49
Northern Taiwan Taroko National Yushan National PLAN YOUR TRIP Regions at a Glance
Park & the East Park & Western
Outdoor Activities Coast Taiwan
Hot Springs
Museums Landscapes Mountains
Cycling Culture
Hiking & Cycling Culture Wildlife
The north’s network of
trails crosses landscapes Gorges, the Coast & Hiking & Landscapes
that vary from tropical the Rift Valley The 3000m-plus spine
jungles to alpine meadows Much of the east has hardly of Taiwan runs through
above 3000m. The roads of- changed its face for mod- the west, with three
fer some first-class cycling, ern times. It’s still a land ranges competing for
with day and multiday op- of 1000m seaside cliffs, scenic supremacy. Yushan
tions along coastal routes, marble gorges, subtropical (3952m), the highest moun-
riverside paths and cross- forests and vast yellow rice tain in Taiwan, is just one
island highways. fields nestled between blue- of many worthy hiking
tinged mountain ranges. opportunities.
Hot Springs
With dozens of hot springs Cycling Temples &
dotting the north, there’s The scenery that makes Traditional Festivals
always a place for a dip the east a draw for nature As one of the first areas
somewhere close by. And lovers is best viewed at settled by Chinese immi-
with facilities ranging from cycling speeds. The premier grants, the west is home
five-star resorts to natural challenge is an 86km route to some of Taiwan’s oldest
pools deep in the moun- from sea level to 3275m temples. Exuberant yearly
tains, there’s something for through Taroko Gorge, but festivals such as the week-
every taste and style. most opt for all or part of long Matsu Pilgrimage
the 400km loop down the honour a pantheon of tradi-
Museums coastline and back through tional folk gods.
Once a centre for tradi- the Rift Valley.
tional cottage industries Bird- &
such as tea, pottery and Indigenous Butterfly-Watching
woodcarving, as well as Festivals & Art With its wealth of protected
gold and coal mining, the Hunting, fishing and reserves and national
north boasts a small yet coming-of-age festivals parks, the west is a haven
rich collection of museums dot the summer calendar. for endemic species such as
highlighting them all. Woodcarvers operate small the Mikado pheasant and
Master carver Juming and studios up and down the several hundred butterfly
his internationally ac- driftwood-rich coastline, species. Vast numbers of
claimed works have their while Dulan’s weekly bash purple milkweed butterflies
own outdoor park. at a former sugar factory is pass through each year.
keeping the music alive.
p120 p198
p166
50
PLAN YOUR TRIP Regions at a Glance Southern Taiwan Taiwan’s Islands
Culture Landscapes
Food Activities
Wildlife History
Temples & Beaches & Coastal
Traditional Festivals Scenery
Early immigrants to Penghu’s beaches are
Taiwan faced a hostile Taiwan’s finest, and the
environment. In the south, traditional villages are a
the legacy of the faith that nice backdrop. The volcanic
sustained them is evident origins of Lanyu, Green
in a wealth of old tem- Island and Penghu have left
ples and the spectacular stunning coastal forma-
boat-burning festival in tions. Kinmen’s landscape
Donggang. includes lakes, mudflats
and fine beaches.
Night Markets &
Traditional Snacks Windsurfing &
Tainan’s traditional snacks Snorkelling
are famous throughout As the windiest place in
Taiwan: slack season the northern hemisphere
noodles and coffin toast in late autumn, Penghu
are just a couple of quirky, attracts windsurfers from
mouth-watering highlights. all over the world. For snor-
Kaohsiung’s night markets kellers, the easily accessed
serve everything, but spe- coral reefs off Lanyu and
cialise in fresh-off-the-boat Green Island burst with
seafood. marine life and colour
year-round.
Bird- &
Butterfly-Watching History
The warm, sheltered valleys Former frontiers of the civil
of the south provide a safe war, Matsu and Kinmen
winter haven for millions have a rich legacy of old
of butterflies. The lakes, military tunnels, memori-
forests and grasslands of als and museums. More
Kenting National Park sup- interesting to many are the
port hundreds of species of traditional villages, won-
birds year-round, making derfully preserved because
the region one of Taiwan’s of their frontier status.
top twitching venues.
p284
p237
©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
On the
Road
Taiwan's Taipei
Islands p52
p284 #_
Northern
Taiwan
p120
Yushan
National Park &
Western Taiwan Taroko
p198 National Park
& the East Coast
p166
Southern
Taiwan
p237
©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
_#
Taipei
% 02 / POP 2.7 MILLION
Includes Why Go?
Sights. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 54 For a 300-year-old city, Taipei has been having a very late
Activities . . . . . . . . . . . . 77 coming-of-age party. But then again, this unhurried but vi-
Festivals & Events . . . . 79 brant capital has taken a while to become comfortable in its
Sleeping. . . . . . . . . . . . . 80 own skin. With Chinese, Japanese and Western influences in
Eating. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 87 its food, culture, folk arts and architecture, Taipei has finally
Drinking & Nightlife. . . 92 decided that it’s a mix, and all the better for it.
Entertainment. . . . . . . .98
Shopping. . . . . . . . . . . . 99 As with the multifarious street food, the traveller is ad-
Information. . . . . . . . . 103 vised to go for the xiao chi (little snacks) in everything.
Taipei’s Suburbs. . . . . 107 Day trips are particularly delicious, and a quick MRT ride
takes you to tea fields, hot springs, river parks, and colo-
Best Places nial towns backed by a mountainous national park. With-
to Eat in Taipei don’t miss the Minnan-style temples beautified
with unique d ecorative arts, the heritage lanes turned art
¨¨Yongkang Beef villages, and gourmet cafe and boutique centres, the buzz-
Noodles (p89) ing neon neighbourhoods or the nightlife scene, growing in
¨¨RAW (p91) reputation yearly.
¨¨Thai Food (p88)
¨¨Addiction Aquatic When to Go Rainfall Inches/mm
Development (p91) 20/500
Taipei
Best Places
to Sleep °C/°F Temp
¨¨Attic (p80) 40/104
¨¨Jianshan Hotel (p84)
¨¨three little birds (p81) 30/86 16/400
¨¨Eslite Hotel (p87) 20/68 12/300
10/50 8/200
4/100
0/32 MAM J 0
JF J ASOND
Jan & Feb The Jun–Sep Fresh Oct–Dec The
weeks bracketing tropical fruits are perfect time to
the Lunar New readily available. visit, with the heat
Year are a great gone and the chill
time to visit. yet to begin.
TAMSUI 53
(DANSHUI)
Tamsui #¡ ùM2 R Cisingshan
Ta (1120m)
#÷
elung Riv Yangmingshan
BALI msui River National Park
#¡ Hongshulin Shamaoshan
Mù15 (643m) R
BEITOU Ta i pei H i g hli g hts
Guanyinshan Mù15 #¡ Zhuwei Fuxinggang #¡ Xinbeitou
R #¡
#¡ Zhongyi #¡Beitou
Guandu #¡ Guandu #¡ Qilian
Bridge #t Guandu
Temple Ke ùM2 #¡ Shipai
Mù2
#¡ Mingde
er #¡ Zhishan #1 National Palace
#¡ Shilin Museun
SHILIN
#¡ Luzhou NEIHU
#¡ Jiantan
Sun Yat-s en Fwy øL1 #8 National Revolutionary
Martyrs' Shrine
SONGSHAN
DATONG ZHONGSHAN Lø1
øL1 #2 Xiahai City Keelung River
#3 God Temple
Dihua Street
ùM3 2-28 Peace XINYI £#
Fong Da
#4 PMaermk oriaDlAC'iAvNil BlvTdaipei 101 Songshan
Coffee #5 #¡ Yongchun
Mù1 Jiangzicui #¡ £# ZHONGZHENG #6 #9 NANKANG
RElephant
er Xinpu#¡ Wanhua Water Moon #7
Tamsui Riv
Mù1 Banqiao Mù3 Xindian Riv WANHUA Tea House Tonghua Mountain
Night Market
úH£# Taipower #¡ #¡Gongg#¡uanLiuzha#¡ngLliinguan2g
106 Building
Mù1 øL3
Fuzhong #¡ 2
YINGGE erøLJ3ingaNnaD#¡ni#¡snh#¡gixjiiaMY#¡ooanrgkaeJntingmeiW##¡¡anlonCgomWmaXnuif#¡nnahintagy#¡i M#¡uzhM#¡aT2aAipOeKi ZOoNo G
#¡ Far Eastern
#¡ Hospital
Haishan
#¡ Tucheng Dapinglin #¡ øL3
#¡ Yongning
XiaobitaXn I#¡ND#¡IANQizhanWgENSHAN
ùM1 øL3
Mù3 #¡ Xindian
e#0 5 km Xindian #¡ City Office Mù9
0 2.5 miles Hemeishan R
Taipei Highlights 4 2-28 Peace Memorial 7 Water Moon Tea House
Park (p59) Pausing and (p95) Sipping local tea and
1 National Palace Museum contemplating history under learning how to steep leaves.
(p71) Enjoying an art legacy shady, old trees. 8 National Revolutionary
spanning millennia. 5 Fong Da Coffee (p93) Martyrs’ Shrine (p69) Seeing
2 Xiahai City God Savouring a rich slice of the pomp and pageantry at the
Temple (p69) Feeling the Taipei’s coffee culture. changing of the guards.
spirituality, and praying to the 6 Tonghua Night Market 9 Taipei 101 (p75) Touching
matchmaker god. (p100) Jostling with the locals the sky from the top of Asia’s
3 Dihua St (p67) Seeing the for mouthfuls of yum. tallest building.
unique architecture of Taipei’s
Japanese heritage.
54
History narrow streets and arcade walkways, while
south and west the roads are wide tree-lined
Before the 18th century, Taipei basin was boulevards.
home to Ketagalan indigenous tribes. In
1709, settlers from Fujian received permis- oHuashan 1914
sion from the Qing government to settle
and develop Manka (present-day Wanhua). Creative Park CULTURAL CENTRE
Manka and later Dadaocheng became trad- (華山1914; Huàshān Yījiǔyīsì; Map p60; www.
ing centres for tea and camphor, fuelling huashan1914.com; mZhongxiao Xinsheng) F
Ta i pei S iI gG hHtTsS economic development and further immi- Borrowing from Western urban regeneration
gration. In 1882 the city was walled (the last models, this early 20th-century wine factory
Qing-era city to be so) and in 1886 became has been restored into Taipei’s most retro-
the capital of the newly founded Taiwan chic venue. Remodelled warehouses now
province. hold live music performances, shops sell in-
novative Taiwanese-designed products, and
Under Japanese rule, the walls were torn a host of stylish restaurants, cafes and bars
down, and a major redesign of roads and will have you loving the ambience as much
avenues took place. Taipei became the ad- as the food. Don’t forget SPOT around the
ministrative headquarters for the colonial back, Taipei’s best independent cinema.
government, which developed railways, The factory opened in 1916 as a private
ports, city parks and public buildings such wine-making facility, and was finally shut-
as museums. tered in 1987. The area would likely be just
another block of overpriced city apartments
After the exit of Nationalist forces from today if not for arts groups, which discov-
China in 1949, Taipei was looked upon as ered, in 1997, that the old factory provided a
a temporary and utilitarian space: pub- perfect venue for performances, workshops
lic parks were built over and many other and installations (the warehouses are spa-
Japanese-era improvements in living qual- cious, have high ceilings and are flooded
ity reversed. With the remarkable growth with natural light).
of Taiwan’s economy, starting in the 1960s, In 2003, after years of pressure, the city
the capital attracted people from all over gave management of Huashan to the Council
and architectural anarchy played out in the for Cultural Affairs. After a multiyear resto-
drive to provide housing for the masses. The ration Huashan emerged as a popular gath-
repercussions of that era’s lack of planning ering spot for families and hipsters alike, a
played no small part in winning Taipei the source of urban pride, and a venue for both
reputation as the ‘Ugly Duckling’ of Asia. the promotion and dissemination of new
ideas about both art and urban living.
Since the late 1990s, however, the city The factory grounds are open 24/7, but
has made a remarkable transformation into hours for individual shops, restaurants and
one of the most liveable and vibrant cities performance venues vary. There’s an infor-
in Asia. Taipei is now cleaner, and greener, mation centre near the front as you face the
with more visible heritage than ever. Cur- grounds off Bade Rd.
rent mayor Ko Wen-je seems intent on nur-
turing a young and dynamic creative class, oLand Bank Exhibition Hall MUSEUM
and making the urban landscape more vis- (土銀分館; Tǔyín Fēnguǎn; Map p60; %02-2314
ually coherent and memorable. On top of 2699; www.ntm.gov.tw; 25 Xiangyang Rd; 襄陽路
that, visitors to this wonderful city will soon 25號; NT$30; h9.30am-5pm Tue-Sun; mNTU
have a few more modern architectural icons Hospital) Evolution is the theme at this mu-
to remember it by. seum, set in a 1930s former bank: evolution
of life, evolution of money and banking, and
1 Sights evolution of the bank from the Japanese co-
lonial era to modern Taipei. It’s an odd juxta-
1 Zhongzheng position but the displays at each level, from
soaring sauropod fossils to the open bank
Named after Chiang Kai-shek, this central vault, are well presented and rich in details.
district includes most of the government Tickets include admission to the National
offices in Taipei, as well as museums, parks, Taiwan Museum (p59).
historical sites and Taipei Main Station (for The original building opened in 1933 as
trains, High Speed Rail, MRT and buses). the Kangyo Bank and is a mix of Western
Zhongzheng (中正; Zhōngzhèng) covers and Japanese styles. The 1st-floor exhibit
the old Qing-era walled city, in addition to takes you into the old bank vault for a look
the areas planned under the Japanese. As
such you’ll find the Main Station area has
55
at money, lending facilities and bank ma- In 2007 the surrounding park was re- Ta i pei S i g hts
chinery. The fossil display area includes full named ‘Liberty Square’ in honour of Tai-
replicas of a tyrannosaur, a triceratops, a wan’s long road to democracy, and for a time
sauropod, and fossil elephants from Penghu it was conceivable that the memorial itself
that you can examine from toes to nose from would be renamed and the Chiang sculpture
the staircase that winds round the atrium. removed. That didn’t happen, and the rea-
sons (which will vary depending on who you
The Land Bank may be the only place in ask) pretty much summarise where modern
the world where you can put your feet up Taiwan is at, both politically and socially.
and have a cup of coffee while overlooking a
medley of dinosaur skeletons. oTreasure Hill VILLAGE
oChiang Kai-shek (寶藏巖; Bǎozàng Yán; mGongguan) F
Head down to the river from the Museum
Memorial Hall MONUMENT of Drinking Water (p58), turn left, and you’ll
(中正紀念堂; Zhōngzhèng Jìniàn Táng; Map p60;
%02-2343 1100; www.cksmh.gov.tw; 21 Zhongshan soon come across this charming art village
S Rd; 中山南路21號; h9am-6pm; mChiang founded in the late 1940s by soldiers who
Kai-shek Memorial Hall) F This grandiose fled to Taiwan with Chiang Kai-shek.
monument to authoritarian leader Chiang While praised for its ‘living memories’
Kai-shek is a popular attraction and rightly and off-the-grid community lifestyle (vil-
so. It is a sobering feeling standing in the lagers ‘borrowed’ electricity, set up organic
massive courtyard. Chiang’s blue-roofed farms by the river, built homes out of dis-
hall is a prime example of the neoclassical carded materials and recycled grey water),
style, favoured by CKS as a counterpoint to the village underwent a makeover in 2010
the Cultural Revolution’s destruction of real and is now largely an artist village.
classical culture in China. Still, it’s a photogenic place, and very
Entrance to the main hall is made via a dreamy to explore at night; architects, activ-
series of 89 steps (the age of Chiang when he ists and anarchists are likely to find it both
died). Inside the cavernous hall is an artefact fascinating and inspiring.
museum with Chiang’s two Cadillacs, vari-
ous documents and articles from daily life. National 2-28 Memorial Museum MUSEUM
The hourly changing of the honour guard is (二二國家紀念館; Èr’èr Guójiā Jì’niànguǎn; Map
probably the most popular sight with most p66; http://museum.228.org.tw; 54 Nanhai Rd;
visitors. 南海路54號; h10am-5pm Tue-Sun; mChiang
Kai-shek Memorial Hall) F This graceful
TAIPEI IN…
Two Days
Admire the art and devotional atmosphere at Bao’an, Longshan, and Xiahai Tem-
ples, shop for ceramics on Dihua St, and then lunch in Ximending. Enjoy a coffee at
Fortress Cafe before checking out other Japanese-era buildings and small museums
around 2-28 Peace Memorial Park. After pondering the meaning of Chiang Kai-
shek Memorial Hall, dine in retro-chic Huashan 1914 and end the day with some
late-night snacking at Raohe Street Night Market.
Start the next day with a coffee at Haaya’s Coffee, then take the MRT to Sun Yat-
sen Memorial Hall and ride a Youbike over to Taipei 101. Have lunch at Good Cho’s
then head to the National Palace Museum, one of the world’s best for Chinese art.
For dinner try dumplings or beef noodles on Yongkang St, followed by a stroll in Da’an
Park and a nightcap at Ounce Taipei or tea at Wistaria.
Four Days
Follow the itinerary above and then plan for a full day in historic Tamsui with its temples,
forts and colonial neighbourhoods. Begin with a stroll through the mangrove forests at
Hongshulin.
The next morning hike through Yangmingshan National Park, have lunch at
Grass Mountain Chateau and then catch a quick bus down to Beitou’s Taiwan Folk
Arts Museum. From here wander down past hot springs, temples and museums. Head
back to Taipei for snacking at Ningxia Night Market.
56
Greater Taipei B C Erziping D
A Visitor Centre
11 Hú101 ka Rd
æ# (1km)
BalaTamsui Rive
Keelung R1 Mù2 ian RiverDatunshan R
MmansugiroRvievserSee Tamsui (Danshui) Map (p108) D
Ta i pei S i g hts 12 #x Ta
9 â# #¡ Hongshulin 4 #ï
â#
Shamaoshan R
(643m) ›#
2 See Beitou Map (p113)
Guanyinshan ùM15 #¡ Zhuwei Fuxinggang ÿ#
#¡
R
#¡ Zhongyi #¡ Beitou
#¡ Guandu #¡ Qilian
Guandu Temple#t ùM2 #¡Shipai
1 #÷ 5
3 See Shilin Map (p76) 10
â#
iv er 2 â#
National
Palace
Luzhou ¡# Museum
#æ 7 Ø#
SanchonSg uLonoYpat-sen Fwy øL1 See Zhongshan & Datong
Map (p70)
4
øL1
Mù3 See Zhongzheng & Ximending Map (p60)
Chongcui
Bridge
5 ùM1 Jiangzicui #¡ Wanhua £#
r Xinpu #¡
Mù1
ùM1 Banqiao ùM3 See Southern Taipei City #¡
£##æ Map (p66)
6 #¡ 6 #¡
Fuzhong úH106 X in d Dingxi #¡
#¡ Far Eastern â#8 ¡#Yongan Wanlong
Hospital Market #¡
#¡ Haishan
Jingan #¡ #¡ R
Jingmei
#¡ Tucheng Lø3 #¡ Nanshijiao
ú# 18
#¡Yongning
Dapinglin #¡
úH114
7 Shimen Mù3 Qizhang
Reservoir Xiaobitan #¡ #¡
(20km)D
Xindian City Office #¡
Lø3 B 1X3inè#dian#¡
A Hemeishan R
CD
57
e#0 5 km
0 2.5 miles
E F G H
PACIFIC
OCEAN
Mù2 1
R 15 Ta i pei S i g hts
Cisingshan Ø# è# 14
(1120m) C
ï# 22 2
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â# 3
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North No 2 Fwy
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øL1
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International
KeelungAcademia
Airport Sinica Rd
See Eastern Taipei
City Map (p74) øL5
2231#þ#£##tSon3gshan Hú106
#¡Yongchun
Bijiashan
See Xinyi Map (p78) R 5
RErgeshan Pingxi Branch
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Lø#¡Liuzhangl#¡i hon
g 3 ü# 20
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Community
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Lø3 ¢# Lø5 7
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H
ùM9
EF
58
Ta i pei S i g hts Greater Taipei mNTU Hospital) F Surrounded by a high
grey concrete wall just to the south of NTU
æ Top Sights Hospital MRT station, Taipei Guesthouse is
1 Guandu Temple.....................................B3 a two-storey Renaissance building dating
2 National Palace Museum.....................D3 back to 1901. Throughout its life it has been
used mostly to host visiting dignitaries. The
æ Sights interior decorations are sumptuous and or-
3 Ciyou Temple ........................................E5 nate. Common folk can take a gander rough-
4 Grass Mountain Chateau.....................D2 ly once a month. Check the website (Chinese
5 Guandu Nature Park.............................C3 only) for open-day dates.
6 Lin Family Mansion & Garden .............B6
7 Luzhou Lee Residence House............ C4 National Taiwan Craft Research
8 Museum of World Religions ............... D6
9 Shihsanhang Museum of & Development Institute ARTS CENTRE
Archaeology .......................................A2 (Map p66; %02-2356 3880; www.ntcri.gov.tw; 41
10 Shung Ye Museum of Formosan Nanhai Rd; 南海路41號; h9.30am-5.30pm Tue-
Aborigines...........................................D3 Sun; mChiang Kai-shek Memorial Hall) F This
11 Tamsui Fisherman's Wharf ................. A1 striking red-and-white building, with its
12 Wazihwei Nature Reserve.................... A1 neoc lassical Chinese-style roof, dates back to
just 1956. It was recently converted into the
Ø Activities, Courses & Tours Craft Research & Development Centre where
13 Hemeishan.............................................D7 the first two floors showcase Taiwanese de-
14 Jinbaoli Trail ...........................................E1 signed and made gift products – everything
15 Lengshuikeng.........................................E1 from stationery to silverware – while the
16 Miramar Entertainment Park..............E4 top floors are reserved for art, architecture
and craft exhibitions and a rooftop organic
ÿ Sleeping food court. There are fantastic views from
17 Landis Resort Yangmingshan.............E2 the roof, where you can also get up close to
the fantastical glazed roof tiles.
ú Eating
18 Burmese Flavors.................................. D6 National Museum of History MUSEUM
19 RAW ........................................................E4 (國立歷史博物館; Guólì Lìshǐ Bówùguǎn; Map
p66; %02-2361 0270; www.nmh.gov.tw; 49 Nanhai
û Drinking & Nightlife Rd; 南海路49號; NT$30; h10am-6pm Tue-Sun;
20 Helen Coffee..........................................G7 mChiang Kai-shek Memorial Hall) Established
in 1955 with a collection from Henan prov-
þ Shopping ince, this is one of Taipei’s best museums of
National Palace Museum Chinese art. Exhibits are small and cover the
Shop ............................................ (see 2) range of dynasties, but most works are mas-
terpieces. Even the entrance corridor boasts
21 Wufenpu.................................................E5 exquisite Buddhist sculpture, including a
ï Information mesmerising nine-layer stone tower with
the thousand Buddhas motif. It hails from
22 Yangmingshan Visitor Centre.............E2 the 5th century AD.
ï Transport
Museum of Drinking Water MUSEUM
23 Songshan Train Station .......................E5 (自來水園區; Zìláishuǐ Yuán Qū; Map p66; %02-
24 Yangmingshan Bus Station.................E2 8369 5104; http://waterpark.water.taipei; 1 Siyuan
St; 思源街1號; adult/child Sep-Jun NT$50/25,
m emorial to the victims of the 2-28 Incident Jul & Aug NT$80/40; h9am-6pm Sep-Jun, to
was opened in 2011. Housed in a beauti- 8pm Jul & Aug; mGongguan) Located within
ful Japanese building dating back to 1931, a water park (open in summer only), this
the permanent exhibition charts the tragic museum covers the history of water treat-
events of February 1947 and also includes ment in Taipei and is set in a rather beau-
a permanent exhibition calling for the es- tiful former pump station built in baroque
tablishment of a Truth and Reconciliation style in 1908. It’s more interesting than it
Committee to find those guilty. There is sounds.
only occasional English-language signage,
but multilingual audio guides are available.
Taipei Guesthouse HISTORIC BUILDING Taipei City Hakka Cultural Park PARK
(客家文化主題公園; Kèjiā Wénhuà Zhǔtí
(臺北賓館; Táiběi Bīnguǎn; Map p60; www.mofa. Gōngyuán; Map p66; www.thcp.org.tw; h9am-
gov.tw/TGH; 1 Ketagalan Blvd; 凱達格蘭大道1號;
6pm Tue-Sun; mTaipower Building) F This
59
4-hectare park is dedicated to the Hakka as Taihoku (Taipei) Park under the Japa-
people. The park grounds are pretty and nese, then Taipei New Park under the Kuo-
made to mimic a Hakka village – there’s even mintang (KMT), its present name hails from
a rice paddy field. At the main entrance you 1996 in recognition of one of the pivotal
will find a four-storey cultural centre with a events in Taiwanese modern history, which
Hakka snack bar and cultural exhibits. Op- began here: the killings known as the 2-28
posite is the music and theatre centre, where Incident.
you can listen to Hakka music. The incident involved an uprising in Ta i pei S i g hts
The best time to visit is during a tradi- which Taiwanese protested against the post-
tional event, such as the Yimin Festival WWII Chinese government set in place by
(18th to 20th of the seventh lunar month). Chiang Kai-shek. Tens of thousands were
killed in the following months.
National Taiwan Museum MUSEUM In the centre of the park stands a memori-
(國立台灣博物館; Guólì Táiwān Bówùguǎn; Map
p60; %02-2382 2566; www.ntm.gov.tw; 2 Xiang- al to 2-28 and at the southern end of the park
yang Rd; 襄陽路2號; NT$30; h9.30am-5pm a museum dedicated to the event. Otherwise
Tue-Sun; mNTU Hospital) Established in 1908 this lovely little area of old trees, pond, pa-
as Taiwan’s first public museum; the present vilions, pathways, bandstands, shrines and
location in 2-28 Park hails from 1915. Unless historical relics is used just as its founders
there is a special exhibit happening (and intended: as a meeting place, a hangout and
they are frequent and often excellent), give a general refuge from the city. In the days be-
this place a miss as the permanent natural fore smartphone dating apps, this park also
history and prehistory displays aren’t par- used to be a cruising area for gay men.
ticularly interesting and have little accom- 2-28 Memorial Museum MUSEUM
panying English write-up. However do go
and visit the affiliated Land Bank Exhibition (二二八紀念館; Èrèrbā Jìniànguǎn; Map p60; 3 Ket-
Hall (p54) opposite; one ticket gets you ad- agalan Blvd; 凱達格蘭大道3號; weekdays NT$20,
mission to both. weekends free; h10am-5pm Tue-Sun; mNTU Hos-
pital) Located inside the 2-28 Peace Memorial
Park, the 2-28 Memorial Museum offers an ex-
Jinan Presbyterian Church HISTORIC BUILDING planation for the deaths that took place on the
(濟南基督長老教會; Jǐ’nán Jīdū Zhǎnglǎo Jiào- 28 February 1947 and the repercussions that
huì; Map p60; 3 Zhongshan S Rd; 中山南路3 followed. Acknowledgement of the 2-28 Inci-
號; hopen during services; mNTU Hospital) dent was a pivotal part of Taiwan’s transforma-
F This lovely red-brick church with its tion from dictatorship to democracy.
arched Gothic windows dates from 1916 and
is fronted by a row of palm trees. Inside is Though there is little in the way of English
dominated by white wood. The church is signage in the museum, a very good multi-
right next to the rather plain Legislative lingual walking tour device is available. In
Yuan building. addition to the 2-28 Incident itself, displays
cover the drive for self-rule in Taiwan in the
Presidential Office Building HISTORIC BUILDING 1920s and ’30s, and the role radio played in
(總統府, Zǒngtǒng Fǔ; Map p60; www.president. society at the time. The museum building it-
gov.tw; 122 Chongqing S Rd, Sec 1; 重慶南路一 self was once the Taiwan Radio Station, and
段122號; with passport free; h9-11.30am Mon- it was from here that KMT officials tried to
Fri; mNTU Hospital) F Built in 1919 as the calm the masses as panic swept the island.
seat of the Japanese Governor-General of
Taiwan, this striking building has housed National Taiwan
the offices of the Republic of China (ROC) University Hospital HISTORIC BUILDING
president since 1949. Its classical European- (國立台灣大學醫學院附設醫院; Guólì Táiwān
fusion style includes many Japanese cultural Dàxué Yīxué Yuàn Fùshè Yīyuàn; Map p60; 1 Changde
elements, such as a sunrise facing front, and St; 常德街1號; mNTU Hospital) The western
a shape in the form of the character 日, part wing of this hospital is a heritage site. This at-
of 日本 (Japan), as seen from the air. tractive Renaissance-style red-brick building
All visitors need to book online three days was built during the Japanese era at the end
before their visit. of the 19th century. It is used for outpatient
services today and is not open to tourists, but
2-28 Peace Memorial Park PARK it is easily admired from the road.
(二二八和平紀念公園; Èrèrbā Hépíng Gōngyuán;
Map p60; mNTU Hospital) F Established in Taipei Artist Village
VILLAGE
1908, this was the first urban public park in (臺北國際藝術村; Táiběi Guójì Yìshùcūn; TAV;
Taiwan built on European models. Known Map p60; www.artistvillage.org; 7 Beiping E Rd;
60
北平東路7號; h11am-9pm Tue-Sun; mShandao tea, but the stamps of the world collection,
Temple) F This yellow building that looks while a bit outdated, is pretty impressive; for
like a multistorey carpark is home to a small newer stamps check out the glass cabinets of
gallery, a garden, and a cafe. It runs an art- Taiwan’s special issues.
ist residency program and there’s usually an
exhibition or workshop and sometimes fun Botanical Gardens GARDENS
events such as food fairs. Check their web- (植物園; Zhíwùyuán; Map p66; 53 Nanhai Rd; 南
site before you go. 海路53號; h4am-10pm; mXiaonanmen) F
Ta i pei S i g hts An oasis in the city, this 8-hectare park has
well-stocked greenhouses, literature- and
Chunghwa Postal Museum MUSEUM Chinese-zodiac-themed gardens, a lotus
(郵政博物館; Yóuzhèng Bówùguǎn; Map p66;
45 Chongqing S Rd, Sec 2; 重慶南路二段45號; pond and myriad lanes where you can
NT$5; h9am-5pm Tue-Sun; mChiang Kai-shek lose yourself in quiet contemplation. The
Memorial Hall) Stamps, uniforms, machinery, gardens were established by the Japanese
history and so much more for a token ad- in 1921 and are part of a larger neighbour-
mission price. It won’t be everyone’s cup of hood that maintains an old Taipei feel.
Zhongzheng & Ximending CD
AB
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Within the park look for the Qing admin- an eight-branched intersection chock-full
istrative office, built in 1888, and a herb of young couples, fast food and shops sell-
arium from 1924. ing novelties, cosmetics and select designs.
There’s an entire street (Wuchang) devoted
1 Ximending & Wanhua to cinemas, and a lane devoted to tattooing
and nail art (Lane 50 Hanzhong).
Wanhua is where Taipei first started out as a
trading centre, growing rich selling tea, coal oZhongshan Hall HISTORIC BUILDING
and camphor. Over time the area lost its im- (中山堂; Zhōngshān Táng; Map p60; %02-2381 Ta i pei S i g hts
portance, and it is now mostly thought of as 3137; english.zsh.taipei.gov.tw; 98 Yanping S Rd;
an ageing community. This does, however, 延平南路98號; h9.30am-9pm; mXimen)Xinsheng Elevated Pass
give you access to history through temples F This handsome four-storey building,
and heritage buildings. constructed in 1936 for the coronation of
Emperor Hirohito, is where the Japanese
In Wanhua’s north is the Ximending surrender ceremony was held in October
(also known as Ximen) pedestrian district, 1945, and later where Chiang Kai-shek
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Taipei Zhongshan N Rd
Main Tianjin St Linsen N Rd
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62
d elivered public speeches from the terrace Qingshan Temple TAOIST TEMPLE
following his four ‘reelections’. The 3rd-floor (青山宮; Qīngshān Gōng; Map p60; 218 Guiyang
tearoom contains the masterwork Water St, Sec 2; 貴陽街二段218號; h5.30am-9pm;
Buffalo by Huang Tu-shui (1895–1930), the mLongshan) F Along with Longshan, this
first Taiwanese artist to study in Japan. elegant temple, first built in 1856, is one of
Wanhua’s top houses of worship. There is
Zhongshan Hall was one of the most an abundance of top-quality wood, stone
modern buildings in Taiwan at the time it and decorative artwork to see here and the
Ta i pei S i g hts was built, and it blends modernist and West- god’s birthday festival is one of Taipei
ern classical styling. Note the filings on the liveliest religious events. Called the Night
bricks (custom-made by a kiln in Beitou): Patrol (夜間出巡; Yèjiān Chūxún), this pa-
the design scatters direct sunlight, making rade takes place from 5pm to 9pm over two
the building difficult for enemy bombers to nights (the 20th and 21st days of the lunar
see (a concern as Japan had been skirmish- 10th month; around the end of November or
ing with China since 1931). early December).
Qingshan’s resident god (Qingshan Wang;
The hall is frequently used for perfor- 青山王) is credited with saving the people of
mances, and you can explore the inside at Wanhua from a deadly plague. During the
any time.
Zhongzheng & Ximending 34 Dongyi Paigu ............................................C2
Fuhang Soy Milk ............................(see 48)
æ Top Sights
1 Chiang Kai-shek Memorial Hall..............F5 35 Lao Shan Dong Homemade Noodles ...B2
2 Huashan 1914 Creative Park ................. G2 36 Modern Toilet Restaurant......................B2
3 Land Bank Exhibition Hall...................... D2
4 Zhongshan Hall ....................................... C3 Thai Food.........................................(see 15)
æ Sights û Drinking & Nightlife
5 2-28 Memorial Museum......................... D3 37 Chun Shui Tang .......................................E4
6 2-28 Peace Memorial Park.................... D3 Eighty-Eightea ................................(see 19)
7 Bopiliao .................................................... A4 38 Fong Da Coffee ........................................B3
8 Jinan Presbyterian Church.....................E3 39 Funky.........................................................G2
9 Longshan Temple ................................... A4 40 Goldfish..................................................... G1
41 Herb Alley .................................................A4
10 Museum of Contemporary Art 42 Lao Pai Gongyuan Hao ...........................D3
Taipei...................................................... E1 43 Mayor's Residence Art Salon.................G3
44 Rainbow Sauna........................................B3
11 National Taiwan Museum...................... D3 Red House Bar Street....................(see 15)
12 National Taiwan University Hospital.....E3
13 Presidential Office Building................... D3 ý Entertainment
14 Qingshan Temple.................................... A3 45 National Theatre & Concert Hall........... E5
15 Red House ............................................... C3 46 Revolver.................................................... E5
16 Taipei Artist Village..................................F2 47 Riverside Live House...............................B3
17 Taipei Guesthouse...................................E3 TAV Cafe..........................................(see 16)
18 Tianhou Temple ...................................... B3
19 Xibenyuan Temple Square.................... C3
ÿ Sleeping þ Shopping
20 AMBA........................................................ B2 48 Aboriginal Artworks ................................G2
21 Backpackers Hostel ............................... B2 Forbidden ........................................(see 15)
22 Bouti Capsule Inn.................................... D2 49 Guanghua Digital Plaza...........................H2
23 Cosmos Hotel...........................................E2 50 Little Garden Embroidered Shoes ........B2
24 Flip Flop Hostel......................................... E1 51 National Cultural and Creative Gift
25 Hotel Puri ................................................. B3 Centre ....................................................E3
26 Just Sleep Ximending ............................ C2
27 Star Hostel................................................D1 ï Information
28 Sunrise Business Hotel.......................... D2 52 Taipei City Hospital Chinese
29 Taipei Backpackers-City Hostel ........... C2 Medicine Clinic Centre.........................B2
53 Tourist Information..................................E1
ú Eating
30 Auntie Xie's.............................................. C3 ï Transport
31 Ay-Chung Flour Rice Noodle................. C3 54 Taipei Bus Station ....................................E1
32 Breeze Taipei Station.............................. E1 55 West Terminal A ......................................D2
33 Dai Sya Rinn Restaurant........................ B2 56 West Terminal B ...................................... D1
63
days of his birthday celebrations he sets out sometimes Dutch slaves), who occupied Tai- Ta i pei S i g hts
on a pilgrimage to expel evil from the neigh- wan in the 17th century.
bourhood. There are fireworks, gongs, lan-
terns and a colourful parade of people dressed The best times to visit Longshan are
up as gods, giant Infernal Generals, and other around 6am, 8am and 5pm, when crowds of
Taoist and folk figures. What makes this pil- worshippers gather and engage in hypnotic
grimage particularly dramatic and worth at- chanting. Or try Guanyin’s birthday on lunar
tending is that it takes place at night. 19 February, or the weeks before and during
Chinese New Year.
The temple is worth a visit any time to
examine the stonework in the main hall, Tianhou Temple TAOIST TEMPLE
the octagonal plafond ceilings (built with- (天后宮; Tiānhòu Gōng; Map p60; 51 Chengdu Rd;
out nails), the lively cochin pottery figures 成都路51; h6am-10pm; mXimen) F This
on either side of the worship hall, and the small, atmospheric temple appears from the
striking multicoloured jiǎnniàn (mosaic re- outside as a narrow, elaborate shopfront in
lief) work on the roof, which you can admire the Ximending area. But walk through the
up-close by climbing the stairs at the back gate and you’ll find one of Taipei’s most in-
of the temple. triguing temples, a place where Japanese
and Chinese worship patterns existed, and
still exist, side by side.
Longshan Temple BUDDHIST TEMPLE The original Tianhou Temple (devoted
(龍山寺; Lóngshān Sì; Map p60; www.lungshan.
org.tw; 211 Guangzhou St; 廣州街211號; h6am- to the goddess Matsu, also known as Tian-
10pm; mLongshan Temple) F Founded in hou, or the Empress of Heaven) was built in
1738 by Han immigrants from Fujian, this 1746, and demolished during the last years
temple has served as a municipal, guild and of Japanese rule to make way for a roadway.
self-defence centre, as well as a house of The current structure was erected in 1948
worship. These days it is one of the city’s top on the grounds of a former Japanese tem-
religious sites, and a prime venue for explor- ple devoted to Hongfa Dashi. As you face the
ing both Taiwan’s vibrant folk faith and its exit you can see a statue of Hongfa Dashi to
unique temple arts and architecture. the right, while on the left is a group of Jizō
Longshan is dedicated to the Bodhisattva (the Ksitigarbha Bodhisattva) statues. Even
of mercy, Guanyin, though in true Taiwan- today many local worshippers will pray to
ese style there are over 100 other gods and the Japanese deities as they make their way
goddesses worshipped in the rear and side round the temple.
halls. Matsu, goddess of the sea, is enshrined
in the back centre; Wenchang Dijun, the god Bopiliao AREA
(剝皮寮; Bō Pí Liáo; Map p60; h9am-9pm; mLong-
of literature, to the far right (come during shan Temple) F One of the best-preserved
exam period to see how important he is);
red-faced Guan Gong, the god of war and historic sections of Wanhua, Bopiliao covers
both Qing and early Japanese-era architec-
patron of police and gangsters, is enshrined ture. Some of the buildings house art galleries
to the far left; and in front of that is the Old
Man Under the Moon, known as the Match- (generally open from 9am to 6pm, Tuesday to
Sunday) showing experimental works most-
maker or the Chinese cupid. ly by young local artists. Bopiliao isn’t as at-
As with most temples in Taiwan, Long-
shan has been rebuilt multiple times after mospheric as Dihua St (p67) because there’s
no living history left, but it’s worth a look if
destruction by earthquakes, typhoons, and you’re in the area. It’s just up from the corner
even bombing in the last days of WWII.
The present structure (with elements from of Kangding and Guangzhou Sts.
During the Japanese era the narrow
the masterful 1920s and post-WWII recon- Qing-built street and shops became the back
structions) doesn’t have the same flow and
elegance as Bao’an Temple, but it is still an alley to new, wider Guangzhou St. As such
the eras neatly divide themselves with Japa-
impressive structure with sweeping swallow- nese buildings to the south and Qing to the
tail eaves, colourful jiǎnniàn figures on the
roof, and elaborate stone- and woodcarvings. north. The differing styles are easy to spot:
Qing-era buildings are commonly red brick,
Check out the two-of-a-kind bronze pil- and shopfronts are set back from arcades.
lars outside the front hall and the incense
holders outside the main hall. The handles Japanese buildings incorporate Western ba-
roque designs and facades are embellished
depict a common temple motif: The Fool with flowers and other common motifs. Bo-
Holding up the Sky. The Western-style ap-
pearance of the ‘fools’ is no coincidence. piliao was the setting for many scenes in the
Taiwanese gangster flick Monga.
They are said to represent the Dutch (or
Ta i pei S i g hts64
TAIPEI FOR CHILDREN
Taipei holds lots of delights for children. Night markets, in particular, are a favourite with
kids, offering endless fried stuff, sugary drinks, toys and games. There are parks with
ducks and turtles, and for older inquiring minds there are great interactive games in
many of the museums.
Fun with Water
¨¨Bird-shaped boats can be pedalled for a happy hour on serene Bitan lake (p118).
¨¨Kids can cool off at the splashtastic water park inside the Museum of Drinking Water
(p58).
Playing with Puppets
¨¨Enjoy puppet shows, workshops and behind-the scenes-secrets at the Taiyuan Asian
Puppet Theatre Museum (p99).
¨¨The Puppetry Art Centre of Taipei (p73) runs occasional DIY puppet-making classes
for children.
¨¨Taipei Children’s Art Festival (p79) holds summer shows for kids, including puppet
theatre.
Flying High
¨¨The Ferris Wheel at Miramar Entertainment Park (p77) is slow, but it’s pretty in neon in
the night-time.
¨¨The view from the 91st floor of Taipei 101 (p75) will wow kids with its cloud-level vista.
Entertainment
An experimental contemporary dance group, Cloud Gate Theatre (雲門舞集; Yúnmén
Wǔjí; www.cloudgate.org.tw; 36, Lane 6, Zhongzheng Rd, Sec 1; 中正路一段6巷36號; tickets
NT$600-1500; mTamsui) also plays host to international acts. To get here just walk past
Hobe Fort and follow the signs. The new swanky building houses a 450-seat theatre, and
a 1500-seat outdoor theatre, as well as two studios.
Red House CULTURAL CENTRE is the city’s gay bar district, and is home to
speciality sex shops and restaurants.
(西門紅樓; Xīmén Hónglóu; Map p60; %02-2311
9380; www.redhouse.org.tw; 10 Chengdu Rd; 成
都路10號; h11am-9.30pm Tue-Sun; mXimen) Xibenyuan Temple Square SQUARE
F Ximending’s most iconic building (西本願寺廣場; Xīběnyuànsì Guǎngchǎng; Map
p60; cnr Changsha St & Zhonghua Rd; mXimen)
was built in 1908 to serve as Taipei’s first F This odd square is the site of a former
public market. These days it’s a multifunc-
tional cultural centre with regular live per- Japanese temple, which was built at the end
of the 19th century for the Japanese military,
formances and exhibitions. There’s an artist and which offered medical and spiritual
and designer weekend market in the north
square (2pm to 9.30pm Saturday and Sun- care for wounded and dying soldiers. If you
come on a weekday (between 9am and noon
day), and 16 studios selling the works of or 1.30pm and 5pm) you can visit the Tai-
local designers (2pm to 9.30pm Tuesday to
Sunday) behind the main entrance. pei City Archives, the small building next to
the site of the temple; otherwise there’s not
In the Japanese era, the Red House came much to see here now apart from a small
to symbolise the bustling commercialism of
the Ximending District. Post-WWII it was an hillock with a wooden bell tower.
With the arrival of the KMT in 1949, the
opera house, a performance theatre, a mov- site was converted into living quarters for
ie theatre and, finally, a derelict building.
These days it’s once again the centrepiece Chinese soldiers. A fire in 1975 destroyed the
temple, leaving only the shell of the mauso-
of the district. Riverside Live House (p98) is leum and the Rinbansyo, now a lovely tea-
at the back of the complex. The south court
house (p93), where the head priest lived.
65
1 Da’an 1 Zhongshan & Datong
Da’an (大安; Dà’ān) is an important com- Datong (大同; Dàtóng; Dadaocheng) is one Ta i pei S i g hts
mercial and residential area (property pric- of the oldest areas of the city, and much of
es are among the highest in the city) with it feels like it’s seen better days. But there’s
several major universities. You’ll find some a new vibe to the Dihua St area, which still
of Taipei’s ritziest shopping areas here, and retains its Qing- and Japanese-era mansions
also leafy Da’an Park. and shops, and you don’t want to miss the
temples in this district (they are Taipei’s
oFormosa Vintage finest). Zhongshan (中山; Zhōngshān) was
once a centre for finance and internation-
Museum Cafe MUSEUM al business and today it is still loaded with
(秋惠文庫; Qiū Huì Wénkù; Map p66; %02-2351 hotels and near endless eateries (especially
5723; 3rd fl, 178, Xinyi Rd, Sec 2; 信義路二段178 Japanese). There are also numerous small
號3樓; h11am-7pm Tue-Sun; mDongmen) F but excellent museums and the always
Documenting Taiwan’s hybrid social and cul- changing Taipei Expo Park.
tural history is this delightful private collec-
tion of Lin Yu-fang, a former dentist turned
curator. Pieces range from Japanese-era oConfucius Temple
commercial posters to shell figurines, mu- CONFUCIAN TEMPLE
(孔廟, Kǒng Miào; Map p70; www.ct.taipei.gov.tw;
sical instruments, temple implements and 275 Dalong Rd; 大龍街275號; h8.30am-9pm
decorative carvings saved from the wrecking Tue-Sat, to 5pm Sun; c; mYuanshan) F Con-
ball. The oldest piece hails from the Dutch structed by the famous Fujian craftsman
occupation of Taiwan. It’s a special experi- Wang Yi-shun in the late 1920s, this temple
ence to enjoy a coffee or tea at one of the old is a beautiful example of Minnan (southern)
wooden tables. Entrance requires a drink style architecture and of Taiwan’s delightful
purchase (NT$120). local decorative arts. Throughout the temple
Mr Lin’s collection counts over 10,000 there are informative displays (in English)
pieces, only a portion of which are on dis- on the history of Confucius, the temple and
play at any time. You’ll still see a lot on any the Six Confucian Arts (such as archery and
visit, though, as almost every space in the riding), many of which are interactive and
cafe is utilised. Juxtapositions can be amus- fun for inquisitive children.
ingly jarring, such as when you turn from Also recommended are the free Confu-
examining a wooden torch used in Beiguan cius-themed shows in the 4D cinema. Nine
musical performances to playful statues of screenings (first one at 10am, last at 4pm)
the patron god of prostitutes or a propagan- are held throughout the day.
da leaflet that urges children to ‘eat moon When you walk through the first gate
cakes and kill communist bandits’. (Lingxing Gate) across from the pond,
head to the far back left and look up for a
Da’an Forest Park PARK delightful ceramic relief of a boy holding
(大安公園; Dàān Gōngyuán; Map p66; mDa’an
Park) F This is Taipei’s Central Park, a lantern: the lantern actually dangles out
from the panel! Other gorgeous panels of
where the city comes to play. And play it does, vases with blooming flowers are across the
from kids rollerblading to teens shooting
hoops and enjoying ultimate Frisbee to old courtyard on the Yi Gate. Inside the main
hall (Dacheng Hall) look for a magnificent
men engaged in xiàngqí (Chinese chess). The plafond ceiling.
park is a great place to hang out in or to stroll
around after a meal on nearby Yongkang St. Confucius’ birthday is celebrated on 28
September with a ceremony (starting at
It’s also a great location for a picnic. 6am) presided over by the mayor of Taipei.
Taipei Grand Mosque MOSQUE It’s a colourful event and free tickets are
handed out several days before the event. If
(台北清真寺; Táiběi Qīngzhēnsì; Map p66; 62 Xin- you miss out, you can line up at 5.30am on
sheng S Rd, Sec 2; 新生南路二段62號; mDa’an
Park) Built with money from the Saudi the morning of the day itself to see if you can
bag a spare ticket.
g overnment and other Middle Eastern coun-
tries back in the 1950s, this modest, tradi-
tional structure is set in its own gardens; oBao’an Temple TAOIST TEMPLE
(保安宮; Bǎoān Gōng; Map p70; www.baoan.org.
note the golden crescent moons topping the tw/english; 61 Hami St; 哈密街61號; h7am-
railings. Friday prayers attract a number of
food vendors outside. Since this is a place of 10pm; mYuanshan) F Recipient of a Un-
esco Asia-Pacific Heritage Award for both
worship, not a tourist sight, tourists are ad- its restoration and its revival of temple
vised to admire it from the outside.
66
Southern Taipei City 000000Ch000Ciang Kai-shek
A B D 信X義in路yi Rd ÿ#
Aiguo Rd Memorial Hall
Chiang Kai-shek ¡# 愛國東路 12
Memorial ú#
ZHONGZHENG Jinhua
Nanchang Rd
1 æ# National 2-28
Memorial
2 Museum Jinhua St Aiguo Elementary
Ta i pei S i g hts 7 â# â# 3 Rd 愛國東路 School
6 æ# 19 #ú
Nanâ#hai Rd CGhuolinnggSqting S Rd 重慶南路 Ningbo W Rd Roosevelt Rd Hangzhou S Rd
â# Jinshan S Rd 金山南路
Taipei Municipal
Jianguo Jinhua St
High School
2 HepSinagnWyuRadn和S平t 西路
羅斯福路 Chaozhou St
13
Ningbo W St ÿ# Foreign
Quanzhou St Language #
Heping W Rd Guting¡# School
和平西路 26 ü##ú
Nan2c2hang Rd National Taiwan
3 Tingzhou Rd Roosevelt Normal University
(Shida)
Lane 101
Tongan St14 ÿ#
Pucheng St
RdR 羅斯福
Jinjiang
d 路
11 #
#û 34 #ú
31 #ý
4 XindianSRhiuvieyruan Rd Shida Rd #û
Pedestrian/ ÷#
Bike Bridge 8
5 Chongqing S Rd Shuiyuan Rd
重慶 南路
#¡ Dingxi
6
ABCD
rites and festivities, the Bao’an Temple is The temple was founded in 1760 by im-
a must-visit when in Taipei. This exquisite migrants from Quanzhou, Fujian province,
structure is loaded with prime examples of and its modern size and design began to
the traditional decorative arts (p350), and take shape in 1805. The main resident god
the yearly folk arts festival is a showcase of is Baosheng Dadi (Saint Wu), a historical fig-
traditional performance arts. ure revered for his medical skills. The rear
67
e# 0 500 m were employed and top-quality materials
0 0.25 miles used. In addition, the temple began holding
E F an annual folk arts festival (called Baosheng
Formosa Vintage Xinsheng S Rd Lane 161 Cultural Festival) from March to June, which
includes the Five Day Completion Rituals
ÿ# Museum Dongmen Xinyi Rd ÿ#15 to Thank Gods (essentially to transform the
ú#Cafe1 â#¡# ú# 18 信義路 ¡# temple from an everyday to a sacred space),
Da'an 1 the gods’ birthday celebrations, lion dances,
24 17 Yongkang St Park parades, Taiwanese opera performances and
ú# Xinsheng S Rd even free Chinese medicine clinics. See the
temple’s website or the Taipei City Govern- Ta i pei S i g hts
YongkPaanrkgYoL3ü#na0gnkea3n1g, St Da'an ment’s website (www.taipei.gov.tw) for dates
Qingtian St Forest of events, all of which are free.
Lane 243 (Cafe Lane) Park
Lishui St 25 Jinhua St 新生南路
ü#
#÷ 4
DA'AN
Chaozhou St 2 oDihua Street HISTORIC SITE
# 10 (迪化街; Díhuà Jiē; Map p70; mZhongshan, Da-
9 ß# qiaotou) This former ‘Centre Street’ has long
been known for its Chinese medicine shops,
fabric market and lively Lunar New Year
sundry market. After a decade of restora-
Heping E Rd 和平東路 tion, the street has also become a magnet
23 33 for young entrepreneurs eager to breathe
#ú ü# 3 new life into the neighbourhood with cafes,
Shida Rd restaurants, art studios and antique shops.
Longquan StShida Díhuà Jiē was constructed in the 1850s af-
Night ter merchants on the losing side of an ethnic
Wenzhou StMarket
Lane 93 feud (over different groups’ ancestor origins –
Lane 105ÿ# 16 LaTaniesh6u2n,LSatngXuinahgeaiPRrIodngtrearmna(tIiConLaPl)C(h17in0emse) all too common in Taiwan’s history) in the
#ú 20 Wanhua area fled to Dadaocheng (now Da-
D#ý tong). The merchants prospered here (and
some might say got their revenge) as the
4 Wanhua port, further downstream, eventu-
#û 32
2L1a0ne ally silted up.
Lane 283¡# Taipower After Taiwan’s ports were opened fol-
Building Lane 86 National lowing the Second Opium War (1856–60),
Wenzhou St28 ü# Taiwan
Xinsheng S Rd 新生南路35University Western tea merchants flooded into the
û#
5
27
#þ 37#þ #þ 羅斯福路 area and built handsome mansions and
36 ü# Lane Roosevelt Rd trading stores. Later, during the Japanese
29 240 era, baroque and modernist architectural
and decorative touches were added to many
Tingzhou Rd shops, making Dihua Taipei’s most histori-
ú#2L1aneGL2o4ann¡#geg3u1a6n cally diverse street. The first house/shop
uan St on the street is at 156 Dihua St, Sec 1. Notice
S its low profile and narrow arcades. Further
â# ZhouRshdan up the street, near Minquan W Rd, are typ-
5 ical shops from the late 19th century with
arched windows and wide arcades. C loser
iy
6 to Yongle Market are the Western-style
m erchant houses and shops renovated dur-
Attic (300m); ing Japanese times.
D Treasure Hill On the 8th and 9th floors of Yongle
(300m)
EF Market is Dadaocheng Theatre (p99), a
popular venue for traditional performances.
shrine is dedicated to Shengnong, the god oMiniatures Museum of Taiwan MUSEUM
of agriculture.
(袖珍博物館; Xiùzhēn Bówùguǎn; Map p74;
From 1995 to 2002, the temple underwent %02-2515 0583; www.mmot.com.tw; 96 Jianguo
its largest renovation project ever. Under N Rd, Sec 1; 建國北路一段96號; adult/child
sound management (the board of directors NT$180/100; h10am-6pm Tue-Sun; mSong-
are all university professors), skilled artisans jiang Nanjing) Whimsical, wondrous and
68
Ta i pei S i g hts Southern Taipei City 18 Din Tai Fung ..............................................E1
19 Jinfeng Braised Meat Rice ..................... B1
æ Top Sights 20 KGB ...........................................................E4
1 Formosa Vintage Museum Cafe............ E1 21 Lan Jia....................................................... F5
22 Ooh Cha Cha ............................................C3
æ Sights 23 Shida Night Market ................................. E3
2 Botanical Gardens ................................... A1 24 Yongkang Beef Noodles..........................E1
3 Chunghwa Postal Museum.....................B1 û Drinking & Nightlife
4 Da'an Forest Park ....................................F2 25 Cafe Libero............................................... E2
5 Museum of Drinking Water.....................E6 26 Cafe Macho ..............................................C3
6 National Museum of History .................. A1 27 Cafe Odeon .............................................. F5
7 National Taiwan Craft Research & 28 Drop Coffee House.................................. F5
Development Institute .........................A1 29 H*ours Cafe ............................................. E5
8 Taipei City Hakka Cultural Park............ D4 30 Hui Liu ........................................................E1
9 Taipei Grand Mosque..............................F2 31 Ol' Farts.....................................................D4
32 Something Ales .......................................E4
Ø Activities, Courses & Tours 33 Wistaria Tea House................................. F3
10 Mandarin Training Centre ......................E2 ý Entertainment
11 Taipei Language Institute (TLI) ............ D4 34 Blue Note..................................................D4
þ Shopping
ÿ Sleeping 35 Cotton Field Organic Health
12 Banana Hostel..........................................D1
13 Chocolate Box Backpackers................. C2 Store....................................................... E5
14 Eight Elephants Hostel........................... C3 36 GinGin's..................................................... E5
15 Rido Waikoloa Hotel ................................ F1 37 Love Boat.................................................. E5
16 three little birds........................................E4
ú Eating
17 Chi Fan Shi Tang ...................................... E1
fantastically detailed are the creative works sculpture and installation art), as well as
at this delightful private museum located in good overviews of paper making around the
the basement of a nondescript tower block. world and in Taiwan. For a DIY experience,
On display are dozens of doll-house-sized join the daily paper-making classes at 10am,
replications of Western houses, castles, cha- 11am, 2pm and 3pm.
lets, palaces and villages, as well as scenes
from classic children’s stories such as Pinoc- International Pavilion of
chio and Alice in Wonderland. Indigenous Arts and Cultures ARTS CENTRE
(原民風味館; Yuánmín Fēngwèiguǎn; Map p70;
Give yourself plenty of time to enjoy this www.facebook.com/Taiwan.paf; 151 Zhongshan N
place for within each structure is a whole Rd, Sec 3;中山北路三段151號; h11am-7pm Tue-
world of tiny figures in costume, surround- Sun; p; mYuanshan) This two-storey loom-
ed by their respective daily furnishings. The ing structure showcases the artisanship of
peeks into the living rooms and backstreets Taiwan’s indigenous peoples – on display
of 19th-century London alone are worth ad- in anything from furniture to flutes, and
mission, as is the outstanding Japanese vil- bags to bangles. Exhibitions are run on a
lage, complete with blooming cherry blos- three-month cycle. Check their Facebook
soms. Curiously, the museum shop also sells page (Chinese only) to find dates of work-
miniature bottles of spirits. That’s the spirit! shops and music concerts, held twice every
month.
Su Ho Paper Museum MUSEUM
(樹火紀念紙博物館; Shùhuǒ Jìniàn Zhǐ Museum of
Bówùguǎn; Map p74; %02-2507 5539; www.suho-
paper.org.tw; 68 Chang’an E Rd, Sec 2; 長安東路 Contemporary Art Taipei ARTS CENTRE
二段68號; admission NT$100, with paper-making (台北當代藝術館; Táiběi Dāngdài Yìshùguǎn;
Map p60; %02-2552 3731; www.mocataipei.org.
session NT$180; h9.30am-4.30pm Mon-Sat; tw; 39 Chang’an W Rd; 長安西路39號; NT$50;
mSongjiang Nanjing) Fulfilling the lifelong
dream of Taiwanese paper-maker Chen Su h10am-6pm Tue-Sun; mZhongshan) Very
bright, very modern, and often fun and
Ho, this stylish four-storey museum dis- very experimental art is showcased here.
plays a working traditional paper mill and
temporary exhibits (with a focus on paper The long red-brick building dates back to
69
the 1920s. It started life as an elementary and 1787, near what is now Dunhua S Rd.
school and then became Taipei City Hall As was typical in those times, the house ex-
before its current incarnation as the city’s panded as the family grew in numbers and
modern art museum. Well worth a visit. wealth, reaching its present size in 1823. In
Bags must be checked in. the 1970s, the heyday of Taiwan’s ‘economic
miracle’, the home was set to be demolished
National Revolutionary for the great purpose of road widening.
Martyrs’ Shrine SHRINE Thankfully, public opinion saved the day Ta i pei S i g hts
and the house was painstakingly dismantled
(國民革命忠烈祠; Guómín Gémìng Zhōngliècí; and, in 1983, rebuilt on this field in Xin-
Map p70; 139 Beian Rd; 北安路139號; h9am- sheng Park.
5pm; mDazhi) F This large shrine marks
the memory of almost 400,000 soldiers who Today the historic house is notable for its
died for the ROC (mostly within China). The central courtyard, swallowtail roof and peri-
bulky complex, built in 1969, is typical of the od furniture.
northern ‘palace style’ architecture popu-
larised during Chiang Kai-shek’s reign. The Xiahai City God Temple
TAOIST TEMPLE
hourly changing of the guards is a popular (霞海城隍廟; Xiáhǎi Chénghuáng Miào; Hsiahai
attraction, especially with Japanese tourists. City God Temple; Map p70; www.tpecitygod.org; 61
It takes almost 20 minutes for the white- Dihua St, Sec 1; 迪化街一段61號; mZhongshan)
clad soldiers to march from the gate to their F This lively and well-loved temple on
posts in front of the memorial, giving plenty Dihua St (p67) was built in 1856 to house the
of time to get a good shot. City God statue that the losers in the Wan-
Walk (15 minutes) or grab a YouBike from hua feud took as they fled upstream. Little
Dazhi station, or else take a taxi either from changed since those days, the temple is a
Dazhi or Jiantan MRT stations. terrific spot to witness folk worship rituals
as well as admire some gorgeous pieces of
Fine Arts Museum MUSEUM traditional arts and crafts.
The temple management deserves kudos
(市立美術館; Shìlì Měishùguǎn; Map p70; www.
tfam.museum; 181 Zhongshan N Rd, Sec 3; 中山 for the clear English signs about the temple
北路三段181號; NT$50; h9.30am-5.30pm Tue- introducing the City God, the City God’s Wife
Fri & Sun, to 8.30pm Sat; p; mYuanshan) Con- and the Matchmaker (said to have brought
structed in the 1980s, this airy, four-storey together thousands of couples), as well as
box of marble, glass and concrete showcases some of the temple’s outstanding decora-
contemporary art, with a particular focus on tive pieces. Two of the most interesting are
Taiwanese artists. Exhibits include pieces clay sculptures in the main hall just before
by Taiwanese painters and sculptors from the altar that demonstrate the Chinese tal-
the Japanese period through to the present. ent for using homonyms in art. The sculp-
Check the website to see what’s currently ture on the left, for example, shows a man
showing. on an elephant holding a pike and chime.
Taipei Story House HISTORIC BUILDING Since the Chinese for pike is ji and chime
is qing, together these form the homonym
(台北故事館; Táiběi Gùshìguǎn; Map p70; www. jiqing meaning ‘auspicious’ (note that differ-
taipeistoryhouse.org.tw; 181-1 Zhongshan N Rd,Sec 3; ent characters would represent the different
中山北路三段181之1號; NT$50; h10am-5.30pm meanings, but the sounds are the same).
Tue-Sun; p; mYuanshan) This house was built
in 1914 by a tea trader said to have been in- The other sculpture shows a man riding
spired by a building he saw at the 1900 Paris a lion while holding a flag and ball. Flag is
Expo. Today it’s a space for Taipei nostal- qi and ball is qiu, which together sound like
gia and history, and past exhibitions (they qiqiu, or to ‘pray for’.
change every three months) have included
topics such as Chinese sweets, toys, match- On the City God’s Birthday (the 14th
boxes and comic books. The Taipei Story day of the fifth lunar month), dozens of
House is just behind the Fine Arts Museum. temples around Taipei send teams here
to entertain the City God. The procession
stretches over a kilometre and perfor-
Lin Antai Historic House HISTORIC BUILDING mances include lion dances, god dances
(林安泰古厝, Lín Āntài Gǔ Cuò; Map p70; english. and martial arts displays. Things get going
linantai.taipei; 5 Binjiang St; 濱江街5號; h9am- around 2pm to 3pm and all the festivities
5pm Tue-Sun; mYuanshan) F This Fujian- last five days. See Xiahai’s English website
style 30-room house, Taipei’s oldest residen- for more.
tial building, was first erected between 1783
70
Zhongshan & Datong e# 0 500 m
AB 0 0.25 miles
C D
Zhongs中h山an北N路Rd Xinsheng N Rd 新生北路 DJiantan
12 ÿ# Mountain 6 #æ
Sun Yat-sen Fwy 14 (130m)
Lø1 ÿ#
1 Dunhuang Rd Chongqing N Rd Chengde Rd, Lane 285 MiCnhzeungWdRed,RLadne承32德路 Keelung River 1
Dalong
Yanping N Rd Rd
Dihua St Bao'an TEaxippeoi ZBhriodnggeshanâ#7 Sun Yat-sen Fwy
HaSTmte1im#tple#uTCeo2mnfpulceius Park â# â#
Ta i pei S i g hts 45 SonBgjriiadngge w
Jiuquan St Jiuquan St w øL1
中山北路
2 Tamsui River River Dadaocheng Enlargement #¡ Yuanshan Jianguo N Rd 2
Rd 環河北路
Wharf 0 100 m Rd TAairptsei
Minsheng W Rd Park
Tamsui ,# 36 N XinPsahrkeng
Rd
N Minzu W RdXining N Rd 29 Zhongshan Minzu E Rd 民族東路
þ# Shuangcheng St
Huanhe N
ý#28 t# 8 Linsen N Rd D
Huanhe 林森北路 Addiction
CDhiahnugaji SSttreet 3 þ# 33 Dehui St Aquatic
æ#
ü# ý# 25 Development
3 24 Jilin Rd (300m)
Zhongshan 3
Elementary
ú#MinquDaaqniaWotRoud#¡ 民族西路 #¡ 民權東路 9
19 Minquan School #t
Chengde Rd 承德路 West Rd Minquan E Rd #¡
Ningxia StGuisui Stþ# Jinxi St 中山北路 17 ZHONGSHAN
Chongqing N Rdþ# 3031 #ý 27 #ú Jinzou St
錦州街
Dihua St ÿ# Jinxi St Zhongshan N Rd Linsen N Rd 林森北路 Xingtian
15 Xinsheng N Rd 新生北路 Temple
Xinsheng N Rd 新生北路
¡#
4 DATONG Shuanglian 3î#4 Minsheng E Rd Songjiang Rd 松江路 4
民生東路 þ#
See Enlargement 13 民生西路 #¡ ÿ# 16
ÿ# 21 ú# 32 10 #
Minsheng W Rd
Chongqing St Gongyuan Rd 11 ÿ#
Tai太yu原a路n Rd
22 Lanü#e 4263 Changchun Rd 35 í#
û#
Taipei ú# 長春路
Circle 18
Nanjing W Rd N南an京jin西g 路W Rd #ý Linsen
5 26 Park Songjiang- 5
Nanjing E Rd Nanjing
C hang'an W Rd C長ha安n西g'a路n W Rd ¡# Zhongshan Tianjin St 南京東路 ¡#
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C D
Xingtian Temple TAOIST TEMPLE 1 Shilin
(行天宮, Xíngtiān Gōng; Map p70; 109 Minquan E
Rd, Sec 2; 民權東路二段109號; h5am-11pm; North of the city centre, Shilin (士林區;
mXingtian Temple) F Though established Shìlín) is an affluent residential area sitting
in just 1967, Xingtian Temple is considered at the base of Yangmingshan National Park.
especially efficacious as temples go, and it It’s home to some of Taipei’s best-known
has emerged as one of the city’s top centres cultural attractions, including the National
of folk worship. While a progressive moral Palace Museum.
system is taught here, with a deemphasis on
the literal meaning of ritual, you’ll find all This district is popular with expatriates
manner of fortune telling, including a sub- since many international companies and
terranean ‘Street of Fortune Telling’ under schools are based in the Tianmu neigh-
Minquan E Rd. bourhood, just north of the Palace Mu-
seum. This is reflected in the upmarket
condominiums and prevalence of Western
71
Zhongshan & Datong 19 Qing Tian Xia ............................................A3 Ta i pei S i g hts
20 Shin Yeh....................................................B5
æ Top Sights 21 Shuanglian Vegetarian ...........................B4
1 Bao'an Temple ........................................ B2 û Drinking & Nightlife
2 Confucius Temple................................... B2 22 ANIKi Club ................................................B5
3 Dihua Street............................................. B3 23 Dance Cafe...............................................C5
æ Sights Le Zinc.............................................(see 29)
4 Fine Arts Museum................................... C2 24 Lugou Cafe ...............................................B3
International Pavilion of ý Entertainment
Indigenous Arts and Cultures .....(see 4) 25 Dadaocheng Theatre ..............................B3
5 Lin Antai Historic House ........................ D2 26 SPOT – Taipei Film House .....................C5
6 National Revolutionary Martyrs' 27 Taipei Eye .................................................C4
Shrine .....................................................D1 28 Taiyuan Asian Puppet Theatre
7 Taipei Story House ................................. C2
8 Xiahai City God Temple ......................... B3 Museum .................................................B3
9 Xingtian Temple...................................... D3 þ Shopping
Ø Activities, Courses & Tours 29 ArtYard67 .................................................B2
10 Edison Travel Service............................. D4 30 Lao Mian Cheng Lantern Shop..............A4
31 Lin Hua Tai Tea Company......................A4
ÿ Sleeping 32 Ten Shang's Tea Company....................D4
11 Ambassador Hotel.................................. C4 33 Yongle Market..........................................B3
12 Chientan Overseas Youth Activity ï Information
Centre.....................................................C1 34 Mackay Memorial Hospital ....................C4
13 CU Hotel................................................... B4 35 Thailand Trade & Economic
14 Grand Hotel ..............................................C1
15 Jianshan Hotel......................................... A4 Office......................................................D5
16 Yomi Hotel ............................................... C4 ï Transport
ú Eating 36 Giant Bicycles ..........................................A2
17 #21 Goose & Seafood............................. C4
18 Ningxia Night Market.............................. B5
restaurants and bars. At the southern end religious sculptures, and a great orien-
of Shilin is the ever-popular Shilin night tation gallery to give you an overview of
market. dynasties.
oNational Palace Museum MUSEUM Level 2 includes painting, calligraphy, a
history of Chinese ceramics with many ex-
(故宮博物院; Gùgōng Bówùyuàn; Map p56; %02- amples, and an interactive area with videos
2881 2021; www.npm.gov.tw/en; 221 Zhishan Rd, and a virtual tour of 20 famous paintings.
Sec 2; 至善路二段221號; NT$250; h8.30am-
6.30pm Sun-Thu, to 9pm Fri & Sat; p; gR30) Level 3 contains bronzes, weapons, ritual
Home to the world’s largest and arguably vessels, and Ming and Qing dynasty carv-
finest collection of Chinese art, this vast ings. There is also the stunning jade collec-
collection covers treasures in painting, cal- tion, covering weapons, teapots, jewellery,
ligraphy, statuary, bronzes, lacquerware, ritual objects and the jade cabbage.
ceramics, jade and religious objects. Some
of the most popular items, such as the fa- Level 4 contains the Sanxitang Tea-
mous jade cabbage, are always on display – house, which offers tea, dim sum and a good
although check first that it’s not on loan to vegetarian selection. There’s also an eating
the southern branch (p214) in Chiayi. Given area in the museum annex with the classy
the size of the museum’s collection, much is Silks Palace restaurant on the ground level,
on rotation, however. and the Taiwanese Food Court on B1.
The historical range at this museum is
truly outstanding. Even within a single cat- The museum offers free guided tours in
egory, such as ceramics, pieces range over English at 10am and 3pm (book online). If
multiple dynasties, and even back to Neo- you prefer to move about at your own pace,
lithic times. try an English headphone guide (NT$200).
Level 1 includes rare books, special ex-
hibits, Qing and Ming dynasty furniture, An annex at the front of the museum
(to the left as you head up the stairs) holds
regular special exhibitions, which cost
extra to attend.
72
To reach the museum from Shilin MRT finished by the end of 2016, and appears
station, head out exit 1 to Zhongzheng Rd likely to be worth visiting if only to experi-
(p106) and catch R30 (red 30), minibus 18 ence the suspended sphere-shaped section.
or 19, or bus 255, 304 or 815. It’s about 15
minutes to the museum. From Dazhi MRT Cixian Temple TAOIST TEMPLE
station take bus B13 (brown 13). (慈誠宮; Cíchéng Gōng; Map p76; 84 Da’nan Rd; 大
南路84號; h6am-10pm; mJiantan) Dedicated
oShilin Night Market to the worship of Matsu, this 1927 reconstruc-
Ta i pei S i g hts MARKET tion of the original 1864 design sits at ground
(士林夜市; Shìlín Yèshì; Map p76; www.shilin
-night-market.com; h4pm-2am; mJiantan) Tai- central for Shilin Night Market. It’s worth a
pei’s most famous night market is hugely visit (even if you aren’t already in the area
popular with travellers – and many lo- to snack) in order to examine the master-
cals – who come to enjoy the carnival of ful cochin ceramic panels above the arched
street-side snacking, shopping, games and doors in the main hall, as well as the exquisite
people-watching. stone- and woodcarvings throughout.
Taipei Performing Arts Centre ARTS CENTRE Shung Ye Museum of
(臺北藝術中心; Táiběi Yìshù Zhōngxīn; Map p76;
60 Jihe Rd, 基河路60號; mJiantan) This out- Formosan Aborigines MUSEUM
landish theatre complex designed by Dutch (順益台灣原住民博物館; Shùnyì Táiwān Yuán-
architectural firm OMA was still being built zhùmín Bówùguǎn; Map p56; %02-2841 2611;
at the time of writing. It is scheduled to be www.museum.org.tw; 282 Zhishan Rd, Sec 2; 至
善路二段282號; NT$150; h9am-5pm Tue-Sun;
THE NATIONAL PALACE MUSEUM: AN ART ODYSSEY
The National Palace Museum is one of the must-see sights on most visitors’ lists to Tai-
pei. The true story of how these treasures came to Taiwan is almost as fascinating as the
artefacts themselves.
Establishing the Collection
The National Palace Museum traces its origins back thousands of years. As early as the
Western Han Dynasty (206 BC–AD 9), emperors sent teams of servants to all corners
of the empire to confiscate all manner of paintings, sculpture, calligraphy, bronzes and
anything else of value. Many of these items eventually found a home in the Forbidden
City in Beijing (established in the 1400s), a place that truly lived up to its name; un
authorised visitors could be executed. The viewing public at the time was, shall we say,
rather limited.
The Chinese revolution of 1911 forever changed the fate of this collection, though it
was not until 1925, a year after Emperor Puyi finally left the Forbidden City, that ordinary
Chinese citizens could see the art for themselves.
With the Japanese invasion of Manchuria in 1931 foreshadowing greater trouble, the
museum’s contents were moved for safekeeping. The priceless treasures spent the war
years shuttling across Chinese Nationalist Party (KMT) strongholds in southern China.
Despite China suffering heavy bombing attacks and fierce battles for nearly a decade,
virtually the entire collection survived and a public exhibition was held in Nanjing in 1947.
The Move to Taiwan
In 1949, near the end of the civil war between the KMT and the Chinese Communist Party
(CCP), the collection was moved to the Taiwanese port of Keelung. When it became clear
that a retaking of the mainland was not imminent, plans were made for a new venue to
showcase the art. In 1965 the National Palace Museum in Shilin was officially opened.
For decades the collection remained a bone of contention between the CCP and the
KMT, with Chinese leaders accusing the Nationalists of stealing the country’s treasures
(as they had the gold reserve). These days, however, with Chinese tourists making up
the bulk of daily visitors to the museum, such talk seems passé. More current is the
challenge from the Taiwanese side: you can have your treasures back in exchange for
recognising our independence.
Chances are the very colourful history of this superb collection is still far from told.
73
mShilin) There are currently 14 recognised QUIET TIMES AT THE Ta i pei S i g hts
indigenous tribes in Taiwan, and the exhib- NATIONAL PALACE MUSEUM
its at this private museum cover the belief
systems, festivals, geographic divisions, agri- Let’s face it, touring a world-class mu
culture and art of them all. Fine examples of seum is not enjoyable if you literally
tribal handicrafts can be seen on each level, have to battle the masses to see any
and videos relate the tribes’ histories and thing worthwhile. And since Taiwan
other aspects of tribal life. opened to Chinese tourism in 2008, the
National Palace Museum has become
The museum is across the road and up a unbearable at times. Fortunately, if you
short distance from the entrance to the Na- can schedule your visit for Friday or Sat-
tional Palace Museum (p71); a joint ticket is urday evening after 6pm (tour groups
NT$320. leave then for dinner and do not return),
you will find the museum the vessel of
Taipei Astronomical Museum MUSEUM quietude and fine art it once was.
(天文科學教育館; Tiānwén Kēxué Jiàoyùguǎn;
Map p76; www.tam.gov.tw; 363 Jihe Rd; 基河
路363號; adult/child NT$40/20, IMAX theatre
NT$100/50; h9am-5pm Tue-Fri & Sun, 9am-8pm
Sat; p; mShilin) This children’s museum tastes, of the Chiangs. The free audio guide
houses four floors of constellations, ancient is more than a little obsequious about the
astronomy, space science and technology, house’s master and mistress.
telescopes and observatories. Though a
good place to while away an hour, there is
a dearth of English-language content. More 1 Songshan
English-friendly attractions (at an extra
charge) are the IMAX and 3D theatres. The Songshan (松山; Sōngshān) is a small rec-
‘Cosmic Adventure’, an amusement-park tangular district in the middle of Taipei city
ride through ‘outer space’, was closed for re- whose northerneastern curve is bounded by
furbishment at the time of updating. the Keelung River, and Songshan Airport
and train station.
National Taiwan
Songshan also hides a local secret – the
Science Education Centre MUSEUM area just south of the airport is the genteel
(國立台灣科學教育中心; Guólì Táiwān Kēxué Minsheng Community, a grid of tree-lined
Jiàoyù Zhōngxīn; Map p76; http://en.ntsec.gov. peaceful avenues of low-rise buildings dot-
tw; 189 Shihshang Rd; 士商路189號; adult/child ted with parkland, funky cafes and designer
NT$100/70; h9am-6pm Tue-Sun year-round, & shopping.
Mon school holidays; p; mShilin) Interactive
exhibits at this children’s museum cover The famous tourist sights in Songshan
the gamut of scientific knowledge, from are all around the train station, home to
anatomy (a walk-through digestive tract!) the heaving Raohe Street Night Market, the
to zoology (a cat-head-shaped helmet that clothing bargain bins of Wufenpu and the
ostentatious Ciyou Temple.
gives the wearer feline hearing powers) to Minsheng Community AREA
(民生社區; Mínshēng Shèqū; mSongshan Airport)
chemistry, life science and physics. There This is the place to watch Taiwan’s hipsters
are good English translations at every point.
The 3D theatre (turbo ride and regular), sky while enjoying a street-side coffee or brows-
ing upcycled designer wear. It’s a secret little
cycling and special exhibits are not covered oasis from the traffic-choked streets full of
by the general admission ticket.
shopping and towers.
Shilin Official Residence GARDENS
(士林官邸; Shìlín Guāndǐ; Map p76; 60 Fulin
Puppetry Art Centre of Taipei MUSEUM
(台北偶戲館; Táiběi Ǒuxìguǎn; Map p78; %02-
Rd; 福林路60號; gardens free, house NT$100; 2528 9553; www.pact.org.tw; 2nd fl, 99 Civic Blvd,
h9.30am-noon & 1.30-5pm Tue-Sun; mShilin)
For 26 years, this two-storey mansion and Sec 5;民大道五段99號2樓; h10am-5pm Tue-
Sun; c; mNanjing Sanmin) This small and fun
its elaborate Chinese- and Western-style museum (set aside about 40 minutes) show-
gardens were part of the official residence
of Chiang Kai-shek and his wife Soong cases a medley of magical string, hand and
shadow puppets, many with embroidered
Mei-ling. Today the entire estate is a lovely robes and fiery beards. The displays could
public park and even the house itself is
open, though it merely displays the rather do with a bit more English explanation but
interesting snippets abound. String puppets
humdrum domestic life, and middlebrow
74
Eastern Taipei City e# 0 500 m
A 0 0.25 miles
Ronxing B DMinCzu E Rd D
Gardens Jinzou St Minqua n
Minquan E Rd 民權東路 5 ÿ# –# 31
1
Jianguo N Rd Hejiang St #¡ Zhongshan E ¡# Songshan Fujin Tree 1
Xingtian Longjiang Rd Junior High Airport 353 (80m);
#¡Temple School
Rd 民權東路 Minsheng
Community
(260m)
Ta i pei S i g hts Guangfu N Rd
Songjiang Rd 松江路 ZHONGSHAN Fuxing N Rd 復興北路 Qingcheng St Dí#
Minsheng E Rd 民生東路 Dunhua N Rd 敦化北路 Minsheng E Rd 民生東路
Rokucyoumecafe
21 û#
2 Xingan St
Hejiang St 28 SONGSHAN (460m)
Liaoning St
光復北 路 2
Changchun Rd 長春路 #ú
7 Jiankang Rd
Songjiang- Nanjing í# 29
Nanjing Nanjing E Rd 南京東路 Fuxing #¡ 23 þ# ¡# Nanjing E Rd 南京東路
#¡
Miniatures 6Lÿ#anú#e 8D91unhua N Rd Taipei
Museum 1
Zhulun St Arena 3
3 of Taiwan â#
â# 2 Chang'an E Rd 長安東路 30 î# Chang'an E Rd 長安東路
Jianguo Rd Lon gjiang Rd
Fuxing N Rd 復興北路#û 18 ú# 11
20 Lane 101Bade Rdú# #ú 14
û# Dunhua N Rd 敦化北路10
Alley 223
4 Civic Blvd 市民大道 Civic Blvd 市民大道 4
Andong St Lane 160 17 ü# ¡#
DINGHAO 5
8 #ú
6
Zhongxiao E Rd #¡ #¡ Zhongxiao E Rd 忠孝東路
Zhongxiao Zhongxiao Alley 8 ú# 13
Dunhua
Jinan Rd Fuxing
5
25 16 þ# Lane 280
þ# Lanü#e 219
Rena2i4Anhe Rd
Renai Rd 仁愛路 Traffic
Circle Renai Rd 仁愛路
12
ú#
Fuxing S Rd 復興南路 Anhe Rd
Da'an Rd Lane 300,
Renai Rd
Dunhua S Rd 敦化南路
Da'an Park DA'AN #¡Da'an Xinyi
6 #¡Xinyi Rd Anhe
í# 信義路 Xinyi Rd #¡ 信義路
27 Wenchang St
Da'an Jianguo Rd #û 19 Anhe Rd Linjiang St 26
Forest Park Alley 50, Lane ÿ#þ#
39, Tonghua St 4 3
7 ÿ#
H和ep平in東g 路E Rd #û
A Leli Rd 隆路 15 7
22 ü# Bobwundaye D Keelung Rd 基
Technology (200m) D
C
Building #¡
B
75
Eastern Taipei City 16 Cha Cha Thé.............................................C5 Ta i pei S i g hts
17 Costumice Cafe.......................................D4
æ Top Sights 18 G*Star Club ..............................................B4
1 Miniatures Museum of Taiwan.............. A3 19 Ounce Taipei ............................................C7
20 Super 346 Livehouse..............................A4
æ Sights 21 Taboo ........................................................A2
2 Su Ho Paper Museum ............................ A3 22 Water Moon Tea House..........................B7
þ Shopping
ÿ Sleeping 23 Breeze Nanjing ........................................C3
3 Formosa 101 ............................................ D7 24 Eslite..........................................................C5
4 JV's Home................................................ D7 25 Jianguo Weekend Holiday Jade
5 Mandarin Oriental Taipei ........................C1
6 Simple Hotel............................................ B3 Market....................................................A5
26 Tonghua Night Market............................D7
ú Eating ï Information
7 Ankor Wat Snacks .................................. C2 27 American Institute in Taiwan.................A6
8 Herban Kitchen & Bar ............................ C4 28 French Institute .......................................C2
9 Kunming Islamic Restaurant................. C3 29 Interchange Association, Japan............C3
10 Lin Dong Sen Beef Noodles................... B4 Liaison Office of South Africa......(see 28)
11 Matsu Noodles ........................................ B4 30 Taiwan Adventist Hospital .....................C3
12 NOMURA.................................................. D5 ï Transport
13 Slack Season Noodles............................ D5 31 Songshan Airport .................................... D1
14 Yangzhou Guan Tangbao ...................... B4
û Drinking & Nightlife
15 Beer & Cheese Social House................. D7
for example, were originally used more than oTaipei 101 TOWER
1000 years ago in exorcisms. (台北101; Táiběi Yīlíngyī; Map p78; %02-8101
8800; www.taipei-101.com.tw; adult/child NT$500/
Ciyou Temple TAOIST TEMPLE 450; h9am-10pm, last ticket sale 9.15pm; p;
(慈祐宮; Cíyòu Gōng; Map p56; next to Exit X,
Songshan MRT; h6am-10pm; mSongshan) F mTaipei 101) Towering above the city like the
gigantic bamboo stalk it was designed to
This 18th-century triple-tiered temple is resemble, Taipei 101 is impossible to miss.
dedicated to Matsu, the black-faced Chinese
goddess of seafarers. It marks the start of the At 508m, it held the title of ‘world’s tallest
building’ for a number of years. Until 2011
Raohe Street Night Market (p92) and is one it held the title of the world’s tallest green
of Taipei’s busiest and most colourful tem-
ples. The rooftop jiǎnniàn is particularly building.
Ticket sales are on the 5th floor of the
vibrant. Taipei 101 Shopping Mall. The pressure-
1 Xinyi controlled lift up is quite a rush; at 1010m
per minute it takes a mere 40 seconds to get
Taipei’s financial and city-government dis- from ground level to the 89th-floor obser-
trict, this is the bright lights, big city part vation deck. Observation decks are on the
of town, with the tallest buildings (Taipei 88th and 89th floors, with an outdoor deck
101 of course!), the swankiest malls and the on the 91st floor opened on some occasions,
hottest nightclubs. And yet, nicely, it is also weather permitting. Don’t miss the massive
a casual place, a sporting place even, with gold-coloured iron wind damper that keeps
hiking trails to Elephant Mountain starting the tower stable through typhoons and
a stone’s throw from Taipei 101, and wide earthquakes.
pavements circulating through the area In the basement is a decent food court,
where cyclists pedal along on city YouBikes. and the first five floors are taken up by
one of Taipei’s swankiest malls. For views
You will notice between Sun Yat-sen of Taipei 101, climb Elephant Mountain
M emorial Hall and Taipei City Hall MRT sta- (p78) or head to WOOBAR (Map p78; www.
tions a giant rusting globe of a construction wtaipei.com; W Hotel, 10 Zhongxiao E Rd, Sec 5;
site – this is the Taipei Dome, delayed for 忠孝東路五段10号; h10am-2am; W; mTaipei
years, mired in a corruption scandal that the City Hall).
current Taipei mayor is unable to resolve.
76 e#0 500 m
0 0.25 miles
Shilin B C D
A
Zhishan #¡ 9 #ú #ú
8 Zhongshan N Rd
1 11 ü# 1
Fuhua Rd
Ta i pei S i g hts ShPuaarnkgxiBike Tra il ,#
,# Bike Trail ,#
Sh ua Bn gi kCekTrail 中山北路
Wenchang Rd 文昌街 Wenlin Rd
ihe Rd5 Meilun St
2 Shihshang Rd3 â#â# 12 Zhongzheng Rd 中正路 2
Fulin Rd
J #û 1
1
#ú›# 14
1
10 1
中正路 Shilin #¡ 4 æ# 1
13 þ# ROeSsfhifdiicleiinnacl e
3 Zhongzheng Rd SHILIN 3
Jihe Rd Da N#tan 中 山北路2
Chengde Rd
D adong Rd
Rd ZhongshanWNenRlidn Rd
Keelung River 承德路
Shilin 1
Night Market æ#
4 6 Da dong Rd 4
A R
æ#
Jiantan #¡ Jiantan
Mountain
ÿ# 7
BCD
Shilin ú Eating
8 Din Tai Fung ............................................. C1
æ Top Sights 9 MiaCucina................................................. B1
1 Shilin Night Market................................. C4 10 Vegetarian Kitchen..................................C2
æ Sights û Drinking & Nightlife
2 Cixian Temple.......................................... C3 11 Cafe Dogs & Cats .................................... B1
3 National Taiwan Science Education 12 Vagabond Cafe ........................................C2
Centre.................................................... A2
4 Shilin Official Residence ........................ C3 þ Shopping
5 Taipei Astronomical Museum............... A2 13 Eslite bookstore.......................................C3
6 Taipei Performing Arts Centre.............. C4
ï Transport
ÿ Sleeping 14 Buses to National Palace Museum.......C2
7 Tango Inn ................................................. C4
Songshan Culture co factory (or more accurately an industrial
village) from the 1930s, this lovely park is
& Creative Park CULTURE PARK part lush gardens, part frog-filled lake, part
(松山文創園區; Sōngshān Wénchuàng Yuán- industrial chic, part workshop and part de-
qū; Map p78; www.songshanculturalpark.org/en; sign studio. The place is dotted with pop-up
Guangfu S Rd; 光復南路; h9am-6pm; mSun Yat- creative shops, cafes and galleries.
sen Memorial Hall) F Set in a former tobac-
77
The long blue-painted corridors of the school offers immersion courses, both long-
factory have a wonderful, institutional term and short-term. It also offers thematic
throwback feel. While most of the cafes and courses including business, media and travel
galleries close before 6pm, the outdoor areas Chinese, and even Taiwanese classes.
of the park and the eslite spectrum shopping
centre (p102) are open until 10pm. 2 Da’an
Discovery Centre of Taipei MUSEUM Fairy Footprint HIKING Ta i pei A ctivities
(台北探索館; Táiběi Tànsuǒ Guǎn; Map p78;
www.discovery.taipei.gov.tw; 2-4 fl, Taipei City Hall; (仙跡岩; Xiānjīyán; Wenshan; mJingmei) Leave
Jingmei MRT from Exit 1 and you will find
h9am-5pm Tue-Sun; mTaipei City Hall) F a board with a map showing the location of
This is a great place to get your bearings
on the city and its history. Maps and mod- the trail entrance. It’s about a five-minute
walk behind the MRT. This hike takes you
els show Taipei’s evolution from a walled, up to a short wooded ridge that extends
gated city in 1882 to the bustling metropo-
lis it is today. There are also exhibits, many into Taipei from the surrounding hills.
There are excellent views of Taipei 101 from
interactive, on geography, topography, the top.
commerce, famous residents and natural
resources. Use the western entrance to
access the museum. Mandarin Training Centre LANGUAGE
(National Taiwan Normal University; Map p66;
%02-7734 5130; www.mtc.ntnu.edu.tw/mtcweb;
Sun Yat-sen Memorial Hall CULTURAL CENTRE 129 Heping East Rd, Sec 1; 和平東路一段129號;
(國父紀念館; Guófù Jìniànguǎn; Map p78; www. mGuting) This is one of the most popular
yatsen.gov.tw/en; h9am-6pm; mSun Yat-sen centres at which to learn Chinese.
M emorial Hall) F The hall and its sur-
rounding gardens occupy an entire city International Chinese
block. The latter are well used by picnick-
ers, kite flyers, breakdancers and the early Language Program (ICLP) LANGUAGE
morning taichi crowd, while the cavernous
interior serves as a cultural centre with reg- (National Taiwan University; %02-2362 6926; iclp.
ular exhibitions and performances. There’s ntu.edu.tw; 4th fl, 170 Xinhai Rd, Sec 2; 辛亥路二
a large, though sparsely informative, mu 段170號四樓; mGongguan) One of the top
seum on the life of Sun Yat-sen, the founder university choices for learning Chinese.
of modern China.The elaborate changing of
the guards, with their extremely shiny boots, 2 Zhongshan & Datong
takes place every hour.
Miramar Entertainment Park FERRIS WHEEL
Taipei World Trade Centre LANDMARK (美麗華百樂園; Měilìhuá Bǎilèyuán; Map p56;
(Map p78; www.twtc.com.tw; mTaipei 101) F www.miramar.com.tw; tickets Mon-Fri NT$150, Sat
This squat Lego-like building, in pink stone, & Sun NT$200; h11am-11pm Sun-Thu, to midnight
stands next to the much more impressive Fri & Sat; mJiannan Rd) Part mall, part amuse-
Taipei 101 and is the capital’s main venue ment park, all fun. This entertainment facil-
for international trade shows. It’s usual- ity boasts the world’s second-largest Ferris
ly bustling with people carrying boxes or wheel, located on the roof. There are pano-
c lipboards. ramic views and, of course, plenty of things
to eat in Miramar’s fine food court, plus a
2 Activities giant IMAX cinema screen.
Edison Travel Service TOURS
2 Zhongzheng (Map p70; %02-2563 4621; www.edison.com.
tw; 4th fl, 190 Songjiang Rd; 松江路190號4樓;
Alan’s Mountain Bike CYCLING h7am-11pm; mXingtian Temple) Edison Travel
(%02-2933 4319; www.alansmountainbike.com. Service offers three-hour city tours (adult/
tw; 38 Roosevelt Rd, Sec 5; 羅斯福路五段38號;
hnoon-9pm Mon-Sat; mGongguan) Hard tails child NT$1000/900) with an English-
speaking guide that take in the Martyrs’
and full suspension bikes for NT$1000 per day. Shrine, National Palace Museum, Chiang
Taipei Language Institute (TLI) LANGUAGE Kai-shek Memorial Hall, a temple visit and
(Map p66; %02-2367 8228; www.tli.com.tw; 4th some shopping.
fl, 50 Roosevelt Rd, Sec 3; 羅斯福路三段50號4 Other options include a Taipei-by-night
樓; mTaipower Building) This long-running, tour, and trips around Taipei to places such
well-regarded, private Chinese-language as Yangmingshan and the northeast coast.
78 e#0 500 m
0 0.25 miles
Xinyi B C D
A NK Hostel (570m);
â# 3 D
1 Sleepy Dragon Hostel (570m);
15 Raohe Street Night Market (1.2km)
#þ
Yongji Rd 1
Civic Blvd 市民大道
Ta i pei A ctivities Guangfu S Rd 光復南路Songshan 4 基隆路
Yixian RdCulture &æ#
Creative Park
Keelung Rd
Taipei Dome
(under
2 ú# 10 12 construction) Taipei 2
Zhongxiao E Rd ú# City Hall 3
Lane 280
¡# 忠孝東路4段 ¡# ›# ÿ# 8 Zhongxiao E Rd
æ# 5 20 11ú#
Sun Yat-Sen í# 16
Memorial Hall
w í# 17
w
í# 19 Songgao Rd 松高路
3 XINYI
Renai Rd 仁愛路 2 CityShifu Rd
â# Hall Songzhi Rd
w Songren Rd
w Songshou Rd 松壽路 ý# 13
14 þ# NEO19
44
光復南路
í# 18 6
æ#
基隆路 1
Zhuangjing Rd á#
Xinyi Rd 信義路 Taipei Xinyi Rd 信義路 Xiangshan
¡# 101
Guangfu S Rd Keelung Rd ¡#
Taipei 101/
DA'AN Wuxing World Trade Songzhi Rd Sungshan
5 Songqin St Center Nature
ú# 9 Reserve
75
St è#
D
Formosa 101 (125m)
AB C D
Edison also works with Tribe Asia (www. 2 Xinyi
tribe-asia.com) for custom tours to indige-
nous areas. Elephant Mountain HIKING
(象山; Xiàngshān; Map p78; mXiangshan) F
This mountain actually has its own MRT
2 Shilin station (Xiangshan, which means Elephant
Jiantan Mountain HIKING Mountain). Just exit and follow the signs
(劍潭山; Jiàntánshān; g203, 218, 220, 260, 267) for about five minutes to the trailhead. El-
The mountain rises behind the Grand Hotel
and has great views over the Keelung River ephant Mountain is the vantage point of
all the classic shots of Taipei 101, so expect
basin and city. To access the trailhead, cross a steep trail up. Weekends it gets crowded,
Zhongshan N Rd from Jiantan MRT and
take a short walk south. The main route especially around sunset. Don’t forget to
take water.
takes about two hours to finish.
79
Xinyi Frank ................................................(see 14) Ta i pei F estivals & E vents
WOOBAR .......................................... (see 8)
æ Top Sights Yue Yue ............................................. (see 4)
1 Taipei 101 ................................................. C4 ý Entertainment
13 Brown Sugar Live & Restaurant............D4
æ Sights þ Shopping
2 Discovery Centre of Taipei .................... C3 14 ATT4FUN..................................................C4
3 Puppetry Art Centre of Taipei................B1 15 Chuan-Der Buddhist Art......................... A1
4 Songshan Culture & Creative Park .......B1 eslite spectrum................................ (see 4)
5 Sun Yat-sen Memorial Hall.................... B3 ï Information
6 Taipei World Trade Centre .................... B4 16 Australia Office ........................................C2
British Trade & Cultural Office .....(see 16)
Ø Activities, Courses & Tours 17 Canadian Trade Office in Taipei............C3
7 Elephant Mountain ................................. D5 18 German Trade Office ..............................B4
Korean Mission in Taipei ...............(see 18)
ÿ Sleeping 19 Netherlands Trade & Investment
Eslite Hotel........................................(see 4)
Office......................................................C3
8 W Hotel..................................................... C2 New Zealand Commerce &
ú Eating
Industry Office .............................(see 17)
Chocoholic........................................(see 4) ï Transport
9 Good Cho's .............................................. B5
10 Ice Monster.............................................. A2 20 Taipei City Hall Bus Station ...................C2
11 Minder Vegetarian .................................. C2
12 Vege Creek .............................................. A2
û Drinking & Nightlife
Club Myst........................................ (see 14)
z Festivals & Events from the end of June through July. Venues
include SPOT Huashan (p54) and Zhong-
Taiwan International shan Hall (p61); tickets cost NT$200.
Festival of Arts PERFORMING ARTS
(台灣國際藝術節; Táiwān Guójì Yìshù Jié; http://
tifa.npac-ntch.org; National Theatre & Concert Hall; Taipei Children’s Art Festival ART
(臺北兒童藝術節; Táiběi Értóng Yìshù Jié; www.
mChiang Kai-shek Memorial Hall) Dance, thea- taipeicaf.org; c) Running from July through
tre, Shakespeare, music and mime; all per- August, this festival has films, interactive
formances are held at the National Theatre exhibits, storytelling, puppetry, live thea-
& Concert Hall (p98). This festival attracts tre and more from local and international
local, Asian and global acts. It’s usually a real troupes and performers. There are venues
mixture and runs from the end of February all over the city. Most performances are free,
to early April. Admission runs from NT$500 others cost around NT$300.
to NT$3000.
Taipei Arts Festival ART
(臺北藝術節; Táiběi Yìshù Jié; http://eng.taipeifes
Songkran Festival NEW YEAR tival.org.tw) Experimental theatre, dance and
(www.ntpc-po.com; c) Taipei has a large Bur-
mese and Thai community and their annual performance art by local and international
water festival to celebrate the New Year is a artists. Runs for a month sometime between
popular event for locals and visitors. The event August and October. Events are held in var-
happens in April in the suburb of Zhonghe. ious locations including Zhongshan Hall
(p61) and Taipei Artist Village (p59).
Urban Nomad Film Festival FILM
(http://urbannomad.tw) In May, this festival Dream Parade PARADE
(夢想嘉年華; Mèngxiǎng Jiāniánhuá; http://
highlights creativity and energy in docu- dreamcommunity.tw; c) This colourful event
mentary film-making. Screenings are at
various locations including SPOT Huashan is sponsored by the Dream Community, a
collective of artists and families in the Shijr
(p54); admission is NT$200. area of Taipei. Expect elaborate floats, stilt
Taipei Film Festival FILM walkers, fire breathers, puppeteers, danc-
(臺北電影節; Táiběi Diànyǐng Jié; http://eng.
taipeiff.org.tw) This influential festival show- ers, indigenous performers and lots of great
costumes and painted faces. It’s a one-day
cases over 200 local and international films Mardi Gras–type event in October.
Ta i pei S leepin g80
TWO GREAT TAIPEI RIDES
Road riding around Taipei is world class, and there are several routes that you can start
from the capital. There are also two within the city limits to whet your appetite.
Balaka Road
A classic ride into beautiful Yangmingshan National Park, the Balaka has many varia-
tions. A short version starts at Hongshulin MRT: on weekends you can take the MRT with
your bike, otherwise ride up along the river paths. From the MRT station, you quickly
head into the hills on Hwy 2 and eventually link with the gruelling 101甲, aka Balaka Road.
Later, when you connect with Hwy 2甲, you can either fly down to Taipei or head east to
Jinshan and the coast. This route is best done in the early morning and on weekdays.
Graveyard Ride
This well-known and very steep ride goes through a massive cemetery followed by a fast
descent to Taipei Zoo and the flat river paths. It starts on Chongde Rd near Liuzhangli
MRT and quickly ascends into the cemetery. The first section is the Muslim Cemetery,
with famous resident General Bai Chongxi, while further up is the White Terror Memorial
(dedicated to those who died during Martial Law). At the junction with Academia Sinica
Rd (Yanjiuyuan Rd) you can go left to Nangang (this is part of the round-Taipei bike route)
or right to Taipei Zoo.
Taiwan LGBT Pride Parade LGBT mGuting) Located in a quiet neighbourhood
(台灣同志遊行; Táiwān Tóngzhì Yóuxíng; www. of twisting alleys that lead unexpectedly to
twpride.org) F Asia’s largest and most vi- ornate temples and old houses, this clean
brant gay-pride parade happens every Octo- and serene hostel has a basement enter-
ber and has been running since 2003. In 2015 tainment spot with stereo, TV and public
some 80,000 people partied at the event. computers. The two mixed dorms have no
windows or private lamps but otherwise
oTaipei Golden Horse Film Festival FILM look comfy and well kept. Toilets and
showers are upstairs and there’s a commu-
(臺北金馬影展; Táiběi Jīnmǎ Yǐngzhǎn; www.gold nal kitchen with plenty of appliances.
enhorse.org.tw) Part of the Chinese-speaking
world’s biggest film awards event, this To get here take Guting MRT Exit 2 and
month-long film festival is held in Novem- walk a block down Roosevelt Rd to where
ber. See the website for venues; tickets cost it merges with Nanchang Rd. Turn right on
between NT$200 and NT$300. Lane 202, then right again on Jinjiang St.
Then turn left on Lane 48 and right on to
4 Sleeping Alley 4. The hostel is 50m up Alley 4.
4 Zhongzheng Attic LODGE $$
(閣樓; Gélóu; http://attic.artistvillage.org/en; Treas-
ure Hill; s from NT$1200, d NT$1600; mGongguan)
Bouti Capsule Inn HOSTEL $ This lovely village house in Treasure Hill has
(璞邸旅店; Púdǐ Lǚdiàn; Map p60; %02-2381
5566; www.bouti.com.tw; 7 Chongqing S Rd, Sec 1; massive picture windows and great views
重慶南路一段7號; dm NT$900; naW; mTai- of the river. To stay here you need to be a
pei Main Station) This hotel-style capsule hostel writer, journalist or some kind of artist, or
is a new funky addition to the forest of ho- be attending an art or cultural event in Tai-
tels in the area. Rates are a tad steeper than wan. There are a variety of rooms – single,
at other hostels but facilities are very clean, doubles, quadruples – all simply but beau-
very modern and generously sized. Pull- tifully decorated in wood, white and beige.
down blinds transform the bed into a pri- Breakfast is included.
vate space. Lockers are extra large and every
guest gets a towel and a pair of slippers. Sunrise Business Hotel BUSINESS HOTEL $$
(和昌商旅; Héchāng Shānglǚ; Map p60; %02-
Eight Elephants Hostel HOSTEL $ 2382 1066; sunrise-business-hotel.com.tw; 18
(八隻大象青年之家; Bāzhīdàxiàng Qīngniánzhī- Chongqing S Rd, Sec1; 重慶南路一段18號; r from
jiā; Map p66; %02-2368 0301; www.eehostel.com; NT$2900; naiW; mTaipei Main Station) True
1st fl, 6, Alley 4, Lane 48, Jinjiang St; 晉江街48巷4 to its name, the big plus at Sunrise is the
弄6號1樓; dm/s/tw NT$550/1130/1560; naW; fact that all rooms have nice big windows.
81
This is a friendly and roomy well-placed As you walk down Wuchang St (the mov-
hotel. Splash out on the Sunrise Suite for a ie theatre street) look for the stylish Eslite
four-poster bed. Weekday rates are about Mall. The lifts to AMBA are located down
NT$300 to NT$500 cheaper. It’s not flashy past the outdoor cafe to the side. There’s a
on the extras – breakfast is a McDonald’s 15% discount available for bookings made
voucher. 28 days or more in advance.
Cosmos Hotel HOTEL $$$ Hotel Puri HOTEL $$ Ta i pei S leepin g
(天成大飯店; Tiānchéng Dà Fàndiàn; Map p60; (璞麗商務旅館; Púlì Shāngwù Lǚguǎn; Map p60;
%02-2311 8901; www.cosmos-hotel.com.tw; 43 %02-2371 8616; www.hotel-puri.com.tw; 6, Lane
Zhongxiao W Rd, Sec 1; 忠孝西路一段43號; d/ 27, Chengdu Rd; 成都路27巷6號; r from NT$2280;
tw from NT$4000/4500; pnaiW; mTaipei naiW; mXimen) Puri sports a fresh,
Main Station) This four-star favourite offers trendy look that matches the youthful vibe
tight service, old-school atmosphere, a sky- of Ximending. Rooms are a tad boxlike, but
high gym behind a secret door, and some- good value for money considering the loca-
what mismatched decor in its generously tion (in the heart of Ximending), and service
sized rooms. If Cosmos were any closer to is warm and very helpful. You may want to
Taipei Main Station it would be inside. Look request a room with a window. Discounts of
for 30% weekday discounts. about 30% to 40% can often be found.
4 Ximending & Wanhua Just Sleep Ximending BOUTIQUE HOTEL $$$
(Map p60; %02-2370 9000; www.justsleep.com.
Backpackers Hostel HOSTEL $ tw; 41 Zhonghua Rd, Sec 1; 中華路一段41號;
(背包棧旅店; Bèibāozhàn Lǚdiàn; Map p60; r from NT$6500; aiW; mXimen) Just Sleep
%02-8978 3666; www.facebook.com/hostelback features 149 stylish, technologically sophis-
packers; 13, Lane 25, Kangding Rd; 康定路25巷 ticated and pampering rooms. Even the
13號; dm/tw from NT$650/1400; naW; mXi- pillow menu gives you four selections from
men) Just past the Sichuan eateries on Lane aromatherapy to hypoallergenic. It’s well lo-
25, this newly opened hostel is clean and cated near Zhongshan Hall and Ximen MRT
functional and has a kind of industrial chic. and the staff are particularly friendly and
The dorms are a bit cramped and have no helpful. Discounts of 40% available online.
windows, but everything’s new, it’s in a quiet
alley and the hip Ximending District is just 4 Da’an
a couple of streets away.
othree little birds HOSTEL $
(美好日子; Měihǎo Rìzi; Map p66; www.threelittle
Taipei Backpackers-City Hostel HOSTEL $ birdstpe.com; 10,Lane 62,Taishun St,泰順街62巷10
(Map p60; %0922-000 702; www.twhostel. 號; dm/d from NT$550/NT$1700; naW; mTaip-
com; 41 Hankou St, Sec 2; 漢口街二段41號; ower Building) This fabulous LGBT-run hostel
dm/capsule/s/d with shared bath from NT$530/ has singles, doubles and two dorm rooms.
780/800/1600; aiW; mXimen) Just on The owners, one gay guy and a lesbian cou-
the outside of the Ximending pedestrian ple (the three little birds) are super friendly
area, this neat little hostel has mixed and and happy to take guests out to LGBT venues.
female-only dorms, capsules and small pri- Comfortable, clean and cosy, with a kitchen
vate rooms. The check-in lobby on Hankou area, this place is a little tricky to find; look for
St looks a bit like a faux heritage gift shop. the small three-bird motif on the wall (there’s
Rooms are in buildings nearby. no signage) and then ring the bell.
AMBA BOUTIQUE HOTEL $$
(Map p60; %02-2375 5111; www.amba-hotels.com;
5th fl, 77 Wuchang St, Sec 3; 武昌街二段77號5號;
d & tw from NT$3500; aiW; mXimen) AMBA, ROOM WITH A VIEW?
run by the Ambassador Hotel (www.am
bassadorhotel.com.tw), is clearly aimed at Note that many hostel dorm rooms
young, savvy ‘lifestyle’ travellers. The inter and standard rooms in hotels (even
ior sports an industrial-chic design matched some expensive hotels!) may not have
with fun colours and posters, and there are a window. This makes the room stuffy
nods to organic living and environmental and you won’t know whether it’s day or
consciousness (the front lobby desk, for ex- night. When you book, remember to ask
ample, is made from recycled plastic bottles, for a room with a window. Even a room
and toiletries are all natural). without a view is better than a room
with no window at all.
82
Banana Hostel HOSTEL $
(Map p66; %02-2356 8115; www.facebook.com/
BananaHostel; 2nd fl, 7 Jinshan S Rd, Sec 2; 金山 22City Walk
南路二段7號2樓; dm/d from NT$450/1300; Through Qing- &
naiW; mDongmen) This clean and well Japanese-era
laid-out hostel is particularly friendly. Taipei
The location is enviable, quiet yet central,
close to Dongmen MRT, and there are free
Ta i pei S leepin g b ananas for all guests.
START LONGSHAN TEMPLE
Chocolate Box Backpackers HOSTEL $ END HUASHAN 1914 CREATIVE PARK
(Map p66; %0978-576 467; 12th fl, 49 Roosevelt LENGTH 5KM; FOUR HOURS
Rd, Sec 2; 羅斯福路二段49號12樓; dm/d from The tour begins at 1Longshan Temple
NT$700/1800; niW; mGuting) Slick new
hostel on the 12th floor of a building direct- (p63) in Wanhua, the oldest district of
ly outside Guting MRT exit 6. Nice colour Taipei. Restored numerous times over the
schemes in the dorms with two-tone curtain- centuries, Longshan remains the spiritual
and-sheet combinations. The hostel is well lit heart of this district, as it was when Fujian
with plenty of windows. This extra light goes immigrants first established it in 1738.
From Longshan head to 2Bopiliao
some way to compensating for the cramped (p63), a formerly thriving commercial area
dorms. Towels and breakfast included.
with excellent examples of both late-Qing
JV’s Home HOSTEL $ and Japanese-era shops. The red-brick
(Map p74; %0903-061 359; http://jvstaipei.net;
2nd fl, 57, Alley 50, Lane 39, Tonghua St, 通化街 arcades here are popular spots for
39巷50弄; dm/d from NT$400/1100; naW; photographs.
g1960, mXinye Anhe) A giant painted Totoro Returning to Longshan, head north,
(Japanese cartoon beastie) greets you as staying on the left to enjoy the row of
you climb the stairs. This old favourite shops selling Buddhist statuary. At Gui-
has dorms (mixed and female) and private yang St check out the exquisite Qing-era
rooms (including a single for NT$900). It stone pillars, hanging lanterns and ceramic
figures at 3Qingshan Temple (p62),
can be tricky to find – go round the side built in 1856.
from the tattoo parlour and ring the bell.
Check their website for a photographic Then head to 4Qingshui Temple,
founded in 1787. Note the fine Qing-era tem-
guide to getting there.
Wall paintings, Japanese prints and a ple design: single-storey halls and a sweep-
pink ukulele are simple touches that bright- ing swallowtail roof. Both the outer dragon
en the basic facilities. Things are a little pillars and dragon and tiger side carvings
cramped, but the location, tucked away in a hail from the 18th and early 19th centuries.
quiet lane a stone’s throw from the fun Tong- Cut up to Changsha St and follow it to
5the remains of the
hua Night Market (p100), makes this a great Xi Ben Yuan Tem-<counter-d>
ple, once the largest Japanese Buddhist
budget choice. monastery in Taiwan.
Stay seven days or longer and receive a
10% discount. Retrace your steps and head down Han-
zhong St, followed by Neijiang St. At No
25 turn right into the back of the 6Red
Rido Waikoloa Hotel BOUTIQUE HOTEL $$$
(麗都唯客樂飯店; Lìdōu Wéikèlè Fàndiàn; Map House (p64), an octagonal structure built
p66; %02-2706 5600; www.rido.com.tw; 11 Xinyi in 1908 as Taipei’s first public market. The
Rd, Sec 3; 信義路三段11號; r from NT$3500;
pnaiW; mDa’an Park) The Rido is a area you are now in is called Ximending, a
kooky little boutique hotel with very classy reference to the former west gate (ximen)
rooms elegantly furnished in modern, old of the old Qing-era city walls.
Shanghai or European styles. Rooms are Now cross the road (take note of how the
streets have widened) to 7Zhongshan
spacious, comfortable and have nice touches Hall (p61), built in 1936 at a time when
such as a separate bathtub and shower. The
glass lift glides past a curious giant painting. architectural tastes were changing from
Carpets are great to sink into and there’s a Western classical hybrids to more modern-
lot of polished brass and dark wood. ist designs. The hall is a mix of both.
Continue up Yanping S Rd to 8Taipei
With weekday discounts of 30% to 45%, Futai Street Mansion. The two-storey
the Rido is very good value for money.
former office, built in 1910 in a Western
83
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Linsen N Rd
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Xiyuan Rd Zhonghua Rd Linsen S Rd Rd
Yanping S Rd
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£# Chiang Kai-shek Hangzhou
Wanhua Memorial Hall
Botanical
Gardens
e#0 1 km
0 0.5 miles
style, is the only surviving building on Futai how wide the boulevards are in this area:
St from that era. Just up from here is the this is Taipei as the Japanese wanted it to be,
modelled on Paris of the 1890s.
9North Gate (the only remaining Qing-era
Head up to the fEast Gate and then
gate that has its original appearance) and the turn in to the old gNational Taiwan Uni-
aTaipei Beimen Post Office, built in 1930. versity Hospital, built in 1912. The next few
blocks along Zhongshan N Rd have a wealth
Head back down Bo’ai Rd and then along of beautiful Japanese-era buildings, including
Hengyang St, noting the Japanese-era shops
and the pleasant arcades (covered walkways, the hJinan Presbyterian Church, built in
a traditional Taiwanese design).
1916 and an unusual example of Gothic archi-
At 2-28 Park check out the bNational tecture in Taipei.
Taiwan Museum (p59). Built in 1915, it was Retrace your steps to Xuzhou Rd and stop
the first major public building constructed
in at the iMayor’s Residence Art Salon
under Japanese colonial rule. The cLand
(p93), one of the best-preserved wooden
Bank Exhibition Hall (p54) across the way Japanese houses in Taiwan. Then cut through
was the most architecturally advanced struc-
ture in Taiwan when completed in 1933, and the jCollege of Social Sciences National
yet it still incorporated traditional arcades
into the outer structure. Taiwan University. These buildings, com-
pleted in 1919, are a good example of how the
Next is the dPresidential Office Build- Japanese often blended Eastern and Western
elements: the buildings are largely classical
ing (p59), completed in 1919 and restored in style, with Grecian pillars and semicircular
in 1947. Originally the office of the Japanese arches, but have roofs in traditional Japanese
colonial governor, the building faces east to black tiles. The pond and gardens (both origi-
the rising sun, and the design (as seen from nals) are also Japanese in style.
the air) forms the character 日 (sun), part of
日本 (Riben, Japan). End your journey at kHuashan 1914
Now head to eTaipei Guest House, built Creative Park (p54), a restored wine factory
from the 1920s that now houses chic restau-
at the turn of the 19th century and widely rants, cafes, whisky bars, performance halls
considered the most beautiful baroque-style and excellent gift shops.
building from the Japanese era. Note again
84
WHERE TO STAY
Ta i pei S leepin g NEIGHBOURHOOD FOR AGAINST
Da’an Slightly pricey. Quite a few hotels
Shilin Leafy and upmarket. Lots of great res- aimed at business people.
Songshan taurants. Good range of accommodation. Not so many great food and drink op-
Ximending & Wanhua tions around. A bit far from downtown.
Close to National Palace Museum and A little way out from downtown.
Xinyi nature. Competitively priced.
Can be a bit noisy and dirty. Some
Zhongshan & Datong Chilled area, funky neighbourhood, parts have a slightly questionable
Zhongzheng great cafes. reputation.
Not much in the way of budget op-
Right in the heart of it. Some great tions. Can be over-priced.
bargains.
Busy and noisy. Some parts have a
Upmarket. Close to Taipei 101 and some slightly questionable reputation.
great bars and clubs. Some top-notch Can be noisy and a bit dirty if near
five-star options. Taipei Main Station.
Very central. Great eating options. Lots
of choice in range of accommodation.
Great range of well-priced accommoda-
tion. Near to some nice casual bars and
lots of restaurants.
4 Zhongshan & Datong storage are all paid extras. Breakfast is in-
cluded but some people find it’s not particu-
oFlip Flop Hostel larly filling. Reception advises booking at
HOSTEL $ least a month in advance.
(夾腳拖的家; Jiājiǎotuō de Jiā; Map p60; %02-
2558 3553; www.flipflophostel.com; 103 Huayin St;
華陰街103號; dm/s/d from NT$600/900/1400; CU Hotel HOSTEL $
(西悠飯店; Xiyōu Fàndiàn; Map p70; %02-2558
niW; mTaipei Main Station) Flip Flop is one of 5500; www.toongmao.com.tw; 198 Minsheng W
the best hostels in town, with a marmalade- Rd; 民生西路198號; dm/d NT$800/2750; aW;
painted reception and square wooden bar mShuanglian) This spiffy new midrange ho-
and lounge area. There are 11 comfortable tel sitting above the Shuanglian Market also
dorms and several private rooms. Formerly a has several four-bed dorm rooms. Double
dormitory for railway workers, the hostel has rooms are clean and funky, but make sure
a nice historical atmosphere, but there are no you ask for one with a window. It’s well lo-
lifts. If you’re staying in one of the 5th-floor cated, close to Ningxia Night Market and a
privates you’ll need some muscle! 10-minute walk to historic Dihua St.
Beds include a locker with a fold-up top The hotel offers taxi pickup from the air-
that can be used as a table. Flip Flop has one port for NT$1100.
single room for NT$900. Note that rates are
constant with no price hikes for weekends Jianshan Hotel BOUTIQUE HOTEL $$
(建山大旅社; Jiànshān Dàlǚshè; Map p70; %02-
or holidays. 2552 0680; http://jianshan1977.com; 182 Guisi St;
Star Hostel HOSTEL $ 歸綏街182號; dm/d from NT$480/1680; aW;
(Map p60; %02-2556 2015; www.starhostel.com. mDaqiaotou) This new little vintage hotel is
tw; 4th fl, 50 Huayin St; 華陰街50號4樓; dm/s/d beautifully decorated with prints of 1930s
from NT$580/1400/1980; naW; mTaipei Main Taiwan, old radio sets and telephonic equip-
Station) A slick new place offering hostel- ment. Staff are exceptionally cheery and
style facilities for half the price. No shoes helpful. There’s no lift or breakfast, but
allowed beyond the security sliding doors to at this price and with this much charm, it
the rooms and lounge area. Heavy on wood won’t matter.
panelling and white linen, the six- and eight-
bed dorms are pretty good value for money. Yomi Hotel HOTEL $$$
Star has a nice breakfast area, a Japanese (優美飯店; Yōuměi Fàndiàn; Map p70; %02-2525
deck and a cute little cocktail bar that opens 5678; www.yomihotel.com.tw; 28 Minsheng E Rd,
at 7pm. Star isn’t generous on freebies; pad- Sec 1; 民生東路一段28號; r from NT$4780;
locks for the lockers, towels and luggage pnaiW; mShuanglian) This popular and
85
friendly business hotel is just a few minutes’ Old China about as much as General Tso’s Ta i pei S leepin g
walk from the MRT on busy Minsheng Rd. chicken, but you will feel like an emperor
Rooms are spacious and neatly arranged. when you arrive in the lobby!
Deluxe rooms feature inset bathtubs and
saunas for just a few hundred NT$ more. The hotel was first established in 1952 as
Yomi is big on freebies: bicycle rental, video Chiang Kai-shek felt Taipei had no proper
on demand, laundry and a wi-fi gadget so hotels for hosting foreign dignitaries. The
you can get online anywhere in the capital. main building was completed in 1973 on the
grounds of the former Taipei Grand Shrine,
Daily discounts of between 40% and 50%. though it underwent major renovations after
a fire in 1995. Today there are three main sec-
4 Shilin tions, including the Golden Dragon and the
Chi Lin. Note that breakfast is not included.
Tango Inn BOUTIQUE HOTEL $$
(Map p76; %02-2885 6666; http://jh.tangoinn.
com.tw; 18 Jihe Rd; 基河路18號; r from NT$2600; 4 Songshan
oSleepy Dragon Hostel
naiW; mJiantan) This black-painted GUESTHOUSE $
building just outside Exit 2 of Jiantan MRT (杜萊根國際青年旅舍; Dùláigēn Guójì Qīngnián
has 50 rooms that are sleek little numbers in Lǚshě; %02-8787 0739; www.sleepydragonhostel.
plum purple and slate grey. They have some com; 7th fl, 399 Nanjing E Rd, Sec 5; 南京東路5
of the comfiest mattresses in the city. While 段399號7樓; dm incl breakfast from NT$650;
bedroom space is fairly squashed, bath- mNanjing Sanmin) Husband and wife team
rooms are massive and all rooms come with Shelley and Satoru lovingly crafted this
a window. Breakfast is not included. place of four 12-bed dorms (three mixed,
one female only) almost by hand. Bunk beds
Chientan Overseas have pull-out trays for laptops and curtains
for privacy. In the same building as NK Hos-
Youth Activity Centre HOTEL $$ tel, and close to the back entrance of Raohe
(劍潭海外青年活動中心; Jiàntán Hǎiwài Qīng- Street Night Market (p92).
nián Huódòng Zhōngxīn; Map p70; %02-2885
2151; http://chientan.cyh.org.tw; 16, Zhongshan N
Rd, Sec 4; 中山北路四段16號; tw from NT$2380;
niW; mJiantan) This green, expansive ac- NK Hostel GUESTHOUSE $
(%02-2769 0200; www.nkhostel.com; 5th fl, 399
tivity centre has simple, competitively priced Nanjing E Rd, Sec 5; 南京東路5段399號5樓; dm
private accommodation: the rooms for four from NT$680; naW; mNanjing Sanmin) This
to six people are perfect for families, and newly opened, very plush guesthouse has
the 10th-floor twins have beautiful views big, white, comfy dorm beds, and the shiny
over the city and mountains. During the shared bathroom facilities are spotless.
school holidays it’s very popular with school There’s a coffee lounge and laundry, and a
groups. Note that not all rooms have wi-fi. simple breakfast is included in the price.
For dorm rooms, be sure to book ahead. There are beds for about 100 guests spread
The location of the centre is stellar: Jian- over a number of floors.
tan Mountain (for hiking) is just across the
road, the riverside bike paths run past the Mandarin Oriental Taipei HOTEL $$$
(Map p74; %02-2715 6888; www.mandarinorien
back of the hostel, Shilin Night Market is tal.com/taipei; 158 Dunhua N Rd; 敦化北路158
five minutes away, buses leave from Jiantan
MRT to Yangmingshan, and the bus to the 號; r from NT$10,800; pnaiWs; mSong-
shan Airport) An opulent five-star experi-
National Palace Museum leaves from Shilin, ence on a sleepy boulevard near Songshan
one MRT station up.
Airport. Rooms are richly furnished in an
Eastern-m odern meld. Facilities include an
Grand Hotel HERITAGE HOTEL $$$ enormous spa, a 20m pool and a string of
(圓山大飯店; Yuánshān Dàfàndiàn; Map p70;
%02-2886 8888; www.grand-hotel.org; 1 Zhong- top-notch restaurants with tastes from Ital-
shan N Rd, Sec 4; 中山北路四段1號; r from ian and French to Cantonese.
NT$8200; pnaiWs#; mJiantan) This
landmark Taipei hotel is a pleasant if kitsch Simple Hotel DESIGN HOTEL $$$
(Map p74; %02-6613 1300; www.simplehotel.com.
place to stay, with excellent English ser- tw; 52, Lane 4, Dunhua N Rd; 敦化北路4巷52號;
vice, a range of top-notch restaurants, and
dreamy views over the Keelung River (the d from NT$5200; pnaiW; mNanjing Fux-
ing) Located on a quiet side street, this new
hotel rests on the side of Jiantan Mountain). hotel has a sleek wooden design and clever
Just don’t take the claims of traditional ar-
chitectural grandeur too seriously. This is mood lighting. Snag a south-facing room for
great views of Taipei 101 from your balcony.
Ta i pei S leepin g86
WORTHWHILE JOURNEYS TO THE WEST
In the western suburbs of Yonghe, Zhonghe and Banqiao are a stellar museum, a vibrant
community of immigrants from Thailand and Myanmar, and a handsome old mansion,
that together exemplify Taiwan’s cultural diversity and religious tolerance. Further up in
the northwestern district of Luzhou is a lovely courtyard house from the Qing dynasty. All
sites are linked to downtown Taipei by the MRT.
Though founded by a Buddhist order, the Museum of World Religions (世界宗
教博物館; Shìjiè Zōngjiào Bówùguǎn; Map p56; %02-8231 6118; www.mwr.org.tw; 7th fl, 236
Zhongshan Rd, Sec 1, Yonghe District, 永和區中山路一段236號7樓; NT$150; h10am-5pm Tue-
Sun; mYongan) aims not to promote Buddhism, but to build harmony by showing the
communality of all religions. Highlights include detailed scale models of the world’s great
religious holy sites such as Islam’s Dome of the Rock, Sikhism’s Golden Temple and
Christianity’s Chartres Cathedral; remarkably, the insides of these models can be viewed
via tiny cameras.
The museum also features riveting multimedia presentations, reflection-inducing
exhibits such as the Hall of Life’s Journey, a meditation room and a Kid’s Land. Sig-
nage in English is mostly good and there’s a recorded English audio tour available for
NT$50. The cafeteria (open from 11am to 8pm, Tuesday to Sunday) serves good vege-
tarian food.
To get to the museum, take Yongan Market MRT Exit B, turn right and go straight. Turn
left at Yongzhen Rd, walk to Zhongshan Rd, then turn left here and look for the museum
at the edge of a department store. Or go to Dingxi MRT station and take the Pacific De-
partment Store shuttle bus (from 11am it departs every 15 minutes).
Burmese Flavors (南國風味; Nánguó Fēngwèi; Map p56; Lane 1, 43 Zhongxiao Jie; 忠孝
街1巷43號; dishes NT$100-200; h10.30am-3pm & 5-9pm Wed-Mon; mNanshijiao) is one of
many fantastic Burmese restaurants on Huaxin St in the western suburb of Zhonghe.
This one is the first shop on an alley on the left about 400m down Huaxin St. Service is
super friendly, the space small and bustling. Try samosas (三角; sānjiǎo), fried chicken
on shredded cabbage (椒麻雞; jiāo má jī), curry (咖喱; gālí) or ginger salad (兩辦薑絲;
liǎng bàn jiāng sī).
Lin Family Mansion & Garden (林本源園邸; Lín Běnyuán Yuándǐ; Map p56; %ext 3,
02-2965 3061; en.linfamily.ntpc.gov.tw; 9 Ximen St, Banqiao District; 板橋區西門街9號; h9am-
5pm, closed 1st Mon each month; g307, 310) boasts wood and stone carvings, traditional
architectural motifs representing luck and fortune and a beautiful traditional garden. You
can visit the garden – which includes ponds, pavilions and numerous buildings – on your
own, but admission to the residence (三落大厝; Sān Luò Dà Cuò) is currently suspended
due to renovations.
In 1778 Lin Ying-yin migrated to Taiwan from Fujian province and his family amassed
a great fortune trading rice and salt. Eventually the family settled in what is now Banqiao
City and built this mansion and its expansive gardens in the mid-19th century. Today
both are the largest remaining examples from that period left in Taiwan. Beautiful carv-
ings and traditional motifs abound: in particular look out for the varied windows shaped
like butterflies, bats, coins, peaches and fans.
To get here take Fuzhong MRT Exit 3 and follow the English signs (about a 10-minute/
700m walk), or take a YouBike.
Luzhou Lee Residence House (蘆洲李宅蹟; Lúzhōu Lǐzháijī; Map p56; www.luchoulee.
org.tw; 19, Lane 243, Zhongzheng Rd, Luzhou District; 中正路243巷19, 蘆洲區號; NT$100;
h9am-5pm Tue-Sun; mLuzhou), a sprawling traditional red-brick sìhéyuàn (四合院;
four-sided courtyard), has miraculously survived demolition. Take the MRT to Luzhou
station, take Exit 1 and cross the street to Zhongzheng Rd. Follow this down half a kilo-
metre to Lane 224, which is marked by a wooden arch. The residence is just down the
alley.
87
Cheaper rooms are considerably smaller, but savoury slow-braised pork hamburger with
there’s lots of light and clean lines. Discounts pickled mustard and ground peanuts stuffed
of up to 40% are available online. inside a steamed bun. Yep, delicious, and
it’s starting to take the West by storm, with
4 Xinyi shops and trucks now offering it in London,
Berlin and across the US.
Formosa 101 HOSTEL $
(Map p74; %0955-780 359; www.hostelformosa. To get here take the MRT Exit 4 and turn
com; 9th fl, 115 Keelung Rd, Sec 2; 基隆路二段115 left at the second lane (Lane 316). Ta i pei E atin g
號9樓; dm/s/d from NT$520/1000/1200; naW; Fuhang Soy Milk BREAKFAST $
(阜杭豆漿; Fùháng Dòujiāng; Map p60; 2nd fl,
g1960, mTaipei 101) Ticks most of the boxes: Hushan Market, 108 Zhongxiao E Rd, Sec 1; 忠孝
clean, efficient, kitchen, laundry, lounge and
a good location (a 10-minute walk to Taipei 東路一段108號 華山市場; items NT$25-50;
h5.30am-12.30pm Tue-Sun; mShandao Temple)
101). There’s a mixture of private rooms, A popular shop in the Huashan Market for a
some with a bathroom, and there are also
four eight-bed dorms: three mixed, one fe- traditional Taiwanese breakfast such as dòu-
jiāng (豆漿; soy milk), yóutiáo (油條; fried
male. The lack of windows in some rooms bread stick), dàn bǐng (蛋餅; spring onion–
could make this place a bit stuffy in summer,
but the linen is crisp and flowery. filled crepes and egg) and shāobǐng (燒
餅; stuffed layered flat bread). Be prepared
oEslite Hotel to wait – the queues of customers regular-
DESIGN HOTEL $$$
(誠品行旅; Chéngpǐn Xínglǚ; Map p78; %02-6626 ly snake down the stairs. Take Exit 5 from
2888; www.eslitehotel.com; 98 Yanchang Rd; 菸廠 Shandao Temple MRT station.
路98號; d from NT$16,000; pnaiW; mTai-
pei City Hall) Run by the very successful book Jinfeng Braised Meat Rice TAIWANESE $
(金峰魯肉飯; Jīnfēng Lǔròu Fàn; Map p66; 10
chain of the same name, Eslite Hotel has 104 Roosevelt Rd; 羅斯福路10號; dishes NT$30-60;
hush, plush rooms in white and olive green.
Rooms are very spacious and those facing h8am-1am; mChiang Kai-shek Memorial Hall)
This long-running place serves Taiwanese
the park also have good views of Taipei 101 comfort food quickly and cheaply, without
in the distance. Taipei’s most tasteful hotel.
There are no seasonal hikes in prices and fuss or atmosphere. Try the lǔròu fàn (魯
肉飯; rice and meat strips); kōng ròu fàn
the wonderful Lounge, on the ground floor, (焢肉飯; slow-braised pork belly and rice) or
is like a luxurious library. There’s a sunny
gym and some very fancy restaurants. Dis- fènglí kǔguā jī (鳳梨苦瓜雞; bitter melon
pineapple chicken).
counts of up to 50% online.
oW Hotel HOTEL $$$ oOoh Cha Cha VEGAN $$
(Map p66; %02-2367 7133; 207 Nanchang Rd,
(Map p78; %02-7703 8890; www.wtaipei.com; 10 Sec 2; 南昌路二段207號; dishes NT$240-280;
Zhongxiao E Rd, Sec 5; 忠孝西路五段10号; d
NT$20,000; pnaiWs; mTaipei City Hall) h10am-9pm Sun-Thu, to 8pm Fri & Sat; mGuting)
The place to go if you need an injection of
The W gets Taipei. It gets the naive, fun, healthiness and quite possibly the best West-
technology-intoxicated vibe of this city that’s
also surrounded by lush nature. So expect ern vegan food in town. This small funky
cafe with glass walls offers scrumptious sal-
lots of wood, stone and cutting-edge light in- ads, brown rice bowls and burgers, as well
stallations (and a touch of Asian cutesiness).
Also expect cityscape views that are just as as cakes and smoothies. Ingredients are var-
ied and creative, ranging from roasted garlic
stunning as the views of nearby hills gleam- hummus to lemon avocado to purple lime
ing with greenness on a sunny day.
beet balls. The blue goji smoothie is the best
5 Eating and creamiest medicine after a heavy night.
Auntie Xie’s TAIWANESE $$
(謝阿姨; Xiè Āyí; Map p60; %02-2388 1012; base-
5 Zhongzheng ment, 122 Bo’ai Rd; 博愛路122號B1; set menus
oLan Jia
TAIWANESE $ NT$350; h11.30am-2pm & 5.30-830pm; a;
(藍家; Lán Jiā; Map p66; %02-2368 1165; 3, Alley
8, Lane 316, Roosevelt Rd, Sec 3; 羅斯福路三段 mXimen) This very traditional and simple
basement restaurant is a secret favourite of
316巷8弄3號; steamed buns NT$50; h11am- locals. There’s no menu: each diner chooses
midnight Tue-Sun; mGongguan) Lan Jia is wide-
ly regarded as having the best guā bāo (刮 fish or meat, and dishes are decided by the
包) in Taiwan. What’s guā bāo? Think of a kitchen that day. Their signature dish is the
taro congee (芋頭粥; yùtou zhōu).
88
Breeze Taipei Station FOOD COURT $$ noodles are very appealing on a cool Taipei
(Map p60; 2nd fl, Taipei Main Station; h10am- evening.
10pm; W; mTaipei Main Station) On the 2nd
floor above the ticket purchase area of the Dongyi Paigu TAIWANESE $
(東一排骨總店; Dōngyī Páigǔ Zǒngdiàn; Map
Main Station are cafes, restaurants and p60; %02-2381 1487; 2nd fl, 61 Yanping S Rd; 延平
stalls serving Shanghainese dumplings,
beef noodles (there’s an entire subsection 南路61號2樓; rice dishes NT$140-170; h10am-
8.45pm Tue-Sun; a; mXimen) Disco lives – or
Ta i pei E atin g devoted to them), Japanese box sets, ramen, at least glitter balls, mirrored walls and
teppanyaki, traditional Taiwanese (again,
has its own subsection), sandwiches and lo- stained-glass ceilings do – at this flashy
but friendly place specialising in simple,
cal fast food. This place is always heaving; well-prepared páigŭ fàn (排骨飯; pork with
prepare to queue.
rice). There’s no English menu, but the pic-
tures on the wall are enough. The serving
5 Ximending & Wanhua ladies in white smocks are straight out of
oThai Food the 1960s and super smiley. Well worth it
THAI $ for the atmosphere.
(泰風味; Tài Fēngwèi; Map p60; 25, Lane 10, Cheng-
du Rd; 成都路10巷25號; dishes NT$100-300;
h2-10pm Tue-Sun; mXimen) Don’t overlook Modern Toilet Restaurant INTERNATIONAL $$
this unassuming place in the far corner (Map p60; %02-2311 8822; www.moderntoilet.
of the courtyard behind the Red House. com.tw; 2nd fl, 7, Lane 50,Xining S Rd; 西寧南路50
Basically a one-woman show (a Chinese 巷7號2樓; mains NT$250-490; h11.30am-10pm;
lady born in Thailand), Thai Food serves aWc; mXimen) Greeted by the sound of a
some of the most authentic and delicious toilet flushing, guests at this novelty restau-
curries, soups and salads in Taipei and at rant need a certain sense of humour – the
rock-b ottom prices. Two types of Thai beer kids seems to love it. Diners sit on toilets (lid
(NT$80) are also on offer. down), hotpots bubble on the table in their
own toilet bowl, and the ceiling lampshades
If you get here and it’s full, simply order are shaped like pyramids of pooh. The menu
and sit in any one of the bars in the courtyard. is bland international – curries, pasta and
hotpots – and you might want to avoid the
Lao Shan Dong chocolate sauce and gravy.
Homemade Noodles NOODLES $ You’ll be able to spot the candy-pink let-
(老山東牛肉家常麵店; Lǎoshāndōng Niúròu tering and giant toilet outside the building.
Jiācháng Miàndiàn; Map p60; Shop 15, basement, Head up to the 2nd floor.
70 Xining S Rd; 西寧南路70號地下室15; noodles
from NT$80; h11am-10pm; a; mXimen) Su-
per popular with locals, this unpretentious Dai Sya Rinn Restaurant JAPANESE $$
(大車輪餐飲企業; Dà Chēlún Cānyǐn Qǐyè; Da
canteen has been serving up handmade, Che Lun; Map p60; www.dsr.tw; 53 Emei St; 峨嵋
thick, floury, Shandong-style noodles – you
can watch the noodle makers in their puffs 街53號; dishes from NT$180; h11am-9.30pm;
a; mXimen) Plates of raw fish and assort-
of flour while you eat – since it opened in ed sushi are pulled past customers by tiny
1949 (a momentous year for Taiwan!). The
n oodles are firm and bouncy and the broth trains and Taiwanese pop music from the
’50s fills the air in this fun throwback to a
is light and tangy. The English menu is time when Emei St was a major commer-
handwritten in a child’s schoolbook.
The restaurant is located in a basement cial centre. Taipei’s first conveyor-belt sushi
joint, Da Che Lun still serves first-rate
food court from a bygone era. To get to it, seafood in this narrow, near-subterranean
just before you get to the Showtime Cine-
ma on Emei St, look for a small alley with hideout.
food carts. Walk inside and you’ll see a 5 Da’an
staircase heading downwards to your left –
once you descend just look for the sign
‘since 1949’. Chi Fan Shi Tang TAIWANESE $
(喫飯食堂; Chīfàn Shítáng; Map p66; 5, Lane 8,
Yongkang St; 永康街8巷5號; dishes NT$180-
Ay-Chung Flour Rice Noodle NOODLES $ 300; h11.30am-2pm & 5-9pm; W; mDongmen)
(阿宗麵線; Ā Zōng Miànxiàn; Map p60; 8-1 Emei
St; 峨嵋街8之1號; noodles NT$50-65; h9.30am- Taking homestyle Taiwanese cooking to a
higher level of freshness and presentation
10.30pm Mon-Thu, to 11pm Fri-Sun; mXimen) You is this popular eatery off Yongkang Park.
can spot this place by the huge crowds eat-
ing noodles outside. The slurpalicious, salty Chi Fan’s dim lighting and grey slate–and-
wood interior complement the modern
89
A STINKY-TOFU TOUR Ta i pei E atin g
Along with beef noodles, stinky tofu is one of those dishes that nearly defines Taiwanese
street food. So it’s not surprising there’s an entire street devoted to this blue cheese (or
stinky socks) of tofu and all its varieties: braised, barbecued, steamed, skewered, stewed
and deep-fried stinky tofu.
Shenkeng Old Street (老街) is in the town of Shenkeng (深坑), about a 10-minute
drive east from the Taipei Zoo. A prominent market and administrative area during the
Japanese era, the street’s handsome arcades and Western-style mansions were restored
in 2012. Even if you have no interest in tofu, the historic blocks are pleasant to stroll
along and open to beautiful mountain views in the back. There are plenty of other dishes
to sample as well.
Varieties of stinky tofu to try include the following:
¨¨Original recipe barbecued skewers (原味口味; yuánwèi kǒuwèi). There is a pleasing
contrast between the nutty smooth centre and the spongy outer skin.
¨¨Stewed stinky tofu with spicy duck’s blood (鴨血臭豆腐; yā xuè chòu dòufu) or braised tofu
(紅燒豆腐; hóngshāo dòufu) in a light broth. Both are pleasantly stinky and offer interesting
contrasts in texture – the creamy braised tofu yields in the mouth like a ripe peach.
¨¨Tofu in an oily, spicy sauce (麻辣豆腐; málà dòufu). The tofu here looks like a baked
abode brick and is topped with pickled mustard leaves and red chillies.
Finally, to top off the feast, head to the end of the street for a cone or bowl of soft tofu ice
cream (it’s not stinky).
Getting There & Away
At Muzha MRT station take Bus 660 (NT$15) and get off at the head of the old street
near a large spreading banyan tree. A taxi from the station (or from Taipei Zoo) will cost
less than NT$200.
approach, though the boisterous clientele Herban Kitchen & Bar VEGETARIAN $$
keep the atmosphere down to earth. Try (Map p74; 27, Lane 101, Zhongxiao E Rd, Sec 4; 忠
the cold chicken plate, the superb pumpkin 孝東路四段101巷27號; dishes NT$280-340;
and tofu (南瓜豆腐; nánguā dòufu) or the hnoon-11pm, kitchen closes 9.30pm; aWv;
oysters in garlic sauce (蒜泥蚵; suànní hé). mZhongxiao Dunhua) Three great things about
Herban: the little leafy garden, its own wine
Shida Night Market MARKET $ bar, and the sheer imaginative variety of
(師大路夜市; Shīdà Lù Yèshì; Map p66; h4-
11.30pm; mTaipower Building) Though the mar- very yummy meatless dishes from aubergine
moussaka to giant veggie burgers.
ket has been reduced in scale because of
noise complaints from nearby residents, it’s
Slack Season Noodles NOODLES $$
still a lively place for a cheap feed of tradi- (度小月; Dù Xiǎo Yuè; Map p74; %02-2773 1344;
tional snacks, for shopping, or for just hang- noodle1895.com; 12, Alley 8, Lane 216, Zhongxiao E
ing out in any number of small restaurants Rd, Sec 4; 忠孝東路四段216巷8弄12號; dishes
and cafes. NT$180-420; h11.30am-9.30pm; a; mZhong
xiao Dunhua) An upscale branch of a famous
oYongkang Beef Noodles NOODLES $$ Tainan-based snack restaurant. Note: there’s
(永康牛肉麵; Yǒngkāng Niúròumiàn; Map p66;
%02-2351 1051; 17, Lane 31, Jinshan S Rd, Sec 2; 金 no English sign. Slack Season (which refers
to the style of tangy noodles served during
山南路二段31巷17號; large/small beef noodles the fishing low season) serves a long menu
NT$180/200; h11am-3pm & 4-9.30pm; a;
mDongmen) Open since 1963, this is one of of southern dishes including mullet roe,
bamboo shoots with pork, outrageously
Taipei’s top spots for beef noodles, especial- good fried shrimp rolls, and of course the
ly of the hóngshāo (紅燒; red spicy broth)
variety. Beef portions are generous, and melt noodles (a mere NT$50 per bowl).
To get here take exit 3 of the MRT and
in your mouth. Other worthwhile dishes in- turn right on Lane 216 and again on Alley 8.
clude steamed ribs. Expect line-ups at lunch
and dinner. The restaurant is just down the alley. Look
for the sign reading ‘Since 1895’.
90
AFTER-HOURS HUNGER 5 Zhongshan & Datong
Between Technology Building and Da’an #21 Goose & Seafood TAIWANESE $
MRT stations you’ll find restaurants (21號鵝肉海鮮; 21 Hào É’ròu Hǎixiān; Map p70;
serving stomach-soothing Taiwanese %02-2536 2121; 21 Jinzou St; 錦州街21號; dishes
items such as wēn dòujiāng (温豆漿; NT$40-150; h5pm-4am; mZhongshan Elemen-
warm soy milk) and qīngzhoù (清粥; tary School) Loud, rustic and fun, #21 offers
Ta i pei E atin g thin rice porridge served with chunks of great food in a genuine Taiwanese environ-
sweet potato). Some are open very late, ment (you sit on little bamboo benches in an
and are popular with the postlibation bar open shop, facing street side). The place gets
crowd. Other places for a late-night fill its name from its two specialities: roasted
include #21 Goose & Seafood, Lin Dong goose meat and an assortment of fried and
Sen Beef Noodles and Matsu Noodles. stewed fish dishes. Get here early as seats
fill up fast with locals and Japanese tourists.
The kung pao chicken (宮保雞丁; gōngbǎo
jīdīng) is some of the best around.
Ice Monster DESSERTS $$
(Map p78; %02-8771 3263; www.ice-monster.com;
297 Zhongxiao E Rd, Sec 4; 忠孝東路四段297號; Shuanglian Vegetarian VEGETARIAN $
(雙連素食; Shuānglián Sùshí; Map p70; %02-
dishes NT$200-280; h10.30am-11.30pm; aW; 2550 3695; 50, Lane 25, Nanjing W Rd; 南京西路
mSun Yat-sen Memorial Hall) A super popular
shaved-ice joint with a wide menu of fla- 25巷50號; dishes NT$35-70; hnoon-11pm Mon-
Fri; v; mShuanglian) There’s no English sign;
vours, including strawberry, kiwi fruit and, do a 180-degree turn to the left from Exit 1 of
most famously, mango.
the MRT and listen for the Buddhist chant
music. This is a very local vegetarian eatery
Din Tai Fung DUMPLINGS $$ and the best place for nonmeat eaters to
(鼎泰豐; Dǐngtàifēng; Map p66; %02-2321 8928;
www.dintaifung.com.tw; 194 Xinyi Rd, Sec 2; 信義 sample the fake-meat versions of tradition-
al Taiwanese snacks. Recommended is the
路二段194號; dishes NT$90-260; h10am-9pm; wobbly jelly goodness of their fake meatballs
a; mDongmen) Taipei’s most celebrated
Shanghai-style dumpling shop (the New (ask for 素肉圓; sùròu yuán).
York Times once called it one of the 10 best Yangzhou Guan Tangbao DUMPLINGS $
restaurants in the world) is now a world-
wide franchise. This is the place that start- (揚州灌湯包; Yángzhōu Guàn Tāngbāo; Map p74;
%02-8772 3580; 284 Bade Rd, Sec 2; 八德路二
ed it all and daily meal-time line-ups attest 段284號; tāng bāo NT$90; h11am-9pm Tue-Sun;
to an enduring popularity. Try the classic
xiǎolóng bāo (小籠包; steamed pork dump- mNanjing Fuxing) An excellent value, fami-
ly-run restaurant serving some of the city’s
lings), done to perfection every time. Take best tāng bāo (湯包; thick dumplings filled
exit 5 from Dongmen MRT.
with a soupy broth in addition to meat and
veggies). A steamer holds eight dumplings.
NOMURA JAPANESE $$$ Pair up with some savoury lamb soup (羊肉
(Map p74; %02-2755 6587; 4, Alley 19, Lane 300,
Renai Rd, Sec 4; 仁愛路四段300巷19弄4號; 清湯; yángròu qīngtāng).
lunch/dinner per person from NT$1500/3000; Matsu Noodles NOODLES $
hnoon-2.30pm & 6pm-9.30pm Tue-Sun; a;
mXinyi Anhe) It’s widely believed that outside (馬祖麵; Mǎzǔ Miàn; Map p74; %02-2771 5406;
7 Liaoning St; 遼寧街7號; noodles from NT$70;
of Japan, Taipei is the best place in the world h24hr; mNanjing Fuxing) Excellent, cheap
for Japanese food. Several restaurants serv-
ing Edomae-style sushi (sushi that follows bowls of sesame-paste noodles (麻醬麵;
májiàng miàn), any time of the day or
the Tokyo traditions) have a great reputation night.
for Michelin-level quality of food and pres-
entation. Among these is NOMURA, named Lin Dong Sen Beef Noodles NOODLES $
(林東芳牛肉麵; Líndōngfāng Niúròu Miàn; Map
after the Japanese chef who founded the p74; %02-2752 2556; 274 Bade Rd, Sec 2; 八德
restaurant in 2011. NOMURA is a tiny, dis-
creet nook with a simple bamboo interior, 路二段274號; h11am-10pm Mon-Sat; mNanjing
Fuxing) You can’t miss this place for the open,
making it an ideal place for those who want street-side kitchen displaying vats of roiling
to sample top-end food without feeling they
need to dress to the nines. Reservations are beef-noodle broth. Nor should you as the
hóngshāo (紅燒; red spicy broth) style beef
usually needed, especially for dinner.
91
noodles here are renowned. Expect long dinners of concept food have been variously
line-ups and to eat standing up. called imaginative, creative, multiflavoured
and perfectly presented. The decor matches
Ningxia Night Market MARKET $ the decadent air with secret drawers and a
(寧夏夜市; Níngxià Yèshì; Map p70; cnr Ningxia & boat-shaped bar.
Nanjing W Rds; h6am-midnight; mZhongshan)
This is an excellent venue for sampling tra-
ditional snacks, not least because the street Shin Yeh TAIWANESE $$$
(欣葉台菜; Xīnyè Táicài; Map p70; %02-2523
is not cramped and most stalls have tables. 6757; www.shinyeh.com.tw; 8th fl, 12 Nanjing W Ta i pei E atin g
The food here is very fresh, and dishes to try Rd; 南京西路12號8樓; dishes NT$290-580;
include fish soup, oyster omelette, satay beef, h11.30am-4pm & 5-8.30pm; aW; mZhong-
sweet peanut soup (花生湯; huāshēng tāng) shan) This well-regarded chain serves up
and fried taro cake (芋餅; yùbǐng). If you are traditional Taiwanese food in an upscale
brave try the bitter tea (苦茶; kǔchá). environment. Try the fried tofu, stewed
pork or fried oysters. The restaurant is lo-
oQing Tian Xia CHINESE $$ cated on the 8th floor of Building 1 of the
(黔天下; Qián Tiānxià; Map p70; %02-2557 7872;
www.ocg.url.tw; 358-2 Dihua St, Sec 1; 迪化街一 Shin Kong Mitsukoshi Department Store
(take exit 2).
段358-2; dishes NT$150-500; h11.30am-2.30pm
& 5.30-9.30pm Tue-Sun; aW; mDaqiaotou) At
the northern end of historic Dihua St is 5 Shilin
Taipei’s first Guizhou restaurant. The inte-
rior is upscale but relaxed, and dishes are Vegetarian Kitchen VEGETARIAN $
(靜心健康素食坊; Jìngxīn Jiànkāng Sùshífāng;
authentic and well presented. There’s no Map p76; %02-8861 5141; 26 Meide St; 美德街
menu; order from your smartphone or the 26號; set meals NT$100-150; h11am-2.30pm &
restaurant’s tablet. The restaurant is in a 4.30-8pm; av; mShilin) This friendly family-
courtyard off the main street, just south of run vegetarian restaurant serves fresh and
Minquan W Rd. pretty tasty trays of meatless goodness –
either rice, noodles or cheesy pasta with
oAddiction Aquatic vegetables paired with a sweet lotus soup.
Development SEAFOOD $$ There’s lots of choice.
(上引水產; Shàng Yǐn Shuǐchǎn; www.addiction.
com.tw; 18, Alley 2, Lane 410, Minzu E Rd; 民族東 oMiaCucina
路410巷2弄18號; h10am-midnight; mXingtian VEGETARIAN $$
(Map p76; %02-8866 2658; 48 Dexing W Rd, 德行
Temple) Housed in the former Taipei Fish 西路48號; mains NT$250-285, set meals NT$480;
Market – you can’t miss it, it’s a huge blue- h11am-10pm; aW; mZhishan) Serving Italian
and-slate-grey building – is this collection food in American portions, this place is best
of chic eateries serving the freshest seafood enjoyed with a friend. Super popular, espe-
imaginable. There’s a stand-up sushi bar, a cially with expats; it’s worthwhile booking
seafood bar (with wine available), hotpot, an if you come at lunch or dinner peak times.
outdoor grill, a wholesale area for take-home Panini, fresh pasta, soups and salads – we
seafood and a lifestyle boutique. This place recommend the sweet mustard panini with
is popular and doesn’t take reservations. apple, caramelised onion, pecans, dried
To get there from Xingtian Temple, head cranberries, mozzarella and sweet mustard.
east along Minquan E Rd, then turn north Mouth watering!
at the funeral parlour following the curve of
the Jianguo elevated road. Cross to the oth- Din Tai Fung DUMPLINGS $$
(鼎泰豐; Dǐngtàifēng; Map p76; %02-2833
er side at Nongan St and continue heading 8900; www.dintaifung.com.tw/en; SOGO mall, B1,
north. Within a couple of minutes you will
see the building down an alley to your right. 77 Zhongshan N Rd, Sec 6; 中山北路六段77號;
h10.30am-9.30pm Mon-Fri, 10am-9.30pm Sat &
It’s about a 10- to 15-minute walk. Sun; mZhishan) This branch of the famous
oRAW MODERN FRENCH $$$ Din Tai Fung dumpling restaurant is a good
opportunity to experience their legendary
(Map p56; %02-8501 5800; www.raw.com.tw; 301 fare without the tourist crush, although you
Lequn Rd, Sec 3; 樂群路三段301號; per person
NT$1850; h11.30am-2.30pm & 6-10pm Wed-Sun; may still have to queue up. At least you can
wait in the comfort of the air-conditioned
a; mJiannan Rd) RAW is all the rage in Taipei. SOGO mall. Good option if you’re hungry
You’ll need to make reservations a month in
advance for this place owned by Taiwanese after visiting the Palace Museum (p71). See
website for other branches in central Taipei.
celebrity chef Andre Chiang. Multicourse set
92
5 Songshan Minder Vegetarian VEGETARIAN $
(明德素食園; Míngdé Sùshí Yuán; Map p78; www.
minder.com.tw; B1, Eslite Xinyi, 11 Songao Rd; 松
Ankor Wat Snacks CAMBODIAN $ 高路11號; price by weight; h11am-9.20pm; v;
(吳哥窟小吃; Wú Gē Kū Xiǎochī; Map p74; 454-2
Changchun Rd; 長春路454-2; dishes NT$85-100; mTaipei City Hall) Minder is a chain of buffet-
h11am-8.30pm Mon-Sat; mNanjing Fuxing) In re- style vegetarian (not vegan) restaurants run
cent years, Taipei has seen the establishment by the controversial and very wealthy Tzu
Ta i pei D rinkin g & N i g htlife of a number of tiny family-run restaurants Chi Buddhist Foundation. That said, the se-
serving excellent ethnic cuisine at rock- lection and quality of dishes is usually a tad
bottom prices. Ankor Wat is one of these. better than most, but the cost is also slightly
Try the jiāomá jī (椒麻雞; fried chicken higher. This branch in the basement of the
on shredded cabbage) or Cambodian curry Eslite Xinyi has a great selection of vegeta-
(柬式咖哩; jiǎnshì gālí) with pho noodles bles, fake meats and crispy salads.
(河粉; héfěn), rice noodles (米粉; mǐfěn) or
French bread. There’s a picture menu to help Good Cho’s CAFE $$
you decide. (好丘; Hǎo Qiū; Map p78; 54 Songqin St; 松勤街
54號; mains from NT$300; h10am-8pm Mon-
Fri, 9am-6.30pm Sat & Sun, closed 1st Mon of the
Raohe Street Night Market MARKET $
(饒河街觀光夜市; Ráohéjiē Guānguāng Yèshì; month; aW; mTaipei 101) S Inside former
h5pm-midnight; mSongshan) Taipei’s oldest military-dependant Village 44 is this sub-
night market, Raohe St is a single pedestri- dued cafe/performance space/lifestyle shop
an lane stretching between two ornate gates. with marble floors, retro lighting and great
In between you’ll find a great assortment of acoustics. With its emphasis on history,
Taiwanese eats, treats and sometimes even community and local products, Good Cho’s
seats. Look for pork ribs in herbal broth, is a welcome break from the flash and con-
vermicelli and oysters, spicy stinky tofu and sumerism of the Xinyi District.
steamed buns.
Food is quite brunchy – bagels and sa-
voury pancakes. There’s a minimum charge
Kunming Islamic Restaurant INDIAN $$ of NT$120.
(昆明園; Kūnmíng Yuán; Map p74; http://kun
ming-islamic.myweb.hinet.net; 26, Lane 81, Fuxing 6 Drinking & Nightlife
N Rd; 復興北路81巷26號; dishes NT$180-300;
h11.30am-2pm & 5.30-9.30pm Mon-Fri, 5.30-
9.30pm Sat & Sun; aW; mNanjing Fuxing) This 6 Zhongzheng
halal restaurant serves some of the best, if Cafe Macho CAFE
not the best, Indian in town. Try their lamb (早秋咖啡; Zǎoqiū Kāfēi; Map p66; %02-2368
vindaloo. 5029; www.facebook.com/CafeMacho; 10 Jinjiang
St; 晉江街10號; hnoon-midnight; W; mGut-
ing) The name may be macho but the staff
5 Xinyi are typically super-smiley young Taiwanese
women. Inside it’s industrial chic with con-
oVege Creek VEGAN $ crete flooring and brick walls. If you need
(蔬河; Shū Hé; Map p78; www.facebook.com/ a spell on your laptop, go for the long high
vegecreek; 2, Lane 129, Yanji St; 延吉街129巷2 table with power points. At night the place
號; noodles about NT$180; hnoon-2pm & 5-9pm; turns into a bar, with a small smoking gar-
aWv; mSun Yat-sen Memorial Hall) One of den outside, but the best thing here is the
Taipei’s best vegan restaurants. The novel- Baileys latte.
ty here is you choose the ingredients for a
tongue-banging noodle broth – fill the plas-
tic holdall with your choice of vegetables, Chun Shui Tang TRADITIONAL DRINKS
fake meats, tofu, noodle type and tubes of (春水堂; Chūnshuǐ Táng; Map p60; www.chun
fresh leafy goodness. Inexpensive, healthy shuitang.com.tw; ground fl, National Concert Hall;
and filling. There’s another branch open h11.30am-8.30pm; mChiang Kai-shek Memori-
all day in basement food court of the eslite al Hall) The pearl milk tea here is supposed
shopping mall. to be the best in the city – pink, frothy and
creamy with smaller, firmer pearls and only
The only downside is that it seems waste- lightly sweetened. There are branches across
ful to package the vegetable servings in their the city, but this one on the ground floor
own plastic sachets. Get here early because of the National Concert Hall is one of the
there’s just one central wooden table and it nicest. Traditional light noodle dishes and
gets busy. Chinese desserts are also available.
93
Ol’ Farts BAR in an old Japanese-era corner shop is this
decades-old place selling a refreshing suān
(老屁股; Lǎo Pìgǔ; Map p66; 2nd fl, 38 Roosevelt méitāng (酸梅湯; sour plum juice).
Rd, Sec 3; 羅斯福路三段38號2樓; h6pm-
midnight Tue-Sun; W; mTaipower Building) A
quiet place for a casual drink, with a good
whisky selection and very cheap beers (from 6 Ximending & Wanhua
oRed House Bar Street
NT$100). A nice window pocket looks down GAY BARS
on Roosevelt Rd. Ol’ Farts is a one-woman (Map p60; Behind the Red House; h6pm-late; W; Ta i pei D rinkin g & N i g htlife
mXimen) This strip of open-air bars behind
operation, run by owner Shou-lan Chou. She the historic Red House is a friendly and live-
can even cook up some traditional Taiwan- ly gay district that welcomes everyone. You
ese snacks to go with your beer. will often see families with children mixing
with the camp crowd.
Funky GAY
(Map p60; B1-10, Hangzhou S Rd, Sec 1; 杭州南路 oHerb Alley
一段10號B1; h9.30pm-late; mShandao Temple) TRADITIONAL DRINKS
Operating since 1991, this is still one of the (青草巷; Qīngcǎo Xiàng; Map p60; Lane 224,
Xichang St; 西昌路224巷; drinks NT$15-50;
most popular gay clubs in Taipei, attracting h9am-10pm; mLongshan Temple) Just around
both an international and a local crowd.
Somewhere in the basement is a karaoke. the corner from Longshan Temple is this
herb-selling area that dates back to Qing
Mayor’s Residence Art Salon CAFE times. It’s a great place to sample some
(市長官邸藝文沙龍; Shìzhǎng Guāndǐ Yìwén of the incredible range of Chinese herbal
Shālóng; Map p60; www.mayorsalon.tw; 46 Xu-
zhou Rd; 徐州路46號; h9am-9pm; W; mShan- drinks available, though some may truly
curdle your liver.
dao Temple) Built in 1940, this is one of the
best-preserved large Japanese-style resi- Fong Da Coffee CAFE
dences in Taiwan. With its heritage styling, (蜂大咖啡; Fēngdà Kāfēi; Map p60; %02-2371
9577; 42 Chengdu Rd; 成都路42號; h8am-10pm;
great natural lighting and garden it’s a su- mXimen) One of Taipei’s original coffee
perb place for a coffee, tea or light meal. Art
exhibits are frequently held here. shops, Fong Da dates from 1956 and still
uses some of the original equipment. It’s al-
H*ours Cafe CAFE ways bustling, testament to the great brews
(Map p66; %02-2364 2742; www.facebook.com/ to be had here. It’s also a great place to
hours.cafe; 12, Alley 8, Lane 210, Roosevelt Rd, Sec
3; 羅斯福路三段210巷8弄12號; h2-11pm; W; buy whole beans or coffee-brewing devices
such as siphons or Italian stovetop espresso
mTaipower Building) Lovely little gay-owned makers.
cafe and bookshop serving simple snacks
and beverages. Eighty-Eightea TEAHOUSE
(八拾捌茶; Bāshíbā Chá; Map p60; %02-2312
Lao Pai Gongyuan Hao TRADITIONAL DRINKS 0845; eightyeightea.com; Xibenyuan Temple Sq,
(老牌公園號; Lǎopái Gōngyuán Hào; Map p60; cnr Changsha St & Zhonghua Rd; h1-9pm Mon-Fri,
%02-2311 3009; 2 Hengyang Rd; 衡陽路2號; 10.30am-9pm Sat & Sun; W; mXimen) Housed
drinks NT$25; h10.30am-8pm; mNTU Hospi- in the refurbished wooden quarters of a
tal) Across from 2-28 Peace Memorial Park Japanese priest, this lovely teahouse really
ALL THE TEA IN TAIWAN
Tea growing and drinking has a venerable tradition in Taiwan. While most people head
to Maokong when they want to enjoy brewing and imbibing, there are a few excellent
places within the city as well, many set in beautifully restored Japanese-era residences.
Eighty-Eightea (p93), for example, is housed in a refurbished priest’s digs!
If bubble tea (boba cha) is your cuppa, good news: you’ll find endless roadside stands
and stalls throughout the city selling it hot or cold with ice. Most of these places also offer
fruit-flavoured teas, such as lemon or passion fruit, and sweetened or unsweetened black
and green-tea-flavoured drinks for between NT$30 and NT$60 a cup. 50 Lan, Comebuy
(our favourite) and CoCo are three of the most popular chains; you’ll see them everywhere.
Note: if you bring your own flask, you can save on plastic and sometimes get a small
discount.
Ta i pei D rinkin g & N i g htlife94
GAY & LESBIAN TAIPEI
Foreign-born gay and lesbian travellers will find Taipei friendly and exciting. An
open-minded city, Taipei hosts Asia’s finest Gay Pride parade (p79) every October. It’s
common to see LGBT couples holding hands on the streets, though not common to see
them kissing. The centre of gay nightlife is the bar and restaurant area around the Red
House (p93) in Ximending.
Useful resources include Utopia (www.utopia-asia.com), Taiwan LGBT Hotline Associ-
ation (hotline.org.tw/english) and Taiwan LGBT Pride (twpride.org).
While in Taipei you can get up-to-date information on gay nightlife options from Toto
at three little birds (p81) hostel. A community of lesbians often meets at Love Boat
(p99); ask for Olivia.
Men’s Saunas
The two enduring and most popular men’s saunas are Rainbow Sauna and the much
flashier ANIKi Club (p96).
LGBT Venues
Taboo (p97) Friday and Saturday are usually the biggest nights at this lesbian venue.
There’s a dance floor and DJ. Taboo often has theme parties: those who dress up get in
cheaper. Be sure to bring your ID!
Funky (p93) Operating since 1991, this is still one of the most popular gay clubs in
the city.
Goldfish (p97) Cocktail lounge for bears.
GinGin’s (p100) Gay and lesbian bookshop and cafe.
Love Boat (p99) A friendly shop for the LGBT, but mostly lesbian, community, with both
in-store and online sales.
catches the afternoon light through its oOunce Taipei BAR
w indows. There’s a Japanese sitting area, as
well as regular tables, where you can enjoy (Map p74; www.ouncetaipei.com; 40, Lane 63,
one of their own branded Taiwanese teas. Dunhua S Rd, Sec 2; 敦化南路二段63巷40號;
Simple rice dishes are also available. h7pm-2am Mon-Sat; W; mXinyi Anhe) This
slick speakeasy-style bar is everything you’d
expect it to be: hidden behind a secret door,
Rainbow Sauna GAY heavy on the dark hardwood and dim lights,
(彩虹會館; Cǎihóng Huìguǎn; Map p60; 2nd fl, 142 and serving top-rated cocktails. The estab-
Kunming St; 昆明街142號2樓; h24hr; mXimen)
One of Taipei’s oldest gay saunas and still lishment is fronted by Relax cafe. On week-
ends, best get here before 9pm or you will
going strong. A bit dark and grungy now, struggle to snag a pew.
but popular with younger guys because it’s
cheaper. oWistaria Tea House
TEAHOUSE
(紫藤廬; Zǐténg Lú; Map p66; %02-2363 7375;
www.wistariateahouse.com; 1, Lane 16, Xinsheng
6 Da’an Rd, Sec 3; 新生路三段16弄1號; h10am-11pm;
oSomething Ales
MICROBREWERY W; mTaipower Building) History, nostalgia and
(Map p66; 195 Roosevelt Rd, Sec 3; 羅斯福路三 fine tea combine in this charming former
段195號; h9pm-1am Sun-Thu, 8.30pm-2am Fri
& Sat; mTaipower Building) Owner Arvin has Japanese-era wooden dormitory. Wistaria
more than 200 different types of bottled was built in 1920 for naval personnel and
craft beer and usually one on tap – local later used as a hangout for artists, literati
and imported brews, Belgian and American and political dissidents following the 1979
IPAs. He keeps a low-key, comfy bar and Kaohsiung Incident (which led to the arrest
might as well have a PhD in craft beerology. and imprisonment of most of the top de-
Note: the location will likely change in late mocracy advocates in Taiwan).
2016, but it’s well worth seeking out. The teahouse has a fine selection of
oolongs, Tie Guanyin, green teas, and some
rare pu’er (dark fermented) tea that could
95
set you back thousands in one afternoon of Hui Liu TEAHOUSE
drinking. Light meals and snacks are also (回留; Huíliú; Map p66; %02-2392 6707; 9, Lane
served. 31, Yongkang St; 永康街31巷9號; h10am-8pm;
mDongmen) On the far side of Yongkang
Water Moon Tea House TEAHOUSE Park, Hui Liu is a gracious teahouse with
(水月草堂; Shuǐyuè Cǎotáng; Map p74; %02- lovely window seats facing the park. Fra-
2702 8399; www.teawatermoon.com; 2, Alley 180,
Fuxing S Rd, Sec 2; 復興南路二段180巷2號; h2- grant Taiwanese oolong steams out of little
shiny beige teapots. High-quality organic
10pm; W; mTechnology Building) With some of teas and ceramic pieces are on sale. Ta i pei D rinkin g & N i g htlife
the city’s oldest and finest teas, an elegant
design and classes in tea appreciation, this Cafe Libero CAFE
(Map p66; %02-2356 7129; 1, Lane 243, Jinhua St;
is the place for the serious tea drinker, or for 金華街243巷1號; h11am-midnight Mon-Sat, noon-
someone looking to learn more about the
art. Sundays see a large expat crowd of qi- 6pm Sun; W; mDongmen) Set in a house from
the 1950s with vintage furniture and a Zelko-
gong enthusiasts. via parquet floor, this is the type of hip place
Costumice Cafe CAFE you take someone to show them your insider
knowledge of the city. Libero is on a street
(Map p74; %02-2711 8086; http://costumice.com; with another half-a-dozen excellent cafes.
6, Alley 71, Lane 223, Zhongxiao E Rd, Sec 4; 忠孝
東路四段223巷71弄6號; hnoon-midnight Sun-
Thu, to 1am Fri & Sat; W; mZhongxiao Dunhua)
This ultrahip cafe-bar has a marvellous 6 Zhongshan & Datong
leafy yard, perfect for a lazy afternoon wine oLugou Cafe CAFE
(爐鍋咖啡; Lúguō Kāfēi; Map p70; %02-2555
or coffee. With draught craft beer and its 8225; www.facebook.com/luguocafeartyard; 1, 2nd
semi-Gothic interior, Costumice is one of
Taipei’s most happening and welcoming fl, Lane 32, Dihua St, Sec 1; 迪化街一段32巷1號
2樓; h11am-7pm; W; mZhongshan) Speciality
drinking establishments. coffees (including some local choices such
Cafe Odeon BAR as Alishan) in a heritage building (originally
(Map p66; www.cafeodeon.com.tw; 11, Lane 86, the chemist AS Watson & Co) on Dihua St.
Xinsheng S Rd, Sec 3; 新生南路三段86巷11號; Mismatched furniture, eclectic decor, Frank
h4pm-midnight Sun-Thu, to 1am Fri & Sat; W; Sinatra jazz: grab a window seat and step
mGongguan) A fixture of the National Taiwan back in time. The coffee is a pleasure, the
University area since 1997, Odeon has one sandwiches not so.
of the largest beer menus in Taiwan, with The building has been taken over by a
brews from Belgium, the UK and elsewhere. group of young artist-designers who call
Drinks are expensive here, so it’s more of a themselves ArtYard and have taken over a
number of buildings on Dihua St. Upstairs
place to linger and chat with friends than to is the thinker theatre. Ask at the cafe for a
party. Friendly bar staff.
leaflet to see what’s on; occasionally there
Cha Cha Thé TEAHOUSE are English-language performances.
(采采食茶; Cǎi Cǎi Shí Chá; Map p74; %02-8773
1818; www.chachathe.com; 23, Lane 219, Fuxing S
Rd, Sec 1; 復興南路一段219巷23號; h11am-
10pm; W; mZhongxiao Fuxing) Hyper-stylish THE BAR SCENE
but genuinely serene teahouse by designer
Shiatzy Chen. One wall is made of com- There’s no lack of bars within the city,
pressed tea bricks. There’s beautifully pack- although prices are quite high. Typically,
aged tea for sale. beers sell for between NT$150 and
NT$300, spirits or cocktails NT$250
Drop Coffee House CAFE and NT$400. Places that open early
(6pm) tend to have happy hours until
(滴咖啡; Dī Kāfēi; Map p66; %02-2368 4222; 1, around 8pm.
Lane 76, Xinsheng S Rd, Sec 3; 新生南路三段76
巷1號; h10am-11pm; W; mGongguan) Set in Bars break down into three main
an 80-year-old gutted Japanese-era private types: the student-y hangouts around
residence with lovely worn wooden flooring. Taiwan National University, the speak-
Serves single-origin coffee from places such easy cocktail bars around Xinye Anhe,
as Rwanda and Brazil. The aroma of coffee and a growing young professional drink-
hits you as you walk in. ing scene around Zhongxiao Dunhua
MRT station.
Ta i pei D rinkin g & N i g htlife96
ASIA’S COFFEE CAPITAL
If you are a coffee drinker, you will be pleasantly surprised to see how much the Taiwan-
ese have embraced the bean. The story of how this happened on an island whose tradi-
tional drink is surely tea is a bit of a mystery, but how and where you can get your hands
on the perfect cup is not.
History of Coffee Culture in Taipei
In recent years, Taipei has emerged as Asia’s coffee capital. It seems the Dutch first
planted coffee around the Gukeng area (Yunlin County) in the 17th century, but for cen-
turies the red beans were used only for decorative purposes by indigenous peoples.
Things really began about 10 years ago as Taiwanese living or studying abroad started
bringing back new ideas about how to make proper coffee. As is usual here, they found
a ready audience eager both to try new things and to learn to appreciate the drink
at a higher level. Today you’ll find scores of cafes serving gourmet coffee, often from
single-origin beans (some locally grown), roasted on the premises and brewed in a slow,
labour-intensive way right in front of you.
Where to Get a Good Cup
Passable fresh-brewed coffee is available at any convenience store for NT$30 to NT$50.
Some of the best, and ridiculously cheap for the quality, coffee comes from chains like
CAMA, which roast on the premises and cater to takeaway. If you’re a fan of the Aussie
flat white, another chain, Louisa Coffee, launched the city’s first flat white budget take
away cup in summer 2016.
There are high concentrations of cafes on Lane 243 just south of Yongkang Park; the
alleys north of Zhongshan MRT Exit 2; and Dihua St Sec 1. But you will find coffee shops
virtually all over the city.
Useful Coffee Lingo
While most people understand the English terms, and most cafes have English menus,
it’s good to know some Chinese.
Americano – 美式咖啡, Měishì kāfēi
espresso – 濃縮咖啡, nóngsuō kāfēi
latte – 拿鐵, ná tiě
cappuccino –卡布奇諾, Kǎbùjīnuò
mocha 摩卡, Mókǎ
Add 熱 (rè) in front of drink name to mean hot, or 冰 (bīng) to mean iced.
ANIKi Club GAY nese in 1925. Next door is the Tsai Jui-yueh
dance studio, and together the cafe and stu-
(Map p70; www.aniki.com.tw; 11 Ningxia Rd; 寧夏 dio are known as the Rose Heritage Site. Tsai
路11號; NT$1000 for 16 hr; h24hr; W; mZhong- was a pioneer of modern dance in Taiwan.
shan) This gay sauna remains one of the
most popular saunas with younger men. It
has great facilities, is clean and modern, and G*Star Club GAY
includes a gym. (Map p74; %02-2721 8323; www.facebook.com/
gstarclub; B1, 23, Longjiang Rd; 龍江路23號;
h10pm-late; mNanjing Fuxing) A crazy crowd
Dance Cafe CAFE
(玫瑰古蹟跳舞咖啡廳; Méiguī Gǔjī Tiàowǔ Kāfēi of mainly young Taiwanese guys. The club
Tīng; Map p70; 1, Lane 46, Zhongshan N Rd, Sec
2; 中山北路2段46巷1號; h10am-10pm; W; is very active in terms of events and parties.
Drinks are not overpriced.
mShuanglian) Elegant, serene and loaded
with history, this cafe is located in a former Super 346 Livehouse BREWERY
wooden dormitory (with a large deck spill- (Map p74; 85 Bade Rd, Sec 2; 八德路二段85號;
h4pm-1am; W; mZhongxiao Xinsheng) The
ing on to a grassy lawn) built by the Japa- creepy walk from Bade Rd through the old
97
brewery at night to get to Super 346 Live- Cafe Dogs & Cats CAFE
house is what makes this place worth a trip.
Built in 1919 as Taiwan’s first brewery, this (小貓花園; Xiǎomāo Huāyuán; Map p76; 129 Fu-
landmark building has gone through many hua Rd; 復華路129; hnoon-10pm; W#; mZhis-
names, beginning with Takasago. At the han) Cat cafes are very popular in Taiwan
back is the large warehouse that by night and this is reportedly the capital’s first ever
serves as a rowdy beer hall with live bands. feline-filled coffee shop. Even though the
There is a NT$500 minimum charge. staff aren’t particularly friendly, it’s a fun
place for a creamy latte – they come with a Ta i pei D rinkin g & N i g htlife
cat paw design in the foam that lasts right to
Goldfish GAY the bottom of the cup. You can buy snacks
(Map p60; %02-2581 3133; www.facebook.com/ for very many mostly sleepy cats.
goldfishtaipei; 13, Lane 85, Linsen N Rd; 林森北路
85巷13號; h9pm-late; W; mShandao Temple) There are usually a couple of dogs here,
including a very sleepy golden retriever.
Nice cocktail bar with inventive recipes in Note: no children under 12 years old, and
the Japanese quarter. Popular with bears
and muscled types. you’ll get chased out or charged NT$100 if
you just come in to gawp at the cats.
Le Zinc WINE BAR 6 Songshan
(Map p70; www.facebook.com/lezinclo; 67 Dihua
St, Sec 1; 迪化街一段67號; h10am-7pm Sun &
Mon, to midnight Tue-Sat; W; mZhongshan) This oFujin Tree 353 CAFE
warm and stylish cafe/wine bar is set at (%02-2749 5225; www.facebook.com/fujintree
353cafe; 353 Fujin St; 富錦街353號; h9am-
the far back of one of Dihua St’s traditional 6.30pm Mon-Fri, to 7.30pm Sat & Sun; W; mSong-
brick shops (originally a medicine shop built
in 1923). Enter via Artyard67 (p101), a won- shan Airport) With outdoor seating facing
tree-lined Fujin St, this cafe is hard to beat.
derful ceramic studio, to get a look at how Inside it’s all woodwork, mood lighting and
these very long and narrow buildings were
constructed to facilitate air flow and natu- strategically placed twigs. If you want to
people-watch Taiwan’s hip generation, this
ral lighting. If you arrive late, enter from the is ground control.
back alley.
The Fujin Tree Group, which have also
opened a designer housewares shop and a
Taboo LESBIAN champagne and oyster bar, is responsible
(Map p74; www.taboo.com.tw; 90 Jianguo N Rd, Sec for driving this area’s transformation into a
2; 建國北路二段90號; h7pm-1am Wed & Thu,
10pm-4am Fri & Sat; mXingtian Temple) This les- trendy enclave. They have made a walking
bian club attracts a very young set of girls, map of the Fujin St area, which you can pick
with the liveliest nights Friday and Saturday. up in the cafe.
There’s a dance floor and DJ. For women,
it’s NT$300 to NT$500 to get in, with free Rokucyoumecafe CAFE
drinks all night. This encourages rather a (六丁目; Liù Dīngmù; %02-2761 5510; 7, Lane 6,
Xinzhong St; 新中街6巷7號; hnoon-9pm Sun-
lot of drinking. For men, entry is NT$700 or Thu, to 10pm Fri & Sat; Wc; mNanjing Sanmin)
more, depending on the event. Taboo often
has theme parties: those who dress up get in This cute cafe is aiming to be a little bit of
Tokyo in Taiwan. Its speciality is matcha,
cheaper. Be sure to bring your ID! that favoured flavouring from Japan made
6 Shilin from powdered green tea. Matcha lattes and
home-cooked cakes are so green they look
too special to eat. Their coffee is genuinely
Vagabond Cafe BAR excellent and lovingly prepared.
(流浪觀點咖啡館; Liúlàng Guāndiǎn Kāfēiguǎn;
Map p76; %02-2831 1195; 13 Fushou St; 福壽街
13號; hnoon-2am Wed-Sat, to midnight Mon; W; 6 Xinyi
mShilin) This funky little arty cafe slash bar –
not a bad whisky selection, by the way – has Yue Yue CAFE
a youngish local vibe and a marvellous mis- (閱樂書店; Yuèlè Shūdiàn; Map p78; Songshan
Cultural & Creative Park; h9am-2am; W; mTai-
cellany of furniture from saggy old couches pei City Hall) This bookish cafe with a piano,
to study desks for laptopping. Wednesday
and Saturday nights are movie nights. a sofa and green-shaded banker’s lamps is
open until 2am. The lattice windows, high
The entrance is on Lane 236, Zhongzheng roof and lazy vibe make it a marvellous
Rd, directly opposite Shilin MRT Exit 1.
98
choice for a late-night coffee or bottled beer. Asia. The National Theatre was closed for
There’s also seating facing the lake, but you refurbishment at the time of updating, and
may want to bring some mosquito repellent. due to reopen February 2017.
The cafe often holds events in the evening, Revolver LIVE MUSIC
such as movie nights. Wednesday night is
open mike night (usually in Chinese) with (Map p60; www.revolver.tw; 1 Roosevelt Rd, Sec
Comedy Club Live. 1; 羅斯福路一段; live music upstairs NT$300;
h6.30pm-3am Mon-Sat, to 1am Sun; W; mChiang
Ta i pei E ntertainment Kai-shek Memorial Hall) One of Taipei’s liveliest
Beer & Cheese Social House MICROBREWERY spots for drinking and live music. Very pop-
(Map p74; %02-2737 1983; 117 Keelung Rd, Sec 2; ular with expats and foreign students, who
基隆路二段117號; h6pm-1am; W; mTaipei 101) start spilling out on to the street by 8pm.
Beer and Cheese is exactly that. Dozens of This bar/pub/dance club is a great place to
very tasty craft beers paired with toasted catch a live music act, hang out, play pool
cheese sandwiches or a cheese platter. The and drink cheapish beer.
celebrity brew is the smoked snifter, which
is a solid beer poured over a chilled goblet of TAV Cafe LIVE MUSIC
wood smoke. The place itself is very ‘man’s
club’: dark walls, leatherette booths and a (藝術村餐坊; Yìshù Cūn Cān Fang; Map p60;
glare-lit bar area. www.tavcafe.com; 7 Beiping E Rd; 北平東路7號;
hnoon-2am Tue-Sun; W; mShandao Temple) For
live foreign jazz and folk music most week-
Club Myst CLUB
(Map p78; www.club-myst.com; 9th fl, ATT4FUN, 12 ends check out this small bar/cafe inside
Songshou Rd; 松壽路12號9樓; h10pm-4am; W; the Taipei Artist Village (p59). TAV has a
mTaipei 101) Pole dancers, an indoor waterfall surprisingly large garden area out back with
and buckets of fancy booze; this is Club Myst lots of trees for shade during the day. See the
in the aptly named ATT4FUN building. It has website for upcoming events.
one of the capital’s biggest dance floors and a
swoon-inducing view of Taipei. Wall Live House LIVE MUSIC
3 Entertainment (www.thewall.com.tw; B1, 200 Roosevelt Rd, Sec
4; 羅斯福路四段200號B1; club NT$200, bands
from NT$500; h8pm-late; mGongguan) The
cavernous Wall is Taipei’s premier venue for
3 Zhongzheng independent music, both local and interna-
tional. Descend the dark stairs and smell the
National Theatre stale beer. This is very definitely the place
& Concert Hall CONCERT VENUE for the cool indie kids.
(國家戲劇院, 國家音樂廳; Guójiā Xìjù Yuàn,
Guójiā Yīnyuè Tīng; Map p60; %02-3393 9888;
www.ntch.edu.tw; Liberty Sq; W; mChiang Kai- 3 Ximending & Wanhua
shek Memorial Hall) Located inside Liberty Sq,
the National Theatre and Concert Hall host Riverside Live House LIVE MUSIC
large-scale concerts and cultural events
including dances, musicals, Chinese and (河岸留言; Hé’àn Liúyán; Map p60; %02-2370
Western opera, and concerts of Chinese 8805; www.riverside.com.tw; 177 Xining S Rd; 西寧
and Western classical and popular music. 南路177號; mXimen) One of Taipei’s best live
The halls, completed in 1987, were among music venues, the 800-seat Riverside sits
the first major performance venues built in at the back of the historic Red House (p64)
in Ximending. Acts range from local Man-
dopop (Mandarin pop music) to jazz and
straight-on rock and roll.
USEFUL WEBSITES 3 Da’an
Taipei Travel (www.taipeitravel.net/en) Blue Note JAZZ
Lists the dates for current and upcom-
ing festivals and other large events. (藍調; Lándiào; Map p66; %02-2362 2333; 4th
fl, 171 Roosevelt Rd, Sec 3; 羅斯福路三段171號
Taipei Cultural Center (www.tmseh. 4樓; h8pm-1am; mTaipower Building) Taipei’s
taipei.gov.tw) For theatre, opera, dance, longest-running jazz club, Blue Note has
puppetry, etc. been in the same location since 1978. It’s a
moody little cavern in dark blue. Check its
ArtsTicket (www.artsticket.com.tw) For Facebook page (search for Blue Note 藍調)
ticket information and times.
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