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Published by aminamenia14, 2018-10-10 19:30:00

Amina Menia Undélaissé

Amina Menia Undélaissé

UNDélaissé

UNDélaissé

to reminisce the future
by sharing bread and stories

Amina Menia
Illustration by Alex Foster

TO REMINISCE THE FUTURE BY SHARING BREAD AND STORIES

A promenade in Folkestone, images sounds and flavours… and then,
Tontine Street. A deserted space. A void. Silence.
I discovered a space corroded by time and buddleias. The myth says
that a bakery once stood there, before being destroyed by a bomb
during WW1. Later on, I heard that it was actually a greengrocer’s.
Too late, my heart was already conquered by this imaginary bakery.
This gap in the street would become an open tale where I could plant
my imagination.
I decided to overlap with this urban myth by recreating the bakery,
through gathering personal narratives and bread recipes from people
who have arrived in Folkestone from other countries.
Florence, Ilsa, Lucia, Renato and many others, described at length
how to make their bread, exactly like their gran’ma did! Through
these recipes, and their varied cultural ingredients, a beautiful social
cartography took shape before my eyes.
These stories reflect the present of a town where people from different
parts of the world have chosen to build their destinies. They each gave
me a traditional bread recipe with full descriptions of their hometown,
their childhood, their journey to Folkestone, and other memories.
This constituted for me an unexpected historiography of the town.
In my culture, bread is the symbol of sharing, and salt is the symbol
of hospitality. I wanted to add my little «grain of salt» to the holy
bread of Folkestone.
The empty space will be a resonant space of collective narratives,
even a century after the event, and the buddleias, usually nicknamed
the ‘bomb-site plant’ will be the metaphor of life resisting oblivion
and looking to the future.

RECIPES

NEPAL

Sel roti

The following traditional recipe is centuries old.
Here’s what you need to make (10–12 pieces):

INGREDIENTS

3 cups of white rice
1 medium very ripe banana, peeled and mashed
1 cup sugar, or to taste
¾ of a cup unsalted melted butter or clarified butter (ghee)
1 or 2 cups rice flour, as needed
4 to 5 cups of vegetable oil for deep-frying

P R E PA R AT I O N

Start by soaking the rice for at least 4 hours or overnight. Drain and
place in a blender or food processor with the banana, sugar, butter
and mix, adding up to one and a half cups of water to make a semi-
thick puree. You may have to do this in two batches.

Remove the batter and place in a mixing bowl and beat by hand
vigorously to make a fluffy semi-thick smooth batter. Cover and set
aside to rest for 20 to 30 minutes.

When the batter is well rested, mix it again by hand until all the
ingredients in the batter are fully mixed. The consistency should be
similar to thick pourable heavy cream. If the batter is too runny, add
1 to 2 tablespoons of rice flour and mix well. If it seems too thick,
gradually add 1 to 2 tablespoons of water and mix well.

Heat the oil in a skillet over a medium-high heat until it is hot. Test
the readiness by placing a small drop of batter into the hot oil. If it
bubbles and rises to the surface immediately, it is ready.

Pour about ¼ cup of batter into the oil slowly, making a large circle.
To pour, you can use your hand, a plastic cup or a pastry bag with a
medium-size opening. Stretch and move the batter using a spoon or
a thick wooden stick to create a round shape. As the Sel-Roti puffs
and rises, push it into the oil with the back of a spoon until it is light
golden brown. Flip and fry the second side until brown. Remove with
a slotted spoon and drain on paper towels. Repeat using the rest of
the batter.

Repeat with the rest of the batter.

TURKEY (KURDISH)

Nane Zeytuna

INGREDIENTS

350/400g plain bread flour
15g dried yeast
2 teaspoons sugar
1 teaspoon salt
75g chopped black or green olives
3 tablespoons olive oil
350ml warm water
50g polenta

P R E PA R AT I O N

In a large bowl, mix together the flour, yeast, sugar, salt, olives, olive
oil and warm water. Knead the mixture until smooth and elastic. Then
leave the dough aside to rise until it has doubled in size, about an hour.
After that knead well again and set aside for another 20–30 minutes
until well risen. Then round the dough, turn it upside down and wrap
it in the floured clean cloth to rise again.

While waiting for the dough to rise , place a tin of water in the
bottom of the oven. Place the polenta on a plate and cover all surface
of dough with it. Then lightly oil the baking tray and place the dough
gently in.

Start the oven temperature at 250C for the first 10/15 minutes then
reduce it to 180C, bake until the bread has turned a golden brown
colour.

The preparation and cooking takes about 2 hours.

INDIA

Chapatti

INGREDIENTS

2 cups of whole-wheat flour
2 tablespoons of oil or ghee
¾ to 1 cup of warm water
½ teaspoon of salt

P R E PA R AT I O N

Mix the flour and oil or ghee together well using your hands or a food
processor.

Stir the salt into the water and add the flour, a little at a time, until
you have a soft, kneadable ball. Remove to a floured work surface
and knead for 8–10 minutes, until smooth and elastic. If using a food
processor, add water until the mass comes together and continue
processing for 30 seconds more.

Move the dough to a lightly greased bowl, cover and rest for at least
30 minutes and up to 2 hours.

Return the dough to a floured work surface. Roll the dough into a
long log and cut it into 12 separate balls. Dust the dough balls with
a little flour and roll each one out into a very thin disc about 6 inches
in diameter.

Heat an ungreased, heavy skillet over a medium flame. Add a dough
disc and press down gently all over with a spatula or the back of a
spoon to help make the chapatti puff up. Bake until lightly browned,
flip and brown on the second side. Repeat with all the discs.

S L O VA K I A

PAGACH

INGREDIENTS

¾ cup scalded milk
1 teaspoon salt
4 tablespoon sugar
3 tablespoon shortening (any solid fat)
3 cups flour
1 egg, slightly beaten
1 cake yeast
¼ cup lukewarm water

FILLINGS

3 medium potatoes, mashed – Chopped chives – 1 egg, beaten.
Combine potatoes, chives, and egg (add ½ shredded cheddar cheese

and/or crumbled bacon if desired).
Pour milk over salt, sugar, and shortening. Cook to lukewarm. Add

the egg.
Add yeast which has been dissolved in water. Add about half the

flour. Beat well.
Add the remainder of flour. Beat well. Turn out onto floured board

and knead for about 5 minutes.
Place in a greased bowl and set it aside to rise until doubled in bulk.

Divide the dough into 2 portions.
Flatten out one piece to about 2-inch thickness. Place desired filling

in centre.
Draw up and pinch edges together to cover filling.
Roll out lightly and carefully into a pie shape, about 3-quarters of

an inch thick.
Follow the same method for the remaining half of the dough.
Place on greased baking sheet. Leave to rise about 1 hour.
Bake at 190C degrees about 20 to 30 minutes.
When done, brush both sides with browned butter.



FRANCE

Couronne de
pain blanc en épis

INGREDIENTS

600g of flour
10g of yeast
360ml of warm water
12g of salt

P R E PA R AT I O N

In a food processor or bowl, add the flour and the water, then mix
together. Add the yeast and salt and continue processing for 10 minutes
more until the mass comes together. Leave it to rise in a warm place
for about 2 hours.

Place the dough in a floured dish, make it into a ball. Make a hole
in the centre using your finger, and enlarge it to 3 cm.

Cover it with a cloth and let it rest for 15 minutes. Finally, form a
crown by making a larger hole with your two hands. Put down the
crown on a worktop and let rise for 45 minutes, covered by a cloth.

Preheat oven to 240C. Lightly flour the dough and make some
cuttings on the surface to form a crown with ears of wheat.

Bake it for 30 minutes.

GERMANY BAKING THE MISCHBROT

Mischbrot Place the batard on parchment paper, cover with a damp cloth,
and allow these to rise for 70 minutes. Preheat the oven to 230C for
INGREDIENTS 60 minutes. Slash the loaves with a very sharp knife or razor blade.
If you have a baking stone, slide the loaves on the parchment paper
For the rye sponge, you will need: onto the baking stone. If you do not have a baking stone, place the
2 cups rye flour parchment on a baking sheet.
1 cup water
2 tablespoons sourdough starter Bake the loaves with steam for 25 to 30 minutes. To do this, place
For the final dough, you will need: a pan with water on the bottom rack of the oven with the loaves.
2¾ cups bread flour Spray the sides of the oven with 10 sprays of water after three and
¾ cups water again after six minutes during baking. After baking for 10 minutes,
2 teaspoons salt turn the oven down to 200C. When the bread is ready to come out,
1 teaspoon instant yeast cool it on racks. To serve the bread as cocktail slices, slice very thinly.
2 teaspoons diastolic malt powder
1 tablespoon barley malt syrup or light molasses

TO PREPARE THE RYE SPONGE

To make your rye sponge, sift 2 cups of rye flour into a bowl. Add
1 cup of water and the sourdough starter, stir, cover with plastic wrap
(clingfilm), and allow the sponge to ferment for 16 hours.

Add the remaining ingredients and knead the dough for 7 to 10
minutes. The dough will become a bit sticky, so you can use water on
your hands to help you knead the dough. Form the dough into a ball,
and place it in a bowl. Cover with a cloth and allow the dough to rise
for 30 minutes.

TO FORM THE LOAVES OF GERMAN RYE BREAD

Divide the dough in half, and form the dough into batards, boules or
rolls. To form the dough into batards, divide the dough in half. Form
the first half into a ball. Pull the dough up from one side, and press it
into the middle. Pull the corners next to this side into the middle, and
press these in. Do the same to the other side. Pull this side in again
to the middle, pressing it into the dough. Pull the other side into the
middle and pinch the lines into a tight seal. Flip the batard over, and
you should have good surface tension on the loaf. Do the same to the
other half of the dough.

LAT VIA

MELNA MAIZE

INGREDIENTS

1 cup lukewarm water
2 tablespoons dark honey
2 teaspoons instant yeast
1½ cups pumpernickel dark rye meal
2 teaspoons salt
1 tablespoon caraway seeds
3 tablespoons melted butter
3 cups all-purpose flour

P R E PA R AT I O N

Pour the water into a mixing bowl and add 1 teaspoon of the honey.
Stir in the yeast and rye meal. Set aside in a warm place for about
20 minutes or until bubbly.

Add the remaining honey to the sponge mixture, along with the salt,
caraway seeds, butter and all-purpose flour until the dough begins
to pull away from the sides of the bowl. Cover and leave to stand for
5 minutes.

By hand or machine, knead the dough until smooth and elastic, for
about 10 minutes. The dough will be sticky and this is as it should be.

Shape the dough into a ball and place in a greased bowl, turning it
around to coat it, and cover the bowl with a cloth or greased plastic
wrap. Leave it to rise in a warm place for about 1½ hours or until
doubled in size.

When the dough has doubled in size, punch it down and divide it in
half. Shape each half into an oval and place it on a baking tray. Cover
with a cloth or greased plastic wrap and leave it to rise for about
30 minutes.

Preheat the oven to 190C and bake the bread for about 45 minutes,
or until the crust is dark brown. Remove it from the oven and transfer
it from the baking tray to a wire rack to cool completely before slicing.

BELGIUM

pain à la grecque

INGREDIENTS

1 tablespoon active dry yeast
¼ cup lukewarm water
¼ cup granulated sugar
1 cup milk
½ cup butter
½ teaspoon salt
2 eggs, slightly beaten
4–4½ cups flour
1 cup of small sugar cubes

P R E PA R AT I O N

Proof the yeast in the lukewarm water with 1 teaspoon of sugar.
Scald the milk, add the rest of the granulated sugar, the salt and the

stick of butter to melt in the hot milk. Leave it to stand until lukewarm.
Blend the yeast sponge mix with the milk butter and sugar-salt

mixture, stir in the 2 eggs and add the flour, by ½ cups, stirring until
you have a smooth dough.

Add the sugar cubes and turn onto a lightly floured work surface,
adding more flour if the dough seems sticky. Knead it for a couple of
minutes to get the sugar cubes well incorporated.

Place the dough in a large buttered bowl, cover with a cloth and leave
it to rise in a warm place until it has doubled in size, about 1 hour.

After the dough has doubled in bulk, knead it for a few minutes on
a floured work surface and divide it into 2 equal pieces. Butter two
round 8 inch cake tins and shape the dough into 2 round cakes to fit
into the tins.

Cover with a cloth and leave it to rise again in a warm place for
about 45 minutes.

Bake for about 30 minutes or until they are nicely browned on top.
If you can, serve them warm!

C R OAT I A

Bakin Kruh

INGREDIENTS

1 kg wholemeal flour
2 teaspoons yeast
1 tablespoon sugar
1 teaspoon salt
3 tablespoons olive oil
1 cup yogurt
125 g butter
warm water

P R E PA R AT I O N

In a small bowl, combine the yeast, sugar and 120ml warm water.
Stir with a fork, cover and set aside to become foamy.

In a large bowl, cut the cold butter into the flour and rub together
until a fine crumble results. Knead by hand and add the yeast mixture,
salt, yogurt and olive oil. Knead until the dough forms into a ball. Add
more warm water if too dry or more flour if too wet. Scrape down
the sides and cover the bowl with clingfilm and leave it to rise in a
warm place until it has doubled in size. This can take up to 2 hours.

Heat the oven to 180C.
When the dough has doubled, punch it down and turn it out onto
a lightly floured work surface. Punch down the dough and place it
in a long greased pan with high sides.
Bake for about 45 minutes. Remove from the oven and place on
a cooling rack.



SPECIAL THANKS TO

Pat Storey and to the members of the Folkestone Migrant
Support Group, to Florence, Ilsa, Lucia, Rojda, Suzanne,
Barbara and Steven, Renato and Rebecca, Diane Dever,
Emily Ghassempour, Liv Pennington, Terry Perk.

Commissioned by
Creative Foundation for Folkestone Triennial 2014
Text: Amina Menia
Illustration: Alex Foster
Design: Herman Lelie and Stefania Bonelli
Produced by: fandg.co.uk
Print run of 1000
With the support of Kamel Lazaar Foundation,
and Taymour Grahne Gallery
© 2014 the artist. All rights reserved.


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