The Ultimate Shrimp Book

staple of his Szechwan cooking class was Bon Bon Chicken, a zippy main
course that fused East and West. This version is updated a bit—and includes
shrimp, of course. Served at room temperature, it is a wonderful summer dinner,
a simple luncheon entrée, or even a great midnight snack. MAKES 4
APPETIZER SERVINGS OR 2 MAIN-COURSE SERVINGS

Two 2-ounce packages dried bean thread noodles

1 pound large shrimp (about 12 to 15 per pound), peeled and deveined,
or precooked cocktail shrimp, thawed and peeled

1/4 cup toasted sesame oil

3 tablespoons peanut butter

2 tablespoons soy sauce

2 tablespoons black vinegar

1 tablespoon sugar

1 teaspoon chili oil, or to taste

1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper, or more to taste

2 large cucumbers, peeled, seeded, and thinly sliced

1. Place the noodles in a large bowl and cover them with boiling water. Set
aside to soften for at least 15 minutes.

2. If using raw shrimp, bring 2 quarts salted water to a boil in a large pot over
high heat. Fill a large bowl halfway with ice water and set it aside. Add the
shrimp to the boiling water and cook until pink and firm, about 5 minutes.
Remove the shrimp with a slotted spoon or a strainer; place them in the ice
water to chill. Drain the shrimp and blot dry with paper towels. Set aside.

3. Whisk the sesame oil, peanut butter, soy sauce, black vinegar, sugar, chili
oil, and pepper in a medium bowl until completely smooth.

4. Drain the noodles and rinse them with cold water. Squeeze them with your

hands to remove as much excess water as possible. Place the noodles on a
large serving platter. Mound the sliced cucumber on top of the noodles, and
lay the shrimp on top. Drizzle the platter with the sauce and serve
immediately.

BON BON SHRIMP AND CRAB Reduce the shrimp to 1/2 pound. Mound 1/2
pound lump crabmeat, picked over for shells and cartilage, with the shrimp.

BON BON SHRIMP AND SCALLOPS Reduce the shrimp to 1/2 pound.
Mound1/2 pound sea scallops, cut in half and cooked with the shrimp.

COCONUT BON BON SHRIMP Whisk 1/4 cup unsweetened coconut milk
with the sesame oil.

CRUNCHY BON BON SHRIMP Use crunchy peanut butter, and add 1/4 cup
unsalted peanuts with the sesame oil.

SAVORY BON BON SHRIMP Substitute flavored oil, such as black pepper
oil or basil oil, for the sesame oil.

Shrimp Bread Pudding

A RICH, SATISFYING CASSEROLE, shrimp bread pudding can stand on its own as a

main course or be served on a buffet with a standing rib roast and steamed
greens. It’s even good cold the next day. MAKES 10 TO 12 SERVINGS

4 cups Court Bouillon (recipe follows), or 2 cups fish stock, plus 2 cups
vegetable stock

3 pounds small shrimp (over 55 per pound), peeled and deveined, or
medium shrimp (35 to 40 per pound), peeled, deveined, and cut in
half

Three day-old 12-inch loaves French bread, cut into 1-inch slices

2 cups whole milk

2 large eggs

2 tablespoons paprika

1 teaspoon Tabasco sauce

3 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted

1 pound crabmeat, picked over for shells and cartilage

2 cups Gruyere, shredded (about1/2 pound)

1. Bring the Court Bouillon to a simmer in a large saucepan over high heat.
Add one-third of the shrimp and cook until pink, about 3 minutes. Remove
with a slotted spoon or a strainer and place in a large bowl. Bring the court
bouillon back to a simmer and repeat with the remaining shrimp in two
batches. Set the shrimp aside.

2. Place the bread in a large bowl. Bring the court bouillon back to a boil and
boil for 15 minutes, or until reduced by half. Remove the pan from the heat
and add the milk. Pour over the bread and let soak for 1 hour.

3. Preheat the oven to 350°F. Generously butter a 6-quart casserole or 9 × 13-
inch baking pan.

4. Crack the eggs into a medium bowl. Add the paprika and Tabasco sauce;
beat lightly, just until the eggs are foamy.

5. Add the beaten eggs to the bread mixture, along with the shrimp, melted
butter, crabmeat, and half of the cheese. Mix until well blended.

6. Spread the shrimp mixture into the prepared casserole and sprinkle the top
with the remaining cheese. Bake for 30 minutes, or until hot, bubbly, and
golden brown.

Court Bouillon

COURT BOUILLON can be stored for up to 5 days, tightly covered, in the

refrigerator or frozen for up to 2 months. MAKES ABOUT 1 QUART

2 cups dry white wine

2 cups water

1 cup clam juice

3 small onions, peeled

3 bay leaves

3 sprigs dill

3 sprigs parsley

5 whole peppercorns

1 tablespoon salt

1 teaspoon chopped oregano

1. Place all of the ingredients in a large pan. Bring to a boil over high heat,
reduce the heat to low, and simmer for 10 minutes.

2. Strain the court bouillon through a fine sieve into a large bowl. Return it to
the pan for the Shrimp Bread Pudding, or cool, cover, and refrigerate until
ready to use.

CHEESY SHRIMP BREAD PUDDING Mix 2 cups grated firm sheep’s milk
cheese (such as Manchego, about 1/2 pound) with the Gruyère before adding to
the dish.

CHILEAN CHUPE Increase the Tabasco sauce to 2 teaspoons. Add 2
teaspoons chopped oregano with the crabmeat. Spread half the shrimp mixture in
the prepared baking dish. Top with a layer of 4 thinly sliced hard-boiled eggs,
and then with the remaining shrimp mixture.

GREEK-INSPIRED SHRIMP BREAD PUDDING Omit the Gruyère and

replace it with 2 cups diced feta (about 1/2 pound). Add 3 tablespoons capers,
drained, and the grated zest of 1 lemon with the crabmeat.

HEARTY SEAFOOD BREAD PUDDING Add 1 pound of raw fish fillets
(such as turbot or red snapper), cubed, with the crabmeat. Increase the cheese to
3 cups.

LOBSTER AND SHRIMP BREAD PUDDING Replace the crabmeat with 1
pound cooked lobster, chopped.

Shrimp Brunswick Stew

NAMED AFTER BRUNSWICK COUNTY, Virginia, this dish got its start as an

antebellum stew of squirrel and onions. Traditionally, the roux was light, never
cooked to a deep brown as it is in a New Orleans étouffée, because the richness
of a dark roux would have overpowered the gamy meat. As tastes have changed,
the meat has too—usually to chicken—and many other vegetables, such as okra
and lima beans, have been added to the pot. In the South, Brunswick stew is
often served over mashed potatoes; you might want to forgo the starch and
simply let the hearty dish stand on its own. Leftovers will be terrific the next day
—or freeze them, in individual servings, for up to a month. MAKES 6 TO 8
LARGE SERVINGS

1/4 cup peanut oil

1/4 cup all-purpose flour

1 large onion, finely chopped

2 celery stalks, finely chopped

2 garlic cloves, minced

2 teaspoons chopped thyme

1 teaspoon salt

2 cups canned or homemade chicken or vegetable broth

One 28-ounce can peeled tomatoes, chopped, with their juice

One 10-ounce package frozen sliced okra

One 10-ounce package frozen lima beans

2 pounds small shrimp (more than 55 per pound), peeled and deveined

1 teaspoon Tabasco sauce, or more to taste

Freshly ground black pepper to taste

1. Heat the peanut oil in a large heavy pot or a Dutch oven over medium-low
heat. Add the flour and whisk until completely incorporated. Continue to
cook, stirring or whisking often, until the mixture is lightly browned, about
4 minutes.

2. Add the onion, celery, and garlic and cook, stirring constantly, for 5
minutes, or until the vegetables soften and the flour mixture is golden. Stir
in the thyme and salt; cook, stirring constantly, for 30 seconds.

3. Whisk in the broth, then continue to whisk until the sauce is smooth and
thickens. Add the tomatoes, okra, and lima beans and bring to a simmer.
Reduce the heat to low, cover the pot, and cook for 20 minutes, stirring
occasionally.

4. Add the shrimp and stir until they are well incorporated, then cook, stirring
once or twice, until firm and pink, about 3 minutes. Add the Tabasco sauce
and pepper. Turn off the heat, cover the pot, and let the stew sit for 5
minutes before serving.

BUTTERY SHRIMP BRUNSWICK STEW Replace the peanut oil with 4
tablespoons (1/2 stick) unsalted butter.

HEARTY SHRIMP BRUNSWICK STEW Reduce the shrimp to 1 pound.
Add 1/2 pound Italian sausage, cut into 1-inch slices and browned, with the

shrimp.

ROCK SHRIMP BRUNSWICK STEW Replace the regular shrimp with 2
pounds peeled and cleaned rock shrimp.

SHRIMP AND CHICKEN BRUNSWICK STEW Reduce the shrimp to 3/4
pound. Add 3/4 pound boneless, skinless chicken breasts, cut into 1-inch cubes,
with the tomatoes.

SHRIMP AND CLAM BRUNSWICK STEW Add 12 medium clams (such as
cherrystone or Pacific littleneck), scrubbed, with the shrimp. Cover the stew and
cook for 7 minutes, or until the clams open.

VEGETABLE SHRIMP BRUNSWICK STEW Substitute two 10-ounce
packages of any frozen vegetable, either one type or any combination, such as
baby carrots, corn, mixed vegetables, broccoli, Brussels sprouts, or English peas,
for the okra and lima beans.

Shrimp Bruschetta

BRUSCHETTA, TOASTED BREAD REDOLENT of garlic and olive oil, is a Tuscan

creation, a tasting vehicle for the new olive oil crop. (Olive oil should not be
sampled alone, but in harmony with other ingredients.) Serve these little delights
as quick appetizers, or with cocktails before dinner. Or take them on your next
picnic. MAKES 16 PIECES

16 large shrimp (a little over a pound, at 12 to 15 shrimp per pound),
peeled and deveined, or precooked cocktail shrimp, thawed and
peeled

Twelve 3/4-inch-thick slices Italian or French bread

2 large tomatoes, seeded and finely chopped

1/4 cup finely chopped basil

1 tablespoon balsamic vinegar

Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

5 garlic cloves, peeled

1/4 cup olive oil

1. If using raw shrimp, bring 2 quarts salted water to a boil in a large pot over
high heat. Fill a large bowl halfway with ice water and set it aside. Add the
shrimp to the boiling water and cook until pink and firm, about 4 minutes.
Using a slotted spoon or a strainer, transfer the shrimp to the ice water and
allow them to cool completely. Drain the shrimp and blot dry with paper
towels. If you’re using precooked cocktail shrimp, omit this step and skip to
step 2.

2. Preheat the broiler.
3. Place the bread on a cookie sheet and set it under the broiler just until the

toasts turn light brown, about 1 minute. Turn the slices over to brown the
other side, about 1 minute. Set aside to cool.
4. Combine the tomatoes, basil, and vinegar in a food processor; pulse just
until the tomatoes are finely chopped but not puréed. Add the salt and
pepper and pulse once or twice more. Set aside.
5. Rub one side of each slice of bread with the garlic (each slice should take
one-quarter to one-third of a clove). Using a pastry brush, generously brush
the bread with the olive oil. Top each slice with 1 tablespoon of the tomato
mixture.
6. Slice each shrimp lengthwise in half and place the halves cut side down on
each slice of tomatocovered bread. Serve immediately.

ANCHOVY SHRIMP BRUSCHETTA Lay 1 anchovy fillet over the tomato
mixture on each toast before topping with the shrimp.

CILANTRO SHRIMP BRUSCHETTA Replace the basil with chopped
cilantro.

CURRIED SHRIMP BRUSCHETTA Omit the vinegar and substitute chopped

cilantro for the basil. Add 1 tablespoon Indian curry paste to the food processor
with the tomatoes.

GARLIC BREAD SHRIMP Omit the tomato-basil-vinegar mixture.

HUMMUS SHRIMP BRUSCHETTA Omit the tomato-basil-vinegar mixture.
Spread 1 tablespoon purchased hummus on each garlic-rubbed toast before
topping with the shrimp.

PESTO SHRIMP BRUSCHETTA Omit the tomatoes. Add 1/4 cup pine nuts
and 2 tablespoons olive oil to the food processor with the basil and vinegar.
Process until a paste is formed.

PIMIENTO SHRIMP BRUSCHETTA Omit the tomato-basil-vinegar
mixture. Mix 2/3 cup finely chopped pimientos with 1 tablespoon balsamic
vinegar. Spread 2 teaspoons of the mixture on each slice of garlic-rubbed bread
before topping with the shrimp.

SPICY SHRIMP BRUSCHETTA Omit the vinegar. Add 1 teaspoon Tabasco
sauce, 1 teaspoon Worcestershire sauce, and 1 teaspoon bottled horseradish with
the basil.

TANGY SHRIMP BRUSCHETTA Replace the vinegar with 1 tablespoon
fresh lemon juice, and add 2 tablespoons drained capers to the food processor
with the basil.

TAPENADE SHRIMP BRUSCHETTA Omit the tomato-basil-vinegar
mixture. Spread each slice of garlic-rubbed bread with 1 tablespoon purchased
olive tapenade before topping it with the shrimp.

Buffalo Shrimp

SINCE THE MID-1980S, Buffalo chicken wings have been a favorite in bars and

restaurants across the United States and Canada. Hot and spicy, dipped into a

tangy blue-cheese sauce—what could possibly be better? Nothing, except it’s
not shrimp. The spicy coating works well with shrimp’s sweetness—a
combination that practically screams for a cold beer or a glass of iced tea.
Buffalo Shrimp are best served hot, right out of the pan. MAKES 4
APPETIZER SERVINGS

FOR THE BLUE CHEESE DIP
1 cup mayonnaise

1/2 cup sour cream (regular, low-fat, or fat-free)

1/3 cup crumbled blue cheese (such as Danish Blue or Gorgonzola;
about 2 ounces)

Juice of 1 lemon

2 teaspoons onion salt

1/2 teaspoon garlic powder

1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper, or more to taste
FOR THE SHRIMP

1 tablespoon unsalted butter, melted

1/4 cup hot sauce (such as Texas Pete or Tiger Sauce, not salsa)

8 cups peanut oil or vegetable oil

1 pound medium shrimp (35 to 40 per pound), peeled, leaving the
final segment of the tail shell intact, and deveined

2 cups all-purpose flour
1. To prepare the blue cheese dip, combine the mayonnaise, sour cream, blue

cheese, lemon juice, onion salt, garlic powder, and pepper in a small bowl
and mix until well combined. (The dip can be prepared up to 24 hours in
advance and kept covered in the refrigerator.)
2. To prepare the shrimp, combine the melted butter and hot sauce in a large
mixing bowl and set aside.
3. Pour the oil into a large saucepan at least 4 inches deep and 10 inches in
diameter; the oil should be 1 1/2 inches deep but reach no more than
halfway up the sides of the pan. Alternatively, fill an electric deep fryer
with oil according to the manufacturer’s instructions. If you’re using a pan,
clip a deep-frying thermometer to the inside and place the pan over medium
heat. Heat the oil to 375°F. Adjust the heat to maintain that temperature
while you prepare the shrimp. If you’re using an electric deep fryer, set the
temperature control to 375°F.
4. Dredge the shrimp in the flour and shake off the excess. Fry the shrimp,
about 10 at a time, for 1 minute, or until lightly browned. Remove the
shrimp from the pan with a slotted spoon or strainer, and place on paper
towels to drain.
5. Toss the hot shrimp in the butter/hot sauce glaze, coating them completely.
Serve warm with the blue cheese dipping sauce.

OTHER DIPPING SAUCES

Blue cheese sauce is the classic, but you can serve Buffalo Shrimp with any
number of dipping sauces, including:

Barbecue Sauce (page 26) • Creamy Italian dressing • Ranch dressing •
Thousand Island dressing • Sesame Dipping Sauce (page 203) • Szechwan
Cold Garlic Sauce (page 194) • Tartar Sauce (page 51)

Butterfly Fried Shrimp

AN AMERICAN STANDARD. Butterfly refers to the technique that involves

splitting the shrimp down the back and flattening the two halves so that they
resemble the wings of a butterfly. Like most fried foods, the shrimp will taste
best right out of the deep fryer. MAKES 4 SERVINGS

1 pound medium shrimp (35 to 40 per pound), peeled, leaving the final
segment of the tail shell intact, and deveined

8 cups vegetable oil

1 large egg

1/4 cup milk

1 1/2 teaspoons salt

1/2 teaspoon sugar

1/4 cup plain dry bread crumbs

Tartar Sauce (recipe follows)

1. To butterfly the shrimp, begin at the neck end of each and make a long cut
with a paring knife down the back curve of the shrimp, about two-thirds of
the way through, stopping just before the final tail segment. (You do not
want to cut the shrimp in half.) Gently open the slit with your fingers,
remove any remaining parts of the vein, and flatten the shrimp by pressing
it cut side down gently onto the work surface. Set aside.

2. Pour the oil into a large saucepan at least 4 inches deep and 10 inches in
diameter; the oil should be at least 1 1/2 inches deep but reach no more than
halfway up the sides of the pan. Alternatively, fill an electric deep fryer
with oil according to the manufacturer’s instructions. If you’re using a pan,
clip a deep-frying thermometer to the inside and place the pan over medium
heat. Heat the oil to 375°F. Adjust the heat to maintain that temperature
while you prepare the shrimp. If you’re using an electric deep fryer, set the
temperature control to 375°F.

3. Crack the egg into a large mixing bowl. Whisk in the milk, 1/2 teaspoon of
the salt, and the sugar. Continue to whisk until the mixture is frothy, then
whisk in the bread crumbs.

4. Dip a shrimp into the thin batter, then slip it into the hot oil. Repeat with the
remaining shrimp, dipping and frying only as many shrimp at a time as will
fit into the pan without crowding. Fry the shrimp until lightly golden, 1 to 2

minutes, turning occasionally with tongs. Remove each shrimp from the oil
when it’s done and drain on paper towels.
5. Sprinkle the shrimp with the remaining 1 teaspoon salt while they’re hot.
Serve immediately, with Tartar Sauce on the side.

Tartar Sauce

1 cup mayonnaise (regular, low-fat, or fat-free)

1 tablespoon finely chopped parsley

1 tablespoon finely chopped chives

1 tablespoon finely chopped dill

1 tablespoon capers, minced

4 cornichons, minced (or 2 gherkins, minced)

Combine the mayonnaise, parsley, chives, dill, capers, and cornichons in a small
bowl. Mix until well blended. Cover and refrigerate until ready to use. (It will
keep for up to 3 days, tightly covered in the refrigerator.)

CORNMEAL BUTTERFLY FRIED SHRIMP Replace the bread crumbs
with 1/4 cup cornmeal.

INDIAN BUTTERFLY FRIED SHRIMP Add 2 teaspoons curry powder with
the bread crumbs.

ITALIAN BUTTERFLY FRIED SHRIMP Add 1 teaspoon chopped oregano,
1 teaspoon chopped thyme, and 1 teaspoon chopped parsley with the bread
crumbs.

JAPANESE BUTTERFLY FRIED SHRIMP Replace the plain bread crumbs
with 1/4 cup Japanese-style bread crumbs (panko). After the shrimp are fried, dip
them into a sauce made from 1/2 teaspoon wasabi paste and 1/4 cup soy sauce,
whisked together until well blended.

MEXICAN BUTTERFLY FRIED SHRIMP Add 1 teaspoon cumin, 1
teaspoon oregano, and 2 teaspoons pure chile powder with the bread crumbs.

Shrimp Cakes

WITH A VARIETY OF FILLERS, penurious Chesapeake Bay housewives once

stretched shards and threads of crabmeat (i.e., the parts their husbands couldn’t
sell) into a full meal. But even crab scraps are hardly a bargain anymore. Made
with shrimp, though, these luscious panfried patties can again be frugal
delicacies. Serve them alongside a tossed green salad—or a bowl of strawberries
macerated with a splash of balsamic vinegar. MAKES 8 CAKES

1/2 pound small shrimp (more than 55 per pound), peeled and deveined,
or precooked cold-water (or baby) shrimp, thawed

1/4 cup plus 2 tablespoons vegetable oil

2 celery stalks, minced

1 medium onion, minced

1/4 cup mayonnaise (regular or low-fat, but not fat-free)

4 teaspoons Dijon mustard

1/4 cup minced dill

4 dashes Tabasco sauce, or more to taste

2 1/4 cups plain dry bread crumbs

Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

1. If you’re using raw shrimp, bring 1 1/2 quarts salted water to a boil in a
medium pot over high heat. Fill a medium bowl halfway with ice water and
set it aside. Add the shrimp to the boiling water and cook until pink and
firm, about 2 minutes. Using a slotted spoon or a strainer, transfer the
shrimp to the ice water and let cool completely. Drain the shrimp and blot
dry on paper towels. If you’re using precooked shrimp, omit this step.

2. Heat 2 tablespoons of the vegetable oil in a large skillet set over medium
heat. Add the celery and onion and cook, stirring often, until the onion is
translucent and the celery softens, 2 to 3 minutes. Transfer to a large mixing
bowl.

3. Add the mayonnaise, mustard, dill, Tabasco sauce, and 1/4 cup of the bread
crumbs to the cooked vegetables and mix until well blended. Add the salt
and pepper.

4. Coarsely chop the shrimp and add to the mayonnaise mixture. Stir until
well combined.

5. Place the remaining 2 cups bread crumbs on a plate. Using one-eighth of
the shrimp mixture (about 1/3 cup), form a shrimp cake or patty with your
hands. Lay the cake on the bread crumbs and press lightly so that the bread
crumbs adhere to the bottom, then turn the cake over and repeat the process
on the other side. Gently roll the patty’s sides in the bread crumbs as well.
The patty should be completely coated. Set the cake on a plate and repeat
with the remaining shrimp mixture to make a total of 8 cakes.

6. Pour 2 tablespoons of the remaining oil into a skillet (preferably nonstick)
large enough to hold 4 cakes in one layer without crowding, and set over
medium heat. When the oil is hot, add 4 cakes. If you have a very large
skillet, you can cook all 8 shrimp cakes at once, using all of the oil. Fry the
cakes until they are golden on the bottom, about 2 minutes. Flip them and
cook for 2 more minutes, or until they are golden all over. Repeat with the
remaining 2 tablespoons oil and 4 shrimp cakes.

7. Serve the shrimp cakes hot, with Cocktail Sauce (page 62), Tartar Sauce
(page 51), or purchased salsa on the side.

FLORIDA-STYLE SHRIMP CAKES Reduce the mustard to 2 teaspoons.
Add the grated zest of 1 lemon and the juice of 1/2 lemon with the mayonnaise.

HERBED SHRIMP CAKES Omit the dill and Tabasco sauce. Toss 1
tablespoon minced parsley, 1 tablespoon minced thyme, and 1 tablespoon
minced tarragon with the bread crumbs for coating the cakes.

LOUISIANA-STYLE SHRIMP CAKES Core, seed, and coarsely chop 1
green or red bell pepper. Sauté it with the celery and onion. Double the Tabasco
sauce.

SOUTH-OF-THE-BORDER SHRIMP CAKES Omit the dill and Tabasco
sauce. Seed and coarsely chop 1 jalapeño pepper. Add it with the mayonnaise,
along with 1 teaspoon cumin and 1 teaspoon minced oregano.

TEXAS-STYLE SHRIMP CAKES Substitute coarsely ground saltine crackers
for the bread crumbs. Add 1 teaspoon Worcestershire sauce with the
mayonnaise.

Cashew Shrimp

A FAVORITE IN CHINESE-AMERICAN restaurants, this simple dish is a melting pot

in and of itself. Cashews are indigenous to South America but are now cultivated
mostly in eastern Africa. Celery made its first appearance in print in Homer’s
Greek epic, The Odyssey. Ginger is indigenous to China, but is now cultivated
mostly in Jamaica. And rice wine vinegar, a staple of Chinese cooking, probably
originated in Thailand. Stir-fries are always cooked quickly, so have all your
ingredients ready before you begin. Served over steaming white rice, this dish
makes a quick lunch or a satisfying midweek dinner. Follow it up with fresh
mango slices for dessert. MAKES 4 SERVINGS

2 tablespoons peanut oil

1 pound medium shrimp (35 to 40 per pound), peeled and deveined, or
precooked cocktail shrimp, thawed and peeled

2 celery stalks, diced

2 tablespoons minced ginger

2 garlic cloves, minced

1 teaspoon red pepper flakes

2 tablespoons soy sauce

2 tablespoons rice wine vinegar

1 cup unsalted cashews

1. Heat a large wok or saucepan (preferably nonstick) over medium-high heat.
The moment it begins to smoke, add the peanut oil and swirl it in the wok
for 30 seconds.

2. If using raw shrimp, add them and stir and toss constantly for 1 minute.
3. Add the celery and cook, stirring and tossing constantly for 1 minute, or

until hot but still crisp. Add the ginger, garlic, and red pepper flakes. Stir
and toss for another 30 seconds.
4. Add the soy sauce, vinegar, and the cocktail shrimp, if using. Raise the heat
to high. When the sauce starts to boil, add the cashews. Stir and toss just
until the nuts are well distributed and heated through. Serve immediately

BLACK BEAN CASHEW SHRIMP Reduce the soy sauce to 1 tablespoon.
Add 1/4 cup dried salted Chinese black beans, slightly crushed, with the soy
sauce.

CASHEW SHRIMP AND BAMBOO SHOOTS Add 1 cup canned bamboo
shoots, drained, with the ginger.

CASHEW SHRIMP AND BEAN THREAD NOODLES Pour boiling water
over two 2-ounce packages dried bean thread noodles. Soak for 15 minutes.
Drain and add them with the soy sauce. (Do not serve over rice.)

CASHEW SHRIMP AND CARROTS Add 1 cup peeled and thinly sliced
carrots with the celery.

CASHEW SHRIMP AND STRAW MUSHROOMS Add 1 cup canned straw
mushrooms, drained, with the ginger.

HEARTY CASHEW SHRIMP Add 1 onion, thinly sliced into rings, with the

celery. Add 1 tablespoon hoi sin sauce with the soy sauce.

MILD CASHEW SHRIMP Omit the red pepper flakes. Add 1/2 cup sliced
scallions with the celery.

SWEET AND SALTY CASHEW SHRIMP Use salted cashews, and add 1
teaspoon sugar with the soy sauce.

SZECHWAN CASHEW SHRIMP Omit the red pepper flakes. Add 1 teaspoon
chili oil, or more, and 1/2 teaspoon sugar with the ginger, and 1/2 cup sliced
bananas with the vinegar.

Shrimp Chiffon Ring

REMEMBER THE OLD-FASHIONED CHURCH SOCIAL? The food right off your

grandmother’s recipe cards? This is one of those dishes. It’s often made with
crab, but it works even better with shrimp, partly because they contain plenty of
natural gelatin and partly because the dish’s resulting color is so…well, pink.
Shrimp Chiffon Ring makes a great dish for a book group or a work potluck.
Serve it with crackers and Cocktail Sauce (page 62). MAKES 10 TO 12
SERVINGS

1 pound small shrimp (more than 55 per pound), peeled and deveined

1 envelope unflavored gelatin

3 tablespoons cold water

1 can condensed tomato soup

4 ounces cream cheese (regular or low-fat, but not fat-free), softened

1/2 cup mayonnaise (regular or low-fat, but not fat-free)

1 celery stalk, minced

2 shallots, minced Juice of 1/2 lemon

3 dashes Tabasco sauce, or more to taste

1 teaspoon salt

1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

Vegetable oil for the mold

1 pimiento, drained and cut into1/4-inch slices

1. Bring 2 quarts of salted water to a boil in a large pot set over high heat. Fill
a large bowl halfway with ice water and set it aside. Add the shrimp to the
boiling water and cook until pink and firm, about 2 minutes. With a slotted
spoon or a strainer, transfer the shrimp to the ice water and allow them to
cool completely. Drain the shrimp and blot dry with paper towels.

2. Place the gelatin in a large bowl and add the cold water. Set the gelatin
aside to soften for 5 minutes.

3. Set aside 6 cooked shrimp. Place the remaining shrimp in a food processor
and process until very finely chopped but not puréed—the shrimp should
resemble crabmeat. Set aside.

4. Place the tomato soup in a small saucepan and bring to a boil over high
heat. Immediately pour the soup over the softened gelatin and stir until the
gelatin dissolves completely.

5. Add the cream cheese and mayonnaise to the bowl and beat with a whisk or
a hand mixer until the mixture is smooth. Stir in the celery, shallots, lemon
juice, Tabasco sauce, salt, pepper, and ground shrimp until well blended.

6. Lightly oil a 1-quart ring mold (or any 1-quart mold, even a fish mold).
Arrange the reserved shrimp and pimiento strips in the bottom of the mold
in a decorative pattern (this will be the top of the ring after it’s unmolded).
Without disturbing the pattern, carefully spoon the shrimp mixture into the
mold, filling it as full as possible without overflowing (any extra shrimp
mixture can be placed in a small oiled ramekin).

7. Set the mold in the refrigerator for 6 to 8 hours, or until it is set.
8. To unmold, dip the mold in a large bowl of hot water for 10 seconds. Dry

the outside of the mold. Place a plate or platter larger than the mold over the
top, turn them upside down together, and rap them gently on the counter to
loosen the shrimp from the mold. (Repeat the dipping if necessary.) The
shrimp ring should be unmolded as soon as it is set, but it can remain tightly
covered in the refrigerator for up to 24 hours before serving.

BASIL SHRIMP CHIFFON RING Add 1/2 cup finely shredded basil with the
celery.

CURRIED SHRIMP CHIFFON RING Add 1 teaspoon curry powder with the
celery.

GREEK SHRIMP CHIFFON RING Omit the celery. Add 1/2 cup finely
crumbled feta (about 2 ounces), 1/4 cup finely chopped pitted olives, and 1
teaspoon grated lemon zest with the shallots.

ITALIAN SHRIMP CHIFFON RING Omit the celery. Add 1/4 cup finely
chopped pitted olives and 2 teaspoons minced oregano with the shallots.

MEXICAN SHRIMP CHIFFON RING Omit the celery. Add 2 teaspoons
ground cumin, 2 teaspoons pure chile powder, and 1/2 teaspoon ground
cinnamon with the shallots.

SPANISH SHRIMP CHIFFON RING Add 3/4 cup frozen peas and 1/4
teaspoon saffron threads crumbled to the tomato soup before it boils.

Shrimp unowaer

THERE ARE AS MANY types of chowder as there are regions of North America.

The basic Shrimp Chowder offered here follows a long-standing tradition of
cream and potatoes, popular in 1920s Boston society circles as the luncheon dish
of choice. Serve with slices of crusty bread and perhaps a glass of a tangy
German Riesling. MAKES 4 TO 6 SERVINGS

3 large waxy potatoes (such as Yukon Gold; about 1 1/4 pounds)

2 tablespoons unsalted butter

3/4 pound medium shrimp (35 to 40 per pound), peeled and deveined,
shells reserved

1 1/2 cups water

1 cup fish stock or clam juice

1 cup milk (whole, 2%, or 1%, but not fat-free), or more as needed

6 strips bacon, finely chopped

1 large onion, finely chopped

1 garlic clove, minced

1/2 cup heavy cream

1/2 cup finely chopped parsley

Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

1. Peel the potatoes and cut them into 1/2-inch cubes. Place them in a bowl and
cover them with water to prevent discoloring. Set aside.

2. Melt 1 tablespoon of the butter in a large pot or Dutch oven over medium
heat. Add the shrimp shells and stir until they turn pink, about 1 minute.
Add the water and fish stock and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat to low and
simmer for 10 minutes.

3. Using a fine-mesh sieve, strain the liquid into a 1-quart measuring cup. Add
enough milk to make 3 1/2 cups liquid.

4. Rinse out the pot and return it to medium heat. Add the remaining 1
tablespoon butter, along with the bacon, onion, and garlic. Sauté, stirring
often, until the onion softens and the bacon begins to brown, about 7
minutes.

5. Drain the potatoes and add them to the pot. Cook for 1 minute, stirring
constantly. Add the milk—fish stock mixture, raise the heat to high, and
bring to a boil. Reduce the heat to low, cover the pot, and simmer for 20
minutes, or until the potatoes are tender. (The chowder can be made to this
point up to 24 hours ahead of time. Keep covered in the refrigerator, then
return to a simmer over medium heat before continuing.)

6. Uncover the soup and add the cream and shrimp. Return to a simmer and
cook, stirring often, for 5 minutes.

7. Stir the parsley into the pot. Season with salt and pepper. Serve
immediately.

CARROT SHRIMP CHOWDER Replace the potatoes with 5 large carrots,
peeled and sliced into 1-inch pieces (there’s no need to cover the sliced carrots
with water).

ITALIAN SHRIMP CHOWDER Omit the cream and add 1/2 cup dry
vermouth with the shrimp. Add 2 tablespoons minced oregano with the parsley.

MANHATTAN SHRIMP CHOWDER Replace the milk with additional fish
stock or clam juice. Omit the cream, and add one 28-ounce can crushed
tomatoes, with their juice, with the potatoes.

NEW ORLEANS SHRIMP CHOWDER Add 1 green or red bell pepper,
cored, seeded, and chopped, with the bacon. Omit the cream. Add 1 teaspoon
cayenne pepper, or more to taste, with the shrimp.

ROCK SHRIMP CHOWDER Substitute 1 pound peeled and cleaned rock
shrimp for the regular shrimp.

SHRIMP AND CLAM CHOWDER Add 12 small clams (such as pismo),
scrubbed, with the shrimp. Cook for an additional 3 minutes, or until the clams
open.

SHRIMP AND MUSSEL CHOWDER Add 1 pound mussels, scrubbed and
debearded, with the shrimp. Cook for an additional 2 minutes, or until the
mussels open.

SPICY SHRIMP CHOWDER Add 1 teaspoon red pepper flakes, or more to
taste, with the bacon.

Shrimp Cioppino

IT MAY SOUND AS if it comes from Sicily or Naples, but cioppino has American

origins. Italian immigrants in San Francisco made this hearty stew to remember
their homeland from afar. It’s perfect for a cold winter evening or an elegant
springtime dinner party. MAKES 8 SERVINGS

3 tablespoons olive oil

2 medium onions, finely chopped

3 garlic cloves, minced

2 teaspoons minced oregano

2 pounds medium shrimp (35 to 40 per pound), peeled and deveined,
shells reserved

2 cups dry vermouth
1/2 cup minced parsley

2 bay leaves

4 cups fish stock or 2 cups clam juice plus 2 cups vegetable stock

Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

One 28-ounce can peeled tomatoes, drained and coarsely chopped
1/2 teaspoon red pepper flakes

1 1/2 pounds mixed fish fillets (such as red snapper, sea bass, scrod,
and/or turbot), skinned, picked over for bones, and cut into 3-inch
pieces (about 16 pieces)

1/4 cup packed shredded basil

1. Heat the oil in a large pot or Dutch oven over medium heat. Add the onions,
garlic, and oregano and stir until the onions are soft and translucent, about 3
minutes. Turn the heat to high, add the reserved shrimp shells, and cook,
stirring, until they turn pink, about 1 minute.

2. Add the vermouth and bring to a boil. Boil uncovered until the liquid is
reduced by half.

3. Add the parsley, bay leaves, and stock. Bring back to a boil, then reduce the
heat to low, cover, and simmer for 30 minutes.

4. Using a fine-mesh sieve, strain the stock into a large clean saucepan.
Season with salt and pepper. Add the tomatoes and red pepper flakes, place
the pan over medium heat, and bring to a simmer. Reduce the heat to low
and simmer uncovered for 15 minutes.

5. Add the fish and simmer for 3 minutes, or until the fish turns opaque. Add
the shrimp and gently stir to make sure it is completely submerged in the
stock. Cook until the shrimp are pink and firm, about 3 minutes.

6. Discard the bay leaves. Gently stir in the basil; check for salt and pepper.
Serve immediately.

CREAMY SHRIMP CIOPPINO Stir 1 cup heavy cream into the soup with the
shrimp.

HEARTY SHRIMP CIOPPINO Add 1 cup peeled turnips cut into 1-inch
cubes and 1 cup peeled carrots sliced into 1-inch rounds with the tomatoes.

LOBSTER AND SHRIMP CIOPPINO Omit the fish fillets. Add 1 pound
cooked lobster meat, chopped, with the shrimp.

SHRIMP CIOPPINO PROVENÇAL Add 1/2 cup anise-flavored liqueur (such
as pastis) with the shrimp.

SHRIMP CIOPPINO VELOUTÉ Before adding the fish, thicken the soup by
whisking in a beurre manié, made by mashing 3 tablespoons softened salted

butter into 3 tablespoons all-purpose flour until well combined. If desired, add 1
cup heavy cream with the shrimp.

Shrimp Cocktail

THE SPICY SHRIMP COCKTAIL is an American classic. Unfortunately, it’s been

stripped of some of its cachet by those little glass vials sold in the refrigerator
section of supermarkets. Nothing beats the real thing for elegance, modern or
retro. There’s a debate about whether the shrimp should be boiled or broiled. We
think broiling gives them a firmer texture—a better foil to the tomato sauce.
MAKES 6 TO 8 APPETIZER SERVINGS OR 4 MAIN-COURSE
SERVINGS

FOR THE SHRIMP
2 pounds medium shrimp (35 to 40 per pound), deveined but not
peeled

1 teaspoon salt

1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

3 tablespoons olive oil
FOR THE COCKTAIL SAUCE

1 cup ketchup

2 tablespoons Worcestershire sauce

2 tablespoons bottled horseradish

Juice of 2 lemons

4 dashes Tabasco sauce, or more to taste

1/2 teaspoon salt

1. To devein the shrimp without peeling them, gently hold a shrimp in one
hand and pull the vein out of the neck with the other. If the vein doesn’t
come out whole, use a paring knife to cut down1/4 inch through the shell
along the back curve of the shrimp (that is, the side opposite the legs).
Gently pry the shell and meat open and remove the vein under running
water. Repeat with the remaining shrimp. Preheat the broiler.

2. Combine the shrimp with the salt, pepper, and oil in a large bowl, tossing to
coat. Arrange the shrimp in one layer on the broiler tray or a lipped baking
sheet. Place under the broiler and broil for 1 1/2 minutes per side, or until
the shells start to turn a pinkish brown and the shrimp are firm. Remove
from the broiler and allow to cool.

3. Shell the shrimp, leaving the tail segments intact. Cover and refrigerate
until chilled.

4. Meanwhile, to prepare the cocktail sauce, combine the ketchup,
Worcestershire, horseradish, lemon juice, Tabasco sauce, and salt in a
medium bowl and stir until well combined. Cover and refrigerate until
ready to serve. (The sauce can be made up to 4 days in advance.)

5. To serve, arrange the shrimp on a large platter, with a bowl of the cocktail
sauce on the side for dipping or spooning. Or fill martini glasses or small
bowls with the cocktail sauce and hang the shrimp over the edges.

BARBECUE SHRIMP COCKTAIL Replace the ketchup with barbecue sauce,
purchased or homemade (page 26).

CHINESE SHRIMP COCKTAIL Replace the ketchup with hoi sin sauce.
Omit the horseradish and add 1 tablespoon minced ginger to the sauce.

EASY SHRIMP COCKTAIL Substitute 2 pounds precooked cocktail shrimp,
thawed, for the medium shrimp.

GAZPACHO SHRIMP COCKTAIL Replace the horseradish with 2
tablespoons diced onion, 2 tablespoons seeded and diced cucumber, and 3
tablespoons seeded and diced tomato.

MUSTARD SHRIMP COCKTAIL Replace the horseradish with 2
tablespoons Dijon mustard.

PICKLED SHRIMP COCKTAIL Replace the horseradish with 2 tablespoons
pickle relish.

SWEET-AND-SOUR SHRIMP COCKTAIL Omit the horseradish. Add 1
tablespoon sweetened Chinese vinegar and 1 teaspoon oyster sauce to the sauce.

Coconut Shrimp

HANDS DOWN, THE MOST DECADENT dish in the book. The sweet coconut goes

perfectly with the shrimp, creating a crispy yet succulent package that melts in
your mouth. A cold glass of beer or iced tea only makes it better. Since these
delights become soggy quickly, they don’t travel well—so serve them hot and
crispy, right out of the fryer. MAKES 4 TO 6 SERVINGS

8 cups vegetable oil

1/2 cup all-purpose flour

1/2 teaspoon salt, plus more to taste

1/2 teaspoon cayenne pepper

2 large egg whites

2 cups shredded sweetened coconut

1 pound medium shrimp (35 to 40 per pound), peeled and deveined

1. Pour the oil into a large saucepan at least 4 inches deep and 10 inches in
diameter; the oil should be at least 1 1/2 inches deep but reach no more than
halfway up the sides of the pan. Alternatively, fill an electric deep fryer
with oil according to the manufacturer’s instructions. If you’re using a pan,

clip a deep-frying thermometer to the inside and place the pan over medium
heat. Heat the oil to 375°F. Adjust the heat to maintain that temperature
while you prepare the shrimp. If you’re using an electric deep fryer, set the
temperature control to 375°F.
2. Stir together the flour, 1/2 teaspoon salt, and cayenne pepper in a medium
mixing bowl until well combined. Beat the egg whites with a fork or a
small whisk in another medium bowl until frothy. Spread the coconut on a
plate. Line up the bowls and plates on the counter as follows: dry
ingredients, egg whites, and coconut.
3. Dip a shrimp first into the dry ingredients, then into egg whites, and finally
into the coconut, rolling in the coconut until completely coated. Use the
palm of your hand to press the coconut on firmly. Lay the shrimp on a
cookie sheet or a cutting board; repeat with the remaining shrimp.
4. Gently slide only as many shrimp as will fit into the pan in one layer
without crowding into the hot oil and fry until lightly golden, about 2
minutes, turning them occasionally with tongs. Remove the shrimp from the
oil and drain them on paper towels. Repeat with the remaining shrimps.
Sprinkle with salt to taste and serve immediately.

CURRIED COCONUT SHRIMP Omit the cayenne pepper. Add 1 teaspoon
curry powder to the flour.

DOUBLE COCONUT SHRIMP Whisk 1/2 cup unsweetened coconut milk into
the beaten egg whites.

ISLAND COCONUT SHRIMP Add 1 cup dried banana chips, pulverized in a
food processor, to the coconut. Whisk 1/2 cup tamarind juice concentrate into the
beaten egg whites.

MEXICAN COCONUT SHRIMP Add 1 teaspoon ground cumin and 1
teaspoon chopped oregano to the flour.

NUTTY COCONUT SHRIMP Add 1/2 cup chopped peanuts to the coconut.

PINEAPPLE COCONUT SHRIMP Whisk 1/2 cup pineapple juice concentrate
into the beaten egg whites.

Shrimp Curry

DESPITE ITS NAME, this is American fare, part of a rich culinary heritage from

all over the world. (For the traditional Indian dish, see Shrimp Vindaloo, page
230.) Shrimp Curry makes a satisfying, come-in-from-the-cold dish for a winter
supper or a quick, easy summertime meal. It’s a rich, full-bodied stew best
served over aromatic rice. Serve a crisp green salad dressed with a light
vinaigrette alongside. MAKES 4 SERVINGS

2 tablespoons unsalted butter

1 large onion, finely chopped

1 celery stalk, minced

2 tablespoons curry powder

2 tablespoons all-purpose flour

2 cups milk, warmed

1 tart apple (such as Granny Smith), peeled, cored, and coarsely
chopped

1 pound small shrimp (more than 55 per pound), peeled and deveined,
or precooked cold-water (or baby) shrimp, thawed

1/4 teaspoon grated nutmeg

2 teaspoons fresh lemon juice

1 teaspoon salt

1/4 teaspoon ground white pepper or freshly ground black pepper

1. Melt the butter in a large heavy skillet set over medium heat. Add the onion
and celery and cook, stirring often, until the onion is soft and translucent,
about 3 minutes.

2. Reduce the heat to low and stir in the curry powder. Stir for 30 seconds,
then whisk in the flour. Continue to whisk until the flour is completely
incorporated, then cook and whisk for another 30 seconds, just until the
flour loses its raw taste and stark-white color, not until it browns.

3. Raise the heat to medium and slowly whisk in the warm milk. Whisk
constantly until the mixture comes to a simmer and thickens, about 2
minutes.

4. Add the apple and reduce the heat to low. Simmer until the apple is tender,
stirring often, about 10 minutes.

5. Add the shrimp and cook, stirring often, until pink and firm, about 3
minutes. Stir in the nutmeg, lemon juice, salt, and white pepper. Serve
immediately.

COCONUT SHRIMP CURRY Substitute coconut milk for 1 cup of the milk.

DOUBLE SHRIMP CURRY Add 2 tablespoons dried shrimp with the apple.

ENGLISH SHRIMP CURRY Add 1 cup frozen peas with the apple.

GINGER SHRIMP CURRY Add 2 tablespoons minced ginger with the onion.

NEW ENGLAND SHRIMP CURRY Add 1/2 cup dried cranberries, 1/2 cup
chopped walnuts, and 1 teaspoon maple syrup with the apple.

NUTTY SHRIMP CURRY Add 1/2 cup raisins and 1/2 cup slivered almonds
with the apple.

PEAR SHRIMP CURRY Substitute 1 ripe pear, peeled, cored, and coarsely
chopped, for the apple.

TROPICAL SHRIMP CURRY Add 1 cup sliced bananas with the apple.

Deviled Shrimp

DEVILING ACTUALLY GOT ITS start in the eighteenth century. Fiery cayenne

pepper, newly brought back from India, was added to meats, mostly to preserve
them. Ministers railed against this food trend, saying it caused all sorts of
immoral behaviors. You needn’t worry about offending the neighbors with this
dish. This blend of spices and shrimp is guaranteed to be a new favorite, for
lunch or hors d’oeuvres. MAKES ABOUT 2 CUPS

1 pound small shrimp (more than 55 per pound), peeled and deveined,
or 1 pound precooked cold-water (or baby) shrimp, thawed

1 anchovy fillet

3 tablespoons vegetable oil

2 tablespoons Dijon mustard

1 tablespoon cider vinegar

1 teaspoon minced thyme

1/2 teaspoon ground ginger

1/4 teaspoon grated nutmeg

1/4 teaspoon ground cloves

6 dashes Tabasco sauce, or more to taste

1/2 teaspoon salt, or more to taste

Freshly ground black pepper to taste

1. If you’re using raw shrimp, bring 2 quarts salted water to a boil in a large
pot over medium heat. Fill a large bowl halfway with ice water and set it
aside. Add the shrimp to the boiling water and cook until pink and firm,
about 2 minutes. Transfer the shrimp to the ice water with a strainer or a

slotted spoon. Allow them to cool completely, then drain them and blot dry
with paper towels. If you’re using precooked shrimp, omit this step.
2. Combine the shrimp, anchovy, oil, mustard, vinegar, thyme, ginger,
nutmeg, cloves, Tabasco sauce, and salt in a food processor. Pulse 2 or 3
times, until the shrimp are evenly chopped, scraping down the bowl as
necessary. Process the mixture until smooth, about 1 minute longer. Check
for salt and season with pepper. Serve immediately. (The deviled shrimp
will keep for up to 2 days tightly covered in the refrigerator.)

SERVING SUGGESTIONS

Dissolved in tomato sauce for a rich pasta topping • Mounded in a sandwich
with lettuce and tomato • Mounded in the hollows of hard-cooked egg
whites • Spooned into celery stalks • Spooned into hollowed-out cherry
tomatoes • Spread on garlic-rubbed bruschetta (see page 46) • Spread on
saltines • Spread on table water crackers • Spread on Triscuits or other
rough-grain crackers • Swirled into a can of condensed tomato soup with 1
cup milk for an easy lunch treat

BRITISH POTTED SHRIMP Omit the thyme, ginger, and Tabasco sauce.
Spoon the shrimp mixture into small ramekins or bowls and smooth the tops.
Top each with a layer of melted butter, poured on gently to form a thin coating.
Refrigerate, covered, until the butter has hardened. Serve as a spread.

COUNTRY SHRIMP DIP Omit the ginger, and increase the oil to 1/4 cup.
Coarsely chop the ingredients in the processor—do not purée.

DEVILED SHRIMP AND EGGS Scoop out the yolks of a dozen hard-cooked
eggs, halved. Reserve 6 of the yolks for another purpose. Increase the mustard to
3 tablespoons. Process the remaining 6 egg yolks with the shrimp and other
ingredients in the food processor. Spoon this mixture into the hard-cooked egg
whites.

DEVILED SHRIMP MELT Spread 1/4 cup of the deviled shrimp onto each of
8 slices of bread. Cover each with 1 slice American or Swiss cheese. Place on a
cookie sheet or a baking sheet and place under a preheated broiler until the
cheese melts, about 20 seconds.

GREEK DEVILED SHRIMP Omit the nutmeg and cloves. Add 2 teaspoons
minced oregano and 1 teaspoon grated lemon zest with the thyme.

HERBAL DEVILED SHRIMP Omit the ginger and cloves. Add 2 teaspoons
minced parsley and 1 teaspoon minced basil with the thyme.

MOROCCAN DEVILED SHRIMP Omit the thyme and ginger. Add 1
teaspoon minced oregano and 1/2 teaspoon turmeric with the nutmeg.

Shrimp Diane

IN THE DAYS WHEN Bogart and Bacall were caught on camera dining at New

York’s “21,” the dishes served at this formidable temple of chic became a
nationwide craze—and Steak Diane led the way. Flambéed in a rich sauce of
shallots, brandy, and cream, it set the tone for 1940s elegance. Shrimp Diane, a
somewhat simplified version, good served over wide noodles or mashed root
vegetables, or just with crusty bread. All you need is something to soak up the
heavenly sauce. MAKES 4 TO 6 SERVINGS

3 tablespoons unsalted butter, or 1 tablespoon unsalted butter, if using
precooked shirmp

1 1/2 pounds medium shrimp (35 to 40 per pound), peeled and deveined,
or precooked cocktail shrimp, thawed and peeled

2 shallots, minced

1/4 cup dry vermouth or sherry

1/2 cup brandy

3/4 cup fish stock or clam juice

1/4 cup heavy cream

1 teaspoon Dijon mustard

1 teaspoon Worcestershire sauce

Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

1 1/2 tablespoons minced chives

1. Melt 2 tablespoons of the butter in a large skillet over medium heat. Add
the raw shrimp, if using, and cook, stirring often, until pink and firm, about
3 minutes. Transfer the shrimp to a bowl. Set aside.

2. Return the skillet to medium heat and add 1 tablespoon butter. Add the
shallots and cook until soft and aromatic, about 2 minutes. Add the
vermouth and allow it to come to a boil. Reduce the liquid until it is a glaze
and the pan is nearly dry.

3. Remove the pan from the heat and quickly add the brandy, then return the
skillet to medium heat—be careful, the brandy may ignite. If this happens,
simply cover the pan for 1 minute to put out the flame. Add the stock and
bring to a boil. Let the sauce boil, stirring often, until it is reduced to a thick
glaze, about 10 minutes.

4. Add the cream and mustard and stir constantly until well combined. Reduce
the heat to low and add the Worcestershire sauce and the shrimp, stirring to
coat them well. Cook, stirring constantly, until the sauce is bubbling, about
2 minutes.

5. Season with salt and pepper. Serve immediately, sprinkling the dish or
individual servings with chives.

ALCOHOL-FREE SHRIMP DIANE Omit the vermouth and brandy. Add 2
tablespoons water, 1 tablespoon cider vinegar, and 1/2 teaspoon sugar to the pan
after the shallots have softened. Substitute beef broth for the fish stock, adding it
after the vinegar has been reduced to a glaze.

ALMOND SHRIMP DIANE Finely grind 3 tablespoons blanched slivered
almonds in a spice mill or a food processor. Add them with the cream, stirring
constantly to prevent scorching.

HERBED SHRIMP DIANE Add 1 tablespoon minced thyme and 1 1/2
tablespoons minced parsley with the cream.

ORANGE SHRIMP DIANE Substitute Grand Marnier for the brandy.

SHRIMP AND CRAB DIANE Reduce the shrimp to 1 pound. Add 1/2 pound
lump crabmeat, picked over for shells and cartilage, with the cream.

SHRIMP AND SCALLOPS DIANE Reduce the shrimp to 3/4 pound. Add 3/4
pound sea scallops, cut in half, with the raw shrimp in step 1. If using precooked
shrimp, cut the scallops into quarters and add them with the shrimp, cooking for
3 minutes.

Shrimp Dip

DIP IS THE ULTIMATE party food, great with beer, retro cocktails, or iced tea.

This shrimp dip is excellent on crackers, with cut-up vegetables like carrots or
broccoli, or on its own on buttered toast points. In the winter, you may want to
warm it up just slightly: place in a microwave-safe bowl and heat on high for 2
minutes, stirring once. MAKES ABOUT 3 CUPS

1 pound small shrimp (more than 55 per pound), peeled and deveined,
or precooked cold-water (or baby) shrimp, thawed

1 cup mayonnaise (regular, low-fat, or fat-free)

2 tablespoons yellow mustard

2 tablespoons minced pimientos

2 teaspoons curry powder

Juice of 1/2 lemon

Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

1. If using raw shrimp, bring 2 quarts salted water to a boil in a large pot over
medium heat. Fill a large bowl halfway with ice water and set it aside. Add
the shrimp to the boiling water and cook until pink and firm, about 2
minutes. Transfer the shrimp to the ice water with a strainer or slotted
spoon. Allow the shrimp to cool completely, then drain and blot them dry
with paper towels. If using precooked shrimp, omit this step.

2. Finely chop the cooked shrimp. Combine them with the mayonnaise,
mustard, pimientos, curry powder, and lemon juice in a medium bowl. Stir
until well blended. Season with salt and pepper. Serve immediately. (The
dip can be made up to 24 hours in advance and kept tightly covered in the
refrigerator.)

AFRICAN SHRIMP DIP Omit the curry powder. Add 1 tablespoon turmeric, 4
dashes Tabasco sauce, or more to taste, and 1/2 cup salted peanuts to the chopped
shrimp.

ASIAN SHRIMP DIP Omit the pimientos and curry powder. Add 2
tablespoons five-spice powder and 1/2 cup minced water chestnuts to the
chopped shrimp.

DRUNKEN SHRIMP DIP Omit the lemon juice. Add 2 tablespoons brandy to
the chopped shrimp.

FRENCH SHRIMP DIP Omit the mustard and curry powder. Add 2
tablespoons minced basil and 2 tablespoons minced thyme to the chopped
shrimp.

GREEK SHRIMP DIP Omit the curry powder. Add 1/2 cup chopped pitted
black olives (such as Kalamata), 2 tablespoons minced oregano, and 1 teaspoon
grated lemon zest to the chopped shrimp.

JAPANESE SHRIMP DIP Omit the mustard, pimientos, and curry powder,
and increase the mayonnaise to 1 1/4 cups. Add 2 teaspoons wasabi paste to the
chopped shrimp.

Shrimp Dressing

IT’S A SOUTHERN TRADITION at Thanksgiving and Christmas to serve baked

oyster dressing with the turkey. This shrimp version honors an old favorite made
with saltines. (And it’s so much easier not to have to shuck all those oysters!)
The casserole comes out of the oven bubbling and hot; but, unlike some
dressings, it doesn’t really hold its shape when cut, because there’s no egg in it.
The rich dressing’s buttery, sweet flavor works with any number of roasted
meats, from beef to chicken, and, of course, turkey. MAKES 8 SIDE-DISH
SERVINGS

6 tablespoons (3/4 stick) unsalted butter, plus additional for the pan

60 saltine crackers

1 pound small shrimp (more than 55 per pound), peeled and deveined

1 1/2 teaspoons sweet paprika

1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

3 1/2 cups milk (whole or 2%, but not 1 % or fat-free)

1. Preheat the oven to 350°F. Generously butter a 9- or 10-inch square baking
dish or casserole.

2. Crumble 20 of the crackers into the pan. Spread them evenly and top with
half the shrimp. Dot the shrimp with 2 tablespoons butter and sprinkle with
1/2 teaspoon paprika and 1/2 teaspoon pepper. Create a second layer with 20
more crumbled crackers, the remaining shrimp, 2 more tablespoons butter,
1/2 teaspoon paprika, and 1/2 teaspoon pepper. Crumble the remaining 20
crackers over the top and dot with the remaining 2 tablespoons butter.
Sprinkle the remaining 1/2 teaspoon paprika evenly over the top.

3. Gently pour the milk over the layers in a thin, steady stream, moistening the
entire top of the dish.

4. Cover the dish with foil and bake for 40 minutes. Uncover and bake for 5

minutes longer to create a soft crust. Serve hot or at room temperature.

ASIAN SHRIMP DRESSING Substitute five-spice powder for the paprika.

FIERY SHRIMP DRESSING Add 1 1/2 teaspoons red pepper flakes, dividing
them equally among the layers.

FRENCH SHRIMP DRESSING Combine 1 1/2 tablespoons chopped basil and
1 1/2 teaspoons minced thyme with the paprika, dividing the mixture evenly
among the layers.

ITALIAN SHRIMP DRESSING Omit the paprika. Combine 1 1/2 tablespoons
rosemary and 1 1/2 teaspoons oregano and divide the mixture equally among the
layers.

TEXAS SHRIMP DRESSING Seed and thinly slice 2 jalapeño peppers. Divide
them equally among the layers.

Shrimp Dumplings

TRADITIONALLY, CHINESE SHRIMP DUMPLINGS are made with pork fat. But you

won’t miss this ingredient with our lighter version. Dumpling wrappers can be
found in the produce section of most grocery stores. Best of all, these dumplings
can absolutely be made ahead, frozen for up to 2 months, and taken out for a
last-minute appetizer without even defrosting them before steaming. MAKES
ABOUT 20 DUMPLINGS

Cornstarch for the cookie sheet

3 tablespoons rice wine vinegar

1/4 cup soy sauce

1/2 pound small shrimp (more than 55 per pound), peeled and deveined

2 tablespoons minced chives

8 canned water chestnuts, drained and minced

1 teaspoon minced ginger

1/2 teaspoon toasted sesame oil

18 to 25 dumpling or wonton wrappers

Vegetable oil for the steamer

1. Lightly dust a cookie sheet or baking sheet with cornstarch.
2. In a small bowl, whisk together the rice wine vinegar and 3 tablespoons soy

sauce. Set aside.
3. Place the shrimp in a food processor and pulse 2 or 3 times, until the shrimp

are finely ground but not puréed. Transfer the shrimp to a medium mixing
bowl.
4. Add the chives, water chestnuts, ginger, the remaining 1 tablespoon soy
sauce, and the sesame oil to the shrimp. Stir until well blended.
5. Place 1 dumpling wrapper on the work surface. Put 1 heaping teaspoonful
of the shrimp mixture in the middle of the wrapper. Dip your finger in
water and moisten the edges of half of the wrapper. Fold the dry side of the
wrapper over the filling until it reaches the moist edges, and press the edges
together. Pick up the dumpling and use your fingers to pinch the edges
closed—a tight seal is important so the filling will not leak while the
dumpling cooks. Place the dumpling on the prepared cookie sheet and cover
it with a clean dry kitchen towel. Repeat with the remaining wrappers and
filling.
6. Lightly oil the bottom sections of a bamboo steamer or the bottom of a
metal vegetable steamer basket. Set the dumplings in the steamer basket(s)
about 1 inch apart. If you’re using a bamboo steamer, choose a pot that is
the same diameter as your bamboo steamer so that it fits snugly on top
without allowing steam to escape. Fill the bottom of the steamer with 1 inch
of water and bring it to a boil over high heat. Place the steamer basket on
top of or in the pot; cover and steam the dumplings for 5 minutes, or until
the dough is tender and the filling feels firm.

7. Serve the dumplings hot, with the soy sauce mixture for dipping.

OTHER DIPPING SAUCES

A light vinaigrette made with 1/4 cup olive oil and 2 tablespoons balsamic
vinegar • Barbecue Sauce (page 26) • Peanut Sauce (page 166) • Tartar
Sauce (page 51) • Sesame Dipping Sauce (page 203) • Szechwan Cold
Garlic Sauce (page 194)

ALMOND SHRIMP DUMPLINGS Add 1/2 cup ground almonds to the shrimp
filling. You’ll need about 30 dumpling wrappers.

BLACK BEAN SHRIMP DUMPLINGS Stir 3 tablespoons chopped dried
salted Chinese black beans into the shrimp filling. You’ll need about 30
dumpling wrappers.

HERB SHRIMP DUMPLINGS Stir 1/4 cup minced parsley, 1/4 cup minced
tarragon, and 2 tablespoons grated lemon zest into the shrimp filling until well
combined. You’ll need about 35 dumpling wrappers.

MUSHROOM SHRIMP DUMPLINGS Stir 1/2 cup finely chopped shiitakes,
into the shrimp filling until well combined. You’ll need about 35 dumpling
wrappers.

SPICY SHRIMP DUMPLINGS Add 1 teaspoon chili oil, or more, to the food
processor with the shrimp.

Shrimp Enchiladas

THE EASY RED SAUCE for these enchiladas is Texas through and through, and its

sweet-hot flavor marries perfectly with the shrimp. Serve with purchased
guacamole or refried beans. MAKES 4 SERVINGS

FOR THE SAUCE

3 tablespoons vegetable oil

1 large onion, coarsely chopped

3 garlic cloves, coarsely chopped

4 cups canned or homemade chicken stock

1 tablespoon minced oregano

1 teaspoon salt

12 dried mild red chiles (such as New Mexican), stems and seeds
removed, torn into 2-inch pieces

FOR THE ENCHILADAS

1 tablespoon vegetable oil, plus more for the baking dish

2 medium onions, sliced into1/4-inch rings

1 garlic clove, finely chopped Eight 8-inch flour tortillas

2 pounds large shrimp (12 to 15 per pound), peeled and deveined

4 cups shredded Monterey Jack (about 1 pound)

1. To prepare the sauce, heat the oil in a large skillet over medium heat. Add
the onion and garlic; cook, stirring often, until the onion is soft and
translucent, about 3 minutes.

2. Stir in the stock, oregano, salt, and chiles. Bring to a simmer, reduce the
heat to low, and simmer for 20 minutes. Adjust the heat so that the stock
barely bubbles.

3. Purée the hot mixture in a blender; you may have do this in batches. Set the
sauce aside. (Prepare the sauce ahead of time and store it in the refrigerator,
covered, for up to 3 days.)

4. To prepare the enchiladas, preheat the oven to 350°F. Oil a 9 × 13-inch
baking dish and set aside.

5. Heat the vegetable oil in a medium skillet over medium heat. Add the
onions and garlic and cook, stirring often until the onions are soft and
fragrant, about 5 minutes. Remove the skillet from the heat.

6. Place 1 tortilla on the work surface. Lay 3 shrimp neck to tail in the middle
of the tortilla. Top with 1/3 cup of the shredded cheese and one-eighth of the
onion and garlic mixture (about 2 tablespoons). Fold the bottom of the
tortilla up over the filling, then roll up to create a sealed roll. Using both
hands or a large spatula, carefully transfer the tortilla to the baking dish,
placing it seam side down across one of the short ends.

7. Continue making the enchiladas and placing them in the pan one next to the
other. They should fit snugly in the pan. (The dish can be made to this point
up to 12 hours in advance. Store the dish and the sauce, separate and
covered, in the refrigerator. Allow both to come to room temperature before
proceeding.)

8. Pour the sauce over the top of the enchiladas and scatter the remaining 1 1/3
cups shredded cheese evenly over the sauce.

9. Bake for 25 minutes, or until the cheese is melted and shrimp are cooked
through. Let stand for 10 minutes, then serve.

GOAT CHEESE SHRIMP ENCHILADAS Substitute 3 cups soft goat cheese
(about 10 ounces) for the Monterey Jack; reduce the amount of cheese in each
enchilada to1/4 cup.

HOT SHRIMP ENCHILADAS Substitute 3 seeded and coarsely chopped
ancho chiles for 3 of the red chiles.

SHRIMP AND BEAN ENCHILADAS Drain, rinse, and purée one 14-ounce
can black beans in a food processor. Spoon about 2 tablespoons of the purée into
each enchilada before rolling it.

SHRIMP AND CORN ENCHILADAS Sprinkle 2 tablespoons frozen corn,
thawed (1 cup total), inside each enchilada before adding the filling.

TEXAS SHRIMP ENCHILADAS Sprinkle 1 teaspoon chopped pickled
jalapeño pepper (about 2 peppers total) inside each enchilada before rolling.

Shrimp Étouffée

CAJUN CUISINE, typified by spicy dishes like this one, is part of the New

Orleans heritage. Modern-day Cajuns are descended from the French Acadians
forced off Nova Scotia by the British in 1758. The word étouffée comes from the
French étouffer (“to smother”) and refers to the slow cooking of the meat in the
sauce. Fiery Cajun cooking is often defined by a trio of vegetables—onion,
celery, and bell pepper—cooked in a deep brown roux (a classic flour and fat
mixture, cooked to just this side of burned). Serve Shrimp Étouffée over fluffy
white rice, although there are Cajuns who insist on mashed potatoes, mashed
turnips, or even braised turnip greens. MAKES 4 TO 6 SERVINGS

1/4 cup peanut oil

1/4 cup all-purpose flour

1 large onion, coarsely chopped

2 celery stalks, coarsely chopped

1 green bell pepper, cored, seeded, and coarsely chopped

3 garlic cloves, finely chopped

1 tablespoon minced thyme

2 teaspoons salt

2 cups fish stock or vegetable stock

1 1/2 pounds medium shrimp (35 to 40 per pound), peeled and deveined

5 dashes Tabasco sauce, or more to taste

Freshly ground black pepper to taste

1. Heat the peanut oil in a large heavy saucepan over medium heat until it is
hot and rippling. Add the flour and whisk until it’s completely incorporated.

Reduce the heat to medium-low and cook, stirring or whisking often, until
the mixture is golden brown, about 10 minutes.
2. Add the onion, celery, bell pepper, and garlic and cook, stirring constantly,
for 5 minutes, or until the vegetables soften and the flour mixture is deeply
browned. Stir in the thyme and salt. Cook, stirring constantly, for 30
seconds more.
3. Whisk in the stock and continue to whisk until the sauce is smooth and
comes to a simmer. Reduce the heat to the merest flame to keep the mixture
at a simmer, cover the pan, and simmer for 15 minutes, stirring
occasionally.
4. Add the shrimp and stir until they are well coated with sauce. Cook, stirring
once or twice, until the shrimp are just beginning to turn pink, about 1
minute. Add the Tabasco sauce and black pepper. Turn off the heat, cover
the pan, and let sit for 5 minutes before serving. The heat of the sauce will
continue to cook the shrimp.

HEARTY SHRIMP ÉTOUFFÉE Add 1 cup diced turnips and 1 cup diced
carrots with the other vegetables.

SHRIMP AND CRAB ÉTOUFFÉE Reduce the shrimp to 1 pound. Add 1/2
pound lump crabmeat, picked over for shells and cartilage, with the shrimp.

SHRIMP AND CRAWFISH ÉTOUFFÉE Reduce the shrimp to 3/4 pound.
Add 3/4 pound purchased cooked crawfish meat with the shrimp.

SHRIMP AND RED BEAN ÉTOUFFÉE Add one 14-ounce can red beans,
drained and rinsed, after whisking in the stock.

SHRIMP AND SCALLOPS ÉTOUFFÉE Reduce the shrimp to 1 pound. Add
1/2 pound large sea scallops, cut in half, with the shrimp. Let the pan sit covered
for 10 minutes after you remove it from the heat.

Shrimp Fajitas

FAJITAS ARE THE QUINTESSENCE of Tex-Mex cuisine. The marinated meat is

grilled or sautéed, then served with tortillas and a variety of sides. For steak or
chicken fajitas, the meat is usually marinated overnight, but shrimp need only 10
minutes or so in the lime juice and chile blend. There are more ideas for
combinations and flavorings following the recipe. MAKES 4 TO 6 SERVINGS

1 1/4 pounds medium shrimp (35 to 40 per pound), peeled and deveined
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/2 teaspoon ground cumin
1/2 teaspoon pure chile powder
1/2 teaspoon chopped oregano
1/4 teaspoon garlic powder
Juice of 1 lime
8 to 12 flour or soft corn tortillas
2 tablespoons vegetable oil
6 scallions, cut into thirds
2 green bell peppers, cored, seeded, and sliced into 1/3-inch strips
ON THE SIDE

1/2 cup sour cream (regular, low-fat, or fat-free)
1/4 cup finely chopped cilantro
1/4 cup minced red onion
1. Preheat the oven to 350°F.

2. Combine the shrimp, salt, cumin, chile powder, oregano, garlic, and lime
juice in a large bowl. Toss until the spices are evenly distributed and the
shrimp are well coated. Set aside to marinate for 10 minutes.

3. Wrap the tortillas tightly in a large piece of aluminum foil. Place the
tortillas in the preheated oven.

4. Heat the vegetable oil in a large heavy skillet or oil a stove-top grill over
high heat. Add the scallions and peppers and cook, stirring occasionally,
until they soften slightly, 2 minutes.

5. Add the shrimp with their marinade and cook, stirring constantly, until they
are pink and firm, about 3 minutes.

6. Transfer the shrimp and vegetables to a serving platter and serve with the
warmed tortillas, sour cream, cilantro, and red onion on the side.

BARBECUE SHRIMP FAJITAS Serve the fajitas with Barbecue Sauce (page
26) on the side.

CALIFORNIA SHRIMP FAJITAS Omit the sour cream, cilantro, and red
onion, and serve 2 Hass avocados, peeled, pitted, and sliced, 1 cup crumbled soft
goat cheese (about 4 ounces), and 1 cup yogurt as sides with the tortillas.

LOUISIANA SHRIMP FAJITAS Reduce the shrimp to 3/4 pound. Add 1/2
pound Spanish or Portuguese andouille sausage, sliced into 1/2-inch pieces, to the
marinade. (Do not use Mexican andouille, which includes raw pork.)

OTHER SIDES

2 cups chopped tomatoes • 1 cup crumbled feta (about 4 ounces) • 1 jícama,
peeled and sliced • 2 cups salsa • 4 cups shredded lettuce • 2 cups shredded
Monterey Jack or Cheddar (about 8 ounces) • 6 fresh or pickled jalapeños,
sliced

Shrimp Fra Diavolo

THE CULINARY DEBATE RAGES ON: Is Fra Diavolo an American dish or an

Italian? One side claims the dish originated in the early 1900s among Italian

immigrants in New York; this camp claims the heavy sauce is strictly an Italian-
American invention, not representative of the way people eat in Italy. The other
side argues that Fra Diavolo was once a specialty of the Amalfi Coast. In the
end, it doesn’t really matter, for spicy pasta fra diavolo is on every Italian-
American menu across the U.S. This recipe offers the simplest version, long a
favorite in New York’s Little Italy; roasting the tomatoes concentrates their
flavor, balancing the garlic and red pepper. Serve hot right out of the pan,
accompanied by a crisp salad and sliced fruit for dessert. MAKES 4 TO 6
SERVINGS

2 pounds plum tomatoes (about 12), halved

1/4 cup olive oil

6 garlic cloves, minced

1 pound spaghetti, linguine, or fettuccine

1 1/2 teaspoons red pepper flakes

1 pound medium shrimp (35 to 40 per pound), peeled and deveined, or
precooked cocktail shrimp, thawed and peeled

Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

1. Preheat the oven to 450°F.
2. Place the tomatoes cut side down in a roasting pan or a lipped baking sheet

just large enough to hold them in one layer. Drizzle them evenly with the
olive oil and sprinkle with the minced garlic.
3. Bake the tomatoes for 1 hour, or until they are lightly browned and very
soft. Remove the tomatoes from the oven and allow them to cool for 10
minutes.
4. Transfer the tomatoes, garlic, and all the juices from the roasting pan to a
food processor. Process until the tomatoes are puréed.
5. Cook the pasta according to the package directions in a large pot of boiling
water. Drain thoroughly.
6. Meanwhile, place a large saucepan over medium heat and heat until it’s hot
but not smoking. Add the red pepper flakes and stir them around for 10

seconds to release their flavor. Add the tomato purée and the raw shrimp, if
using. Bring the sauce to a simmer and cook, stirring constantly, until the
shrimp are pink and firm, about 3 minutes. Or, if using cocktail shrimp, add
them when the sauce is simmering and cook until heated through, about 1
minute. Season with salt and pepper.
7. Add the cooked pasta to the sauce and toss until well combined and heated
through.

HERBED SHRIMP FRA DIAVOLO Add 3 tablespoons minced parsley and 2
tablespoons chopped rosemary with the shrimp.

SHRIMP AND CRAB FRA DIAVOLO Reduce the shrimp to 1/2 pound. Add
1/2 pound lump crabmeat, picked over for shells and cartilage, with the shrimp.

SHRIMP AND LOBSTER FRA DIAVOLO Reduce the shrimp to 1/2 pound.
Add 1/2 pound cooked lobster meat, chopped, with the cooked pasta.

SHRIMP AND SCALLOP FRA DIAVOLO Reduce the shrimp to 1/2 pound.
Add 1/2 pound large sea scallops, cut in half, with the shrimp. If using precooked
shrimp, cut the scallops into quarters. Add them with the shrimp and simmer an
additional 2 minutes.

SHRIMP FRA DIAVOLO À LA VODKA Add 3 tablespoons vodka with the
shrimp. When the shrimp are cooked, stir 1 cup heavy cream into the sauce.

Shrimp Fried Rice

THERE ARE TWO TRICKS to perfect fried rice: the cooked rice must be cooled

completely (so its moisture content is low and it doesn’t steam the dish) and the
oil must be very hot (so that the rice doesn’t turn gummy). Standard white or
brown rice works well, but fragrant rices such as jasmine, basmati, or Texmati
are equally delicious. Never use instant rice, Arborio, or Thai sticky rice.
MAKES 4 TO 6 SERVINGS

2 teaspoons plus 2 tablespoons peanut oil

2 large eggs, lightly beaten

3 scallions, thinly sliced 1 garlic clove, minced

1 teaspoon minced ginger

1 celery stalk, cut into 1/8-inch dice

1 carrot, cut into 1/8-inch dice

1/2 cup fresh or defrosted frozen peas

3/4 pound small shrimp (more than 55 per pound), peeled and deveined,
or precooked cold-water (or baby) shrimp, thawed

3 cups cooked white rice, cooled thoroughly

1 tablespoon soy sauce

1. Place a large wok or skillet (preferably nonstick) over medium heat until it
is hot but not smoking. Add 2 teaspoons of the peanut oil and swirl it
around to coat the wok. Add the eggs and scramble them very quickly.
When the eggs are just set, transfer to a plate and set aside.

2. Wipe out any bits of egg sticking to the wok, turn the heat up to high, and
place the wok over the heat. Allow it to get very hot again. Add the
remaining 2 tablespoons peanut oil, then add the scallions, garlic, and
ginger. Stir and toss them for 20 seconds.

3. Add the celery and carrot; cook, stirring and tossing, for another 30
seconds. Add the peas and the raw shrimp, if using, and toss and stir until
the shrimp are pink and firm, about 2 minutes. Lower the heat to medium if
the vegetables begin to burn.

4. Raise the heat to high and add the rice and the precooked shrimp, if using.
Stir and toss for 2 minutes, or until the rice is hot and the grains are separate
and well distributed among the other ingredients.

5. Toss the eggs back into the wok, along with the soy sauce, and cook,

stirring and tossing, for 30 seconds more. Serve immediately or at room
temperature.

BLACK BEAN SHRIMP FRIED RICE Add 2 tablespoons dried salted
Chinese black beans, slightly crushed, with the peas.

DOUBLE SHRIMP FRIED RICE Add 2 tablespoons dried shrimp, soaked in
water for 10 minutes and drained, with the peas.

MUSHROOM SHRIMP FRIED RICE Add 1 cup sliced button mushrooms
with the celery.

SPICY SHRIMP FRIED RICE Add 1 tablespoon chili oil, or more to taste,
with the peas.

SWEET-AND-SAVORY SHRIMP FRIED RICE Omit the soy sauce. Add 2
tablespoons hoi sin sauce and 1 tablespoon oyster sauce with the rice.

SZECHWAN SHRIMP FRIED RICE Add 2 tablespoons crushed Szechwan
peppercorns with the celery.

THAI SHRIMP FRIED RICE Omit the carrots and soy sauce. Add 2
teaspoons fish sauce, 1/2 cup unsalted peanuts, and 1/4 cup chopped basil with the
cooked eggs. Top the dish with 1/2 cup finely diced cucumber.

VEGETABLE SHRIMP FRIED RICE Add 1/2 cup finely minced canned
water chestnuts and 1/2 cup thinly sliced canned bamboo shoots with the celery.
Increase the soy sauce to 2 tablespoons.

Shrimp Frittata

UNLIKE A FRENCH OMELET, an Italian frittata is cooked at a low heat and left flat.

The frittata first entered the American consciousness in 1952 when Ruth Casa-
Emellos, writing for the New York Times, tried to re-create the dishes served on