FULL DOCUMENT_ISSUU

SPRING / SUMMER 2017



GLOBAL
FORECAST

FABRIC
Spring / Summer 2017

This season, fabric will span a full spectrum from the most opulent maximalism to the
most natural minimalism. It is through this lens that we’ve curated our Seasonal Global

Forecast - showcasing the top fabric priorities for SS17.

D E L I C AT E

Delicate lace in mercerised cottons or silks, fashioned in over-embroidered lace on netting,
broderie anglaise, and filigree openwork. Mixing patterns and placed applications feel newest.
Vintage whites, creamy neutrals, and pastel tones are key. Sheer chiffons and organzas become
ultra feminine when delivered in frothy ruffles and pretty prints. Chintz overlays and burnouts

infuse tonal patterns.

DELICATE LACE + NETTING
EYELET + BRODERIE ANGLAISE
SHEERS: CHIFFON / ORGANZA / OVERLAYS + BURNOUTS

STRUCTURE

Refined suitings, compact weaves, and bold shirtings mark a modern return to classics. Textural
hatching updates jacquards and knits, utilizing jaspe yarns and striated slubs for subtle textural
variation. Lightweight shirting, blouse and dress-weights make a statement and are ultra mod-
ern in stretch iterations. Wovens and leathers are architectural in caged laser-cut construc-

tions.

SHIRTING: BOLD PLAINS + DECONSTRUCTED
LEATHER: SOFT LAMB AND CAGED

CLASSIC WEAVES: COMPACT, HATCHED, TWEEDED

N AT U R A L

Undyed, untreated and unfinished fabrics offer a simple authenticity for SS17. Lightweight
micro-waffle or basket-weave textures are key, along with randomly slubbed cotton, linen and
chambray textures for a refined yet relaxed look. Fiberous indigos and linens inspire yarn dyes,
along with ultra dry handfeels in sandy crepes, shot linens, ramies and over-twisted yarns. Blis-
tered, crinkled and sueded surfaces elevate basic blends. Crafted basketweaves, macrame, and
cotton crochet are directional for sweaters and knit details. Sturdy utilitarian plain weaves are

key for bottoms and layering.

FIBEROUS: LINENS + INDIGOS
TEXTURED: WASHED/CRINKLED/SUEDED
CRAFTED: MACRAME/CROCHET/BASKETWEAVES

SPORT

Technical and performance features include slick and sateen finishes, spandex blends, second
skin weights, and new textures. Nano-textures in pique, mesh, and perforation are key. Com-
pact constructions and slick finishes elevate otherwise basic wovens. Play with extreme textures
and juxtapositions through bold three-dimensional relief constructions contrasted with ultra
lightweight plain-weaves and scubas. PU coatings elevate otherwise basic twills. Mesh and per-

forated textures remain key, especially in knits and sweaters.

SPORTY KNITS: RIBS, MESH, + MICRO PIQUES
STRETCH WOVENS: MATTE TAFETTAS, POPLINS, AND SCUBA

SLICK FINISHES: SATIN NYLON, PU COATED

OPULENT

Infuse glamour into everyday dressing with colorful jacquards, metallic lame, all-over sequins,
pearlized sheens, and iridescent striping. Summer suedes and velvets add rich textures in out-
erwear and accents. Eclectic influences from old world europe to the far east inspire intricate

patterns and constructions.

JACQUARDS + SATINS
SEQUINS + LAME
VELVET + SUEDE

DENIM

Utilitarian influences are most directional for denim washes with mid-blue and classic dark in-
digo washes feeling right for Spring. Undyed yarns as well as bleached out washes are important

to infuse for summer timing and are again workwear influenced.

90s BLUES
WHITE / NATURAL / BLEACHED

RAW/SELVEDGE



GLOBAL
FORECAST

COLOR
Spring / Summer 2017

GRAY MAKES WAY FOR SANDY BEIGE
NATURAL YELLOWS REPLACE ACIDIC HUES

RICH EXOTICS AND VEGETAL UTILITY
RANGE OF WORKWEAR BLUES
MINTY FRESH GREENS

THE RANGE

WARM BEIGES NATURAL YELLOWS UTILITY NEUTRALS

SS 17 SS 17 SS 17

SS 16 FW 16/17 SS 16 FW 16/17 SS 16 FW 16/17

THE EVOLUTION

DEEP REDS VARIED BLUES MINT GREENS

SS 17 SS 17 SS 17

SS 16 FW 16/17 SS 16 FW 16/17 SS 16 FW 16/17



UMBRELLA
TRENDS

Spring / Summer 2017

MODERNIST

WHY
The retro trend of the 1960s and 1970s we have seen over the past several seasons is evolving toward a more
minimal aesthetic. Mid-Century modern architectural influences are key: structured silhouettes with simple, clean
lines and hardwearing fabrics that indicate a new shift toward investment pieces with longevity. Iconic details that

are at times bold or unconventional infuse infuse newness.
KEY ATTRIBUTES

Hardware doubles as embellishment
Lounge + activewear smarten up - a nod to flexible work/home lifestyles.

Shapes are archictectural, simplified or deconstructed
Elevated utililitarian

TREND CADENCE
C1 - Odyssey, Construct // C2 - Outback

MODERNIS T // Cultural Influences

PAULINE DELTOUR

This French-born product designer produces
objects that are beautiful, abstract and function-
al for clients such as Alessi and Muji.

NACHO ALLEGRE

The Spanish photographer and Apartamen-
to co-founder recently begun documenting
his travels for Vogue.com, and the new series
depicts modern and amazingly inspiring archi-
tectural icons.

JACQUEMUS

This French brand’s sculptural and modernist
designs feature surprising and bold details that
still remain wearable.

WILD

WHY
We want to get close to nature again. As we play out our lives in the digital space, the desire for wildness will deepen

as we crave more fulfilling and human connections. To escape into the landscape and into the Earth will become
the new and ultimate luxury. Getting back to nature to recharge ourselves has never been more important. We
recognize this importance and how it is intrinsically linked to the need for simplicity - to have less and live more - as

this creates the space for nature in our lives.
KEY ATTRIBUTES

Raw + natural textures - unraveled, frayed, blistered, crinkled
Simple and multi-functional

Wrapped, tied, paper-bag waists
Soft utility

STORYTELLING CADENCE
C1 - Coastal // C2 - Island, Outback

WILD // Cultural Influences

INTO THE WOODS
FESTIVAL

The UK-based Laurel Collective and friends
send music lovers into the wild, putting on their
very special one day festival in an enchanted
secret woodland location, just one hour south of
London.

CABIN PORN

This blog captures images of remote cabins
from around the world and provides ‘inspiration
for your quiet place somewhere.’ Created by
a group of friends in Upstate New York, Cabin
Porn began as a scrapbook to collect inspira-
tion for their building projects. As the collection
grew, the site attracted a huge and obsessive
following.

WILDERNESS COLLECTIVE

The Men’s magazine that travels to rarely trav-
elled places says that ‘wilderness makes you
better’. Of course fresh air isn’t new but is it
perhaps becoming the new luxury?

OPULENT

WHY
A rediscovery of opulent maximlaism is reflected in design as we see a shift toward a more robust economy and
confident consumer spending. For the first time in years, we are spending more on clothes and actually buying less
than ever before. Our tastes are becoming more diverse and increasingly sophisticated - thus defining a growing
luxury middle market, seeking out lesser-known premium brands to connect with culturally, socially and emotionally.

KEY ATTRIBUTES
Metallic jacquards, crushed velvets and suede infuse rich textures for Spring

Romantic boudoir influences are relaxed + luxe
Sheers, layered lace, and maximal embellishments
Strong inspiration from interiors and furnishings continues

STORYTELLING CADENCE
C1 - Atelier // C2 - Indochine

OPULENT // Cultural Influences

MAIYET

Appealing to affluent Millennials, Maiyet cre-
ates conscious couture by partnering with global
artisans to incorporate exquisitely handcrafted
details into their collections.

ALESSANDRO MICHELE

Michele could not be further removed from his
Gucci predecessor - the sleekly controlled and
understated Frida Gianinni. And we like it that
way.

THE IT BAG

On the catwalks is the resurgence of the It bag
– among them the Anya Hindmarch 18-carat
yellow gold clutch bag that retails for £60,000.



SEASONAL
TRENDS

Spring / Summer 2017

C O N S T R U C T MODERNIST • TAILORED • ARCHITECTURAL • SOPHISTICATED

MOOD

Urban architectural influenc-
es in a minimal palette of of
industrial pastels. Inspired by
the Bauhaus + Brutalist archi-
tectual movements of the mid-
20th century as well as 1990s
Japenese deconstructionism.

KEY ATTRIBUTES

DETAILS

• Colorblocking
• Structured tailoring
• Architectural hardware
• Deconstruction
• Sculptural pleats + cut-outs

PRINT + PATTERN
• Mismatched + Diagonal stripes
• Windowpane + Checks
• Modernist curvilinear
• Bauhaus movement
• Colorblock

FABRIC
• Crisp poplin / shirting
• Fluid linens
• Compact weaves + ponte
• Soft nappa leathers

runway // proenza schouler, jil sander, celine, gabrielle colangelo, phillip lim, joseph, jacquemus, roksanda ilincic

CONS TRUC T // Art direction

STYLIZED GEOMETRIC / MOD DOTS / BAUHAUS

OPPOSING STRIPES + GRIDS BOLD COLORBLOCK

O DY S S E Y MODERNIST • NAUTICAL • GRAPHIC • GRECIAN

MOOD

Modern art + archetectural
influences meet seaside style.
Graphic Grecian insfluences
with a nod to 1960s space age.
Classic maritime black, white,
+ cerulean pair beautifully with
metallic, aqua + coral accents.

KEY ATTRIBUTES

DETAILS

• Oversized grommets
• Wrapped, tied, laced-up
• Modernist shapes
• Maritime buttons
• Trapeze, flared, belled

PRINT + PATTERN
• Graphic Grecian inspired
• Maritime stripes and borders
• Memphis movement
• Modernist art prints/collage
• Seaside neats

FABRIC
• Poplin / shirting
• Compact weaves / knits
• Sport inspired knits
• Modernist art prints/collage
• Seaside neats

runways // sportmax, courreges, max mara, jacquemus, ellery, carven, hermes, anya hindmarch

ODYSSE Y // Art Direction

GRECIAN GEO MODERNIST WAVES

MARITIME STARS + STRIPES

CO A S TA L NATURAL • MINIMAL • SOFT • MODERN

MOOD

We seek freedom + adventure
in Big Sur, where sophistated
style meets the rugged beau-
ty of the Pacific coastline. By
editing down to what is most
beautiful and useful, we also
define a new luxury.

KEY ATTRIBUTES

DETAILS

• Wrapped, draped, + tied
• Relaxed, beachy vibe
• Rope, openwork, netting
• Paired-down feminitiy
• Soft micro-pleats + gathers

PRINT + PATTERN

• French linen + awning stripes
• Seaside shibori
• Indigo Madras
• Textural stripes

FABRIC

• Fiberous linens + indigos
• Crinkled, blistered, cracked
• Utilitarian plains + shirting
• Crochet, macrame, netting
• Ramie, overtwisted yarns
• Microwaffles, basketweaves

runways // joseph, altuzarra, osklen, max mara, sportmax, stella mccartney, greg lauren

COA S TAL // Art direction

SUMMER STRIPES / MADRAS

SEASIDE SHIBORI TEXTURAL STRIPES

AT E L I E R OPULENT • ROMANTIC • NEO-CLASSICAL •SOPHISTICATED

MOOD

We are inspired by the design-
er’s studio - the opulent fabrics
+ trims the draped forms, the
artistic muses - and all that
surrounds the work of making
something beautiful.

KEY ATTRIBUTES

DETAILS
• Draped
• Embellished netting
• Modern + minimal shapes
• Luxe textures
• New 90s sensibility

PRINT + PATTERN
• Furnishing florals + chintz
• Stucco / filagre inspired
• Wallpaper scrolls
• Marble / Architectural

FABRIC
• Delicate lace + tuille
• Chiffon + organza
• Velvet
• Charmeuse
• Metallic wovens/jacquards

runway // alexander mcquen, givenchy, balenciaga, philosophy di lorenzo serafini, alexander wang

ALTELIER // Art direction

ILLUSTRATED FLORAL

FURNISHINGS PRETTY BURNOUT

O U T B A C K SMART • EXOTIC • UTILITARIAN • CASUAL GLAM

MOOD

We dream of a sartorial safari
and head to Australia for some
serious cool hunting. A daytrip
deep into the Outback reminds
us yet again that reconnect-
ing with nature - while looking
smart - is the ultimate luxury.

KEY ATTRIBUTES

DETAILS

• Tailored + Modernist shapes
• Minimal utility
• Wrapped and laced-up details
• Structured paired with casual
• Smart 1970s sensability

PRINT + PATTERN
• Modern camo
• Graphic + ethnic striping
• Enlarged animal prints
• Botanicals + Batiks
• Safari conversationals

FABRIC
• Compact twills + basketweaves
• Ramie + linen blends
• Summer suede
• Indigo
• Sporty satins + gabardines

runway // jill stuart, botega venetta, fendi, balmain, mulgur, phillip lim

OUTBACK // Art direction

SOFT BOTANICAL

GRAPHIC GEO / ABSTRACT ANIMAL NEUTRAL TEXTURES

I N D O C H I N E OPULENT • EXOTIC • ROMANTIC • LAYERED

MOOD

We travel to Vietnam’s French
Quarter where tropical + far
eastern opulence, vintage bou-
doir dressing, and soft suiting
layer together for a new and
refined take on gypset style.

KEY ATTRIBUTES

DETAILS
• Layered + wraped styling
• Opulent fabrics
• Lace insets / Boudoir details
• Feminine meets masculine
• East meets West

PRINT + PATTERN
• Botanical leaves
• Chinoiserie + Deco interiors
• Metallic jacquards
• Tropical floral / bird of paradise

FABRIC
• Jacquard, satin, charmeuse
• Embellished, metallic wovens
• Faille + textured silks
• Lyocell, sandwashed
• Chiffon

runways // gucci, jonathan saunders, valentino (PF16), mcqueen (PF16), vionnet (PF16), mary katrantzou PF16)

INDOCHINE // Art direction

RICH BOTANICALS / JACQUARDS

SOFT DECO / LATTICE CHINOISERIE / EASTERN LUXE

I S L A N D TROPICAL • RELAXED • CASTAWAY • LUSH

MOOD

We go island hopping across
the globe in search of perfect
beaches, hidden lagoons, and
breathtaking vistas. Polynesian
inspired prints in a rainbow
palette of lush greens, bright
corals, mango and turquoise.

KEY ATTRIBUTES

DETAILS

• Beachy off-the-shoulder
• Relaxed flounces
• Printed patchwork
• Smocking
• Maxi + Mini hemlines

PRINT + PATTERN

• Tropical - layered + patchwork
• Botanical woodblock
• Beachy striping + tie-dye
• Tropical conversationals

FABRIC

• Pleated + crinkled
• Linen + gauze blends
• Crochet + Macrame
• Printed chiffon + georgette
• Airy silks + voiles

runways // chloe, temperley, gucci, paul + joe, anna sui, mara hoffman

ISL AND // Art direction

TROPICAL MIX - LAYERED + PATCHWORK

BEACHY STRIPES + TIE-DYE ISLAND BOHEMIAN



THE TREND
CURVE

Spring / Summer 2017

THE TREND CURVE // CALL TO ACTION SS17

EMERGING = TEST BUILDING = CHASE MAINSTREAM = MAXIMIZE DECLINING = MONITOR OUTGOING = EXIT

VOLUMINOUS DENIM SLIP DRESS* ROMANTIC MAXI* WOVEN TEE SKINNY PANT / JEAN
CROSSOVER TOP BOMBER JACKET* MIDI SKIRT/DRESS* UTILITY BLOUSE SWEATSHIRT / DRESS
MICRO TOP WIDE LEG TROUSER* BOYFRIEND DENIM BOYFRIEND SWEATER
LONGLINE BLAZER DECONSTRUCTED SHIRT* POET BLOUSE* CLASSIC MOTO CIRCLE SKIRT / DRESS
PARKA COLUMN DRESS / SKIRT FLOUNCE TOP* RACER FRONT DRESS
DECONSTRUCTED DECONSTRUCTED MINI OFF THE SHOULDER* KIMONO
SLEEVELESS COAT* JOGGER PANT
ROBE / JUDO JACKET CULOTTE DUSTER/LONG LAYERING
VOLUME TRAPEZE TOP/DRESS FLARE CROP THE CHASM JUMPSUIT / ALL-IN-ONE
BOXY JACKET MATCHED SET
PRAIRIE WESTERN PINAFORE / OVERALL CLASSIC JEAN
SOFT SUITING PAJAMA DRESSING
ASYMMETRIC SKIRT A-LINE
TUNIC LAYERING

FIT + FLARE

* INDICATES TOP 10 ITEM

TAKE ACTION NOW // TOP 10 MUST-HAVE ITEMS

1. ROMANTIC MAXI
2. WIDE LEG TROUSER

TAKE ACTION NOW // TOP 10 MUST-HAVE ITEMS

3. SLIP DRESS
4. OFF THE SHOULDER
5. MIDI SKIRT / DRESS
6. DECONSTRUCTED SHIRT

TAKE ACTION NOW // TOP 10 MUST-HAVE ITEMS

7. BOMBER JACKET
8. POET BLOUSE
9. FLOUNCE TOP

10. SLEEVELESS JACKET