Coffee Obsession

AS TINY POCKETS OF AIR AND MILK MATTERS 49
STEAM ARE ADDED TO THE
MILK, YOU WILL HEAR GENTLE, TIP
CONTROLLED SLURPING NOISES
If you don’t want to waste a
lot of milk to practice on, you can

use water with a small drop of
dishwashing liquid to mimic the
process until you’re comfortable
with the concept of adding air

and spinning the milk in
a controlled manner.

3 Hold the pitcher 4 If you’re right-handed, 5 The direction of the steam pressure
level and upright. hold the handle of the should push the milk around in
Position the steam pitcher in your right hand circles. The longer you maintain the
arm inside the pitcher and use your left to turn the slurping noise, the more foam you will
at an angle, slightly steam on. Don’t hesitate to generate. As the foam increases, it acts
off-center but not turn it up quite high. If you as a sound buffer and reduces the noise.
touching the sides. don’t use enough steam As the noise gets gentler, the bubbles
The nozzle should be pressure, you won’t create get smaller creating a denser foam.
only just submerged. any bubbles and the milk
will make a loud, screeching TECHNIQUE CONTINUES
sound. Move your left hand
to the bottom of the steam
pitcher. It will now function
as your temperature gauge.

50 COFFEE KNOW–HOW

STEAMING (continued)

TIP

Milk will taste sweet
and can be enjoyed
immediately when it is
steamed to about 140–150°F
(60–65°C). Any higher
than that may result
in a boiled oatmeal-

like taste.

6 As the milk warms, it 7 Add air only while 8 Swirl the milk until the bottom
expands and rises up the milk is still cold. of the pitcher becomes too hot to
above the nozzle, cutting Once you feel the base touch. Move your left hand away, give
off the air. For lots of foam, of the pitcher reach body the process another 3 seconds, and turn
lower the pitcher so the temperature, stop adding the steam off. This should result in milk
nozzle remains at the surface. air—any bubbles formed at about 140–150°F (60–65°C). If you
For less, let the milk rise beyond about 99°F (37°C) hear a deep, rumbling noise, you are
above the nozzle. Maintain are harder to mix into a boiling the milk and it will taste eggy
the swirling of the liquid smooth foam. If you add or oatmeal-like, not ideal for coffee.
and beat the big bubbles into air in as soon as the steam
smaller bubbles to create is switched on, you should
a smoother, denser foam. have plenty of time to
create as much foam
as you’d like.

MILK MATTERS 51

STORING MILK

As long as the milk is fresh, it will produce
foam with the right steaming technique.
Even if the milk is within its “best before”
date, the vital foam-stabilizing proteins
may have degenerated to the point where
they will struggle to aid in the formation of
bubbles, so always go for milk with the most
shelf-life left. Daylight is also damaging,
so buy your milk in an opaque container,
and keep refrigerated between use.

9 Set the pitcher down 1 0 Once the big bubbles 1 1 By swirling to keep the
to the side. Use a stop appearing, swirl milk and foam mixed right
damp cloth to clean the the milk around in the up until the point where you pour
steam wand, and purge pitcher until you achieve a it into your cup, you will not need
for a few seconds into the glossy, shiny texture of milk a spoon to get the foam out, and
cloth to ensure that any and foam combined. If you with some practice, you will also
milk residue on the inside are left with an “island” of be able to create latte art.
of the wand is expelled. If dry foam floating around in
there are any big bubbles the middle, gently slosh the
on the surface of the milk, milk from side to side to try
a few seconds of rest will to incorporate it, then swirl
weaken them. Gently tap again in a circular motion.
the jug on the countertop
to burst them.

TIP

There is no need to move
the milk pitcher vigorously
at any stage. The force and
direction of the steam should
do all the work, so just keep a
steady position and controlled

angle of the steam arm
and pitcher.

52 COFFEE KNOW–HOW

LATTE ART

Your milk must be smooth and have a dense foam, but it should look beautiful, too!
Latte art takes practice, but once mastered, it’ll spruce up a cup of coffee. Many
designs start with a basic heart, so start with that and see where it takes you.

HEART

This design suits a slightly
thicker layer of milk foam
and so is a good choice to
try on cappuccinos.

2 Once the cup is about
half full, quickly lower
the pitcher down to the cup
while maintaining your
pour and its position in the
middle. You should see a
circle of milky foam start
to spread out into the cup.

1 Start by pouring the 3 When the cup is nearly full,
steamed milk into the lift your pitcher back up and
middle of the crema from pour a line through the circle,
about 2in (5cm) above the allowing the flow of the milk to
cup, letting the crema rise pull it out into a heart shape.
and stretch the “canvas.”

MILK MATTERS 53

POURING LIKE A PRO

If you pour milk from too great a height, it lifts won’t get the movement you need to create a
up the crema, leaving very little white on the pattern; if too fast, the crema and milk will mix
surface. Conversely, if you pour the milk when uncontrollably. Practice pouring from a 16fl oz
your pitcher is too close to the cup, it drowns the (500ml) pitcher into a large cup, until you find
crema in white foam. If you pour too slowly, you the perfect balance between height and speed.

ROSETTA

Often seen on caffè lattes
and flat whites, the rosetta
works best with a slightly
thinner foam.

2 Let the flow of milk
spill out in a zigzag-
like pattern. When your
cup is nearly full, start
moving the pitcher
backward to create
increasingly smaller
zigzag shapes.

1 Follow step 1 for the 3 When you have finished
heart, opposite, then creating your zigzags,
once the cup is about half pour a line straight down
full, quickly lower the pitcher the middle to finish, holding
down to the cup. Start your pitcher from a little
rocking it gently from side to more height.
side in a “tick tock” motion.

54 COFFEE KNOW–HOW TIP

SWIRL THE JUG CONTINUOUSLY, As well as free-pouring
RIGHT UP TO THE POINT OF latte art designs like the heart,
POURING, TO KEEP THE FOAM rosetta, and tulip, some enjoy
AND MILK FROM SEPARATING etching. This involves creating
designs, such as chasing hearts
(pictured, far left), by pulling

a thin utensil through
dollops of milk foam.

TULIP

The tulip is an advanced
version of the heart (see
p52) that uses a stop-
and-start technique.

1 Start as you would for 2 Stop your pour
the heart, pouring a and start again 1⁄2in
small circle of white into (1cm) behind the first
the middle of the cup. pour, carefully moving the
pitcher forward as the
foam comes out, pushing
the first circle forward
and out to the sides
in a crescent shape.

3 Repeat until you have as many
“leaves” as you would like.
Finish with a small heart on top,
pulling the line down through
the leaves to create the stem.

ELABORATE Adapt the basic designs

to create (clockwise from top left): multi-
tulips, chasing hearts, swans, rosetta hearts.



COFFEES OF THE WORLD

AFRICA

58 COFFEES OF THE WORLD

ETHIOPIA

The complex mix of species and varieties that are
native to Ethiopia gives these coffees their potential
for unique flavors. They are famed for unusually distinct
and elegant floral, herbal, and citrus notes.

Ethiopia is often hailed as the Ethiopia has a biodiversity of UNRIPE COFFEE CHERRIES
birthplace of Arabica coffee, species and varieties that is not When ripened (see pp16–17),
although recent studies indicate that found elsewhere, with many yet coffee cherries are picked once,
South Sudan may also have the right to be identified. Due to the mix twice, or three times a week.
to claim this title. Ethiopia doesn’t of Heirloom varieties grown—such
have a lot of coffee farms—they are as Moka and Geisha—coffee beans
either referred to as garden, forest, from Ethiopia often lack uniformity
semi-forest, or plantation—but in size and shape.
around 15 million people are
involved in the coffee-production Climate change is eradicating wild
process, from picking to export. species of coffee trees that may hold
Coffee grows wild, produced largely genetic keys to coffee’s survival. The
by subsistence farmers, who sell huge genetic range of local Heirloom
it only for a few months every year. varieties will be key to securing the
future of coffee worldwide.

ETHIOPIAN COFFEE KEY FACTS

PERCENTAGE HARVEST:
OF WORLD
OCTOBER–DECEMBER
5%MARKET:

MAIN TYPES: PROCESSES:

ARABICA WASHED AND NATURAL
NATIVE HEIRLOOM PRODUCTION IN 2012:

8 MILLION BAGSVARIETIES

WORLD RANKING 5th LARGEST COFFEE PRODUCER
AS A PRODUCER:

IN THE WORLD

AFRICA 59

LEKEMPTI, ERITREA Washed HeirloomSe AFRICA
WELLEGA, When sorted, shipped,Red
AND GIMBI TIGRAY and roasted well, the flavor LIMU AND
of Ethiopian Heirlooms is DJIMMAH
These areas produce both unlike any other.
washed and naturally Coffee from this area is
processed coffees. The a normally exported as
best selections are often “Limu” if washed, and
fuller in texture, sweeter, “Djimmah” if naturally
and wilder tasting than processed. Generally
Sidamos and Yirgacheffes. milder than the coffees
from Sidamo, there is
SUDAN Danakil Dese still a wide range of
qualities available here.
Lake rt DJIBOUTI
Tana Natural Heirloom
AMARA AFAR Gulf of Well-dried, naturally
Bahir Dar Aden processed Ethiopian
coffees have an almost
BINSHANGUL E T H I O P IA tropical fruit-like flavor.
GUMUZ
Dire Dawa SOMALIA
LEKEMPTI, Ethiopian Grea HARAR
WELLEGA, Highlands Val l e y ARSI Ripening coffee cherries
BALE Not all cherries ripen at once,
& GIMBI so pickers choose them by eye.

SOUTH LIMU HARAR
SUDAN
GUJI ADDIS ABABA This region is dry, hot,
GAMBELA ILLUBABOR and almost desertlike.
HIZBOCH OROMO Rift Coffee produced here
t SUMALE often has an earthy
AMARO flavor. The most prized
DJIMMAH beans have blueberry
and fruity flavors, and
KAMBATA nearly all Harar coffee
is naturally processed.
WELAYTA

KAFFA Lake YIRGACHEFFE
OROMIYA
TEPI SOUTHERN Abaya
SIDAMO
BEBEKA
BORENA

Washed Geisha K E N YA Washed Moka
Local Geishas have An unusual Heirloom
floral, elegant flavors. SIDAMO variety, Moka beans
are small and round.
KEY The lush and green Sidamo
area is varied in landscape. YIRGACHEFFE
NOTABLE COFFEE- It produces coffees with
PRODUCING REGIONS a wide range of complex This small area within the Sidamo
flavors—sometimes fruity region grows some of the finest
AREA OF PRODUCTION and citrus, sometimes Ethiopian coffees. They often have
nutty and herbal. bright lemony notes and floral
0 km 200 characteristics, with a light texture
and a well-balanced sweetness.
0 miles 200

60 COFFEES OF THE WORLD

KENYA

Kenya offers some of the most intensely aromatic, brightly
acidic coffees in the world. Flavors from region to region
vary subtly, but most feature uniquely complex fruit and
berry notes, citrus acidity, and juicy, rich textures.

Only around 330 farms in Kenya pp20–21); usually any smaller CHARACTERISTIC RED SOIL
are estates of 37 acres (15 hectares) selections of naturally processed Kenya’s aluminum and iron-rich
or more. Just over half of the coffee coffee cherries are consumed in red clay soil contributes to the
producers are smallholders with Kenya. Once processed, most of the unique flavor of its coffee.
only a couple of acres of land each. coffee beans are traded via a weekly
These smallholders are grouped auction system, where exporters bid
into factories that belong to on samples they tasted the previous
cooperative societies, each factory week. Although this is still susceptible
receiving coffee cherries from to swings of the commodity market,
hundreds, to even a couple of prices at the auction reward the
thousand, producers. best-quality coffees and thus provide
incentives for producers to improve
Kenya grows Arabica, specifically agricultural practices and the quality
SL, K7, and Ruiru varieties. Most of their coffee.
beans are washed for export (see

KENYAN COFFEE KEY FACTS

PERCENTAGE
OF WORLD

0.5%MARKET:
LESS THAN

E
MAIN TYPES: HARVEST:

ARABICA MAIN CROP

OCTOBER–DECEMBER

SMALL “FLY” CROP

APRIL–JUNE

SL 28, SL 34, K7, PROCESSES: LOCAL
RUIRU 11, BATIAN
WASHED, SOME Kenyans are studying
NATURAL PROCESS
a large quantity of wild
WORLD RANKING T
Arabica trees as well as smaller
22nd LARGEST COFFEEASAPRODUCER:
PRODUCER IN THE WORLD numbers of eight other wild

Rubiaceae species that have

been found in the

E C H N I QUMarsabit forest.

AFRICA 61

SOUTH Washed AA MARSABIT
SUDAN Kenyan coffee beans are graded
by size. AA is the largest and, Marsabit doesn’t grow enough
often, the most complex. coffee to export, but it is the
only area in Kenya where wild
Rubiaceae has been found. AFRICA
The study and conservation
of the coffee gene pool in
these forests will benefit
coffee all over the world.

Lake Chalbi ETHIOPIA MERU
Turkana Desert
Awara Plain On the eastern hills of
EASTERN Mount Kenya, Meru has
rich organic soils and
MARSABIT moderate rainfall that
sustain the growth of
K7 and SL varieties.

Wo y a m d e r o
Plain
GANDA
RIFT VALLEY
Great Rift Valley
TRANS-NZOIA K MERU NORTH
SOMALIAEASTERN
U NAKURU NYERI ENYA
Ngangerabeli
BUNGOMA KIRINYAGA Plain
WESTERN

Kisumu

Lake ABERDARE
CENTRAL EMBU
Victoria NYANZA Washed SL 28
KISII and SL 34
Most Kenyan
MURUNGA beans are washed.
NAIROBI A sign of this is the
center, or “chaff”
MACHAKOS that remains pale
when roasted.
Ya tta Pla tea
NYERI u COAST KIRINYAGA

Dominated by factories and TAITA INDIAN On the slopes of Mount
cooperative societies and noted TAVETA OCEAN Kenya, the altitudes and
for modest rainfall, the areas twice-yearly rainy season
around Nyeri are famed for TANZANIA Mombasa of Kirinyaga are perfect
their high-quality beans, for quality coffee. The
largely of the SL varieties. most common varieties
here are SL 28 and SL 34.
KEY
EMBU
NOTABLE COFFEE-
PRODUCING REGIONS With deep, red volcanic soils and
two distinct rainy seasons, Embu is
AREA OF PRODUCTION dominated by factories and societies
that grow a mix of varieties.
0 km 150 Washed SL 28 and SL 34 AA
Kenyan AA selections should
0 miles 150 look uniform and defect-free:
not broken, faded, or discolored.

62 COFFEES OF THE WORLD

TANZANIA

Flavors of Tanzanian coffee can be split between the
heavy-bodied, sweet, naturally processed Robustas
and Arabicas near Lake Victoria, and the bright, citrus,
berry-like washed Arabicas of the rest of the country.

Coffee was introduced to Tanzania by Almost all of the beans are grown by CHERRY RIPENING
Catholic missionaries in 1898. Today, smallholders on family farms. About Cherries ripen at different speeds.
Tanzania grows some Robusta, but 450,000 families are involved in coffee Pickers return to the same tree
the majority of the crop is Arabica— growing, and the industry as a whole several times to collect ripe ones.
Bourbon, Kent, Nyassa, and the employs around 2.5 million people.
famous Blue Mountain. It is prone
to wild swings in production, from As with some other African
534,000 bags in 2011 to over countries, the coffee is sold at auction,
1 million bags in 2012. Around 20 but there is a “direct” window open
percent of Tanzania’s export earnings for buyers who wish to buy from the
come from coffee. Yield of fruit per exporters themselves. This window
tree is low, adding to other growing allows higher-quality coffee to be
challenges, such as low prices and a rewarded with higher prices, creating
lack of training and equipment. a sustainable cycle of production
in the long term.

TANZANIAN COFFEE KEY FACTS

PERCENTAGE HARVEST:
OF WORLD
ARABICA JULY–FEBRUARY
0.6%MARKET: ROBUSTA APRIL–DECEMBER
MAIN TYPES:

70% ARABICA PROCESSES:
BOURBON, KENT, NYASSA, ARABICA WASHED
BLUE MOUNTAIN ROBUSTA NATURAL

30% ROBUSTA

WORLD RANKING 18th LARGEST COFFEE PRODUCER
AS A PRODUCER:

IN THE WORLD

AFRICA 63

AFRICA KAGERA AND BUKOBA KILIMANJARO
AND ARUSHA
These areas to the very northwest,
along Lake Victoria, produce The growers around the highlands
Tanzania’s Robusta coffee, which of Mount Kilimanjaro have the
is mostly naturally processed and volcanic soil and high altitude
accounts for about 25 percent of needed for producing some of
Tanzania’s total coffee production. the best East African coffees.

UGANDA Lake Victoria K E N YA Natural Robusta
Tanzanian Robustas are
BUKOBA MARA small and round, with
a straight center cut.
Some have pointy tips.

RWANDA

KAGERA Mwanza Serengeti
MWANZA Plain

BURUNDI ARUSHA KILIMANJARO Robusta tree

SHINYANGA Young Robusta trees grow under

sunlight in Tanzania, displaying

D KIGOMA Masai Steppe their large, broad leaves.
USAMBA MOUNTAINS
E

Lak Kigoma
M.
MANYARA Tanga USAMBA

eRTEanPg. aCnyOikNaG Great TABORA

TANZANIA TANGA MOUNTAINS

SINGIDA DODOMA These mountains are
DODOMA part of the Eastern
Zanzibar Arc. Two new species

RUKWA of coffee were
recently found here,
O ift Dar es Salaam bringing the total
R
PWANI number of wild

MBEYA Mafia Tanzanian coffee

l species to sixteen—
a
V MOROGORO an excellent

IRINGA discovery for study
and conservation.
le LINDI
ZAMBIA y INDIAN OCEAN

Bourbon, Kent, Lake Nyasa
M A L AW I
Blue Mountain

A mix of key RUVUMA

Tanzanian varieties MTWARA
lends complexity

to coffee flavors. MBINGA Washed Kent
KEY Kent is an Indian variety, now
MBEYA M O Z A M B I Q U E planted throughout Tanzania.
NOTABLE COFFEE-
PRODUCING REGIONS This up-and-coming region is being RUVUMA AND MBINGA

AREA OF PRODUCTION

0 km 200 driven forward by a younger generation The southern highlands have been
of growers who are producing much of growing coffee for less than 50 years,

0 miles 200 the coffee from the region. and have a lot of potential for expansion.

64 COFFEES OF THE WORLD

RWANDA NORTHERN PROVINCE

The coffees from Rwanda are often some of the The citrus, stone fruit, and
softest, sweetest, and most floral of East African caramel tones of the coffees
coffees—delicately balanced and rapidly winning from the south of the Northern
Province make these coffees
balanced and sweet.

UGANDA

the hearts of coffee lovers worldwide. DEM. REP.

The first coffee trees in Rwanda were planted CONGO BURERA
in 1904, and export began around 1917. The VMirouunngtaains MUSANZE
high altitudes and steady rainfalls mean V
a
the potential for quality is very high. ll RUBAVU NYABIHU RULINDO
About half of the country’s export e Gisenyi
y GAKENKE
revenue now comes from the coffee
industry, so coffee has recently become NORTHERN
a vehicle for the government to improve PROVINCE
socio-economic conditions. There has
been an explosion in the number of RWANDA

washing stations built throughout Rift RUTSIRO NGORORERO
the country, giving the 500,000
smallholdings easier access to NYARUGENGE

resources and training. Lake MUHANGA KAMONYI
Kivu
One of the challenges for
WESTERN KARONGI
Rwandan coffee is the “potato” PROVINCE Gitarama

defect—a bacteria that can cause at Central Plateau

the occasional bean to smell and SOUTHERN
RUHANGO PROVINCE
taste like raw potato. However, the

dominance of old Bourbon Gre
trees and the combination
of high altitudes and

rich soil ensure that NYANZA

Rwandan beans are

still some of the best NYAMASHEKE NYAMAGABE
on the market.

Cyangugu

RUSIZI HUYE

WESTERN PROVINCE Washed Bourbon KIVU Butare
Light-roasted Rwandan NYARUGURU GISAGARA
The districts along Lake Kivu coffees have enticingly
are home to some of the most sweet aromas. BURUNDI
famed washing stations in
Rwanda, consistently producing
complex, floral, elegant, juicy
coffees of the highest quality.

AFRICA 65

RWANDAN COFFEE KEY FACTS

AFRICA 0.2%PERCENTAGE HARVEST:
TA
OF WORLD ARABICA
MARKET:
MARCH–AUGUST
MAIN TYPES: ROBUSTA
NYAGATARE NZANIA
99% ARABICA MAY–JUNE

BOURBON, CATURRA, PROCESSES:
CATUAI WASHED,
1% ROBUSTA SOME NATURAL

GATSIBO 32nd LARGESTWORLDRANKING

Eastern AS A PRODUCER:
Plain
PRODUCER IN THE WORLD

GICUMBI KAYONZA Lake
Ihema
GASABO
Kabuga EASTERN
PROVINCE
KICUKIRO
RWAMAGANA Lake
Cyambwe

NGOMA

BUGESERA KIREHE Washed Catuai
Rwandan soil enhances the floral and
stone-fruit flavors of varieties such
as Catuai—apparent after roasting.

Lake EASTERN PROVINCE Unripe Arabica cherries
Rweru When these ripen, Rwandan pickers
The southeast corner of Rwanda gather each cherry by hand.
SOUTHERN is home to a small number of
PROVINCE washing stations and farms that KEY
are slowly gaining a reputation
The higher elevations for coffees with rich chocolate NOTABLE COFFEE-
of Rwanda’s southern and forest-fruit notes. PRODUCING REGIONS
province produces
coffees with classic floral Washed Bourbon AREA OF PRODUCTION
or citrus flavors and Rwanda has preserved most of its
creamy textures—subtle old Bourbon variety, highly sought 0 km 20
and sweet. after by the specialty market. 0 miles 20

66 HOME ROASTING

HOME ROASTING

Roast your beans at home to get them to your preferred flavor. To do this,
you can use an electric home roaster for a controlled approach, or simply
heat a batch of coffee beans in a wok over your stove, stirring frequently.

HOW TO ROAST as looks brown. Keep notes on both roasting
process and flavor results, and you will soon
Finding a balance between time, temperature, learn how to manipulate the roast as desired.
and overall degree of roast can take some Aim for an overall roasting time of 10 to
practice, but roasting is a fascinating and 20 minutes. Shorter than this, and the coffee
satisfying route to understanding more about might be green and taste astringent. Longer
the potential flavors of coffee. Keeping within than this, and it might taste flat and hollow.
certain parameters, you should be able to If you buy an electric home roaster, follow
experiment and taste until you find a method that your manufacturer’s instructions.
works for your beans. There is no one-way-fits-all
recipe to roasting coffee that tastes good, as well

THE STAGES OF THE ROAST 6 MINUTES
Coffee beans transform as they are
roasted, increasing in size, smoothening, HIGH PRESSURE
and eliciting a range of aromas.
As the water in the bean
0 MINUTES UNROASTED heats up, steam pressure
GREEN BEANS builds up within the
structure and the color
Before you roast, the raw continues to deepen. Some
bean is green, and would beans turn a shade of brown
have a vegetal flavor if it that makes them look nearly
were used to brew coffee. done, but they should briefly
pale a little once they reach
the next vital stage of the
roast, the first crack.

3 MINUTES

DRYING PHASE

The beginning of roasting is called the
drying phase. Here, the bean turns from
green through yellow, to light brown. This
phase allows water to evaporate and acids
to react and break down, removing the
vegetal taste of the bean. The bean smells
like popcorn or toast, and the color
changes can make it look “wrinkled.”

HOME ROASTING 67

GREEN COFFEE BEANS

If you start with fresh, high-quality green beans— ruin the flavor of the coffee beans, even if they
readily available online or in specialty coffee are of the best quality.
shops—you’ll soon be able to create home-roasted
coffee to rival anything you would find on the There is no way to take old or low-quality
high street. You need to be prepared to try again green coffee and make it taste great. All you can
and again—there is a high chance that you may do is roast the beans so dark that you cover up
the flat, wooden, baggy taste with burnt flavors.

TIP 13 MINUTES

Once you are happy with ROASTING PHASE
the roast, cool the beans down
for 2–4 minutes and give them Sugars, acids, and compounds
a day or two to de-gas before react, developing flavors. Acids
break down, the sugars caramelize,
you use them. If you are and the cell structure dries
brewing espresso, allow more out and weakens.

time—about 1 week— 16 MINUTES
for this stage.
SECOND CRACK
9 MINUTES
Eventually you reach a second crack,
FIRST CRACK caused by gas pressure, and oils will
be forced to the surface of the brittle
The force of the steam eventually causes bean. Many espressos are roasted
the cell structure to rupture, making a to the beginning or middle of the
sound a bit like popcorn popping. This second crack.
is where the bean increases in size, gains
a smoother surface and an even color,
and starts to smell like coffee. Stop the
roast 1–2 minutes after the first crack
for filter or French press brewing.

20 MINUTES

BEYOND SECOND CRACK

You have little left of the original
flavor of the coffee in the bean. It
will mostly be dominated by roasty,
ashy, and bitter tastes. As oils travel
to the surface, they also oxidize and
become harsh-tasting quite quickly.

68 COFFEES OF THE WORLD

BURUNDI

Producing coffees that range from soft, floral, and
sweetly citrus to chocolatey and nutty, Burundi offers
few distinct regional flavor profiles, but its diverse
coffees capture interest from specialty companies.

Burundi has been growing coffee organic as funds for chemical BOURBON CHERRIES
only since the 1930s, and it has fertilizers or pesticides have not been Burundi grows mostly Bourbon,
taken a while for its great coffees to available. There are about 600,000 which was introduced to Réunion
get onto the radar of connoisseurs. smallholders with 200–300 trees each, Island by French missionaries.
The coffee sector has struggled who normally also grow other food
through political instability and crops or keep livestock. Growers
climatic challenges, and being deliver to washing stations (see Local
a landlocked country makes it Technique below). These stations are
difficult to get coffee to buyers members of Sogestals—companies
without quality suffering noticeably. who look after the transportation and
commercial aspects.
Robusta grows in some small
pockets, but the majority of the crop Coffee suffers from the potato
is Arabica—washed Bourbon, defect (see p64), but local research
Jackson, or Mibirizi, grown largely aims to reduce the problem.

BURUNDIAN COFFEE KEY FACTS

PERCENTAGE
OF WORLD

0.5%MARKET:
LESS THAN HARVEST:

EFEBRUARY–JUNE

MAIN TYPES: PROCESS:

96% ARABICA WASHED

BOURBON, JACKSON, MIBIRIZI LOCAL

4% ROBUSTA There are over

WORLD RANKING 160 washing stations

31st LARGEST COFFEEASAPRODUCER: dotted around the hilly
PRODUCER IN THE WORLD
areas of Burundi. These stations

wash the coffee beans in

specialized tanks

TE C (see p21). U

HNI Q

AFRICA 69

KAYANZA Lake AFRICA
Rweru
The Kayanza region is located Washed
in the north of Burundi, which KIRUNDO Bourbon
is close to the border with Sweet and
Rwanda. Coffee beans from citrus, Burundi
here are traditionally of Bourbon is most
very good quality. aromatic in
light roasts.
Washed Bourbon
Bourbon trees have been left CANKUZO
undisturbed here for decades.

CIBITOKE RWANDA MUYINGA
Muyinga
Mugamba NGOZI
Lake Tan g a nyika
KAYANZA
DEMCO. NRGEOP.
BUBANZA KARUZI

MUMIRWA KIRIMIRO
BUJUMBURA
MURAMVYA

BURUNDI

BUJUMBURA RUYIGI

MWARO GITEGA

BURURI RUTANA Flowering Arabica
MAKAMBA Coffee trees flower in Burundi
between June and August.

MUMIRWA KEY KIRIMIRO

This Sogestal lies NOTABLE COFFEE- Close to Gitega in the
in the west, in the PRODUCING REGIONS center of the country,
mountains of the areas covered by this
Kumugaruro, AREA OF PRODUCTION Sogestal have washing
southwest of Kibira stations at the highest
National Park. altitude in Burundi.
The high altitudes
provide perfect 0 km 30
conditions for 0 miles 30
growing coffee.

70 COFFEES OF THE WORLD

UGANDA AFRICA BUGISU

Robusta is indigenous to Uganda, and still The small farms of Bugisu and
grows wild in some places—little wonder Mount Elgon sit 5,250–6,200ft
(1,600–1,900m) above sea level,
and produce washed Arabicas
with heavy textures and sweet
and chocolatey flavors.

that the country is the world’s second

largest exporter of Robusta coffee. Nange ya

Mountains

Arabica was introduced in the early DCEOMN.GROE P. WEST NORTHERN
1900s, and most of it is now grown NILE Gulu
on the foothills of Mount Elgon. Va l l e y
About 3 million families rely on NORTHERN
the coffee sector for income. Some REGION
Arabica is produced, including Lira
Typica and SL varieties.
Natural Robusta UGANDA
For both Arabica and Robusta, Ugandans call washed Albert
new production and processing coffees “wugars,” and Lake Lake Kyoga
practices increase coffee quality. naturally processed ft
Robusta, generally thought of as coffees “drugars.”
inferior to Arabica and traditionally i
grown in lowland areas, grows here
at heights of 4,900ft (1,500m). The R Mbale
beans are also washed, not naturally EASTERN BUGISU
processed (see pp20–21). As quality WESTERN
improves, farmers reap the rewards REGION WESTERN
of good agricultural practice.
Great CENTRAL & Jinja K E N YA
SOUTHWEST Mukono

KAMPALA

Kasese LAKE VICTORIA
BASIN

akweard Masaka

Ed L Mbarara Lake

Victoria

UGANDAN COFFEE KEY FACTS TANZANIA

PERCENTAGE HARVESTS: WESTERN LAKE VICTORIA
OF WORLD ARABICA REGION BASIN
OCTOBER–FEBRUARY
2%MARKET: ROBUSTA Snow-capped Mount Robusta grows well in
ALL YEAR, PEAK IN Rwenzori in the west is loamy, clay-rich soils, so
MAIN TYPES: NOVEMBER–FEBRUARY home to the naturally the area around the Lake
PROCESSES: processed Arabicas of Victoria Basin is well
80% ROBUSTA WASHED AND NATURAL Uganda, known as suited. It also benefits
“Drugars.” Coffees can from the high altitudes,
20% ARABICA be wine-like with fruity increasing acidity and
notes and good acidity. adding complexity.
TYPICA, SL 14,
SL 28, KENT

WORLD RANKING KEY 0 km 100
0 miles 100
11th LARGESTASAPRODUCER: NOTABLE COFFEE-
PRODUCER IN THE WORLD PRODUCING REGIONS

AREA OF PRODUCTION

AFRICA 71

MALAWI AFRICA

TANZANIA MISUKU HILLS

One of the world’s smallest MISUKU Karonga Located 5,500–6,500ft
producers, Malawi is drawing HILLS (1,700–2,000m) above sea
interest for its subtle, floral, level, this area produces
East African coffees. NORTHERN some of the best coffee in
the country. Close to the
Songwe river, it benefits

PHOKA HILLS from steady rainfall and
stable temperatures.

Coffee came to Malawi in ZAMBIA Lake Nyasa

1891, brought by the British. PHOKA HILLS Mzuzu NKHATA BAY
Uniquely, the Arabica varieties NKHATA BAY HIGHLANDS
here are predominantly Geisha In Livingstonia, between
and Catimor, with some Agaro, the Nyika National Park HIGHLANDS To the southeast and
Mundo Novo, Bourbon, and plateau and Chilamba VIPHYA southwest of Mzuzu,
Blue Mountain. Kenyan SL 28 Bay, coffee grows on the the Nkhata Bay
is also being planted to help to Phoka hills at altitudes NORTH Highlands stretch up
invigorate the specialty sector. of about 5,500ft (1,700m) to 6,500ft (2,000m)
above sea level. It SOUTHEAST above sea level, and
Unlike other African produces sweet, subtly MZIMBA have a hot and rainy
countries, many coffee trees floral, and elegant coffees. climate. Some coffees
are grown on terraces to try to Kasunga taste very similar to
combat soil erosion and retain those from Ethiopia.
water. Malawi produces about CENTRAL

MALAWI

LILONGWE Chipoka

20,000 bags on average per

year, and consumes very few of

those internally. About 500,000 Washed Catimor Lake
smallholders grow coffee. At high altitudes in Malombe

MALAWIAN COFFEE KEY FACTS Malawi, Catimors gain ZOMBA Lake
a pleasing acidity, Chilwa
which comes through Zomba
when roasted. SOUTHERN

PERCENTAGE MAIN TYPES: CHIRADZULU MOZAMBIQUE
OF WORLD HIGHLANDS
ARABICA
0.01%MARKET: Blantyre
AGARO, GEISHA,
HARVEST: CATIMOR, MUNDO THYOLD
NOVO, BOURBON, HIGHLANDS
JUNE–OCTOBER BLUE MOUNTAIN,
CATURRA KEY
PROCESS: NOTABLE COFFEE-

WASHED

WORLD RANKING Washed Bourbon, PRODUCING REGIONS
Geisha, Agaro AREA OF PRODUCTION
43rd LARGESTASAPRODUCER: The range of
PRODUCER IN THE WORLD varieties in Malawi 0 km 100
attracts interest from

speciality companies. 0 miles 100



COFFEES OF THE WORLD

INDONESIA, ASIA,
AND OCEANIA

74 COFFEES OF THE WORLD

INDIA

Indian Arabica and Robusta are especially popular for
espresso preparation, because they are heavy-bodied and
low in acidity. There are some defined regional flavor
attributes, and exporters are keen to discover more.

Coffee in India is grown under shade, are smallholders. For almost a million ROBUSTA CHERRIES
normally alongside other crops, such people, coffee is a livelihood. Harvest After harvest, Indian Robusta
as pepper, cardamom, ginger, nuts, takes place twice a year for Robusta, beans are sometimes processed
oranges, vanilla, bananas, mangoes, but this often varies by several weeks using the monsooned method.
and jackfruits. At harvest, coffee depending on the climatic conditions.
cherries are either washed, naturally
processed, or “monsooned” (see In the last five years, production
Local Technique, below)—a has averaged at just under 5 million
method that is unique to India. bags per year. Around 80 percent of
this is exported, but more and more
Arabica grows here, including Indians choose to drink local coffee.
Catimor, Kent, and S 795 varieties,
but the majority of the crop is Traditional Indian filter coffee,
Robusta. There are about 250,000 made from three-quarters coffee
growers in India, nearly all of whom and one quarter chicory, is popular
around the country.

INDIAN COFFEE KEY FACTS

PERCENTAGE HARVEST:
OF WORLD
ARABICA
3.5%MARKET:
60% ROBUSTAMAINTYPES: OCTOBER–FEBRUARY
ROBUSTA
JANUARY–MARCH

40% ARABICA PROCESSES: LOCAL

CAUVERY/CATIMOR, KENT, S 795, SELECTIONS 4, NATURAL, WASHED, The unique monsooned
5B, 9, 10, SAN RAMON, CATURRA, DEVAMACHY SEMI-WASHED,
AND MONSOONED processing method exposes

coffee cherries to hot, humid

weather and wind, making

WORLD RANKING them swell, fade,

6th LARGEST COFFEEASAPRODUCER: and change in
PRODUCER IN THE WORLD
TE flavor. E
C U
HN I Q

INDONESIA, ASIA, AND OCEANIA 75

ASIA Washed Kent
The Kent variety was developed in India
and later imported to East Africa.

JAMMU &
KASHMIR

NORTHEAST REGIONS

Amritsar HIMACHAL C HINA This northeast region is a new
PRADESH area for coffee growth. It grows
only 2 percent of India’s
N PUNJAB production, all of it Arabica.

PA KISTA UTTARAKHAND N E PA L Himalayas ARUNACHAL RMA
Dese PRADESH
ar HARYANA
r t DELHI Delhi
NEW DELHI
SIKKIM BHUTAN BU
h
ASSAM NAGALAND

T Jaipur Lucknow

RAJASTHAN BIHAR MEGHALAYA
UTTAR BANGLADESH

PRADESH MANIPUR

TRIPURA

JHARKHAND MIZORAM

GUJARAT WEST
Ahmadabad BENGAL

MADHYA PRADESH CHHATTISGARH Kolkata
(Calcutta)
INDIA
Bay of Bengal

DADRA & Nagpur
NAGAR HAVELI
DAMAN & DIU
MAHARASHTRA
Mumbai
(Bombay) ODISHA
A r aSbeiaa n
ANDHRA Natural Robusta
PRADESH India produces some
Western Deccan Hyderabad of the highest-quality
G Robusta in the world.

KERALA KARNATAKA hats EASTERN REGIONS
INDIAN
Nearly 30 percent Ghats Eastern OCEAN Andhra Pradesh and Odisha are new areas
of India’s coffee GOA of coffee plantation on the eastern coast, and
grows in Kerala, KARNATAKA currently produce around 6 percent of the
almost all of it country’s total output—all of it Arabica.
Robusta. The main
districts are Wayanad, Bangalore
Travancore, and
Palakkad, and the Chennai This region in southern India produces just over half
famed monsooned (Madras) of all of India’s coffee, and 70 percent of it is Robusta.
Malabar is historically The first coffee crop planted in the 17th century was on
rooted in this area. TAMIL the Baba Budan Giri hill ranges in Chikkamagaluru.
NADU

KERALA SRI TAMIL NADU KEY
LANKA
Monsooned Malabar The state of Tamil Nadu produces NOTABLE COFFEE-
Monsooned beans taste around 10 percent of India’s coffee, PRODUCING REGIONS
somewhat wooden, both Arabica and Robusta, mainly in
with low acidity and the Sheveroys/Servarauyan hills and AREA OF PRODUCTION
a thick texture. around the Nilgiris and Kodaikanal.
0 km 300

0 miles 300

76 COFFEES OF THE WORLD

SUMATRA

Sumatra is the largest island within Indonesia. Coffees
here can have wooden notes, heavy textures, low acidity,
and flavors that range from earthy, cedary, and spicy,
to fermented fruit, cocoa, herbs, leather, and tobacco.

Indonesia produces mostly rustic- grown here. Producers often grow RIPE ROBUSTA FRUIT
flavored Robusta and a small mixed plots of various trees, causing Sumatran Robusta trees grow
proportion of Arabica. The first a lot of natural hybridization. predominantly in the central
coffee plantations in Sumatra Water can be scarce, so smallholders and southern part of the island.
appeared in 1888, and they are now mostly use the traditional Giling
the largest producer of Indonesian Basah processing method (see Local
Robusta, supplying around 75 Technique below), giving the coffee
percent of the country’s total output. its blue-green color. Unfortunately,
the method can cause damaged
Of the Arabicas, Typica is still beans and defect taints.
the most common. Some Bourbon,
as well as S-line hybrids, Caturra, The quality of Indonesian
Catimor, Hibrido de Timor (Tim coffees is inconsistent, and internal
Tim), and Ethiopian lines called logistical challenges make it difficult
Rambung and Abyssinia are also to source premium selections.

SUMATRAN COFFEE KEY FACTS

PERCENTAGE HARVEST:
OF WORLD
OCTOBER–MARCH
7% (INDONESIA)MARKET:
MAIN TYPES:AROUND PROCESSES:

E
75% ROBUSTA GILING BASAHAND
25% ARABICA WASHED

TYPICA, CATURRA, BOURBON, LOCAL
S-LINE HYBRIDS, CATIMOR, TIM TIM
The Giling Basah method
involves pulping the coffee
beans (see p20), leaving them to

dry for a day or so, then hulling the

WORLD RANKING AS A parchment off while the beans still

3rd LARGESTPRODUCER (INDONESIA): have a high moisture
PRODUCER IN THE WORLD
TE C content. U

HNI Q

INDONESIA, ASIA, AND OCEANIA 77

Banda Aceh Andaman ACEH INDONESIA
Sea
At the northern tip of Sumatra, Washed Longberry
the areas around Gayo Mountain, This variety hails
Takengon, and Lake Laut Tawar back to Ethiopia.
are home to farms at 3,600–4,260ft The fruity notes
(1,100–1,300m) above sea level. of the elongated
beans are strong even
ACEH Washed Rasuna when grown in Indonesia.

Simeulue BMedan Strait of M Exporters are now willing to
market varieties with their own
SUMATERA a l a flavor profiles. Rasunas often
show savory and fruity notes.
UTARA
cca MALAYSIA
Lake
Toba

LINTONG

LINTONG n RIAU LAMPUNG
a Pekanbaru
The coffee farms s At the southern
around Lake Toba i INDONESIA tip of the island
lie at 3,900–4,900ft r is one of the biggest
(1,200–1,500m) above Sumatra Robusta-producing
sea level. Production a regions in Sumatra,
stretches from Lintong Padang with a well-suited
Nihuta up to Sidikalang. Siberut n climate and altitudes
This area grows some u of 1,300–2,300ft
of Indonesia’s most o (400–700m) above
prized Arabicas. M sea level.

Mentawai Jambi

SUMATERA BARAT JAMBI
n
i SUMATERA
a
t SELATAN

Strait

Palembang

Washed Jantung s BENGKULU &
Interest in Sumatran varieties has been on the
increase recently. The Jantung often exhibits MANGKURAJA
what many consider typical Indonesian flavors.
(SOUTHWEST REGION)

BENGKULU

KEY SOUTHWEST REGION INDIAN LAMPUNG
OCEAN Bandarlampung
NOTABLE COFFEE- Bengkulu and Mangkuraja are
PRODUCING REGIONS new areas of coffee production,
where Giling Basah and
AREA OF PRODUCTION naturally processed beans are
prepared, resulting in heavy,
0 km 200 200 rustic-tasting Robustas.

0 miles

78 COFFEES OF THE WORLD

SULAWESI

Of all the islands in Indonesia, Sulawesi grows the most
Arabica trees. Well-processed coffees display flavors of
grapefruit, berries, nuts, and spices. Coffees often taste
savory, and most have low acidity and thick texture.

Sulawesi represents only about processing method, as used in RIPENING ROBUSTA
2 percent of Indonesia’s coffee Sumatra (see p76). This results in The small proportion of Robusta
crop, with roughly 7,700 tons of coffee beans that display a hint of the trees in Sulawesi are mostly found
Arabica produced per year. Some classic Indonesian dark-green color. in the northeastern areas.
Robusta is also grown, but it is largely
consumed in Sulawesi, rather than Some producers are starting to
being exported. wash coffee beans (see pp20–21)
in a similar way to Central America,
Sulawesi has iron-rich soils and which helps to add value to their
grows old Typica, S 795, and Jember product. Much of this development is
varieties at very high altitudes. due to Japanese importers, who are
Most of the farmers here are the biggest buyers and have invested
smallholders—only about 5 percent heavily in the Sulawesian coffee
of the crop comes from larger estates. industry to ensure high-quality
Giling Basah is the traditional standards are met.

SULAWESIAN COFFEE KEY FACTS

PERCENTAGE
OF WORLD

7% JULY–SEPTEMBERMARKET:
AROUND HARVEST:

(INDONESIA)

MAIN TYPES:

95% ARABICA PROCESSES:

TYPICA, S 795, JEMBER GILING BASAH
AND WASHED
5% ROBUSTA

WORLD RANKING AS A

3rd LARGEST COFFEEPRODUCER(INDONESIA):
PRODUCER IN THE WORLD

INDONESIA, ASIA, AND OCEANIA 79

INDONESIA Manado

unouanmgaasn Pegunungan Paleleh Celebes SULAWESI
Sea UTARA
GORONTALO
Gorontalo

OPge g

Gulf of To gian Molucca ENREKANG
Tomini Islands Sea

INDONESIA Balingara The Enrekang Regency
Peleng lies south of Toraja.
Palu The capital of this area
Poso is Kalosi, and much of
Pe gunungan Tak Pe gu n unga n the speciality coffee
from this area carries
r the name of this
historical market town.
a

tarkaaists SULAWESI olekaju SULAWESI Banda slaanndgsga i
BARAT TENGAH Sea
M BI
S Lake

Poso

TANA Sulawesi
TORAJA
Malunda Lake
MAMASA
Pe gu Towut i
Polewali bu
A nu n ga
ki
ENREKANG Malamala n

MAMASA Bone Bay SULAWESI Kendari
TENGGARA Wowoni
Mamasa is a little-

known coffee-producing

region in the west. SULAWESI Washed Typica
SELATAN The characteristics of these
With clean Arabica trees, combined with local soil,
affect the flavors of the coffee.
qualities drawing
Tu k a n g b e s i
interest from specialty Muna Islands
Buton
buyers, Mamasa is

sure to become a Makassar Kabaena
household name.

GOWA &
SINJAL

GOWA AND SINJAL Giling Basah Toraja KEY
Giling Basah-processed beans
South of Kalosi, these areas produce can be recognized by their NOTABLE COFFEE-
less coffee. About 40 percent of it mossy, dark-green hue. PRODUCING REGIONS
is Robusta. Sulawesi coffee exports
are channeled through the Makassar TANA TORAJA AREA OF PRODUCTION
port to the west of Gowa.
The central highlands of Southern Sulawesi grow
0 km 100 some of the island’s best coffee, at altitudes of
0 miles 100 3,600–6,000ft (1,100–1,800m) above sea level. The
coffee here is named after the local Toraja people.

80 COFFEES OF THE WORLD

JAVA INDONESIA

The island of Java offers few regional flavor profiles, but
in general, coffees are low in acidity, nutty or earthy, and
heavy-bodied. Some are aged for a rustic flavor.

WEST HIGHLANDS

New private plantings are taking
place in Western Java. Experimental
varieties such as Andung Sari,
Sigararuntang, Kartika, and S-lines
as well as Ateng, Jember, and very
old Typica varieties grow here, and
promise some exciting new beans.
Strait Serang JAKARTA
Sunda
AROUND Tangerang JAKARTA
Panaitan RAYA
Island E
Lake
Jatiluhur

BANTEN Bogor

Cirebon J a v a S e a

WEST Cianjur
HIGHLANDS
Bandung Brebes Tegal

JAWA Pekalongan
BARAT
Sukabumi

I NDONESIA
JAWA
Garut TENGAH

Ciamis Ja v a
CENTRAL
Washed Arabica HIGHLANDS
Javanese Arabicas are often
large and smooth, with little Cilacap
or no silverskin on the surface.

JAVANESE COFFEE KEY FACTS

PERCENTAGE
OF WORLD

7% 90% ROBUSTAMARKET:
MAIN TYPES:

(INDONESIA)

HARVEST: 10% ARABICA LOCAL

JUNE–OCTOBER ANDUNG SARI, S-LINES, Javans mainly use the
KARTIKA, ATENG,
PROCESS: SIGARARUNTANG, washed method. This decreases
JEMBER, TYPICA
WASHED the risk of taints or defects

caused when the beans are

WORLD RANKING AS A processed using the Giling

3rd LARGESTPRODUCER (INDONESIA): Basah method
PRODUCER IN THE WORLD
TE C (see p76). U

HNI Q

INDONESIA, ASIA, AND OCEANIA 81

Indonesia was the first non-African Most of the coffee grown in Java ROBUSTA CLUSTER
country to cultivate coffee on a large today is Robusta, but it also grows Coffee cherries mature at different
scale. It began in 1696 with the areas some varieties of Arabica, such as speeds—one of the reasons for
around Jakarta, West Java. The first Ateng, Jember, and Typica. Coffee the long harvest period in Java.
seedlings did not survive due to a is largely grown on government-
flood, but in a second attempt three owned (PTP) plantations, centered
years later, they took root. at the Ijen Plateau in Eastern Java.
These state-owned plantations
Production flourished until leaf produce washed coffees, cleaner
rust killed most Typica trees in than many other Indonesian coffees.
1876, causing widespread planting New private plantings are taking
of Robusta. New Arabica plantings place in Western Java, around
did not occur until the 1950s, and Mount Pangalengan, making this
still only represent about 10 percent area one to watch for the future.
of Javanese coffee.

Old Brown Java
Beans that are over a year old decrease
in value, but this coffee is an exception—
valued for curiosity rather than flavor.

Semarang

Purwodadi i n s Madura Island

u n t a Surabaya

e n g M o

K e n d

Surakarta Jombang Bali Sea
Yogyakarta
YOGYAKARTA Madiun

Kediri Pasuruan

JAWA Probolinggo
TIMUR
Bali Strait
Malang
Bali
EAST Jember
HIGHLANDS

Pruned Robusta trees EAST HIGHLANDS Washed Robusta KEY
Javanese trees are sometimes allowed Often of high quality, with
to grow high, but most are pruned The largest PTP plantations a clean, gently nutty taste, NOTABLE COFFEE-
to help the pickers during harvest. are Blawan, Jampit, Pancoer, Javanese Robusta beans are PRODUCING REGIONS
Kayumas, and Tugosari. popular in commercial espresso.
Robusta is grown on several AREA OF PRODUCTION
estates – Kaliselogiri and
Satak being two of the most 0 km 50
well known. There are also
some private estates, such as 0 miles 50
Kalibendo and Ayer Dingin,
located at lower altitudes;
these use the traditional Giling
Basah method (see p76).

82 COFFEE Q&A

COFFEE Q&A

There are many mixed messages about coffee in the media, and it can be
difficult to find information that relates to you—especially as caffeine affects
us all in different ways. Here are reliable answers to common coffee queries.

HOW ADDICTIVE Coffee is not considered
IS COFFEE? a drug of dependence and any
“withdrawal symptoms” can be
alleviated by gently decreasing
the daily consumption of coffee

over a short period of time.

IS COFFEE While coffee can have a diuretic 98%
DEHYDRATING? effect, a cup of it consists of about WATER
98 percent water and as such is
not dehydrating. Any loss of fluid

is effectively offset by the
intake itself.

CAN DRINKING Coffee and its antioxidants—
COFFEE BE GOOD caffeine and other organic
FOR OUR HEALTH? compounds—have been shown to
have positive effects on a wide
range of health problems.

CAN COFFEE Brain activity that controls
IMPROVE memory and concentration
LEVELS OF is boosted temporarily when
CONCENTRATION?
we drink coffee.

HOW DOES COFFEE Q&A 83
CAFFEINE KEEP
Caffeine blocks a chemical called
US AWAKE? adenosine from attaching to its receptors,

which would normally make you feel
sleepy. The blockage also triggers the
production of adrenaline, increasing

your feeling of alertness.

WHAT EFFECT
DOES CAFFEINE
HAVE ON
SPORTING DO DARK ROASTS
ABILITY? The effects of moderate caffeine CONTAIN MORE
intake can improve endurance in aerobic
CAFFEINE?
sports as well as performance in

anaerobic exercises. It opens up your

bronchial tubes, improving breathing,

and releases sugar into your blood

stream, directing it to muscles.

Very dark roasts might
actually contain less caffeine,

and definitely won’t perk
you up faster.

WHY DON’T I You can desensitize yourself
GET A CAFFEINE to the effects of caffeine by
drinking coffee at the same time
KICK? every day, so change your
routine every now and then.

84 COFFEES OF THE WORLD

PAPUA NEW GUINEA

Coffees produced in Papua New Guinea have dense
textures, low-to-medium acidity, and a range of herbal,
wooden, and tropical- or tobacco-like flavors.

Most coffee is grown in smallholder varieties. Two to three million people OCEANIA
gardens, some in plantations, and a rely on coffee for their livelihoods.
small percentage use a state program.
Almost all the coffee is highland- There is great interest for all the
grown washed Arabica, including coffee-growing provinces to plant
Bourbon, Arusha, and Mundo Novo more trees and produce coffee of
better quality.
Vanimo EASTERN HIGHLANDS KEY
Washed Mundo
With high altitudes that reach Novo Peaberry NOTABLE COFFEE-
4,900–6,200ft (1,500–1,900m) These Peaberries (see PRODUCING REGIONS
above sea level and the most rain, p16) have a wine-like,
some of the best, most complex juicy character. AREA OF PRODUCTION
coffees are found here.
New
SANDAUN Wewak Ireland

NEW IRELAND 0 km 150

EAST SEPIK Karkar B i s m a r c k Rabaul 0 miles 150

Central Range MADANG Sea WEST NEW EAST
Madang BRITAIN NEW BRITAIN
NORTH
ENGA & WESTERN Vitiaz Solomon
Kimbe Sea S o SOLOMONS
N e wHIGHLANDS
Goroka Strait New Britain lomon
Guinea
CHIMBU MOROBE Bougainville Arawa Is l
SOUTHERN EASTERN Lae Island
a n
HIGHLANDS HIGHLANDS d
s
Lake Murray GULF JIWAKA

P A P U A N E W G U I N E A PNG COFFEE

WESTERN

Gulf of Papua uxD’EInstlraKencidarssitweainaLESS THAN0.7%PERCENTAGE
Owe
Washed Typica nMSOPtROaERnSTlBeNYyORRaPTnoHpgoEenRdeNtta MILNE BAY OF WORLD
Bourbon Alotau MARKET:
The Typica variety CENTRAL
was one of the first MAIN TYPES:
to grow in Papua Coral sea
New Guinea. 95% ARABICA
CHIMBU AND JIWAKA
ENGA AND WESTERN OLD STRAINS OF TYPICA, BOURBON,
HIGHLANDS With some of the highest-grown ARUSHA, BLUE MOUNTAIN, MUNDO NOVO
coffee in Papua New Guinea at
These relatively dry highlands, 5,250–6,200ft (1,600–1,900m) 5% ROBUSTA
between 3,900 and 6,000ft (1,200 and above sea level, the best coffees
1,800m) above sea level, grow lower- are bright, with gentle fruity notes. HARVEST: APRIL–SEPTEMBER
acidity beans with herbal, nutty notes.
17thWORLD RANKING

AS A PRODUCER:

INDONESIA, ASIA, AND OCEANIA 85

AUSTRALIA AUSTRALIAN COFFEE

PERCENTAGE LESS THAN HARVEST:
The flavor of Australian Arabicas is varied, JUNE–
OCTOBER
0.01%but often nutty, chocolatey, and softly acidic,
OF WORLD
MARKET:

ARABICAwith scope for sweetly citrus and fruity notes. MAIN TYPES: PROCESSES:

WASHED,
K7, CATUAI, MUNDO NOVO, PULPED,
Arabica has grown here for producers also starting to TYPICA, BOURBON NATURAL
200 years, but the industry plant on Norfolk Island,

has gone through highs and off the east coast.
50thmechanical harvesting in the varieties, such as the popular AS A PRODUCER:
lows. With the move to Growers here plant new WORLD RANKING

last 30 years, new farms have K7, Catuai, and Mundo

been established to revive Novo, alongside old Typica THE ATHERTON HIGHLANDS

the sector, with some and Bourbon. This region in far north Queensland

Arafura produces about half of Australia’s
Sea output. Most of the country’s big farms

Washed Catuai Darwin can be found here. Coffees from here
Australia sources are often sweet, chocolatey, and nutty.
varieties, such as Catuai, Arnhem Gulf of
that suit the climate.
Land Carpentaria CENTRAL AND
SOUTHWEST
Kimberley NORTHERN Barkly Tableland Cape QUEENSLAND
Plateau TERRITORY York
Peninsula A smaller area, there are a
THE ATHERTON
Cairns HIGHLANDS

G r eat Sa n G Townsville mix of a few small growers
Des ert D and some large commercial
operations here. Coffees
d y r
i

vRe aiadtni tend to be mild, sweet, and
low in acidity.
AU STR ALIA ng
ge Rockhampton
Gibson Alice Springs Simpson
Desert Desert QUEENSLAND CENTRAL &
SOUTHWEST
QUEENSLAND

WESTERN Great Lake Eyre
AUSTRALIA Victoria North

Desert SOUTH AUSTRALIA
G Brisbane
r
Darling Range Nullarbor Plain Lake NORTHERN
Flinders RangesTorrens NEW SOUTH
Great Dividing Range
Perth Australian Bight WALES
eat
Adelaide NEW SOUTH Sydney Natural Bourbon
WALES Natural processing
suits areas in east
CANBERRA Queensland with
defined dry seasons.
NORTHERN NEW VICTORIA AUSTRALIAN CAPITAL
TERRITORY 600
SOUTH WALES
KEY Melbourne 600

NOTABLE COFFEE- With colder weather and higher Bass Strait 0 km
PRODUCING REGIONS altitudes, the coffee cherries ripen TASMANIA 0 miles
slower. This intensifies flavors and,
AREA OF PRODUCTION potentially, lowers caffeine levels.

Hobart

86 COFFEES OF THE WORLD

THAILAND MYANMAR CHIANG
(BURMA) RAI

Robustas dominate in Thailand, MAE HONG Chiang Mai SOUTHEAST
but the best Arabicas show soft SON CHIANG LAMPANG ASIA
textures, low acidity, and the MAI
potential for pleasant floral notes.
Tane Range
Udon Thani

Almost all of the coffee growing in NORTH Phitsanulok
Thailand is Robusta. Most of it is
naturally processed and used to make The small quantity of TAK
instant coffee. In the 1970s, seeing Arabica here grows in
the potential for higher-quality the northern regions, Nakhon Sawan
Arabicas, farmers were encouraged at altitudes of 2,620–
to plant trees, such as Caturra, 4,900ft (800–1,500m) THAILAND Naturally processed cherries
Catuai, and Catimor. Unfortunately, above sea level. Arabicas Underripe, ripe, and overripe
the follow-up on this was lacking, are generally washed coffee cherries are often
and farmers had little incentive to to optimize the picked in one pass in Thailand.
do anything with the trees. Interest premium prices they
in Thai coffee has grown in recent fetch over Robusta.
years, and investment helps farmers
to produce high-quality coffee. Bilauktaung BANGKOK

THAI COFFEE KEY FACTS Range

0.5%PERCENTAGE HARVEST: Isthmus of Kra Washed Arabica Peaberries
Peaberry selections (see p16) are
OF WORLD OCTOBER– sometimes separated out and sold on
MARKET: MARCH their own, particularly in northern areas.

MAIN TYPES:
98% ROBUSTA PROCESSES:
CHUMPHON SOUTH

2% ARABICA NATURAL, RANONG Robusta grows well in the southern
SOME regions, representing nearly all the
CATURRA, CATUAI, WASHED coffee grown in the country.
CATIMOR, GEISHA
SURAT KEY
WORLD RANKINGst THANI Nakhon Si
NOTABLE COFFEE-
21 LARGESTASAPRODUCER: Thammarat PRODUCING REGIONS
PHANG NA
AREA OF PRODUCTION
NAKON SI
KRABI THAMMARAT

PRODUCER IN THE WORLD 0 km 150

0 miles 150
Songkhla

INDONESIA, ASIA, AND OCEANIA 87

VIETNAM CHINA

There are some soft, sweet, So NORTHEAST SOUTHEAST
n ASIA
Li
and nutty varieties here Hoàng
ê
that are of interest to HA NÔI Câm Pha
the specialty market. NORTHWEST n RED

Vietnam began to produce coffee CENTRAL COAST LAOS RIVER Hai Phong
in 1857. In the early 1900s, after NORTH DELTA
some political reforms, farmers
boosted their coffee production to Mountains protect Thua Nam Ðinh CENTRAL
capitalize on good market prices. Thien Hue, Quang Tri, Ha
Over a 10-year period, Vietnam Tinh, Nghe An, and Thanh COAST SOUTH
became the second-largest coffee Hoa from the monsoon
producer in the world. As a result, winds, making it possible to Gulf of Some farmers around
inferior Robustas flooded the expand plantings of Arabica. Tongking Quang Nam, Quang
market, causing a low-price,
M Ngai, Binh Dinh, Phu

CENTRAL Yen, and Khanh Hoa
WESTERN Vinh have started watering
HIGHLANDS
the trees during the dry

A CENTRAL season to manipulate
COAST flowering and get ripe
n
o

n NORTH cherries at a beneficial
u

a time of year.
n

low-quality trend. Today, the it
government aims for a balance mt a i

The areas around Dak e
Lak, Gia Lai, Kontum, and n

s

between supply and demand. Washed Arabica Lam Dong grow coffee at Đa Năng
Robusta is the main crop, but The flavor profile of 1,650–2,300ft (500–700m)
a little Arabica also grows. Vietnamese Arabica above sea level. They have VIETNAM
is yet to be identified, hot days, cool nights, and
as production is growing. wet and dry seasons. CENTRAL

COAST

SOUTH

VIETNAMESE COFFEE KEY FACTS SOUTHEAST

HARVEST: Around Dong Nai, Ba CAMBODIA Quy Nhon
PERCENTAGE Ria-Vung tau, and Binh
OF WORLD Phuoc, the fertile red CENTRAL
soil and hot and humid WESTERN
14% OCTOBER–MARKET: weather help Robusta HIGHLANDS
APRIL to thrive. Harvest is
MAIN TYPES: in the dry season. Cam Ranh
95% ROBUSTA
5% ARABICA
PROCESSES: SOUTHEAST
CATIMOR, Hô Chi Minh
NATURAL,
CHARI (EXCELSA) SOME WASHED KEY

WORLD RANKING NOTABLE COFFEE-
PRODUCING REGIONS
2nd LARGESTASAPRODUCER:
PRODUCER IN THE WORLD AREA OF PRODUCTION

0 km 150

0 miles 150

88 COFFEES OF THE WORLD

CHINA YUNNAN PROVINCE ASIA

Chinese coffees are generally soft The Pu’er, Kunming, Lincang Wenshan, and Washed Typica
and sweet, with delicate acidity Dehong regions grow 95 percent of Chinese China’s Typica is
and nutty flavors that can cross coffees. Most are Catimor, while some old often sweet,
over into caramel and chocolate. Bourbon and Typica can still be found in structured, and
the Baoshan prefecture. Coffees are mostly medium-bodied.
low-acidic, nutty, or cereal-like in taste.

Coffee has been growing in China Shanghai

since 1887, when it was brought Hengduan Shan Sichuan
to Yunnan by missionaries. It Pendi
took another century before the
government focused efforts on SICHUAN G ao yuan Changsha Nanchang ZHEJIANG
its production. New measures Yu n g u i G UIZHOU HUNAN JIANGXI
have improved practices and
conditions, helping total coffee Guiyang

Kunming CH INA Fuzhou
FUJIAN

production to grow by about YUNNAN GUANGXI ZHUANGZU GUANGDONG Taiwan
15 percent every year. While the ZIZHIQU Guangzhou
per capita is currently only 2–3
Nanning

cups a year, this is also increasing. BURMA VIETNAM Hong Kong
Arabica varieties grown here
(MYANMAR) LAOS South China Sea

include Catimor and Typica. Hainan Haikou
Dao

HAINAN

CHINESE COFFEE KEY FACTS HAINAN ISLAND Washed Catimor
This is the most

0.5%PERCENTAGE HARVEST: Off the south coast of China, widespread variety
the island of Hainan grows grown in China.
OF WORLD NOVEMBER– about 1⁄3–1⁄2 ton (300–400kg)
MARKET: of Robusta annually, and FUJIAN PROVINCE
APRIL while production is in
MAIN TYPES: decline, coffee culture is very The coastal province
strong among the people across from Taiwan is
95% ARABICA PROCESSES: here. The coffee is often mild, a large producer of tea,
woody, and heavy-bodied. but some Robusta coffee
is grown here, making
CATIMOR, BOURBON, WASHED up a small percentage
TYPICA AND of China’s total output.
Robustas are typically low
in acidity and full-bodied.

5% ROBUSTA NATURAL KEY

WORLD RANKING NOTABLE COFFEE-
PRODUCING REGIONS
20th LARGESTASAPRODUCER:
PRODUCER AREA OF PRODUCTION

Drying coffee cherries 0 km 400
It is not uncommon for families
to dry cherries outside their 0 miles 400
homes, both to sell and consume.

INDONESIA, ASIA, AND OCEANIA 89

YEMEN HARAZI MATARI ASIA

Some of the most interesting Half way to the Immediately to the west
Arabicas in the world grow in coast from Sana’a, of Sana’a on the way to
Yemen, with “wild” flavors of the Jabal Haraz the port in Hodeidah,
spice, earth, fruits, and tobacco. mountain range is the area producing
home to the Harazi Matari coffee lies at
coffee growers, who a high altitude and is
produce classically known to produce some
complex, fruity, of the more acidic
wine-like coffees.
Yemeni coffees. E m p t y Q u a r t e r
OMAN
Coffee grew in Yemen long SAUDI ARABIA
before it reached any other Al Mahrah
country outside of Africa. DRahammlat
The small town of Mocha
was the first port to establish

commerical export. Red

Coffee still grows wild in MATARI YEMEN
some places, but the main
cultivated areas grow old HARAZI SANA’A as Sab‘a ta yn amaut
Typica and old Ethiopian Ha
strains. Varieties often share SeaHodeidah ISMAILI Ramlat r Al Mukalla
the same name as regions, DHAMARI
d h

making it difficult to trace Ta‘izz of Aden Ripening coffee cherries
and identify them. Aden Yemeni coffees are often
allowed to overripen and
Gulf

YEMENI COFFEE KEY FACTS DHAMARI dry up on the branches.

PERCENTAGE LOCAL South of Sana’a, the ISMAILI
OF WORLD western districts of
Growing and processing has the Dhamar governorate Named after a group of
0.1%MARKET: produce coffees that Muslims that settled in
remained unchanged for the past have classic Yemeni the area around Hutayb,
MAIN TYPES: traits, but are often Ismaili is both the name
ARABICA 800 years, and chemical use is softer and rounder than of a local variety and the
TYPICA, HEIRLOOM the western coffees. general area, producing
HARVEST: uncommon. Due to the lack of some of the more rustic
Yemeni coffees.
JUNE–DECEMBER water, coffees are naturally
T E
PROCESS: processed, and can

E C H N I QUlook irregular.

NATURAL Natural Heirloom

Unknown Heirloom

WORLD RANKING varieties are naturally KEY
processed here, adding
33rd LARGESTASAPRODUCER: a unique local character.

PRODUCER 0 km 150 NOTABLE COFFEE-
0 miles 150 PRODUCING REGIONS

AREA OF PRODUCTION



COFFEES OF THE WORLD

SOUTH AND
CENTRAL AMERICA

92 COFFEES OF THE WORLD

BRAZIL

Brazil is the world’s largest producer of coffee. Regional
differences are difficult to distinguish, but it is widely
accepted that Brazil produces soft-washed Arabicas and
sweet naturals with mild acidity and medium texture.

In 1920, Brazil produced about Brazil’s coffee—enough to rival PRECISE PLANTINGS
80 percent of all the coffee grown the output of Vietnam, the second Neat rows of trees on flat terrain
in the world. As other countries largest producer in the world. help farmers to machine harvest—a
increased their production, When Brazil has a peak or slump key part of Brazil’s farming system.
Brazil’s market share decreased in production, it sends ripples
to the current 35 percent, but through the market and affects the
it remains the largest producer livelihoods of millions—the price
worldwide. It mainly grows we all pay for our cup of coffee.
Arabica—Mundo Novo and Icatu
varieties, among others. Today, there are about 300,000
farms across the country, ranging
After the devastating frost of in size from an acre to more than
1975, many farmers established new 25,000 acres (1–10,000 hectares).
plantations in Minas Gerais, which Brazil consumes about half of all
now alone produces nearly half of the coffee it produces.

BRAZILIAN COFFEE KEY FACTS

PERCENTAGE MAIN TYPES:
OF WORLD
80% ARABICA
35%MARKET:

PROCESSES: BOURBON, CATUAI, ACAIA,
MUNDO NOVO, ICATU
NATURAL,
PULPED NATURAL,
SEMI WASHED, 20% ROBUSTA LOCAL

HARVEST: Much of the coffee-
AND FULLY WASHED MAY–SEPTEMBER
producing process in

Brazil is heavily mechanized,

and unlike many countries,

WORLD RANKING T they have a practice ofE

LARGEST COFFEEASAPRODUCER: harvesting first and
PRODUCER IN THE WORLD
E C H N I QUsorting later.

SOUTH AND CENTRAL AMERICA 93

Pulped Natural Icatu ESPÍRITO
Developed here, the Icatu is a SANTO
Robusta cross—so is quite hardy.
The second largest
SOUTH ZUE L A u G U YA N A SURINAME FRENCH BAHIA coffee state, 80
AMERICA G H GUIANA percent of the
i a Some of the best Arabicas coffee is Robusta.
OMBIA E n ighlands (to France) in Bahia come from Some Arabica can
COL a Chapada Diamantina and be found south of
VEN AMAPÁ Planalto. Producers south the region at higher
Boa Vista of the region grow Robusta altitudes of 3,900ft
on large mechanical farms. (1,200m) above
RORAIMA sea level.
Belém
Planalto
Balbina Maracanaquará
Reservoir

Manaus

Tucuruí Fortaleza
Reservoir
Pulped Natural Catuai AMAZONAS PARÁ MARANHÃO CEARÁ
TOCANTINS PIAUÍ
The pulped-natural process Amazon Basin RIO GRANDE
combines the sweetness of a L DO NORTE
natural with the cleanliness RAZI
of a washed coffee. PARAÍBA
PERNAMBUCO Recife
Porto Velho

PERU ACRE RONDÔNIA B ALAGOAS
SERGIPE

BOLIVIA MATO GROSSO Salvador

Black Honey BAHIA
Yellow Icatu
A light roast highlights Planalto de BRASÍLIA DISTRITO Pulped Natural
nutty tones in these Mato Grosso Mundo Novo
Brazilian beans. This Brazilian
GOIÁS FEDERAL Bourbon–Typica
cross is growing
Brazilian

Highlands in popularity.

Pantanal MINAS GERAIS MATAS
DE MINAS

Campo Grande Belo Horizonte

ESPÍRITO

MATO GROSSO DO SUL SANTO
SUL DE MINAS RIO DE JANEIRO

SÃO PAULO

SAO PAULO CERRADO Itaipú CERRADO Rio
STATE Reservoir São Paulo de Janeiro

Mogiana is the PARANÁ MATAS DE MINAS

best-known coffee The flat landscape of ARGENT SANTA CATARINA About half of the farms in this
region in Sao Paulo Cerrado lends itself to mountainous region are small estates
state, and being mechanized harvesting, INA that harvest annually. At altitudes up to
relatively dry, a and 90 percent of the 3,900 ft (1,200m) above sea level, coffee
lot of naturally coffee here is from large RIO GRANDE grows at cooler temperatures and is
processed Arabicas estates that naturally DO SUL strong and sweet with medium acidity.
come from here. process the beans. Porto Alegre

KEY URUG SUL DE MINAS

NOTABLE COFFEE- UAY The cool, high altitudes of this region (up to
PRODUCING REGIONS 0 km 500 5,250ft/1,600m above sea level) give the coffee
0 miles 500 a citrus, floral quality that encourages many
AREA OF PRODUCTION to claim that this is the best coffee in Brazil.

94 COFFEES OF THE WORLD

COLOMBIA

Colombian coffees are generally rich and full bodied.
They span a vast range of flavor attributes—from
sweet, nutty, and chocolatey to floral, fruity, and
almost tropical. Each region offers a distinct profile.

The mountains of Colombia create October to November. Two million DRYING BEANS
an abundance of microclimates that Colombians rely on coffee for their Beans usually dry on concrete, but
bring out potentially unique qualities livelihoods. Most of these people where terrain is too steep, workers
in the coffee. All of the coffee is work for a group of small farms, but choose to dry them on rooftops.
Arabica—including Typica and about 560,000 of them are producers
Bourbon varieties—and traditionally who have only 2–41⁄2 acres (1–2
washed, and there are one or hectares) of land. In recent years,
two harvests a year depending the specialty industry has gained
on the region. Some harvest the access to work with small farmers
coffee cherries just from September individually, buying small volumes
to December, with another smaller and paying more for quality crops.
harvest in April or May. Others
harvest their main crop from March More and more Colombians drink
to June, and gain another crop from Colombian coffee—around 20 percent
of the total coffee production.

COLOMBIAN COFFEE KEY FACTS

PERCENTAGE CHALLENGES:
OF WORLD
CONTROLLED DRYING, FINANCE, SOIL
6%MARKET: EROSION, CLIMATE CHANGE, LACK
MAIN TYPES:
OF WATER, LACK OF SECURITY
ARABICA
TYPICA, BOURBON, TABI, HARVESTS:
CATURRA, COLOMBIA,
MARCH–JUNE AND
SEPTEMBER–DECEMBER
LOCAL
PROCESS:
Most farmers have their own

MARAGOGIPE, CASTILLO WASHED wet-milling facilities and so can
control the drying process (see

pp20–21). Raised beds are now

WORLD RANKING popular—these help producers

4th LARGEST COFFEEASAPRODUCER: to turn beans easily
PRODUCER IN THE WORLD
TE as they dry. E
C U
HNI Q

SOUTH AND CENTRAL AMERICA 95

SOUTH Caribbean LA GUAJIRA SANTANDER
AMERICA
Sea One of the
Washed Caturra northernmost regions,
Light-to-medium Barranquilla Santander and Norte
roasts highlight the de Santander grow
citrus notes of many ATLÁNTICO VENEZUELA 9 percent of the
Colombian coffees. MAGDALENA Colombian coffee,
CESAR most of it under shade
and at lower altitudes,
SUCRE resulting in softer, Colombian coffee farm
CÓRDOBA BOLÍVAR NORTE DE earthier coffees with Neatly planted in rows,
low acidity. Colombian coffee farms are
SANTANDER often very well managed.

CAUCA ANTIOQUIA SANTANDER ARAUCA
Medellín
The best-known

municipalities in CASANARE o s
n
Cauca are Inza and CHOCÓ CALDAS BOYACÁ
Popayan, and, as a la
RISARALDA L VICHADA
whole, the department CUNDINAMARCA

produces 8 percent QUINDÍO BOGOTÁ
of Colombia’s coffee, VALLE DEL

known to be sweet CAUCA

and light, with floral TOLIMA COLOMBI A

and berry notes. Cali

HUILA META Washed Tekisik
Originally from

GUAINÍA El Salvador,
Tekisik is gaining
PACIFIC CAUCA S popularity here.
OCEAN
E GUAVIARE

NARIÑO D

EC
UAD N PUTUMAYO TOLIMA
CAQUETÁ VAUPÉS
NARIÑO Known to supply soft,
O R A sweet coffees with

The southernmost of the AMAZONAS occasional light and
coffee-growing departments, balanced floral notes,
Nariño has gained a reputation BRAZIL the Department of
for its smooth, creamy coffee, Tolima represents about
with stone-fruit overtones, 12 percent of Colombian
though it grows only 3 percent coffee production.

of Colombia’s coffee.

HUILA P E RU KEY

Washed Caturra and Bourbon 12 percent of the coffees from NOTABLE COFFEE-
Both Bourbon and the more Colombia come from the mountains PRODUCING REGIONS
compact Caturra thrive in the in Huila, a region that many hail as
Colombian climate, where most the best in the country. The coffees AREA OF PRODUCTION
farmers grow a mix of varieties. are often fruity, high in acidity, with
a dense texture and a complex flavor. 0 km 200

0 miles 200

96 COFFEES OF THE WORLD

BOLIVIA

There are few known regional flavor profiles in Bolivia,
but coffees can be sweet and balanced, floral and herbal,
or creamy and chocolatey. It is a small coffee-producer
with the potential to grow stunning varieties.

With a coffee culture that includes education and new processing facilities GROWING AND HARVEST
around 23,000 small, family-run near growing regions have improved A lot of Bolivian coffee is organic
farms of 5–20 acres (2–9 hectares) quality, and exporters are starting by default, as growers have little
each, Bolivia consumes around 40 to explore international markets. or no funds for chemicals.
percent of the coffee it produces.
Bolivia mainly grows Arabica
Bolivian coffees have only recently varieties, such as Typica, Caturra,
captured the interest of specialty and Catuai. Coffee grows organically
buyers, as internal challenges of almost everywhere. Main regions
transportation, processing, and lack of production are La Paz provinces,
of technical support make quality such as North and South Yungas,
unpredictable. Most coffee for Franz Tamayo, Caranavi, Inquisivi,
export is shipped out via Peru, as and Larecaja. Harvest times vary,
Bolivia is landlocked, adding to its as they depend on altitudes, rainfall
logistical challenges. Investment in patterns, and temperatures.

BOLIVIAN COFFEE KEY FACTS

LESS THANPERCENTAGE PROCESSES:
OF WORLD
WASHED, SOME NATURAL
0.1%MARKET:
HARVEST:
MAIN TYPES:
JULY–NOVEMBER
ARABICA
CHALLENGES:
TYPICA, CATURRA,
CRIOLLO, CATUAI, CATIMOR UNRELIABLE TRANSPORTATION,
LACK OF PROCESSING EQUIPMENT,
AND TECHNICAL SUPPORT

WORLD RANKING 35th LARGEST COFFEE PRODUCER
AS A PRODUCER:

IN THE WORLD

SOUTH AND CENTRAL AMERICA 97

SOUTH YUNGAS EL BENI
AMERICA
These traditional coffee-growing In the northeast is Bolivia’s
Riberalta areas in La Paz range from second largest department.
PANDO 3,600–6,200ft (1,100–1,900m) Most of it is lowland, but
above sea level and represent 90 some coffee trees can be
percent of Bolivian production. found in the Serrania Eva Eva
Harvest here runs from March and Cerro Pelado mountains
to September. near the border with La Paz.

BRAZIL

PERU Washed Typica
Typica beans are
sometimes known as
“Arabigo” in Bolivia.

YUNGAS

Cord CARANAVI

Lake illera
Titicaca

EL BENI

LA PAZ O r

LA PAZ i e Y u B O L I V I A

A n t a l ng as SANTA CRUZ

lN Cochabamba

p COCHABAMBA
i
t Oruro Santa Cruz

A Roasted Yellow Caturra
Lake Bolivian beans can often
CHILE lano SUCRE withstand a dark roast, but
Poopó sweetness shines through
ORURO when roasted lightly.

Potosí

DES POTOSÍ PARAGUAY

CARANAVI TARIJA Washed Catuai
When roasted lightly,
This is a relatively some Bolivian Catuais
new coffee-growing have fruit and berry notes.
region in La Paz.
Harvest is from March ARGENTINA KEY
to October in altitudes
of 2,620–4,590ft SANTA CRUZ NOTABLE COFFEE-
(800–1,400m) above sea level, PRODUCING REGIONS
and from May to December The largest department in Bolivia is easterly Santa Cruz,
in altitudes of 3,280–6,000ft bordering Brazil and Paraguay. Coffee here generally AREA OF PRODUCTION
(1,000–1,800m) above sea level. grows at lower altitudes around Samaipata and Mairana,
and is usually of a commercial grade. 0 km 200

0 miles 200

98 COFFEES OF THE WORLD

PERU SOUTH COLO NORTHERN
AMERICA
A small number of well-textured, MBIA About 70 percent of
balanced coffees with earthy, ECUADOR Peruvian coffee comes
herbal notes are produced in Peru. from the north, where
new Arabica is planted.
Most coffee is organic.

Despite its high-quality TUMBES Iquitos
coffees, Peru faces problems of LORETO
inconsistent standards. A major
cause is the lack of internal PIURA AMAZONAS
logistics, but the government
continues to invest in education LAMBAYEQUE NORTHERN
and infrastructure, such as
roads, as well as in new growing CAJAMARCA
areas—especially in the north,
where new Arabica is grown. CENTRAL SAN MARTÍN U BRAZIL Washed Caturra
LA LIBERTAD When well processed,
Peru mainly grows varieties High altitudes of roasted Peruvian beans
of Arabica, such as Typica, 3,900–6,560ft (1,200– P E RTrujillo are clean and sweet.
Bourbon, and Caturra.
Around 90 percent of the 2,000m) above sea level ANCASH
coffee is grown on around produce largely organic HUÁNUCO
120,000 small farms, most of
them cultivating approximately coffees with soft acidity and PASCO UCAYALI
5 acres (2 hectares) each. well-structured textures.

C CENTRAL

Washed Caturra, CALLAO A JUNÍN Co MADRE
Typica, Bourbon LIMAord DE DIOS
CUSCO
i ra

l r

N d i l
ler
l
While normally grown and a e

sold as a mix, if Peruvian D Orien BOLIVIA
Oc OUTHERN

c

varieties were separated out i

d E
nt
e A P URÍMAC t
CUCHO
it could add significant value. ICA alS S a l
AYA

PUNO

PERUVIAN COFFEE AREQUIPA
Arequipa
PERCENTAGE MAIN TYPES: Lake
OF WORLD MOQUEGUA Titicaca
ARABICA
3%MARKET: TACNA
TYPICA, BOURBON,
HARVEST: CATURRA, PACHE, SOUTHERN CHILE
CATIMOR
MAY–SEPTEMBER This is the smallest coffee-
growing region in Peru. Most of
PROCESS: the coffees are sold in bulk or
through cooperatives, making
WASHED it difficult to trace them.

KEY

WORLD RANKING AS A PRODUCER: NOTABLE COFFEE-
PRODUCING REGIONS
9th LARGEST COFFEE
PRODUCER IN THE WORLD AREA OF PRODUCTION

0 km 300

0 miles 300