KL book copy

Title page

Message from president

Message from Chairman

Preface

Table of Content

1. History of KL - Prof EZRIN
2. History of KL – Nadge
3. Java Street – Mariana
4. Conservation of KL - NHH
5. HUBBACK - Ayu
6. History of Mosque – Ayu
7. Masjid Jamek – Ar Wan
8. Masjid JAMEK Picture – NHH
9. Analysis of Mosque – Najmi













































Arthur Bennison Hubback

During his lifetime, Arthur Bennison Hubback, architect, soldier and sportsman, would have not probably thought that he would leave such a
great legacy in the little South-East Asian country that he was serving; let alone, in his subtle way, influence the way the people of its capital
live, through the way he designed the architecture masterpieces that were commissioned to him. To many of us, even those who are
interested in the history of the country, Hubback was just another of the British officials serving in Malaya, specializing in his field, namely
architecture.

Though there is no exact information on the number of buildings that he had designed throughout his 24-year career span in Malaya, at least
30 buildings have been identified, to have either fully or collaboratively designed by Hubback. These buildings can be found scattered across
Selangor (of which Kuala Lumpur was its state capital at the time), Perak, Penang and Negeri Sembilan. Out of these 30 buildings, 14 have been
listed as National Heritage, while one was sadly bombed, and another demolished.

As the capital for the Federated Malay States, Kuala Lumpur is home to fifteen of Hubback’s architectural masterpieces, minus the bombed and
demolished buildings. These buildings include Bangunan Sultan Abdul Samad (1892 - NH), the Federal Secretariat / Old Government Printing
Office (1899 - NH), Carcosa Seri Negara (1901 - NH), Istana Mahkota Puri, Klang (1903 - demolished), Municipal Office & Town Hall (1904 - NH),
the F.M.S. Railway Central Office (1905 - NH), Selangor Museum (1906 – bombed 1945), Federal Postal Office / Old Post Office (1907 - NH),
Shophouses at Medan Pasar (1908), Masjid Jamek (1909 – NH), Old Chartered Bank (1909 – NH), Old Railway Station (1910 –NH), extension of
the Royal Selangor Club (1910), the F.M.S. Survey Office (1910 – NH), the White House of Klang, Klang (1911 – NH), Supreme Court (1915 –
NH), and the Malayan Railway Administration Building (1917 – NH)

After Selangor, Perak is the second state that has a number of buildings designed by Hubback, all of which are still standing until today. In Kuala
Kangsar, we can find Istana Hulu Bukit Chandan, which was built in 1903, the prestigious residential school complex – the Malay College Kuala
Kangsar, consisting the Big School, built in 1909 and listed as a National Heritage, as well as the Preparatory School, which was built two years
later. Apart from these two, Masjid Ubudiah, completed in 1917, is a pride and joy of the people in Kuala Kangsar. It is one of the 14 of
Hubback’s buildings listed as National Heritage. In Ipoh, his buildings include the Residence for the High Commissioner, completed in 1906 and
was later turned into a school known as Sekolah Perempuan Raja Kalsom, the Old Anderson Boys’ School (1910), Town Hall & Old Post Office
(1916), Ipoh Supreme Court (1917), and Ipoh Railway Station (1920). Hubback was also the architect for the Federal Lunatic Asylum, completed
in 1911 and located in Tanjung Rambutan, just outside Ipoh.

His only identified building in Penang is the Terminal Offices of the Malayan Railways, which built in 1907 and is currently known as Wisma
Kastam. While in Negeri Sembilan, Hubback is famous for his two buildings, namely the British Residency and the old Police Station, currently
housing the State Secretariat, both of which are located in Seremban and were completed in 1912. The State Secretariat is listed as a National
Heritage.

Hubback’s life in Malaya was filled with little anecdotes, of the people and places, that he had had the privilege of meeting and visiting. It was
full of colour and details, of his discovery, expectation, hopes and exploration of this land that was once a British colony – highlighting his
contribution to the city of Kuala Lumpur and the life that revolved around it. With detailed highlights on some of his architectural
masterpieces, this chapter tells the story of his time in Malaya – an incidence that was embellished by other supporting characters, a presence
that is much appreciated and honoured.

Early life
Born on April 13, 1781, at no 74 Roadney Street, Liverpool, Hubback was the first of three boys, to Joseph Hubback and his third wife,
Georgina. His father was a respectable person at the time; a merchant by profession, while serving as the Lord Mayor of the Borough of
Liverpool. His mother Georgina, was born Elliot-Lockhart, and there was no information on her maiden name. The family was blessed with the
birth of Theodore Rathbone Hubback on December 17, a year after Hubback was born, and ten years later, with George Cray Hubback, on April
7.

The year 1883 was a sad year for the family, as Joseph Hubback passed away, leaving his wife to raise the three boys. A bright child, Hubback
was offered a scholarship to attend Fettes College in Edinburgh, a co-ed school, where he became a boarder for five years, from 1884-87. His
father’s demise has not dampened his spirits in pursuing his dream of becoming an architect.

Journey in the architecture scene

6 June 1887, Hubback was articled to Mr. Thomas Shelmerdine, the City Architect and Surveyor of Liverpool, who was also renowned for being
the youngest to be appointed to the post, at the age of 26, which coincided with the year that Hubback was born. It was a scheme known as
the Internship for Architectural Articleship, a combination of formal studies with employment, under the city architect in Liverpool, an
alternative way of seeking formal education for an Architecture Degree, which was available at the time. Three years into the articleship, he
was appointed as an Assistant in the City Architect and Surveyor Office of Liverpool, on June 6, 1890.

Having offered and accepted the post of a Chief Draftsman at the Selangor Public Works Department under a 3-year contract, Hubback had left
the United Kingdom for Malaya on May 30, 1895. At that particular time, the department was led by A C Norman, as the Government
Architect, and was working on a building, intended to house government offices, known as Bangunan Sultan Abdul Samad. Though his
involvement was not as significant as the other two architects, this was Hubback’s first project in Malaya.

It is believed that Bangunan Sultan Abdul Samad is the first administrative built by the British government. Named after Sultan Sir Abdul
Samad ibni Almarhum Raja Abdullah, the building took two years and seven months to be completed. The ground breaking ceremony has
taken place on October 6, 1894, with the foundation stone laid by Sir Charles Mitchell, the Governor of the Straits Settlement. The
construction cost of the building was $152,000. In 1897, the clock chimed for the first time to coincide with Queen Victoria’s Diamond Jubilee.

Its original design was a joint effort by A. C. Norman and R. A. J. Bidwell, in a Classic Renaissance Style. However, it was mentioned in a number
of resources that A. C. Norman’s contribution was mainly on the floor plan, while the elevation was developed by R. A. J. Bidwell in Indo-
Saracenic style. This coincided with expiry of Norman’s privilege leave. Bidwell, who was the Chief Draughtsman at the time, left the Public
Work Department in June, to join a private practice in Singapore, leaving the post to be filled by Hubback, as per the contract.

Hubback arrived in Klang on July 5, 1895, the time at which the post of State Architect has been abolished, leaving Hubback to perform the duties
of the State Architect, as well as fulfilling the roles of the Chief Draftsman. Amongst the first assignments entrusted to him was a site visit to Sungai
Ujong, as Seremban in Negeri Sembilan was known then, together with Bellamy, who was the Deputy State Engineer, and Paxow, a hydraulic
engineer. Looking at the amount of work, as well as his performance, C E Spooner, the State Engineer, has made recommendations for Hubback to
be appointed as an Acting-Architect in addition to his duties as the Chief Draftsman, entitling him to half of the remuneration for each
appointment from July 5 onwards. This was made official on August 23 the same year.

Though most time, his work involved meeting and dealing with people from home, fellow British officials working in the country, Hubback had had
some encounters with the locals, one of which was with Abdullah Munshi, Father of the Malay Literature, who was known for being cynical about
the Malays and their lives. Being a fluent English speaker, Abdullah Munshi was appointed to teach Hubback the Malay Language, an arrangement
that was made with an allowance of $10 per month, so that Hubback could master the local language – following Notification No. 195 in the
Selangor Government Gazette, dated April 13, 1894. In fact, Hubback was not Abdullah Munshi’s only pupil, as the latter as well as his father, were
famous teachers and translators amongst the British officials serving in Malaya.

It was not long until Hubback was joined by his brother, Theodore Rathbone Hubback, who arrived the same year on December 21, and took the
position of a District Engineer in Selangor Public Works Department. The beginning of the year 1896 saw some development in Kuala Lumpur, such
as in the opening of Kuala Lumpur’s waterworks. In the same year, Hubback has taken medical leave twice – first for a rupture of his muscle, which
was probably due sport (17-18 February); and a longer one due to sinus (15-30 June). On September 9, Hubback has made an application for an
extra pay as an architect.

The year was also an important one in the history of the country, as on July 1, the Treaty of Federation was signed, and Kuala Lumpur was
named as the capital of the Federated Malay States – following the agreement by the rulers of Selangor, Perak, Pahang and Negeri Sembilan to
a federation and centralized administration. This means that the area of coverage of Hubback’s responsibility has increased.

The year 1897 was seen as a very busy one for Hubback, both in his work, as well as in his involvement in sports. Workwise, it began with
Hubback being granted an allowance of $25 a month for his architectural service, effective February 22. Four days after that, he was sent on an
assignment to Kuala Lipis, mainly involving the supervision of the construction of the last section of the Selangor-Pahang Trunk Road. Not a
week after that, he was entrusted with the responsibility to oversee the construction of the Federal Secretariat or the Old Government Printing
Office in Kuala Lumpur, for which he received the Horse Allowance on March 15.

The Federal Secretariat or the Old Government Printing Office was built to cater for the rising printing needs of the growing administrative
capital of the FMS. It was meant to replace an older printing office in Taiping, Perak, which was closed down earlier. Located at lot number 27,
Jalan Raja, Kuala Lumpur, it was built to house large printing machines and was addition to the growing number of administrative buildings
within its vicinity. It was completed in the year 1899.

The final quarter of the year 1897 has been a big move for Hubback, as in September that year, T Groves, the factory engineer from which the
supply for the construction of the Old Government Printing Office was obtained, has decided to go on a long leave, resulting in the vacancy of
his post. Hubback was seen as the most suitable candidate, and he accepted the role without much hesitation. It was indeed a big move, as
due to work demands, he relocated, from the government quarters that he has been sharing with Whitly in Venning Road, to the Factory
Engineer’s Quarters. In December, Hubback decided to end his career with the Selangor Government, which resulted in T P King, the then
Assistant Architect, to be appointed as the Factory Engineer.

Little has been recorded on his stint as a private practitioner, but in May 1898, together with W Nicholas, he ventured into brick making
business, operating from a 3-acre land in Kerling that was rented out for $10 per acre by the Government. On August 22, they submitted a
scheme for a design competition for Singapore’s Headquarters, without bagging any prize. Through mutual terms, they dissolved their
partnership in the brick making company on July 1, 1901, not even three years of operating.

On the same month, Hubback re-joined the government service as a Government Assistant Architect, to the Director of the Public Work
Department of the Federated Malay States. With the appointment, he was in charge of all the architectural work for the Government of the
Federated Malay States. On May 25, 1905, Hubback submitted an application as an associate member to the Royal Institute of British
Architects (RIBA), which was granted to him.



Being one of Hubback’s greatest masterpieces and as the theme of this book suggests, Masjid Jamek Kuala Lumpur should be celebrated not
only for its architecture, but also for its function, which goes beyond that of a place of worship, by bringing people of all walks of life together
as a community. Located at the confluence of the Sungai Gombak and Sungai Klang, it is one of the oldest congregation mosques in the
country. The site on which the mosque sits is believed to have been the early miners’ settlements in the 1850s. The year was 1908 and Kuala
Lumpur was starting to experience growth with the construction of new administrative buildings in the city. As there was a growing number of
Muslim civil servants, it was only natural for the British administrators to provide them with a place of worship within the vicinity of the new
government offices.

After almost eight years of being in the government service, Hubback decided to take a long leave and return to the United Kingdom. Together
with his wife and son, he left the Federated Malay States on March 13, 1909. Prior to that, he has been working on two school projects in
Perak, namely the Malay College Kuala Kangsar (the Big School) in Kuala Kangsar and completed in 1909, as well as the Old Anderson Boys’
School in Ipoh, which was partly constructed during his absence and completed in 1910.

The Malay College Kuala Kangsar is the first boarding school in Malaysia, and is under the royal patronage. Established on January 2, 1905, the
idea for its foundation stemmed from the needs to educate boys from elite Malay families as preparation to join the civil service. It was a
brainchild of Richard James Wilkinson, the school inspector of the Federated Malay States. The founders include Sultan Idris Murshidul Azzam
Shah, the Sultan of Perak; Sultan Alaeddin Suleiman Shah, Sultan of Selangor; Sultan Ahmad Muadzam Shah, Sultan of Pahang; and Yam Tuan
Tunku Muhammad Shah of Negeri Sembilan. Prior to having its permanent building, the school had its inaugural cohort of 40 students, with
William Hargreaves as the first headmaster. It was built on a plot of land bestowed by Sultan Idris. Having gone through a boarding school
system in England, Hubback was the best person to design the building. Built using bricks as the main material, it has the taste of Pseudo-Greco
Roman architecture, with the extensive use of columns and platforms with staircase at the front entrance.

One important aspect of the lives of British officials serving in Malaya, is a clubhouse where they and their wives can meet and mingle with
each other, strengthening the bond amongst them, and as a reminder of their lives back home. The Royal Selangor Club is seen to
accommodate this need. It was the first club funded by the British government in Malaya, and is located in what is known as the European
Quarter, next to Dataran Merdeka. Founded in 1884, it was the oldest sporting institution in Asia. The St. Mary Cathedral, where Hubback and
Daisy were married, was built next to it, as a venue for social and religious activities. Originally forested, the ‘padang’ or field was a good place
to watch cricket, where members can also relax and play billiard at the club, creating a feeling of community away from home. It was
nicknamed ‘the Spotted Dog’, which may be a reflection of the mix-raced membership, or after the Dalmation dogs, that were brought in by
the wives of the officers. Started off as a tiny wooden building with attap roof, its 1890 original design of two-storey permanent structure was
by A.C. Norman. In 1907, electrical lighting and fans were introduced to the building. In 1910, it was redesigned and rebuilt by Hubback with
two additional wings on either side, with W. Nicholas as the contractor. The membership started out exclusively for the colonials, but was later
open to become a multi-racial club, and was determined by education and social status. It also begun to include Malayan high ranking civil
servants. In 1984, the club was bestowed the title ‘Royal’ by the Sultan of Selangor. Architecturally, the building is of a Mock-Tudor style, with
protruding black and white timber framework. In 1904, it consisted of three main parts, of a central area and two wings. The central part is a
general pavilion with a fine balcony at the lower level, offices and tiffin area on top. Each part of the building offered different services, and
members may have access to one, two or all three areas. The south wing consisted of a bar, a card room and billiard rooms, while the north
wing featured reading rooms, ladies’ card room, dancing room and a multifunction room.

Hubback returned with his little family a year after taking the much needed leave, and they arrived in Penang on April 1910. In December
1913, he visited Kowloon, Hong Kong, as part of his management of the Kowloon Central Railway Station Project. Back in the Federated Malay
States, Hubback has also been working on a railway office and station, namely the FMS Railway Central Office and the Old Railway Station
Kuala Lumpur, which have been completed in 1905 and 1910 respectively, both of which have been listed as National Heritage. He was also the
architect for the the Terminal Offices of Malayan Railways in Penang, which was completed in 1905. Upon his return from Hong Kong, and in
response to the growing rail network in the Federated Malay States, he was commissioned with another railway office building in Kuala
Lumpur, and a railway station in Ipoh.

The Malayan Railway Administrative was built in Jalan Sultan Hishamudin, Kuala Lumpur, in response to the growing need of railway lines to
accommodate the increasing demands for tins and rubbers. Two of the reasons for its existence was to realize Frank Swettenham’s grand
scheme of linking the Peninsula with Siam and Burma, as well as to create interaction amongst the settlements in Malaya and for exchange of
goods. The construction of the building begun in 1912, taking three years to complete. It has also been mentioned that the building was
actually designed in 1907, but the construction only resumed in 1914, due to issues relating to tender, with $60,000 was spent on the contract
alone. In August 1909, contractors J.A. (?) and P. C. Russel has won the tender with the amount of $241,300. However, the World War I has
been another reason for the further delay of its construction. The design of the building was in the end finalized in 1913 and it was completed
in 1917. The building started its operation in 1918. It was granted the status of a National Heritage in the year 2007.

Part of Frank Swettenham’s scheme, Ipoh was a thriving town, booming with its tin mining industry, and it was only natural that this raised the
need for a reliable transportation system. Ipoh Railway Station was one of the immediate impacts of the rapid growth that the town was
experiencing. The station started off as a humble wooden shed at Jalan Fryer, the exact spot where a convenience store and a food-stall are
standing today. It was built simultaneously with all the railway tracks, but was later demolished to make way for a more permanent structure.
The project was commissioned to Hubback in the year 1917, but due to the shortage of materials as well as the high cost of labour during the
World War I, the completion of the station was delayed. It only started operating in the year 1935. At the time, it was owned by the Federated
Malay States Railways. It was designed with the intention to integrate the railway station with a hotel as a single unit, with strong emphasis on
linearity and repetition of arches as part of its architectural language. Originally, it consisted of three platforms, a commodious office, a 17 bed
hotel and a restaurant. The design was highly influenced by the British Colonial and Neo-Moorish architecture. Some of its prominent features
include the keystones, Corinthian columns, pilasters, half-globed domes and arches. It has deep continuous arcade loggias, broad verandas and
high ceilings. Hubback has made it what it was meant to be; symmetrical, balanced and harmonious. The building boasts an advanced and
latest construction technology of its time. The structures were made of steel I-beams and columns, and the roof was topped with a steel dome
structure coated with concrete.

On sports and recreation
An avid sportsman, Hubback spent a great deal of his time playing his favourite games and competing in a number of competition. His first
game was in the Inter-State Golf Match in Singapore, for which he had applied leave on December 20, 1895. He had the experience of having
his muscle ruptured. He was part of the team in the cricket game between Selangor and Singapore, which has taken place on February 4, 1897.

He was also one of the players for the Straits Settlement Cricket Team, playing in the Cricket Festival in Hong Kong, between 24 to 25
November the same year. According to some resources, Hubback had also been involved in cricket games in Burma.

Starting a family
One of the most important events during his stay in the Federated Malay States, was his wedding to Margaret Roses Frances Voules, or more
fondly known to many as Daisy, which has taken place on 28 October 1901. Daisy was the daughter of Sir Gordon Blennerhassett Voules, a
judge based in India, and sister of Arthur Blennerhassett Voules, the Resident Councillor of Penang. Their beautiful wedding has taken place at
St. Mary’s Church, Kuala Lumpur, and was attended by a number of dignitaries and officials, as reported in the Malay Mail dated 29 October
1901 and 30 October 1901.

The morning broke fair and cloudless, as it always
does in books, and from an early hour it was
evident that something unusual was about to
happen. The little town of Kuala Lumpur is
nestling – but we have not space for that.
Bunting and triumphal arches relieved the
monotony of the main streets; sprigs of orange
blossom peeped forth from the shop windows,
and even the ‘touchangs’ of the rikisha coolies
were tied up with pink ribbon (the bride’s
favourite colour).

The Malay Mail, 30 October 1901, page 3

The newspaper articles, entitled ‘The Hubback-Voules Wedding’ and ‘The Wedding – Another Account’ respectively, provide vivid description
of the day, and details of the wedding, right down to the bride’s and the bridesmaids’ dresses. Not to forget the cake that was specially sent
from Buzzard’s of Oxford Street for the occasion. After the reception, the bride and groom left for their honeymoon in Bukit Larut, Taiping, by
train.

Perak is a state that Hubback seemed to have so much affection for, evident in the choice of his honeymoon destination, as well as the number
of architectural legacy that he has left behind, with Sekolah Menengah Kebangsaan Raja Perempuan Kelsom, as the building is known as now,
as one of the well-known ones. Located in Bukit Che’ Midah, later renamed Bukit Kerajaan, the school is significant for the long history
attached to it, and the site on which it sits. Originally the setting for a ‘Rumah Kutai’ belonging to a wealthy merchant known as Nakhoda
Terang and his wife Che’ Midah, it has a majestic view of the town of Kuala Kangsar, and is a strategic location for the formal residence of the
newly appointed British Resident in Perak. After the tragedy in Pasir Salak, it was decided that the administrative centre to be moved to Kuala
Kangsar. The ‘Rumah Kutai’ was bought over from the wealthy couple, and was used to accommodate the British Resident. It was torn down in
1878, and replaced by a double-storey mansion. After two more episodes of tearing down and building over, the new residence designed by
Hubback was built in the year 1905 and named the King’s Pavilion. It bears strong features of Renaissance architecture, with its symmetrical
façade and large pediment. The architectural language is further enhanced by the organization of pilasters, arches and entablatures with a
progression towards the centre. A large porte cochere was placed to celebrate the main entrance. The façade is also adorned with Tuscan
columns and pilasters. The mansion was vacated in the year 1937 when the state capital of Perak was moved from Taiping to Ipoh. It was once
used as a dormitory for first form students of the Malay College Kuala Kangsar. In 1949, it was transformed into Methodist Girls’ School and on
January 1, 1954, it was taken over by the British government and named the Government’s English School. Finally, in 1967, the name was
changed to Sekolah Menengah Kebangsaan Raja Perempuan Kelsom, in honour of the mother of the reigning Sultan, Raja Teh Umi Kelsom Raja
Muhammad.

The year following their honeymoon, the couple performed in a comedy play entitled ‘Breaking the Ice’, at the Selangor Club’s concert. On
September 11, 1902, they welcomed their first child, Arthur Gordon Voules Hubback. Records have shown that throughout his service in the
Federated Malay States, Hubback had designed more than 30 buildings in total, mostly of government and institutional buildings, and some
has personal association to him. One that was dear to him is Carcosa Seri Negara, in which his daughter, Yvonne Hubback, was born in October
1912.

Located in Lake Garden, Kuala Lumpur and was also known as the King’s House, Seri Negara (as it was known then) was originally built to
protect the Straits Governor and official guests of the Federated Malay States. Built in the year 1897 at the cost of $25,000, its planning and
construction were supervised by C. E. Spooner and followed-up closely by Frank Swettenham. Frank Swettenham then moved in and named it
Carcosa. Three years after that, it was converted into the residence of British High Commissioner.

Rewards and last appointments
Hubback and his wife made a final trip to Malaya on the Sodu Maru Ship, leaving the United Kingdom on October 1919, and arriving in
November. It was unclear whether this was a call of duty, or a short visit prior to returning back to the United Kingdom for good. He officially
retired from the position of Deputy Agent, Malayan States Agency. No date or even means was mentioned, on their departure to the United
Kingdom.

Between 1920 and 1924, Hubback commanded the 5th London Infantry Brigade of the Territorial Army. This is believed to have been his last
appointment, before retiring fully at the age of 53. There were no records of his activities after that, even on important global event such as
the World War II, which ended on August 15, 1945.

Hubback drew his last breath at his home, at No 4, The Hollies, Broxbourne, Hertfordshire, due to heart failure.