See discussions, stats, and author profiles for this publication at: https://www.researchgate.net/publication/338501878 THE JATTI MIRIEK TRADITIONAL CLOTHING Article · June 2019 CITATIONS 0 READS 1,252 3 authors: Some of the authors of this publication are also working on these related projects: Borneo Studies View project BORNEO MATERIAL, VISUAL CULTURE View project Nashila Japeri University Malaysia Sarawak 2 PUBLICATIONS 0 CITATIONS SEE PROFILE Faridah Sahari University Malaysia Sarawak 35 PUBLICATIONS 28 CITATIONS SEE PROFILE Yakup Mohd Rafee Universiti Pendidikan Sultan Idris (UPSI) 20 PUBLICATIONS 12 CITATIONS SEE PROFILE All content following this page was uploaded by Faridah Sahari on 10 January 2020. The user has requested enhancement of the downloaded file.
1 | P a g e THE JATTI MIRIEK TRADITIONAL CLOTHING 1Nashila Japeri, 2Faridah Sahari and 3Yakup Mohd. Rafee 1,2,3Faculty of Applied and Creative Arts, Universiti Malaysia Sarawak [email protected] 2 [email protected] [email protected] ABSTRACT This study discusses the Jatti Miriek traditional clothing for men and women. The main purpose of this study is to analyze the pattern design, materials used, and the process of producing the Jatti Miriek traditional clothing. There are very restricted comprehensive studies and documentations on the traditional clothing that might lead to extinction of these valuable traditional details. The data in this study were collected through fieldwork involving interviews and visual observation. The findings of this study have shown that Jatti Miriek traditional clothing has its own uniqueness that should be documented for its influence on the design of Baju Melayu and Baju Kurung since the assimilation of Jatti Miriek ethnic. Therefore, this paper highlights the design of Jatti Miriek traditional clothing through discussions on visual comparison in order to generate empirical data on the details of the design. Furthermore, through this study it is expected to conserve the Jatti Miriek traditional clothing and serve as a guideline for future researchers. Keywords: Jatti Miriek, traditional clothing, pattern design, material use, process 1. INTRODUCTION The Jatti Miriek ethnic are known more comfortably as the Malays (Tengku Zainah 1978). They are believed to be the oldest ethnic in Sarawak and had existed since 200 to 300 years ago (Bernama 2018, November 30). Yakup (2018) reported that Jatti Miriek was the oldest community in the Baram district of Miri, where they were believed to inhabit the areas along Miri River such as Likoh Miriek, Padang Liku and Taniku River. Bibi Aminah (1997) also reported that the Jatti Mirieks originally believe in animisms where during that time, they were not yet Muslims and still cling to what their ancestors believe. The Jatti Mirieks, like those of other ethnic groups in Sarawak, have their own traditional clothing. However, there is no precise estimation of the existence of the beginning of these minorities’ traditional fashion. According to the Association of Jatti Miriek Miri (PJMM), no one knew about the original design of the Jatti Miriek traditional clothing since no proper documentation was done at that time. Therefore, this paper will focus on the detailed information of Jatti Miriek traditional clothing. Generally, the Jatti Miriek traditional clothing can be categorized into three different categories where the first category is the traditional clothes that are worn at the dance and music performance during the paddy harvesting ceremony. The second and third category are the traditional clothes worn by the groom and bride during their wedding ceremony and the traditional clothes worn during special occasions respectively. According to PJMM, there are no proper documentations regarding the early generation of Jatti Miriek traditional clothing. The lack of referencing materials and detailed information had caused issues for the young generations of Jatti Miriek as well as researchers in order to learn more about the traditional clothes. Previous studies focused on the wedding ceremony of Jatti Mirieks along with the
2 | P a g e wedding costume and detailed accessories, whereby this study focuses on the traditional clothes in order to explore the pattern of the design, materials used, and the process of producing the Jatti Miriek traditional clothing. With the information to be outlined in this paper, it is expected to help highlight and introduce the uniqueness of the traditional clothing of the Jatti Mirieks. 2. METHODOLOGY This study was conducted on the basis of ethnography’s qualitative approach through the involvement of researchers in the field of research. In order to acquire the background and history of the Jatti Miriek traditional clothing’s existence and development, all data were gathered through two approaches such as visual observation and interviews. Through visual observation, the pattern designs, motifs, and materials used to make the Jatti Miriek traditional clothing were examined. Furthermore, pictures were taken for documentation purpose. Detailed information on the traditional clothing of the Jatti Mirieks were obtained by interviewing the members of PJMM who belonged to the Jatti Miriek ethnic. The samples were selected among those residing in Miri and Kuching, Sarawak due to their knowledge on the traditional clothing. From the obtained data, the authors compiled the pattern design, motifs, and materials used and differentiate them according to gender. Moreover, the details of the traditional clothing were provided graphically in the form of photographs images. 3. RESULTS AND DISCUSSION 3.1 Types of Jatti Miriek Traditional Clothing The Jatti Miriek ethnic has no specific name for their traditional clothing worn in every tradition. However, their traditional clothing can be generally categorized into three types such as those worn during the dance and music performance of the paddy harvesting ceremony as shown in Figure (i), also during wedding ceremony for groom and the bride in Figure (ii), and during special events and formal occasions in Figure (iii). Although the Jatti Mirieks introduced their traditional clothing according to specific occasions, there are actually no rigid rules of wearing them since they were regarded as the main traditional cloth that can be worn in any formal occasions. Figure 1: Dance and music performance clothes for paddy harvesting ceremony
3 | P a g e Figure 2: Groom and the bride clothes for wedding ceremony Figure 3: Clothes for special events and formal occasions 3.2 Men’s and Women’s Traditional Clothes Picture A Picture B Picture C Picture D
4 | P a g e Picture E Picture F Picture G Picture H Picture I Picture J Picture K 3.2.1 Pattern The Jatti Miriek attire for men has influenced the design of traditional Malay attire known as Baju Melayu due to the assimilation of this ethnic. The men of Jatti Miriek wear loosely fitting long sleeves shirt that is paired together with long pants. The collar of the shirt has two distinct designs. The first is collarless such as shown in Picture A while the second is with a raised stiff collar such as shown in Pictures B, C, and D. Women’s traditional clothes also has influenced
5 | P a g e the design of traditional Malay attire such as Baju Kurung and Baju Kebaya due to the assimilation of this ethnic. Pictures E and F show a similarly designed collarless blouse with three quarter length sleeves that is usually worn together with long pants and long skirt respectively. As shown in Pictures G, H, I, and K, women of Jatti Miriek also wear tight-fitting two-piece dresses known as long kebaya that are usually worn with a skirt with pleat at one side. Moreover, similar skirt can also be worn with short kebaya as shown in Picture J. 3.2.2 Materials The fabric used for shirt shown in Pictures A and B are usually made of a mixture of polyester and cotton. However, the shirts shown in Pictures C and D are made of satin fabric material and songket fabric respectively. The clothes shown in Pictures E, F, and G are made of similar materials such as the mixture of polyester and cotton. Besides that, the clothes in Pictures H and Jare made of plain velvet. The women’s wear shown in Pictures I and K are made of satin fabric material and songket fabric respectively. Accessories used on the shirt shown in Picture A and B are usually made of a mixture of polyester and cotton. However, the shirts shown in Pictures C and D are made of satin fabric material and songket fabric respectively. The women’s clothing comprises of a pair of black pants or skirt and a long sleeves shirt adorned with embroidery and gold coloured beads. There are also small bells as accessories on the edge of the sleeves of the blouse and kebaya. 3.2.3 Process The fabrics and accessories used in the process of making the clothes are available commercially. Furthermore, instead of handmaking the clothes, they are all tailored. 4. CONCLUSION This paper highlights the comprehensive information on the design of the traditional Jatti Miriek clothes. As a conclusion, the traditional Jatti Miriek clothes design has influenced the Malays traditional clothes pattern due to the assimilation of Jatti Miriek in the past. In ancient times, the people of Miriek wore clothes in plain black color on a daily basis. Then, when Islam became more widely embraced, the adoption of gold thread in the clothes’ designs began. Until today, the use of black colour on the clothes is still maintained. The findings of this study show that the Jatti Miriek’s traditional clothes are different compared to the traditional clothes of other ethnics that are full of symbolic significance and rigid rules when wearing the clothes. Furthermore, traditional clothes of other ethnics require experts in traditional costume design in order to produce their traditional clothes. Although the traditional Jatti Miriek clothes are simple and easy to produce since the production materials are available commercially, the traditional elements in the clothes are strictly preserved. Since this paper focuses on the detailed design of the traditional clothes, the authors hoped that some methods will be implemented to promote the uniqueness of the Jatti Miriek tradition cloth in future researches.
6 | P a g e ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS The authors appreciate the help of Jatti Miriek Miri Association through the information given. Also special thanks to Dr. Faridah Sahari and Dr. Yakup Rafee for the support and guidance during the completion of this study. REFERENCES Abdul Ghani, B. A. (1997), Sumbangan Budaya Minoriti dalam Pembangunan Masyarakat Melayu: Miriek, The Sarawak Museum Journal, Vol. XLVII, No. 68, Special Issue No.5, P.P 255-263. Sarawak: an interim report, Studies of Third world Societies, 3: pp. 1-99. Bernama. (2018, November 30). Jatti Miriek mahu kerajaan Sarawak beri pengiktirafan etnik. Berita Sabah dan Sarawak. Retrieved from http://www.bernama.com/state-news/beritabm.php?id=1670380 Rafee, Y. M., Awang Arshad, A. H, Siri, H. (ed) (2016), Jatti Miriek: Marriage, Kompilasi Warisan Budaya Tempatan Wilayah Utara Sarawak 2008-2015, Pustaka Negeri Sarawak, Kuching. Rafee, Y. M. (2018) Budaya Tradisi Kaum Jatti Miriek: Adat dan Budaya Perkahwinan Kaum Jatti Miriek. Siri Sarawakiana . Pustaka Negeri Sarawak, Kuching. View publication stats