Kilt construction some answers to questions you need to know

Kilt construction.... some answers to questions you need to know

1. Kilts can be and are made out of solid colored fabric
2. Most kilts are made out of Tartan/plaid fabric.
3. Tartans have a repeat pattern called the sett(remember what this word means). Most setts are

symetrical resulting in even squares.

4.Different setts have different lengths.
3.5”

6“

5.There are two ways to pleat a kilt. Dress kilts are pleated to reproduce the pattern sett i.e. the
pleated part will look like the unpleated part. This is called pleating to the sett. Regimental kilts are
pleated so that a narrow bright stripe is centered on every pleat. This is called pleating to the stripe.
Pleating to the stripe is easier than pleating to the sett. I will only be explaining how to pleat to the
Stripe. The part of the pleat that you see is called the pleat size. The part you donʼt see is called the
pleat depth.

Pleating to the Sett Regimental / pleating to the stripe pleat depth is
in this case the
length of my
fingers that
you canʼt see

pleat size

6. On a proper kilt pleat size is between .5” and 1”. You can make them bigger if you want but donʼt
make them to much bigger that 1.5”. Pleat depth is determined by the size of the sett. Let us plan
for a 1”pleat size in each of the colors red and blue above. In the blue tartan the pleat depth will be
I.25”. In the red tartan the pleat depth will be 2.5”. Remember the pleat depth is one half of the
length of fabric that is hidden between/under the pleats. See next page.

[email protected] Saturday, March 28, 2009 Page 1

Kilt construction.... some answers to questions you need to know

pleat fold pleat pleat fold pleat pleat
size line depth size line depth size
1.25”
1” 1.25” 1” 1”

pleat pleat
size
pleat size
1” depth 1”

fold

line 2.5”

7.So.... why do you have to know this? It comes in handy in planning your Kilt. The size of the Sett
effects how you will plan your pleats. If you have a small sett of less than 3” your pleat depth
will be 1” if you plan a pleat size of 1”. I find it easier to pleat if your pleat depth is 2.5” or more. If
you want a deeper pleat you could go two or three setts to grab your next pleat. If the sett is very
large you may want to see if there are stripes within the sett that you can pleat to so that you donʼt
have too deep a pleat depth(4.5” or more).

Pleat size effects how many pleats you will have to make. The width of your pleat times the
number of pleats needs to approximate the lenght of half of your waist. Do not worry about this at
the moment it will become easy to understand as you start the process. A couple of practice
pleating sessions wont take long and will make things pretty understandable.

8. How much fabric do i need? Depends... charts below offer some guidance. Note fabric widths.
If you wanted to make a Phillabeg or Ancient kilt out of a fabric that was 54” to 60” wide you
could buy half as much fabric as in charts below. You would then split the fabric lengthwise
and sew the two pieces together to get the length you need.

[email protected] Saturday, March 28, 2009 Page 2

Kilt construction.... some answers to questions you need to know

The Great kilt The Phillabeg (Little Kilt) The Ancient kilt
54” to 60” wide fabric 25” wide fabric 25” to 30” wide
4 yards = 34” waist 4 yards = 34” waist 6-7 yards = 34” waist
5 yards = 44” waist 5 yards = 44” waist 7-8 yards = 44” waist
6 yards = 50” waist 6 yards = 50” waist 8-9 yards = 50” waist

9. What measurements do I need from my “highlander”? You need to know...

A. The waist measurement measured rather tightly.

B. The hip measurement at the largest circumference measured rather loosely.
C. The length from waist to top of kneecap or waist to One inch above floor if kneeling.

D. If you are thinking about making a more formal kilt you also need to know the distance
from the waist to the hip measurement.

[email protected] Saturday, March 28, 2009 Page 3