed-
concerts, performances, exhibitions, guided
tours and other events across Naples. room, accommodate up to four; the two small-
est, each with a sofa bed, accommodate up
Wine & The City WINE to two. Three apartments boast a panoramic

(www.wineandthecity.it; hMay) A two-week cele- terrace, and all have modern kitchenette, flat-
bration of regional vino, with free wine tast-
ings and cultural events in palaces, museums, screen TV and contemporary bathroom with
spacious shower.
boutiques and eateries throughout the city.
B&B Cappella Vecchia B&B €
4 Sleeping (%081 240 51 17; www.cappellavecchia11.it; Vico
Santa Maria a Cappella Vecchia 11; s €50-80, d
For maximum atmosphere, consider the cen- €75-110, tr €90-140; aiW; gC24 to Piazza dei
tro storico (historic centre), where you’ll have Martiri) Run by a super-helpful young cou-
many of the city’s sights on your doorstep. ple, this B&B is a first-rate choice in the

Cerasiello B&B B&B € smart, fashionable Chiaia district. Rooms
(%338 9264453, 081 033 09 77; www.cerasiello.it; are simple and upbeat, with funky bath-
Via Supportico Lopez 20; s €40-60, d €55-80, tr €70- rooms, vibrant colours, and Neapolitan
95, q €85-105; aW; mPiazza Cavour, Museo) This themes. There’s a spacious communal area
gorgeous B&B consists of four rooms with for breakfast, and free internet available
private bathroom, an enchanting communal 24/7. Check the website for special offers. 107

N a ple s & A ro u n d N aApPlLeEsS CAMPI FLEGREI

Stretching west of Posillipo Hill to the Tyrrhenian Sea, the Campi Flegrei (Phlegraean,
or ‘Fiery’, Fields) is home to some of Campania’s most remarkable – and overlooked –
Graeco-Roman ruins. Gateway to the area is the port town of Pozzuoli. Established by
the Greeks around 530 BC, its most famous resident is the Anfiteatro Flavio (%848
80 02 88; Via Nicola Terracciano 75; adult/reduced €4/2; h9am-1hr before sunset Wed-Mon;
mPozzuoli, dCumana to Pozzuoli), Italy’s third-largest ancient Roman amphitheatre.

A further 6km west, Baia was once a glamorous Roman holiday resort frequented by
sun-seeking emperors. Fragments of this opulence linger among the 1st-century ruins of
the Parco Archeologico di Baia (%081 868 75 92; www.coopculture.it; Via Sella di Baia;
adult/reduced €4/2 Sat & Sun, Tue-Fri free; hhours vary; gEAV to Baia, dCumana to Fusaro),
its mosaics, stuccoed balneum (bathroom) and imposing Tempio di Mercurio once part
of a sprawling palace and spa complex. While the ruins are free on weekdays, weekend
visitors need to purchase their tickets at the fascinating Museo Archeologico dei
Campi Flegrei (Archaeological Museum of the Campi Flegrei; %081 523 37 97; cir.campania.
beniculturali.it/museoarcheologicocampiflegrei; Via Castello 39; admission Sat & Sun €4, Tue-Fri
free; h9am-2pm Tue-Sun, last entry 1pm; gEAV to Baia), a further 2km south along the coast.

Yet another 2km south, in the sleepy town of Bacoli, lurks the magical Piscina Mi-
rabilis (Marvellous Pool; %333 6853278; Via Piscina Mirabilis; donation appreciated; hhours
vary, closed Mon; dCumana to Fusaro, then EAV bus to Bacoli), the world’s largest Roman
cistern. You’ll need to call the custodian to access the site, but it’s well worth the effort.
Bathed in an eerie light and featuring 48 soaring pillars and a barrel-vaulted ceiling, the
so-called ‘Marvellous Pool’ is more subterranean cathedral than giant water tank. While
entrance is free, show your manners by offering the custodian a €2 or €3 tip.

Both the Ferrovia Cumana and Naples’ metro line 2 serve Pozzuoli, and the town is
also connected to Ischia and Procida by frequent car and passenger ferries. To reach
Baia, take the Ferrovia Cumana train to Fusaro station, walk 150m north, turning right
into Via Carlo Vanvitelli (which eventually becomes Via Bellavista). The ruins are 750m to
the east. To reach Bacoli, catch a Bacoli-bound EAV Bus from Fusaro.

Unfortunately, the Campi Flegrei’s second-rate infrastructure and unreliable public
transport, plus the fickle opening times of its sites, make pretrip planning a good idea.
Contact the tourist office (%081 526 14 81; www.infocampiflegrei.it; Largo Matteotti 1a;
h9am-3pm Mon-Fri; mPozzuoli, dCumana to Pozzuoli) in Pozzuoli for updated information
on the area’s sights and opening times, or consider exploring the area with popular local
tour outfit Yellow Sudmarine (p113).

Hotel Piazza Bellini BOUTIQUE HOTEL €€ aiW; mUniversità) This classic boutique
(%081 45 17 32; www.hotelpiazzabellini.com; Via hotel occupies the former palazzo of Car-
Santa Maria di Costantinopoli 101; d from €100; dinal Sisto Riario Sforza, the last bishop
aiW; mDante) Only steps from buzzing of the Bourbon kingdom. Simple, stylish
Piazza Bellini, this sharp, contemporary rooms feature high ceilings, parquet floors,
hotel occupies a 16th-century palazzo, its 19th-century furniture, and modern bath-
mint white spaces spiked with original rooms with spacious showers. Deluxe rooms
majolica tiles and the work of emerging crank up la dolce vita with personal hot
artists. Rooms offer pared-back cool, with tubs. The pièce de résistance, however, is
designer fittings, chic bathrooms and mir- the property’s breathtaking baroque salon.
ror frames drawn straight onto the wall.
Rooms on the 5th and 6th floors have pan- La Ciliegina Lifestyle

oramic terraces. Hotel BOUTIQUE HOTEL €€
(%081 1971 8800; www.cilieginahotel.it; Via PE
Imbriani 30; d €150-250, junior ste €200-350;
Decumani Hotel de aiW; mMunicipio) An easy walk from

Charme BOUTIQUE HOTEL €€
(%081 551 81 88; www.decumani.it; Via San Gio-
vanni Maggiore Pignatelli 15; s €99-124, d €99-164; the hydrofoil terminal, this chic, contem-
porary slumber spot is a hit with fashion-

108

conscious urbanites. Spacious white rooms La Taverna di Santa Chiara NEAPOLITAN €€
are splashed with blue and red accents, each (%339 8150346; Via Santa Chiara 6; meals €25;
with a top-of-the-range Hästens bed, flat- h12.30-3pm & 7-11pm Wed-Mon; W; mDante)
screen TV and marble-clad bathroom with Gragnano pasta, Agerola pork, Benevento
water-jet Jacuzzi shower (one junior suite latte nobile: this intimate, two-level eatery
has a Jacuzzi tub). is healthily obsessed with small, local pro-
ducers and Slow Food ingredients. The re-
Grand Hotel Vesuvio HOTEL €€€ sult is a beautiful, seasonal journey across
(%081 764 00 44; www.vesuvio.it; Via Partenope Campania. For an inspiring overview, order
45; s/d €280/310; aiW; g128 to Via Santa the antipasto misto (mixed antipasto), then
Lucia) Known for hosting legends – past tuck into lesser-known classics like zuppa
guests include Rita Hayworth and Hum- di soffritto (spicy meat stew) with a glass of
phrey Bogart – this five-star heavyweight is smooth house vino.
a decadent melange of dripping chandeliers,
period antiques and opulent rooms. Count
your lucky stars while drinking a martini at Eccellenze Campane NEAPOLITAN €€
(%081 20 36 57; www.eccellenzecampane.it; Via
the rooftop restaurant. Benedetto Brin 49; pizza from €6, meals €30;

5 Eating h7am-11pm Sun-Fri, to midnight Sat; g116, 192,
460, 472, 475) This is Naples’ answer to Turin-
based food emporium Eataly: an impressive,
Pizzeria Gino Sorbillo PIZZA € contemporary showcase for top-notch Cam-
(%081 44 66 43; www.accademiadellapizza.it;
Via dei Tribunali 32; pizzas from €3.30; hnoon- panian comestibles. The sprawling space is
divided into various dining and shopping
3.30pm & 7pm-1am Mon-Sat; mDante) Day in, sections, offering everything from beauti-
day out, this cult-status pizzeria is besieged
by hungry hordes. While debate may rage fully charred pizzas and light fritture (fried
snacks) to finer-dining seafood, coveted Sal
over whether Gino Sorbillo’s pizzas are the Da Riso pastries, craft beers and no short-
best in town, there’s no doubt that his giant,
wood-fired discs – made using organic flour age of take-home pantry treats. A must for
gastronomes. Naples & Around NAPLES
and tomatoes – will have you licking finger
tips and whiskers. Head in super early or
prepare to queue. L’Ebbrezza di Noè NEAPOLITAN €€
(%081 40 01 04; www.lebbrezzadinoe.com; Vico
Vetriera 9; meals €37; h8.30pm-midnight Tue-Sun;
Pintauro PASTRIES € mPiazza Amedeo) A wine shop by day, ‘Noah’s
(%348 7781645; Via Toledo 275; sfogliatelle €2;
h9am-8pm Mon-Sat, 9.30am-2pm Sun, closed Drunkenness’ transforms into an intimate
mid-Jul–early Sep; gR2 to Via San Carlo, mMu- culinary hotspot by night. Slip inside for
nicipio) Of Neapolitan dolci (sweets), the vino and conversation at the bar, or settle
cream of the crop is the sfogliatella, a shell into one of the bottle-lined dining rooms for
of flaky pastry stuffed with creamy, scented seductive, market-driven dishes like house
ricotta. This local institution has been sell- special paccheri fritti (fried pasta stuffed
ing sfogliatelle since the early 1800s, when with aubergine and served with fresh basil
its founder supposedly brought them to Na- and a rich tomato sauce).
ples from their culinary birthplace on the
Amalfi Coast. Ristorantino dell’Avvocato NEAPOLITAN €€
(%081 032 00 47; www.ilristorantinodellavvocato.
Pizzeria Starita PIZZA € it; Via Santa Lucia 115-117; meals €40; hnoon-3pm
(%081 557 36 82; Via Materdei 28; pizzas from & 7.30-11pm, lunch only Mon & Sun; W; g128 to
€3.50; hnoon-4pm & 7pm-midnight Mon-Sat, Via Santa Lucia) This elegant yet welcoming
7pm-midnight Sun; mMaterdei) The giant fork restaurant has quickly won the respect of
and ladle hanging on the wall at this his- Neapolitan gastronomes. Apple of their eye
toric pizzeria were used by Sophia Loren in is affable lawyer turned head chef Raffaele
L’Oro di Napoli, and the kitchen made the Cardillo, whose passion for Campania’s culi-
pizze fritte sold by the actress in the film. nary heritage merges with a knack for sub-
While the 60-plus pizza varieties include tle, refreshing twists – think gnocchi with
a tasty fiorilli e zucchine (courgette, cour- fresh mussels, clams, crumbed pistachio,
gette flowers and provola), our allegiance lemon, ginger and garlic.
remains to its classic marinara.

109

6 Drinking & Nightlife available from ticket agency Box Office
(%081 551 91 88; www.boxofficenapoli.it; Galleria
Caffè Gambrinus CAFE Umberto I 17; h9.30am-8pm Mon-Fri, 9.30am-
1.30pm & 4.30-8pm Sat; gR2 to Piazza Trieste
(%081 41 75 82; www.grancaffegambrinus.com; e Trento) or the box office inside bookshop
Via Chiaia 12; h7am-1am Sun-Thu, to 2am Fri, Feltrinelli (%081 032 23 62; www.azzurro
to 3am Sat; gR2 to Via San Carlo, mMunicipio) service.net; Piazza dei Martiri 23; h11am-2pm &
Grand, chandeliered Gambrinus is Naples’ 3-8pm Mon-Sat; gC24 to Piazza dei Martiri).
oldest and most venerable cafe. Oscar Wilde
knocked back a few here and Mussolini had
some of the rooms shut to keep out left-wing
intellectuals. The prices may be steep, but Teatro San Carlo OPERA, BALLET
See p28
the aperitivo nibbles are decent and sipping
a spritz or a luscious cioccolata calda (hot
chocolate) in its belle époque rooms is some- Centro di Musica Antica

thing worth savouring. Pietà de’ Turchini CLASSICAL MUSIC

(%081 40 23 95; www.turchini.it; Via Santa Cateri-
na da Siena 38; j funicular Centrale to Corso Vitto-
Spazio Nea CAFE rio Emanuele) Classical-music buffs are in for a

(%081 45 13 58; www.spazionea.it; Via Constan- treat at this beautiful deconsecrated church,
tinopoli 53; h9am-2am; W; mDante) Aptly
skirting bohemian Piazza Bellini, this an evocative setting for concerts of mostly
17th- to 19th-century Neapolitan works.
whitewashed gallery features its own cafe- Tickets usually cost €10 (reduced €7).
bar speckled with books, flowers, cultured
crowds and al fresco seating at the bottom
of a baroque staircase. Eye up exhibitions of Lanificio 25 LIVE MUSIC

contemporary Italian and foreign art, then (www.lanificio25.it; Piazza Enrico De Nicola 46;
admission €5-10; h9pm-late Fri & Sat; mGari-
kick back with a caffé or a Cynar spritz. baldi) This Bourbon-era wool factory and
Check Nea’s Facebook page for upcoming
readings, live music gigs or DJ sets. 15th-century cloister is now a burgeoning
party and culture hub, strung with coloured
lights and awash with video projections.
N a ple s & A ro u n d N aApPlLeEsS Enoteca Belledonne BAR Live music (usually from 10pm) is the main-

(%081 40 31 62; www.enotecabelledonne.com; Vico stay, with mostly Italian outfits playing
Belledonne a Chiaia 18; h10am-2pm & 4.30pm-
2am Tue-Sat, 6.30pm-1am Mon & Sun; W; gC24 to indie, rock, world music, electronica and
more to an easy, arty, cosmopolitan crowd.
Riviera di Chiaia) Exposed-brick walls, ambient
lighting and bottle-lined shelves set a cosy
scene at Chiaia’s best-loved wine bar – just 7 Shopping

look for the evening crowd spilling out onto Tramontano ACCESSORIES

the street. Swill, sniff and eavesdrop over a (%081 41 48 37; www.tramontano.it; Via Chiaia 143-
144; h10am-1.30pm & 4-8pm Mon-Sat; gC24 to
list of well-chosen, mostly Italian wines, in- Piazza dei Martiri) Tramontano has a solid rep
cluding 30 by the glass. The decent grazing
menu includes charcuterie and cheese (€16), for its exquisitely crafted Neapolitan leather
crostini (from €6) and bruschettas (€7). goods, from glam handbags and preppy
satchels to duffels and totes. Each year, a
Galleria 19 CLUB new bag, inspired by a classic song, whether

(www.galleria19.it; Via San Sebastiano 19; h11pm- it’s Patti Smith’s ‘Kimberley’ or Creedence
5am Tue-Sat; mDante) Set in a long, cavernous
cellar scattered with chesterfields and indus- Clearwater Revival’s ‘Proud Mary’, is added
to the Rock Ladies’ Collection.
trial lamps, this popular centro storico club
draws a uni crowd early in the week, and
20- and 30-somethings on Friday and Sat- E. Marinella FASHION

urday. Tunes span electronica, commercial (%081 764 42 14; www.marinellanapoli.it; Via Riviera
di Chiaia 287; h8am-8pm Mon-Sat, 9am-1pm Sun;
and house. Check the website for upcoming gC25 to Riviera di Chiaia, C24 to Piazza dei Martiri)
events. One-time favourite of Luchino Visconti and
Aristotle Onassis, this vintage boutique is the
3 Entertainment place for prêt-à-porter and made-to-measure

Options run the gamut from nail-biting silk ties in striking patterns and hues. Match
football games to world-class opera. For them with an irresistible selection of luxury
cultural listings check www.incampania. accessories, including shoes, vintage co-
110it. Tickets for most cultural events are lognes, and scarves for style queens.

La Scarabattola CRAFTS WEBSITES
In Campania (www.incampania.com) Campa-
(%081 29 17 35; www.lascarabattola.it; Via dei Tri- nia’s official tourist website.
bunali 50; h10.30am-2pm & 3.30-7.30pm Mon-Fri, Napoli Unplugged (www.napoliunplugged.
10am-6pm Sat; gC55 to Via Duomo) Not only com) Informative website covering sights,
do La Scarabattola’s handmade sculptures events, news and practicalities.
of magi (wise men), devils and Neapolitan
folk figures constitute Jerusalem’s official 88 Getting There & Away
Christmas crèche, the artisan studio’s fans
include fashion designer Stefano Gabbana CAR & MOTORCYCLE
and Spanish royalty. Figurines aside, Naples is on the Autostrada del Sole, the A1
sleek ceramic creations (think Pulcinella- (north to Rome and Milan) and the A3 (south to
inspired place-card holders) refresh Neapol- Salerno and Reggio di Calabria). The A30 skirts
itan folklore with contemporary style. Naples to the northeast, while the A16 heads
across the Apennines to Bari.
88 Information
On approaching the city, the motorways meet
Loreto-Mare Hospital (Ospedale Lore- the Tangenziale di Napoli, a major ring road
to-Mare; % 081 254 27 01, emergency around the city. The ring road hugs the city’s
081 254 27 43; Via A Vespucci 26; g154, northern fringe, meeting the A1 for Rome in the
j1, 2, 4) Central-city hospital with an emer- east and continuing westwards towards the
gency department. Campi Flegrei and Pozzuoli.
Pharmacy (Stazione Centrale; h7am-9pm
Mon-Sat, to 8pm Sun) Inside the train station. 88 Getting Around
Police Station (Questura; % 081 794 11 11;
Via Medina 75; m Università) Has an office for TO/FROM THE AIRPORT
foreigners. To report a stolen car, call % 081 Airport shuttle bus Alibus connects the airport
79 41 43. to Piazza Garibaldi (Stazione Centrale) and Molo
Beverello (€3 from selected tobacconists, €4 on
TOURIST OFFICES board; 45 minutes; every 20 minutes). Naples & Around NAPLES
Head to the following tourist bureaux for infor-
mation and a map of the city: Official taxi fares from the airport are as follows:
€23 to a seafront hotel or to Mergellina hydrofoil
Tourist Information Office (% 081 551 27 01; terminal, €19 to Piazza Municipio or Molo Beverel-
Piazza del Gesù Nuovo 7; h 9am-5pm Mon- lo ferry terminal, and €16 to Stazione Centrale.
Sat, to 1pm Sun; m Dante) Tourist office in the
centro storico. BUS
In Naples, buses are operated by city transport
Tourist Information Office (% 081 26 87 79; company ANM (% 800 639525; www.anm.it).
Stazione Centrale; h 8.30am-7.30pm; m Gar- There’s no central bus station, but most buses
ibaldi) Tourist office inside Stazione Centrale pass through Piazza Garibaldi.
(Central Station).
CAR & MOTORCYCLE
Tourist Information Office (% 081 40 23 Vehicle theft, anarchic traffic and illegal parking
94; Via San Carlo 9; h 9am-5pm Mon-Sat, to ‘attendants’ make driving in Naples a bad option.
1pm Sun; g R2 to Via San Carlo, m Municipio) Furthermore, much of the city centre is closed to
Tourist office at Galleria Umberto I, directly nonresident traffic for much of the day.
opposite Teatro San Carlo.

TICKETS, PLEASE

If travelling on public transport in Naples and Campania, you will most likely be using TIC
(Ticket Integrato Campania) tickets. Available from newspaper kiosks and tabaccaio
(tobacconists), these integrated tickets are valid on bus, tram, funicular, metro and
suburban train services in Naples, on regional Circumvesuviana and Cumana trains, and
on EAV and SITA Sud buses across Campania. They are not valid on ferry and hydrofoil
services. Ticket types and prices vary depending on where you want to travel.

The cheapest option is a corsa semplice (one-trip) ticket, valid for one trip within one
travel zone only. The biglietto orario (multitrip ticket) allows for multiple trips within a
specified time period and across any number of zones. Daily and multiday tickets are
also available in some areas. Prices listed in this chapter are generally for biglietto orario
tickets. Check the TIC website (www.tic-campania.net) for exact details.

111

East of the city centre, there’s a 24-hour car Consorzio Taxi Napoli (% 081 88 88; www.
park at Via Brin (€1.30 for the first four hours, consorziotaxinapoli.it)
€7.20 for 24 hours). Radio Taxi Napoli (% 081 556 44 44; www.
radiotaxinapoli.it)
FUNICULAR
Three services connect central Naples to MT VESUVIUS & POMPEII
Vomero, while a fourth connects Mergellina to
Posillipo. Looming over the Bay of Naples, stratovol-
cano Mt Vesuvius (%081 239 56 53; adult/
METRO reduced €10/8; h9am-6pm Jul & Aug, to 5pm Apr-
Line 1 Runs from Garibaldi (Stazione Centrale) Jun & Sep, to 4pm Mar & Oct, to 3pm Nov-Feb, ticket
to Vomero and the northern suburbs via the office closes 1hr before the crater) has blown its
city centre. Useful stops include: Duomo and top more than 30 times. Its violent outburst
Università (southern edge of the centro storico), in AD 79 not only drowned Pompeii in pum-
Municipio (hydrofoil and ferry terminals), To- ice and pushed the coastline back several
ledo (Via Toledo and Quartieri Spagnoli), Dante kilometres; it also destroyed much of the
(western edge of the centro storico) and Museo mountain top, creating a huge caldera and
Archaeologica Nazionale. two new peaks. The most destructive explo-
Line 2 Runs from Gianturco to Garibaldi (Stazi- sion after that of AD 79 was in 1631, while
one Centrale) and on to Pozzuoli. Useful stops the most recent was in 1944.
include: Piazza Cavour (La Sanità and northern
edge of centro storico), Piazza Amedeo (Chiaia) Each year about 2.5 million people pour in
and Mergellina (Mergellina ferry terminal). to wander the eerie shell of ancient Pompeii,
Change between lines 1 and 2 at Garibaldi or a once thriving commercial centre. Not only
Piazza Cavour (known as Museo on Line 1). an evocative glimpse into Roman life, the ru-
Line 6 A light-rail service running between ins provide a stark reminder of the malign
Mergellina and Mostra. forces that lie deep inside Mt Vesuvius.

TAXI Vesuvius itself is the focal point of the
Official taxis are white and have meters; always Parco Nazionale del Vesuvio (Vesuvi-
ensure the meter is running. There are taxi us National Park; www.epnv.it), which offers
stands at most of the city’s main piazzas or you nine nature walks around the volcano. A
can call one of the following taxi cooperatives. simple map of the trails can be download-
See the taxi company websites for a comprehen- ed from the park’s website. Alternatively,
sive list of fares. Naples Trips & Tours (%349 7155270; www.
Consortaxi (% 081 22 22; www.consortaxi. naplestripsandtours.com; guided tours €50)
com)

MARK WILLIAMSON / GETTY IMAGES ©

112 Temple of Apollo, Pompeii

runs a daily horse-riding tour of the park TOURS
(weather permitting). Running for three to
four hours, the tour includes transfers to/ You’ll almost certainly be approached
from Naples or Ercolano-Scavi Circumve- by a guide outside the scavi (excava-
suviana station, helmet, saddle, guide and tions) ticket office: note that author-
(most importantly) coffee. ised guides wear identification tags. If
considering a guided tour of the ruins,
Note that when weather conditions are reputable tour operators include Yel-
bad the summit path is shut and bus depar- low Sudmarine (%329 1010328, 334
tures are suspended. 1047036; www.yellowsudmarine.com; 2hr
Pompeii guided tour €110) and Walks
1 Sights of Italy (www.walksofitaly.com; 2½hr
Pompeii guided tour €52), both of which
Ruins of Pompeii ARCHAEOLOGICAL SITE also offer excursions to other areas of
Campania.
(%081 857 53 47; www.pompeiisites.org; entrances
at Porta Marina, Piazza Esedra & Piazza Anfite-
atro; adult/reduced €11/5.50; h8.30am-7.30pm
summer, to 5pm winter) The ghostly ruins of
ancient Pompeii (Pompei in Italian) make
for one of the world’s most engrossing ar- If you’d rather eat at the ruins, the on-
chaeological experiences. Much of the site’s site cafeteria peddles the standard choice of
value lies in the fact that the town wasn’t panini, pizza slices, salads, hot meals and
simply blown away by Vesuvius in AD 79 but gelato.

buried under a layer of lapilli (burning frag- President CAMPANIAN €€
ments of pumice stone). The result is a re-
markably well-preserved slice of ancient life, (%081 850 72 45; www.ristorantepresident.
it; Piazza Schettini 12; meals €35; hnoon-4pm
where visitors can walk down Roman streets & 7pm-midnight, closed Mon Oct-Apr; dFS to
and snoop around millennia-old houses,
temples, shops, cafes, amphitheatres, and Pompei, dCircumvesuviana to Pompei Scavi-Vil-
la dei Misteri) With its dripping chandeliers
even a brothel. and gracious service, the Michelin-starred Naples & Around MT VESUVIUS & POMPEII

Villa dei Misteri ARCHAEOLOGICAL SITE President feels like a private dining room

This recently restored, 90-room villa is one in an Audrey Hepburn film. At the helm
of the most complete structures left stand- is charming owner-chef Paolo Gramaglia,
ing in Pompeii. The Dionysiac frieze, the whose passion for local produce, history
most important fresco still on-site, spans the and culinary creativity translates into bread
walls of the large dining room. One of the made to ancient Roman recipes, slow-
biggest and most arresting paintings from cooked snapper paired with tomato puree
the ancient world, it depicts the initiation of and sweet-onion gelato, and deconstructed
a bride-to-be into the cult of Dionysus, the pastiera (sweet Neapolitan tart).
Greek god of wine.
Follow Via Consolare out of the town 88 Information
through Porta Ercolano. Continue past Vil-
la di Diomede, turn right, and you’ll come Tourist Office (% 081 850 72 55; Via Sacra
to Villa dei Misteri. 1; h 8.30am-3.30pm Mon-Fri) Located in the
centre of the modern town.

4 Sleeping & Eating 88 Getting There & Away

The ruins are best visited on a day trip from Busvia del Vesuvio shuttle buses to Vesuvius
Naples, Sorrento or Salerno; once the exca- depart from outside the Pompei-Scavi-Villa dei
vations close for the day, the area around the Misteri train station.
site becomes decidedly seedy. Most of the
restaurants near the ruins are characterless To get here by car, take the A3 from Naples.
affairs set up for feeding busloads of tour- Use the Pompeii exit and follow signs to Pompeii
ists. Down in the modern town are a few de- Scavi. Car parks (approximately €5 per hour) are
cent restaurants serving excellent local food. clearly marked and vigorously touted.

113

©Lonely Planet Publi-

ROAD TRIP
ESSENTIALS

ITALY
DRIVING GUIDE....................... 115

Driving Licence & Documents................. 115
Insurance.................................................. 115
Hiring a Car............................................... 115
Bringing Your Own Vehicle...................... 116
Border Crossings..................................... 116
Maps...........................................................117
Roads & Conditions..................................117
Road Rules................................................ 118
Parking...................................................... 119
Fuel........................................................... 120
Safety....................................................... 120
Radio......................................................... 120

ITALY
TRAVEL GUIDE......................... 121

Getting There & Away....................................121
Air...................................................................... 121
Car & Motorcycle............................................. 121
Sea..................................................................... 121
Train.................................................................. 122
Directory A–Z................................................. 122
Accommodation............................................... 122
Electricity.......................................................... 123
Food...................................................................124
Gay & Lesbian Travellers.................................124
Health................................................................ 125
Internet Access................................................125
Money................................................................ 125
Opening Hours..................................................126
Public Holidays.................................................126
Safe Travel........................................................126
Telephone......................................................... 127
Toilets................................................................128
Tourist Information..........................................128
Travellers with Disabilities..............................128
Visas..................................................................128

LANGUAGE...............................129

Italy
Driving Guide

Italy’sstunningnaturalscenery,comprehensiveroad
networkandpassionforcarsmakesitawonderfulroad-
trip destination.

Driving Fast Facts do). For motorcycles over 125cc you need a
motorcycle licence.
Right or left? Drive on the right
Manual or automatic? Mostly INSURANCE
manual
Legal driving age 18 ¨¨Third-party liability insurance is mandatory
Top speed limit 130km/h to for all vehicles in Italy, including cars brought in
150km/h (on autostradas) from abroad.
Signature car Flaming red Ferrari ¨¨If driving an EU-registered vehicle, your
or Fiat 500 home country insurance is sufficient. Ask your
insurer for a European Accident Statement
DRIVING LICENCE & (EAS) form, which can simplify matters in the
DOCUMENTS event of an accident.
¨¨Hire agencies provide the minimum legal
When driving in Italy you are required to insurance; you can supplement it if you
carry with you: choose.
¨¨The vehicle registration document
¨¨Your driving licence HIRING A CAR
¨¨Proof of third-party liability insurance
Car-hire agencies are widespread in Italy
Driving Licence and prebooking on the internet is often
¨¨All EU member states’ driving licences are cheaper. Considerations before renting:
fully recognised throughout Europe. ¨¨Bear in mind that a car is generally more
¨¨Travellers from other countries should hassle than it’s worth in cities, so only hire one
obtain an International Driving Permit (IDP) for the time you’ll be on the open road.
through their national automobile association. ¨¨Consider vehicle size carefully. High fuel
This should be carried with your licence; it is prices, extremely narrow streets and tight
not a substitute for it. parking conditions mean that smaller is often
¨¨No licence is needed to ride a scooter under better.
50cc. To ride a motorcycle or scooter up to ¨¨Road signs can be iffy in remote areas, so
125cc, you’ll need a licence (a car licence will consider booking and paying for satnav.

Standard regulations:

115

Italy Driving Guide Bringing Your Own Vehicle Local Expert: Driving Tips

A representative of the Automobile Club d’Italia (ACI) offers these pearls to ease
your way on Italian roads:
¨¨Pay particular attention to the weather. In summer when it gets very hot,
always carry a bottle of water with you and have some fresh fruit to eat. Italy is
a sunny country but, in winter, watch out for ice, snow and fog.

¨¨On the extra-urban roads and autostradas, cars have to have their headlights
on even during the day.

¨¨Watch out for signs at the autostrada toll booths – the lanes marked
‘Telepass’ are for cars that pay through an automatic electronic system without
stopping.

¨¨Watch out in the cities – big and small – for the Limited Traffic Zones (ZTL)
and pay parking. There is no universal system for indicating these or their
hours.

¨¨Many agencies have a minimum rental age of BRINGING YOUR OWN VEHICLE
25 and a maximum of 79. You can sometimes
hire if you’re over 21 but supplements will There are no major obstacles to driving
apply. your own vehicle into Italy. But you will
¨¨To rent you’ll need a credit card, valid driving have to adjust your car’s headlights if it’s
licence (with IDP if necessary) and passport a left-hand-drive UK model. You’ll need to
or photo ID. Note that some companies require carry the following in the car:
you to have your licence for at least a year. ¨¨A warning triangle
¨¨Hire cars come with the minimum legal ¨¨A fluorescent reflective vest to wear if you
insurance, which you can supplement by pur- have to stop on a major road
chasing additional coverage. ¨¨Snow chains if travelling in mountainous
¨¨Check with your credit-card company to see areas between 15 October and 15 April
if it offers a Collision Damage Waiver, which
covers you for additional damage if you use BORDER CROSSINGS
that card to pay for the car.
Aside from the coast roads linking Italy
The following are among the most com- with France and Slovenia, border crossings
petitive multinational and Italian car-hire into Italy mostly involve tunnels through
agencies. the Alps (open year-round) or mountain
Avis (%199 100133; www.avis.com) passes (seasonally closed or requiring
Budget (%800 4723325; www.budget.com) snow chains). Every vehicle travelling
Europcar (%199 307030; www.europcar.com) across an international border should
Hertz (%199 112211; www.hertz.com) display a nationality plate of its country
Italy by Car (%091 6393120; www.italyby of registration. The list below outlines the
car.it) Partners with Thrifty. major points of entry.
Maggiore (%199 151120; www.maggiore.it) Austria From Innsbruck to Bolzano via A22/E45
Partners with Alamo and National. (Brenner Pass); Villach to Tarvisio via A23/E55
France From Nice to Ventimiglia via A10/E80;
Motorcycles Modane to Turin via A32/E70 (Fréjus Tunnel);
Agencies throughout Italy rent motor- Chamonix to Courmayeur via A5/E25 (Mont
bikes, ranging from small Vespas to larger Blanc Tunnel)
touring bikes. Prices start at around Slovenia Sežana to Trieste via SR58/E70
€80/400 per day/week for a 650cc
motorcycle.

116

Coins Strade statali State highways; represented
on maps by ‘S’ or ‘SS’. Vary from four-lane
Always try to keep some coins to highways to two-lane main roads. The latter
hand. They come in very useful for can be extremely slow, especially in mountain-
parking meters. ous regions.
Strade regionali Regional highways con-
Switzerland From Martigny to Aosta via necting small villages. Coded ‘SR’ or ‘R’.
SS27/E27 (Grand St Bernard Tunnel); Lugano Strade provinciali Provincial highways;
to Como via A9/E35 coded ‘SP’ or ‘P’.
Strade locali Often not even paved or
mapped. Italy Driving Guide Maps

MAPS Along with their A or SS number, some Ital-
ian roads are labelled with an E number –
We recommend you purchase a good for example, the A4 autostrada is also
road map for your trip. The best driving shown as the E64 on maps and signs. This
maps are produced by the Touring Club E number refers to the road’s designation
Italiano (www.touringclub.com), Italy’s on the Europe-wide E-road network.
largest map publisher. They are available E routes, which often cross national
at bookshops across Italy or online at the boundaries, are generally made up of
following: major national roads strung together. The
Omni Resources (www.omnimap.com) E70, for example, traverses 10 countries
Stanfords (www.stanfords.co.uk) and includes the Italian A4, A21 and A32
autostradas, as it runs from northern
Spain to Georgia.

ROADS & CONDITIONS Limited Traffic Zones
Many town and city centres are off-limits
Italy’s extensive road network covers the to unauthorised traffic at certain times.
entire peninsula and with enough patience If you drive past a sign with the wording
you’ll be able to get just about anywhere. Zona a Traffico Limitato you are entering
Road quality varies – the autostradas
are generally excellent but smaller roads, Road-Trip Websites
particularly in rural areas, are not always
great. Heavy rain can cause axle-busting AUTOMOBILE ASSOCIATIONS
potholes to form and road surfaces to Automobile Club d’Italia (www.
crumble. aci.it) Has a comprehensive online
guide to motoring in Italy. Provides
Traffic in and around the main cities 24-hour roadside assistance.
is bad during morning and evening rush
hours. Coastal roads get very busy on CONDITIONS & TRAFFIC
summer weekends. As a rule, traffic is Autostrade (www.autostrade.it)
quietest between 2pm and 4pm. Route planner, weather forecasts
and the traffic situation in real time.
Road Categories Also lists service stations, petrol
Autostradas Italy boasts an extensive prices and toll costs.
network of autostradas, represented on road
signs by a white ‘A’ followed by a number on a MAPS
green background. The main north–south link Michelin (www.viamichelin.it) Online
is the Autostrada del Sole (the ‘Motorway of road-trip planner.
the Sun’), which runs from Milan (Milano) to Tutto Città (www.tuttocitta.it) Good
Reggio di Calabria. It’s called the A1 from Milan for detailed town and city maps.
to Rome (Roma), the A2 from Rome to Naples
(Napoli), and the A3 from Naples to Reggio di
Calabria. There are tolls on most motorways,
payable by cash or credit card as you exit. To
calculate the toll price for any given journey,
use the route planner on www.autostrade.it.

117

Italy Driving Guide Road Rules Driving Problem-Buster

I can’t speak Italian, will that be a problem? When at a petrol station you
might have to ask the attendant for your fill-up. The thing to do here is ask for the
amount you want, so venti euro for €20 or pieno for full. And always specify ben-
zina senza piombo for unleaded petrol and gasolio for diesel. At autostrada toll
booths, the amount you owe appears on a read-out by the booth.

What should I do if my car breaks down? Call the service number of your car-
hire company. The Automobile Club d’Italia (ACI) provides a 24-hour roadside
emergency service – call %803 116 from a landline or mobile with an Italian
provider or %800 116800 from a foreign mobile phone. Foreigners do not have
to join but instead pay a per-incident fee. Note that in the event of a breakdown, a
warning triangle is compulsory, as is use of an approved yellow or orange safety
vest if you leave your vehicle.

What if I have an accident? For minor accidents there’s no need to call the
police. Fill in an accident report – Constatazione Amichevole di Incidente (CAI;
Agreed Motor Accident Statement) – through your car-hire firm or insurance
company.

What should I do if I get stopped by the police? The police will want to
see your passport (or photo ID), licence, car registration papers and proof of
insurance.

What if I can’t find anywhere to stay? Always book ahead in summer and
popu­lar holiday periods. Italy doesn’t have chains of roadside motels so if it’s get-
ting late head to the nearest town and look for signs for an albergo (hotel).

Will I be able to find ATMs? Some autostrada service stations have ATMs
(known as bancomat in Italian). Otherwise, they are widely available in towns and
cities.

Will I need to pay tolls in advance? No. When you join an autostrada you have
to pick up a ticket at the barrier. When you exit you pay based on the distance
you’ve covered. Pay by cash or credit card. Avoid Telepass lanes at toll stations.

Are the road signs easy to read? Most signs are fairly obvious but it helps to
know that town/city centres are indicated by the word centro and a kind of black-
and-white bullseye sign; divieto fermata means ‘no stopping’; and tutte le direzi-
one means ‘all directions’, i.e access to major roads or intersections.

a Limited Traffic Zone (ZTL) and risk being ¨¨Seatbelt use (front and rear) is required by
caught on camera and fined. Being in a hire law; violators are subject to an on-the-spot fine.
car will not exempt you from this rule. ¨¨In the event of a breakdown, a warning tri-
angle is compulsory, as is use of an approved
If you think your hotel might be in a ZTL, yellow or orange safety vest if you leave your
contact them beforehand to ask about vehicle. Recommended accessories include a
access arrangements. first-aid kit, spare-bulb kit and fire extinguisher.
¨¨Italy’s blood-alcohol limit is 0.05%, and ran-
ROAD RULES dom breath tests take place. If you’re involved
in an accident while under the influence, the
¨¨Drive on the right side of the road and over- penalties can be severe.
take on the left. Unless otherwise indicated, ¨¨Headlights are compulsory day and night for
give way to cars entering an intersection from a all vehicles on autostradas and main roads.
road on your right.

118

¨¨Helmets are required on all two-wheeled ¨¨Flashing is common on the roads and has
transport. several meanings. If a car behind you flashes
¨¨Motorbikes can enter most restricted traffic it means: ‘Get out of the way’ or ‘Don’t pull
areas in Italian cities. out, I’m not stopping’. But if an approaching
¨¨Speeding fines follow EU standards and are car flashes you, it’s warning you that there’s a
proportionate with the number of kilometres police check ahead.
that you are caught driving over the speed ¨¨Use of the car horn is widespread. It might be
limit, reaching up to €2000 with possible a warning but it might equally be an expression
suspension of your driving licence. Speed limits of frustration at slow-moving traffic or celebra-
are as follows: tion that the traffic light’s turning green.

Autostradas 130km/h to 150km/h PARKING Italy Driving Guide Parking
Other main highways 110km/h
Minor, nonurban roads 90km/h ¨¨Parking is a major headache. Space is at a
Built-up areas 50km/h premium in towns and cities and Italy’s traffic
wardens are annoyingly efficient.
Road Etiquette ¨¨Parking spaces outlined in blue are desig-
¨¨Italian drivers are fast, aggressive and skilful. nated for paid parking – get a ticket from the
Lane hopping and late braking are the norm nearest meter (coins only) or tabaccaio (tobac-
and it’s not uncommon to see cars tailgating at conist) and display it on your dashboard. Note,
130km/h. Don’t expect cars to slow down for you however, that charges often don’t apply over-
or let you out. As soon as you see a gap, go for it. night, typically between 8pm and 8am.
Italians expect the unexpected and react swiftly, ¨¨White or yellow lines almost always indicate
but they’re not used to ditherers, so be decisive. that residential permits are needed.

Road Distances (km)

Bologna 681

Florence 784 106 Note
Genoa 996 285 268 Distances between Palermo and mainland
Milan 899 218 324 156 towns do not take into account the ferry
Naples 322 640 534 758 858 from Reggio di Calabria to Messina. Add

an extra hour to your journey time to
allow for this crossing.

Palermo 734 1415 1345 1569 1633 811

Perugia 612 270 164 432 488 408 1219

Reggio di Calabria 490 1171 1101 1325 1389 567 272 816

Rome 482 408 302 526 626 232 1043 170 664

Siena 714 176 70 296 394 464 1275 103 867 232

Trento 892 233 339 341 218 874 1626 459 1222 641 375

Trieste 995 308 414 336 420 948 1689 543 1445 715 484 279

Turin 1019 338 442 174 139 932 1743 545 1307 702 460 349 551

Venice 806 269 265 387 284 899 799 394 1296 567 335 167 165 415

Verona 808 141 247 282 164 781 1534 377 1139 549 293 97 250 295 120

Bari
Bologna
Florence
Genoa
Milan
Naples
Palermo
Perugia
Reggio di Calabria
Rome
Siena
Trento
Trieste
Turin
Venice

119

Italy Driving Guide Fuel Italy Playlist petrol (benzina senza piombo) averaged €1.93
per litre, with diesel (gasolio) averaging €1.81
Nessun Dorma Puccini per litre.
O sole mio Traditional
Tu vuoi fare l’americano Renato SAFETY
Carsone
Vieni via con me Paolo Conte The main safety threat to motorists is
That’s Amore Dean Martin theft. Hire cars and foreign vehicles are
Four Seasons Vivaldi a target for robbers and although you’re
unlikely to have a problem, thefts do occur.
¨¨Traffic police generally turn a blind eye to As a general rule, always lock your car and
motorcycles or scooters parked on footpaths. never leave anything showing, particularly
valuables, and certainly not overnight. If
at all possible, avoid leaving luggage in
an unattended car. It’s a good idea to pay
extra to leave your car in supervised car
parks.

FUEL RADIO

¨¨You’ll find filling stations all over, but smaller RAI, Italy’s state broadcaster, operates
ones tend to close between about 1pm and three national radio stations – Radio 1, 2
3.30pm and on Sunday afternoons. and 3 – offering news, current affairs, clas-
¨¨Many have fai da te (self-service) pumps sical and commercial music, and endless
that you can use any time. Simply insert a bank phone-ins. Isoradio, another RAI station,
note into the payment machine and press the provides regular news and traffic bulletins.
number of the pump you want. There are also thousands of commercial
¨¨Italy’s petrol prices are among the highest radio stations, many broadcasting locally.
in Europe and vary from one service station Major ones include Radio Capital, good
(benzinaio, stazione di servizio) to another. for modern hits; Radio Deejay, aimed at
When this book was researched, lead-free a younger audience; and Radio 24, which
airs news and talk shows.

120

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

Italy
Travel Guide

GETTING THERE & Aside from the coast roads linking Italy
AWAY with France and Slovenia, border crossings
into Italy mostly involve tunnels through
AIR the Alps (open year-round) or mountain
passes (seasonally closed or requiring
Italy’s main international airports: snow chains). The list below outlines the
Rome Leonardo da Vinci (Fiumicino; major points of entry.
www.adr.it) Italy’s principal airport. Austria From Innsbruck to Bolzano via A22/
Rome Ciampino (www.adr.it) Hub for E45 (Brenner Pass); Villach to Tarvisio via
Ryanair flights to Rome (Roma). A23/E55.
Milan Malpensa (www.milanomalpensa1.eu, France From Nice to Ventimiglia via A10/
www.milanomalpensa2.eu) Main airport of E80; Modane to Turin (Torino) via A32/E70
Milan (Milano). (Fréjus Tunnel); Chamonix to Courmayeur via
Milan Linate (www.milanolinate.eu) Milan’s A5/E25 (Mont Blanc Tunnel).
second airport. Slovenia From Sežana to Trieste via
Bergamo Orio al Serio (www.sacbo.it) SS58/E70.
Turin (www.turin-airport.com) Switzerland From Martigny to Aosta via
Bologna Guglielmo Marconi (www. SS27/E27 (Grand St Bernard Tunnel); Lugano
bologna-airport.it) to Como via A9/E35.
Pisa Galileo Galilei (www.pisa-airport.
com) Main international airport for Tuscany. SEA
Venice Marco Polo (www.veniceairport.it)
Naples Capodichino (www.gesac.it) International car ferries sail to Italy from
Bari Palese (www.aeroportidipuglia.it) Albania, Croatia, Greece, Malta, Montene-
Catania Fontanarossa (www.aeroporto. gro, Morocco, Slovenia, Spain and Tunisia.
catania.it) Sicily’s busiest airport. Some routes only operate in summer,
Palermo Falcone-Borsellino (www. when ticket prices rise. Prices for vehicles
gesap.it) vary according to their size. Car hire is not
Cagliari Elmas (www.sogaer.it) Main always available at ports, so check before-
gateway for Sardinia. hand on the nearest agency.

Car hire is available at all of these airports. The website www.traghettionline.com
(in Italian) details all of the ferry compa-
CAR & MOTORCYCLE nies in the Mediterranean. The principal
operators serving Italy:
Driving into Italy is fairly straightforward – Agoudimos Lines (www.agoudimos.it)
thanks to the Schengen Agreement, there Greece to Bari (11 to 16 hours) and Brindisi
are no customs checks when driving in (seven to 14 hours).
from neighbours France, Switzerland, Endeavor Lines (www.endeavor-lines.com)
Austria and Slovenia. Greece to Brindisi (seven to 14 hours).
Grandi Navi Veloci (www.gnv.it) Barce-
lona to Genoa (18 hours).
Jadrolinija (www.jadrolinija.hr) Croatia to
Ancona (from nine hours) and Bari (10 hours).

121

Italy Travel Guide Train Practicalities depending on demand, season and booking
method (online, through an agency etc).
¨¨Smoking Banned in all closed ¨¨As a rule, peak rates apply at Easter, in sum-
public spaces. mer and over the Christmas/New Year period.
¨¨Time Italy uses the 24-hour But there are exceptions – in the mountains,
clock and is on Central European high season means the ski season (December
Time, one hour ahead of GMT/UTC. to late March). Also, August is high season on
¨¨TV & DVD The main TV channels: the coast but low season in many cities where
state-run RAI-1, RAI-2 and RAI-3; hotels offer discounts.
Canale 5, Italia 1 and Rete 4; and ¨¨Southern Italy is generally cheaper than the
La 7. Italian DVDs are regionally north.
coded 2.
¨¨Weights & Measures Italy uses Reservations
the metric system, so kilometres ¨¨Always book ahead in peak season, even if
not miles, litres not gallons. it’s only for the first night or two.
¨¨In the off-season, it always pays to call ahead
Minoan Lines (www.minoan.gr) Greece to to check that your hotel is open. Many coastal
Venice (22 to 30 hours) and Ancona (16 to 22 hotels close for winter, typically opening from
hours). late March to late October.
Montenegro Lines (www.montenegrolines. ¨¨Hotels usually require that reservations
net) Bar to Bari (nine hours). be confirmed with a credit-card number. No-
Superfast (www.superfast.com) Greece to shows will be docked a night’s accommodation.
Bari (11 to 16 hours) and Ancona (16 to 22 hours).
Ventouris (www.ventouris.gr) Albania to Bari B&Bs
(eight hours). B&Bs can be found throughout the country
in both urban and rural settings. Options
TRAIN include restored farmhouses, city palazzi
(mansions), seaside bungalows and rooms
Regular trains on two western lines con- in family houses. Prices vary but as a rule
nect Italy with France (one along the coast B&Bs are often better value than hotels in
and the other from Turin into the French the same category. Note that breakfast in
Alps). Trains from Milan head north into an Italian B&B will often be a continental
Switzerland and on towards the Benelux combination of bread rolls, croissants, ham
countries. Further east, two lines connect and cheese. For more information, contact
with Central and Eastern Europe. Bed & Breakfast Italia (www.bbitalia.it).

Trenitalia (www.trenitalia.com) offers vari- Hotels & Pensioni
ous train and car-hire packages that allow A pensione is a small, family-run hotel or
you to save on hire charges when you book guesthouse. Hotels are bigger and more
a train ticket – see the website for details. expensive than pensioni, although at the
cheaper end of the market, there’s often
DIRECTORY A–Z little difference between the two. All hotels
are rated from one to five stars, although
this rating relates to facilities only and

ACCOMMODATION Sleeping Price Ranges

From dreamy villas to chic boutique hotels, The price ranges listed in this
historic hideaways and ravishing farm- book refer to a double room with
stays, Italy offers accommodation to suit bathroom.
every taste and budget.
€ less than €110
Seasons & Rates €€ €110–€200
¨¨Hotel rates fluctuate enormously from €€€ more than €200
high to low season, and even from day to day

122

gives no indication of value, comfort, at- Book Your Stay Online Italy Travel Guide Electricity
mosphere or friendliness.
For more accommodation reviews
Breakfast in cheaper hotels is rarely by Lonely Planet authors, check out
worth setting the alarm for. If you have the http://hotels.lonelyplanet.com/italy.
option, save your money and pop into a You’ll find independent reviews, as
bar for a coffee and cornetto (croissant). well as recommendations on the
¨¨One-star hotels and pensioni tend to be basic best places to stay. Best of all, you
and often do not offer private bathrooms. can book online.
¨¨Two-star places are similar but rooms will
generally have a private bathroom. Convents & Monasteries Some convents
¨¨Three-star hotel rooms will come with a and monasteries provide basic accommoda-
hairdryer, minibar (or fridge), safe and air-con. tion. Expect curfews, few frills and value
Many will also have satellite TV and wifi. for money. Useful resources include www.
¨¨Four- and five-star hotels offer facilities such monasterystays.com, www.initaly.com/agri/
as room service, laundry and dry-cleaning. convents.htm and www.santasusanna.org/
comingToRome/convents.html.
Agriturismi Refuges Mountain huts kitted out with bunk
From rustic country houses to luxurious rooms sleeping anything from two to a dozen
estates and fully functioning farms, Italian or more people. Many offer half-board (bed,
farmstays, known as agriturismi (sin- breakfast and dinner) and most are open from
gular – agriturismo) are hugely popular. mid-June to mid-September.
Comfort levels, facilities and prices vary Villas Villas and fattorie (farmhouses) can be
accordingly but the best will offer swim- rented in their entirety or sometimes by the
ming pools and top-class accommodation. room. Many have swimming pools.
Many also operate restaurants specialising
in traditional local cuisine. ELECTRICITY

Agriturismi have long thrived in Tus-
cany and Umbria, but you’ll now find them
across the country. For listings and further
details, check out the following sites:

Agriturismo.com (www.agriturismo.com)
Agriturismo.it (www.agriturismo.it)
Agriturismo-Italia.net (www.agriturismo
-italia.net)
Agriturismo.net (www.agriturismo.net)
Agriturismo Vero (www.agriturismo
vero.com)
Agriturist (www.agriturist.com)

Other Options 230V/50Hz
Camping A popular summer option. Most
campsites are big, summer-only complexes with
swimming pools, restaurants and supermarkets.
Many have space for RVs and offer bungalows
or simple, self-contained flats. Minimum stays
sometimes apply in high season. Check out
www.campeggi.com and www.camping.it.
Hostels Hostels around the country offer
dorm beds and private rooms. Breakfast is
usually included in rates and dinner is some-
times available for about €10. For listings and
further details, see www.aighostels.com or
www.hostelworld.com.

123

Italy Travel Guide Food 120V/60Hz Restaurants More formal, and more expen-
sive, than trattorias, with more choice and
FOOD smarter service. Reservations are generally
required for popular and top-end places.
A full Italian meal consists of an antipasto Pizzerias Alongside pizza, many pizzerias
(appetiser), primo (first course, usually a also offer antipasti, pastas, meat and vege­
pasta, risotto or polenta), secondo (sec- table dishes. They’re often only open in the
ond course, meat or fish) with contorno evening. The best have a wood-oven (forno a
(vegetable side dish) or insalata (salad), legna).
and dolce (dessert) and/or fruit. When Bars & Cafes Italians often breakfast on
eating out it’s perfectly OK to mix and cornetti and coffee at a bar or cafe. Many bars
match and order, say, a primo followed by and cafes sell panini (bread rolls with simple
an insalata or contorno. fillings) at lunchtime and serve a hot and
cold buffet during the early evening aperitivo
Where to Eat (aperitif) hour.
Trattorias Traditional, often family-run Wine Bars At an enoteca (plural – enoteche)
eateries offering simple, local food and wine. you can drink wine by the glass and eat snacks
Some newer-wave trattorias offer more crea- such as cheeses, cold meats, bruschette and
tive fare and scholarly wine lists. Generally crostini (little toasts). Some also serve hot
cheap to midrange in price. dishes.
Markets Most towns and cities have morning
Eating Price Ranges produce markets where you can stock up on
picnic provisions. Villages might have a weekly
The following price ranges refer to market.
a meal consisting of a primo (first
course), secondo (second course), GAY & LESBIAN TRAVELLERS
dolce (dessert) and a glass of house
wine for one: ¨¨Homosexuality is legal in Italy and well toler-
€ less than €25 ated in the major cities. However, overt dis-
€€ €25–€45 plays of affection by homosexual couples could
€€€ more than €45 attract a negative response, particularly in the
more conservative south and in smaller towns.
¨¨There are gay clubs in Rome, Milan and
Bologna, and a handful in places such as Flor-
ence. Some coastal towns and resorts (such as
Viareggio in Tuscany and Taormina in Sicily)
see much more action in summer.

Useful resources:
Arcigay & Arcilesbica (www.arcigay.it)
Bologna-based national organisation for gays
and lesbians.
GayFriendlyItaly.com (www.gayfriendly
italy.com) English-language site produced by
Gay.it, with information on everything from
hotels to homophobia issues and the law.
Gay.it (www.gay.it) Website listing gay bars
and hotels across the country.
Pride (www.prideonline.it) National monthly
magazine of art, music, politics and gay
culture.

124

HEALTH Italian Wine Italy Travel Guide Health
Classifications
¨¨Italy has a public health system that is legally
bound to provide emergency care to everyone. Italian wines are classified according
¨¨EU nationals are entitled to reduced-cost, to strict quality-control standards
sometimes free, medical care with a European and carry one of four denominations:
Health Insurance Card (EHIC), available from DOCG (Denominazione di Origine
your home health authority. Controllata e Garantita) Italy’s
¨¨Non-EU citizens should take out medical best wines; made in specific areas
insurance. according to stringent production
¨¨For emergency treatment, you can go to rules.
the pronto soccorso (casualty) section of an DOC (Denominazione di Origine
ospedale (public hospital), though be prepared Controllata) Quality wines produced
for a long wait. in defined regional areas.
¨¨Pharmacists can give advice and sell over- IGT (Indicazione geografica tipica)
the-counter medication for minor illnesses. Wines typical of a certain region.
Pharmacies generally keep the same hours as VdT (Vino da Tavola) Wines for
other shops, closing at night and on Sundays. A everyday drinking; often served as
handful remain open on a rotation basis (far- house wine in trattorias.
macie di turno) for emergency purposes. These
are usually listed in newspapers. Closed phar- MONEY
macies display a list of the nearest ones open.
¨¨In major cities you are likely to find English- Italy uses the euro. Euro notes come in
speaking doctors or a translator service available. denominations of €500, €200, €100, €50,
¨¨Italian tap water is fine to drink. €20, €10 and €5; coins come in denomina-
¨¨No vaccinations are required for travel to Italy. tions of €2 and €1, and 50, 20, 10, five, two
and one cents.
INTERNET ACCESS
For the latest exchange rates, check out
¨¨An increasing number of hotels, B&Bs, hos- www.xe.com.
tels and even agriturismi offer free wifi. You’ll
also find it in many bars and cafes. Admission Prices
¨¨The W icon used throughout this book indi- ¨¨There are no hard and fast rules, but many
cates wifi is available. state museums and galleries offer discounted
¨¨Rome and Bologna are among the cities admission to EU seniors and students.
that provide free wifi, although you’ll have to ¨¨Typically, EU citizens under 18 and over 65
register for the service at www.romawireless. enter free and those aged between 18 and 24
com (Rome) and www.comune.bologna.it/ pay a reduced rate.
wireless (Bologna) and have an Italian mobile ¨¨EU teachers might also qualify for conces-
phone number. sions. In all cases you’ll need photo ID to claim
¨¨Venice (Venezia) offers pay-for wifi packages reduced entry.
online at www.veniceconnected.com.
¨¨Internet access is not as widespread in rural ATMs
and southern Italy as in urban and northern ATMs (known as bancomat) are widely
areas. available throughout Italy and are the best
¨¨Internet cafes are thin on the ground. Typical way to obtain local currency.
charges range from €2 to €6 per hour. They
might require formal photo ID. Credit Cards
¨¨Many top-end hotels charge upwards of €10 ¨¨International credit and debit cards can be
per day for access. used in any ATM displaying the appropriate
sign. Visa and MasterCard are among the most
widely recognised, but others such as Cirrus
and Maestro are also well covered.

125

Italy Travel Guide Opening Hours Tipping Guide branches 8am to 2pm weekdays, 8.30am to
noon Saturday.
Taxis Round the fare up to the near- Restaurants Noon to 3pm and 7.30pm to
est euro. 11pm; sometimes later in summer and in the
Restaurants Many locals don’t tip south. Kitchens often shut an hour earlier than
waiters, but most visitors leave 10% if final closing time; most places close at least
there’s no service charge. one day a week.
Cafes Leave a coin (as little as €0.10 is Shops 9am to 1pm and 3.30pm to 7.30pm
acceptable) if you drank your coffee at (or 4pm to 8pm) weekdays. In larger cities,
the counter, or 10% if you sat at a table. department stores and supermarkets typically
Hotels Bellhops usually expect €1 to open 9am to 7.30pm or 10am to 8pm Monday
€2 per bag; it’s not necessary to tip the to Saturday, some also on Sunday.
concierge, cleaners or front-desk staff.
PUBLIC HOLIDAYS
¨¨Only some banks give cash advances over
the counter, so you’re better off using ATMs. Individual towns have public holidays to
¨¨Cards are good for paying in most hotels, res- celebrate the feasts of their patron saints.
taurants, shops, supermarkets and toll booths. National public holidays:
Some cheaper pensioni, trattorias and pizzerias Capodanno (New Year’s Day) 1 January
only accept cash. Don’t rely on credit cards at Epifania (Epiphany) 6 January
museums or galleries. Pasquetta (Easter Monday) March/April
¨¨Check any charges with your bank. Most Giorno della Liberazione (Liberation Day)
banks now build a fee of around 2.75% into 25 April
every foreign transaction. Also, ATM withdraw- Festa del Lavoro (Labour Day) 1 May
als can attract a further fee, usually around Festa della Repubblica (Republic Day)
1.5%. 2 June
¨¨In an emergency, call to have your card blocked: Festa dei Santi Pietro e Paolo (Feast of
Amex (%06 7290 0347 or your national call St Peter & St Paul) 29 June
number) Ferragosto (Feast of the Assumption)
Diners Club (%800 393939) 15 August
MasterCard (%800 870866) Festa di Ognisanti (All Saints’ Day)
Visa (%800 819014) 1 November

Moneychangers Festa dell’Immacolata Concezione
You can change money in banks, at post (Feast of the Immaculate Conception)
offices or at a cambio (exchange office). 8 December
Post offices and banks tend to offer the Natale (Christmas Day) 25 December
best rates; exchange offices keep longer Festa di Santo Stefano (Boxing Day)
hours, but watch for high commissions and 26 December
inferior rates.
SAFE TRAVEL
OPENING HOURS
Italy is a safe country but petty theft can
Banks 8.30am to 1.30pm and 2.45pm to be a problem. There’s no need for paranoia
4.30pm Monday to Friday. but be aware that thieves and pickpockets
Bars & Cafes 7.30am to 8pm, sometimes operate in touristy areas, so watch out
until 1am or 2am. when exploring the sights in Rome, Flor-
Clubs 10pm to 4am. ence, Venice, Naples etc.
Post Offices Main offices 8am to 7pm
Monday to Friday, 8.30am to noon Saturday; Cars, particularly those with foreign
number plates or rental-company stickers,
provide rich pickings for thieves – see p401.

In case of theft or loss, report the inci-
dent to the police within 24 hours and ask
for a statement. Some tips:

126

¨¨Keep essentials in a money belt but carry not with North American GSM 1900 or the Italy Travel Guide Telephone
your day’s spending money in a separate wallet. totally different Japanese system.
¨¨Wear your bag/camera strap across your ¨¨Most smart phones are multiband, mean-
body and away from the road – thieves on ing that they are compatible with a variety
mopeds can swipe a bag and be gone in seconds. of international networks. Check with your
¨¨Never drape your bag over an empty chair at a service provider to make sure it is compatible
street-side cafe or put it where you can’t see it. and beware of calls being routed internation-
¨¨Always check your change to see you haven’t ally (very expensive for a ‘local’ call). In many
been short changed. cases you’re better off buying an Italian phone
or unlocking your phone for use with an Italian
TELEPHONE SIM card.
¨¨If you have a GSM multiband phone that you
Domestic Calls can unlock, it can cost as little as €10 to acti-
¨¨Italian telephone area codes all begin with 0 vate a prepaid SIM card in Italy. TIM (Telecom
and consist of up to four digits. Area codes are Italia Mobile; www.tim.it), Wind (www.wind.
an integral part of all Italian phone numbers it) and Vodafone (www.vodafone.it) offer
and must be dialled even when calling locally. SIM cards and have retail outlets across Italy.
¨¨Mobile-phone numbers are nine or 10 digits You’ll usually need your passport to open an
and have a three-digit prefix starting with a 3. account.
¨¨Toll-free (free-phone) numbers are known as ¨¨Once you’re set up with a SIM card, you can
numeri verdi and usually start with 800. easily purchase recharge cards (allowing you
¨¨Non-geographical numbers start with 840, to top up your account with extra minutes) at
841, 848, 892, 899, 163, 166 or 199. Some six- tobacconists and news stands, as well as some
digit national rate numbers are also in use (such bars, supermarkets and banks.
as those for Alitalia, rail and postal information).
Payphones & Phonecards
International Calls ¨¨You’ll find payphones on the streets, in train
¨¨To call Italy from abroad, call the international stations and in Telecom offices. Most accept
access number (%011 in the USA, %00 from only carte/schede telefoniche (phonecards),
most other countries), Italy’s country code although some accept credit cards.
(%39) and then the area code of the location ¨¨Telecom offers a range of prepaid cards; for
you want, including the leading 0. a full list, see www.telecomitalia.it/telefono/
¨¨The cheapest options for calling internation- carte-telefoniche.
ally are free or low-cost computer programs ¨¨You can buy phonecards at post offices,
such as Skype, cut-rate call centres and inter- tobacconists and news stands.
national calling cards.
¨¨Cut-price call centres can be found in all of Important Numbers
the main cities, and rates can be considerably
lower than from Telecom payphones. Italy country code (%39)
¨¨Another alternative is to use a direct-dialling International access code (%00)
service such as AT&T’s USA Direct (access Police (%113)
number %800 172444) or Telstra’s Australia Carabinieri (military police; %112)
Direct (access number %800 172610), which Ambulance (%118)
allows you to make a reverse-charge (collect) Fire (%115)
call at home-country rates. Roadside assistance (%803 116
¨¨To make a reverse-charge international call from a landline or mobile with an
from a public telephone, dial %170. Italian provider; %800 116800 from
a foreign mobile phone)
Mobile Phones (Cell Phones)
¨¨Italy uses GSM 900/1800, which is compat-
ible with the rest of Europe and Australia but

127

Italy Travel Guide Toilets TOILETS TRAVELLERS WITH DISABILITIES

¨¨Public toilets are thin on the ground in Italy. Italy is not an easy country for travellers
You’ll find them in autostrada service stations with disabilities. Cobbled streets, blocked
(generally free) and in main train stations pavements and tiny lifts cause problems for
(usually with a small fee of between €0.50 wheelchair users. Not a lot has been done to
and €1). make life easier for the deaf or blind, either.
¨¨Often, the best thing is to nip into a cafe or
bar, although you’ll probably have to order a A handful of cities publish general
quick drink first. guides on accessibility, among them Bolog­
¨¨Keep some tissues to hand as loo paper is na, Milan, Padua, Reggio Emilia, Turin,
rare. Venice and Verona. Contact the relevant
tourist authorities for further information.
TOURIST INFORMATION Other helpful resources:
Handy Turismo (www.handyturismo.it)
Practically every village, town and city Information on Rome.
in Italy has a tourist office of sorts. Milano per Tutti (www.milanopertutti.it)
These operate under a variety of names: Covers Milan.
Azienda di Promozione Turistica (APT), Lonely Planet’s free Accessible Travel guide
Azienda Autonoma di Soggiorno e Tu- can be downloaded here: http://lptravel.to/
rismo (AAST), Informazione e Assistenza AccessibleTravel.
ai Turisti (IAT) and Pro Loco. All deal
directly with the public and most will re- Useful organisations:
spond to written and tele­phone requests Accessible Italy (www.accessibleitaly.com)
for information. Specialises in holiday services for travellers with
disabilities. This is the best first port of call.
Tourist offices can usually provide a Consorzio Cooperative Integrate
city map, lists of hotels and information (www.coinsociale.it) This Rome-based or-
on the major sights. In larger towns and ganisation provides information on the capital
major tourist areas, English is usually (including transport and access) and is happy
spoken. to share its contacts throughout Italy. Its
Presidio del Lazio (www.presidiolazio.it)
Main offices are generally open Monday program seeks to improve access for tourists
to Friday; some also open on weekends, with disabilities.
especially in urban areas and in peak sum- Tourism for All (www.tourismforall.org.uk)
mer season. Info booths (at train stations, This UK-based group has information on hotels
for example) may keep slightly different with access for guests with disabilities, where
hours. to hire equipment and tour operators dealing
with travellers with disabilities.
Tourist Authorities
The Italian National Tourist Office VISAS
(ENIT; www.enit.it) maintains international
offices. See the website for contact details. ¨¨EU citizens do not need a visa for Italy.
¨¨Residents of 28 non-EU countries, including
Regional tourist authorities are more Australia, Brazil, Canada, Israel, Japan, New
concerned with planning, marketing and Zealand and the USA, do not require visas for
promotion than with offering a public infor- tourist visits of up to 90 days.
mation service. However, they offer useful ¨¨Italy is one of the 15 signatories of the Schen-
websites, such as: gen Convention. The standard tourist visa for a
Emilia-Romagna (www.emiliaromagna Schengen country is valid for 90 days. You must
turismo.it) apply for it in your country of residence and you
Lazio (www.ilmiolazio.it) cannot apply for more than two in any 12-month
Piedmont (www.piemonteitalia.eu) period. They are not renewable within Italy.
Tuscany (www.turismo.intoscana.it) ¨¨For full details of Italy’s visa requirements
Umbria (www.regioneumbria.eu) check www.esteri.it/visti/home_eng.asp.
Veneto (www.veneto.to)

Other useful websites include www.italia.it
and www.easy-italia.com.

128

Language

Italian sounds can all be found in English. If you read our coloured pronunciation guides as if
they were English, you’ll be understood. Note that ai is pronounced as in ‘aisle’, ay as in ‘say’,
ow as in ‘how’, dz as the ‘ds’ in ‘lids’, and that r is strong and rolled. If the consonant is written
as a double letter, it’s pronounced a little stronger, eg sonno son·no (sleep) versus sono so·no
(I am). The stressed syllables are indicated with italics.

BASICS EATING & DRINKING

Hello. Buongiorno. bwon·jor·no What would you recommend?
Goodbye. Arrivederci. a·ree·ve·der·chee Cosa mi consiglia? ko·za mee kon·see·lya
Yes./No. Sì./No. see/no
Excuse me. Mi scusi. mee skoo·zee I’d like …, please.
Sorry. Mi dispiace. mee dees·pya·che Vorrei …, per favore. vo·ray … per fa·vo·re
Please. Per favore. per fa·vo·re
Thank you. Grazie. gra·tsye I don’t eat (meat).
Non mangio (carne). non man·jo (kar·ne)

Please bring the bill.
Mi porta il conto, mee por·ta eel kon·to
per favore? per fa·vo·re

You’re welcome. pre·go EMERGENCIES
Prego.

Do you speak English?
Parli inglese? par·lee een·gle·ze
Help!
I don’t understand. Aiuto! a·yoo·to
Non capisco. non ka·pee·sko I’m lost. mee so·no per·so/a
Mi sono perso/a. (m/f) mee sen·to ma·le
How much is this? I’m ill. kya·mee la po·lee·tsee·a
Quanto costa questo? kwan·to kos·ta kwe·sto Mi sento male. kya·mee oon me·dee·ko
Call the police!
ACCOMMODATION Chiami la polizia!
Call a doctor!
Do you have a room? Chiami un medico!
Avete una camera? a·ve·te oo·na ka·me·ra

How much is it per night/person?
Quanto costa per kwan·to kos·ta per
una notte/persona? oo·na no·te/per·so·na
Want More?
DIRECTIONS
For in-depth language information
Where’s …? do·ve … and handy phrases, check out Lonely
Dov’è …? Planet’s Italian Phrasebook. You’ll
find it at shop.lonelyplanet.com, or
Can you show me (on the map)? you can buy Lonely Planet’s iPhone
Può mostrarmi pwo mos·trar·mee phrasebooks at the Apple App Store.

(sulla pianta)? (soo·la pyan·ta)

129

windscreen petrol
parabrezza benzina
pa·ra·bre·dza ben·dzee·na
battery
batteria
ba·te·ree·a

engine
motore
mo·to·re

headlight tyre
fanale gomma
fa·na·le
go·ma

ON THE ROAD Does that include mileage?
E’ compreso il e kom·pre·so eel
chilometraggio? kee·lo·me·tra·jo
I’d like to Vorrei vo·ray
hire a/an ... noleggiare ... no·le·ja·re ...
What’s the city/country speed limit?
Qual’è il limite di kwa·le eel lee·mee·te dee
4WD un fuoristrada oon fwo·ree·stra·da velocità in ve·lo·chee·ta een

automatic/ una macchina oo·na ma·kee·na città/campagna? chee·ta/kam·pa·nya
manual automatica/ ow·to·ma·tee·ka/
manuale ma·noo·a·le Is this the road to (Venice)?
Questa strada porta kwe·sta stra·da por·ta
motorbike una moto oo·na mo·to a (Venezia)? a (ve·ne·tsya)

How much Quanto kwan·to (How long) Can I park here?
is it …? costa ...? kos·ta ... (Per quanto tempo) (per kwan·to tem·po)
Posso parcheggiare qui? po·so par·ke·ja·re kwee
daily al giorno al jor·no
Where’s a service station?
weekly alla settimana a·la se·tee·ma·na Dov’è una stazione do·ve oo·na sta·tsyo·ne
di servizio? dee ser·vee·tsyo
Does that include insurance?
E’ compresa e kom·pre·sa
l’assicurazione? la·see·koo·ra·tsyo·ne Please fill it up.
Il pieno, per favore. eel pye·no per fa·vo·re

I’d like (30) litres. vo·ray (tren·ta) lee·tree
Vorrei (trenta) litri.

Signs Please check the oil/water.
Può controllare l’olio/ pwo kon·tro·la·re lo·lyo/
Alt Stop l’acqua, per favore? la·kwa per fa·vo·re

Dare la Precedenza Give Way I need a mechanic. o bee·zo·nyo dee oon
Ho bisogno di un
Deviazione Detour meccanico. me·ka·nee·ko

Divieto di Accesso No Entry The car/motorbike has broken down.

Entrata Entrance La macchina/moto si la ma·kee·na/mo·to see

Pedaggio Toll è guastata. e gwas·ta·ta

Senso Unico One Way I had an accident.
Ho avuto un
Uscita Exit incidente. o a·voo·to oon
een·chee·den·te

130

©Lone- ly Planet Publications Pty Ltd

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ACKNOWLEDGMENTS THIS BOOK

Climate map data adapted from Peel MC, Finlayson This 1st edition of Grand Tour of Italy Road Trips
BL & McMahon TA (2007) ‘Updated World Map was researched and written by Cristian Bonetto,
of the Köppen-Geiger Climate Classification’, Duncan Garwood, Paula Hardy, Donna Wheeler and
Hydrology and Earth System Sciences, 11, 1633­44. Nicola Williams. This guidebook was produced by
the following:
Cover photographs
Destination Editor Anna Tyler
Front: On the road to Badia a Passignano, Stefano
Amantini/4Corners © Product Editor Vicky Smith

Back: Roman ruins in Rome, S.Borisov/ Senior Cartographers Anthony Phelan,
Shutterstock © Valentina Kremenchutskaya

Book Designers Michael Buick, Katherine Marsh

Assisting Editors Imogen Bannister, Kate
Mathews, Tracy Whitmey

Assisting Book Designer Kerrianne Jenkins

Cover Researcher Naomi Parker

Thanks to Joel Cotterell, Brendan Dempsey,
Grace Dobell, Kirsten Rawlings, Angela Tinson

OUR STORY

A beat-up old car, a few dollars in the pocket
and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony
and Maureen Wheeler needed for the trip of a
lifetime – across Europe and Asia overland to
Australia. It took several months, and at the end –
broke but inspired – they sat at their kitchen table
writing and stapling together their first travel guide,
Across Asia on the Cheap. Within a week they’d sold
1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born.
Today, Lonely Planet has offices in Franklin, London, Melbourne, Oakland, Beijing
and Delhi, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony’s belief that ‘a great
guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse’.

131

INDEX

A Basilica di San Giovanni in Castel Gandolfo 33
Laterano 59
accommodation 15, 122‑3, see cell phones 15, 127
also individual locations Basilica di San Marco 23,
77, 81 Cervo Alta 51
agriturismi 123
air travel 121 Basilica di San Petronio 25 churches & cathedrals, see
Alassio 50 Basilica di also basilicas
archaeological sites & ruins
Santa Chiara 104 Cappella Brancacci 44, 68
Campi Flegrei 28, 108 Basilica di Santa Maria
Colosseum 27, 56 Cappella degli Scrovegni 86
Napoli Sotterranea 106 Assunta 81
Palatino 56 Basilica di Santa Maria Cappella Sansevero 104
Pompeii 28, 112‑13
Roman Forum 56 della Salute 23, 81 Cattedrale di Nostra
Scavi Archeologici Basilica di Santa Maria in Signora Assunta 49

di Ostia Antica 33 Trastevere 59 Cattedrale di San Donato 43
Tunnel Borbonico 105 Basilica di Sant’Antonio
Via Appia Antica 60 Cattedrale di San Giovanni
architecture 44 23, 87 Evangelista 42
area codes 127 St Peter’s Basilica 27, 57
Arezzo 42‑3 bathrooms 128 Chiesa di Santa Maria dei
art 44, see also individual beaches 99 Miracoli 81
artists, museums & bicycle travel 52
galleries boat travel 121‑2 Duomo (Florence) 26, 66
ATMs 125 Boccadasse 99
autostradas 117 Bologna 25‑6 Duomo (Naples) 105
border crossings 116‑17
B Botticelli, Sandro 44 Duomo (Padua) 87
Bramante, Donato 44
basilicas, see also churches Brunelleschi, Filippo 44 Duomo di San Giovanni 91
& cathedrals budget 15
Basilica di San Francesco’s Burano 82 Oratorio di San Giorgio &
Cappella Bacci 42 business hours 127 Scoletta del Santo 87

000 Map pages C Pantheon 27, 57

Campi Flegrei 28, 108 Pieve di Santa Maria 42
car travel, see driving
Carnevale 23, 82 Russian Orthodox church
(San Remo) 51

Scuola di San Giorgio degli
Schiavoni 81

climate 14

Colosseum 27, 56

cooking courses 58, 84

costs 15, 126

courses

cooking 58, 84

wine tasting 60

132

credit cards 125‑6 food 71‑3 L INDEX C-M
currency 14, 125 museum tickets 67, 69
cycling 52 parking 12, 76 La Biennale di Venezia 83
shopping 74‑5 language 14, 129‑30
D sights 66‑9 l’entroterra 52
tourist information 75-6 lesbian travellers 124
da Vinci, Leonardo 22, 44 tours 69 Limited Traffic Zones 118
dangers 117‑18, 120, 126 travel to/from 76
David 44, 68 food 15, 124, see also M
della Francesca, Piero 39‑45 individual locations
disabilities, travellers with 128 cooking courses 58, 84 maps 117
driving 115‑20 Slow Food Movement 94, 99 markets
tripe 72
car hire 115‑16 Fortezza del Priamàr 49 Campo Rialto Mercato 23
documents 115 Frascati 33‑4 Friday market
driving licence 115 fuel 14, 120
fuel 14, 120 (Ventimiglia) 52
insurance 115, 118, 120 G Mercato Centrale 74
Limited Traffic Zones 118 Mercato Nuovo 74
maps 117 galleries, see museums & Noli 50
parking 11, 12, 13, 76, 119 galleries Pescaria 23
road distances 119 Salone dell’Agroalimentare
road rules 116, 118‑19 gardens
safety 117‑18, 120, 127 Giardini Botanici Ligure 50
websites 117 Hanbury 52 Savona market 49
Duomo (Florence) 26, 66 Orto Botanico 87 medical services 125
Duomo (Naples) 105 Villa Aldobrandini 34 Michelangelo 44, 68
Duomo (Padua) 87 Villa d’Este 36 Milan 22
Duomo di San Giovanni 91 mobile phones 15, 127
DVDs 122 gas 14, 120 monasteries
gay travellers 124 Certosa e Museo di San
E Genoa 22, 48‑9, 98-103,
Martino 105
electricity 123-4 100‑1 Complesso Monumentale
emergencies 14, 127
H di Santa Chiara 104-5
F Monastery of
health 125
festivals & events 23, 69, 82, holidays 126 St Benedict 36
83, 93 Monastery of
I
Finale Ligure 49 St Scholastica 36
Florence 12, 26, 66‑76, 68, 70 Imperia 50‑1 money 14, 15, 64, 69, 97,
insurance 115, 118, 125, 130
accommodation 69‑71 internet access 15, 125 125‑6
discount cards 69 Italian language 129‑30 Monterchi 42
drinking & nightlife 73‑4 motorcycle travel 116‑17
entertainment 74 J Mt Vesuvius 28, 112‑13
festivals & events 69 Murano 81, 82
Joust of the Saracino 43 museums & galleries 67, 69

Capitoline Museums 27,
56-7

Casa dei Tre Oci 81

133

INDEX M-S Certosa e Museo di San Vatican Museums 27, 58 Palazzo Reale di
Martino 105 music 120 Capodimonte 105

Galleria degli Uffizi 26, N Palazzo Spinola 22
44, 67 Palazzo Vecchio 66‑7
Naples 28, 104‑112, 106 Villa d’Este 36
Galleria dell’Accademia accommodation 107‑109 Palazzo del Bò (university)
(Florence) 26, 68 discount cards 105, 110 22, 87
drinking & nightlife 110 Palestrina 34
Galleria Nazionale delle entertainment 110 parking 11, 12, 13, 76, 119
Marche 41 festivals & events 107 Passo di Bocca Trabaria 41
food 109 petrol 14, 120
Gallerie dell’Accademia medical services 111 Piazza di Spagna 27, 57
(Venice) 23, 80 shopping 110‑11 planning 14‑15, 115-28, see
sights 104‑105 also driving
Musei Civici agli tourist information 111 Pompeii 28, 112‑13
Eremitani 86 tours 105‑107 Ponte Vecchio 69
travel to/from 111 public holidays 126
Museo Archeologico travel within 111-12
Nazionale (Naples) 28 R
Nobel, Alfred 52
Museo Archeologico Noli 50 radio 120
Nazionale di Raphael 41, 44
Palestrina 34 O Renaissance art &

Museo Civico 42 opening 127 architecture 44
Ostia Antica 32‑3 road distances 119
Museo del Bargello 67 road rules 116, 118‑19
P Roman Forum 56
Museo del Vetro 81-2 Rome 10‑11, 26‑8, 56‑65, 58
Padua 22‑3, 86‑9, 88
Museo della Madonna palaces accommodation 61
del Parto 42 courses 60
Borghese Palace 27 discount cards 64
Museo dell’Olio 50 Palazzi dei Rolli 98 food 62
Palazzo Borsa 49 orientation 64
Museo di San Marco 44, 68 Palazzo della Ragione 87 parking 11
Palazzo Ducale shopping 63‑4
Museo e Galleria sights 56‑60
Borghese 59-60 (Genoa) 49 tourist information 64
Palazzo Ducale tours 60
Museo Egizio 90 travel to/from 64‑5
(Urbino) 41 Romulus & Remus 60
Museo Nazionale Romano: Palazzo Ducale
Palazzo Massimo S
alle Terme 59 (Venice) 23, 77
Palazzo Grassi 80 safety 117‑18, 120, 126-7
Museo Novecento 68 Palazzo Poggi 25 San Giorgio 51
Palazzo Pontificio 33
Palazzo Ducale (Venice) Palazzo Reale (Turin) 21
23, 41, 77 Palazzo Reale (Genoa) 22

Palazzo Grassi 80

Palazzo Poggi 25

Palazzo Reale di
Capodimonte 105

Palazzo Vecchio 66‑7

Palazzo Zuckermann 87

Peggy Guggenheim
Collection 80-1

Pinacoteca Nazionale 26

Scuola Grande di San
Rocco 81

000 Map pages

134

San Remo 51‑2 train travel 122 food 83‑4 INDEX S-W
Sansepolcro 41‑2 transport 15, 121‑22, see La Biennale 83
Savona 49 parking 13
Scrovegni Chapel 23 also driving shopping 85‑6
Scuola Grande di tripe 72 sights 77‑82
Turin 20‑2, 90‑103, 92 tourist information 86
San Rocco 81 tours 84
Shroud of Turin 91 accommodation 93‑4 travel to/from 86
Slow Food Movement 94, 99 beaches 99 travel within 86
smoking 122 discount cards 97 Ventimiglia 52
Spanish Steps, the 57 drinking & nightlife 95‑6 Vesuvius 28, 112‑13
St Peter’s Basilica 27, 57 festivals & events 93 Via Appia Antica 60
Subiaco 36 food 94‑5 Villa Adriana 35‑6
tourist information 97 Villa Aldobrandini 34
T tours 93 Villa d’Este 36
travel to/from 97 Villa Lante 26
Teatro Carlo Felice 49 travel within 97 Villa Nobel 52
Teatro La Fenice 23, 80 TV 122 visas 14, 128
Teatro San Carlo 28 Viterbo 26
telephone services 15, 127‑8 U
Terme dei Papi 26 W
The Last Supper 22 Urbino 40‑1
theft 126 weather 14
time 122 V websites 15, 117
tipping 15, 126 wifi 15, 125
Titian 81 Venice 13, 23, 77-86, 78‑9 wine
Tivoli 36 accommodation 83
toilets 128 activities 82 classification 125
tourist information 75-6, 86, Carnevale 23, 82 courses 60
courses 84 festivals & events 107
97, 128 drinking 84‑5
festivals & events 23, 82‑3

135

OUR PAULA HARDY
WRITERS From Lido beaches to an-
nual Biennales and spritz-
CRISTIAN BONETTO fuelled aperitivo bars, Paula
Thanks to his Italo- has contributed to Lonely
Australian heritage, Cristian Planet’s Italian guides for
gets to experience the bel over 15 years, including
paese (beautiful country) Venice & the Veneto, Pocket Milan, The
as both a local and an out- Italian Lakes, Sicily, Sardinia and Puglia &
sider. His musings on Italian Basilicata. When she’s not scooting around
cuisine, culture and style have appeared in the bel paese, she writes for a variety of travel
media across the globe and his contributions publications and websites. Currently she
for Lonely Planet include more than 30 travel divides her time between London, Italy and
guide editions, including Naples & the Amalfi Morocco, and tweets her finds @paula6hardy.
Coast, Venice & the Veneto, Denmark, New York DONNA WHEELER
City and Singapore. Follow Cristian on Twitter Italy’s border regions are
(@CristianBonetto) and Instagram (rexcat75). Donna Wheeler’s dream
DUNCAN GARWOOD assignment: Alps, the sea,
A Brit travel writer based complex histories, plus
in the Castelli Romani hills spectacular wine and food.
just outside Rome, Duncan Donna has lived in Turin’s
has clocked up endless Quadrilatero Romano and Genoa’s centro
kilometres walking around storico and been an Italian-by-marriage
the Italian capital and ex- for almost two decades. A former commis-
ploring the far-flung reaches of the surround- sioning editor and content strategist, she’s
ing Lazio region. He’s co-author of the Rome written guidebooks to Italy, France, Tunisia,
city guide and has worked on the past six Algeria, Norway and Belgium and publishes
editions of the Italy guide as well as guides on art, architecture, history and food for
to Piedmont, Sicily, Sardinia, and Naples and LonelyPlanet.com, BBC.com Travel, National
the Amalfi Coast. He has also written on Italy Geographic Traveler and My Art Guides. She
for newspapers and magazines. is also the creative director of travel maga-
zine She Came to Stay.
NICOLA WILLIAMS
British writer Nicola
Williams lives on the
southern shore of Lake
Geneva. Thankfully for
her Italianate soul, it is an
easy hop through the Mont
Blanc Tunnel to Italy where she has spent
years eating her way around and revelling in
its extraordinary art, architecture, cuisine and
landscape. Hunting Tuscan white truffles in
October is an annual family ritual. Nicola has
worked on numerous titles for Lonely Planet,
including those covering Italy, Milan, Turin &
Genoa, and Piedmont. She shares her travels
on Twitter @Tripalong.

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1st edition – Jun 2016 able care in preparing this book, we make no warranty about
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