Hedge Guide Part 1: Planning and planting a new hedge
Ulster Wildlife Trust
Guide to Planning and
Planting a New Hedge for
Wildlife
Hedge Guide Part 1: Planning and planting a new hedge
Hedges in Northern Ireland…
The patchwork landscape of fields surrounded by high hedgerows is a traditional and
familiar feature of Northern Ireland’s countryside. Although man-made, hedges can be
described as linear strips of woodland. They are vital habitats for wildlife and important for
the visual quality of the landscape. Originally intended as fences and boundary markers,
hedges have gradually become ‘naturalised’ and now form a major component of the rural
environment. Many date from the 18th and 19th century, but some originate from Tudor
times.
Hawthorn, a native shrub, was chosen as the most popular hedging plant because it can
form a dense, stockproof hedge in a short period of time. Other trees and shrubs have
gradually colonised older hedgerows, making them particularly important from a
biodiversity point of view.
Whilst most hedges in Northern Ireland contain hawthorn and ash, hedge style and
composition varies in different parts of the country, helping to add local character and
distinctiveness to an area. For example, upland areas in the Mournes and Sperrins will
often have gorse hedges, whilst fuchsia is a common hedge species in coastal regions of
Down and Antrim. In Fermanagh, the traditional hedge mix is hawthorn, willow and
blackthorn.
Hedges and Wildlife…
Hedges are valuable wildlife habitats in their own right, the combination of shrubs, trees
and hedge bottom vegetation providing food and shelter for an enormous range of
animals, from the smallest insects to top predators like barn owls. Our network of hedges
thus represents an extremely important resource, especially when we consider that it
occupies more land than all of our nature reserves put together.
The term ‘wildlife corridor’ is often applied to hedges, as they serve to link up wild areas,
and provide a means by which both plants and animals can move between habitats.
Hedges are refuges for many of our woodland and
wayside flowers. You will often see bluebells,
primroses and violets growing in the shade of a hedge,
and grassy hedge bottoms are home to colourful
vetches, stitchworts and taller herbs.
Tussocks of grass and tall herbs are important over-
wintering sites for invertebrates and also provide good
breeding conditions for many of our common
butterflies. Spring blossoms, like the hawthorn or May
flower, are vital nectar sources for early emerging
insects, whilst hedge climbers like honeysuckle and ivy
will provide food for insects later in the year.
Hedges provide an excellent habitat for
primroses and other woodland wildflowers
The banks and ditches associated with many of our hedges are important habitats for
amphibians and reptiles. The abundance of small mammals in hedgerows, including
hedgehogs, field mice and pigmy shrews, make them excellent hunting territory for larger
predators such as stoats, foxes and birds of prey. Bats may also be found moving along
hedges, as they often use these linear features as navigational tools.
Hedge Guide Part 1: Planning and planting a new hedge
Over 30 of our bird species in Northern Ireland regularly
utilise hedgerows, and some of our rare and declining
species rely on properly managed hedges as a food source.
Birds are attracted by the plentiful supply of insects and
grubs, the autumn harvest of berries and nuts, and weed
seeds in the hedge bottom. A well-maintained hedge with
some mature trees will accommodate a variety of birds,
each with different preferences in terms of nest and perch
sites.
◄ Autumn berries are a valuable food source for the Yellowhammer,
a species of conservation concern in Northern Ireland
We are gradually losing the traditional hedges in our countryside as a result of removal
and neglect.
This trend can be reversed in two ways
1. Planting new hedges
2. Managing existing hedges
Both actions will benefit wildlife and landowners alike.
1. Planting new hedges
Benefits of planting a new hedge….
9 Wildlife value (see text)
9 Visually attractive
9 Stockproofing fields
9 Prevent direct animal contact to combat the spread of disease like bovine tuberculosis
9 Shelter for livestock and crops
9 Pest control, by attracting natural predators
9 Screening and noise reduction
9 Privacy and security
9 Long lasting
Choice of species to plant
The first rule of thumb when choosing species for your new hedge is to look at the hedges
in your local area. Use the species present in mature hedges in your locality as a guide to
the new hedge mix, as this will not only help to preserve the character of the area but will
ensure that your plants are well suited to the local soils and climate.
Always source your hedge plants from a reliable stockist. Native trees and shrubs are the
best choices for wildlife, but be aware that many suppliers will stock native trees grown on
the continent and shipped over. If possible, source ‘local origin’ (local provenance) trees.
The term ‘local origin’ means that the trees are grown from seed collected from naturally
occurring native trees growing in Northern Ireland. These plants are better adapted to
local conditions and the timing of events such as budburst and flowering are more likely to
complement our wildlife.
Choice of species will also depend on the function of your hedge. For example, a pure
hawthorn or hawthorn-blackthorn mix in the ratio 4:1 would be suitable for stock-proofing.
If your intention is to create a conservation hedge to attract and sustain wildlife, use a
wider selection of native species. A recommended composition would be: hawthorn 50%;
blackthorn 15%; hazel 15% and 20% of other species, selected from guelder rose, spindle,
dog rose and holly.
Hedge Guide Part 1: Planning and planting a new hedge
Include some hedgerow trees: crab apple, oak, ash, tree willows or alder in wetter areas,
birch/ rowan in acid uplands.
Table: Choosing your hedge plants
Species Soil preference Suitability as hedge Wildlife value
Hawthorn All soils but not plant Excellent. Flowers
Crataegus exposed or elevated attract bees, many
monogyna sites. Fast growing and insects on leaves.
hardy, good stock Berries taken by
Blackthorn Grows on wide range barrier, stands hard mammals and birds.
Prunus spinosa of soil types – avoids cutting. Prone to Good nesting cover.
very acid soil. disease – soil may
develop ‘thorn Early flowers provide
Hazel All free-draining soils, sickness’. food for bees and other
Corylus avellana preferring fertile moist insects. Good nesting
alkaline or neutral Dense, spiny shrub. cover.
soils. Very hardy, and
grows quickly after Rich in insects. Nuts
Holly Wide tolerance except cutting. Suckers are valuable food
Ilex aquifolium poorly drained soils. readily into adjacent source for birds and
land. Not tolerant of mammals.
Gorse Prefers poor dry soils, heavy shade.
Ulex europaeus. typically suited to Holly blue butterfly
upland and coastal Bushy tree / shrub depends on holly
sites. that branches from flowers. Berries eaten
the base. Responds by song thrush,
Willow Damp soils, most well to cutting but can mistlethrush, fieldfare,
Salix sp. species withstand be difficult to redwing, starling and
seasonal waterlogging. establish. woodpigeon.
Beech* Good cover for birds,
Fagus sylvatica Well drained sites – Tough and stock- especially linnets and
sand and limestone proof. Evergreen yellowhammers.
soils. provides good Attracts insects.
shelter. Grows well
Guelder rose Prefers a wet soil. in shady conditions. Catkins in March/ April
Viburnum opulus Dislikes very acid or Slow growing and are an important food
very dry conditions. expensive to buy. source for butterflies
and other insects early
Tough and in the year.
evergreen, good for Few associated
screening if properly insects, but provides
managed. Can nuts for birds and
become thin at base. mammals, and offers
Damaged by frost good cover for nesting
and burns easily. birds.
Can be invasive. Blossom attracts
insects, and bright red
Rapid growth, offer berries are a favourite
good shelter and food for birds.
screening. Coppice
easily. Poor stock
fence.
Retains leaves in
winter and provides
good shelter. Easily
trained. Slow
growing and poor
stock barrier.
Low growing,
compact shrub.
Light-demanding and
will not fruit or flower
well in shade.
Hedge Guide Part 1: Planning and planting a new hedge
Dog rose Grows on a wide range Rambling rose, very Roughly 100 insect
Rosa canina of soil types but prickly. Best planted species associated
dislikes very wet soil. in an established with this plant. Birds
hedge, as it can and small mammals
Spindle Prefers lime-rich soils smother young eat the autumn crop of
Euonymous Wide tolerance saplings. Good for rosehips.
filling in large gaps.
europaeus Low growing shrub Birds attracted to the
Elder fruit and seeds. Good
Sambucus nigra Low growing shrub. for insects.
Will grow well in Excellent. Dense
Crab apple Wide range of soils but coastal and exposed clusters of black
Malus sylvestris prefers neutral. sites. Very invasive berries attract birds,
and must be cut back and elder flowers
regularly to prevent it provide a valuable
dominating the source of nectar to
hedge. insects in summer.
Small growing tree
with spiny twigs. Excellent. Wide range
Good as a hedgerow of insects attracted by
tree. pale pink flowers.
Fruit taken by
mammals and birds
e.g. bullfinch.
* Non-native species
Planting guide
9 Small plants (40-60cm tall) are more
cost effective and will establish better
than larger specimens.
9 Site preparation will depend on planting
method (see below). If notch planting
(see diagram opposite) is the chosen
method, it is a good idea to reduce 1. Initial cut
competition from grasses and perennial
weeds. This can be done by mowing
and removing any rough grass along the 2. Make a T-notch
with the spade
hedge strip during the summer prior to
planting, or by applying a non-residual
glyphosate herbicide such as Round-up.
Cultivation of the soil prior to planting is
recommended as it helps break up the
turf layer and check the growth of
grasses and weeds. It also facilitates
planting and creates a good tilth
(crumbly texture) to aid plant establishment.
9 Depending on the root depth and width of the young trees, planting can be
accomplished by notch planting with a spade, or by simply using a crowbar.
Alternatively, a trench 50cm wide and 30cm deep can be dug along the line of the
new hedge. This has the same benefits as soil cultivation prior to planting.
Hedge Guide Part 1: Planning and planting a new hedge
9 Hedges can be planted in a single row or in double rows.
See diagrams below for recommended plant spacing.
Single Row
20-30cm
Double Row: this method works out at approximately 7 plants per metre
30-45cm
50cm
9 To maintain local style, it is sometimes desirable to create a hedge bank and plant
on top of it. In the case of very wet soils, this may already be a requirement.
9 If using bare root trees, the planting season is from the beginning of October to the
end of March. Cell-grown trees can be planted at any time of year, providing
ground is not frozen or waterlogged. Autumn is considered the best time to plant in
free draining ground, spring if the ground is heavy.
9 Plants should be placed into the ground at the same depth as they were in the
nursery. This is marked by the root collar, usually identified by a change in colour
in the stem just above the root. Ensure the plant is firmed in well. All damaged or
dead shoots should be removed at the time of planting.
9 When planting in autumn, hawthorn and blackthorn should be pruned back
immediately after they are firmed in. See pruning guide for more information.
9 Replace any hedge plants that fail to establish after the first year.
Pruning guide for hawthorn and blackthorn
Pruning hawthorn and blackthorn in the first few years after planting will encourage the
shrubs to branch more from the base, giving a thicker and more stockproof hedge.
Immediately after planting in autumn, prune each plant to about 15cm, or one third its
height.
Later in the winter, hard pruning could leave the plants susceptible to frost damage. If
planting is carried out from mid-November onwards, the first prune is best left until the
following autumn.
In the second winter, cut back the previous season’s growth by about one half
In the third winter, trim the laterals and leading shoots to an even shape.
First year cut First prune cut plant Subsequent years
to one third its height trim laterals and
plant to one-third
its height leading shoots to an
even shape
Diagram: pruning method
Hedge Guide Part 1: Planning and planting a new hedge
Fencing
Fencing may be required to protect your newly planted hedge from damage by farm
livestock, rabbits and hares. Tree guards may be adequate protection against rabbits and
hares, but a fence will be necessary in the case of grazing livestock. The minimum
distance between the hedge and fence is 1m, but a 2m gap is more beneficial to wildlife,
allowing for the development of a hedge with a thick, bushy base.
Aftercare
During the early period of establishment, watch out for signs of drought, and water the
hedge if necessary. For the initial 3-4 years, it is important to control competing weeds,
either by hand weeding, mulching, or careful application of glyphosate herbicides.
Black polythene sheet mulches can be laid prior to planting, and the young saplings slotted
into pre-cut slits at the correct spacing. This can then be weighed down with a light
covering of gravel. The sheeting must be removed once the plants have become
established. Other suitable mulches, laid after planting, include straw, woodchip, rotted
manure or even cheap waste materials such as thick plastic sacks, carpet, layers of
newspaper or cardboard. If using a glyphosate herbicide as a method of controlling
weeds, be very careful not to spray the hedge foliage.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
We hope that this guide will help you when planning and planting a new hedge.
Recommended Further Reading:
Choosing your garden hedge EHS leaflet, 2004
Field Boundaries 3 Hedges – planting and aftercare, DANI leaflet
series, 1994,
ISBN 1 85527 155 9
Habitat Creation and Repair Oliver L. Gilbert and Penny Anderson, Oxford University
Press, 1998, ISBN 0 19 854966 0
Hedgerows ENFO Briefing sheet 10
Hedges on the farm DOE/ DANI, printed in UK for HMSO 55-5967 5/87 8879544 C100
20435
Hedging a practical handbook Alan Brooks and Elizabeth Agate, 2nd Edition 1998,
ISBN 0 946752 17 6
Planting Hedgerows Networks for Nature leaflet, Hedgerow Management series
Trees on the farm DOE/ DANI publication