Fish Grilled & Smoked

browning.
If you do not have fresh cherries, substitute dried cherries and reconstitute

them in rum for several minutes before using.

Dough for four 10-inch pizzas (see page 39) increasing the amount of sugar
to 2 tablespoons

1 cup sugar
¾ cup almonds
2 egg whites
1½ cups pitted and thinly sliced nectarines
1 cup pitted and quartered plums
¾ cup pitted and halved fresh cherries
2 tablespoons unsalted butter, cut into small pieces
1 tablespoon flour
1 teaspoon ground cinnamon
1 teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg
Zest of 1 lemon (about 3 tablespoons)
Handful of flour and cornmeal mixture (about ¼ cup each)
Ginger ice cream
Pure maple syrup

1. Pulse the ¾ cup of the sugar, the almonds, and egg whites in the bowl of a
food processor for about 30 seconds, or until thoroughly blended. Set aside.

2. Toss together the nectarines, plums, cherries, the remaining sugar, and the
butter, flour, cinnamon, nutmeg, and zest in a large bowl. Set aside.

3. Preheat a grill.

4. Sprinkle a pastry or cutting board with the flour and cornmeal mixture. Roll
out four circles of the dough. Make them about 1/8 inch thick and 10 inches in
circumference.

5. Draw an imaginary line across the center of each dough circle. Spread the egg
mixture over the side closest to you, keeping it 1 inch from the edge. Spread the
fruit mixture on top of the egg mixture.

6. Carefully lift and fold the untopped dough over the ingredients, pinch the
edges tight all around, and trim with a knife. Brush top and bottom with oil and
gently place inside an oiled grill basket.
7. Lay the pocket on a gas grill, reduce the heat to medium, and close the cover.
Cook 8 to 10 minutes. Turn and cook 8 to 10 minutes longer, or until lightly
browned. If using charcoal, move most of the off to the sides and place the grill
basket in the center. With charcoal, cook for 6 to 8 minutes on each side.
8. Remove the Wellingtons from the grill basket and serve immediately with the
ice cream and the maple syrup.

SERVES 4

The River Spey

I WAS ONLY A BIT SURPRISED when Alasdair Little opened the door
wearing a kilt. Well, we were in Scotland. He was dressed appropriately in his

clan’s colors. He was the owner and host of the Culdearn House, a B&B where
we were about to stay in Grantown-on-Spey.

Alasdair wandered about the dining room that first evening, delivering
guests their choice of some 45 local single-malt scotches and eventually dinner.
The inn offered some of the best meals we enjoyed in a country that is
centuries old and in some parts still dining in the shadow of those food
concepts.

I was here to fish, though …on one of the most famous salmon rivers in the
world, the river Spey. But no guidebook fully prepares one for salmon fishing
in Scotland.

“First you need a permit,” a local guide informed me. “The association
might have a beat available. This is the slow season, not many fishermen
around.”

The Strathspey Angling Association booked from Mortimer’s Outfitters and
Fly Shop in town. It was a convenient location from which to book fishing
permits, at $150 per beat.

My minuscule 7-food 6-inch Orvis trout rod must have appeared as a child’s
toy to the locals, compared to the 20-foot Spey rods traditionally used on these
waters. I eventually rented a rod, waders, and everything else I needed to
command the challenging Spey.

That evening, casting with what felt like a telephone pole out across the
river, I looked up to the snowcapped Cairngorm Mountains. The Spey flowed
swiftly past my waders, holding treacherously deep pools that I avoided. My
arms quickly tired from the unfamiliar casting technique and I soon felt the
strain in my shoulders from wielding such a hefty rod. Scottish author and
ghillie Crawford Little (no relation to Alasdair) warns in his fishing guidebook:
“The Spey should not be seen as a river for the inexperienced, elderly or
infirm.” I wasn’t inexperienced, elderly, or infirm and I didn’t care if my arms
fell off. I was finally fishing the river Spey.

The next morning a heavy mist parted, the mountains emerged, and I was
off once again, after Isobel Little’s breakfast, fit for a Loch Ness monster’s
appetite.

Donning my waxed waterproof jacket — looking the part, I hoped —
casting my Spey rod and carrying a brilliant array of Jungle Cock Shrimp,
Munro Killers, Stoats Tails, and purple Haywood flies, I somehow felt
accomplished. Perhaps not as a fisherman (I did not catch any fish), but for
having tried. I had come all this way and certainly could not go home without

having at least tried.

“Did you enjoy your time on the Spey?” Carole inquired as we drove back
on the wrong side of the road to the B&B.

“Yes, I did.”

“Even though you didn’t catch anything?”

“Sure. It doesn’t matter if a fisherman catches anything,” I explained.
“People fish for relaxation, too. To unwind, enjoy the great outdoors, the
scenery, and the wildlife. The mountains back there were spectacular. There is
more to fishing than catching fish. Fishing is an excuse to enter nature’s
window, ponder the ecological importance of our role in the scheme of things,
to see, close up, the insect world, and harmonize with the plant and aquatic life.
It enables one to philosophize about life’s balances and imbalances, consider
man’s obligation and contribution to the planet, and consider what we need to
give back.” I babbled on. “I didn’t come here just for the fishing. There is more
to life, you know.”

Back at the Culdearn House, Isobel Little considerately served a freshly
poached salmon for dinner. Out of sympathy, I guessed.

Acknowledgments

Many thanks for all the help that went into this publication: Andrea Dodge, my
quick-as-a-whip, always cheerful editor; Kent Lew, for his masterful artist’s
outlook; Jennifer Jepson Smith, creative graphic designer, and all the terrific,
forward-thinking staff at Storey Publishing on MASS MoCA Way; Mason Rose,
for allowing us to publish blueprints for his “designer” smokehouse; Mike
White, for his well of construction advice; Lawrence Bach, meteorologist at the
U.S. National Weather Service in Albany, New York, for checking my weather-
related facts; Larry Burke, for his fresh publicity photos; Felicia Sprott, from
Guido’s Marketplace, for modeling her dexterous hands; Louis Blanchett, for
modeling his hands in a chilly Quebec outpost; and all those people who tasted
test recipes, whether they liked them or not.

Eternal gratitude to an altruistic group of people without whose combined as
well as individual efforts I would never have been motivated enough to get up,
move on, and, ultimately, make this book—their heartfelt encouragement came
in all the right doses at all the right times: Carole Clark, Laurie Norton Moffat,
Craig Moffat, Liz Foley, Jim Williamson, Peter Bergman, Deb Tibenski, Jeff
Rigby, Lou Blanchett, Sandy Rup, Laura Chester, Carol Gullickson, Marc
Manikowske, John Leibowitz, Marianne Swan, Jon Swan, Jane Burke, Don
Goudey, Carolyn Bell, and all the caring people on the outside looking in.

And a warm thanks to my fellow editors in the rural suite of the New
Marlborough 5 Village News for keeping my name on the masthead; and finally,
to the loyal members of my Tuesday Writer’s Group, Peter Bergman, Peg
Dietemann, Virginia Finn, Paul Marino, Virginia Rowe, and Rosemary Starace,
all of whom stayed with me during the critical time of my…sabbatical. Thanks
for being there.



Bibliography

Brillat-Savarin, Jean Anthelme. Physiologie du gout (Flammarion, Paris, 1982).
Claiborne, Craig. The New York Times Cookbook (Harper & Row, 1961).
Davidson, Alan. The Penguin Companion to Food (Penguin, 2002).
Fisher, M. F. K. The Art of Eating (Macmillan, 1937).
Kurlansky, Mark. Salt (Penguin, 2003).
Lang, Jenifer Harvey, editor. Larousse Gastronomique (Crown, 1988).
McGee, Harold. On Food and Cooking: The Science and Lore of the Kitchen
(Scribners, 1984).
Toussaint-Samat, Maguelonne. History of Food (Blackwell, 1992).
The list of the following out-of-print cookbook sources is courtesy of James T.
Ehler, webmaster, cook, chef, writer, of Key West, Florida. His Web sites are
listed under Resources.
Eliza Acton. Modern Cookery for Private Families (1845).
Catherine E. Beecher. Miss Beecher’s Domestic Receipt-Book (1846).
Fannie Merritt Farmer. The Boston Cooking-School Cook Book (Boston, 1896).
Charles Elme Francatelli. A Plain Cookery Book For The Working Classes
(London, 1861).
Mrs. Glasse. The Art of Cookery Made Plain and Easy; Excelling Any Thing of
the Kind Ever Yet Published. (1747).
Lafcadio Hearn. La Cuisine Creole (1885).

Eliza Leslie. Miss Leslie’s Directions for Cookery (1851).
Mrs. D. A. Lincoln. Mrs. Lincoln’s Boston Cook Book (1884).

Resources

www.johnmanikowski.com Here you’ll find quotes about the outdoors and
more of my artwork, essays, and recipes.

Outdoor grills and smokers, home products, and commercial
equipment

www.biggreenegg.com Largest manufacturer of Kamado-style smoker/grills.
The functional design is sleek and loved by many. 800-793-2292

www.broilmaster.com Makes grills and accompanying equipment.

www.cabelas.com Manufacturers of quality gear and equipment for outdoors
enthusiasts and culinary-minded campers. Grills, water smokers, and outdoor
gear. Often priced lower than competitors, with tolerant warrantees. 800-237-
4444

www.charbroil.com CharBroil LLC Sells combo gas/charcoal grills. 866-239-
6777

www.coleman.com Manufacturers of outdoor camping and cooking equipment.
Maker of the enameled smoke pan that I recommend for smoke grilling. 800-
835-3278

www.cookshack.com Sells a line of commercial smokers plus seasonings and
other products. 800-423-0698

www.dcsappliances.com The DCS company offers durable, professional
cooking equipment. Has built-in infrared heaters in back of many models.
888-936-7872

www.ducane.com A builder of quality outdoor cooking equipment. 800-382-
2637

www.jennair.com This company developed an exhaust system for in-kitchen
grilling that works. 800-536-6247

www.kamado.com Japanese design of highly effective smoker and grill. Can
reach high temperatures for grilling using charcoal or electric elements. 877-
257-6871

www.mortonsalt.com The maker of household salt also makes a meat pump for
injecting brine. 800-789-7258

www.oxo.com Maker of OXO Good Grips tools. 800-545-4411

www.sears.com Durable, reliable grills for any budget. Sears’s warranties are
usually worth the extra expense. 800-697-3277

www.thebrinkmanncorp.com A reliable company that produces upright,
torpedo-shaped smokers and more. 800-468-5252

www.vikingrange.com Viking has made professional-level grills, stoves, and
ovens for decades. Now it has expanded into the outdoor realm. 888-845-
4641

www.weber.com A manufacturer of grills and smokers, this is a reliable
company with quality products. 800-446-1071

Wood chunks, chips, and related products for use in a smoker

www.bbcharcoal.com A Texas firm offering lump charcoal as well as wood.
361-865-3444

www.bbqrsdelight.com An Arkansas company selling a good variety of chips
and chunks for smoking. 877-275-9591

Fish and food concerns

seafood.ucdavis.edu University of California, Davis, has much legal and
technical information concerning fresh and smoked fish: guidelines and
recommendations for safe handling, cooking, and smoking.

www.cfast.vt.edu Commercial Fish & Shellfish Technologies Program at
Virginia Tech. Lots of results of studies, marine biology reports, and so on.

www.fda.gov Food and Drug Administration. It is the one government agency
responsible for “regulating the treatment of fish from its journey from the
catch to the table.” Check out the Fish Encyclopedia, everything you’ve ever
wanted to know about more than 150 species, and much more.

www.foodreference.com Good source for food-related information of all kinds,
including historical recipes.

www.nmfs.noaa.gov National Marine Fisheries. Good information on
endangered species.

www.uaf.edu/coop-ext University of Alaska Fairbanks Cooperative Extension
Service.

Fish and spices

www.hatchsfishmarket.com
Hatch’s Fish Market An institution in Wellfleet, Massachusetts 508-349-2810
www.atlanticspice.com A good source for Mexican oregano and other herbs and

spices 800-316-7565

Index

Page numbers in italic indicate illustrations.

A
Accompaniments. See Condiments; Desserts; Drinks; Sauces; Side dishes
Acton, Eliza, 121
Aïoli, 227–28
Aïoli, Saffron Fish Stew with, 140–41
Air circulation and smoking fish, 188–89, 190
Albacore. See Tuna
Aluminum baking pans, 15
Aluminum foil, 15, 20
Aluminum grate caution, grills, 12
American Heart Association, 2
Anatomy of fish, 4
Anchovies, health benefits, 2
Apache Trout, Smoked, 64
Appetizers, 23–42

Curried Trout Timbales, 31
Fish Drop Soup, 25
Gravad and Smoked Salmon with Cilantro-Mint Rub, 40
Quenelles, 24
Rosemary-Smoked Herring, 27
Bluefish Smoked over Fennel, 26

Smoked Bonito with Green
Sauce, 28
Smoked Gravlax, 41
Smoked Sable, 42
Smoked Salmon Pâté, 29
Smoked Salmon Pizza with Mixed Wild Mushrooms, 38, 38–39
Smoked Salmon Spread, 30
Smoked Shad Roe-Potato Balls, 36
Smoked Whitefish with Stir-Fried Shiitakes and Green Tomatoes, 37
Tickled Pink Oysters, 32
Apple cider vinegar for salads, 168
Aprons, 16
Artichoke (Jerusalem), White Bean, and Mango Salad with Cold Sea Bass, 174
Art of Cookery Made Plain and Easy: Excelling Any Thing of the Kind Ever Yet
Published, The (Glasse), 229
Asian diet, 2
Asparagus and Romesco Sauce with Sea Bass (Patagonian Wellington), 164,
164–65
Aspirin and corn, 197
Asthma and fish, 2
Atitlán volcano, 132

B
Bacterial growth, 3, 7, 8, 189
Balsamic Blueberry Sauce, 109
Balsamic Cherry Sauce, 73
Balsamic vinegar for salads, 167, 168
Balsamic Vinegar Marinade, 222
Bananas Foster, 237
Barbecuing (hot smoking), 7, 8, 182, 190
Barometric pressure variable, smoking fish, 188
Barrel smokers, 187
Basic Curing Solution, 198
Basic Salsa, 233
Basil and Tomato with Bluefish, 89

Bass
Indonesian Wellington (a Cultural Blend of Sea Bass with Peanuts, Soy
Sauce, and Tamarind), 160–61
New York Wellington with East Coast Stripers, 148–49
Patagonian Wellington (Sea Bass with Asparagus and Romesco Sauce), 164,
164–65
Sea Bass in Foil with Chickpeas and Mint, 90
Smallmouth Bass Wrapped in Cornhusks, Grilled, 53
Smoked Butterflied Largemouth Bass, 63
Striped Bass with Cattail Shoots and Morels, 86
Striped Bass with Curried Shrimp Sauce, 88
White Bean, Mango, and Jerusalem Artichoke Salad with Cold Sea Bass, 174

Bass and Guns, 131–33, 132–33
Beaujolais-Villages, 234

Beer
corn and, 197
drink for fish dishes, 235

Berkshire Brookie Spring Wellingtons (a Spring Harvest of Brook Trout,
Watercress, and Fiddleheads), 152–53, 153

Beurre Blanc
Lemon Beurre Blanc, 227
Tarragon Beurre Blanc, 76–77

Big Green Egg, The, 186
Big Sky Country (The West), 33–35, 33–35
Black cod (sable)

Black Cod with Minted Orange Sorbet Sauce, 81
Smoked Sable, 42
smoking favorite, 194
Blanchette, Lou, 202–3

Blood oranges
Blood Orange Salad, 224–25
Tuna Steaks and Blood Oranges in Foil, 83

Blueberry Balsamic Sauce, 109

Bluefish
Bluefish Smoked over Fennel, 26
Bluefish with Tomato and Basil, 89
Fennel-Smoked Bluefish with Blueberry Balsamic Sauce, 109
smoking favorite, 194

Bluegill, Sunnies Dijon, 48
Bob Marshall Wilderness, 35
Boiling trout, 65
Boletus (cepes) and Salmon Kebabs, 75

Bonito
fishing for, 207, 209
Smoked Bonito with Green Sauce, 28

Boston Cooking School Cook Book, 163
Bouillabaisse, 134, 135
Bourbon and corn, 197
Bourbon Cure, 199
Bourride, 134
Bridger, Jim, 35
Brining, 8, 189, 191
Brinkmann, 187
Briquettes, smoker fuel, 186
British Thermal Unit (BTU)

grills, 12
smokers, 186
Brook Trout, Watercress, Fiddleheads Spring Harvest (Berkshire Brookie Spring
Wellingtons), 152–53, 153
Bryant, Nelson, 148
BTU. See British Thermal Unit
Buffalo, Big Sky Country, 34
Bull, Bob Black, 34
Burbot (Smoked) with Wild Mushrooms, Plum & Mint Sauce, 57
Burgers, Grilled Tuna, 84
Burgundy wine, 234
Buridda, 134

Burners
grills, 12
smokers, 185

Butterflied Largemouth Bass, Smoked, 63
Butterflied Trout, Grilled, 49

Butters
Dill Butter, 226–27
Lemon-Tarragon Butter, 226
Rose Butter, 226
Tarragon Butter, 227
Tomato and Tarragon-Chive Butter, 127

C
C. botulinum, 3, 189
Cacciucco, 134
Cairngorm Mountains, 240
Calamari Peanut Salad, 170–71
Calcium from fish, 3
Carambola (starfruit), Papaya, and Yellowtail Salad, 175
Carangidae, 104
Carbonated beverages and corn, 197
Caspian Sea sturgeon, dwindling, 194
Cast-iron pans, 14–15, 21

Catfish
Catfish Wrapped in Collard Greens, 47
Zydeco Wellington (Louisiana Catfish), 162–63

Cattail shoots
preparing, 87, 87
Shad, Wild Chicory, and Cattail-Shoot Salad, 177
Striped Bass with Cattail Shoots and Morels, 86

Caudal fin (tail), 4
Cedar shake for flavoring, 22
Celeriac and Turmeric with Yum-Yum Yogurt, 228
Cepes (Boletus) and Salmon Kebabs, 75
Champagne Sauce, 130
Char Boil, 186

Charcoal grills
grilling fish with, 12, 13–14
smoke grilling with, 185–86

Chardonnay Sorghum Cure, 200
Cheeses for salads, 168

Cherries
Cherry Balsamic Sauce, 73
Dried Cherry and Pear Sauce, 66–67
Nectarine, Plum, and Cherry Wellington, 238–39

Chervil Pink Peppercorn Cream, 228
Chickpeas and Mint with Sea Bass, 90
Chicory (Wild), Cattail-Shoot, and Shad Salad, 177
Chiles, Lime, and Red Snapper (Key West Wellington, Sunset Pier–Style), 147
Chimney starters, 17, 21
Chinook (Columbia River) with Cherry Balsamic Sauce, 73
Chive, Tomato and Tarragon Butter, 127
Chowders. See also Stews and chowders

Salmon and Corn Chowder, 137
Salt Cod Chowda with Grilled Fish and Vegetables, 142–43

Chub
health benefits, 2
smoking favorite, 193

Chutney, Papa’s Papaya, 232
Cider Vinaigrette, 48

Cilantro
Gravad and Smoked Salmon with Cilantro-Mint Rub, 40
Sautéed Cucumbers with Cilantro, 225

Citrus zest for salads, 168
Cleaning tips. See also Preparing fish

grills, 12, 13, 17
shrimp, 121

Coconut
Coconut-Lime Sauce, 230
Grilled Halibut in Coconut Milk and Soy Sauce, 78–79

Cod
Cod with Puttanesca Sauce and Leeks, 99
Grilled Seafood Sausages, 98–99
Salt Cod Chowda with Grilled Fish and Vegetables, 142–43

Coffeehouse and Tilapia Stuffing, 82–83
Coho, Hoisin-Grilled, 74
Cold and Pulaski, New York, 113–15, 115
Cold smoke, 7, 182, 190
Coleman, 14
Collard Greens, Catfish Wrapped in, 47
Color of fish and cooking safely, 8
Columbia River Chinook with Cherry Balsamic Sauce, 73
Condiments, 226–33. See also Sauces Aïoli, 227–28

Basic Salsa, 233
Dill Butter, 226–27
Lemon-Tarragon Butter, 226
Lemony Corn Salsa, 233
Mango Cucumber Salsa, 233
Papa’s Papaya Chutney, 232
Rose Butter, 226
Tarragon Butter, 227
Tomato and Tarragon-Chive Butter, 127
Conifer woods, avoiding for smoking fish, 181, 182
Conservation of fish, 1–2, 194
Consumer Reports, 11
Control switches for burners, 12
Cooking fish safely, 7–8. See also Fish; Grilling fish; Preparing fish; Smoking
fish bacterial growth, 3, 7, 8, 189
brines and, 8, 189, 191
cold smoke, 7, 182, 190
color and, 8
dinner table, cooking fish at, 1
direct smoke grilling, 7
edges of fish and, 8
histamine poisoning, 8
hot smoking (barbecuing), 7, 8, 182, 190

immune systems (weakened) caution, 8
indirect smoke grilling, 7, 14
liver disorders caution, 8
marinades and, 8
recommendations, 8
refrigeration importance, 3, 6, 8, 190
scromboid poisoning, 8
serving fish, 8
shellfish, 8
smoke grilling, 7–8
temperature for, 7, 8, 12, 185
timing, adjusting according to grill, 12, 21
transferring fish, 8
Cooking sprays to prevent sticking, 14, 17, 145
Cool, dry conditions for smoking fish, 188–89
Cooling fish after smoking, 190, 191, 192

Corn
Grilled Smallmouth Bass Wrapped in Cornhusks, 53
Lemony Corn Salsa, 233
Salmon and Corn Chowder, 137
Smoked Corn on the Cob, 220

Corn, history of, 196–97
Corn-fired grills, 13
Corn-fired stoves, 18–19
Corn kernels, smoker fuel, 183, 184
Cornmeal Dough, 145, 146, 151
Corn oil, 197
Corn-Smoked Lobster, 117
Corn-Smoked Lobster Salad, 169
Corn smoking, 18–22, 184
Crabs (Soft-Shell), Spicy Grilled, 125
Crappie, Sunnies Dijon, 48
Cream, Pink Peppercorn Chervil, 228
Croaker, Smoked, 105

Cucumbers
Mango Cucumber Salsa, 233
salad option, 168
Sautéed Cucumbers with Cilantro, 225

Culdearn House (Scotland), 240, 241
Curing solutions, 189, 191, 198–200
Curried Grilled Pompano, 85
Curried Shrimp Sauce, 88
Curried Trout Timbales, 31
Curry paste, 173
Curry Sauce, 231
Custom-made smokers, 187

Cutting tips
fillets, 3–4, 5–6, 5–6
steaks, 6, 6

D
Deciduous trees, smoker fuel, 182
Deer in Thousand Acre Lake, 68–70, 69
Desserts, 237–39

Bananas Foster, 237
Grilled Fruit with Orange Flower Water Syrup, 237–38
Grilled Marinated Pineapple and Mango, 238
Nectarine, Plum, and Cherry Wellington, 238–39
Dessert wines, 235–36
DHA (docosahexaenoic acid) from fish, 2
Dijon, Sunnies, 48

Dill
Dill Butter, 226–27
Dill Mustard Sauce, 231
Peppered Dill Rub, 201
Dips. See Sauces

Directions for Cookery (Leslie), 65
Direct smoke grilling, 7
Disposable aluminum baking pans, 15
Docosahexaenoic acid (DHA) from fish, 2

Dough
Cornmeal Dough, 145, 146, 151
non-rising pizza dough, 39
Spaetzle, 225
Wellingtons, dough for, 144–45

Drawers, smokers, 185

Dressings
Cider Vinaigrette, 48
Orange Flower Water Dressing, 172

Dried Cherry and Pear Sauce, 66–67
Dried corn kernels, smoker fuel, 183, 184
Dried Mushroom–Pumpkin Seed Rub, 56
Drinks, 234–36

Beaujolais-Villages, 234
beer, 235
burgundy wine, 234
dessert wines, 235–36
Gin Rickey, 236
Lemonade, 235, 236
Lime Margaritas, 236
Mango Liquadas, 236
matching flavors, 234–35
mead, 236
Muscadet, 234
Muscat, 235
Pinot Gris, 234
Pinot Noir, 234, 235
red wine, 234, 235
Riesling, 235
salads and, 235
Sauternes, 236
smoked foods and, 235
Soave, 235
Vouvray, 235
white wine, 234, 235
wine, 234, 235–36
Drying and reconstituting mushrooms, 58–59
Drying fish before preparing, 4
Dumplings (Quenelles), 24
Dwindling populations of fish, 1–2, 194

E
East Coast Stripers, New York Wellington with, 148–49
Edges of fish and cooking safely, 8
Eggplant (Marinated), Grilled, 225
Eggs (Scrambled) with Smoked Shad Milt, 61
Eicosapentaenoic acid from fish, 2
Electric coils, 21
Electric smokers, 184–85
Ethanol, 197
Eumycota, 55
Exotic woods, avoiding for smoking fish, 183
Extra-virgin olive oil for salads, 167, 168

F
Fat content of fish and smoking, 193, 194
Fava Beans, Purée of, 224
FDA. See Food and Drug Administration

Fennel
Bluefish Smoked over Fennel, 26
Fennel-Smoked Bluefish with Blueberry Balsamic Sauce, 109
Yellowtail Smoked over Fennel, 104

Fertilizers and corn, 197
Feta Cheese, Olives, and Tomatoes with Red Mullet (Mediterranean Wellington),

166

Fiddlehead ferns
Berkshire Brookie Spring Wellingtons (a Spring Harvest of Brook Trout,
Watercress, and Fiddleheads), 152–53, 153
Fiddlehead Fern Salad with Orange Roughy and Orange Flower Water
Dressing, 172
Smoked Salmon Frittata with Fiddleheads and Morels, 110, 110–11

Fillet glove, 4
Filleting fish, 3–4, 5–6, 5–6
Findon “Finnan” (Scotland), 180
Fireproof container, 15
Fish, 1–8. See also Cooking fish safely; Grilling fish; Preparing fish; Smoking

fish anatomy of fish, 4
ancient societies and, 1
asthma and, 2
bacterial growth, 3, 7, 8, 189
conservation of, 1–2, 194
docosahexaenoic acid (DHA) from, 2
dwindling populations of, 1–2, 194
eicosapentaenoic acid from, 2
flesh (firm and shiny) and freshness of fish, 3
freshness of fish, guidelines, 3
frozen seafood, guidelines, 3
gills (bright red, not slimy) and freshness of fish, 3
“good fats” from, 2, 90
health benefits, 2, 3
heart disease and, 2
management of, 1–2
mercury caution, 3, 193
omega-3 fatty acids from, 2, 90
refrigeration importance, 3, 6, 8, 190
selecting fish, guidelines, 3
selection for smoking, 193–95
shellfish, guidelines, 3
smell and freshness of fish, 3
species of, 1
vitamins (A, C, D, E) from, 3

weekly serving, recommendation, 2, 3, 193
Fish Drop Soup, 25
Fisherman’s Stew, 136
Fish salads. See Salads
Fish Stock, 141
Fish Wellingtons. See Wellingtons
Flavoring tips, grilling fish, 22
Flesh (firm and shiny) and freshness of fish, 3
Flies for fishing, 33, 33, 35
“Fog” of volatile oils and smoking, 188
Food and Drug Administration (FDA)

cold smoking recommendation, 190
cooking fish safely, 8
gutting recommendation, 5
mercury caution, 2–3, 193
nitrates and nitrites usage, 191
salt and smoking fish, 189
Freshness of fish, guidelines, 3
Freshwater fish, 46–67
Catfish Wrapped in Collard Greens, 47
Grilled Butterflied Trout, 49
Grilled Freshwater Perch with Blood Orange Salad, 51
Grilled Smallmouth Bass Wrapped in Cornhusks, 53
Grilled Walleye with Grapes and Shaggy Mane Mushrooms, 54
Smoked Lake Trout with Olive-Mustard Sauce, 52
Scrambled Eggs with Smoked Shad Milt, 61
Smoked Apache Trout, 64
Smoked Burbot with Wild Mushrooms, Plum, & Mint Sauce, 57
Smoked Butterflied Largemouth Bass, 63
Smoked Pike with Dried
Cherry and Pear Sauce, 66, 66–67
Smoked Rainbow Trout, 65
Smoked Walleye with Red Pepper Sauce, 60–61
Smoked Yellow Perch in Grapefruit Marinade, 67
smoking favorites, 193
Steelhead Trout in Red Wine Sauce, 50–51

Sunnies Dijon, 48
Walleye Hash Browns, 62
Walleye Smoked with a Dried Mushroom–Pumpkin Seed Rub, 56
Frittata (Smoked Salmon) with Fiddleheads and Morels, 110, 110–11
Frozen seafood, guidelines, 3
Fruit (Grilled) with Orange
Flower Water Syrup, 237–38
Fruitwood, smoker fuel, 182, 183
Fuel for smokers, 182–84, 186
Fulton Fish Market (New York), 193

G
Gadgets, grilling, 17
Galangal (Thai ginger), 85, 168, 229
Garlic (fresh) for salads, 168

Gas grills
grilling fish, 11–12, 13, 14
smoking fish, 185, 186

Gazpacho with Smoked Shad, 102–3
Gills (bright red, not slimy) and freshness of fish, 3

Ginger
Ginger Soy Sauce, 232
salad option, 168

Gin Rickey, 236
Golden bass or golden snapper (tilefish), mercury caution, 3, 193
“Good fats” from fish, 2, 90

Grapefruit
Grapefruit Marinade, 67
Grapefruit Salad with Smoked Whitefish, 178

Grapes and Shaggy Mane Mushrooms with Grilled Walleye, 54
Grapevines, smoker fuel, 182, 183
Grated cheeses for salads, 168

Grates
grills, 12
smokers, 185

Gravad and Smoked Salmon with Cilantro-Mint Rub, 40
Gravlax, Smoked, 41
Green Papaya and Mahi-Mahi Salad, 173
Green Sauce, 28, 230–31
Green Tomatoes and Mushrooms with Smoked Whitefish, Stir-Fried, 37
Grill basket for Wellingtons, 145
Grilled Butterflied Trout, 49
Grilled Curried Pompano, 85
Grilled Fish and Vegetables, Salt Cod Chowda with, 142–43
Grilled Freshwater Perch with Blood Orange Salad, 51
Grilled Fruit with Orange Flower Water Syrup, 237–38
Grilled Halibut in Coconut Milk and Soy Sauce, 78–79
Grilled-Hoisin Coho, 74
Grilled Lobster with Tomato and Tarragon-Chive Butter, 127
Grilled Marinated Eggplant, 225
Grilled Marinated Pineapple and Mango, 238
Grilled Mediterranean Pizza with Shrimp, 126
Grilled Oranges with Scallop and Shrimp Kebabs, 124–25
Grilled Red Onions, 220
Grilled Scallops in Champagne Sauce, 130
Grilled Seafood Sausages, 98–99
Grilled Shad with Morels, 92
Grilled Shrimp, 120–21
Grilled Smallmouth Bass Wrapped in Cornhusks, 53
Grilled Spicy Soft-Shell Crabs, 125
Grilled Stuffed Sesame Squid, 128–29
Grilled Tomatoes Marinated in Balsamic Vinegar, 222
Grilled Tuna Burgers, 84
Grilled Walleye with Grapes and Shaggy Mane Mushrooms, 54
Grilled Wild King Salmon with Smoked Lobster–Tarragon Beurre Blanc, 76–77,

77
Grilling fish, 9–22. See also Appetizers; Condiments; Cooking fish safely;

Desserts; Drinks; Fish; Freshwater fish; Grills; Preparing fish; Salads;

Saltwater fish; Sauces; Shellfish; Side dishes; Stews and chowders;
Wellingtons aluminum baking pans (disposable), 15
aluminum foil (heavy-duty), 15, 20
aprons, 16
cast-iron pans, 14–15, 21
chimney starters, 17, 21
cleaning tips, 12, 13, 17
cooking sprays to prevent sticking, 14, 17, 145
corn-fired stoves, 18–19
corn smoking, 18–22, 184
disposable aluminum baking pans, 15
electric coils, 21
fireproof container, 15
flavoring tips, 22
gadgets, 17
grill pan, 14–15, 20
metal skewers, 16
metal spatulas, 16
mitts, 16
perforated grilling pans, 16
planning for, 14
preheating grills, 13–14
skewers, 16–17, 75
smoke pan, 14–15, 20, 21
soft smoke, 18–22
spatulas, 16
sticking, preventing, 13, 14, 145
tongs, 16
tools for, 14–17
towels, 16
water for, 17
wire brushes, 17
wire-mesh basket, 15, 145
wok, 16
wooden skewers, 16
Grill pan, 14–15, 20

Grills, 10–14. See also Grilling fish aluminum grate caution, 12
British Thermal Unit (BTU) output, 12
burners, 12
charcoal grills, 12, 13–14
cleaning tips, 12, 13, 17
control switches for burners, 12
cooking sprays to prevent sticking, 14, 17, 145
cooking timing, adjusting according to grill, 12, 21
corn-fired grills, 13
corn-fired stoves, 18–19
gas grills, 11–12, 13, 14
grates, 12
heat, 12
hibachis, 10, 11, 13
ice chest and pop-up grill, 14
igniting charcoal, 13, 14, 21
indirect smoke grilling, 7, 14
lighter fluid, 13, 21
pellet-fired grills, 13, 18
“perfect” grill, 11–12
pop-up grill and ice chest, 14
preheating grills, 13–14
professional, 12
pull-out bottom tray, 12
raising/lowering heat source of grates, 12–13
referrals for, 11
resources for, 11, 244
smoke grilling and, 7–8, 12, 14
square inches of grilling space, 12
sticking, preventing, 13, 14, 145
wood pellet-fired grills, 13, 18

Grouper with Tandoori Sauce in Foil Pouches, 91
Guns and Bass, 131–33, 132–33
Gutting fish, 5, 5

H
Haddies, 180

Halibut
Grilled Halibut in Coconut Milk and Soy Sauce, 78–79
health benefits, 2

Hamachi. See Yellowtail (hamachi)
Hardwood, smoker fuel, 182–83, 184
Hash Browns, Walleye, 62
Hatch’s Fish and Produce Market (Massachusetts), 130
Head of fish, removing, 5, 5
Health benefits of fish, 2, 3
Heart disease and fish, 2
Hearts of palm for salads, 168
Heat, grills, 12
Heavy-duty aluminum foil, 15, 20
Hemingway, Ernest, 95
Herbs for flavoring, 22