HARD AND SOFT WOODS To make sure the planers worked well with a wide variety of stock, I made test passes on fir, oak, walnut, and veneer plywood. With fresh blades and an appropriate feed rate, all the planers produced a smooth surface. RABBET CUTS All the planers have blades that reach across the sole to the left side of the housing. This arrangement allows you to create rabbets on one side of the planer. I tested the quality of the cuts on an old-growth fir post salvaged from a fence rebuild. END AND EDGE GRAIN I built a 3-in.-thick mockup with consistent-grained stock throughout. The mockup replicates the top or bottom of a traditional frame-and-panel entry door where you’ll be planing both straight and end grain in the same pass. HOW WE TESTED FEBRUARY/MARCH 2024 51
MILWAUKEE 2623-20 Choosing a favorite between this planer and the Bosch was tough. The deciding factor for me was the Milwaukee’s large fence, which is a real confidence-builder if you’re not accustomed to using these tools. It’s also the only included fence with a bevel adjustment—a handy feature for beveling door edges. It combines light weight with ample power, making it a great all-purpose planer. F ast, easy lever to switch discharge direction Large fence has bevel adjustment Left and right discharge Dust bag included RYOBI P611 This planer gets the job done for at least $80 less than the similarly sized competition, making it a no-brainer best-value pick. Despite its low price, the Ryobi scored in the middle of the pack in terms of power and smoothness. I would have liked a fence with a larger bearing surface, or at least a pair of holes for attaching an auxiliary fence, but that’s probably nitpicking for its price. SPEED 14,000 rpm MAX CUT 5/64 in. WEIGHT* 6.28 lb. PRICE $230 SPEED 11,000 rpm MAX CUT 1/16 in. WEIGHT 5.16 lb. PRICE $80 FAVORITE FEATURES FAVORITE FEATURES * All planers weighed without batteries or accessories 52 FINEHOMEBUILDING.COM Product photos and photo bottom left: Melinda Vazquez
to hold just a single blade rather than two blades. This makes blade changes faster and eliminates any chance the two blades may be misaligned, resulting in a rougher pass. If you’re planing old stock with the possibility of embedded nails, DeWalt, Metabo HPT, and Makita offer lower-cost blades made from less expensive, resharpenable highspeed steel instead of the more durable, more expensive carbide. Features for a winning tool I like to be able to eject chips on both sides of the planer so they’re not blowing all over me or blocking the view when I’m planing. The Metabo HPT, Makita, and DeWalt planers have chip ejection (and thus, dust collection) only on the right side of the tool. All other models (including the two smaller planers) let you choose right or left. Kudos to Ryobi for supplying a dust bag with their inexpensive planer, unlike the other larger models. Not all planing jobs require a fence, but when a straight, square-edged pass is needed, F ast, easy blade changes Under-battery wrench for safer blade changes Carbide or high-speed steel blades Spare blade storage on tool BOSCH PLH181B DEWALT DCP580B SPEED 15,000 rpm MAX CUT 5 /64 in. WEIGHT 5.57 lb. PRICE $230 This planer wins the prize for innovative features. For safety, you can’t access the blade-change wrench unless you first remove the battery. And the counterbalanced cutter head holds a single blade that planes just as smoothly as doublebladed models. I like knowing that if I hit a nail, I’ll only have one blade to change. It’s a fine choice for an all-around planer and my second-favorite 18v model in the test. This tool has a rugged, no-frills design. Chip discharge on the right side only might cause problems in some applications; otherwise, the planer is easy to use, and it gets bonus points for being the only model with spare blades stowed on the tool—plus it includes an onboard blade wrench. SPEED 14,000 rpm MAX CUT 1/16 in. WEIGHT 4.45 lb. PRICE $220 FAVORITE FEATURES FAVORITE FEATURES FEBRUARY/MARCH 2024 53
it helps to have a large fence as your guide. All the larger planers include a fence except for the Makita, whose straight fence is an additional $23 (and one capable of beveling sells for $22). The Milwaukee’s fence is the best of the bunch, because it’s the biggest and can make bevel cuts in addition to flat, 90° passes. The fences on the Metabo HPT and Ryobi models are too small, but you can overcome this deficiency by attaching a wood auxiliary fence. The Metabo HPT’s fence is predrilled for an auxiliary fence, but the Ryobi is not. The two smaller models aren’t designed to use fences. If you primarily need raw planing power for surfacing rough-cut hardwood boards and slabs, the best choice would be the Makita or Metabo HPT models. These two old-school (brushed-motor) heavyweights are what I’d use to roughly flatten and smooth wide slabs for live-edge countertops and furniture. The Milwaukee and Bosch planers are both excellent choices for general carpentry MAKITA XPK01Z METABO HPT P18DSLQ4 SPEED 15,000 rpm MAX CUT 5/64 in WEIGHT 6.10 lb. PRICE $220 ($23 fence) SPEED 16,000 rpm MAX CUT 5/64 in. WEIGHT 6.11 lb. PRICE $160 This is a heavy, powerful tool that easily handled every shaving assignment I gave it. Planed surfaces were incredibly smooth. Like the Metabo HPT, this is more of an old-school tool, lacking an onboard wrench and two-way chip ejection. The hassle and extra expense of buying an edge guide detracts from an otherwise top-quality tool. This tool is very similar to the Makita in design, performance, and feel. It packs plenty of power, too. The tool-only option includes an edge guide, but you’ll need to pay extra for a dust-port adapter that allows you to connect a vacuum hose. Carbide or high-speed steel blades Smooth cuts Lower price Included fence FAVORITE FEATURES FAVORITE FEATURES 54 FINEHOMEBUILDING.COM Product photos: Melinda Vazquez
and finish work. They’re well-made tools with good fences, easy blade changes, and the ability to tackle heavy stock removal and precise shaving tasks. Forced to pick one, I’d choose the Milwaukee because its fence can be adjusted to bevel and I also like the wellplaced lever that allows you to easily change which side the chips are ejected. The two small planers I tested—also from Milwaukee and Bosch—could quickly earn a place in any trim carpenter’s toolbox. Easily operated with one hand, these tools have good dust collection and, thanks to their compact size, they excel at planing small sections of molding and cabinet boxes so that they fit correctly in spaces that aren’t flat, square, or plumb. They’re also great for tapering or trimming narrow stock like extension jambs for doors and windows. □ Tim Snyder is a carpenter, writer, and woodworker in Newtown, Conn. Photos by Patrick McCombe, except where noted. 12V PLANERS PACK A PUNCH Finish carpenters will find the 2-in. cordless planers from Bosch and Milwaukee to be very handy. They fit in smaller spaces than the 31⁄2-in. models and are designed for one-handed use, freeing your other hand to steady the stock. These 12v machines, relatively new to the market, are great for scribe-fitting cabinets and built-ins, adjusting trim for out-of-plumb or -level conditions, and smoothing narrow stock. BOSCH GH0112V-08N MILWAUKEE 2524-20 SPEED 14,500 rpm MAX CUT 5/64 in. WEIGHT 3.31 lb. PRICE $190 SPEED 14,500 rpm MAX CUT 5/64 in. WEIGHT 3.38 lb. PRICE $200 Milwaukee’s 2-in. model discharges chips on either side and comes with a dust port that accepts two sizes of vacuum hose. The tool's depth-of-cut adjustment includes an easyto-read scale. Bosch’s 2-in. planer has a single-blade cutter head like its big brother and can discharge on either side of the tool. Its dustcontrol provisions make it my favorite of the smaller planers. It has a small but functional dust bag and a dust port for attaching a vacuum hose on either side of the planer. Precise depth of cut Double-size dust port Includes small dust bag One-blade cutter FAVORITE FEATURES FAVORITE FEATURES FEBRUARY/MARCH 2024 55
I n November of 1983, Popular Science published a short article called “Superinsulated House Trusses” that briefly described John Larsen’s alternative to double-stud walls. John’s approach, which we know today as the Larsen truss, was to build a house with conventional 2x4 walls, install airtight polyethylene sheeting around the building, and then attach to the wall shop-made trusses of long 2x2s joined with plywood gussets. When filled with fiberglass batts inside and out, John’s walls would hit R-35 with little thermal bridging. “I came up with this idea while framing a double-wall house,” John wrote in an email. “Normally, experienced framers do the framing much more efficiently than ordinary carpenters like myself. They are, however, not so good at vapor retarder installation, which has to happen at the same time. By using the external truss system, they can frame the structural part of the house and I or a subtrade can come in and wrap the house externally with large sheets of poly, and then install the trusses. In the ’80s there was no internet, so we spread the idea by printing ads in building publications and sold manuals with blueprints for $15. We sold hundreds.” In a 2011 interview with Martin Holladay, John said, “I was making the trusses until the late ’80s. After that, there wasn’t a big demand anymore.” The Larsen truss may not have taken off as a product, but variations on the idea are still widely in use today. In fact, they’re a favored superinsulated wall assembly by some cold-climate builders, and for good reasons. They don’t necessarily have to be custom-built. Common manufactured products including I-joists and floor trusses can be used. They are a fairly straightforward way to add deep exterior OPEN-WEB FLOOR TRUSSES FRAMING LUMBER I-JOISTS Larsen Trusses Live On Hanging a truss outside a stick-framed wall is an old idea that hangs in with modern materials, building science, and energy-efficiency goals BY BRIAN PONTOLILO 56 FINEHOMEBUILDING.COM Photos, top to bottom: Josh Edmonds, Steve Baczek, and Bob Swinburne
THE ORIGINAL 2x2s and plywood gussets To build the original Larsen trusses, John Larsen would rip 2x4s in half to make a pair of chords. He’d then route dadoes for 3⁄8-in. plywood gussets that would connect the chords every 24 in., using glue and brads as fasteners. The trusses would be attached to a common stick-framed wall with airtight polyethylene sheeting outside of the sheathing. The houses were insulated with fiberglass batts. Plywood window buck 1⁄2-in. drywall 2x4 structural wall, 16 in. o.c. Felt, Tyvek, or other WRB Poly air barrier sealed to window buck Plywood bottom 2x4s ripped in half with 3⁄8-in. plywood gussets, nailed to wall Polyethylene air barrier and vapor retarder Structural sheathing Fiberglass-batt insulation Fiberglass-batt insulation Blocking for window trim FEBRUARY/MARCH 2024 57
insulation to a wall assembly, which has several benefits. And they offer an exterior insulation option that doesn’t rely on plastic-foam products. Like any alternative wall assembly, though, there’s a learning curve for first-time builders. And at least one high-performance builder who says there’s a lot to like about Larsen trusses has concerns about their durability over the long term. A pretty perfect wall A Larsen-truss wall has some similarities with a doublestud wall. The structural aspect of the framing is common—both start with 2x4 or 2x6 walls that will be familiar to builders. In the case of a double-stud wall, it is common for the outer wall to be structural, and loadbearing where necessary. The interior wall is essentially a partition that creates an uninterrupted space for continuous insulation, deepens the cavity for greater R-value, and carries the drywall, trim, cabinetry, and toilet-paper holders. Larsen trusses are attached outside of the structural walls, creating an additional cavity for insulation to the exterior of the sheathing. This is one of the advantages of the system, says New York builder Josh Edmonds. Josh builds Passive Houses, and even when not pursuing certification tends to use the Passive House Institute (Phius) modeling strategies for his new homes and remodels. Josh says that Phius frowns on double-stud walls, particularly where the outer wall is structural. This is because hygrothermal modeling reveals the possibility of cold sheathing issues, specifically the potential for condensation that can lead to rot and structural failure. (For an alternative perspective, see “A Case for DoubleStud Walls,” FHB #291). In this way, a Larsen-truss wall is also akin to a house wrapped with continuous exterior insulation. If the trusses are deep enough to achieve the necessary R-value for the climate zone in which the house is built, having most of the insulation outside the wall means that the sheathing will never get cold enough to be a condensing surface. Josh’s rule of thumb is to have about two-thirds of the insulation to the exterior, which means he can build a 2x6 wall and use 12-in. I-joists for the Larsen trusses. For condensation control, the International Residential Code (IRC) calls for a minimum R-11.5 of exterior insulation over 2x6 walls in climate zone 6 where Josh builds. With dense-pack cellulose or mineral-wool insulation, the R-value outside of the sheathing in his Larsen-truss assembly will be in the mid-R-40s. Josh also likes the drying potential of these walls, which can dry readily in both directions. The only vapor retarder in his walls is the sheathing. “With either cellulose or mineral-wool insulation,” he says, “you could have a flashing issue and dump water into this wall system and not have a catastrophic building failure.” Moreover, the water, air, and vapor control layers are at the sheathing, so the Larsen-truss system achieves the beneficial characteristics of Joe Lstiburek’s “Perfect Wall.” All four control layers are to the exterior of the framing, and the water, air, and vapor control layers, along with the structure of the building, are all inside the thermal boundary (or most of it, anyway). They’re protected from the elements and the effects of temperature changes. If you’ve ever tried to find framing with structural screws through a few inches of exterior insulation, you can imagine how tough it would be to find a stud with a 12-in. screw through 10 in. of rigid insulation. This is another benefit of the Larsen truss. The cavities are commonly filled with dense-packed fibrous insulation, meaning the outer truss flange is available for fastening. To hold the insulation in place, another membrane is installed over the trusses. On a recent project, Josh used Siga’s Majcoat, a roofing underlayment, for this detail, but any vaporopen membrane rated for dense-packed insulation could work. The membrane provides an additional water-resistive barrier (WRB). Furring strips, often installed in a lattice pattern, help to hold the membrane in place and create a ventilated rainscreen gap for the siding. In other words, if you are installing horizontal lap siding, you can run the first layer of strapping horizontally, and the second layer vertically. If you are installing vertical siding, you can switch the strapping layers. In either case, the rainscreen is then detailed as any other. You can use floor joists A few years ago, Massachusetts architect Steve Baczek was designing a high-performance home for a property where strict zoning regulaBUCKS AND BLOCKING As in other thick-wall assemblies, windows and doors are commonly installed with bucks—plywood or OSB boxes that extend from the interior wall plane to the exterior wall plane. Inset windows and doors can be installed with common details, but the buck must be flashed and air-sealed to the wall sheathing. And don’t forget blocking for trim, if needed. 58 FINEHOMEBUILDING.COM Photo: Josh Edmonds
Insect screen keeps critters out of rainscreen gap. I-joists are a common manufactured option for Larsen trusses that are easily cut, notched, and drilled as necessary by the builder. In climate zone 6, builder Josh Edmonds uses a 12-in. I-joist (which measures 117⁄8 in.) hung outside of a 2x6 wall to meet his goal of having two-thirds of the total insulation R-value to the exterior of the structural sheathing. Whenever possible, Josh runs the I-joists and the insulation above the top plate so that a little settling of the insulation will never become a problem. ON-SITE MODIFICATION I-joists cut to fit Horizontal 2x4s, 16 in. or 24 in. o.c. Vertical 1x4 furring, 16 in. o.c. Membrane wrapped from wall sheathing to front of I-joists. 5⁄8-in. drywall 2x6 structural wall, 24 in. on center 7⁄16-in. Zip sheathing with taped seams OSB, plywood, or ZIP sheathing window buck Blocking as needed for window trim Dense-packed mineral wool 12-in. I-joists fastened to framing with structural screws Vapor-open membrane to contain insulation Dense-packed mineral wool FEBRUARY/MARCH 2024 59
tions were limiting the possible size of the building. Steve asked the town officials how they measured the footprint of a home. It turns out they weren’t sure. Steve suggested that they measure from the perimeter of the foundation. The officials agreed. Steve needed thick walls to achieve the project’s performance goals, so he decided to design a Larsen-truss wall system because it wouldn’t creep into the already tight interior living space the way double-stud walls would. It also wouldn’t be counted as square footage. Steve ordered floor trusses to hang on the exterior wall and says they are advantageous for a few reasons, mostly having to do with the open webs. “People will argue that there’s not a lot of cross-sectional area to a 3⁄8-in. OSB web and it’s not going to make a difference in terms of thermal bridging in an R-60 or R-70 wall. And I agree. Loosing 2% of that with an I-joist is not a concern for me,” Steve said when comparing the thermal-bridging potential of an open-web floor truss to an I-joist. “But there are still some things I like a lot about the open-web floor trusses in this application. You can screw them directly at 90° into the studs with a palm nailer or 90° driver. And they’re light. On the project we did with them, one guy was able to install them by himself.” But the things Steve likes most about open-web floor trusses as Larsen trusses are that you can easily set them on a ledger and that you don’t have to make any modifications on-site if you order just what you need. Floor trusses are manufactured with a knockout on one corner where a 2x4 band is attached to tie the trusses together. When using them as a Larsen truss, Steve says that you can attach a ledger to the building to set the trusses on, fitting the ledger into the notch. Also, because truss plants will make whatever you design, Steve says that you can even order them with an angle on one end, which could make it easier to match the roof pitch or to sheath for a water-shedding cap on the trusses. Josh’s I-joists are also a manufactured solution. The joist depth is chosen to meet performance goals. Josh fastens the I-joists to the framing every 2 ft. with structural screws, alternating sides of the OSB web. Though the application and fastening schedule has been approved by an engineer, Josh uses a raft-slab foundation for his homes, so the I-joists are also resting on high-psi rigid-foam insulation. One more thing Josh likes about using I-joists is that they can be cut on-site. For example, when the I-joists run up to the roof eave, the crew can cut them at an angle that matches the roof pitch. Though manufactured alternatives to John Larsen’s original wall truss have gained popularity, Vermont architect Robert (Bob) Swinburne has adopted a site-built solution of his own. Bob has tried a few variations on what his friends call the “Swinburne truss.” His first idea was to create a standoff with a block of wood fastened to the framing and a plywood gusset holding a length of 2x4 or 2x6 parallel to the wall. But he’s simplified that further to just having the lumber attached to the block of wood fastened to the wall and offset with the framing inside the sheathing. His builder has also switched from framing lumber to local green lumber. Whether to use a Larsen truss or a double-stud wall, Bob says the choice is partially the builders’. He wants them to be comfortable with the assemblies they are hired to build. Other factors include the complexity and height of the building. Larsen trusses make a lot of sense on wide, single-story houses, he says. The time of year is also a factor. In the winter, he’d rather the crew be working inside. In nicer weather, installing Larsen trusses outside is more viable. And finally, the foundation type matters. “A standard concrete foundation with insulation to the inside is a good situation for a double-stud wall,” Bob says. “If you’re using insulated concrete forms or a floating slab where there’s a lot of exterior insulation, then a Larsen-truss system starts to make sense.” Details, details, details Connecticut builder Ben Bogie has used I-joists as Larsen trusses on both new homes and remodels. One of the things Ben likes about this system for remodels is that he can straighten walls as he installs the I-joists. He’ll set the joists plumb on either end of a wall, pull stringlines between them, and shim the I-joists to the line wherever the wall is wonky. Ben also likes the fact that he can cover a lot of area fast with this system. After installing a ledger at the bottom of the wall and notching the I-joists to bear on it, Ben only screws the I-joists to BUTTON UP THE BOTTOM Larsen trusses sometimes sit atop the foundation or the foundation insulation, and sometimes hang outside of the foundation. In any case, you’ll need to be able to keep insulation in and critters out. On this project, a combination of insect screen and synthetic deck boards get the job done. 60 FINEHOMEBUILDING.COM Photo: Steve Baczek
BUILT TO SPEC Open-web floor trusses One of the things architect Steve Baczek likes about open-web floor trusses in a Larsen-truss application is that he can design and order just what he needs. The trusses arrive on-site at the correct length, with a notch on the bottom to catch a 2x4 ledger installed level at the bottom of the wall. Steve also orders the floor trusses with a pitch at one end. This detail could be used to match the roofline if the truss were extending the full length of the wall, or in the case of the project illustrated here, be covered and flashed to shed water. 1⁄2-in. drywall 2x6 structural wall, 24 in. o.c. Dense-packed mineral wool 1⁄2-in. Zip sheathing with taped seams Dense-packed mineral wool 14-in. open-web floor trusses, fastened to framing with structural screws Board sheathing Type D building paper Netting 2x4 ledger Synthetic decking spaced at 3⁄16 in. Insect screen wraps bottom of trusses. FEBRUARY/MARCH 2024 61
the framing at the rim joist and the top plate, because that is all his engineer called for. He also said that you’ll probably find yourself scratching your head on a few details when building with Larsen trusses for the first time. If you’ve never built a house with thick walls, windows and doors are one of the first tricky details you’ll encounter with a Larsen-truss assembly. The most common approach to framing window openings is to build a window buck from sheet material. A flangeless window can be installed inside the buck with common details like a sloped sill pan, flashing tape on the exterior, spray foam in the shim space, and air-sealing tape to the interior. Josh prefers a one-piece aluminum sill pan under his windows. One of the key joints to seal is where the wall sheathing and WRB meet the window buck, because this is the main water and air control layer. This can be done with a fluidapplied membrane, tape, or both. Doors can be installed the same way. In both cases it is important to think about what you’ll need for fastening trim around the window or door. Also, it’s important to consider the placement of trusses next to window and door bucks. Josh says that he occasionally omits trusses when they are too close to windows and doors and will create a space that is too tight to insulate well. The gable end is another area where you’ll need to plan your details well. Josh sometimes sets the gable truss out to the plane of the I-joists. In this case, the portion of the roof load that hangs over the edge of the structural wall is bearing on the I-joist, a detail approved by Josh’s engineer. However, if the roof pitch is low, which means the gable isn’t very tall, he sometimes will build a deep rake overhang and run the I-joists to the roof. Josh says there is some insurance to be found in running the I-joists above the thermal boundary on both gable ends and eave walls with raised-heel roof trusses. By packing the insulation above the top plate, a bit of settling will not be an issue. You’ll also need to determine how to handle the bottom of the trusses, install ledgers, and detail outside corners. If the trusses don’t land on the foundation, you’ll need to detail the bottom in a way that keeps the insulation in the cavity and keeps critters out of it. Some builders wrap a membrane around the bottom of the trusses, but a rigid barrier will be necessary to keep rodents from getting in. Solid lumber and sheet goods will work. You may consider something pressure treated, being so close to the ground. Your engineer may approve fastening framing lumber to the trusses for ledgers. This is how Josh commonly handles the ledger for a porch roof, for example. Bob has mounted Maine Deck Brackets on blocks fastened directly to the wall sheathing to hold a porch-floor ledger outside of the truss system. In any case, this is not a detail you’ll want to leave for the day you need to do the work, nor are outside corners. Here, too, the solution may be simpler than it seems. When using I-joists for Larsen trusses, Josh completes outside corners with an additional joist, fastened perpendicular to the flange of one of the corner joists. If this sounds like it would be flimsy, keep in mind that all the I-joists will be tied together with horizontal 2x4s, which add a lot of rigidity to the assembly. Bob details the corners by connecting the end trusses on the adjacent walls with corners built from rips of plywood or OSB, leaving gaps where insulation can be blown into the hollow. A healthy dose of skepticism As you can see, there’s a lot to like about Larsen-truss wall assemblies. With good planning and a bit of experience, they’re a very buildable system too. Some builders make them work from a cost perspective, at least when compared to other high-performance wall assemblies. But at least one builder shared some skepticism about their durability. “From a building science perspective, this system makes a lot of sense. It’s very vapor open to the exterior. With a good, ventilated cladding system, the assembly is going to dry really well. So hygrothermally, Larsen trusses are excellent. They have continuous insulation, and very little thermal bridging,” says Ben. “But I do have concerns about them. You are going to be relying on a membrane on the outside of the truss to contain the insulation, and that gives me durability concerns over a long time frame. For 10 or 20 years, I’m sure it’s fine. At 50 years, I’m not so sure. And I’m of the school of thought that we should be building homes that will last at least 100 years, if not 200.” Point taken, but let’s agree: High-performance homes are highstakes homes. To minimize risk in a Larsen-truss wall or any other assembly, it’s up to all of us to make sure we not only understand the important details, but execute them with precision and care. □ Brian Pontolilo is a senior editor. Drawings by Christopher Mills. LEDGER-READY Ledgers can sometimes be attached directly to Larsen trusses. Another option is to use hardware like the Maine Deck Bracket spaced appropriately off the sheathing for deck and porch floor and roof attachments. 62 FINEHOMEBUILDING.COM Photo: Bob Swinburne
John Larsen built the first Larsen trusses in a shop with 2x2s dadoed to accept plywood gussets. The dadoes kept the gussets within the 2x2 and made it easy to install batt insulation properly in the cavities. A precise cavity depth is not important with blown insulation, which makes Bob Swinburne’s site-built solution an even simpler execution. Bob hangs 2x framing lumber from the wall on blocks of scrap material screwed to the framing. The blocks offset the trusses from the structural framing to minimize thermal bridging. THE SWINBURNE SOLUTION Site-built with framing lumber Vertical strapping over horizontal strapping for vertical siding 1⁄2-in. drywall 2x6 structural wall, 24 in. o.c. Dense-packed cellulose or batt insulation 2x6 to close the cavity Boxed plywood corner Board sheathing Vapor-open WRB and air barrier 2x6 lumber fastened to blocking that’s screwed to structural framing Dense-packed cellulose Vapor-open membrane Plywood window buck FEBRUARY/MARCH 2024 63
CURATED BY JANICE ROHLF ARCHITECTURAL CHALLENGES AND SOLUTIONS An accessory dwelling unit (ADU) is a secondary, self-contained residential unit located on the same property as a primary residence. These versatile living spaces have gained popularity as a creative housing solution and are redefining the way we think about urban spaces. 64 FINEHOMEBUILDING.COM
HIGH-PERFORMANCE, PREFAB ADU When these homeowners, who lived primarily in New York’s Hudson Valley, started finding it hard to manage a short-term rental they owned in Mystic, Conn., they had a 790-sq.-ft. ADU built behind the rental. They now live affordably year-round in the scenic seaport town they love. As a prefabricated, sustainable home-building company, Unity Homes appealed to the couple for their high-performance home designs. Unity’s Tempo package includes both the high-performance building envelope as well as a selection of simple curated finishes and fixtures, which saves time and achieves a cohesive look. The homeowners chose options from Unity’s standard offerings for their engineered flooring, kitchen cabinets, plumbing fixtures, and siding, and also had the flexibility to select some of their own fixtures such as light pendants and a custom bathroom vanity. The clients kept their costs down by building on a flat site that didn’t require extensive excavation work, utilizing a slab-on-grade foundation, and choosing finishes that were beautiful but moderately priced. The homeowners plan to install a PV array on the existing garage that has a south-facing roof for optimal solar gain. Their actual electrical use will depend on variables such as plug loads and HVAC settings, but they’re expecting their PV system will produce sufficient power to serve the minimal utility needs of their all-electric home. Architect/builder Unity Homes, unityhomes.com Location Mystic, Conn. Photos Mark Bealer, Studio 66, ©CertainTeed FEBRUARY/MARCH 2024 65
CONTINUED SMALL-SCALE, LIVE/WORK ADU This client, a Pilates instructor, envisioned her ADU on a Minneapolis city lot as a live/work space that embraced lagom— Swedish for “not too little, not too much.” She wanted to live and work in a smaller footprint than the 3000-sq.-ft. main house, which she rented out after moving into the 673-sq.-ft. ADU. A ground-level studio/garage, encompassing an additional 624 sq. ft., serves mainly as a Pilates studio, but also has full functionality as a garage. The design of the second-level apartment separates private areas from open living spaces—the bathroom, storage room, and bedroom are on one side of the apartment; and the kitchen, living room, and deck are on the other. Large sliding doors that open up to the deck and yard provide an open flow from the kitchen all the way across the apartment. Materials were carefully selected for their natural simplicity. Concrete floors with in-floor heat serve both the studio and garage. In-floor heat is also included below white oak wood floors in the living spaces above. The windows surrounding the main living space provide ample light and sky views while also making the space feel larger than it is. White oak cabinets with natural soapstone countertops bring Scandinavian warmth to the space, which succeeds as the very definition of lagom. Architect Ere Architecture, ere-architecture.com Builder Lifespace, yourlifespace.com Location Minneapolis Photos Andrea Rugg Photography 66 FINEHOMEBUILDING.COM
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MULTIGENERATIONAL ADU This midcentury modern–inspired ADU was built to create a multigenerational property in Berkeley, Calif. With an open floor plan, sleek and accessible kitchen, private bedroom, and bathroom with a walk-in shower, the 800-sq.-ft. house maximizes space, and the bifolding glass doors connecting indoors and outdoors provide generous amounts of natural light. The homeowners, Ray and Wendy, had a number of goals for the project. Per Ray’s request, it is a well-built structure with a focus on earthquake resistance, thermal insulation, and structural integrity. The project also includes an improved drainage system that addresses problems with the principal house on the property that Ray dealt with for many years. (The principal house is where Wendy’s son and daughterin-law and their toddler now live.) Wendy wanted the ADU to have nothing more than what was needed and to exemplify the midcentury design she grew up with as the daughter of a Herman Miller furniture employee and an interior designer. The completed architecture and Herman Miller pieces play off one another, visible from outside through the large wall of folding glass. Features to accommodate special mobility needs for Ray, who has Parkinson’s, include a curbless shower, grab bars that harmonize with the bathroom design, and a simple and functional set of steps up to the small deck with railings. The ADU provides a place for three generations of family to live and grow. Architect/builder Conscious Construction, consciousconstruction.com Location Berkeley, Calif. Photos Treve Johnson Photography FEBRUARY/MARCH 2024 69
To learn more, go to FINEHOMEBUILDING.COM/ELEARNING E-LEARNING Join trusted professionals in the building industry as they help you develop your design and building expertise. Our in-depth online courses cover a wide array of important topics, from carpentry and deck building to building science, insulation, highperformance design, and more. Watch lessons at your own pace, and connect with your instructor directly to get your projectspecific questions answered. If you want to become a better and more informed designer, builder, or remodeler, look no further than these comprehensive learning experiences. Check Out Our Latest E-Learning Courses
NEW AND NOTABLE PRODUCTS AND MATERIALS FIRE-RATED COMPOSITE CLADDING There are many factors to consider when it comes to choosing cladding for exterior and interior finishes. You want something long-lasting, good looking, and able to stand up to the climate and the elements. And for many, the risk of fire is a real concern. The Envello Shadow Line+ cladding from British manufacturer Millboard is an upgrade from their standard Shadow Line that is formulated and tested to receive a Euroclass D fire rating, which indicates initial resistance to fire as well as delayed heat release from the flames. This wood-free shiplap-style cladding is created in molds that are formed using real oak for a true wood look. The composite core is made of a mix of limestone with bits of fiberglass added for structure all bonded in a polymer resin for a nonporous result. Board sizes are 7.9 in. wide by 141.6 in. long and come in five finishes ranging from light-colored Limed Oak to the darker Antique Oak (pictured above) and Burnt Cedar (left). Currently, Outlive is the only authorized dealer in the United States, although Millboard is working on expanding throughout the country. You can purchase their cladding directly through Outlive and expect to pay around $16 per sq. ft. —Lana Melonakos-Harrison, digital editor Photos courtesy of the manufacturers FEBRUARY/MARCH 2024 71
RELIABLE RADON READINGS Exposure to radon leads to a greater risk of lung cancer, and the EPA recommends a home undergo radon mitigation if the level of radon gas is above 4.0 pCi/L. After a series of borderline results from flimsy home tests and a confidence-lacking professional test left me feeling uncertain about whether to invest in radon mitigation in my own home, I borrowed my sister-in-law’s Airthings Wave Radon monitor. This battery-powered compact disc sits in my basement and gives me constant real-time radon readings as well as temperature and humidity readings, which help explain the dips and bumps in the radon levels and are particularly useful for monitoring moisture in my basement. A few months passed before I received a notification that my radon levels had been over 4.0 for over 24 hours. After a few more months of elevated readings, I decided to have a fan and venting mitigation system installed. The Wave has since enabled me to see if the mitigation was successful with lowered readings after the fact. Airthings also makes the Wave Plus, which monitors volatile organic compounds (VOCs), CO2 levels, and changes in air pressure, and the View Radon and View Plus, which have a few more features than the Wave devices. Any of the devices can be wall- or ceiling-mounted or simply set down, and all take AA batteries. —Samantha Maver, executive editor CONTINUED TIME-SAVING SUPPLY VALVES When roughing in water supply lines for bathrooms, kitchens, or laundry rooms, it’s common to have to cap the pipes and come back later to install the valves—often working in hardto-reach spaces or dangerously close to finished surfaces. To minimize the hassle and risk while also saving precious time, HoldRite offers a line of outlet boxes featuring complete watervalve assemblies that are firmly mounted to framing before walls are closed in, and which include sturdy caps for protection during the following phases of construction. The HoldRite Fixture Box—which contains a chrome-plated brass quarter-turn supply valve—is the most versatile of the line’s offerings. It comes in copper, PEX, and CPVC versions with 1⁄4-in. or 3⁄8-in. compression fittings, so you can find one for virtually any plumbing scenario. If the valve will be in a visible location, you can add an optional thread-on escutcheon in either chrome or white, and there are extended-depth and large-diameter versions to deal with deep tile walls or oversized holes in drywall. A sturdy thread-on plastic cap protects the valve until it’s time to connect your plumbing fixtures. There’s a fire-rated and non-fire-rated version of each HoldRite Fixture Box, but the installation process is the same no matter which one you choose. Each box’s built-in wraparound flange can screw directly to studs or blocking, but HoldRite also offers a variety of adaptable brackets that can provide sturdy support wherever you want to mount your valve. A rotating tailpiece on the back means you can also face the valve in any direction you want. Fixture Boxes start at just over $13 and escutcheons cost between $1.60 and $5.10. —Rob Wotzak, remodeler View Plus $300 Hands-on radon. Airquality monitors from AirThings send real-time radon, CO2, temperature, and humidity statistics to a paired phone, alerting users when readings reach dangerous levels. Wave Radon $160 72 FINEHOMEBUILDING.COM
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or dimensional change. Finally, the wood should be treated with a sealer that would create an impervious surface for any moisture that could find its way between the flashing and the wood by a weather event or capillary action. I recommend several coats of tung oil. For the installation, I’m going to assume that the stone you will be working with is full bed depth (at least 4 in.) and will have an approximately 1-in. air space between the back of the stone and the sheathing. To avoid rust stains, I recommend using a hot-dipped galvanized-steel lintel. Before installing the lintels, cut back the waterresistive barrier (WRB) above the opening. Both the wood and steel lintels should overlap onto the stone at least 4 in. to 6 in. on each side. They will be held in place by the surrounding stone and mortar, so no fasteners are necessary. Need help? Get answers you can trust from the experienced pros at FHB. Email your question to [email protected]. Wood lintels I’m in the planning stage of building a new house. Much of the exterior cladding will be a stone veneer. I love the look of real timber lintels set into masonry above windows and doors, but I cannot find any construction details on how this is best accomplished. Can a wood lintel be structural, or are they placed above or under a steel lintel? Is this even a good idea? —SCOTT COMEAUX Orange County, Calif. Steven Fechino, engineering and construction manager at Mortar Net Solutions, replies: Historically, wood lintels were structural components, but today, it makes more sense to install a steel lintel on top of the wood lintel. Before I discuss installation and flashing, let’s talk about the wood itself. The type of wood you use should be weather and pest resistant, and if you are using reclaimed wood, it’s critical that it still has structural integrity. Also, the wood should be fully weather-acclimated. By this I mean that the wood cannot be stored on the ground or exposed to the rain weeks before installation as the moisture will move in and out of the material, creating wood movement YOUR QUESTIONS // PRO ANSWERS When it comes to flashing, the first question to ask is, “Do I really need flashing at all?” If the door or window is under a covered porch or in an area that does not have direct weather exposure, then I would probably have second thoughts. Similarly, if wind-driven rain is rare in your region, there is only 2 ft. of stone veneer over the lintel, and it’s protected with large soffits, I would have to really look close at the need for flashing. If you do need flashing, I normally recommend a drip edge for standard lintels that I install. However, historical wood lintels would not have any flashing at all, so to preserve an authentic architectural appearance, I would not recommend that a visible drip edge be part of this assembly. There are several ways to install and flash this detail, but here is one common method: Place a bead of nonstaining sealant, like OLD-WORLD AESTHETIC, MODERN PERFORMANCE In this assembly, the galvanized-steel lintel above the wood provides strength and durability but remains hidden (as does the flashing) in order to recreate a historical look. Flashing membrane End dam Water-resistive barrier (WRB) Weep vents Wood lintel Galvanizedsteel lintel Membrane fasteners WRB seam tape Flashing membrane 74 FINEHOMEBUILDING.COM Photo: courtesy of F Cuff & Sons Ltd. Drawing: Peter Wojcieszek
Get the 2023 Fine Homebuilding Magazine Archive on USB or digital download. Enjoy 320 fully searchable issues of Fine Homebuilding magazine in one place. © 2023 The Taunton Press 42 Years Available only at TauntonStore.com AVAILABLE NOW of projects, tips, and techniques for on-the-job success .cnI ,TNEV-A-ROC • 824 xoB .O.P • 8240-64564 NI ,akawahsiM Phone: (800) 837-8368 • Fax: (800) 645-6162 [email protected] • www.cor-a-vent.com COR-A-VENT® IS THE SOLUTION Save Your Siding Cor-A-Vent’s Siding Vent System: Your Rainscreen Ventilation Solution Trapped moisture can destroy your siding and housewrap before you notice a problem. Cor-A-Vent’s Rainscreen Siding Vent System solves that problem before it ever becomes one. Find out how by downloading the Rainscreen Siding Ventilation Guide today at www.cor-a-vent.com TRAPPED MOISTURE IS THE PROBLEM R 25 G 215 B 47
installation, the disconnecting means can be installed either inside or outside of the building, but it needs to be in a readily accessible location nearest the point of entrance of the conductors so the electrical supply can be easily found and shut off in an emergency. The NEC also requires every disconnecting means to be legibly marked to indicate its purpose, and the label needs to be durable enough that it won’t wear off or fade away. The exception to this requirement is when the disconnect is located and arranged for an evident purpose, for example when a main breaker in a subpanel is set apart from the other breakers and clearly labeled by the manufacturer. Whether or not you would need to label your light switch is a question for your local inspector to answer. The hardest part of your project will be digging the trench for the new wire. To prevent you or the next owner of your property from having to dig another trench in the future, you may want to think about installing a larger feeder from your home’s service panel to a new subpanel in the storage building that would accommodate potential expansion. I recently updated my son’s 1953 detached two-car garage. Originally it only had one 15-amp branch circuit for both the lights and receptacles. I disconnected and abandoned the old underground cable and ran a new underground feeder from the service panel in the house to the garage. The feeder conductors terminate inside the garage at the main circuit breaker (the disconnecting means) in the new panel I installed. In this case, the manufacturer supplied a label I could use to clearly identify the main breaker. Keep in mind that you do not need to install any grounding rods at a storage shed if you install just one branch circuit, but if you take the feeder and subpanel route, you will need to install at least two grounding rods to establish a grounding electrode system at the outbuilding. And there are several code-related provisions that cover burying a wire, so as always, have a conversation about the details of your plans with your local electrical official before you start your project. polyurethane or polyether, on top of the steel lintel about 3⁄4 in. from the face of the lintel. Install end-dam flashing on each side. You could buy premade dams, build them yourself out of the flashing material, or simply fold up the flashing membrane at each side. The membrane selection for this application should be a 40-mil material such as stainless steel, copper laminate, or synthetic rubber. Install the flashing membrane directly over the steel lintel and end dams. Hold it back 1⁄4 in. from the face of the stone, so it can be concealed in the mortared bed joint. Run the top leg of the flashing at least 8 in. up past the back leg of the steel lintel. Attach the flashing to the wall with cap nails or cap screws spaced 4 in. on center. Finally, overlap the flashing with the WRB, and seal the two with seam tape. While installing the stone, insert weep vents in the head joint over the steel lintel every 12 in. to 16 in. That’s more than code requires, but a good choice for this application. Don’t forget the disconnect I’m finally getting around to running electricity to my detached garage. The building is used only for storage, so all I want are a couple of lights and an outlet. Can I run just one wire out there, or do I need to install some sort of subpanel? —BRIAN LARSON Des Moines, Iowa Electrical consultant John Williamson replies: The first thing that needs to be determined is whether you have a garage or a storage building on your property. The answer to that question will have a direct effect on your options. If your local building officials determine that you have a garage—and they are the ones who will ultimately decide—then there will be certain criteria that you will need to meet (discussed in “Adding garage outlets,” Ask the Experts, FHB #311). This makes a difference because garages are used for storing and repairing vehicles of all types, which often involves fuel storage and the use of heaters and power tools, all of which increase the risk to people and property and are therefore regulated differently than dedicated storage buildings. If your municipality deems your structure to be a storage building rather than a garage, then yes, you could conceivably run one branch circuit to the building. And while you would not need a subpanel for that circuit, in accordance with the National Electrical Code (NEC), every building on a premises or property is required to have a “disconnecting means” that will disconnect the building from its source of supply. This applies to all supply sources including utility-owned conductors, customer-owned feeder conductors, and customer-owned branch circuits. There are several approved disconnecting means, including a main breaker in a subpanel or a disconnect switch similar to the ones used on outdoor HVAC equipment— even a standard wall switch would qualify as long as it is rated for the appropriate load. So, in your storage building, one branch circuit could be run to feed an outlet and a couple of lights, and the light switch could function as a disconnecting means as long as the switch turned off power to the outlet as well as the lights. Whichever disconnect option you use to comply with the NEC for your particular CONTINUED Label the disconnect. Because the location of the main breaker in this subpanel is not easily identifiable, an additional label is required for first responders. 76 FINEHOMEBUILDING.COM Photo: courtesy of Derek Williamson
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78 FINEHOMEBUILDING.COM Building confidence through teaching In the therapy world the word “projection” is used when someone deflects an emotion or feeling onto someone else rather than admitting or dealing with the feeling themselves. It is usually a negative concept, but in my case it was a positive one. The feeling I was dealing with was confidence, or a lack thereof. My form of projection in dealing with this lack of confidence was to start teaching other women how to do small construction jobs in their homes. They would come to me with a project such as tiling a basement or rec room, and I would work with them until they had the basic skills for whatever phase of the job they were in. Then I would come back when they were ready for the next step (for example, grouting the tile). By the time the project was completed, most of the people I worked with had a lot more confidence, more money in the bank, pride in a job well done, and less fear of tackling a project. And so did I. My motto was, “I can do it, and you can help, or you can do it, and I can help.” Building confidence is crucial to getting more women and underrepresented people in the trades. For many, all that is needed is a little encouragement and the opportunity to try. I was able to give this opportunity to other women through volunteering with Habitat for Humanity. Rhode Island’s group has an all-women’s building crew on which I worked for a while. It is an amazing group of women with varying levels of skills. The first day I arrived, we were framing up a house. While all the women had tool belts, hard hats, and hammers, I noticed a good selection of air compressors and pneumatic nailers in the trailer that we weren’t using. I asked the woman in charge why we were not using these tools and her response was that their crew had never been shown how to use them; only the men’s crew had. After getting permission, I taught anyone who wanted to learn how to safely use a framing nailer and maintain the equipment. The women were delighted with their new skills and the framing work moved along much faster. I wasn’t planning on being a carpenter, but I needed to make money to pay for college and my boyfriend (soon-to-be husband) needed a laborer and an introduction to the tricky ins and outs of living in a small community. It was a win-win situation—I knew all the people on the small island where I was raised and he knew how to build and needed an extra hand. I loved working with my hands, working outside, and creating homes. We built a successful construction company and worked side by side for over 25 years. We had a sizable crew and amazing opportunities to build impressive homes for people seeking peace and quiet. I wasn’t planning on flying solo in my 40s, but that is how my life unfolded. My was-band and I parted ways in 2015 after 27 years of marriage. He kept the construction company and I struck out on my own. It was the same year my youngest child went off to college and I found myself in a season of transition and transformation. I had recently finished a masters in counseling and had a very small practice that was far from supporting my expenses. I also had a truck, a toolbox, basic tools, and a 10-ft. by 20-ft. garage on the mainland. I needed to build my practice, my confidence, and my bank account. BY KERRI GAFFETT BuildingMatters PERSPECTIVES FROM THE FIELD Working with the body you have Being a woman in any maleoriented trade is challenging. And being a smallish woman in the trade of carpentry requires one to use one’s brains instead of brawn. I learned to lift with my legs, not my back. This is important for everyone, of course, but our musculature is truly different than that of the guys. Getting underneath and pushing with all of the muscle groups is key. I learned to use my entire body weight to make big things move or not move, such as standing on the wall when framing it on the ground. When kicking in tongue-andgroove plywood, I have to use both feet. The same goes when I’m shoveling a hole. Some of the limitations I’ve come up against have to do with height. Pushing a wall up is harder when the pivot point is just above your reach, but using props such as wall “The limitations of building with a smaller body are all surmountable with a little forethought and ingenuity and sometimes a little help.” Building confidence, community, and inclusive trades
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80 FINEHOMEBUILDING.COM jacks make the job much easier. Pushing up trusses is similarly difficult and for me requires using props. I learned early on to treat my body as a fulcrum when carrying long boards and heavy loads. Everything is more manageable if it’s balanced. The only time this really didn’t work was when I had to carry 20-ft. PVC trim boards. The flex on the board made the ends hit the ground even when my arms were fully extended over my head. I had to ask for help with this one. All of this being said, where there is a will, there is a way. The limitations of building with a smaller body are all surmountable with a little forethought and ingenuity and sometimes a little help. Just yesterday I found myself in that position. I was ready to install a 36-in. exterior door. I had prepped the opening, loaded my caulk, and set my screws and driver nearby. Then I walked down the street and asked my neighbor to give me a quick hand. He and his wife were happy to give me a few minutes of their time and not more than ten minutes later, we had the door in its opening and temporarily screwed in. They walked away with a bag of Block Island Coffee, and I spent the rest of the afternoon completing the door install. I have found that these impromptu interactions turn into the best friendships. Tips for working solo Whether you are working alone or on a very small crew, there are simply times when having another person around is crucial in both a practical sense and a safety sense. Working on a roof or staging in a remote setting are two relevant examples. On my current project I have called in help a few times. My son Dave threw roof plywood up to me this summer and my other son, Sam, helped me shingle the roof. Additionally, my partner is always willing to lend a hand when needed. This is how I get around not having a crew. When I am working alone on a project, I always have my cell phone in my pocket. I always tell someone where I’m working and when I should be home and I take extra precautions. Accidents happen quickly on the job site and it’s necessary to be prepared. Sometimes I’ll let the neighbor know that I will be on the roof or working on a ladder all day. She keeps an eye out and sometimes comes over to get a tour of what’s going on. I take a lot of time thinking things through before actually doing anything to make sure I’m doing it well and safely. I have backups to my backups when it comes to bracing walls and ladders, securing and shimming windows, setting trusses, etc. I take things slow. Gone are the days when the boss would proclaim, “time is money.” For me, time is safety. Another pro (and sometimes a con) of working with others is having feedback or dialogue with co-workers about how to tackle a tricky install or a challenging framing detail. Working alone requires a little more research online. If I’m not sure how to tackle something, I simply reach for my phone. Sometimes research takes a while, but there are many credible sources of how-to information on the internet. The local building official is also a good source of knowledge. Confidence is key here—I am constantly encouraging people just to give it an honest try. Then try again. Then start talking to the experts. There is value in learning from your mistakes, and most people are more than happy to share their expertise. I was not planning on slowing down—I guess none of us are—but age creeps up on you; aches and pains sneak in. For me, slowing down has been key to transitioning gracefully. I make fewer mistakes; I make better friends; I see more; I grow more. Working alone means that there are no other people pressuring you to move at a pace that may not be organic to your body’s capacity. The mistakes I do make can only be blamed on myself. I see them, I fix them, and sometimes I share them. I was not planning on building a third house after the first two I built with my was-band. I was not planning on having my own construction company or starting over in my 40s. But building this third house has been transformative for me. In spite of all my years working as a carpenter, I was still apprehensive about my ability to accomplish a build by myself. When I first started framing this past spring, I simply took it one step at a time. I asked questions. I made mistakes. I took my time. I built confidence. I have loved being able to stop and take a break whenever I want to. Last week I gave a tour to a little girl down the street. She was enthralled and curious. She showed me the lemonade stand she had been working on. I hope she makes the improvements she spoke to me about. I was not planning on spending the hour with her, but it was a transformative and meaningful hour. My hope is that by sharing this part of my journey I can encourage women (and little girls) and other underrepresented people that they can truly work in the trades. I want to encourage everyone that you don’t need a big crew or a specific body to accomplish big things. You just have to work a little differently, think outside of the box, have confidence, believe in yourself, and not get too hung up on the plan. Carpenter Kerri Gaffett is building her third house mostly by herself in North Kingstown, R.I. BuildingMatters CONTINUED “Confidence is key here—I am constantly encouraging people just to give it an honest try. Then try again. Then start talking to the experts. There is value in learning from your mistakes.”
FW-FH-FC 1/2v ad 22p1.5 x 58p6 NEW FROM MICHAEL PEKOVICH Available at TauntonStore.com or wherever books are sold Foundations of Woodworking gets to the very core of the craft of woodworking: laying out, cutting, and assembling joinery for furniture and other treasured wood objects. Michael Pekovich dives into a step-by-step, project-by-project description of the essential wood joints, from rabbets and dadoes through mortise-and-tenons to dovetails and miters. Master these joints and the door is open to create just about any design you can think of. FOUNDATIONS OF WOODWORKING MICHAEL PEKOVICH Essential joinery techniques and building strategies Convenience. www.StiebelEltron.us | 800.582.8423 Made in Germany Instant Hot Water Dispensers & compatible faucets ■ Patented system automatically senses and sets highest temperature for any altitude ■ Ultra-high-quality 316L stainless steel ■ Designed to last 2-3x longer ■ Tall, slim design leaves cabinet space & plugs into a standard 120-volt outlet ■ Two models of Stiebel Eltron faucets are available › Mono-Tap dispenses near-boiling water only › 3-in-1 Tap dispenses near-boiling plus domestic hot & cold water Piping-hot water instantly. Enjoy the comfort and ease of nearboiling water at the touch of a tap. With an appliance built to last. Instant Hot Water Dispensers UltraHot™ 1924 100 YEARS OF ENGINEERING EXCELLENCE 2024 Simply the Best
Alex Meaney’s job doesn’t include the gritty hands-on work that immediately comes to mind when thinking about building homes. Much of his career in HVAC has been spent at a computer or on the phone. But lately, as owner of Mean HVAC Consulting and Design, Alex spends less time in front of a screen and more time travelling the country teaching HVAC contractors how to use software that will help them design and install better HVAC systems for their clients’ homes. Alex says that he was “tricked” into the HVAC fi eld when he showed up for a job interview at Wrightsoft, an HVAC-design software company. The role was completely different than he expected, but he was persuaded to do the interview anyway. The rest is history. “[Founder] Bill Wright asked me if I knew how much heat it took to raise one pound of water one degree—which is 1 Btu, but I didn’t know that,” Alex said. “I had enough science experience to ask him the specifi c heat of water, and he said, ‘Close enough.’” A temp position became a full-time role in sales, then marketing, followed by tech support, where Alex received his “education” asking Wrightsoft engineers for the answers to all the customer questions that came his way—after which he ultimately became Wrightsoft’s trainer. After 20 years at Wrightsoft, Alex started his own company, teaching HVAC design using software to complete Manual, J, S, and D calculations, creating videos and articles on other HVAC topics, and providing consultations on specifi c HVAC systems. He has taught more than 10,000 HVAC practitioners in more than 700 classes, and has ACCA instructor certifi cation (EPIC) in addition to other building science accreditations. One of the secrets to Alex’s success is that when contractors tell him things, he believes them. “A lot of people on the bookish side of things will dismiss what they’re told by people in the fi eld,” Alex said. Instead, Alex sees it as his job to believe what contractors are saying, and to work with them to apply proven principles to their real-world situations to make the path to solving problems a little bit easier. —Lana Melonakos-Harrison, digital editor ALEX MEANEY HVAC DESIGN TRAINER AND CONSULTANT SPRINGFIELD, MASS. Keep Craft Alive is our campaign celebrating those who have chosen to passionately pursue a career in design, building, and remodeling. Find out more and show your support by visiting KeepCraftAlive.org, and use #KeepCraftAlive to share your passion for the cause. KeepCraftAlive CELEBRATING PASSION FOR BUILDING “It makes me proud when somebody takes my class and it opens their eyes to the fact that this stuff actually works.” 82 FINEHOMEBUILDING.COM Photo: Danielle Tait Photography
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