Oyster News 48 - Oyster Yachts

Magen’s Cove long helicopter tour over the entire island (yes, including the Cordilleras) showing the natural
beauty of the place, but also the foolish mistakes people make when insensitive building
"It is really the small things and disdain for the locale is allowed. According to the pilot, matters have been improving
that enchant you: the intricate during the last 10 years, in that there has been more public scrutiny, and better regulations.

delicacy of a tiny red orchid We decided to leave at dusk, in order to be in St Thomas early the next morning. El Morro
bloom, the scramble up a watched us head out the harbor, the brilliant colors of Old San Juan accompanied us until
path of slippery rocks to a the sun melted into the horizon. After dark, San Juan continued to guard our passage with
millions of faintly twinkling lights hovering high over the coastline of the island, the lights in
hidden waterfall, or the many all the houses and huts crawling up and peaking on the mountains in the island's interior.
sweet flowering shrubs and
trees, including the Way before the next sunrise, just as the first veils of grey shimmered on the water, chunks
ubiquitous white ginger. Its of rock appeared: Dry Rocka, Saba Island, Porpoise Rock, all guarding the West Gregeri
Channel into the port. Talisman glided by them, past further and bigger mounts and turned
very simplicity is soothing - a into Port Charlotte-Amalie. We dropped anchor to wait for everyone to get up and have
walk into the clouds" breakfast before heading into the "real islands". Looming next to our sleek boat was this
big black high structure with Mickey Mouse ears. Disney the omnipresent, here in the guise
of a cruise ship!

First stop, Christmas Cove, where we found a total of only five sailboats, gently swinging on
their anchors in the blue water that can only be found in these islands. A crescent of white
sand, the turquoise hull of a beached boat reminding us of our fragility, and peace. We
took down the dinghy and puttered around, then settled for a nice dinner on deck, and went
to sleep under a moonless sky.

Our next destination was all but two hours away, Magen's Cove. Hills, symmetrical on both
sides, guided us into a deep, wide, perfect cove. Ahead of us lay a beautiful beach, a few
dozen people, some kayaks and sailboats. Talisman loomed huge, as close in as possible
in cerulean water. We swam to shore, just for the fun of it. Rob and Julian rented a boat
and proceeded to terrorize the waters. It was Julian's first time in such a small sailboat,
but definitely not Rob's. When the lads returned, it was with a huge grin covering every
cell on their bodies. Sophia showed off her summer-camp acquired prowess in kayaking.
Back on board, we 'rope swung' into the water, including a Patrick/Julian tandem style
jump, which attracted a couple on their kayak. It turned out to be the editor of the local
newspaper, in need of something to liven up the summer hiatus of news. He engaged us
in conversation, then double-stroked to land to fetch his camera. The picture of father/son
made it into the local paper.

We spent the night in Great Harbor on Jost Van Dyke, another very short trip away, in
another country, British Virgins. We realized by now that sailing in the Virgins means 1-2
hour excursions, often across the expanse of water called the Francis Drake Channel. It is
humbling to reflect on that name, giant among explorers, on the fact that we are following
his wake, in a manner of speaking. Except that there is only pleasure involved in the kind of
island hopping we were doing. Because of the depth, anchorages mostly had buoys,
costing usually $20 per night, collected by a local in a little boat. The breezes are constant
and, depending on the location, strong but not challenging. There is an endless choice of
cays and spots to spend the night. An even more limitless buffet of dive spots, beaches,
bars, hills to climb, villages to visit. And because we were there in off-season, endless
space and peace. It seemed that we had the islands to ourselves.

Back to Jost Van Dyke. After paying our $20, we went ashore to have dinner at the world-
famous (so they claim) "beach and beer joint", Foxy's. A smart local musician-cum-
restaurateur created this beach empire, which one has to check off one's list of must do's.
A couple of thatch-covered, open buildings with the sand floor level or the wood floor level,
brassieres of every size and kind as well as a few jockstraps hanging off the ceiling,
hammocks strung up between palm trees (a sought after spot), live music, great waiters,
surprisingly good food, and that dog... a yap-less little Chihuahua, proudly surveying his
realm, and when fancy strikes him, he just hops up on your lap and partakes of dinner. He
seems to be an institution within an institution. Also on the agenda was the visit to the gift
shop, where we all bought our obligatory souvenir.

www.oystermarine.com 51

One hour to Sandy Spit, a little speck of an island atop a reef. We got there early, lowered "We strung up
the dinghy, and snorkelled, scuba-dived, swam, and watched as more and more boats the hammock on
puttered in. By 3.30 pm, the time when most lifted their anchors again, the fleet must have the bow, sipped
grown to more than 15 boats, all on the inside of the Spit. When you look to the windward
side of the island, or to its right, you realize just how precariously the spit of sand is a glass of wine
straddling the rocks keeping out the seas. On the ocean side, you become philosophical. and watched the
You begin to realize that in the really old days, people may not have had the knowledge we
have now, the explanations for natural phenomena, but that they understood the big picture. skies perform
their nightly
Next stop, Cane Gardens on Tortola. We pulled into yet another perfect embrace of land,
found our mooring, and took the dinghy to the dock just to see up close the handful of dance of colors"
Caribbean colonial buildings sitting right there on the beach, next to the dive shacks and
the rustic barbecue hut and some great beach bars. Jane's dinner beckoned however; we Julian and Patrick prepare
strung up the hammock on the bow, sipped a glass of wine and watched the skies perform for a dive on the Rhone
their nightly dance of colors.

Heading south-westerly, via Thatch Cut around the West End tip of Tortola to the opposite
part of the island, into Harbor Town. This is a harbor within a harbor, the inner marina being
very protected. We stayed overnight in Harbor Town, to do some laundry and some
maintenance. Great little book exchange in the marina office, and some nice little shops all
of which were closed. The large grocery store and the drugstore-cum-everything-else-store
next door presented a veritable anthropological study of how people really live. Nothing
touristy, all real life. In all fairness, we "explored" little, as we did not want to be in towns or
on land. We wanted the ease and stillness and excitement of reclusion from real life.

Excitement: Salt Island, across Sir Francis Drake Channel beckoned, with is first-rate wreck,
the Rhone. The island got its name from the salt ponds, which are still operational. We tied
up to a mooring right on top of the stern section of the ship, an ocean steamer of about
300 feet in length, which sank during a hurricane in 1867. Its hull is in 20-80 feet of water.
We could see parts of it when we put on our masks and looked down. The lads suited up
for a nice dive.

We swam above them, watching their descent, their air bubbles tickling our skin. The
snorkelling team made it to the little beach. The landing procedure was not graceful due to
a long, shallow portion leading up to land, studded with a tumble of flat, slippery rocks.
Each wave would push us ahead a bit over the rocks and simultaneously pull us back, our
flippers useless. We made it back before the "real" divers, who came up with wonderful
photos. Swimming through the interior of the hull, below the ribs of the boat, into a school
of bright fish. Turning a corner and coming face to face with a big turtle.

The next day saw us at Norman Island with its Caves. Rob had told us about the wonderful
snorkelling, and that is what we did right after tying up to a mooring a few feet away from
the first cave. Its entrance a black hole, a little scary to venture in. The beauty of this place
is in the intimate close-ups - the perfect chrysanthemum yellow of the feathery coral, the
purple algae coating the rocks just above the low water level, the millions of tiny herring
swimming as one, right at the line of light in the entrance of the cave.

We spent more time exploring the underwater world outside the caves; it did not look very
healthy, I would guess because too many boats come to that spot. At night we puttered
around the corner into the Bight, another incredibly beautiful anchorage, with its famous
Wet Willies local drinking barge. It is said that in the advanced hours, revellers take off
their clothes and jump into the water. Julian was very interested to hear about this, but
alas, the active daylight activities influence even a teenager's sleeping pattern. Late nights
were definitely out.

After breakfast, we "sailed" to The Indians, a formation of four large rocks that rise from the
ocean floor to about 90 feet. It is located off Pelican Island between Peter and Norman
Island. The three comrades went for another dive around the entire base of the rocks, as
well as into some deep crevices, and mother/daughter went a very long, wonderful
snorkelling trip, right through a school of mini herrings, and a ballet of pink jelly fish.

52 www.oystermarine.com Snorkelling through a school of herring

The end of another perfect day Later we sailed for a couple of hours, to Virgin Gorda in order to partake in the Baths. We
Patrick Florentino found an anchorage right at the Baths, so that the next morning after breakfast the children
took off, parents in tow. One cannot appreciate or even fathom the size of the rocks unless
one is standing amongst them. They remind you of elephants, in size as well as in color
and texture. You almost expect to hear the gentle blowing elephants make with their trunks
when they investigate something.

Millions of years ago when the Caribbean and the Atlantic plates ground against one
another they birthed these mammoth granite boulders. Amazingly, despite
their size and jumbled-ness, one feels no fear climbing between them,
even though they still do move, a few centimeters each year. At
the other end of the trail is a completely enclosed beach
with waist deep water, where everyone just
congregates to float.

Lunch was served picnic-style, swum ashore
by wily Rob and Jane in trash bags inflated
via the Scuba tanks. Jane even included
desert! Later that day we sailed to the
northern end of Virgin Gorda, into
the yacht club The Bitter End. A
very appropriate name, because
we would not have minded
staying there until the bitter
end. We had a very authentic
Caribbean dinner served by a
great waiter who really could
deal with our motley crew and
sense of humor, and a
wonderful time the next day
with Julian and Rob once
again breaking imaginary
records in speed sailing and
Sophia taking a Hoby Cat lesson,
also flying across the water.

We left the Virgin behind, rounding
Mountain Point, back into Drake
Channel to Peter Island. I cannot
remember the name of the bay; it might
have been Deadman Bay. Talisman was one
of four boats spending the night. By that time,
the dinghy had become useless, so one of us would
swim ashore to rent a kayak as transportation. Ashore we
found the kind of place which makes us never want to leave:
chairs missing some parts but still serviceable, hammocks strung
among trees, a little shack with diving stuff, a wooden terrace hanging over
the rocks, covered by blue and white canvas, an open air kitchen where the utensils and
dishes are kept in open cupboards. The chef and the waitresses together with the food
are brought in everyday by boat. The local caretaker lives in a shack behind the
hammocks. Nothing is perfect, nothing is new, and everything is exactly how it should be,
because none of the new and perfect things are important in a place where the water and
the sky are and the hills and the breeze go under your skin into your soul.

This was our bitter end. We had to leave to go back to our civilization, only to take with us
the images and sounds of the time spent on Talisman. On the way to St. Thomas, where
we would leave the boat in Rob and Jane's hands to bring her home, we passed a sign on
St. James Island, at the south-eastern tip of St. Thomas: "Island for Sale". Maybe?

Gabriele Fiorentino, Oyster 61 Talisman

Photos: The Fiorentino family www.oystermarine.com 53

LAGOS TO

By Barry Sadler
Oyster Heritage 37
Lady Clarinha

Having lived in the the night, with the odd transport aeroplane
Algarve since 1969, I flying from the USA into Rota – a large
have met many USA base, just south of Chipiona.
‘yachties’ and sadly most seem
to use Lagos as a refuelling station As you approach the tall Chipiona
before heading for Gibraltar and beyond. lighthouse, you eventually pick up the
This in itself is a pity as Lagos, the one outer boy and, as the channel is for large
time capital of the Algarve, has a lot to ocean-going liners and cargo boats going
offer. Transport to and from Lisbon-Faro to Seville, there is no problem with depth
is easy with excellent supermarkets, banks in the channel.
and other facilities making this an ideal
base as many have discovered. I would Passing towards the well-bouyed channel
recommend you to take the time to with the returning fishing boats going to
explore the delights of Southern Portugal Bonanza, at buoy No1 El Perro 36.45.8 N
and the Bay of Cadiz. 6.26.9 W, you can turn to SE to starboard
and enter the small and very efficient
However, for the purpose of this article, marina of Chipiona. If approaching from
I will try to give an insight into the Huelva, pick up buoy No 2 Picacho 37.8 2
delightful cruise from Lagos to Seville and N 6.49.5 W and then No 1 and into
Chipiona. If approaching from the south,
back, all of which can beware of Bajo Salmedina 36.44 4N 6.
be accomplished in 10 28.6 W and leave well to starboard.
days with ease. This is one of many efficient and
inexpensive Government run marinas,
Lagos to Chipiona in a
straight line is about
120nm and departing mid
morning from Lagos you
will see the loom of Huelva,
Seville and Cadiz during

A 10 DAY CRUISE

SEVILLE AND BACK

clean and tidy with water and electricity However, it can be bumpy in a strong and are replaced by markers on the banks
to all pontoons, and excellent security. blow, so we caught the bus. of the river. These are designed for large
There is a large chandlery, mainly for ocean-going vessels, so trees from the
motorboats, plus a haul-out facility and an The passage to Seville up river (working deck of a small yacht obscure some. On
excellent restaurant. The delightful town of channel 12) is no problem with no length the way up, you may pass a hundred or
Chipiona is within walking distance with restriction, so even the longest Oyster can more prawn fishing boats moored fore and
banks, supermarkets, wine shops etc and sail into Seville! Maximum beam is 24.60 aft, with large nets on the bow and stern.
a very convenient bus service (less than a metres and height 43 metres with LW 6 The nets are lowered into the water as the
Euro) to San Lucar de Barrameda. It is the metre depth. If you follow the pilot’s tides go in and out – no going to sea for
home of the Manzanilla Sherry, with a dry advice and leave two hours before low these guys!
and salty tang, due to the proximity of the water at Bonanza, you could take the tide
vines being grown close to the sea. all the way to Seville. Sailing into the lock There is an excellent local coffee table
system at Club Nautica and arriving before pilot book for sale at the Chipiona Marina,
Apart from several small and well-stocked high water, the chances are that the locks "La Navegacion de Recreo Por El Rio De
chandlers just outside the marina, mail might also be open. Sevilla". The book is written in Spanish
order items can be arranged within 48 and English and, apart from a very detailed
hours from Barcelona and there is an After leaving Bonanza, to the port side is description of tides etc, also contains
excellent Volvo engine mechanic within the National Park of Donana, tours can be many illustrations and charts for each
walking distance. arranged from San Lucar at the old ice section of the river, plus a detailed chart of
factory on the seafront. The length of the the bridges into the Club Nautica, Seville.
One of the delights of San Lucar is to river is some 55 miles and if you keep in At 40 Euro, the book is well worth the
moor off and dine ashore at one of the the well-marked channel, the depth is no investment.
many small restaurants along the riverside, problem, and large ocean-going ships use
enjoy several half bottles of Manzanilla the river. As you progress further up the The smart Club Nautica Yacht Club in
and a plate of prawns before dinner! river, the buoys are few and far between Seville is well worth a visit, although

www.oystermarine.com 55

A 10 DAY CRUISE

FACT BOX booking is essential. The other option, delightful anchorage once inside.
without lock, although you can also anchor
When to go - Seville can become in the river, is the Marina Puerto Gelves. Continuing further east, go to Huelva and
very hot in high season summer There is a very convenient bus service into book into Marina Magazon at the mouth of
months, so July and August should Seville from Puerto Gelves. We choose to the river to Huelva. Although not a lot to
be avoided if possible. stay on the pontoon outside the marina recommend it, you may recall "The Man
Club Nautica Yacht Club and, although there are not many berths, it Who Never Was”, a wartime person
Tel: +956 360 144 is cooler than inside the marina. It is a 15- dressed up as a navel officer with a
Marina Puerto Gelves minute bus ride into the very heart of briefcase locked to his wrist containing
Tel: +955 760 728 Seville with its many attractions. false details of the allied invasion of
Recommend Pilot Book - Royal Europe. His body was put ashore by
Cruising Club’s Atlantic Spain Leaving Seville, we once again made the submarine off Heulva and the Germans,
and Portugal. journey on one tide but you have to buck not knowing whether to believe the ploy or
the tide for three hours when leaving the not, sent troops to the new false location
Sistership to the Oyster marina, and we used our Genoa both of the invasion. His grave, apparently a
Heritage 37, Lady Clarinha ways whenever we could, to get that extra war grave commission responsibility, is in
knot or two. Huelva’s cemetery.
56 www.oystermarine.com
Apart from the Seville trip, take time off Further down the coast from Chipiona,
and sail up the Guadiana [the border spend time in Puerto de Santa Marina’s
between Portugal and Spain] where time superb shellfish restaurants. This was also
has virtually stood still, but choose your the main port for sherry shipments and
arrival time off the entrance to the river worthy of visits to Bodegas of Osborne
with care and make sure you can go under (Fino Quinta and Veterano Brandy) and
the new bridge. For shallow draft boats other big names. Don’t miss El Faro
only, cruise into Isleta Marina a few miles Restaurant in Puerto – no-one does it
east, which is a major fishing port with better, although jackets are required! For
excellent fish restaurants or a few miles more simple seafood, mainly shellfish, try
further east towards Huelva, enter El Romerijo’s in the main square.
Rompido. Although not an easy entrance
and only possible on a rising tide it is a Leave your yacht at the El Puerto de Santa
Marina Yacht Club and take a ten-minute
walk into town to catch the ferry to Cadiz
for the day, which is well worth the trip.
Try to arrive on a Saturday evening and
leave on Sunday, as the fishing boats
don’t run on Saturday and there is less
river movement. You can catch the ferry
to Cadiz, opposite Romerijo’s, although
you may have to walk into Cadiz as taxis
are few and far between. The Marina at
Puerto Sherry is again up and running but
requires a taxi into town, unless you have
long legs!

I hope you enjoy the delights
of Andalucia.

By Barry Sadler, Owner of
Oyster Heritage 37, Lady Clarinha

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JUST LAUNCHED

A SELECTION OF
RECENT OYSTER
LAUNCHINGS

OYSTER 56 - TEARAWAY David Hulston

After handover in Ipswich, TEARAWAY OYSTER 53 - SOUTHERN AURORA
was delivered to the Costa del Sol ready
for owners Graeme and Raquel Peterson, Owner David Hulston decided that taking
who have five young children, to sail her to delivery of his first Oyster in Auckland was
Palma, Mallorca. The Petersons are not a great opportunity to join in Oyster's New
new to sailing, having done lots of racing Zealand Regatta, watch the America’s Cup
in the past, mostly in the Clyde, but and enjoy some New Zealand cruising.
TEARAWAY is their first serious cruising With handover just days before the start of
boat and long-term plans include a the Regatta, SOUTHERN AURORA went
circumnavigation. We hope to see on to finish second in her class and overall
TEARAWAY at the 2003 UBS Oyster winner of the event! David, an Australian
regatta in Palma later this year. based in the UK, had originally intended to
ship her back to Europe but, having had
Graeme and Raquel Peterson such a great time in New Zealand, the idea
of sailing in a cold climate and the close
proximity of home was too much.
SOUTHERN AURORA was shown at the
recent Auckland boat show and will now
be heading for the Gold Coast and other
antipodean anchorages.

OYSTER 53 - SAMPHIRE OYSTER 53 - GLASS SLIPPER

Jointly owned by brothers-in-law John Having chartered for many seasons, Tom
Bebbington and Jeremy Bow, SAMPHIRE and Gretchen Carbaugh's first choice for
is another 53 built at Oyster's McDell their own yacht was the Oyster 53.
Marine yard in New Zealand and was GLASS SLIPPER was handed over last
shipped to Ipswich for commissioning and October, just in time to take part in the ARC
handover. Currently lying in Gosport, Antigua, and sailed from Lanzarote to
SAMPHIRE has already explored the Antigua, alongside her sistership, another
Channel Islands and various French ports, newly launched Oyster 53, Roger and Jo
with John and Jeremy planning to cruise Dawes Dragonfly of Upnor. GLASS
Ireland later this season. SLIPPER is currently cruising the Caribbean.

58 www.oystermarine.com

Roy Williams OYSTER 56 - ROULETTE

OYSTER 53 - FRANCES FLUTE Owned by Trevor and Ann Silver,
ROULETTE is their first Oyster. With
FRANCIS FLUTE is Roy and Deborah Trevor’s civil engineering background,
Williams' second Oyster, having previously Oyster's Project Manager, Jean–Pierre
owned an Oyster Lightwave 48. FRANCES Cardin says that project meetings were
FLUTE was shipped from New Zealand to never boring and that Trevor has made
Savannah, Georgia in the USA where she sure there is plenty of equipment on
was handed over by Oyster's experienced board to make his guest's visits more
commissioning team from the UK and USA than enjoyable. ROULETTE comes with
offices. Their first season afloat was spent full air-conditioning, heating, watermaker
exploring the beautiful Chesapeake area and an audio and visual system that will
on the east coast of America before ensure you never want to leave the boat!
heading south to the Caribbean for the Anne’s interior design influence has
winter and spring season. resulted in a beautiful boat with many
design details to really make it theirs.
ROULETTE is currently based in Antibes
and will be cruising the Mediterranean,
before joining the 2003 ARC.

Oyster 53 Southern Aurora, overall winner Oyster 56, Roulette has a stunning maple interior
of the Oyster New Zealand Regatta www.oystermarine.com 59

Tom and Gretchen Carbaugh

The World's Your Oyster

45/47 Deck Saloon 53 Deck Saloon 62 Deck Saloon New69 Fast Track New 82 High Level
49 Deck Saloon 56 Deck Saloon Deck Saloon

66 High Level New 72 Deck Saloon New100 High Level
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OYSTER

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