KALAVAIBHAVI
“The bird on a branch doesn’t fear falling. Because it trusts it’s wings and not the branch. Likewise, always be confident of your skill” -DR. Shivarama Karanth ( Jnanpith Awaradee)
A Craft Cluster study done at Mysore, Karnataka (570015) FEBRUARY 2024 Masters of Design Spaces National Institute of Fashion Technology, Bengaluru Document submitted by students of MDes (2023-2025) Bharathi kannan S MD/23/255 Durga O MD/23/437 Pankhuri MD/23/287 Mansi Joshi MD/23/318 Monalisa Bankey MD/23/124 Talluri Suprabath MD/23/208
ACKNOWLEDGEMENT We would like to take this opportunity to express our profound gratitude towards Development commissioner of handicraft, Ministry of textiles, Government of India, and NIFT without whom this documentation would not have been possible.We would also like to thank Dr. Yathindra L, Director of the National Institute of Fashion Technology, Bengaluru for providing us with the facilities to visit the cluster. We would also like to our thank all our mentors Mr Prashanth Kochuveetil,Mr Mohammed Ansar,Ms Biniya Arul Jothi under whose guidance the project was carried out and also Mr.M.Ponkumaran for helping out with planning the trip. We are much obliged and thankful towards all the artisans for their hospitality and patience.Last but not least, we would like to express a heartfelt thank you to our families, friends and fellow batchmates for always supporting us throughout our endeavours.
DECLARATION We,Bharathi Kannan S (MDes/23/255), Durga O(Mdes/23/427), Pankhuri (Mdes/23/287), Mansi Joshi (MDes/23/318), Monalisa bankey (MDes/23/124), Talluri Suprabath (Mdes/23/208) hereby declare that this document titled “Kalavaibavi” submitted to the Department of Masters in Design space, of National Institute of Fashion Technology, Bengaluru as partial fulfilment of the requirement for Craft Cluster report is a record of bonafide work originally carried out by us under the guidance of our faculty mentor, Mr.Prashanth Kochuveetil, NIFT Bengaluru. This document has neither been previously submitted for a degree/diploma by self or by anyone else, except as fully acknowledged within the text of this documentation report.
CERTIFICATE This is to certify that Bharathi Kannan (MD/23/255), Durga O (MD/23/437), Mansi Joshi (MD/23/318), Pankhuri (MD/23/287), Monalisa Bankey (MD/23/124), Talluri Suprabath (MD/23/208) students of Master of Design space (2023 - 2025) have successfully completed research, field study and compilation of the documents regarding Craft Cluster during the second semester, conducted by the National Institute of Fashion Technology, Bengaluru under the mentorship of Prashanth kochuveetil (Assosiate Professor and Campus Co ordinator in Master in design Space Depaetment). Prashanth Kochuveetil Associate Professor and Campus co ordinator Department of Master in Design Space Nift Bengaluru Date : 25/3/2024 Place : Bengaluru
FOREVER IN OUR HEARTS SHRI K.MOHAN Your legacy lives on through your profound contributions to this craft, shaping the minds of generations to come.
CONTENTS 1.1 History of Mysuru 1.2 Landscape of Mysuru 1.3 Culture of Mysuru 1.4 Festivals of Mysuru 1.5 Cuisines of mysuru 1.6 Crafts of Mysuru 1.7 Summary 02 04 06 08-12 14-16 18-22 24 2.1 Overview 2.2 Aim of the study 2.3 Research Approach 26 27 28 3.1 Mysore rosewood inlay 3.2 Metamorphosis 3.3 Influencing factores affecting Rosewood Inlay 3.4 Summary 30 31-32 33-36 38 1. Mysuru the Heritage city 2. Research Overview 3. Mysore Rosewood Inlay
5.1 Marking tool 5.2 Cutting tool 5.3 Scooping tool 5.4 Scraping tool 5.5 Summary 59 60 61 62 66 68 4.1 Rosewood inlay 4.2 Accessibility of Wood and other allied materials 4.3 Legality of substituting Rosewood with other alternative Materials 4.4 The definition of ‘PRODUCER’ Under the Geographical Indications Act,1999. 4.5 Types of wood 4.6 Other raw materials 4.7 Summary 40 42 44 46 47-55 56 58 4. Raw materials 5. Tools 6. Inlay Process
7.1 Market Hotspot in Mysore 7.2 Craftsman training and market dynamics 7.3 Summary 70 72 74 8.1 What is a geographical indicator? 8.2 International response and Indian position 8.3 GI of Karnataka 8.4 Management of GI by the Karnataka government 8.5 Summary 9.1 Cultural Identity 9.2 Gender gap 9.3 Literacy 9.4 Living conditions 81 82 84 84 75 76 77 78 80 7. Market Analysis Inlay 8. Geographical indication (GI Tag) 9. Socio - Economic Factor
10.1 National Handicraft programme 10.2 Mudra Yojana 10.3 Summary 9.5 Income 9.6 Infrastructure 9.7 Challenges of production 9.8 Availability of Artisan with skillset 9.9 Summary 85 85 87 88 90 91-92 93-94 96 97-100 103-104 105-106 107-108 10. Government support 11. Artisans Interviews 12. Conclusion 13. Glossary 14. Bibliography
MYSURUTHE HERITAGE CITY
01 Mysore painting depicting a scene of ‘Mahisasura Vardhini’ Source: Getty Images
The term Mysuru is believed to be a phonetic variation of “mysooru,” which originates from the Kannada term “mahishur” or “Mahishasurana Ooru,” denoting the abode of Mahishasura, as per local folklore and Puranic narratives. Goddess Parvathi, incarnating as Chamundeshwari, vanquished Mahishasura atop Chamundi hill, lending both hill and city their names. Historical evidence dates back to Hoysala inscriptions from the 11th-12th centuries, showcasing Mysuru’s governance by various dynasties like Gangas, Chalukyas, Cholas, and Hoysalas. Vijayanagar Kings, succeeded by the Mysuru Yadu dynasty in 1399 A.D., furthered its temple construction [17]. Bettada Chamaraja Wadiyar fortified Mysuru, dubbing it ‘Mahishura Nagara.’ Inscriptions from the 17th century onwards refer to Mysuru as ‘Mahishuru’. Under Krishnaraja Wadiyars III and IV, Mysuru underwent substantial urban expansion and meticulous planning, marking its rise as a renowned city with wide boulevards, splendid architecture, and verdant parks [17]. Today, Mysuru stands as a modern metropolis while preserving its ancient charm. Internationally acclaimed for its craftsmanship, Mysuru excels in sandalwood and rosewood artifacts, stone sculptures, incense production, ivory inlay work, and silk sarees, reflecting its rich cultural heritage and artistic legacy [17]. History Of Mysuru 02
6,8545 km2 12.2958° N, 76.6394° 140 Kms NorthEast Area Bengaluru 03
Mysuru Junction is the City’s main station and there are trains plying the route between Bangalore, Chennai, Mumbai, New Delhi, Thanjavur, Ajmer, Hyderabad, Shirdi etc. Railway Line electrification between Mysuru and Krantiveera Sangolli Rayannna Station will be built on international standards [17]. High-speed train between Mysuru and Chennai is also approved. The road networks of Mysuru city are in a gridiron fashion with numerous parallel roads “grids” the city. And then there are some 5 radial roads, all originating from Mysuru Palace, which is the focal point of the city. Mysuru has a very good road network, Bengaluru city is connected by SH-17 with 4 lane road[17]. National Highway 212 and State Highways 17,33,88 pass through Mysuru connecting it to nearby by cities. Mysuru has Outer Ring Road of 42.5-kilometers, all these highways intersect the Outer Ring Road. Mandakalli Airport is situated around 10 kms from Mysuru City. Nearest international airport is Kempegowda International Airport, Bengaluru around 170 kms from Mysuru. Landscape 04
05 A Help group Organisation feeding and worshiping pigeons at Vadiyar Circle Source: Bharathi kannan
Mysuru has long been recognized as a city where religious diversity thrives in peaceful coexistence, a tradition upheld for centuries. Even during periods of cultural zenith under the Vijayanagar Empire and the Wadiyar reign, rulers fostered an inclusive environment, supporting all religions and cultures without bias. This patronage across various domains led to the emergence of a unique artistic and cultural style known as the “Mysuru Style,” evident in painting, architecture, music, poetry, and more. As this distinctive culture extended its influence, it became associated with the prefix “Mysuru,” signifying its rich heritage. Despite its modernisation, Mysuru remains deeply rooted in its traditions and cultural ethos. A poignant illustration of this unity is observed during the celebrated 10-day Dasara festivities, synonymous with Mysuru. This grand celebration encompasses not only religious rituals but also the adornment of homes, the exhibition of dolls, and the sharing of sweets among neighbours and children. Such customs have been cherished by the residents of Mysuru for generations, symbolizing the enduring spirit of Dasara and the city’s cultural heritage. Culture of Mysuru 06 New beginnings Source:Bharathikannan
07 Dance Performance during Mysuru Dasara Festival Source:Unsplash
In Mysuru, festivals unfurl like petals in a fragrant garden, each one a vibrant tapestry of tradition and celebration. Amidst the grandeur of palaces and the gentle waft of jasmine, Dasara reigns supreme, its regal elephants and pulsating drumbeats echoing through history[14]. Navaratri ignites the streets with a riot of colors and devotion, while Jambotsava whispers ancient tales amidst heritage and jubilation[14]. From temples adorned with reverence to streets alive with dance, Mysuru’s festivals paint a kaleidoscope of joy. Here, amidst Karnataka’s heart, every festival becomes a journey into the soul of a city, where tradition dances with modernity in a timeless embrace. Festivals of Mysuru 08
The Nadahabba, commonly known as Mysore Dasara, stands as the most majestic festival in Mysore, unfolding over a span of ten days typically falling in September or October. This grand celebration commences with the nine auspicious nights of Navratri and culminates on the tenth day, Vijayadashami, symbolizing the triumph of good over evil. Rooted in Hindu mythology, Mysore Dasara commemorates the victory of the goddess Chamundeshwari over the demon Mahishasura. Traditionally, the royal family of Mysore venerates Goddess Chamundeshwari in her warrior incarnation, conducting rituals that entail the worship of implements and animals utilized in warfare, including weapons, elephants, horses, and the royal sword. Festivities commence with a ceremonial puja conducted by the reigning Wadiyar king and other members of the royal lineage, setting the stage for a vibrant array of events. These festivities encompass athletic competitions, cultural performances featuring singing and dancing, spectacular fireworks display, and lively bike parades. Notably, the kushti spardhe, or wrestling competition, serves as a major highlight, drawing participants from all corners of the country. 01.Mysuru Dasara: 09 Elephant rally during Mysore Dasara
A significant attraction of Mysore Dasara is the Dasara Exhibition, inaugurated in 1880 by Chamaraja Wadiyar X to showcase advancements to the populace. Today, the exhibition features numerous stalls offering diverse merchandise ranging from clothing to kitchenware and food items. Additionally, visitors can enjoy entertainment amenities such as play areas and amusement parks featuring rides like the Ferris wheel. The crowning moment of Mysore Dasara is the grand procession, colloquially known as the Jumbo Savari, traversing the city streets in resplendent fashion [14]. This procession showcases adorned elephants, horses, and camels, accompanied by colourful tableaux, dance troupes, and musical ensembles [14]. The focal point of the parade is the revered idol of Goddess Chamundeswari, ensconced within a golden howdah and borne aloft by the lead elephant. Culminating at the Banni Mantapa, the procession concludes with a puja honouring the banni tree, followed by a torchlight parade. An integral aspect of the festival is the Gombe Habba, or Dasara Gombe Puja, where households adorn stepped platforms with clay or wooden dolls representing Hindu deities, monarchs, and individuals from diverse professions. dimension to the festivities.. Source:Unsplash 10
The Vairamudi Brahmotsavam is an annual festival held at the Cheluvanarayana Swamy temple in Melkote, situated in the Mandya district. Spanning over 13 days, typically in March or April, this celebration draws a large gathering of devotees seeking blessings. A focal point of the festival is the procession featuring the idol of Cheluvanarayana Swamy adorned with the vairamudi, a renowned diamond-studded crownB [14]. Accompanied by divine consorts Sridevi and Bhudevi, the idol is carried atop a golden garuda, symbolizing Vishnu’s vahana. To protect the vairamudi from sunlight exposure, the procession occurs during the night and extends into dawn. Preceding the brahmotsavam is the Garudotsav, honoring Vishnu’s divine vehicle, Garuda [14]. Throughout the 13 days, the temple conducts various rituals, including Teppotsava (idol procession on a boat in the lake), Nagavalli Mahotsava (worship of the snake god), and Gajendra Moksha (prayer to the elephant god). 02.Vairamudi Brahmotsavam: 11 Cheluvanarayana Swamy Idol with Vairamudi
Ugadi, the Kannada new year celebrated in March or April, marks the onset of a promising era, symbolizing fresh beginnings and prosperity. This auspicious festival is observed with great fervor across Karnataka, including Mysore, where Hindu Kannadigas adorn their homes with vibrant rangolis and toranas crafted from mango leaves. Family members partake in ritualistic oil baths and don new attire, symbolizing the dawn of a new chapter [14]. Lighting lamps and offering prayers for auspiciousness, they engage in the tradition of consuming bevu-bella—a mixture of neem leaves and jaggery, alongside coconut and raw mango. This blend of Flavors represents life’s myriad experiences—sweet, sour, salty, bitter, astringent, and piquant—a reminder to embrace the diverse facets of the forthcoming year. Following the rituals, families gather to indulge in a sumptuous feast featuring traditional delicacies such as obbattu, a sweet roti stuffed with a delectable lentil mixture (also known as holige), and payasa, a comforting rice pudding [14]. 03. Ugadi: The Kannadiga New Year 12 Ugadi Pachadi
13
Cuisines Of Mysuru Mysore cuisine is a celebration of flavors and traditions, blending distinctive spices and ingredients to create iconic dishes like the Mysore Masala Dosa and indulgent desserts like Mysore Pak. Accompanied by a rich variety of chutneys and pickles, each bite tells a story of culinary craftsmanship. Beyond vegetarian specialties, Mysore offers a diverse range of non-vegetarian delights, from aromatic Mysore Chicken Curry to flavorful Mutton Pulao. Rooted in heritage and passed down through generations, Mysore cuisine is more than just food; it’s a journey through history and culture. Whether enjoying royal feasts or street food, every dish reflects Mysore’s vibrant culinary legacy and unmatched hospitality. 14
Mysore Pak, a beloved Indian dessert known for its decadent taste and velvety texture, has its roots entrenched in the historical city of Mysore, located in the southern state of Karnataka [15]. The traditional method of preparing Mysore Pak involves the meticulous roasting of besan in ghee until it exudes a rich, golden hue, followed by the addition of sugar syrup to achieve a smooth, fudge-like consistency [15]. The resulting mixture is then allowed to set before being cut into enticing squares. Chitranna is a fragrant and tangy rice dish originating from Karnataka, South India. This flavorful delicacy is a staple in Kannadiga cuisine and is commonly prepared during festivals, special occasions, and as a quick meal option [15]. It is typically prepared by cooking rice and tempering it with a medley of spices such as mustard seeds, curry leaves, turmeric, and green chilies [15]. Additionally, it is infused with the tangy zest of lemon juice or tamarind pulp, which lends it a refreshing and citrusy flavor profile. To enhance its texture and taste, Chitranna is often garnished with roasted peanuts, grated coconut, and fresh coriander leaves, adding layers of crunch and aroma to the dish. 02.Mysore pak 01.Chitranna 15 01 02
Mysore Masala Dosa is a popular South Indian dish known for its crispy texture and savory filling. Originating from the city of Mysore in Karnataka, India, this delectable dish has gained widespread acclaim both nationally and internationally [15]. Mysore Masala Dosa is characterized by its thin, crispy crepe made from a batter of fermented rice and lentils, generously smeared with a fiery red chutney made from dried red chilies, garlic, and spices. It is then filled with a flavorful mixture of mashed potatoes, seasoned with mustard seeds, curry leaves, and turmeric, adding layers of complexity to the dish [15]. Served piping hot with a side of coconut chutney and sambar. 03.Mysore masala dosa 16
17 Products display in cavery emporium Mysuru
Crafts Of Mysuru Mysore crafts encompass a rich tapestry of artistic traditions, from the renowned silk weaving to intricate woodcarvings and vibrant lacquerware. These crafts, steeped in tradition and creativity, reflect the city’s cultural heritage and regal charm. Mysore silk sarees, with their lustrous fabrics and intricate motifs, stand as iconic symbols of the region’s craftsmanship. Alongside silk, Mysore is celebrated for delicate ivory carvings, ornate metalwork, and vibrant Mysore paintings, each showcasing meticulous attention to detail and a deep reverence for tradition [16]. Beyond preserving the past, Mysore crafts thrive as a dynamic industry, embracing modern techniques while staying true to their roots. This fusion of innovation and tradition ensures the endurance of Mysore’s rich artistic legacy, captivating audiences locally and globally [16]. Whether it’s the elegance of silk or the intricacy of woodcarvings, each craft piece narrates a tale of skill, passion, and creativity unique to Mysore. 18 Source:Subrabath
Mysore Painting is a classical South Indian art form characterized by its vibrant colors, detailed figures, and intricate detailing, often depicting mythological and religious themes, originating from the royal courts of the Mysore kingdom. The Tanjore and Mysore traditional paintings, emerging from the Vijayanagar School of Painting (A.D. 1336 to 1665), represent a significant facet of Indian artistic heritage[16]. Depicting deities inspired by shlokas, artists of that era creatively transformed textual descriptions into vibrant visual artworks, bridging the realms of literature and painting[16]. 01.Mysuru paintings 19 Mahishasuramardhini Depiction Excotic Indian art
Ganjifa card is an ancient Indian card game and associated painting tradition, where intricately designed circular cards are adorned with elaborate motifs and illustrations, reflecting the cultural heritage and artistic finesse of the regions where it flourished[16]. The ancient and intricate Ganjifa artistry can be admired at several locations, including the Jagan Mohan Palace in Mysore, the Folk Art Museum in Gangotri, Mysore, the dedicated Ganjifa Museum in Srirangapattna, and the Manjusha Museum in Dharmashala. Over time, the traditional craft of Ganjifa cards has undergone evolution, resulting in a plethora of versions enriched by the contributions of various rulers and artists, each leaving their distinct mark on the intricate patterns adorning the cards, reflecting regional influences and historical contexts[16]. 02.Ganjifa cards 20
Mysore Rosewood Inlay is a traditional craft involving the embedding of different colored and types of wood into rosewood to create intricate patterns and designs, representing a unique form of woodwork artistry[5]. The Mysore Rosewood Inlay craft involves the meticulous arrangement of different wood types and colors within a predetermined pattern, seamlessly embedded into a wooden base to craft exquisite artworks[10]. Jayachamaraja Wodeyar Bahadur, the last Maharaja of Mysore, presided over a period characterized by diverse artisanal practices, prominently including ivory inlay in rosewood, which underwent a significant transformation under the innovative techniques introduced by Mast er Craftsperson Shokat Ali, utilizing locally sourced wood of varying colors, resulting in an artistic revolution that garnered royal admiration and widespread adoption[5]. 03.Rosewood Inlay 21
Mysore Silk is a renowned variety of silk fabric produced in Karnataka, particularly in and around Mysore city, known for its exceptional quality, lustrous texture, and exquisite craftsmanship, representing a significant contribution to India’s silk weaving heritage. Established in 1912 by Sri Nalvadi Krishnaraja Wodeyar, the Maharaja of Mysore, the Mysore Silk factory, overseen by the Karnataka Silk Industries Corporation Limited (KSIC), is situated in the heart of Mysore, spanning vast acres of land dedicated to silk weaving and product distribution[16]. Since the saree zari contains 65% pure silver and 0.65% of gold, it is also one of the most expensive silk saree in India. The primary source of silk for this renowned factory stems from Karnataka’s Ramanagara district, renowned as Asia’s largest market for silk cocoons [16]. 04.Mysore silk saree 22
23
Mysuru, believed to originate from “mahishur,” meaning the abode of Mahishasura, is steeped in mythological and historical significance. Governed by various dynasties like the Gangas, Chalukyas, and Hoysalas, it flourished under the Vijayanagar Kings and the Mysuru Yadu dynasty. Under Krishnaraja Wadiyars III and IV, Mysuru underwent significant urban expansion, evolving into a renowned city known for its wide boulevards, splendid architecture, and verdant parks. Today, it stands as a modern metropolis while preserving its ancient charm. Known for its craftsmanship, Mysuru excels in sandalwood and rosewood artifacts, stone sculptures, incense production, ivory inlay work, and silk sarees, reflecting its rich cultural heritage. Situated on the Deccan Plateau, Mysuru enjoys a temperate climate, making it favorable year-round. The local cuisine of Mysuru presents a delightful array of flavors, including the famous Mysore Pak, Mysore Masala Dosa, Chitranna, and Bisi Bele Bath, captivating the palate of culinary enthusiasts. Mysuru’s culture embraces religious diversity, evident in its inclusive traditions and unique artistic style, known as the “Mysuru Style.” Festivals like Dasara, Vairamudi Brahmotsavam, and Ugadi are celebrated with grandeur, showcasing the city’s vibrant cultural heritage. Among its famous crafts are Mysore paintings, Ganjifa cards, rosewood inlay, and Mysore silk sarees, each representing centuries-old traditions and artistic finesse. The Mysore Silk factory, established in 1912, is a testament to the city’s contribution to India’s silk weaving heritage. Overall, Mysuru’s rich history, cultural diversity, culinary delights, and artistic craftsmanship make it a truly captivating destination, blending tradition with modernity in harmony. Summary 24
RESEARCH OVERVIEW
25 Students interviewing national Awardee Shree Mohan on his immense contribution for mysore rosewood inlay
Overview We embarked on a visit to a craft cluster specializing in Mysore rosewood inlay work with the primary objective of immersing ourselves in the intricacies of the craft, understanding the craftsmen’s perspective, and comprehending the environmental context. Our overarching aim was to meticulously observe, empathize, and engage with the craft, its artisans, and the surrounding ecosystem. Through this immersive experience, we sought to identify opportunities for enhancement and propose strategic design interventions to elevate the craft’s quality and sustainability. 26 Source: Suprabath
Aim of the Study History and Origin: Investigating the roots and cultural significance of Mysore Rosewood Inlay, tracing its evolution and global presence. Craftsmanship: Detailing the intricate process, materials like rosewood and brass, and tools utilized in crafting Mysore Rosewood Inlay designs. Materials and Tools: Examining raw materials and tools, including chisels and adhesives, shedding light on craftsmanship intricacies. Market Analysis: Exploring the current market scenario, encompassing demand, supply chains, pricing trends, and global competition. Geographical Indication (GI) Tag: Assessing the impact of GI status in preserving authenticity and bolstering market value. Socio-Economic Impact: Analyzing the craft’s contribution to local communities, encompassing employment, income, skill development, and cultural heritage. Governmental Support: Evaluating existing policies and initiatives aiding Mysore Rosewood Inlay artisans, from training to financial assistance and marketing aid. 27 This study aims to comprehensively address the various aspects influencing the practice of Rosewood inlay in the Mysore District of Karnataka, from identifying artisans to understanding market dynamics and providing support for their sustainable livelihoods. The objective of the study includes:
Research Approach The Mysore district of Karnataka served as the location for the research study that was conducted through an exploratory approach. The research comprises of doctrinal research on the legal and policy framework, as well as social, economic, and cultural issues that are associated with the Government of India. Additionally, it incorporates an empirical study including the collection of primary data regarding Rosewood inlay from various stakeholders, including government departments, craftsmen, and other organizations. The methods that are utilized for the purpose of data collecting include, but are not limited to, interviews, questionnaires, and closed group discussions. After the data has been obtained, it is then subjected to further analysis, and conclusions are derived from the findings. 28