JUDAS BONSAI TREE
growing instructions and information booklet
Bonsai is an ancient Japanese art form which practices many
traditional and ancient principles to produce miniaturized
trees. Similar practices exist in other cultures, including the
Chinese tradition of penzai or penjing from which the art of
Bonsai originated.
A Bonsai tree can be grown from seed or created from most
perennial woody-stemmed tree or shrub specimens (a cutting
or seedling) that produce branches. These specimens can
then be raised to remain small by restricting their growth.
Using techniques such as pruning, root reduction, potting,
defoliation, and grafting will develop your Bonsai into a
traditionally styled wonder that imitates the shape and scale of
fully grown trees.
Some species of trees are more popular as Bonsai because
they naturally have the characteristics associated with Bonsai,
such as small leaves or needles. The style you choose to grow
will ultimately determine where you trim your tree and which
direction you train the branches.
When the Bonsai nears its planned final size, it is planted in a
display pot, usually one with accepted shapes and
proportions.
Index
3 A little about Bonsai
6-7 Accessories Included in the Kit
8 Seeds Included
9 Species - Bonsai Species Included
10 - 11 The Auto Irrigation Pot
12 - 13 Sowing your Seeds
14 - 15 Stratification
16 - 17 Seedlings
18 - 19 Two True Leaves
20 - 21 Watering your Bonsai
22 - 23 Pruning your Bonsai
24 - 25 Bonsai Tree Styles
26 - 27 Training your Bonsai
28 - 29 Wiring your Tree
30 - 31 De-Foliation
32 - 33 Creating Deadwood
34 - 35 Surface Roots
36 - 37 Bonsai Trunks
38 - 39 Re-Potting your Bonsai
40 Bonsai Trivia - Just for Fun
41 Come and visit our Website
RIGHT TOOLS FOR THE JOB ACCESSORIES 1 Auto Irrigation Pot
INCLUDED IN Planting Pots with propagation
lids to aid the germination
THIS KIT process.
Having the right tools for 2 Bamboo Plant Marker
the job is one of the most Stylish Plant Identification Marker
critical points when that look great on display with
embarking on any new your Bonsai.
task, and with the Simply
Plant Grow your own 3 Small Leaf Trimmer
Bonsai Kit you certainly Stylish and compact set of leaf
have just that. and small branch trimmers.
The Auto Irrigation Pots are 4 Jiffy Peat Pellets
just one of the accessories 2 Jiffy Pellets filled with
we have designed and high-quality substrate and then
developed. Small Leaf compressed into a pellet.
Pruners for the care and
maintenance cycle, the 5 Bonsai Seeds
Jiffy peat discs which are Amazing Species of seed packets
recognised as the market filled with enough seeds to grow
leader for peat products on many Bonsai Trees.
the market today, and just
for that added extra, our
stylish plant markers.
31
24
5
IT STARTS WITH THE SEED Bonsai Seeds
Included in this kit
Name: Judas Tree
Latin: Cercis siliquastrum
Family: Fabaceae
Exposure: Light Shade
Soil: Nutrient Rich
Foliage: Deciduous
Flowering: May to June
We are proud to provide you with the finest quality seeds, you see all
of our products have been designed by gardeners, for gardeners.
Each and every seed that we supply is sourced from our trusted
supply chain. The care in which the seeds are gathered, stored, and
packed gives every seed the best chance of germination
(germination is the process by which an organism grows from a
seed).
Once we take delivery of a consignment of seeds, we inspect them
for quality, pack them, and store them - ready to be used in Grow
your own Kits or, sell them individually to our customers.
JUDAS TREE
The Judas Bonsai Tree is a firm favourite of everyone at Simply Plant and is
very popular with many Bonsai enthusiasts, not only because of the
stunningly beautiful heart-shaped leaves and clusters of bright pink
pea-flowers which are revealed when in season. The Judas tree is part of the
family Genus Cercis which are deciduous shrubs or small trees.
It is thought that the name Judas Tree comes from the apostle Judas
Ischariot, who after betraying Jesus to the Romans, had hanged himself on
a Cercis tree
INGENIOUS IRRIGATION POTS THE AUTO 1
IRRIGATION POT 2
3
1
Propagation Cover:
The propagation lid creates
a moist environment which
is ideal for seed germination.
2
The Irrigator:
The Irrigator part is the
home for soil and seeds,
along with the water
absorption strip.
3
Water Station:
Providing your plants with
the water they need to keep
the soil moist and help your
plants thrive.
FILLING THE NO MORE MISSED WATERING
WATER STATION
STRESS FREE WATERING
Inside the water station you
will see a maximum water
fill marker. Pour in room
temperature water to the fill
line and set aside.
ONLY FILL WITH WATER
ONCE YOU HAVE
COMPLETED STRATIFICATION
INSERT THE
ABSORPTION STRIP
In the kit you will find an
absorption strip. Feed one
strip through the holes in
the bottom of the Auto
Irrigator.
Make sure that each end of
the strip is level to maximise
the water absorbing.
1 MAKE THE
NUTRIENT SOIL
FROM PELLET TO PRIME SOIL In a large bowl, place the 2
peat discs and add 100ml of
room temperature water.
Sit back and watch the peat
discs absorb all the water
(you don’t have to watch but
we enjoy this bit). Once
absorbed, break apart so it
resembles soil.
SOW THE SEEDS2 PREPARE & SOW Fill Soil line
THE SEEDS
Take some of the seeds
which you want to grow and
soak them for 48 hrs. in
warm tap water.
The reason for doing this is
to soften the shell of the
seed which will give the
seedling a better chance of
breaking through its shell.
SOW THE 3
SEED & ASSEMBLE
Sowing Seeds: LET THE GROWING COMMENCE
Fill the Irrigator section (No 2
on the diagram) around
10mm from the top with the
soil from the peat disc.
Sprinkle seeds evenly and
thinly over the surface of the
compost. Cover seeds with
a thin layer of compost,
about the same depth as
the size of the seed.
Assemble the
Auto Irrigation Pot:
Place the water station on a
flat surface, then insert the
Irrigation part into it, be sure
the absorption strips are in
the water, then place the
propagation lid on the top.
Step 4:
Stratification
STRATIFICATION When it comes to seed germination, Once you have prepared the seeds
seeds require cold treatment for and sown them into the Auto
them to sprout properly. Irrigation Pot it is now time to start
the stratification process.
The stratification process is a critical
part of growing Bonsai Trees from To start, you should place the pot in
seed. Seed stratification is the the fridge for between two and
process where the exact conditions three weeks. Be sure to keep the
which seeds require for them to peat damp but not wet. We do not
germinate are met. In other words, recommend adding any water to the
you must mimic winter conditions Auto Irrigation Pot during this time
for the seed and then spring as the water from the Jiffy peat disc
conditions. In winter seeds are will be sufficient for the seeds.
dormant but when spring comes
and temperatures rise, seeds begin Check on the seeds every few days
the germination process. and if you notice the seeds are
sprouting then remove them from
Some seeds require a warm and the fridge straight away and place
moist stratification, however Bonsai on your windowsill.
seeds perform better in a cool and
wet environment. Cold treatment is
necessary for plants or trees that
require time in the ground over
winter to germinate.
Step 5:
Seedlings
SEEDLINGS There is no better feeling when The steps you need to complete
raising plants from seed than when now is to remove your seedlings
you see the shoots of green rearing from the fridge and place on a
their heads above the soil for the first windowsill.
time. But this is where the real care
and attention starts, and the more Keep the propagation lid in place on
attention and care you take the the Auto Irrigation Pot so that the
more chance you will have at germination process can start.
success. Just because the seeds
have managed to germinate does Again, keep a close eye on the
not mean the plants are out of seedlings and keep the soil moist.
danger.
The best temperature for seedlings
The key points to remember when to thrive is between 70 and 80 F (21
your seedlings are starting to grow to 26 C.). If possible, try to avoid
are; exposing the seedlings to
temperatures below this for more
Keep the plants in a sunny location than a few hours and above 100 F
during the day but at night time be (37 C.), as this may stunt the growth
sure they are not in an area where of the root.
there are cold drafts as this will stunt
their growth.
Do not over-water, keep your water
level below the fill line in the Water
Station section of the Auto Irrigation
Pot.
Step 6:
The “True Leaves”
TRUE LEAVES If you are a seasoned grower you Now that the true leaves have
will most probably have heard the developed, this is a clear sign that
term “true leaves”. The phrase is the plant is now photosynthesising.
most commonly used when Eventually the cotyledons will fall off
growing plants from seed, but what as the true leaves take over feeding
exactly are true leaves? the plant.
When a seed first emerges from the What you need to be mindful of now
soil, it has a set of two leaves called is more about care of the plant.
cotyledons. Cotyledons are a part of
the seed and act as a food source Monitor the water level in the Water
for the sprouting seedling. Currently, Station section of the Auto Irrigation
the seedling does not conduct Pot, ensuring the water does not run
photosynthesis as it receives all its out.
necessary nutrition and food from
the cotyledons. Keep the propagation lid in place on
the Auto Irrigation Pot until the
As the seedling grows stronger, it seedling’s leaves are reaching the
produces two more leaves, these top of the propagation lid. Once the
leaves are vastly different in seedling reaches this point,
appearance to that of cotyledons. transplant to a Bonsai growing Pot.
These leaves are known as the “true
leaves” and do bear the look of the Now all that you need to
leaves which the plant will grow as it concentrate on is the care, pruning
matures. and training of your Bonsai.
Watering
your Bonsai
TIME FOR A DRINK The main cause of a Bonsai tree not One particularly important point to
growing to its potential, looking and remember is never to water your
being unhealthy or, in the very worst bonsai on a routine. Keep observing
of cases, dying, is the lack of water your trees individually.
or, in most cases, over watering.
It does not really matter at what time
How often a Bonsai tree needs to be you water a Bonsai, however avoid
watered depends on several factors watering (with very cold water)
(like species of tree, size of tree, size during the afternoon, as the soil will
of pot, time of year, soil-mixture, and have been warmed up by the sun
climate), However, if you follow a and will cool down rapidly if using
few basic guidelines this will help cold water. It should always be clear
you to observe when a tree needs to that you should water your tree no
be watered. We would recommend matter what time it is as soon as the
checking your Bonsai each morning soil gets slightly dry!
and evening.
When the soil gets slightly dry, it
When the soil is slightly dry to touch needs a thorough soaking, so the
you should water your trees. This entire root system is wetted. To do
means you should not water your so, keep watering until water runs
tree when the soil is still wet but only out of the drainage holes, and
when it feels slightly dry; use your possibly repeat the process a few
fingers to check the soil at around minutes later. Water a tree from
1cm deep. Once you get more above using a watering can with a
experienced you will be able to see fine nozzle; this will prevent the soil
(instead of feel) when a tree needs from being washed away.
watering.
TIME FOR A HAIRCUT Pruning
your Bonsai
There are many benefits of pruning The first is maintenance pruning,
your Bonsai, not only the pleasing which is carried out to maintain and
aesthetics of shaping and moulding refine the existing shape of a Bonsai.
your prized possession but also the
calming effect of simply trimming The second type of pruning is
this miniature tree. structural pruning, which is a more
rigorous pruning style, which gives a
The objective with pruning is to tree its basic shape or style.
maintain the shape of the Bonsai as
it grows. Whilst also cleaning up the You will need to prune the branches,
top growth which will ensure growth the buds, and the leaves of your tree
elsewhere on the plant. to shape it in the correct way. If this is
not done, the branches of your tree
Use bonsai clippers (not scissors!) to will grow unevenly as the branches
remove any dead branches. Then of the tree will grow to compete for
decide which branches to trim to sunlight and distribute growth to the
maintain the desired design. Bonsai top of the tree. Pruning needs to be
pruning is considered an art form. done to counteract this.
The most important way to train a
Bonsai to your desired style is to
prune it on a regular basis. There are
two different pruning methods
which you should practice:
THE CHOICE IS YOURS Bonsai
Tree Styles
Bonsai Tree styles serve many Literati Bonsai style (Bunjingi)
purposes in the art of Bonsai, This style of tree is found in
some practical, some aesthetic. In overcrowded areas populated by
their simplest and most common many other trees. The trees only
application, styles provide a form chance of survival is by growing
of description for bonsai trees. As taller than all the other trees which
you can see on the adjacent page are around it.
the most common styles of Bonsai
are shown. Styles are generally Growing in a rock Bonsai (Ishisuki)
used as a guide they are not In this style the roots of the tree are
essential for a tree to be growing in the cracks and holes of
considered Bonsai. the rock.
Formal upright Bonsai (Chokkan) Windswept Bonsai (Fukinagashi)
You will see the formal upright The windswept style is quite self-
style, especially when the tree is explanatory and a good example of
exposed to an abundance of light trees that struggle to survive in
and does not face competition bleak conditions coping with harsh
from neighbouring trees. surroundings.
Slanting Bonsai style (Shakan) Informal upright Bonsai (Moyogi)
As a result of the wind blowing The informal upright style is
mainly in one direction or when a common in both nature and in the
tree grows in the shadow and art of Bonsai. The trunk grows
must lean towards the sun, the upright roughly in the shape of a
tree will bend in that direction. letter ‘S’.
Formal upright Bonsai Slanting Bonsai
(Chokkan) (Shakan)
Literati Bonsai Growing in a rock Bonsai
(Bunjingi) (Ishisuki)
Windswept Bonsai Informal upright Bonsai
(Fukinagashi) (Moyogi)
IT’S ALL IN THE TRAINING Training your Using the right materials is vital for
Bonsai Tree wiring a Bonsai tree. There are
generally two types of wire that can
Wiring is a crucial technique in be used: anodized aluminium and
training your Bonsai tree to grow annealed copper. The aluminium
to your desired style. By wrapping wire is used for deciduous species,
wire around the branches of a tree while the harder copper wire is used
you can bend and reposition the for conifers and pines. However, if
direction of which you want each you are a beginner, we advise you to
branch to grow. It usually takes 2-3 use the anodized aluminium wire, as
months before the branches are it is easier to work with.
fully set in their position, after this
period you can remove the wire. Wire is available in a range of
different thickness’s, varying from 1
You can train the tree through to 8mm. There is no need to
wiring and bending throughout purchase all the available wires;
the year for most tree-species. buying 1mm, 1.5mm, 2.5mm and
Most deciduous species should 4mm thick wire will be sufficient
be wired in late winter, the when starting.
absence of leaves makes wiring
much easier. During the growth
season branches grow thick
relatively quickly, so you must be
careful that the wire does not cut
into the bark, creating ugly scars.
Check on your tree regularly and
remove the wire on time.
LIGHT TOUCHES AND PATIENCE How to wire
Bonsai Trees
The most important point to The wire should be wrapped around
the limbs at a 45-degree angle in a
remember when wiring a Bonsai “Helter Skelter” shape and should
form to the limb to guide its
tree is to make sure the plant that direction. One important point is to
make sure that the wire is not overly
you are wiring is healthy and the tight as this will damage the branch
and cut into it. By loosely wrapping
wire you are using is the correct the wire around the branches it will
just guide the direction rather than
wire as detailed in the previous strangling the tree into submission.
section. Patience and a light touch Once the time has passed and the
branches are in the desired position,
are the essential tools for this it is time to take the wire off. Again, a
light touch is needed to cut the wire
process, take your time and be and remove it, do not unwind the
wire as you may inadvertently
incredibly careful about damage the tree or even break a
branch.
supporting the plant throughout
the process. As you apply the wire,
hold the limb in both hands and
remember to bend the wire to the
branch and not the other way
around.
When wiring, the starting position
for the wire is on the trunk, then
you should advance to the
thickest branches then finally to
the thinnest. Bend the wire up the
trunk and outwards on the
branches, from the trunk to the tip.
Position yourself so that you are
wiring towards yourself.
TIME FOR NEW GROWTH PROMOTION De-Foliating your
Bonsai Tree
Defoliating or leaf-cutting is a Defoliation should not be carried out
horticultural technique that on any species of Bonsai that are
involves removing all or a large evergreen. Use it only with
part of the leaves and all buds at deciduous Bonsai. Fig, Maple, Oak,
the end of each shoot of a Bonsai Beech, Hawthorn, and Elm are only
tree during the Summer. Many a few of the species that respond
growers perform defoliation to well.
accelerate the growth of the
Bonsai with new branches while The best period for defoliation of
increasing the number of leaves Bonsai is in the middle of the
over time. growing season, we recommend
June - July. If you defoliate after
One extremely important point to August, the risk of late leaf cutting
consider is that defoliation is an increases and the likely-hood of no
incredibly stressful procedure for new shoots coming out in the same
any Bonsai to undergo and is one year is heightened.
which will temporarily weaken the
tree, so we strongly recommend After defoliating your Bonsai in the
that you only do this on healthy summer, it is a great time to begin
Bonsai that have shown no signs wiring. The Bonsai wire can stay on
of distress. Trees that show signs the tree until next spring, giving the
of weak growth, whether it be due tree ample time for the wiring
to recent re-potting, disease, process to complete.
styling, or recent hard pruning, are
not suitable for defoliating.
NOW THIS IS NEXT LEVEL Creating Deadwood to
Enhance your Bonsai
The technique of artificially some sandpaper. To prevent rotting,
creating deadwood on a Bonsai “paint” the exposed edges with Lime
tree is practiced to mimic the look sulphur. This will take a night to dry
of an old tree which has endured out properly.
extreme weather conditions and
bears the battle scars to prove it. Choosing the right spot for a Shari,
As Bonsai trees are generally not only one that looks good but
grown indoors it is impossible for also does not cut off an essential
the Bonsai to naturally acquire stream of nutrients for branches
these marks. There are 2 different located higher in the tree, is difficult.
types of deadwood on Bonsai Before you start removing bark,
trees, known as Jin and Shari. It is draw the desired shape of the Shari
important to know the difference on the trunk with chalk. Do not take
and when to undertake each any risk and spread out the process
technique. of creating a Shari over the course of
several months, if not years. Start
Jin is the technique of creating with a narrow strip of bark which you
deadwood on whole branches. can widen in stages. Cut through the
This technique is used to create bark with a sharp knife and tear it
the appearance of age and down using Jin pliers. Once the
struggle for the Bonsai. Firstly, desired shape is ready you can
remove the bark from the branch, slightly hollow the trunk using a
so only the hardwood remains. Concave cutter or graving tools.
Using Jin pliers, pull away slithers Now bleach the Shari part by
of wood and cut them off at the “painting” it with Lime sulphur, which
end of the desired Jin. When the will protect the Bonsai tree against
basic shape of the Jin is ready, infections as well.
round off sharp edges using
SHARI
JIN
THE ROOT TO STABILITY Surface Roots for a
Stunning Bonsai
The root structure of a Bonsai is 3. Remove roots that bend back
hugely important in terms of look toward the trunk if they are close to
and appearance. The roots are the surface of the soil.
categorized as underground roots
and exposed surface roots are 4. Spread these top roots out so that
called “Nebari”. The Nebari roots they spread out away from the trunk
complete the appearance of the if the Bonsai is to be upright, straight
Bonsai and are vital to the growth in shape, or leaning to one side if the
of the plant. Bonsai is to bend in one direction,
away from where the roots will be
1. To start with Nebari there must more visible. Trim thin or weak top
first be established roots on your roots, leaving only the thick, woody
plant in order for you to arrange roots visible.
them. Firstly, remove the Bonsai
tree from its pot, and gently shake 5. To re pot the root ball into the pot,
the soil away from around the fill the areas around the roots with
roots. Unravel the roots that are soil. Leave the roots at the top
tangled, or pot bound. exposed above the soil line. Water
the newly planted Bonsai after
2. The aim for this step is to trim potting whenever the surface of the
away roots that are growing in a soil feels dry. The pruned roots will
downward direction, if there are grow, and the exposed surface roots
bigger roots growing downward will become secure.
simply redirect them sidewards.
Clip the taproot of the tree back to
prevent it from continuing to grow
down and pushing the tree out of
the pot.
A MIGHTY TRUNK WILL GROW Bonsai Trunks
are so important
As discussed in previous sections Cutting Back the Trunk, Sacrificial
of this booklet, the aim when Branches, Trunk Merge, and
growing a Bonsai is to mimic the Bending the Trunk, but many are
style and look of mature trees. fraught with issues.
So why is trunk tapering so Our preferred technique when
important? When you look at a attempting to thicken the trunk is to
mature tree outdoors, the trunk grow some sacrificial branches.
seems tall and slender, but, as Basically, you will allow a couple of
you get closer to the tree the branches near the top of the tree to
trunk is much thicker, if you then grow without pruning them then
look up you see a noticeably big once the trunk has reached its
trunk that tapers very strongly. It desired thickness the sacrificial
really is just a matter of branches should be cut off.
perspective!
The trunk is the most aesthetically
and recognisable part of a Bonsai
and this does require special
consideration as it should be
much thicker at its base than at
the roof of the tree, this technique
is called tapering.
There are many techniques for
thickening the trunk of a Bonsai
such as: Splitting the Trunk,
REFURBING YOUR POT Re-Potting and
Root Pruning
Bonsai grow in a relatively small in search of food and nutrients to
amount of soil and the tree will of grow and this is generally found in
course, in time, fill its pot with the ground in which they are
roots. If the plant is not re-potted planted. When a tree is outside, the
after an extended period, the plant resources and space that the root
will begin to suffer. It is imperative system can grow is plentiful.
in Bonsai to maintain a healthy However, when you are growing
specimen and allowing the roots plants in pots or containers this is
to develop is vital. A healthy tree not the case and this needs to be
that is re-potted properly will grow closely monitored for the plant to be
much more. healthy.
Re-potting is not something that Root pruning does cause necessary
can be done on a regular basis, it is damage to the tree and restricts the
important to assess the tree in intake of water and nutrients.
Springtime to check whether the Therefore, it must be done at the
roots are circling around the root correct time. At the start of
system. If they are, this is an September leaves will fall from
indication that your Bonsai needs deciduous plants and evergreens
to be re-potted. If the roots are still are slipping into dormancy, and the
contained within soil, they do not roots are becoming more active, this
require to be re-potted so just is when we would recommend
leave it and check again the pruning the roots.
following spring.
Any plant that grows is continually
DID YOU KNOW Bonsai Trivia
Just for FUN
The smallest Bonsai tree in the world will fit in the palm of your hand!
The most expensive Bonsai tree was sold for $1.3 million and was
sold in Japan during the International Bonsai Convention in
Takamatsu.
The oldest living Bonsai in the world today is said to be well over
1,000 years old, the Ficus retusa Linn in Italy resides in the Crespi
Bonsai Museum and stands at over 3 meters high and just under 3
meters wide.
The second Saturday in May is the Official World Bonsai Day.
One common misconception of Bonsai is that they are specific dwarf
tree species. In fact, they can be created from almost any trees and
shrubs.
The biggest Bonsai in the world can be found in a garden in Atami,
Japan. The 600-year-old red pine Bonsai is 16 feet (5 m) tall and 32
feet (10 m) wide.
If you need
more supplies
or something a
little bit special
for your garden
please visit our
website
www.simply-plant.com