Ng'aali Issue 4 Web

DESTINATION LONDON

MAYFAIRMUCKING ABOUT IN
From its early days as a horse market and slum, Mayfair has risen
to the best address in London. Mark Eveleigh checks into the
Athenaeum Hotel, home to celebrities, and explores the quaint
alleyways of the British capital’s chicest quarter.

“L egend has it that THESE DAYS, IT IS HARD start of our walk. “Along with shepherds
Beau Brummel was TO IMAGINE ANYTHING and horse traders, it attracted countless
such a dandy that he vagabonds, cut-throats, thieves and
polished his boots with MUCKY IN MAYFAIR. A prostitutes. Finally, the mayor banned
champagne froth,” our CENTURY AND A HALF the fair and turned the grubby Mayfair
guide tells us as we stand in front of a AFTER BRUMMEL LIVED grounds into what would become one of
terraced townhouse in Mayfair on an HERE, IT IS STILL THE MOST the world’s most expensive places to live.”
unexpectedly crisp and bright English FASHIONABLE RESIDENTIAL
spring day. If you just want to park your car in
I crane my neck up at a plaque high AREA IN LONDON. Mayfair, it will cost you £33 (USD50) for
on the old brick wall: ‘Beau Brummel, 24 hours but if you actually want to live
Leader of Fashion, lived here’ it says. here, the cheapest place you might find
“He was such an incredible bon viveur,” – a converted stable in Hays Mews for
the guide continues, “He used to get his
servants to carry him from inside his
house to the lobby of his gentleman’s
club so that he wouldn’t have to soil his
boots on the mucky streets of Mayfair.”
These days, it is hard to imagine
anything mucky in Mayfair. A century
and a half after Brummel lived here, it is
still the most fashionable residential area
in London.
Richard Roques is a playwright and
guide who has been leading walks
around London for more than 20 years.
Better known by his working name
Richard III, Roques has acquired a
wealth of quirky knowledge that brings
the history of one of the world’s most
colourful cities to life.
“Mayfair was named after an
agricultural fair that was held here in the
1700s,” he had told us when we met him
outside Green Park tube station for the

www.ngaaliinflightmag.com 53

DESTINATION LONDON Shopping in Mayfair These days, a pint for the Tyburn Road will cost you about
example – is likely to set you back about is as posh as it gets, £5. There’s not much in Mayfair that is cheap: the chic butcher
£3 million (USD4.6m). If that’s just shop here sells prime beef steak for £60/kg (if you order wagyu
small change to you, then something a with New Bond beef it will set you back £135/kg).
bit more spacious like ‘The In and Out Street’s high-fashion
Club’ – abandoned for the last 15 years designer stores; the Mr Patel owns a little corner shop at 24 Down Street. It is the
but ripe for some renovation, recently Victorian-era Royal sort of humble little grocery store you’ll find allover the city but
sold for £115 million (US$176m), might which seems delightfully out of place – almost rebellious – next
take your fancy. and Burlington to the Athenaeum.
shopping arcades;
The streets of Mayfair are peppered luxury perfumers; “I’ve been here for 27 years. I think the people who live and
with the names of the rich and famous jewellery shops; and work here like the feeling that there’s a little place remaining
who once lived here, and the Ferraris, the bespoke tailors that has not been bought up as a bistro or a designer
Aston Martins and Maseratis that make dressmaker,” Patel tells me.
up the average Mayfair traffic jam on Savile Row.
betray the presence of those who still Even in this property, there’s more than meets the eye:
do. Jimi Hendrix claimed to be haunted “Under this building, there’s an abandoned tube station,” he
by the spirit of George Frideric Handel explains. “It was only opened for a few years – turned out
after he moved next door to the Brook that there weren’t many people in Mayfair who used public
Street house in which the composer had transport. Winston Churchill slept under my shop during the
died 200 years before. Queen Elizabeth wartime bombings.”
herself was born in a house that is now
a Bentley showroom (17, Bruton St), Like Beau Brummel – that ‘leader of fashion’ – Mayfair has
and Charles Rolls worked nearby on seen many changes of fortune. Brummel had the bad sense to
a little-known manufacturing project have a public dispute with the king himself and ended his days
that would later become Rolls Royce. in poverty in a lunatic asylum in Europe. No doubt he died
pining for a chance to set his boots once more in the mucky
Perhaps Mayfair has always been lanes of Mayfair.
most desirable for its green areas. The
bay window of my Athenaeum Hotel
suite looks across Piccadilly (with its
bellowing red double-decker buses)
to the lush gardens of the Green
Park (scene of a rebellion in 1554 and
private hunting grounds for the king
thereafter). Beyond the hotel lobby,
with the elegant doorman tipping his
top-hat, I can walk just a few minutes
east to the sprawling lawns and lakes of
Regent’s Park.

Scratch the polished surface of
Mayfair’s glitz and glamour and you
will uncover a dark and grizzly history.

On the north side of Regent’s Park,
there’s an underground river called
the Tyburn and it was here that some
of London’s gruesome moments were
recorded. The gallows known as the
Tyburn Tree (the spot is marked on a
traffic island near Marble Arch) was
London’s most famous public execution
spot. Up to 24 people could be hanged
at a time and on the way to the hanging
trees the condemned men and women
were allowed to stop for one last drink
– which, with gallows-humour, was
known as ‘one for the Tyburn Road’.

54 NG'AALI MARCH - MAY 2021

DESTINATION LONDON

PLACE TO STAY

The Athenaeum Hotel (www.athenaeumhotel.com / Tel: +44
20 7499 3464) is a majestic 5-Star Mayfair hotel overlooking
Green Park. The Hollywood Reporter once wrote that ‘there
are more movie stars to be seen in London’s Athenaeum Hotel
than in the Polo Lounge of the Beverley Hills Hotel.’ Steven
Spielberg even edited ET, First Encounters and Indiana Jones in
an edit suite that he installed in the adjoining apartment to his
own. A favourite with countless celebrities today, the historical
building dates back to 1850 and the extravagant interior was
described by Charles Dickens. Room rates are from £260
(USD398) per night. The Athenaeum’s restaurant is hard to beat
and the Whisky Bar is stocked with the largest selection of
whiskies of any hotel in London (300+ varieties).

WALKING TOURS

London Walks (www.walks.com / Tel: +44 20 7624 3978) offers
a mind-boggling variety of tours around the city priced at just
£9 (USD14) per adult. Children under 15 aren’t charged. Their
Old Mayfair tour is described as ‘the champagne & caviar
of London walks’ and is guided by Richard IIIz, who is one of
London’s most fascinating guides. His Ghosts, Gaslight and
Guinness night walk around ‘the most haunted city in the world’
is a deliciously spine-tingling experience that gives a unique
insight into London’s dramatic history.

PUBS

History is everywhere in old Mayfair - in the little cobbled
square of Shepherds Market, and among the tailors of Savile
Row, or the stylish gentlemen’s shoe-shops and purveyors of
vintage watches in Burlington Arcade. Most of all, you find it in
some of the oldest pubs in London. The Coach and Horses is
the oldest in Mayfair (established in 1744) and still has a model
coach swinging as a reminder of the days when few people
could read. The Punch Bowl at 41 Farm Street is now owned
by film director Guy Ritchie but has been serving punch to
‘politicians and military gentlemen’ since 1750.

BUS TOUR & BOAT TOUR

Even for Londoners, The Big Bus Company (www.bigbustours.
com) offers a second-storey viewpoint of the city that is wholly
different from the street-level view for £26 (USD40). Along
with the world’s most knowledgeable taxi drivers, London
boasts some of the most entertaining guides with the quirkiest
outlooks. The bus tour is best combined with a free boat
cruise between Westminster and Tower Bridge, offering an
otherwise impossible look at the famous Traitor’s Gate and the
premonitory Bronze Lions’ heads in the wharf.
“Londoners say that if the lions are drinking, then London will
be sinking,” quips Jack Murphy, an excellent guide on the City
Cruise, “But if the lions get ducked, then London is well and
truly…flooded.”

www.ngaaliinflightmag.com 55

DESTINATION GUANGZHOU

WHERE
COCNOHL&ELILNWDIADE

Situated on the Pearl River,
which cuts a lazy swathe
through the city, Guangzhou
is the capital of Guangdong
Province. A buzzing metropolis
that’s home to ancient temples and
shimmering skyscrapers, the city
features avant-garde architecture like
the iconic 600-metre-tall sky piercing
Canton Tower, once the tallest building
in the world.
Thanks to a subtropical climate,
Guangzhou is blessed with flowers all
year round, earning itself the nickname,
‘City of Flowers’. It is famous for China’s
largest trade fair, the Canton Fair, and is
a shopper’s paradise. From luxury labels
at TaiKoo Hui and CTF Finance Centre
Mall, to local souvenirs and handicrafts
along Shangxiajiu Street, Guangzhou is
an excellent shopping destination.
In the next edition of Ng’aali, we delve more
into what makes this city special.

56 NG'AALI MARCH - MAY 2021

DESTINATION GUANGZHOU

Cultural heritage,
classical

architectural
style and modern
skyscrapers exist
together in perfect

harmony

DESTINATION MUMBAI

M U M B A ITHE GATEWAY OF INDIA

DESTINATION MUMBAI

Full of dreamers
and labourers, stars and
artists, fisherfolk and crorepatis
(millionaires), Mumbai is home to India’s
most prolific film industry - Bollywood, some
of Asia’s biggest slums (as well as the world’s most
expensive home), and the largest tropical forest in an
urban zone. It is India’s financial powerhouse, fashion
epicentre and a pulse point of religious tension.
The Gateway of India, pictured, is an arch-monument built in
the early 20th Century in the city of Mumbai, in the Indian
state of Maharashtra. The gateway is also the monument from
where the last British troops left India in 1948, following
Indian independence. It was later used as a symbolic
ceremonial entrance to India for Viceroys and the new
Governors of Bombay, and served to allow entry and
access to India. It overlooks the Arabian Sea
and has been referred to as the Taj Mahal
of Mumbai. It is the city’s top

tourist attraction.

DESTINATION ZIMBABWE

ZLGIAMIANBADNBWTOE’SSF
Zimbabwe’s Matabeleland is once again gaining a reputation
as one of the most spellbindingly beautiful regions on the African
continent. Within a relatively short distance, you find Victoria Falls,
the pretty city of Bulawayo, the natural sculptures and ancient
rock-art of Matobo Zimbabwe, and the spellbinding immensity of
Hwange National Park.
Words and pictures by Mark Eveleigh

There are few things Hwange is home Robert Chadyendia works at Somalisa Expeditions Camp
that are more to one of the and, like all the highly-trained guides in this part of Zimbabwe,
unpredictable than he has developed attuned insight into pachyderm psychology.
a 14-year-old in the largest elephant In Hwange National Park, the biggest protected area in
throes of a really populations in Zimbabwe, you can enjoy the truly humbling experience
serious temper- Africa, with an of travelling through an area where elephants outnumber
tantrum. It’s even more intimidating international tourists by around 200 to one.
when that fiery teenager stands two estimated 44,000
metres tall and outweighs you by a pachyderms On my first evening at Hwange, I’d sat in the main lodge
couple of tonnes. at Nehimba Camp, silently nursing a gin-and-tonic while a
I am sat nervously in an open Land blustering herd of elephants muscled in on the swimming pool
Rover, trying to appear unfazed under like an oversized gang of local bullies taking over the bar.
a shower of splintering twigs as an
adolescent elephant threatens to hit “This pool was actually built for the use of human visitors,”
me over the head with a branch that is laughed Ty Hurst, Nehimba’s head guide - as the pachyderms
about as thick as my leg. As the frenzied guzzled at the pool. “At least that was the plan. But the
teenager blurts out a last shrill trumpet- elephants enjoy the cool, clean water from the tiled pool even
call and stomps off after the rest of the more than they do the pump-filled waterhole; every night they
herd, I hear the quietly philosophical drink it dry.”
voice of my guide: “The cheekiest
elephants are often just like people,” Hwange’s estimated 46,000 elephants (more than double
he says thoughtfully. “The more noise Kenya’s elephant population) could potentially drink the
they make, the more certain you can be equivalent of three olympic-size swimming pools each day, yet
that they’re very unlikely to actually do this arid park is an extension of the almost waterless Kalahari
anything.” Desert. Until permanent water was introduced via boreholes
in 1928, Wankie (as it was known then) was just part of a great
migration route, with vast elephant herds passing through to
get to the great silver snake of the Zambezi.

60 NG'AALI MARCH - MAY 2021



DESTINATION ZIMBABWE Above: literally means ‘Houses of Stone’) was already about a quarter
While driving through the taunting The magnificent the size of London.
mirages, swirling dust-devils and Victoria Falls, known
shrinking waterholes of Hwange, it can as Mosi-oa-Tunya As I drove out of Bulawayo one morning in a rental car,
be hard to imagine that less than 100km (‘the smoke that Zimbabwe’s second-biggest city seemed to doze under a blanket
from the park’s northern boundary of mauve jacaranda blossoms. I made a short detour via Khami
are the perpetually booming cascades thunders’) Ruins National Monument (also a UNESCO site, but less
of Victoria Falls. Known poetically to visited than Great Zimbabwe) but even this two-kilometre
locals as Mosi-oa-Tunya (‘the smoke that Below: sprawl of 500-year-old stone bulwarks and palace walls is
thunders’), the falls are one of the most British Imperialist relatively a recent treasure in a region whose tangible history
dramatic wonders of our planet. Cecil J. Rhodes’ dates infinitely further back than this.
While the sleepy city of Harare grave in Matobo
is Zimbabwe’s capital, there is little From Khami, I made the 30-kilometre drive southwards
doubt that the booming tourist town National Park to the rock koppies and caves of Matobo Hills, where I
of Victoria Falls (known as Africa’s gazed upon Picasso-esque hunting scenes daubed by some
adrenalin sports capital) is the premier long-forgotten artist who had stood on the same spot more
tourist attraction in a country that has than 10,000 years ago. According to UNESCO, archeological
more than its share of stunning locations. findings around this area constitute ‘evidence that Matobo
Lake Kariba (created when a dam was Hills have been occupied for at least 500,000 years’.
built across the lower Zambezi in the
1960s) is a wonderfully relaxing water- Driving through this breathtakingly beautiful area, with the
based safari location. Further downriver, afternoon sun throwing surreal shadows across what locals
you find Mana Pools National Park, less named the ‘Bald Heads’, it was easy to see why this landscape
than a sixth the size of gigantic Hwange had captivated man’s artistic yearnings almost since the
yet world-famous as one of the best beginning of time.
wildlife havens in Africa.
Along with its natural riches, Zimbabwe has long been known as one of Africa’s most
Zimbabwe also boasts countless beautiful countries, and after emerging from troubled times,
historical and artistic gems. Long the country is now reclaiming its rightful place as one of the
before explorer David Livingstone first continent’s tourism highlights. For the moment, wilderness
set eyes on the Zambezi, this was the areas like Mana Pools, Gonarezhou and Hwange remain secrets
centre of one of the continent’s greatest that are known only to a few; places where you are still able to
empires and during the Middle Ages, the enjoy that rare feeling of being almost alone in the immensity
city that is now known only as Great of the African bush.
Zimbabwe Ruins (the country’s name
In Hwange, however, the feeling of solitude is frequently
overwhelmed by the feeling that you are travelling through
a land of giants. Hwange is the domain not only of vast

62 NG'AALI MARCH - MAY 2021

elephant herds but also of a very healthy ‘place of the leopard’. We had seen two DESTINATION ZIMBABWE
population of big cats. leopards in the teak forest near here in
the last couple of days. Now only a pair WHERE TO STAY IN
Early one morning, Robert of jackals and a lone hyena snickered at HWANGE
Chadyendia eases the Land Rover into the fringe of the cracked pans and we
the pretty acacia forest at the back of watched unsuccessfully for any signs of Somalisa Expeditions
Somalisa Camp, passing slowly through nervousness among the massed herds (africanbushcamps.com) is one
what appears to be a very nervous of zebra, wildebeest, waterbuck, impala, of Hwange’s premier luxury
elephant herd. giraffe and roan antelope.
camps and boasts some of
“We particularly watch out for herds We were driving across a scrubby the country’s best guides
with babies and elephants without tusks,” hillside near Makalolo Pans when we and extremely stylish tented
he explains quietly over his shoulder. came across a jittery herd of kudu on accommodation from USD420
“Decades of hunting took most of the big the edge of a mopane forest. And, just
tuskers out of the gene pool and about a couple of hundred metres down per person per night.
ten percent of the elephants here are the dirt-track, we realised that their The evocative Davison’s Camp
born tusk-less. But they’re cheekier, as if jitteriness was well-motivated. I sat (wilderness-safaris.com) – near
to compensate. It’s as if they hope that a as if frozen in the back of the Land the spot where the park was
simple bad attitude and lots of noise will Rover as the lions walked down the
compensate for the fact that they lack track directly towards us. I counted 12 founded in 1928 – offers an
the big guns.” lionesses and cringed behind my lens unforgettable slice of Hwange
as the click of the Nikon’s shutter drew pioneering history from USD
Perhaps these elephants had reason to their intense amber eyes into mine.
be defensive. We had heard lions roaring 380per person per night.
early in the morning and Hwange’s That night I lay in bed listening Nehimba Lodge
‘super-prides’ (numbering more than 20 to the local pride roaring out on
cats and even up to 33, each) are famous the plains. Somewhere behind my (imvelosafarilodges.com) has
for hunting juvenile elephants. While tent, another belligerent elephant nine spacious chalets arranged
this herd, with babies to care for, might bellowed, and suddenly it struck me
have been very keen to avoid the local as highly paradoxical that during a around a wildlife-packed
pride, Robert was doing his best to week in an area that receives very low waterhole from USD561pppn
arrange a successful rendezvous for me visitor numbers, I seemed to have and Imvelo’s new Stimela Star
with Hwange’s super-predators. spent a lot of time feeling delightfully overnight sleeper service now
outnumbered. runs between Victoria Falls
We headed toward the rolling and Hwange National Park,
grassland of Ngweshla Pan - meaning offering an irresistible touch

of vintage luxury.
The Hide (thehide.com)
might make you rethink
the definition of ‘tented
accommodation’ with its 10
immensely spacious canvas
suites from USD362pppn.
These rates all include meals,
drinks, park fees and game-
drives but for a budget,
self-drive option, try Tuskers
Camp Site (amalindacollection.
com), which offers simple
camping space and amenities
from USD14pppn (plus
USD18 park fees per day).

www.ngaaliinflightmag.com 63

ANIMAL KINGDOM

The wild dog is one of the The African wild dog has very strong of food necessary to feed more than two
world’s most endangered social bonds, stronger than those of litters would be impossible to acquire
mammals. As human sympatric lions and spotted hyenas; thus, by the average pack, breeding is strictly
populations expand, solitary living and hunting are extremely limited to the dominant female, which
leading to agriculture, rare in the species. They live in packs may kill the pups of subordinates.
settlements, and roads, wild dogs are of two to 27 adults and yearling pups,
losing the spaces in which they were dominated by a monogamous breeding After giving birth, the mother stays
once able to roam freely. pair. The species differs from most other close to the pups in the den, while the
The African wild dog is the largest social animals because males remain in rest of the pack hunts and feeds her. She
indigenous canine in Africa. Also the natal pack, while females disperse (a typically drives away pack members
sometimes called the hunting dog or pattern also found in primates such as approaching the pups until they are old
African painted dog — it has a colourful, gorillas, chimpanzees, and red colobuses). enough to eat solid food at three to four
patchy coat; large bat-like ears; and a weeks of age. The pups leave the den
bushy tail with a white tip that may African wild dog populations in East around the age of three weeks and are
serve as a flag to keep the pack in Africa appear to have no fixed breeding suckled outside. They are weaned at the
contact while hunting. They have only season. The African wild dog produces age of five weeks, when they are fed
four toes per foot, unlike other dogs more pups than any other canid, with regurgitated meat by the
which have five toes on their forefeet. litters containing around six to 16 pups,
No two wild dogs are marked exactly so a single female can produce enough
the same, making it easy to identify young to form a new pack
individuals. every year. Because
the amount

64 NG'AALI MARCH - MAY 2021

ANIMAL KINGDOM

other pack members.
Both males and females are

known to babysit. At seven
weeks, the pups begin to take
on an adult appearance, and once
they reach the age of eight to 10
weeks, the pack abandons the den and
the young follow the adults during hunts.
The youngest pack members are permitted to
eat first on kills, a privilege which ends once
they become yearlings. On the whole, the dogs
are surprisingly non-aggressive; for example,
they do not fight over food but instead beg to
indicate their wish to eat.
Sneeze communication and “voting”
African wild dog populations have been
observed “rallying” before they set out to hunt. Not
every rally results in a departure, but departure
becomes more likely when more individual dogs
“sneeze”. These sneezes are characterised by a short,
sharp exhale through the nostrils. When members of
dominant mating pairs sneeze first, the group is much
more likely to depart. If a dominant dog initiates, around
three sneezes guarantee departure. When less dominant
dogs sneeze first, if enough others also sneeze (about 10), then
the group will go hunting. Researchers assert that wild dogs
in Botswana, “use a specific vocalisation (the sneeze) along with
a variable quorum response mechanism in the decision-making
process [to go hunting at a particular moment]”. Even when their
leader – always female – dies, they vote for her successor with whoops
and hoots.
African wild dogs were once found across the African continent but
their populations have declined due to loss of habitat and threats from
farmers who fear for their livestock. There were reported sightings of the
African dog in Uganda in 2009, all in and around Kidepo Valley National Park,
but none were detected in the carnivore survey made by Wildlife Conservation
Society staff the same year. It is thought that this species is not resident in Uganda.
Currently, the largest numbers are found in Mozambique, Zimbabwe, Kenya,
Botswana, Zambia, Tanzania, and Namibia.

www.ngaaliinflightmag.com 65

CELEBRITY PROFILE

NCHGOIMZAI:MANDA

A feminist larger than life

Chimamanda Ngozi Adichie Chimamanda Ngozi
is one of the most famous Adichie, born 15th
African women alive today. September 1977, is
Not arguably, not maybe: the a Nigerian writer
43-year-old is nothing short of a whose works range
phenomenon. from novels to short
stories to nonfiction. She was described
in The Times Literary Supplement as “the
most prominent” of a “procession of
critically acclaimed young anglophone
authors (which) is succeeding in
attracting a new generation of readers
to African literature”, particularly in her
second home, the United States.
A reknowned feminist, she has written
several international bestseller novels,
most notably Purple Hibiscus (2003),
Half of a Yellow Sun (2006), Americanah
(2013), the short story collection, The
Thing Around Your Neck (2009), and
Dear Ijeawele (2017). Her latest feminist
manual, We Should All Be Feminists: The
Desk Diary 2021, will inspire women to
aim for the sky.
Adichie was born in Enugu, Nigeria,
into an Igbo family. She grew up on the
campus of the University of Nigeria,
Nsukka, where her father, James Nwoye
Adichie, was a professor of Statistics.
Her mother, Grace Ifeoma, was the
university’s first female Registrar. Her
family’s ancestral village is in Abba in
Anambra State.
The fifth of six children, she was
a voracious reader from a young age,
and found Things Fall Apart by Chinua
Achebe transformative. Adichie
completed her secondary education at
the University of Nigeria Secondary
School, Nsukka, where she received
several academic prizes. She studied

66 NG'AALI MARCH - MAY 2021

medicine and pharmacy at the its origins in a personal email Adichie CELEBRITY PROFILE
University of Nigeria for a year and wrote to a friend who had asked for On February 12th, 2021, Adichie
a half. During this period, she edited advice about how to raise her daughter announced her new powerful essay
The Compass, a magazine run by the as a feminist. on loss and grief. ‘Notes on Grief’ is at
university’s Catholic medical students. once a tribute to a long life of grace
Adichie divides her time between the and wisdom, the story of a daughter’s
In 1997, aged 19, she left for the U.S. U.S. and Nigeria, where she leads an fierce love for a parent, and a revealing
to continue her education at Drexel annual creative writing workshop. Much examination of the layers of loss and the
University in Philadelphia. She soon of the year, she lives in Baltimore with nature of grief.”
transferred to Eastern Connecticut State her Nigerian-American husband, Dr She is one of the most defining and
University to be near her sister Uche, Ivara Esege. In 2016, they had a daughter, stirring voices of our time - a beacon
who had a medical practice in Coventry. whose pregnancy, birthdate and name of hope, who maintains that women
Growing up in Nigeria, she was not used Adichie refused to reveal, citing the can prevail against all odds and will
to being identified by the colour of her scrutiny that comes with celebrity go to any lengths to prove this. And as
skin, but this suddenly changed. As a pregnancy. After their baby was born, it her motto says: ‘It’s not your job to be
black African in America, Adichie was was Dr Ivara who stayed home to look likeable. It’s your job to be yourself.’
suddenly confronted with what it meant after the child for the first six months.
to be a person of colour. She writes Afterward, the two shared a fifty-fifty DEGREES AND HONOURS
about this in her novel Americanah, for responsibility in raising their daughter, Aside from bestselling books,
which she won the 2013 U.S. National in a typical show of gender equality. Adichie is a very high achiever.
Book Critics Circle Award for fiction. She has a Bachelor’s degree
Having a baby made her think from Eastern Connecticut
Once settled in at University, differently about her own parents, State University with the
she started writing her first novel, particularly her mother. Grace Adichie, distinction of summa cum
Purple Hibiscus, which garnered the who had six children and worked laude in 2001; a Master’s Degree
Commonwealth Writers’ Prize in 2005 her way up from being a university in Creative Writing from Johns
for Best First Book (Africa) and that administrator to the registrar, taught Hopkins University; a Master
year’s Commonwealth Writers’ Prize for her daughter to love fashion as well as of Arts degree in African
Best First Book. She also wrote several books, and was a “very cool mum” whom History from Yale University;
short stories about the Nigerian Biafra she idolised as a child. However, like a Hodder fellowship at
conflict, which would become the most cheeky young adults, Adichie Princeton University for the
subject of her highly successful novel went through a rebellious phase with 2005-2006 academic year; a
Half of a Yellow Sun (2006), which was her mother. Now, she looks at her fellowship at the Radcliffe
adapted for film and starred Chiwetel daughter and is awed at Mrs Adichie’s Institute of Harvard University
Ejiofor and Thandie Newton. In mothering prowess. 2011-2012; a MacArthur
November 2020, Half of a Yellow Sun Fellowship n 2008; an honorary
was voted by the public to be the best Sadly, in June 2020, Adichie’s world Doctorate of Humane Letters,
book to have won the Women’s Prize for stopped when she lost her beloved father honoris causa, by Johns
Fiction in its 25-year history. and rock. Professor Adichie passed on at Hopkins University in 2016; a
the age of 88. Doctorate of Humane Letters,
Adichie was named one of TIME honoris causa, by Haverford
Magazine’s 100 Most Influential People in “Because I loved my father so much, so College and The University of
the World in 2015, and in 2017, Fortune fiercely, so tenderly, I always at the back Edinburgh in 2017; an honorary
Magazine named her one of the World’s of my mind feared this day. But he was Doctorate of Humane Letters
50 Greatest Leaders. Her essay, We in good health. I thought we had time. I from Amherst College
Should All Be Feminists, adapted from her thought it wasn’t yet time. I have come in 2018; and an honorary
2013 TEDx talk, has remained on the undone. I have screamed, shouted, rolled Doctorate honoris causa, from
bestseller lists, particularly in Sweden, on the floor, pounded things. I have shut the Université de Fribourg,
where in 2015 it was distributed to down parts of myself,” she wrote in one Switzerland, in 2019.
every 16-year-old highschool student in of her tributes to him.
the land.
Her father was Nigeria’s first professor
Dear Ijeawele, published in March 2017, of Statistics. He studied Mathematics
is a 9,000-word manifesto that features at Ibadan and got his PhD in Statistics
fifteen invaluable suggestions - direct, from the University of Carlifornia -
wryly funny, and perceptive - for how to Berkeley, returning to Nigeria shortly
empower a daughter to become a strong, before the Biafran War. He was a titled
independent woman. The book had Igbo man – Odelu Ora Abba – deeply
committed to his hometown.

www.ngaaliinflightmag.com 67

CUISINE

Kenyan food is as diverse as the people who prepare it. While Githeri is a one-pot meal made up of
there are some cultural staples like grains, greens and tubers, the corn and any kind of bean. It can be
rest of the country’s cuisine draws from many different flavour eaten plain or with onions, tomatoes,
profiles. Here are some of the most popular dishes from Kenya. and seasonings of your choice. It is
very easy to make and is one of Kenya’s

nourishing staples.

Ugali is the quintessential Kenyan
staple, made by adding cornmeal to
boiling water and mingling it until it
turns into a firm block of cornmeal. For
many Kenyans, ugali along with steamed
vegetables and meat or saucy stew is the

best meal.

Nyama Choma is the closest thing that Sukuma Wiki: One of the most popular
Kenya has to a national dish. Literally vegetable Kenyan dishes is sukuma wiki
translated as ‘burned meat,’ this is a local
delicacy of chicken, beef or goat slow- (known as collard greens or a form of
cooked over hot coals until the meat is so kale in English). It is often cooked in
tender that it melts in your mouth. The oil with a few diced tomatoes, onions,
meat is often seasoned with salt and left and flavoured with a sprinkle of mchuzi

to cook in its own juices. mix (a Kenyan food flavouring) or
stock cubes.

68 NG'AALI MARCH - MAY 2021

CUISINE

Chai (Kenyan style tea): Kenyan Kachumbari: The simple formula of
coffee is one of the more famous diced tomatoes, onions, chilli peppers,
varieties on earth, yet it is tea that is
the popular hot drink of choice for cilantro, and sometimes avocado,
many locals. Kenyan tea is brewed is a natural power combination
dark, mixed with plenty of whole fat
milk, and sweetened with a few heaped of vegetables that cultures all the
tablespoons of sugar. way from Mexico to Kenya have
discovered. It can be served as a
salad alongside grilled meats, as a
condiment, a relish, or an appetiser.

Irio (Mashed Peas and Potato Mix) Chapati: These are soft, fluffy, small Mandazi: This is a sweet, sugar-coated
was a Kikuyu staple that spread round and flat breads that are made doughnut most often infused with
throughout the country. Green peas from rolled out dough that is then delicious hints of cardamom and sweet
and Irish potatoes are boiled and fried on a cooking pan over medium coconut milk. They can usually be
mashed together before kernels of heat until brownish and crispy but smelled from 200 metres away - that
maize (corn) are added to give the still soft inside. Best served with meat lovely familiar scent of a blob of deep
mash some extra starch and texture. stews or tea. frying dough.

Pilau: In Kenya, pilau is prepared for
special occasions such as weddings.
It is considered a celebration meal
and is served with kachumbari. Pilau
is attributed to the coastal people in
Kenya. It is a special rice cooked with
aromatic spices and either chicken
or beef.

www.ngaaliinflightmag.com 69

CULTURE

70 NG'AALI MARCH - MAY 2021

CULTURE

Indian weddings, also called ‘Vivaah’, are best known colourful draperies. The henna for the bride’s ceremony comes
for the grandeur, traditions, grace, colours and almost from the groom’s side along with some other gifts like dry
carnival-type celebration associated with this sacred fruits and sweets. On this day, the bride gets her henna done
event, notable among these the Mehndi ceremony, with all the ladies and daughters of the family singing and
which is considered one of the most important. dancing around her. Elderly ladies sing traditional Mehndi
According to Wikipedia, Mehndi (Henna tattoo) is a form songs with dholaks and other musical instruments. The bride
of body art originating in ancient India, in which decorative has to sit for hours to get it done and then wait for it to dry so
designs are created on a person’s body using a paste created as to get a beautiful red pattern temporarily tattooed on her
from the powdered dry leaves of the henna plant. skin. It is believed that the darker the Mehndi, the stronger the
Mehndi is one of the oldest forms of body art conceived bond between the married couple.
by man. The Hindi and Arabic word Mehndi is derived from The Mehndi ceremony for the groom takes place separately
a Sanskrit word ‘mendhika’ which refers to the henna plant at his home, so after the bride’s Mehndi is done, her female
itself. Reference to uses of henna can be traced back to the relatives, especially her sisters, visit the groom’s ceremony. It
Bronze ages. In the Bible, henna is referred to as Camphire. In is great fun as the would-be sisters-in-law play pranks on their
and around the Indian subcontinent, henna was future brother-in-law and try to get some money out of him -
used as a cosmetic even before the Vedic ages. as a tradition!
India is considered the source from However, the significance of applying Indian
which body art traditions with henna IT IS Mehndi during weddings is not restricted just to
spread to different parts of the world BELIEVED sentiments and beliefs. Although these beliefs
like Egypt, Asia Minor and the Middle THAT THE make its application a much anticipated and
East. References of henna during the charming tradition, the actual reason is of much
mummification process of Pharaohs deeper meaning. Besides lending colour to the
as well as anecdotes of the famous DARKER THE body, Mehndi is a very powerful medicinal
Queen Cleopatra using henna to paint MEHNDI, THE herb. Weddings are stressful, and often cause
her body are well-known in history. headaches and fevers. As the wedding day
Prophet Muhammad is known to have STRONGER approaches, the excitement and nervous
used henna paste to colour his greying THE BOND anticipation can take its toll on the couple.
BETWEEN THE Application of Mehndi cools the body and calms
beard and was known to advocate for the nerves, which is why it is applied on the hands
its use to others as well. and feet, which house nerve endings in the body.
Traditionally, the Mehndi paste is MARRIED Although times have changed and a lot of new
COUPLE inclusions have been made into Indian weddings, the
made from dried powdered henna leaves.
The leaves are dried in the sun, ground and
sieved to obtain a fine mossy green powder, significance of the Mehndi ceremony has grown in stature.
which is then combined with water, lemon juice, Many families bring in DJs to play songs and the celebrations
drops of eucalyptus oil, and mixed till a smooth paste is go on late into the night, but if there is something that has
obtained. The paste is soaked overnight for maximum changed, it is the designs and patterns. While only intricate
infusion and then poured inside a plastic cone. Smaller cones Indian designs were traditionally applied in the past, brides
are preferred as it affords easier application. today are experimenting with Arabic and Indo-Arabic designs
The tips of the cones are cut according to the preferred and mixing shimmer pastes along with the traditional Mehndi
thickness of the lines needed. The cones are squeezed lightly paste. These intricate designs symbolise joy, beauty, spiritual
to ensure smooth, continuous flow of Mehndi. Application awakening and offering. The bride’s Mehndi can even go
is generally started from forearms, gradually moving down halfway to her knees and sometimes semi-precious stones are
the hand, ending in the fingertips. Traditional Indian embedded in the design. It is traditional to write the groom’s
designs include peacock motifs, floral designs, bride/groom name on the bride’s palm and ask him to find it. This is a fun
replicas and other elements that cover every inch of the hand, ice-breaker for the couple, especially in arranged marriages.
forearms, feet and calves. The fingertips are generally covered The Mehndi ceremony is a reflection of the rich Indian
in thick layers of henna paste. The idea is to adorn the bride’s culture, bringing together the knowledge of medicinal herbs
body in imitation of expensive Jewelry. with many lovely sentiments and beliefs. The result is a
The Mehndi ceremony takes place a day before the actual ceremony filled with fun and joy, and the perfect precursor to
wedding, and the venue is decked up with flowers and an auspicious wedding day.

www.ngaaliinflightmag.com 71

CONSERVATION

COWNZSHIALEMEDRRBVLIAOIAFT’SEION

While tourists have been home dreaming of game drives and
campfire Gins and Tonics, men like Benson and his rangers have
been working around the clock to safeguard the safari stars we’re all
so desperate to see, writes Sarah Marshall.

It started with a few taunts, escalating to sticks, stones and bigger pieces of
rubble. Now a small crowd has gathered on the main road leading to Zambia’s
South Luangwa National Park, and tensions are increasing – along with the size
of ammunition being hurled.
The focus of frayed tempers is a young bull elephant heading towards the
village of Mfuwe, lured by the scent of fruiting mangoes, too delicious to resist. Living so
close to each other, neighbourly quarrels are a fact of life, but at times – like this - they
can go too far.
“One of our colleagues was killed by an elephant,” recalls law enforcement advisor

Benson Kanyembo, as he radios for backup support to diffuse the
situation. “He was one of the best. I was with him when the
animal charged and crushed him. That was when I started
respecting elephants. Before that I used to scare them
and chase after them, but that day I changed.”
Respect for wildlife is at Benson’s core, and it’s
fair to say the protection of Zambia’s numerous
flagship species has largely been secured by the
accomplished 48-year-old’s efforts. In the last eight
years, he has trained more than 600 Zambians as
anti-poaching scouts, and is now employed by
an NGO - Conservation South Luangwa (CSL),
working closely alongside a government agency
called Department Of National Parks And
Wildlife (DNPW) to safeguard the country’s most
important assets.
His work has earned international
recognition with the prestigious Tusk
Wildlife Ranger Award, presented

72 NG'AALI MARCH - MAY 2021

CONSERVATION

in 2019 by its royal patron, Prince peaceful, calm place Benson refers to as “heaven”.
William, Duke of Cambridge. The son “I’ve seen some bosses who are so stingy they don’t want to delegate. When they
of a policeman, Benson grew up with retire, everything comes to a standstill. I don’t want to do that. I need to train others
principles. Starting as an informer at so that after I pass on, other people can continue to help save mother nature.”
the age of 22, he worked as a community The COVID-19 pandemic has delivered a huge blow to Africa’s tourism. Cruising
scout and anti-poaching scout, along the winding course of Luangwa River, Benson keeps
eventually moving to CSL in 2009. a watchful eye on the wildlife below. He’s done this same
surveillance run for many years, but today the scene looks
At 6am, as syrupy golden light trickles different.
like honey through the mopane forest, By now, most safari tourists should be out taking advantage
he deploys scouts for their daily shift. of the early morning light. Yet barely a tyre track has scratched
With 14,000sq km of ground to monitor the brittle, parched landscape. Along with a reduced number
– including the national park and of government rangers, Benson and his team have been left to
surrounding community-owned Game monitor the park alone.
Management Areas – this is not a 9-5 “The lodges and bush camps used to be our eyes and ears, but
job. Managing a team of 66 community since only a handful are open, we need to make sure we cover
scouts, who work alongside a further 111 the whole park and Game Management Areas – the whole
individuals employed by the government, He has suffered 14,000sq km.”
Benson regularly leads training sessions. Increasing protection for Africa’s assets on dwindling funds is
gruelling ordeals –
“You can have all the academic skills of
a ranger, but what’s most important is walking up to his a challenge shared by rangers across the continent. While we’ve
the mental toughness,” he explains back neck through croc- been home dreaming of game drives and campfire Gins and
at the park’s control centre, where he infested waters and Tonics, they’ve worked around the clock to safeguard the safari
maps out strategic team movements for hiking for hours with stars we’re all so desperate to see. If bubbles and buy-outs are
the next few weeks. only a small flask the solution to keeping travellers safe, these men and women
of water to quench are the equivalent saviours responsible for looking after wildlife.
Despite his reputation for being a “You can see there’s a lot of poverty and suffering going
tough disciplinarian, Benson is highly his thirst
regarded by his students. In a show
of solidarity, he has suffered gruelling on right now,” admits Benson, who recently supported the
ordeals – walking up to his neck through Tusk Wildlife Ranger Challenge race to raise funds across the
croc-infested waters and hiking for continent. “In the morning, you might see 50 people heading
hours with only a small flask of water to to one river to fish. There is also a lot of timber cutting for
quench his thirst. Protecting wildlife, by firewood. People are doing anything they can to survive.”
his own admission, is hard work and a Fortunately, there’s not been the upsurge in big game
round-the-clock responsibility. poaching everyone feared, but the number of bushmeat snares,
which indiscriminately trap animals, has increased. Like most
The following morning, we take an of the community, Benson admits he is concerned about the
aerial surveillance flight above the park, spread of COVID-19 – even though it hasn’t impacted Africa
looking for signs of fire – indicators the same way as other parts of the world.
illegal hunting has taken place. Later “CSL have distributed facemasks to officers, families and their
that afternoon, we join a Detection neighbours. We are trying to do our best to help, but in a setup
Dog Unit at a road check, searching where people sit together, eat together, go to funerals together, it’s hard for them to
for bullets or ivory stashed in cars. It’s accept they need to have this social distance.”
an overwhelming task – and one which Although the pandemic continues to pose multiple problems, Benson has
Benson, astutely, realises he can’t tackle optimistically searched for some silver linings. In many ways, he believes it has
alone. Focusing firmly on the future, brought the ranger community closer together for a common cause. Even more, it has
he’s eager to pass on his skills and train demonstrated the vital role they play in keeping Africa’s wildlife from harm.
a generation which will hopefully be But what about hamstrung tourists stuck at home? How can they
even more adept and better equipped to effectively help out?
combat wildlife crime. “People can support us by continuing to care about mother nature,” suggests Benson
with a determination that’s shaped his success as a leader over the years.
“I learned a lot from having good and “We’ll continue to do the best we can with the boots on the ground, until it’s safe to
bad leaders,” he tells me as we walk meet again and celebrate.”
along the hippo-filled Luangwa River, a

www.ngaaliinflightmag.com 73

ART

Tohf eSoLmaaasliGa eel

Laas Geel are cave formations on the
rural outskirts of Hargeisa, Somaliland,
situated in the Maroodi Jeex region of
the country. A major tourist attraction,
they contain some of the earliest known
cave paintings of domesticated African
aurochs (Bos primigenius africanus) in
the Horn of Africa. Laas Geel’s rock
art is estimated to date somewhere
around circa 18,000 BC or 20,000 years
ago. Filled with petroglyphs, these
caves are one of the oldest monuments
of the ancient culture in Africa. In an
excellent state of preservation, the rock
art depicts wild animals and decorated
cattle (cows and bulls). They also feature
herders, who are believed to be the
creators of the paintings.
Although the Laas Geel rock art had
been known to the area’s inhabitants
for centuries, its existence only came
to international attention after the
2002 discovery by French archeologists.
Somaliland in general is home to
numerous such archaeological sites
and megalithic structures, with similar
rock art found at Haadh, Gudmo Biyo
Cas, Dhambalin, Dhagah Maroodi and
numerous other sites.

74 NG'AALI MARCH - MAY 2021



ROOM WITH A VIEW

HOTEL NO.5

StaycationOFFERS AN UNFORGETTABLE

Despite the nondescript name, this is a first class
boutique hotel with marvelous staff offering superb
service in a gorgeous facility. Nestled in the leafy
suburbs of Entebbe, No. 5 has five star services and
excellent customer care, and is a great option for guests looking
for an intimate stay in a tranquil setting.
Managed by the charming Michael Rourke, the staff are happy,
friendly and always ready to help. We absolutely loved their
food - very imaginative and tasteful, with great presentation. We
will gladly take the 90-minute drive from Kampala severally, just
for the pork ribs and burgers - sublime. We even had the house
breakfast two days in a row.
The luxury apartments are spread over two floors. The ground
floor has a sitting room with an open plan kitchenette. The
bedroom is upstairs with a small outside sitting area overlooking
the garden and pool and has an en-suite bathroom with a shower.
All rooms have Wi-Fi internet access, a guest safe, flat screen TV,
direct dial telephone, and a filter coffee maker.
The luxury twins and doubles are on the ground level. Each
room has a small outside seating area opening onto the gardens
and swimming pool and has an ensuite bathroom with a shower.
“The Residence” is a beautiful standalone fully serviced and
equipped two bedroom house with ample living areas and a
fully equipped kitchen. With a dedicated full-time staff, it is
the ultimate in luxury for those wanting to spend more time in
Entebbe.
The deep blue pool and spa, coupled with the lush greenery all
around, make for the most relaxing getaway. Unwind beside the
swimming pool, pamper yourself with a spa treatment, or work
up a sweat in the hotel gym. A notable highlight is the outdoor
movie night on Wednesdays, reminiscent of the 50s and 60s
cinemas.
No. 5 is a beautiful gem, a calm place to lay down and rest, eat
well and unwind. You will love it!
For more information, please visit hotelnumber5.com

76 NG'AALI MARCH - MAY 2021



ROOM WITH A VIEW

Kruger Shalati
A SAFARI FROM ABOVE

Ng’aali takes a look around a new, first-of-its-kind hotel suspended
50 feet above South Africa’s iconic Kruger National Park.

GUESTS AT THE NEW KRUGER SHALATI’S TRAIN ON THE BRIDGE
are waking up to a whole new way of seeing the Big 5 atop the historic Selati
Bridge, where some of Kruger National Park’s first visitors used to stay overnight.
Permanently stationed on the Selati Bridge above the Sabie River, this hotel provides
a vantage point not known anywhere else in safari Africa. Think unique luxury
accommodation in a re-envisioned train that pays homage to guests who explored the
park nearly 100 years ago.
SITUATED AS A GATEWAY TO KRUGER NATIONAL PARK
According to the hotel owners, Shalati was the name of a 19th Century female warrior
chief who was one of the first women to rule the Tebula Clan, part of the Tsonga
tribe that lived in the bush around the Murchison range in the present-day Limpopo
Province. Shalati was a strong independent woman who protected her clan without
the need for a king.

The hotel has 31 rooms which include 24 carriage rooms accessed by an external
walkway on the 984ft-long bridge, and a further seven land-based rooms in Bridge
House which is positioned next to the bridge, also overlooking the river and the Train
on the Bridge. These include a honeymoon suite and rooms that can be connected
to form family suites. All rooms celebrate local art and design, have floor-to-ceiling
windows allowing guests to spot crocodiles, hippos and elephants from their beds,
along with sweeping views of the river and grasslands beyond. There is also a lounge
carriage with a bar and a large deck with relaxing pool and panoramic views providing
game viewing opportunities down on the river. Guests can grab their camera and
binoculars and head out on two game drives a day in search of the Big 5 with expert
guides.

This unique accommodation has the respected South African tourism firm Thebe
Tourism Group as the main shareholder. They are committed to developing iconic and
unique tourism products which enhance the lives of communities. COVID-19 caused
several months’ delays to the hotel’s development, but they are now ready to welcome
guests. “To see our ambitious dream of putting an elevated train hotel on a bridge
inside the iconic Kruger National Park come to life, after all the intense planning
and hard work, is a feeling of elation and pride. We are delighted to finally be able to
welcome visitors to Kruger Shalati for a unique and memorable experience,”says Judiet
Barnes, the Sales, Marketing and Brand Executive for Kruger Shalati. The hotel is an
exciting and truly unique African travel experience that will be on the bucket list of
many a globetrotter, so get there while you can, before it gets booked up.

Rates range from ZAR 7,950 per person per night, which includes all meals, house
drinks, two daily game drives, and transfers. www.krugershalati.com

78 NG'AALI MARCH - MAY 2021

ROOM WITH A VIEW

INSPIRED BY HISTORY
Kruger Shalati is a modern
throwback to the national park’s
origins as a travel destination
when the first visits to the park
were permitted in the early 1920s.
Initially established in 1898 as the
Sabie game reserve, it was renamed
Kruger National Park in 1926 after
the proclamation of the national
parks act when it merged with
neighbouring Shingwedzi Game
Reserve. Since its inception, Kruger
National Park and rail travel have
a deep history. For several years,
this iconic game reserve was largely
only accessible by rail. In 1923,
South African Railways instituted
a nine day rail trip of the Lowveld,
including an overnight stop at
Sabie Bridge in the exact spot
where Kruger Shalati is positioned.
As there were no overnight
facilities for the public, tourists
would sleep in their carriages and
wake up to the sunrise views over
the river before moving on to their
next destination. These visits to
the Sabie Game Reserve - along
the Selati railway line - proved
so popular that rangers later
accompanied the tourists on the
train and arranged excursions into
the bush on foot. In 1957, the first
wilderness trails were established
and the start of the Kruger
experience as we know it was born.

www.ngaaliinflightmag.com 79

FASHION

FOUINTOCDF OINNGFBUEASUIOTNY
Words by Hassan Ssentongo, Photos by Walter Photography

W hen Uganda went
into lockdown in
March 2020 due to
COVID-19, almost
all in the creative industry were thrown
into a state of sheer confusion. The
country’s lively and colourful creative
scene, upon which most of them drew
their inspiration, was replaced with
silence.
“We felt hopeless, wondering how and
if we could cope in this unique time,”
Teddy Nabisenke tells me via video
call. The visual artist had carved a niche
as one of Kampala’s most in-demand
jewellery designers at the time, serving
clients across the world and relying
on Kampala’s glittering social scene
to promote her art. In fact, she had
permanently closed her physical shop to
focus on pop-up shops at festivals, posh
coffee shops and restaurants.
“Then boom, everything came to a
pause, and not just any pause, but a
really long one!” she recalls. Physical
interaction was completely out of
the picture, no one was meeting
anyone. And the cash cow that was the
expatriates and tourists was also out of
the picture. However, this confusion
offered the artist a rare opportunity to
sit back and reflect. “Truly, there were
so many lessons, and that’s what I’m so
thankful for,” she says.
For a long time, her offering of
bespoke handmade jewellery had catered
to mostly non-Ugandans, because they
were more willing to spend on art than

80 NG'AALI MARCH - MAY 2021

FASHION

the typical Ugandan. This had to change. directed at both the victims of human
“I realised that we had to create for, and trafficking and the governments who are
solve the problems of the local consumer.” indifferent to the realities of it.

Perhaps the biggest opportunity from On what it will take for the creative
this, for Nabisenke, was the ability arts industry to grow beyond the
to pivot. Because everyone was home confines of our borders, she’s quick to
pretty much the whole time, the need note that Uganda has a wealth of great
to reinvigorate the appearance of the talent.
home space became imminent. Interior
decor slowly took over as a giant revenue “We have so much to offer, you
stream for her, something she took in haven’t even seen a quarter of what’s
good stride and adapted. out there. However, we still need a
levelled ground to work from. Creatives
As the lockdown restrictions are need a conducive space to think freely
slowly eased, her interior decor business and share openly. When the internet is
hasn’t stopped growing. She specialises shut down, thousands of businesses get
in lamps, lamp holders, wall accents, affected, impeding the growth of the
photo frames, vases, candle holders, industry.”
doormats, cushions, mirrors, curtains
and more; each piece carrying the bold On the issue of sustainability, which
and ‘in your face’ extravagance her brand is a hot topic in fashion right now,
is known for. Nabisenke believes that the industry
needs to do better.
“I find solid colours so mundane to
look at,” she says of her design aesthetic. “As we steer this movement forward,
“I enjoy it when a client involves we need to be honest. So many brands
themselves in the design process. Picking are using the ‘sustainability card’ to win
ideas from elsewhere to add to mine customers without actually putting the
gives me the freedom to have fun as I
design.” “I FIND SOLID COLOURS SO MUNDANE
TO LOOK AT..I ENJOY IT WHEN A CLIENT
Born in Kampala in a family of seven, INVOLVES THEMSELVES IN THE DESIGN
and raised by ‘artsy parents’, Nabisenke PROCESS. PICKING IDEAS FROM ELSEWHERE
knew very early on that she would TO ADD THO AMVINEE FGUIVNES ME THE FREEDOM TO
become an artist. AS I DESIGN.”

“Each of my siblings and cousins had a right systems in place,” she notes. For
special talent; if they weren’t fine artists, her own brand, she ensures that each
they were singers or performers. And product is of high quality and with
here I was, with none of those talents. impeccable finishing.
However, I found comfort in beading
and jewellery.” “Great art should be ageless and
timeless - it should never go out of style.
While this was atypical to the It should be something you’ll wear or
family, she received all the support she use for as long as you wish, and pass on
needed. She pursued her talent all the to your offspring. Also, almost all the
way through school, graduating with a materials we work with are recycled and
Bachelor of Arts Degree in Industrial all products are recyclable too.”
and Fine Arts at The Margaret Trowell Get in touch with her at teddynabisenke@
School of Industrial and Fine Arts, gmail.com
Makerere University.

Through her work, she has
participated in various local and
international exhibitions, often tackling
social issues such as human trafficking,
family planning and HIV. One of her
installments was titled Okutambula
Kulaba Okudda Kunyumya (If you’ve
travelled, you’ll have a story to tell),

www.ngaaliinflightmag.com 81

TRENDS As we trudge
through this pandemic,
Ptheucorlopurle! it is unwise to dwell on the
negative. Hope and optimism
should be at the centre of our hearts.
When it comes to colours, none evokes
the sense of imagination we desire,
more than purple. This energetic shade
stimulates the imagination and
inspires high ideals, allowing us
to get in touch with our

deeper thoughts.

Scarf - Asyanut Sandals - Iconic,
Safaris, Jumbo Senana Mall,
Plaza Basement

Beanie - Mr. Price,
Acacia Mall

Crotchet
Swimsuit -
Ninamire,
ninamire.com

Leather Jacket Micro Bag - Posh by Hairband -
- Iconic, Senana KC, Kingsgate Mall, Ms Atai Hair,
Mall, Basement Kabalagala msatai.com

Gown - Aliad
Zoe, Nsambya,
behind the
American
Embassy

Sneakers - Mwiza Store, Kooki
Tower, Level 7, Shop 701

82 NG'AALI MARCH - MAY 2021

GUIDES AND TIPS

PBUASCINKEISNS GTRTAVIPESL corporate travel to gain points or miles
on your airline, hotel or travel credit
card of choice. You should also choose a
credit card without foreign transaction
fees.

8 Charge electronics before you fly.
Your phone, laptop and tablet should all
have plenty of battery to help you pass
time productively in the airport and on
your flight. You won’t need to fight for
an outlet at your gate either.

9 Use programs that speed up your
travel. Check into your flights online
and print your boarding pass before
heading to the airport. Apply for TSA
Precheck and Global Entry to gain
access to faster-moving security and
customs around the world.

1 Use only carry-on bags. 4 Pack with security checkpoints 10 Book non-stop flights. Layovers
Lugging a large suitcase through a in mind. Depending on where you’re lengthen trips. A two or three hour stop
foreign city or having your luggage travelling to, you will have to follow mid-trip can mean spending an extra
lost before your destination is no way various security protocols. day on the road, waking up earlier than
to start a business trip. Pack light Your liquids and electronics
to keep all your belongings in your should be easily accessible. necessary or having a suitcase that
allotted carry-on bags. 5 Invest in good luggage didn’t make the same
2 Keep essentials packed between and accessories. A suitcase transfer you did.
trips. Having extra toiletries, chargers, that is easy to pack and 11 Pay for an airport
office supplies and business cards maneuver is worth the lounge membership.
ready in your bag can save you time investment. A small digital Most airlines provide
each time you travel. scale that fits in a side lounges with plenty of
Pack dress shirts in plastic garment pocket can help you avoid food, outlets and quiet
bags. The plastic bags your dry costly charges for a suitcase space for a reasonable
cleaning is delivered in can help keep over the airline’s weight limit. cost. Spend your time
shirts from wrinkling in your suitcase. 6 Pack items that help you sleep. waiting for your flight away
3 Include casual clothes, not just Prioritise a pillow, headphones or eye mask
suits. Having business-appropriate to help you sleep while at a hotel or on from the hustle and bustle of
clothing is important. However, the plane. A good night of sleep is more everyone waiting for flights.
you’ll likely have time to explore your important than a fourth pair of shoes. 12 Print important confirmation
surroundings on foot and have a 7 For smooth business travel, join numbers. While no one likes to think
casual dinner one night. Packing gym rewards programs. Take advantage of your about losing their phone, it is possible to
clothes is also important. run out of battery just as you need your
boarding pass or confirmation number.
Print your itinerary and keep a copy in
each of your bags.

www.ngaaliinflightmag.com 83

SAFARIGUIDES AND TIPS
PACKING LIST

Video Recording Sunglasses Waterproof Universal Travel Power Strip
They record snaps and sync them to Backpack They have multiple USB charging
your Snapchat Memories. Prevent ports, AC sockets, and universal
Money Belt rain and charge for UK, EU, Aus, and
Keep your money and valuables out precipitation US sockets.
of sight with this belt. from seeping
into your
backpack and
damaging its
contents.

Mini Wine Bag Smartphone Gimbal The Portable
A stylish and practical accessory The built-in controls AeroPress
ideal for picnics and other alfresco rotate your phone in Mix a rich hot
occasions away from one sweeping motion for cuppa on the
home. perfect footage. go, anytime,
Mini Steam Iron anywhere.
Featuring three fabric heating levels, this Refillable Sanitiser Wristband
iron removes inevitable wrinkles from Shaped like a watch, it’s easy to fill, attach
packed clothing. to your wrist, and dispense sanitiser with
ease.

84 NG'AALI MARCH - MAY 2021

THreaavletlh GUIDES AND TIPS

WCaelaetnhdearr

Don’t let sickness stifle your travel plans. Here are tips to keep you Best time to visit Uganda month by month:
in good health while in Uganda. JANUARY TO FEBRUARY
This is one of the two best seasons out of the year to visit
COVID-19 PCR TEST AND MASKS Uganda because this is considered a dry season with little
All travellers will be required to present to the airline, proof to no rainfall. It is a popular time for trekking mountain
of a negative PCR test result for COVID-19, conducted 72 gorillas and chimpanzees as well as birdwatching and
hours or less before departure and done by a health facility viewing a variety of wildlife.
accredited by the host Government. Passengers must carry MARCH TO MAY
along an official printed certificate as SMS and digital This is when the Uganda climate changes to one of the
certificates will not be accepted. wet seasons. Some rains can be heavy, causing flooding
While in transit, the returnee will be required to adhere and road inaccessibility. However, if you don’t mind
to the host country’s Standard Operating Procedures the rain, you could save money during this time with
(SOPs) for safe travel and the SOPs provided by the airline reduced accommodation rates. You will also appreciate
while on the plane. This includes wearing a face mask and the lush scenery and abundance of migratory birds during
sanitisation. this period.
JUNE TO AUGUST
YELLOW FEVER HEALTH CARD Another dry season, this period is one of the best times to
A must for most African nations, get these from your visit for wildlife viewing. It is possible that you could see
doctor, and don’t wait until the last minute! Aside from some rains during these months, but it most likely will not
vaccinations, don’t forget your necessary medications. ruin your itinerary.
According to the CDC, yellow fever vaccination is required SEPTEMBER TO OCTOBER
to enter Uganda if you are travelling from a country with While you can expect rainfall during these months, you
risk of transmission. should still be able to enjoy excellent opportunities to
view wildlife.
FIRST AID KIT NOVEMBER
Out in the wilderness, the nearest town could be hours or November is when you may experience heavy rain showers
even days away. This means catching a cold could turn into turning the landscape green again. This is another good
a miserable experience. That is why it’s important to pack time to see migratory birds.
some cough drops, Sudafed, diarrhoea medication, Aspirin, DECEMBER
Dramamine, and allergy medication. You don’t need to December is when the rains slack off and temperatures start
bring a full first aid kit, as most lodges and guides have their to rise along with gorilla tracking rates. If you can’t stand
own. Simply think about the first aid medications you may the heat, December may present a better month to visit
need if you start feeling sick. than January and February.

HAND SANITISER
Why not protect yourself as much as possible? Getting sick
is tough, but getting sick on a safari could be a nightmare.
There are times when clean water for hand washing may not
be available, so hand sanitiser will come in handy.

www.ngaaliinflightmag.com 85

NG’AALI KIDS
HOW WELL DO

YOU KNOW YOUR SAFARI
COLLECTIVE NOUNS?
Although large gatherings are not conducive with
COVID-19 social distancing rules right now, it doesn’t stop our
incredible wildlife from congregating together and finding safety in
numbers. But, how well do you know your safari collective nouns?
Here are some of our favourites.
● An armoury of aardvarks
● A business of mongoose
● A cloud of bats
● A kaleidoscope of butterflies
● An army of caterpillars
● A coalition of cheetahs
● A herd of elephants
● A flamboyance of flamingos
● A tower of giraffes
● A band of gorillas
● A confusion of guinea fowls
● A bloat of hippos
● A colony of honey badgers
● A fork of kudus
● A conspiracy of lemurs
● A leap of leopards
● A pride of lions
● A lounge of lizards
● A parliament of owls
● An ostentation of peacocks
● A prickle of porcupines
● A crash of rhinos
● A bed of scorpions

● A dazzle of zebras











ROUTES

92 NG'AALI MARCH - MAY 2021

Expansion Map

Sales & Ticketing Offices

Kampala: Victoria University Towers, Jinja Road, Kampala - Uganda | Tel: Tel: +256 (0)200 406 400 | Email: [email protected]
Entebbe Town: Victoria Mall, Shop G.09, Ground Floor, Berkeley Road Entebbe | Tel: +256 (0)200 406 421 / +256 707110416 |
Email: [email protected]
Entebbe International Airport: 2nd Floor, Passenger Terminal Building | Tel: +256 (0) 200406420

Nairobi City: 12th floor Lonrho House, Standard Street | Tel: +254 707 900777 / +254 100 900777 | Email: [email protected]

Nairobi Airport: Terminal 2, Jomo Kenyatta International Airport | Tel: +254 101 090 644 | Email: [email protected]
Dar es Salaam: Viva Towers, G09/10, Ali Hassan Mwinyi Road, Dar es Salaam, Tanzania | Tel: +255 764 111983 | +255 765 426554 |
Email: [email protected]
Juba: SADECO Building, Airport Road | Tel: +211 (0)928900500, +211 (0)917747159 | Email: [email protected]

Bujumbura: Ground Floor, Jubilee Centre Building | Chausee prince Louis Rwagasore | Tel: +257 22 280844 | Email: [email protected]

Mogadishu: Aden Adde International Airport, Mogadishu | Tel: +252 (0)615550020 | +252 (0)615141315 | Email: [email protected]

Kinshasa: Avenue du Col. Lukusa No 32 BIS | Tel: +243 817 860 333 | Email: [email protected]

Mombasa: Nyali Center, Ground floor | Tel: +254 100 396810 / +256 100 396811 | Email: [email protected]

Arusha / Kilimanjaro: 2nd floor, Ngorongoro Conversation Building | Tel: +255 652 682 851 / +255 713 414 777 | Email: [email protected]

Cargo, Mail and Parcels: Entebbe International Airport | Cargo Terminal Room 29 | Cell: +256 (0) 758 380065 | Mail: [email protected]
HEAD OFFICES: Uganda National Airlines Company Limited dba Uganda Airlines | EagleAir Hangar Complex | Entebbe International Airport - Old Airport |
P.O. Box 431, Entebbe, Uganda | Tel: +(256)200 406 400 | Email: [email protected]

www.ngaaliinflightmag.com 93

TRAVELLER REVIEW

WHAT TRAVEL EXPERTS THINK ABOUT UGANDA

The best way to know what to expect of a destination is to seek what the experts say.

Here are three travel experts who have visited Uganda several times and what they think about it.

ALAN MURPHY GEMMA PITCHER SUE WATT

Murphy is a travel writer and author Pitcher has authored several Lonely Planet Watt is an award-winning writer
of over 20 Lonely Planet guidebooks, guidebooks, including the guides to Africa, who specialises in African travel and
including the guides to Southern Kenya, Tanzania and South Africa. conservation. She writes for national
Africa and Zambia & Malawi. newspapers, magazines, Rough Guides
Gorillas, chimps and classic safaris and Lonely Planet.
Uganda – Wildlife secrets revealed Uganda’s top-billing wildlife attraction
If you haven’t got it on your list of is of course a visit to the Bwindi Forest Great apes, great landscapes,
East African safari destinations I National Park to trek gorillas. This great adventures
suggest you add it…quickly. Watching is an experience I’ve never heard a Most people understandably come
wildlife is a unique experience in this negative review of and it’s definitely on to Uganda for its mountain gorillas
welcoming and stunningly beautiful my lifetime must-do list. But if time – half of the world’s population of
country. What you do find in Uganda (there’s often a year-long waiting list around 730 lives in Bwindi, but
is a variety of spectacular landscapes, for independent visitors), money or there’s a lot more to Uganda than
from thick forests studded with giant fitness prevents you from hooking up this. In Murchison Falls NP, the
ironwood and mahogany trees to with these hairy celebrities, you can wild Nile squeezes through a tiny
open, rolling savannah backed with substitute chimpanzees for gorillas fissure in the Rift Valley Escarpment
the silhouettes of jagged mountains – in Kibale National Park. Be warned forming one of the most dramatic
habitats which provide all manner of though that the chimps here are not as waterfalls on the continent.
exciting wildlife moments on safari. habituated to humans as the gorillas Similarly, Rwenzori Mountains
– on my visit, the only hint of their National Park reopened 10 years ago
At the top of the list are those presence was an abandoned nest high and is now on the schedule of many
critically endangered, gentle furballs in the treetops. adventure travel operators offering
– mountain gorillas. Uganda is one of climbs of Mount Stanley.
the three countries in the world where Murchison Falls National Park is a
you can see mountain gorillas in the great option if you are already in the Queen Elizabeth NP is deservedly
wild. There are also plenty of monkeys country, being only a day’s drive from known as Uganda’s premier wildlife
scampering around the forests. In Kampala, and boasting spectacular reserve and as home to some 600+
Kibale National Park for example, waterfalls and fun river safaris to spot bird species, is regarded by birding
you’ll probably be woken by the Spoonbill storks and hippos. enthusiasts as one of the best on
screeching calls of up to 13 different the continent.
kinds of primates. And that brings
us to chimpanzees; their ability to Adrenaline junkies will want to
seem ‘human’ through small gestures, try white water rafting along the
movements and expressions will leave Nile at Jinja, one of the scariest
you astonished. experiences of my life.

94 NG'AALI MARCH - MAY 2021

BBOOOOKKSHELF

OUR BEST travel book RECOMMENDATIONS

Seeking inspiration for your next trip to Africa? Pick up a book, be it a biography, historical page-turner or mesmerising novel.
Our top Africa travel books all feature irresistible African settings and protagonists (real and fictionalised) who show tremendous
passion, resilience and humanity in the face of adversity. We bet you’ll want to get on that plane to these destinations before you
turn the last page!

THE GREEN EDIT: TRAVEL: FODOR’S GUIDES ALL GOD’S CHILDREN NEED
EASY TIPS FOR THE ECO- Welcome to Lagos. Lagos’s combo TRAVELLING SHOES
FRIENDLY TRAVELLER of grit and (chaos) is bound to By Maya Angelou
By Juliet Kinsman mesmerize all those keen to Published in 1986, this is the fifth
The pandemic has given us the explore its vibrant culture, intense book in African-American writer
chance to think about how we parties, charismatic souls, rich and poet Maya Angelou’s seven-
experience travel in the future history and fabulous food. This volume autobiography series. Set
and how we can become a more guide exposes the mystery, the between 1962 and 1965, the book
responsible and sustainable charm and all that Lagos has to begins when Angelou is 33 years
traveller. You can now explore offer to the bold traveller looking old, and recounts the years she
the world and satisfy your to immerse themselves in a truly lived in Accra, Ghana.
wanderlust in the most eco- African experience.
friendly way with tips and stories
from British sustainability BFWOOHEORN KIMTSHEISNTTKOIOLFLRALELLAETFHDET,
expert Juliet Kinsman. From I AM HCEARTPAIPNIONFEFUSRSTHER
booking to boarding, and tips for
lesser-known holiday spots, find JULES RENARD
everything you need to know for a
lower-impact getaway. Being green
has never been so gratifying.

www.ngaaliinflightmag.com 95

TRAVEL GUIDE GENERAL INFORMATION

Welcome to the Pearl! Voltage

GETTING AROUND The primary wall outlet type is Type G (BS-1363). Voltage is
220-240 volts AC @ 50 Hz.
1.Transfer to the city/your hotel Laptops and gadgets in general have chargers that are
already compatible with 100-240 volts. If yours is higher
Thanks to reliable Internet at the airport, it's possible for you or lower, you will need a simple plug adapter. The
to order an Uber ride to your next destination in Kampala or recommended adapter for a Type G outlet is #EA7.
Entebbe. If you are in a hurry, you can take advantage of the
availability of the many cabs at the airport whose drivers are Security
always stationed at the arrivals terminal, ready for a win-win
bargain with travellers. Uganda’s towns are safe to visit any time of the year.
This development has been achieved through effective
2.Visa collaboration of the different security organs like the army
(Uganda People’s Defence Forces), Uganda Police and
Visitors to Uganda must have a valid visa in accordance with Tourism Police. That said, like any other city, Kampala too
national immigration laws, guidelines and formalities. Uganda has its share of trouble makers. It is thus not advisable to
visas can now be obtained online at https://visas.immigration. walk alone in isolated areas, especially at night.
go.ug/
Alternatively, you may obtain the visa at Uganda's missions Water
abroad or on arrival at the ports of entry around the country’s
borders. The costs of visas are as follows: Single entry $50 It is safer to drink boiled or bottled water. The average price
per individual, multiple entry visa 6-12 months $100 and East of bottled water is Shs1,000 per 500ml.
African tourist visas cost $50. Accompany your application
documents with a valid yellow fever certificate. For more Transport
information, visit https://visas.immigration.go.ug/
The easiest and fastest way to get around cities is boda-boda
3. Nationals who don’t need visas rides; a motorbike mode of transportation that offers taxi
services - each is limited to carrying one passenger. The
Nationals of the following countries don’t need visas when most professional service provider in this case is Uber Boda,
visiting Uganda: COMESA (Angola, Eritrea, Malawi, Safe Boda and Taxify, all of which can be accessed via their
Madagascar, Seychelles, Swaziland, Zambia, Comoros, Kenya, mobile phone applications.
Mauritius, Zimbabwe and Botswana), East Africa (Kenya, If you prefer using vehicles/cabs and wish to avoid traffic,
Rwanda, Tanzania and Burundi), others (Antigua, Barbados, the recommended time for travel is 6am to 8am, 10am
Fiji, Grenada, Lesotho, Sierra Leone, Solomon Islands, The to12pm and 3pm to 5pm.
Grenadines, Vanuatu, Ghana, Cyprus, Bahamas, Belize, Gambia,
Jamaica, Malta, Singapore, St. Vincent-Tonga and Ireland). Language

IMPORTANT CONTACTS Uganda is home to over 50 ethnic groups, the majority of
whom speak the national language, English. If you wish to
EMERGENCY CONTACTS get interpreters of foreign languages, visit the website of
Uganda Ambulance Services: Mob +256782556878 your country’s high commission / embassy in Kampala.
Medical flight evacuations: Mob Aero Club, Fly Uganda
Mob +256772712557 Financial transactions
Uganda Police: Emergency 999/112. UPF Headquarters
+256414233814; +256414250613. The most used currency is Uganda Shillings, the national
Department of Immigration: Mob +256414595945 currency. Tourist areas and facilities accept foreign
currencies too, particularly US dollars. Cash is the
OTHER CONTACTS preferred means of transaction in Uganda. Credit cards are
Uganda Wildlife Authority (manages national parks): less dependable because of unreliable internet connection
+256414355000/+256312355000 in some areas.
Uganda Tourism Board: +256414342196/7
Forex

The foreign exchange rates at forex bureaus are more
favourable than those at banks. The main street of most
towns is where you will find the highest concentration of
forex bureaus. In Kampala, go to Jinja-Kampala road.

Banking and Office hours

Most commercial banks and corporate offices operate from
8am to 5pm on weekdays and 9am to 12pm on Saturdays.
Most don’t open on Sundays.

96 NG'AALI MARCH - MAY 2021

A PERFECT ESCAPE

FOR BUSINESS OR LEISURE

With 144 rooms, an outdoor swimming pool, a health club, conference
facilities, 3 restaurants, 3 bars, laundry services, a business center, gardens
with a natural ambience, Lake Victoria Hotel - Entebbe is a fitting choice
for a retreat away from the bustle and noise of the city.

Day Offer Price
Friday Show-cooking with live Band Ugx 60,000 with a soda
Saturday BBQ Dinner Ugx 60,000 with a soda
Friday - Sunday Weekend offer on accommodation $140 double, $100 single
Daily Drought Beer – buy 2 get 1 free, from 6pm Ugx 16,000 for 3 beers

Plot 23/31 Circular Road | P. O Box 15, Entebbe | Tel: +256 312 310 100/+256 414 351 600
Email: [email protected]

Want to Hire the Right
person Faster? Call us

1 Save 2 Save 3 Get the
Time Money Best

ADVISORY +256 772 159 740/ 704 607 167
CONSULTING [email protected]
OUTSOURCING www.welcometoebc.com

BTRYADVEELSRTEQINUIARETMIEONTNS

Uganda Airlines has undertaken the necessary safety measures In case of any medical emergency while in the United Republic
in compliance with approved guidelines by host Governments of Tanzania, please call the toll-free Health Emergency Number
aimed at protecting passengers and crew. The following 199.
guidelines will be applicable for all our flights. For more information check: https://www.traveldoc.aero /

All travellers will be required to present to the airline, proof of a SOUTH SUDAN (JUBA)
negative PCR test result for COVID-19, conducted within 72 hours
of departure and done by a health facility accredited by the No quarantine is mandated in South Sudan.
host Government. Passengers must carry along an official printed All arriving passengers are required to present a valid COVID-19
certificate as SMS and digital certificates will not be accepted. certificate from an approved laboratory in a departure country,
tested within 72 hours before travel, and must provide a letter of
While in transit, the returnee will be required to adhere to the No Objection while entering South Sudan.
host country’s Standard Operating Procedures (SOPs) for safe For more information check: https://www.traveldoc.aero/
travel and the SOPs provided by the airline while on the plane.
This includes wearing a face mask and sanitisation. KENYA (NAIROBI, MOMBASA)

Every individual traveller is advised to carry a spare mask(s) in Passengers will be refused entry if not holding a hard copy
case they need to replace the original one that they have. Used of a negative PCR test certificate obtained within 96 hours
masks will only be disposed of in a facility provided for that before departure. This does not apply to passengers holding a
purpose. diplomatic passport and their accompanying family members,
provided they are holding a negative PCR test certificate
UGANDA (ENTEBBE) obtained within 7 days before departure.
Passengers are required to submit a Travellers Health
All departing and arriving passengers will be subjected to Surveillance Form online at https://ears.health.go.ke/
temperature checks and enhanced screening. Passengers who airline_registration/.
may have a body temperature above 37.5℃ (99.5°F) or any Passengers are required to fill a Passenger Locator Form during
symptoms of coronavirus will be referred to further management their flights to Kenya, due to the outbreak of novel coronavirus.
which may include testing and/or quarantine. (72 hours) Passengers must have a body temperature not above 37.5℃
No quarantine will be applicable for travellers with a negative (99.5°F) and must not have any symptoms of coronavirus. They
PCR test, body temperature below 37.5℃ (99.5°F), and who do must hold a QR code showing they have completed a Travellers
not present any symptoms of COVID-19. Health Surveillance Form online prior to departure. This is
For more information check: https://www.traveldoc.aero / completed online here: https://ears.health.go.ke/airline_
registration /
TANZANIA (DAR ES SALAAM, KILIMANJARO, For more information check: https://www.traveldoc.aero/
ZANZIBAR )
SOMALIA (MOGADISHU)
All travellers whether foreign or returning residents entering or
leaving the United Republic of Tanzania will be subjected to Check: https://www.traveldoc.aero /
enhanced screening for COVID-19 infection. There will be no 14
days of mandatory quarantine. BURUNDI (BUJUMBURA)
All travellers whether foreigners or returning residents whose
countries or airlines require them to get tested for COVID-19 and Check: https://www.traveldoc.aero /
turn negative, as a condition for travelling, will be required to
present a certificate upon arrival. Travellers from other countries TRAVEL ADVISORIES
with symptoms and signs related to COVID-19 infection will
undergo enhanced screening and may be tested for RT-PCR. Please note that some travel advisories have been issued
While in the country, all international travellers should observe by a number of countries and may include travel restrictions.
adherence to Infection. Prevention and control measures such as Some of the countries on our network that have issued travel
hand hygiene, wearing masks, and keeping physical distancing restrictions include Uganda, Kenya, Tanzania, Somalia, South
are deemed appropriate. Sudan, and Bujumbura. For more details, please visit: https://
All travellers are required to truthfully fill out a Traveller’s www.iatatravelcentre.com/international-travel-document-
Surveillance Form available onboard or in any other transport news/1580226297.htm
means and submit to Port Health Authorities upon arrival.
All international arriving passengers shall dispose of their masks Important: All travellers on Uganda Airlines are required to
after use during travel at designated waste collection containers reconfirm their flight within 72 hours to their travel date.
upon arrival.

98 NG'AALI MARCH - MAY 2021

ROOM WITH A VIEW ROOM WITH A VIEW

YoUR fRee CopY JANUARY- MARCH 2020 Mahogany Springs Lodge

BWINDI IMPENETRABLE NATIONAL PARK

Mahogany Springs is situated in one of the
most intimate, secluded, beautiful, and most
importantly, natural settings in the world –
Bwindi Impenetrable Forest, Uganda. The mist
covered hillsides of Bwindi are blanketed by one
of Uganda’s oldest and most biologically diverse
rainforests, a habitat for over 450 mountain
gorillas, roughly half of the world’s population,
including several habituated groups which can be
tracked. Surrounded by over 300 sq. km of tropical
rainforest, Mahogany Springs makes the most of
its location, offering guests privacy and serenity
in a spectacular setting.

All 11 huge luxurious suites have their own
exquisitely designed terrace with magnificent
panoramic views over the forest, lodge gardens
and Munyanga River, giving a feeling of total
immersion in this lush rainforest.

Being in the middle of the forest means gorilla
families in the surrounding area often pay a visit
to the lodge gardens, giving a surprise gorilla
experience for guests.

Spend the day tracking gorillas through the
forest, engaging with the local community and
tribes, or sitting on the terrace of your room
listening to the sounds of the forest, and maybe
the odd primate visitor as time slowly passes by.

Mahogany Springs is open year-round and
offers luxurious suites from $240 per person per
night sharing, including all meals.

Find out more at www.mahoganysprings.com

JANUARY - MARCH 2020 94 NG'AALI JANUARY - MARCH 2020 www.ngaaliinflightmag.com 95

Bugisu’s Imbalu DESTINATION KENYA DESTINATION KENYA
62 NG'AALI INAUGURAL ISSUE OCT - DEC 2019
A teenager’s bittersweet Crazy times on the
rite of passage
Lunatic Express
The African Kanga
www.ngaaliinflightmag.com The plan to build a W ith the blast of a horn, like a wounded
A traditional form of thousand-kilometre bull elephant, the old train rumbled
African twitter railway track from the into Nairobi Station. There was a flurry
Indian Ocean into the of activity as passengers hauled luggage to the
Trekking The Magnificent heart of Africa was edge of the platform. To the Swahili travellers,
RWENZORI MOUNTAINS considered by many to this train is known as gari la moshi (the car that
be utterly insane. Mark smokes), but most tourists know it as The Lunatic
NAIRoBI • MoMBASA • MoGADISHU • JUBA • DAR eS SALAAM • KILIMANJARo • BUJUMBURA • ZANZIBAR Eveleigh boards the train Express.
that, a century later, is still There have been accusations of lunacy ever
called The Lunatic Express. since the idea was conceived to build a railway
line from the Indian Ocean over a thousand
Words and photos by Mark Eveleigh kilometres to Kampala, in the heart of Africa.
Now, more than a hundred years after the project
was started, friends in Nairobi looked at me like
I was equally crazy when I told them that my
girlfriend Nina and I planned to take the train to
Mombasa.
“But the plane is so much faster,” a bush-pilot
friend exclaimed. “Even the matatu minibuses
are quicker and cheaper and probably more
comfortable too,” a park ranger told me. “You are
crazy to go by train,” they all seemed to agree.
Just as I was on the verge of being convinced,
an old friend who is an experienced East Africa
correspondent weighed in on the side of lunacy:
“The building of that railway line was one of the
crazy things that could really only happen in
Africa. Everybody should experience the Lunatic
Express while they’re in Kenya,” he said. “I’ve
done it three times.”
Reassured by his enthusiasm, I booked two
tickets and by mid-afternoon the next day, we
were already dragging our bags into a surprisingly
crowded Rift Valley Railway carriage. “Either
there are a lot of crazy people in Nairobi, or there
are a few good reasons for taking the Lunatic
Express after all,” Nina pointed out.
Within a few minutes, we were already
convinced that our decision had been the right
one. The tracks slithered quickly away from the
grumbling traffic on Mombasa Road and further
ahead, we passed within a few metres of the

www.ngaaliinflightmag.com 63

Reach your target audience!

Acacia Mall, 4th Floor +256 782 555 213 www.ngaaliinflightmag.com
14-18 Cooper Rd +256 772 666 370
P.O Box 400 Kampala, Uganda

NAIROBI • MOMBASA • MOGADISHU • JUBA • DAR ES SALAAM • KILIMANJARO • BUJUMBURA • ZANZIBAR • KINSHASA