Travel Life Summer 2017 - Digital

SUMMER 2017

EPIC ADVENTURES

SEE EUROPE GUYANA THAILAND BRITISH COLUMBIA CHURCHILL

ON TWO WHEELS WHERE THE WILD BEYOND THE HORSEBACK RIDING WALKING AMONG THE
THINGS ARE BEACH IN THE ROCKIES POLAR BEARS

PLUS A CALIFORNIA ROAD TRIP
HANOI: THE PARIS OF THE EAST

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EDITOR’S

LETTER

“ We live in a wonderful The word adventure means different things to different people.
world that is full of There’s the marked contrast between urban and wilderness
beauty, charm, and adventures. Some might consider adventure to be a weekend
adventure. There is no hike, just a stone’s throw from home, while others might traverse
end to the adventures the globe looking for the biggest adrenaline-pumping activities
we can have if we only they can find. In this issue, we feature a collection of travel
seek them with our inspiration that generally falls somewhere in between. They’re all
eyes open.” - Jawahal impressive in their own way, whether it’s exploring the bustling
Nehru, while wandering city of Hanoi, taking your golf clubs to Wales, cycling in Europe
the old-town streets in or trekking through the jungle in Guyana.
Romania.
If the beach is not your thing, plot a different course in Thailand.
WHERE TO FIND ME Adventure travel could also mean travelling with an adventurous
palate, as you’ll discover in Matters of Taste.
[email protected]
And we often think globally in terms of epic adventures, but
@tammycecco there is a lot we can experience right here in Canada, too, like
horseback riding through the Canadian Rockies. And if you’re
okay experiencing cooler temperatures during your summer
adventure, consider booking a trip that will put you in the heart
of polar bear territory.

Speaking of Canada, we look forward to the next two issues that
continue to celebrate 150 years of this great big country of ours.
There is much to discover.

Wherever your adventures take you this summer, let them be
epic and leave a lasting impression long after you’ve come
home.

Tammy Cecco

EDITOR IN CHIEF

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CONTENTS

2 EDITOR’S LETTER 10 12 PHOTO CREDITS: 10 4 RIVERS FLOATING LODGE • 12 REKS OPTICS • 15 NICKELODEON RESORT, PUNTA CANA 18 SAMODE PALACE • 22 DIANE SLAWYCH
PLOTTING YOUR NEXT ADVENTURE 15 16
18
7 CONTRIBUTORS 22
32
UNIQUE & BOUTIQUE
10 “ROUGHING IT” IN STYLE

THE OUTDOORS AND LUXURY COME
TOGETHER WITH THESE GLAMPING AND
ADVENTURE-STYLE HOTELS

12 TRAVEL ESSENTIALS

OPTIMUM GEAR FOR AN EPIC ADVENTURE

AGENT’S CHOICE
15 FAMILY RESORTS

AN ITRAVEL2000 EXPERT RECOMMENDS SOME
GREAT FAMILY RESORTS

JOURNALS
16 CANADIAN EXPERIENCES

WHY NOT ADD SOMETHING
QUINTESSENTIALLY CANADIAN TO YOUR
NEXT TRAVEL ADVENTURE?

SPA CORNER
18 A GOLD STAR

THE LUXURIOUS, GOLDEN SAMODE PALACE
NEAR JAIPUR OFFERS SOOTHING RESPITE
FROM A HECTIC ITINERARY

20 INSIDE CRUISING
ON-BOARD ACTIVITIES

CRUISE LINES ARE UPPING THE ANTE WHEN IT
COMES TO ON-BOARD ACTIVITIES

THE FOODIE FILES
22 ON A ROLL

THE WORLD’S LONGEST LOBSTER ROLL
COMPETITION IS JUST A SAMPLE OF PEI’S
ANNUAL SHELLFISH FESTIVAL

24 MATTERS OF TASTE

WHEN IT COMES TO CULINARY CUSTOMS,
TASTE IS RELATIVELY RELATIVE

26 PRIMO PATIOS

DISCOVER SOME OF THE WORLD’S COCKTAIL
HOTSPOTS

ASK THE CONCIERGE
28 MAYRYNA MYROSHNYKOVA

THE CONCIERGE AT ANDAZ OTTAWA BYWARD
MARKET SHARES HER OTTAWA FAVOURITES

PAY IT FORWARD
30 BACKYARD VOLUNTOURISM

STAY IN CANADA TO LEND A HELPING HAND
WHILE ON VACATION

CITY ESCAPES
32 STEP AWAY FROM MANHATTAN

EXPLORE SOME OTHER BOROUGHS IN
THE BIG APPLE ON YOUR NEXT VISIT

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40

48 38 44 ROAD TRIP
54 34 SUN, SAND AND COMPROMISE
40 BONNIE MUNDAY • 44 ROBERT POSTMA • 48 JESSICA PADYKULA • 54 ERIC FLETCHER
A FAMILY ROAD TRIP THROUGH CALIFORNIA
SATISFIES THE WHOLE FAMILY

DISCOVERIES
37 THE PARIS OF THE EAST

HANOI’S FRENCH INFLUENCE BLENDS IN WITH THE
REST OF THE CITY’S BUSTLING CULTURE

40 VIVE THE VILLA

RENTING A VILLA IS THE PERFECT
ACCOMMODATION FOR A MULTI-GENERATIONAL
TRIP TO SAINT-REMY-DE-PROVENCE

EPIC ADVENTURES
44 NO AVERAGE BEAR

WALKING AMONG POLAR BEARS WITH NANUK
POLAR BEAR LODGE IS A BOYHOOD DREAM
COME TRUE

48 BEYOND THE BEACH

ADVENTURE AWAITS IN SOUTHERN THAILAND’S
KHAO SOK NATIONAL PARK

52 WHERE THE WILD THINGS ARE

A TRIP THROUGH THE RUGGED GUYANESE
RAINFOREST REVEALS NUMEROUS WILD SPECIES

54 BACK IN THE SADDLE

NORTHERN B.C.’S RUGGED MUSKWA-KECHIKA ON
HORSEBACK LEAVES LIFE-LONG IMPRESSIONS

56 SEE EUROPE ON TWO WHEELS

CONSIDER CYCLING YOUR WAY THROUGH A
COUNTRY—OR TWO!

60 GREEN MILES

WELSH COURSES LIVE UP TO THE COUNTRY’S
WORLD-CLASS GOLF REPUTATION

CONTRIBUTORS

This issue, we asked our contributors: Which summer vacation
would you want to revisit?

DOUG WALLACE

MATTERS OF TASTE, PAGE 24 COVER IMAGE:
Kayaing in Surat Thani
Doug Wallace is a Toronto-based writer, Photo courtesy of Tourism
editor, content curator and media advisor, Authority of Thailand
principal of Wallace Media and editor/
publisher of TravelRight.Today. His travels PUBLISHER/ Tammy Cecco
have seen him hot-air ballooning in Turkey, EDITOR IN CHIEF
skiing in Charlevoix, biking through Kyoto
at cherry blossom time, conferring with SENIOR Tara Nolan
sheep farmers in Wales and taste-testing CONTRIBUTING EDITOR

martinis on Miami Beach.

“My top summer vacation do-over is to once again eat my way around the Scottish DESIGN DIRECTOR Joyce Padilla
Highlands, from Aberdeen to the Isle of Skye, eating and drinking as much as I can, as PRODUCTION Interact Multimedia Group
slowly as I can.” interactmg.com
@interactmg
DAVE FINN
Gregory Alexander
GREEN MILES, PAGE 60
CONTRIBUTORS Diana Ballon
Dave Finn is a freelance golf travel writer/ Dave Finn
photographer and a three-time national Eric Fletcher
award recipient from the Golf Journalists Katharine Fletcher
and the Travel Media Association of Waheeda Harris
Canada. Dave has golfed in eight Canadian Bonnie Munday
provinces, 17 U.S. states and 18 countries, Tara Nolan
but says there are so many more places he Doug O’Neil
needs to explore. Dave is the Canadian correspondent for the Top 100 Golf Courses of Jessica Padykula
the World and writes for a number of well-known publications. Follow his golf travel Parm Parmar
adventures at GolfTravelandLeisure.com. Beth Pollock
Chris Ryall
“My ideal summer destination would be Cape Breton Island because of the breathtaking Diane Slawych
views along the Cabot Trail, musical heritage, friendly atmosphere and three courses Sharon Matthews-Stevens
ranked in the Top 100 of the World.” Mark Stevens
Nathalie Tanious
Doug Wallace

BONNIE MUNDAY ADVERTISING, [email protected]
SPONSORSHIP, Tel: 416.805.5159
VIVE THE VILLA, PAGE 40 OPPORTUNITIES
& EVENT COVERAGE
Bonnie Munday is a freelance editor and
writer whose favourite subjects are active SUBSCRIPTIONS
lifestyle, food and travel. She recently
returned from a two-month backpacking Travel Life is published every quarter by
trip through Southeast Asia with her D.M.E. and is independently owned.
husband, which was a true cultural
adventure. But she’s just as happy road-tripping across Canada or enjoying Europe by Opinions expressed in Travel Life are those of the
train—and if she can take her road bike along, even better. authors, and do not necessarily reflect the view of
the publisher or advertisers. Travel Life does not
“Provence, of course! But a close second would be the family trip when we rented a villa in
Tuscany.” assume liability for content.

All rights reserved. Re-production in whole or in part
without permission is prohibited. For re-production

request send an email to [email protected]

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UNIQUE & BOUTIQUE “ROUGHING IT”OurlatestUnique&Boutiquecolumn
GLAMPING
brings us to glamping and adventure-
British Columbia style properties around the world,
where the outdoors and luxury
Clayoquot Wilderness Resort
In Stylecometogether

BY CHRIS RYALL

Travel isn’t just about lying on a beach with your favourite cocktail. Mother Nature
offers a variety of places to explore nature’s bounty, from lush rainforests and
majestic mountains, to endless grasslands and hidden lagoons. Why experience

the world’s best scenery from a painting or photograph when
you can see it first-hand? Discover your adventurous side while
enjoying the personalized luxury you desire with these very special
properties.

Indonesia

The Canopi Resort

Hop a ferry from Singapore to the Indonesian island of Bintan and
be transported back to 18th century colonial times at The Canopi,
an innovative, luxury, all-tents resort. Slip under the cool sheets
of your four-poster bed or into the warm waters of your personal
outdoor whirlpool tub that’s surrounded by lush forests. Dip your toes
in the Crystal Lagoon’s brilliant azure waters, take a solar boat tour, or
for a real thrill, rise above the water on a Jetovator. Go off-roading on
an island ATV adventure and end the day with a magical pontoon ride
chasing fireflies through the mangroves. thecanopi.com
Photos by The Canopi Resort
Photos by Clayoquot Wilderness Resort
Board a float plane from
Vancouver (45 minutes) or a
boat from Tofino (40 minutes)
and arrive at Clayoquot
Wilderness Resort, located
in the UNESCO designated
Clayoquot Sound Biosphere
Reserve. Inaccessible to cars,
the 25 well-appointed white
prospector tents provide the
perfect balance between a
remote, nature-infused escape
and a personalized, five-star-
plus experience. Fine dining
and locally inspired dishes
satisfy your palate, while you
engage in everything from taking a helicopter for a mountainside picnic, fishing
and hiking, to traversing river valleys on horseback. Restore your senses and
achieve ultimate wellness at the Healing Grounds Spa. wildretreat.com

Photos by Michael KleinbergCambodia Patagonia - Chile
Photos by explora
4 Rivers Floating Lodge explora Patagonia
Photos by 4 Rivers Floating Lodge
Instead of lodging near the water, Patagonia’s stunning landscape remains as it was when
why not stay in a room on the water? Portuguese explorer Ferdinand Magellan set foot
Each of the 12 eco-friendly and luxuriously furnished there almost 500 years ago. Tucked away in the middle
tented villas is built on a pontoon with unobstructed views of Torres del Paine National Park, on the shores of
of the river and mountains. Sip your favourite cocktail Lake Pehoé, is explora Patagonia. Spectacular sights
from your private sun-lounger balcony. Only the sounds of the craggy Paine mountain ridge and its formidable
emanating from the Cardamom Mountains rainforest or granite towers await your viewing pleasure from your
a kayaker gently paddling along the Tatai River will break specially designed room. The hotel is an architectural
the silence of your stay at this lodge on Koh Andet Island salute to its natural surroundings. Disconnect from
in southwestern Cambodia. This luxury eco-lodge respects society’s stresses and choose from more than 50
nature’s triumvirate—the rainforest, the mountains and different guided hikes and horseback rides available
the rivers. Pack your camera and head out on a tour to experience the area’s glaciers, lakes and mountains.
to see exotic wildlife, such as the Javan rhinoceros, Interact and ride with a traditional gaucho and then
Indochinese tiger or Asian elephant, or explore marine savour healthy cuisine accompanied by fine Chilean
life on a guided Tatai River cruise. ecolodges.asia wine. explora.com

Gobi Desert -Mongolia

Three Camel Lodge

Feeling nomadic? Combine cultural curiosity with
adventure at Three Camel Lodge, the only luxury
accommodation in the Gobi Desert. Marco Polo
came here searching for trade routes 700 years ago.
Today, paleontologists, archeologists, filmmakers,
cultural enthusiasts and luxury travellers seek out
the Gobi Desert’s dramatic landscape from vast
grasslands and the Gobi-Altai Mountains to dinosaur
fossils and Mongolian nomadic culture. Stay in a
traditional Mongolian ger made of felt and canvas—
the central top opening allows stargazing from your
hand-painted wooden bed. Learn about Mongolia’s
nomadic culture through performances of their hoomi
(throat) singing. Visit nomadic families, tour ancient
empires and marvel at the bones of extinct dinosaurs.
Go horseback riding through grasslands or camel
trekking amongst sand dunes. threecamellodge.com

TRAVEL ESSENTIALS
OUTDOORSY GEAR

Compact charging solution OApdfEotGvpiremeinacauntrumre
By Jessica Padykula
No matter where we travel, we rely on phones and other
devices to keep us connected. But depending on where Versatile leggings with SPF
we end up, charging those devices isn’t always easy. The
FlipStick can be carried in your purse or back pocket, and Ideal for paddle-boarding, surfing or just
provides up to one full charge for your smart phone. The spending time by or on the water, these
built-in USB cable and the added loop make for ultimate navy and white striped leggings are made
convenience no matter where you’re travelling. (Available of UV50+ fabric for go-anywhere sun
with a built-in micro-USB, Lightning or Type-C connector.) protection. Comfortable and easy to pack,
Price: $41 these are also quick drying, lightweight
Available at: tylt.com/flipstick and fully breathable.
Price: $117
Travel-sized Bluetooth speakers Available at: snapperrock.com

Just because you’re on an epic adventure, doesn’t
mean you won’t want to listen to music. These
new speakers are the ideal size to take on hiking
adventures or a trip to the beach. Designed to
fill big spaces with music for up to 13 hours, this
compact speaker floats when tossed overboard
and has a built-in, water-tight dry box to store cash,
cards and keys.
Price: $200
Available at: Best Buy or bestbuy.ca

Espresso, anywhere

Whether backcountry camping, hiking or
biking, don’t compromise on coffee quality
while you travel. The Minipresso Portable
Travel Espresso Machine is a compact,
lightweight and versatile way to have a
café-quality shot of espresso—anytime,
anywhere. Simply add ground coffee to
the filter basket, apply slight pressure to
level the grind, add hot water and pump a
few strokes to extract the perfect shot of
espresso.
Price: $60
Available at: amazon.ca

TRAVELLIFE.CA SUMMER 2017 | 12

A camera built for adventure

This waterproof camera is perfect for trips
to the beach, hiking in the mountains, family
snowboarding breaks or any other activity an
adventure traveller might want to record—without
worrying about bumps, breaks or leaks. Vivitar’s
DVR 786HD Action Cam allows you to record
crystal-clear footage and comes with a helmet
and bicycle mount so you can even record while
you’re on the move. The durable, yet lightweight,
camera also features a remote-control touchscreen
display with full 1080p HD video and comes with a
waterproof case.
Price: $100
Available at: amazon.ca

Sporty and stylish swimwear Ultra-durable sunglasses

Swimwear that’s both functional and The last thing you want on any trip is to deal with
fashionable isn’t always easy to find. But, cracked or broken sunglasses. That shouldn’t be
this two-piece, inspired by the blues of a problem with REKS. The stylish, lightweight,
the Moroccan seaside, is both stylish and sturdy-yet-unbreakable shades are made with the
sporty at the same time. The top, with highest quality shatter-resistant polycarbonate
sportsback crossover, is lined with thin lenses, so there’s no need to worry about dropping
padding, providing extra support for any your sunglasses, stepping on them or tossing them
cup size. Matching bikini bottoms offer a around in your backpack.
comfortable elasticised fit that works with a Price: From $50
variety of body types. Available at: reksoptics.com
Price: $164 (for top and bottom)
Available at: snapperrock.com A comfortable and colourful
backpack
Easily capture your
adventure Backpacks should be comfortable, whether
you’re wearing one for a day or a week. This
Perfect for anyone looking for a one’s got you covered. Water-resistant and with
hands-free way to capture aerial reinforced webbing to protect your back, the
footage of their adventure, MEC Mistral 55 Backpack, in a vibrant shade
AirDog is the only drone built of turquoise, is a spacious and streamlined
for action sports. Its unique packing solution. Pockets channel air into a
GPS tracking and sensor fusion space between the pack and your back to
technology give users the ability keep you cool as you travel, and a
to capture shots without taking top-loading design makes it easy to
away from the action. Users find what you need on the go.
wear the AirLeash, a waterproof Price: $144
tracker and controller, while Available at: MEC and mec.ca
the drone follows their every
move, eliminating the need for
a person to fly it. Designed for
portability, the legs of the AirDog
also fold up for easy packing.
Price: $2,000
Available at: amazon.ca

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AGENT’S CHOICE
FAMILY RESORTS

FAAGEMNTI’SLCYHORICEESORTS

Travel Life recently spoke to Ann Chiem, an itravel2000 travel expert, about how to
plan your next family vacation

Are you planning to pack up the kids and Street characters and dancing with Big Bird at Yhi Spa, Paradisus La Esmeralda, Playa Del Carmen
head somewhere with the family anytime Beaches Turks & Caicos will always make my
soon? Planning a family vacation can be fun, daughter and I smile. The children’s swim-up Making friends at Nickelodeon Resort in Punta Cana
but choosing the right resort can sometimes bar even had cotton candy.
be stressful. However, it’s worth it in the end FAADRNVOINCME • Book your seats in advance to ensure you sit as a family
when you get the quality family time you Babies and young picky eaters are well taken and avoid any additional stress on your day of travel.
were hoping for—spending time together in care of at Paradisus La Esmeralda in Playa WestJet and Air Canada will pre-book for the family, at no
the pool, sharing adventures or just hanging Del Carmen, Mexico. The resort takes dietary additional charge, if you are travelling with kids under the
out without the interruptions of day-to-day requests from picky eaters and provides a age of 12.
life. daily fresh baby food menu. When the kids
are finished eating, they can enjoy Yhi Spa, • Check with the airline/tour operator to see if there are
As a travel agent and mom, I know it is specifically made for youth, be a chef for any special perks for kids that can make the vacation fun
sometimes a bit tricky to find the perfect a day or learn to DJ, while Mom and Dad “right out of the gate.” A separate line at check-in, priority
resort for your family. You want to be sure do wine or tequila tasting. Book the Family boarding, toys, puzzles and activity books are just a few of
that it can accommodate everyone in one Concierge section, and enjoy the exclusive the benefits that are offered by some.
room, have entertaining activities for family heated family pool complete with popcorn
fun and maybe even have an opportunity and other treats. Sit back, relax and let your • Travel with medical insurance. Accidents can happen and
for a little adult-only time for the parents. Of concierge plan out your vacation fun. a visit to the doctor while abroad can be quite expensive
course, great food and drinks are important, This resort also accommodates a family of without coverage.
too. I’ve experienced a few resorts that are five in one room compared to the industry
guaranteed to tick all of these boxes and standard of four. ! LOOKING TO PLAN A FAMILY GETAWAY?
that you and your family will enjoy from the Give Ann a call at 1.866.WOW.DEAL (969.3325)
minute your troupe arrives in the lobby. Playtime does not stop at the Nickelodeon ext. 2197 or email her at [email protected]
Resort in Punta Cana, Dominican Republic.
Hard Rock Hotel & Casino Punta Cana in During my stay, I found the staff to be
Dominican Republic is one resort that incredible and their Gourmet All- Inclusive
I’ve enjoyed with my family and it does will definitely satisfy the family’s taste buds.
not disappoint. It offers several levels of Rolling out the orange carpet upon your
accommodation, including the two-bedroom arrival, parents are greeted with champagne
Signature Family Suite that at 1,715 square and kids with the infamous green slime
feet, complete with an Xbox 360 and special drink! All of our favourite Nickelodeon
amenities for the kids, gives most families all characters were there. The resort has suites
the space and privacy that they need. The and villas that sleep up to six—including
resort features a water park that will allow for The Pineapple, inspired by the unique home
some thrills, as well as relaxation floating on of SpongeBob SquarePants. Parents with
the lazy river. When the sun goes down, you small children can travel lighter as the resort
can choose from nine restaurants without supplies baby food, strollers and bottle
needing a reservation. Be sure to check out warmers, as well as other amenities for
their calendar of events and concerts as they infants and toddlers at no additional charge.
are well-known for A-list entertainment.
A family vacation is meant to allow you to
A family vacation is all about talking put your daily routine aside and kick back,
nonsense with your children, eating ice relax and have fun. Family time is precious,
cream or just being silly on stage at night. so enjoy your vacation to the fullest whether
These special moments will remain with it is just a few days or two weeks. Finding a
you and your kids forever. Speaking of place that the whole family will enjoy is the
memories, marching along with Sesame first step.

EXPERIENCECANADA Oh, Canada! - 150

WHY NOT ADD SOMETHING QUINTESSENTIALLY CANADIAN TO YOUR NEXT TRAVEL CANADIAN EXPERIENCES
ADVENTURE? FROM SPIRITUAL ADVENTURES ON THE WEST COAST, TO SIGHTSEEING IN THE
ATLANTIC, TO CHARMING HIKES IN QUEBEC’S MAPLE FORESTS, THERE ARE ENDLESS UNIQUE

EXPERIENCES JUST BEGGING TO BE DISCOVERED IN CANADA. START YOUR NEXT BUCKET
LIST TRAVEL ADVENTURE WITH A UNIQUE EXPERIENCE IN YOUR VERY OWN BACKYARD.

COMBINING INDIGENOUS HISTORY AND WINE EMBRACE THE SPIRIT OF THE WEST
Osoyoos, British Columbia Bindloss, Alberta

Nk’Mip Cellars is the first Aboriginal-owned winery Bar Diamond Guest ranch is a 34,000-acre working
in North America. Immerse yourself in the history of ranch along the Red Deer River in Bindloss, Alberta.
the Osoyoos Indian Band and see how their respect Here, you’ll live like a real cowboy in the comfortable
for hard work, innovation, and responding to the rooms of a log ranch house, enjoy hearty homestyle
challenges of nature, shines through in their meals and take in the scenery on the verandah at
production of award-winning wines. Experience night. Discover more than 600 Blackfoot teepee
a tasting tour like no other that combines history, rings, two medicine wheels, an ancient vision quest
culture and wine. (nkmipcellars.com) site and native wildlife as you explore the country-
side by horse or on foot. (bardiamondguestranch.ca)

FIND INNER PEACE IN ULTIMATE TRANQUILITY EVEN THE SKIES CAN DANCE
Salt Spring Island, British Columbia Whitehorse, Yukon

Rejuvenate and refresh with the Paradise Found yoga Experience the northern lights with a four-day
retreat on Salt Spring Island. Focusing on Kundalini (three-night) viewing tour with Arctic Range
yoga, a practice aimed at stimulating your spiritual Adventure. By day, explore Whitehorse by going on
awareness, yogis of all levels of experience look sightseeing tours, shopping and taking in endless
inwards to discover greater inner peace. Well- mountain views. By night, bundle up and watch
appointed accommodation, healthy vegetarian the northern lights paint the sky with streaks of
meals and the island’s arts, culture and natural green, blue and purple. For the best views, venture
beauty make finding bliss easy. (paradisefound.ca) outside the city to the AuroraCentre and enjoy them
by a roaring fire. Plan to visit from mid-August to
late April when the lights are at their most vibrant.
(arcticrange.com)

DISCOVER YOUR INNER OLYMPIAN SNEAK AROUND UNDERGROUND SOMETIMES IT IS GOOD FOR CROPS TO FREEZE CELEBRATE NATURE AND THE GROUP OF SEVEN
Calgary, Alberta Moose Jaw, Saskatchewan Niagara-on-the-Lake, Ontario Algoma, Ontario

Zoom down the bobsled track at WinSport Winter The Tunnels of Moose Jaw were first built as an At Inniskillin, a winery in the charming town of Ontario’s Algoma region is rich in natural beauty, art
Sport Institute at Canada Olympic Park, once home underground stream network. When they were Niagara-on-the-Lake, discover the difference and history. On an Agawa Canyon train tour, you will
to the 1988 Winter Olympics. Piloted by a trained abandoned, Chinese railroad workers started using between icewine-making and the winemaking wind alongside pristine northern lakes and rivers,
professional, you will zip down the 1,500-metre them to escape persecution. Then, in the 1920s, process of traditional table wines. During the and through the awesome granite rock formations
frozen waterslide track reaching speeds of 120 km/h they were used by American mobsters (including novel process of the former, grapes are harvested and thick forest that inspired the distinct painting
and feeling the bounce and tug of 4 gs of force. Hang Al Capone, as legend has it) for rum running during from trees only after the outdoor temperature has style of the famous Group of Seven artists. Follow
on! (winsport.ca) prohibition. Walk the tight quarters of the tunnels dropped below minus eight degrees. The result? A it up with a workshop at the Art Gallery of Algoma
and imagine you are escaping the law, just as so wine that is intense with a delicious, concentrated in Sault Ste. Marie and transfer that inspiration to
OH, SO SWEET many did a century ago. (tunnelsofmoosejaw.com) sweetness. (inniskillin.com) canvas. (agawatrain.com)
Rigaud, Quebec
FINDING YOUR FOOD AND EATING IT, TOO LOBSTER LIFESTYLE EXPERIENCE NOVELTY AT SEA
Travel back in time with a horse-drawn sleigh or Georgetown, Prince Edward Island Tusket Islands, Nova Scotia St. John’s, Newfoundland
wagon ride to the Sucrerie de la Montagne, a
traditional Quebec sugar shack in a maple forest. Just outside the historical port of Georgetown, be Off Nova Scotia’s southernmost tip are the Tusket An at-sea excursion off the coast of Newfoundland
Though open year round, in springtime the air is prepared for an authentic discovery with Tranquility Islands. Accessible only by boat, these islands have brings a unique sense of adventure. Hop aboard a
sweet with maple sap being boiled down to golden Cove Adventures Giant Bar Clam Dig. You will wade a rich history of fishing, smuggling, pirates and Gatherall’s Puffin & Whale watching tour and explore
nectar. Served by people in period costumes, you into waist-deep waters and dig for giant clams. shipwrecks. Also in the region are some of the best, Witless Bay Ecological Reserve. Here you can say
can savour homemade dishes, such as platters of While you explore the surrounding beach and visit most vibrant lobsters. Lead by two brothers on a hello to over 300,000 puffins, humpback and mink
Canadian back bacon, baked beans and tourtière P.E.I.’s oldest lighthouse, Panmure Island, a chef will family-built boat, you will learn how to trap lobsters whales, and maybe even a few icebergs (although
(meat pie with homemade pickles). Settle into a cosy be preparing the clams you found for a dinner on just like a real fisherman. Once on the island, enjoy they might not wave back!). For the triple threat
log cabin with your own fireplace to spend the night the beach. Your East Coast adventure wouldn’t be some traditional seafood chowder. Your experience experience, visit Newfoundland in May or June.
among the maples. (sucreriedelamontagne.com) complete without taking some time to learn about is complemented with live music and dancing on the (gatheralls.com)
other native sea creatures and to observe seals in boat on the way back. (tusketislandtours.com)
their natural habitat. (tcapei.com)

SPA CORNER
INDIA

A Gold Star PHOTOS BY SAMODE PALACE

The luxurious, golden Samode Palace near Jaipur offers soothing respite from a
hectic itinerary

By Beth Pollock

O ur trip to India had been everything I’d massage and an Urjyati deep tissue spa, because the call of the infinity pool on the
hoped for. But by the time my husband and massage. I was looking for rejuvenation, so I rooftop was too strong. Other than an attendant, I
I arrived at Samode Palace (samode.com/ chose the Abhyanga treatment. had the entire area to myself. Reclining on a daybed
samodepalace), just outside Jaipur, I was in a recessed room next to the pool, I couldn’t take
ready to take a break. Jaipur had been so full of Abhyanga is a traditional Indian massage and my eyes off the view of the hills of the Aravalli Range
wonderful sights, we’d barely stopped moving. And one I found utterly luxurious. My masseuse, beyond.
our bumpy drive to Samode Village was accompanied the lovely Rita Rai, “anointed” my body with
by India’s ever-present cacophony of car horns. warm, herb-infused oil. It was a perfect way to In the end, the massage was symbolic of our entire
melt away my aches and fatigue. An Abhyanga stay at Samode Palace. We arrived feeling tired
I knew we were somewhere special when we massage is meant to heal—not just body, but and left with bodies, minds and spirits restored.
approached the hotel and saw a massive staircase mind and spirit, too. The head massage at the From the spa to the pool, from the courtyards to the
leading to a towering golden palace. This 26-step end was blissful and nearly put me to sleep. restaurants, Samode Palace radiated welcome and
entrance was followed by another set of stairs that After a long day of travels, I left the spa feeling relaxation.
took us to the main courtyard, graced with pink and refreshed and ready to explore.
white bougainvillea, where we received a welcoming
tilaka on our foreheads from the greeter. On my way out, I noticed the flowers
immediately: instead of going into vases, they’d
This former Rajasthani palace was the perfect place been laid out in designs along the floor. A
to unwind. One of the first things I did was book a fresh floral mosaic wound toward the staircase
massage treatment in the spa. and into the lobby rimming the entire central
courtyard. It seemed impossible that the palace
On the way to my appointment, I saw staff members could be even more beautiful than when we
carrying piles of flowers in their arms. I assumed they arrived, but it was.
were filling vases in the central courtyard and decided
to check it out on my way back. The regal treatment didn’t end at the spa. Originally
built 475 years ago as a fort, the building was
At the bottom of the stairs, I reached a serene converted to a palace in the mid 1800s. Many of its
courtyard. If I’d turned right, I’d have chosen a imperial rooms are unchanged and can be visited by
lounger next to the swimming pool with a decorative taking a tour or by wandering. Durbar Hall, the royal
mosaic. Instead, I turned left and walked into the spa court, invited visions of ceremonial banquets, with
waiting area. I was greeted by a smiling masseuse its hand-painted walls, graceful arches and dazzling
and led into a graceful room lined with fresh white chandeliers. Sultan Mahal, a stunning alcove on
towels sprinkled with rose petals. the top floor, wouldn’t have been out of place in a
museum.
The Spa at Samode Palace offers a range of body
therapies, including a Patra Potli herbal poultice I never did visit that mosaic-bottomed pool by the

TRAVELLIFE SUMMER 2017 | 19

INSIDE CRUISING CrIuNisSiInDgE NathalieTanious, vice-president, FIT and Cruises
ON-BOARD ACTIVITIES for Travel Brands (parent company of Encore
Cruises), explains why cruise lines have upped
the ante when it comes to on-board activities.

Choosing a cruise ship these days can be tough. They

all offer pretty spectacular activities and entertainment.
You may still encounter traditional on-board activities on a
cruise line—croquet, anyone?—however cruise ships have
expanded way beyond simply adding a basketball court
to attract younger guests. People are so much more active
than they used to be, not to mention the way we travel has
evolved and changed. Cruise lines, therefore, realize that if
they want to capture a new clientele and appease an existing
fan base—and to keep them all coming back—they need
to make sure there is enough to keep guests of all ages
entertained and engaged.

From families with small children, right up to the zoomers, NORWEGIAN CRUISE LINE
here is a mere sampling of all the fabulous activities there
are to enjoy these days on a cruise ship. Many activities
are included in your ticket (check to see if they require
reservations), while others may require an extra fee.

Princess Cruises tailors its activities to the destination because
it believes “live performances, music and dance lessons,
local foods and more will give you a deeper connection
to the places you visit.” For example, you can learn to play
the ukulele in Hawaii or take street pan drum lessons in the
Caribbean.

If you’re a bit loathe to leave your fitness classes behind when ROYAL CARIBBEAN INTERNATIONAL
you travel, Celebrity Cruises offers Zumba classes; Disney
ships have state-of-the-art exercise clubs overlooking the ROYAL CARIBBEAN INTERNATIONAL
ocean with weight machines and ellipticals, and personal
training sessions; Costa Cruises has an outdoor jogging track; Breakaway and Breakaway Plus Class ships, with over 40
MSC Cruises offers hydro spinning classes—basically you ride
stationary bikes in a pool; and Royal Caribbean is introducing elements to manoeuvre. You can also walk The Plank or climb
SeaPlex, the largest indoor active space on its Quantum-class
ships, which features roller skating, basketball, bumper cars and rappel from the 20-foot rock-climbing wall. Carnival
and a circus school.
Cruise Lines has developed SkyRide, which allows you to bike
You can take your golf game off the boat. Holland America
offers shore excursions to play in selected ports, but it also around a ship through the air. Book a surfing lesson on Royal CARNIVAL CRUISE LINE
offers putting greens on the ms Prinsendam. If you want to
stay on the ship, MSC Cruises has a mini-golf course, as does Caribbean’s FlowRider, a 40-foot-long surf simulator. There is
Disney with a themed course that features Goofy and his son
Max. also a zip line and on Quantum ships, a skydiving simulator To book your next cruise
called RipCord by iFLY®.
Ice skating at sea might sound like an odd combination, but
you can glide around a rink and perfect your figure-eights on See? Cruise lines really have upped their game when it comes and pre or post tour, call
Royal Caribbean. Or, take the family to a bowling alley with to the activities they offer. Personally, I love anything that has a cruise professional at
funky lighting and neon bowling balls on Norwegian Cruise to do with cooking, I enjoy a good game of mini-golf, and, put
Line’s Norwegian Epic and Pearl ships. me in a bumper car and I’m like a kid in a candy shop! 1.855.297.4400

For those who can’t sit still and crave a little adrenalin hit,
Norwegian Cruise Line offers a ropes course on their





Top left and bottom right photos by Diane Slawych; Top right and bottom left photos by Martin Caird, Sandpiper Studios

TRAVELLIFE SUMMER 2017 | 23

THE FOODIE FILES

INTERESTING DELICACIES

BEETLE LARVAE Photo by Doug Wallace

Matters of Taste

When it comes to culinary customs, taste is relatively relative

By Doug Wallace

“It was around here somewhere that I ate bull’s testicles,” my friend The Chinese have their thousand-year eggs, preserved in clay, ash, salt
said as we wandered the streets of Jerusalem toward the old market. I and rice hulls for a month or more until they turn yellow and blue. The
couldn’t possibly judge: I have eaten my share of unusual things in my French have their sheep’s brains, the French Canadians their horse, the
day, starting at a very early age. Scottish their haggis. Eating dogs and cats was only recently outlawed in
Taiwan. Ireland’s Aer Lingus serves blood pudding with their breakfasts
My grandmother often had a pig’s head floating in a pail of water on the on morning business flights from Dublin to London. And on it goes.
back porch, in preparation for her homemade head cheese. This is not
an actual cheese, but a meat-in-jelly terrine made with the head of a How about rotten shark? Kaestur hakari is not actually rotten, but a cured
pig or calf. And today, after having sampled the wildly differing culinary shark dish in Iceland and Greenland. The fermentation process renders it
offerings from other countries with vigour, I can truly say that one the smelliest thing on earth. Celebrity chef Anthony Bourdain thought it
culture’s delicacy is another one’s “ew.” was totally vile—and he can stomach anything.

TRAVELLIFE.CA SUMMER 2017 | 24

Photo by Doug WallaceI’m merely scratching the surface here.

Deep-fried guinea pig legs and barbecued
beetle larvae are just two of the things I ate
recently on a G Adventures tour through
Ecuador I took earlier this year.

Guinea pig is considered a delicacy, and I
found it at the top of the menu at one of
Quito’s best restaurants. Really, it tasted like
chicken; crispy and deep fried, salty and
satisfying. I washed it down with lashings of
red wine, which is my approach to eating
anything that could present a challenge.
(This always works.)

A THOUSAND-YEAR EGG

CHICHA Later in the week, I had a mind-blowingly good lunch in the
Amazon jungle during a visit to a Quechua village. There was yuca
At last year’s reThink Food conference in St. for starch, plus plantain, fresh catfish and palm hearts, as well as
Helena, California, researchers pondered chontacuro, a beetle larva, which tasted just like pork. It was all
the problem of what to do when sustaining cooked over a wood fire and presented in a community kitchen
the red meat supply in the world becomes along with chicha—a milky corn beer—which made me a little
impossible. The talks were of snails and woozy.
crickets, maggots and bugs—all smaller We smiled and patted our stomachs, and wondered what our hosts
and much easier to maintain. Crunchy, too. would think of some of our “normal” North American food. I’m
sure these community cooks would turn their noses up at the very
So whenever I find myself tempted to thought of mayonnaise or pizza pops or all the mass-produced and
judge another culture by what they’re meaty things we eat too much of.
putting in their stomachs, I think back to
my grandmother’s head cheese and how I, TRAVELLIFE SUMMER 2017 | 25
too, was born into a society that can think
outside the taste-bud box.

More ants in your soup, anyone?

HAGGIS

THE FOODIE FILES “Summertime and the livin’is easy…” The halcyon Lounge extends to the outdoor terrace in the summer months,
INTERNATIONAL PATIOS days of the warmest months of the year are always a perfect perch to spot birds and the well-known Banff Squirrel.
welcome, because it means one can spend time Kick off happy hour with a choice from the extensive wine list,
PRIMO outside. When the temperatures soar and the sun divided by mood, such as enchanting, elegant, alluring, bold
PATIOS shines, head to your favourite patio to choose a or sweet.
chilled libation with an unbeatable view. Here are fairmont.com/lake-louise/
Discover cocktail hotspots around the world five bucket list places for a memorable cocktail.
LE CHALET DE LA FORÊT, BRUSSELS, BELGIUM
BY WAHEEDA HARRIS COMMANDER’S PALACE, NEW ORLEANS Located on the edge of the city’s urban forest, this two-star
Co-proprietors Ti Adelaide Martin and Lally Brennan are well- Michelin restaurant is focused on seasonal ingredients and the
known as the Cocktail Chicks for their hospitable and stylish inventive creations chef Pascal Devalkaneer makes with his
way of combining quintessential Nola cuisine within this historic team. With an extensive English-style garden bordered by fruit
setting in the Garden District. Guests can defer to the house trees, once the temperatures edge over 20°C in Brussels, guests
favourite: the Tequila Mockingbird II: tequila, limoncello and can dine on the loose stone patio with a perfectly chilled glass
house bitters, best enjoyed within the lively surrounds of the of rosé, peeking at the vegetables, fruits or herbs that may make
lush inner courtyard, with the classic sounds of jazz entertaining their way from garden to table.
patrons every evening. lechaletdelaforet.be/en/
commanderspalace.com
SUNSET BAR AT NOVOTEL INLE MYAT MIN HOTEL, INLE LAKE,
FOXGLOVE BAR & KITCHEN, WELLINGTON, NEW ZEALAND MYANMAR
Overlook the city’s harbourfront while sitting among the young The aptly named bar overlooking the second largest lake of this
and beautiful of the windy capital city of the north island. southeast Asian country offers a relaxing place to end a day of
This trendy waterfront restaurant’s outdoor space includes a exploring the popular vacation area. Influenced by the country’s
laid-back covered patio and oversized loungers that can be easily past as a British colony, chilled gin-based cocktails are the
shared with friends or a special someone. A crisp craft beer or a preference while sitting on the lakeside outdoor terrace as the
selection from the extensive whisky collection are the preferred sun slowly disappears below the horizon, and the night sky
post-work libations, while patrons can enjoy people-watching offers an unforgettable view of the stars.
and the nightly sunset. novotel.com
foxglovebar.co.nz

FAIRMONT CHATEAU LAKE LOUISE, LAKE LOUISE
Famous for being one of the classic accommodation
choices of the Rocky Mountains, this grand dame of the
Alberta wilderness can boast about its iconic view of the
famous lake and the Victoria Glacier. The popular Lakeview

TRAVELLIFE.CA SUMMER 2017 | 26

TRAVELLIFE SUMMER 2017 | 27

ASK THE CONCIERGE PHOTO COURTESY OF ANDAZ
MARYNA MYROSHNYKOVA
PHOTO COURTESY OF ANDAZ PHOTO COURTESY OF OTTAWA TOURISM
Meet Maryna
Myroshnykova Maryna’s Ottawa favourites
of Andaz Ottawa
Byward Market The best coffee
Planet Coffee (24 York St.) in the Byward Market.
BY CHRIS RYALL The best place to cosy up for a drink
The Moonroom (442 Preston St.), an intimate, hidden gem known by
Ottawa is rolling out the the locals.
“welcome” mat to Canadians Best Ottawa view
and the world this year for Copper Spirits and Sights (16th floor, Andaz Ottawa Byward Market):
sesquicentennial celebrations. Sip on a specialty cocktail while enjoying scenic views of Parliament
Who better to ask where Hill, Ottawa’s skyline and Gatineau Hills. “Best view in Ottawa without a
to dine, shop and discover doubt.”
things to do than concierge Best places for a stroll/bike ride
Maryna Myroshnykova from Along the Rideau Canal, behind Parliament Hill (any direction by the
Andaz Ottawa Byward Market Ottawa River) and the Gatineau Hills.
(ottawa.andaz.hyatt.com). Best spa
This 200-room urban Ottawa Nordik Spa Nature (in Chelsea, Quebec, a 15-minute drive from
hotel opened in August 2016 downtown Ottawa).
and is located in the famous Best live music venue
Byward Market. It is the first Mercury Lounge opened its doors in Ottawa in 1996. “Every week they
Andaz property in Canada, and have international bookings for classic rock, jazz, Latin music, local hip
celebrates Canadian design and décor, with each floor reflecting hop artists and cooking shows.”
the character of a Canadian province or territory.

Meeting guests and assisting them comes naturally for
Myroshnykova, who has been a host at Andaz Ottawa Byward
Market since it opened. She receives common requests, such as
toothbrushes and toothpaste—the most common items that
guests forget to bring, but gets unusual requests, too. One guest
asked if it would be okay to bring their pet dove to stay in their
hotel room.

“Getting to know the guest to make their stay more personal,”
is why she really loves being a host. Here, Myroshnykova shares
her wealth of knowledge about Ottawa—her favourite spots to
dine, shop and tour—so visitors can get the most out of their
stay.

PHOTO BY ERIC VANCE COPPER SPIRITS AND SIGHTS

TRAVELLIFE.CA SUMMER 2017 | 28

Where to eat

Where to get romantic in Ottawa

For couples looking to turn on the romance while dining, Myroshnykova

recommends a few Ottawa hotspots:  
• Vittoria Trattoria (35 William St.): “I would definitely recommend
Vittoria Trattoria in the Byward Market. It’s a classy, intimate

environment with delicious Italian cuisine.”
• Town (296 Elgin St.): “It’s a small space with an excellent choice

of wine and cocktails, and the food is really great with a choice of

shareable plates. It is a very warm and friendly environment.”
• Trio Bistro and Lounge (307D Richmond Rd.) and The Moonroom

(442 Preston St.): “Very intimate atmosphere, great music, creative
food menu and perfect cocktails.”

Best family-friendly restaurant
Myroshnykova recommends The Grand Pizzeria
& Bar (74 George St.) in the Byward Market,
which features a family-style atmosphere and
a kids’ menu. It’s also home to Ottawa’s biggest
outdoor patio.

For Canadiana dining Myroshnykova is partial
to her own hotel’s restaurant, feast + revel.
“The Andaz is very proud of their Canadian
cuisine with locally sourced food and beverages
as well as local décor.”

PHOTO COURTESY OF OTTAWA TOURISM Where to shop
PHOTO COURTESY OF OTTAWA TOURISM
Magpie Jewellery (three Ottawa locations)
“I would head to Magpie and get a Lissa Bowie
heart/Ottawa-shaped necklace. We all wear them
here at Andaz.”  
Stunning! (6 York St.)
“Gorgeous and rare fashion accessories for
women of all age groups and styles. The owner,
Mandy, is very well-travelled and has great taste
for every occasion.”

Where to celebrate Canada’s birthday

There are numerous 150th birthday celebrations and special
events taking place in Ottawa throughout 2017. For a full
list of events visit the Ottawa Tourism website
(ottawatourism.ca) or ottawa2017.ca. Myroshnykova
recommends these special events:

Sky Lounge 2017 (July 7 to 22, City Hall): Dine and feast on
specially prepared Canadian cuisine 150 feet in the air, while
enjoying beautiful views of the nation’s capital.   

Inspiration Village (May 20 to Sept. 4, York St.): Built out
of sea containers a “village” will come alive in the heart of
Byward Market featuring a variety of special art, cultural
and entertainment installations, exhibits, and performances
throughout the summer.

TRAVELLIFE SUMMER 2017 | 29

PAY IT FORWARD
BVaocluknytaorudrismCANADA
Stay in Canada to lend a
helping hand while on vacation

By Jessica Padykula

When it comes to volunteering, much WWOOFers have the opportunity to
of what we hear and read pertains to live with host families in the province of
travelling overseas, but going abroad their choice, while experiencing what
isn’t the only option when it comes life is like living off the land and learning
to putting your time and skills to use. to grow organic food in a sustainable
Volunteering in Canada is a great way to way. They can then take that knowledge
experience more of the country, while and put it into practice as soon as they
also learning new skills or building on get home, for example, by composting
those you already have. food waste to feed to their own organic
garden or getting involved in organic
One way to do this is with WWOOF community gardens, explains Young.
(World Wide Opportunities on Organic
Farms or Willing Workers on Organic So where in Canada can you volunteer
Farms). Founded in 1971, WWOOF is with WWOOF? The organization currently
one of the world’s first voluntourism works with over 800 organic farms
and ecotourism organizations. There and gardens (not necessarily certified
are WWOOF opportunities all over the organic) across the country, including
world, but it is possible to stay closer to the Yukon and Northwest Territories.
home. Becky Young, executive director “Travelling across Canada can still be
of WWOOF Canada, explains that a foreign experience, with individual
approximately one third of WWOOFers pockets of unique cultures found all
(volunteers) in Canada are Canadians. across [the country], where you can
It’s a good number, but one they would meet unique and interesting Canadians,”
like to increase, she says. “WWOOF has says Young. “Come to know your own
grown simply by word of mouth and country and fellow Canadians better,
welcomes organic farmers and gardeners making friends for life.” WWOOF is
interested in welcoming WWOOFers into open to anyone 19 years of age or older,
their homes and lives, and sharing their regardless of experience. Go to wwoof.ca
knowledge of sustainable agriculture.” for more information.

TRAVELLIFE.CA SUMMER 2017 | 30 Photos by WWOOF Canada



CITY ESCAPES Most visitors to New York City rarely venture
NEW YORK CITY beyond the neighbourhoods of Manhattan.
Indeed, there is much to see. But have you ever
SMTEAPNAWHAAYTFTRAONM thought about the other boroughs? Anyone
who takes the time to explore New York’s outer
Explore the other boroughs of New York City on your next visit boroughs—Queens, Brooklyn and Staten
Island—will be amazed to discover vibrant
BY PARM PARMAR communities and a totally different side of
New York City.

Staten Island FerrySTATEN ISLAND
© NYC & Co/Marley White
© NYC & Co/Phil Kline
Long-forgotten Staten Island, home to historic landmarks, beaches and fabulous
eateries, is now blossoming with major new developments. Empire Outlets Snug Harbor Cultural Center, Staten Island
(empireoutletsnyc.com) is a shopping complex slated to open in 2018 that’s
complete with upscale food halls, a luxury hotel and the New York Wheel, which PHOTO BY BONNIE MUNDAY
is comparable to the London Eye.

This is New York’s southern-most borough, accessible by three bridges or on foot
via the Staten Island Ferry, a free service running 24/7 from Manhattan. As an
added bonus, the ferry affords you the perfect spot to snap a few photos of the
Manhattan skyline and the Statue of Liberty.

Stay: Luxury hotel choices won’t be available for bookings until 2018. Keep an eye out
for the newest Hilton Garden Inn (hilton.com), which is your best option to stay local.

Eat: Enjoy an Italian lunch at Enoteca Maria (enotecamaria.com), a restaurant run
by a group of Italian nonnas. Cool off with Ralph’s Italian Ices & Ice Cream (ralphsices.
com), which has been around for over a century. For an upscale seafood dinner, try Blue
Restaurant (bluerestaurantnyc.com), near the Snug Harbor Cultural Center. Snag a seat
on the outdoor patio to sip and eat while observing nautical traffic on the Hudson.

Play: History buffs will love exploring colonial life in Historic Richmond Town
(historicrichmondtown.org) and the 83-acre Snug Harbor Cultural Center & Botanical
Garden (snug-harbor.org), a tribute to local maritime heritage. Don’t forget to take in
the Chinese Scholar’s Garden and Victorian houses lined with cobblestoned streets. Just
off the ferry, the Staten Island 911 Memorial is a must-visit along with the 100-year-old
Borough Hall (statenislandusa.com/borough-hall.html), with its murals showcasing
local history.

TRAVELLIFE.CA SUMMER 2017 | 32

BROOKLYN

© NYC & Co/Marley White
© NYC & Co/Julienne Schaer
Vibrant Brooklyn, over the last few years, has really come into its own. With
a plethora of chic hotels and neighbourhoods buzzing with art galleries and
trendy restaurants, there’s never a shortage of things to see and do. And let’s
not forget the iconic Brooklyn Bridge, an engineering marvel unto itself that is
definitely worth exploring.

Stay: Wythe Hotel (wythehotel.com) in Williamsburg offers 70 rooms in a converted
industrial-chic 1901 factory building, finished with locally made furniture and all the
creature comforts.

Eat: Visit Ides Bar on the sixth floor of the Wythe Hotel (wythehotel.com/the-ides) for
a well-crafted Lola Montez cocktail served with a view of the Manhattan skyline. Grab
a pizza at hipster-chic Roberta’s (robertaspizza.com) in Bushwick, voted one of New
York’s best pizza joints. And settle in for a barbecue dinner at Fette Sau in Williamsburg.

Play: Brooklyn Botanic Garden (bbg.org) is an oasis of specialty gardens worth visiting,
and the Brooklyn Museum (brooklynmuseum.org) features art ranging from ancient
Egyptian artefacts to contemporary works.

Shop: Brooklyn is dotted with independent boutiques featuring quality vintage finds.
Indulge in delicious chocolates at Mast Brothers Chocolate (mastbrothers.com) and
artisan wares at In God We Trust (ingodwetrustnyc.com), where everything is designed
and handmade in New York.

Roberta’s, Bushwick, Brooklyn

A boutique in Brooklyn

LONG ISLAND CITY, QUEENS

© NYC & Co/Marley White Long Island City was formerly an industrial area filled with
warehouses and factories. Today, it’s recognized as a trendy
neighbourhood, bursting with new residential development,
cultural institutions, museums and chic restaurants.

Stay: The 100-room Z NYC Hotel (zhotelny.com) is your best bet,
with breathtaking views of the Gotham skyline, as well as luxury
rooms with feather beds, a rooftop bar and a spa providing stellar
services.

Eat: Enjoy fine gastropub dining at Dutch Kills Centraal
(dutchkillscentraal.com), which still maintains its original bar and
floor tiles dating back to the 1940s. Enjoy a Pan-Asian meal at Shi
(eatdrinkshi.com) in a hip, modern environment.

Play: Art lovers rejoice—this neighbourhood is home to the
Isamu Noguchi Museum (noguchi.org), the Socrates Sculpture Park
(socratessculpturepark.org) and the PS1 (momaps1.org), an outpost
of Manhattan’s MoMA.

Dutch Kills Centraal, Long Island

TRAVELLIFE SUMMER 2017 | 33

ROAD TRIPS
CALIFORNIA

Sun, Sand and VISITPALMSPRINGS.COM
Compromise

A family road trip through California satisfies different family
members’ requests to visit both desert and coastline

By Diana Ballon Joshua Tree National Park

I find a sense of calm in or near water. My husband prefers Joshua Tree National Park
long expanses of sand and dry heat. This year, for our
family vacation, we chose California—a destination that About an hour’s drive from Palm Springs, this park, immortalized by the band
combines both. We would travel inland to the desert—to U2 in 1986, is stark, dramatic and impressive. Covering 792,726 acres, it consists
Palm Springs and Joshua Tree—and then travel to the of two desert systems, the Mojave in the eastern half and the Colorado in the
Central Coast, stopping in Santa Barbara and the quaint western half, each of them very different both in appearance and elevation.
towns of San Luis Obispo County and wine country along The Colorado, a sub-section of the Sonoran, is considered “low desert.” At about
the way. 3,000 feet, it tends to be both hotter and seems starker because of its more
low-lying shrubs and bushes—and with the Coxcomb Mountains far in the
In 10 days, we discovered many great family attractions, distance. By contrast, the “high desert” of the Mojave is at an elevation above
but here are five highlights. The ones on the Central Coast 3,000 feet, and is wetter with more dramatic vegetation. Here you will find the
gave us the thrill of a bird’s eye view—whether ziplining quirky branching yuccas of the Joshua tree and the massive boulders and rock
over vineyards; gazing out at the town of Santa Barbara piles that make it a rock climbing paradise.
through a telescope on a museum rooftop garden; or
traversing along steep cliffs on a rotating aerial tramway. You can access the park through entrances in the towns of Joshua Tree and
By contrast, our time in the desert had us hiking along Twentynine Palms, or at Cottonwood Spring. Once in the park, you can stop at
sandy paths and exploring the stillness and beauty of the pullouts along the road to take photos and explore by hiking dusty trails
Joshua tree and of flowering cacti. on foot.

nps.gov/jotr/index.htm

PHOTO BY MOXI MOXI

MOXI Santa Barbara’s MOXI, The Wolf Museum of Exploration + Innovation, which
opened in February after more than 25 years of planning, has been well worth
TRAVELLIFE.CA SUMMER 2017 | 34 the wait. Our kids loved this place—but so did we—and by all impressions, so
did the enthusiastic young “sparks” (or docents) who work here.

The museum’s interactive exhibits and experiences are grouped into seven
main topics called Tracks. Some standouts? We donned safety glasses and
gloves in their Innovation Workshop on the main floor and poured liquid tin
into moulds to make coins. We stepped inside a giant guitar to see how sound
was amplified in different parts of the instrument when its strings were plucked.
We made cars to race in the pinewood derby on the second floor. And we
peered out at the city through five scopes, including a telescope, a
kaleidoscope and a periscope, from the rooftop Lookout Tower.

Even the space—a three-storey building on the edge of Santa Barbara’s Funk
Zone, is stylish—with its whitewashed walls and red tiles reflective of Spanish-
style architecture, along with its open galleries and turrets.

moxi.org

Ziplining in San Luis Obispo County PHOTO BY DIANA BALLON

I don’t think there’s a better way to enjoy the beauty of San Luis Suspension bridge VISITPALMSPRINGS.COM
Obispo County—the land of rolling foothills, oak trees and Aerial Tramway
vineyards—than through an aerial view via a zipline. VISITPALMSPRINGS.COM
The Living Desert
With Santa Margarita Adventures, we boarded a bus for a 15-minute
guided tour through their cattle ranch, past black-tailed deer and an
oak savannah teeming with songbirds. Then we donned helmets,
gloves and harnesses and got into a Hummer to travel the last few
minutes up a mountain. That’s when the real adrenaline rush began.
The first of six ziplines had us travelling up to 40 miles per hour for a
full half mile. On others, we sailed over canopies of black and white
oak trees and past fields of Pinot Noir vines. In between, we crossed
a suspension footbridge, and took a short hike up a hill for some
beautiful green vistas and a view of the Santa Lucia mountains.

margarita-adventures.com

Palm Springs Aerial Tramway

The world’s largest rotating tramway, this tramcar travels—in a short
11 minutes—from 2,643 feet at the Valley Station to 8,516 feet to
San Jacinto State Park at the top, as it traverses the cliffs of Chino
Canyon. At the top, you’ll find the air about 30 to 40 degrees cooler.
For us, with temperatures in Palm Springs at close to 100 degrees,
we welcomed the cool air, but were surprised to discover snow
underfoot.

Plan to spend several hours here. There are more than 50 miles of
hiking trails to traverse, two restaurants (one for fine dining and
one that’s cafeteria-style), observation decks, a small natural history
museum and two theatres that display the state park and tram
construction.

pstramway.com

The Living Desert and Gardens

This desert zoo and gardens, about a half-hour drive outside of
Palm Springs, will have you travelling by foot or shuttle from North
America to Africa to Eagle Canyon. Choose from a range of activities
while you’re there. You can stop to feed giraffes, watch cheetahs
loping through fields after raw meatballs, and, if you’re lucky,
observe medical procedures at the wildlife hospital. You can also
check out the impressive G-model train, let the kids ride a carousel
and view the wide array of cacti and other flowering desert plants
able to survive the desert’s harsh conditions.

Plan to spend a few hours, and check the schedule of daily activities,
which includes frequent keeper “chats” or informal talks about the
various animals, scheduled feedings and an animal wildlife show at
the amphitheatre. And don’t worry about getting lost. The place is
well-staffed with informative volunteers who are there to help.

livingdesert.org

TRAVELLIFE.CA SUMMER 2017 | 36

DISCOVERIES
VIETNAM

The Paris

of the East
Hanoi’s French influence blends in with
the rest of the city’s bustling culture

Words and photos by Diane Slawych

O n one of Hanoi’s main thoroughfares, a group of
friendly-looking Vietnamese youths are holding up a
sign that grabs my attention: “Ask me anything,” it reads.
I had been circling the neighbourhood searching for
the Weekend Night Market and I find their presence a
welcome sight.

Eager to help, they cheerfully point me in the

direction of Hang Dao Street, but not before answering a

long list of other questions from where to get a quick bite to eat, to what time the water puppet

show takes place, all of which they answered capably and in perfect English. Then they

had questions for me. Where was I from and how did I manage to get around on my own in

countries where I didn’t speak the language? “I ask people like you,” I replied simply.

Minutes later, I’m haggling at a brightly lit stall selling beautiful purses embroidered
with flowers. In between fruit vendors attired in their conical hats and shops piled high with
neon-coloured pollution masks (the air quality can be stifling at times), I find racks of elephant
pants—loose, cotton garments imprinted with images of the pachyderm that so many tourists
seemed to be wearing.

I was in Hanoi on the final stop of a 15-day Viking River Cruise along the Mekong
River. Our introduction to the city began with an electric car ride through the Old Quarter with
its narrow alleys, tall slender buildings known as tube houses and tiny shops crammed with
every type of merchandise imaginable. At outdoor eateries, adults sat in kid-sized plastic
chairs while motorbikes zipped in and out of traffic. The bustling scene was a shock to the
senses after days on the tranquil Mekong.

TRAVELLIFE SUMMER 2017 | 37

DISCOVERIES A walkable city, Hanoi is best
VIETNAM enjoyed out of doors, where
citizens engage in a myriad of
In contrast to the chaos of the “36 old streets” as the Old diversions.
Quarter is sometimes called, the Temple of Literature seemed a
place of quiet contemplation. We wandered through the manicured At one point, a vendor, who couldn’t entice me to purchase
courtyards of this centre for higher learning that was established in the pineapples and bananas she was selling, offered instead to let me
1070 in honor of the Chinese philosopher Confucius. try carrying her shoulder pole, from which were suspended two large
baskets of fruit. “Sure, I’d love to try it,” I said enthusiastically. Seconds
Over the next two days, we joined a line at the Ho Chi later, I nearly crumpled under its weight. She smiled knowingly, while
Minh mausoleum, which honours the father of modern-day Vietnam, I gained a new appreciation for the strength and agility with which she
then followed the crowds to see the revered leader’s modest house manoeuvered through the city’s busy streets.
built on stilts; we climbed inside replicas of traditional houses at the
Museum of Ethnology, which showcases the culture of the country’s 54 Nothing in Hanoi dazzled me more than the sight of Hoan
recognized ethnic groups; and in a more somber experience, visited Kiem Lake. When I arrived at dusk, I was stunned to find beautiful
the Hoa Lo Prison Museum, which, during the Vietnam War, was a multi-coloured lights, some forming the shapes of giant flowers,
notorious jail for American POWs. illuminating the path around this small body of water. It seemed at
once festive and romantic, elegant and magical.
Inside the “Hanoi Hilton,” as prisoners jokingly called it, we
found, amongst other things, a few artefacts that belonged to the most On an islet in the lake is a small pagoda commemorating
famous detainee, John McCain (now a U.S. senator), who was held a supernatural event, while at the northern end is the revered Jade
and tortured here for five and a half years after his war plane was shot Mountain Temple accessed via the red, wooden Sunbeam Bridge.
down and crashed into Hanoi Lake in 1967.
I returned to the lake many times during my stay and found
As our bus took us from one site to another, I was often it was equally pleasurable during the day. I came here to rest my feet
struck by the beauty of Hanoi and when our tour ended, I stayed on an after hours of exploring the sites from the Bac Ma Temple—the oldest
extra five days to explore on my own. building in the Old Quarter—to the neo-Gothic St. Joseph’s Cathedral,
and a long wall of impressive murals and mosaics on a roadway into
I could see why the former capital of French Indochina town.
was sometimes called the Paris of the East. It retained many fine
colonial structures, including the Opera House, modelled on the Palais On my last day, I ventured to the expat neighbourhood
Garnier (Paris opera house) designed by Charles Garnier, as well as of West Lake, which is loaded with charm. The Tran Guoc Pagoda,
government buildings with wrought ironwork and more architectural one of the oldest Buddhist temples in Vietnam, is located here and
marvels and wide leafy boulevards in the former French Quarter. further along the route are beautiful parks and gardens. After a week
of exploring the city, I still hadn’t seen it all, but before departing for
The Sofitel Legend Metropole Hanoi, with its Art Nouveau the airport, I made one last stop—to the Summit Lounge of the Hotel
details, is another gem. The hotel’s fascinating history is documented Sofitel Plaza Hanoi, where I enjoyed a sweeping view of the city at
in a small exhibit inside that includes a long list of celebrities who’ve night. Seeing Hanoi from this vantage point seemed an ideal way to
stayed here over the years, from Charlie Chaplin to Michael Caine. end what had been a memorable trip.
Guests, meanwhile, can join a tour of the hotel’s bomb shelter, where
American folk singer Joan Baez hunkered down briefly during the 1 The iconic Sofitel Legend Metropole
height of the Vietnam War. Hotel, where celebrities and heads of
state often stay when they visit Hanoi.
A walkable city, Hanoi is best enjoyed out of doors, where
citizens engage in a myriad of diversions. Near the hotel, I witnessed 2 Old City Gate.
what seemed to be a late-afternoon ritual when locals would set up
nets across the wide sidewalks for impromptu badminton games. 3 One of the many colonial-era buildings.
Newlyweds in bridal attire, accompanied by a cameraman, were a
common site, while in one square beneath the statue of Emperor Ly
Thai To, the city’s founder, residents of all ages gathered to watch a
modern dance performance.

TRAVELLIFE.CA SUMMER 2017 | 38

1

2

TRAVELLIFE SUMMER 2017 | 39

3

DISCOVERIES At only 9:30 a.m., it’s already hinting at a hot
FRANCE June day in posh Saint-Rémy-de-Provence,
as the Wednesday market gets underway. It’s
Vive the Renting a villa presents the a good thing my husband, Jules, and I have
Villa perfect accommodation for a already breakfasted on coffee and croissants
multi-generational, memory- at a pâtisserie around the corner, or we’d be
making trip in Saint-Rémy-de- tempted to taste everything on offer as we
Provence stroll slowly past the friendly vendors and their
fabulous offerings.
BY BONNIE MUNDAY
We’re here in Provence, France, on a family
trip to celebrate my parents’ 75th anniversary.
Our rented villa is just a five-minute drive from
Saint Rémy, with its narrow, cobblestoned
streets, beautiful boutiques, airy cafés and
pretty fountains. No wonder Princess Caroline
of Monaco lived in Saint Rémy for several years
and Vincent van Gogh painted his famous
“The Starry Night” here.

TRAVELLIFE.CA SUMMER 2017 | 40 PHOTO BY BONNIE MUNDAY

DISCOVERIES
FRANCE

good I’m not surprised to learn that in France,
sales of rosés have surpassed sales of white wines.

Various combinations of family members also go
on day trips, including to the Camargue and the
hilltop town of Les Baux, with its spectacular views
of rolling vineyards. The latter is about 30 minutes
from Saint Rémy in the Alpilles mountains. Built as
a medieval stronghold around the 12th century,
it’s been named one of the most beautiful villages
in France. The children all love exploring the
crumbling Les Baux-de-Provence fortress (and
are treated to bonbons from one of the charming
shops, too).

The Wednesday market in Saint Rémy is known as one of the best in the Another must-see: the Roman ruins of Glanum,
region, a must-go if you’re looking to stock up on regional treats, such as just one kilometre from Saint Rémy. Complete
cheese, bread, fish, olive oil, preserves, charcuterie, fruit—you name it—from with aqueduct, temples and a forum, it was built not long after Julius Caesar
local producers. It’s our turn to cook tonight for the family, so Jules and I are captured Marseilles in southern France in 49 BC. Glanum was abandoned
here to buy the ingredients. We pick out fresh fish, new potatoes, asparagus, when the Roman Empire fell in the third century AD.
salad greens, local olives, dried sausage and three cheeses (including the
region’s famous banon, a goat’s cheese wrapped in chestnut leaves). After that Wednesday market morning in Saint-Rémy-de-Provence, Jules and
I later discover my parents and my sister’s family had headed there, as well.
Then we spot an olive oil vendor offering tastings. “C’est de ma ferme,” the Somehow, we hadn’t run into each other. We only find out when my mom
older man wearing, yes, a beret says proudly. We taste a few and decide on a and I meet poolside for a glass of wine, laughing when we see we’re each
bottle of cold-pressed, certified Provençal oil for the villa—and one for us to wearing a new sundress—bought that same day from the same boutique!
bring home. Hers is blue, mine is red.

My siblings and I had wanted to organize something special as a family for Going to France with an extended family group was the trip of a lifetime. I
our parents, and my mother had always wanted to visit Provence. My sister, can’t imagine a better way to enjoy it than renting a holiday villa together—
Susan, and I found a villa that ticked all our boxes: it could accommodate an especially in a region of France that deserves its reputation for natural beauty,
extended family group of 11 adults and seven kids; it had a swimming pool; historic towns, laid-back lifestyle and, as so many people would agree, the
and it was walking—or cycling—distance to a village. (Not only did we want best food in the world.
to stroll or bike for our daily baguettes, what’s better than being able to sip a
glass of wine or two over a lingering lunch in a café without having to worry
about driving back?) The villa was just a 15-minute bike ride from the village
of Eygalières—home to Chappelle Saint-Sixte, a 12th century chapel made
famous by van Gogh, who painted it in 1890.

The villa is breathtaking. There’s a main building with five bedrooms and
three bathrooms, plus two additional, stone-turreted buildings, each with
a couple of bedrooms and a bathroom to accommodate a family of three
or four. The expansive grounds, full of June blooms, are like something out
of an impressionist painting. This is entirely fitting, given that the beauty
of Provence has often been depicted by artists, including Cézanne, Renoir,
Matisse and many others. The property features statuary, an area to play
boules and countless rows of fragrant lavender just coming into bloom. And
the pool! Needless to say, it becomes the focal point for us all when we need
respite from the desert-dry heat.

The family also makes the most of the patio’s large stone barbecue for al
fresco dinners. Some mornings, a few of us bicycle to the corner

boulangerie for breakfast coffees and pain au chocolat. Other days, we
venture out to a winery. My husband and I manage to grab a romantic lunch
one day at a pretty café on Eygalières’ main street that features simple dishes
with deliciously Provençal accents, such as a warm goat’s cheese salad with
olives and fresh herbs. One evening, we go en masse to the village’s Brasserie
du Progrès, which serves up French classics: prix fixe meals that even the
kids love (I choose velouté au légumes, steak frites and crème brûlée—how
French is it that?). We also enjoy beautiful Provençal wines, which are so

PHOTOS: TOP BY KATHLEEN SCUBY; BOTTOM BY BONNIE MUNDAY

TRAVELLIFE.CA SUMMER 2017 | 42

Epic Adventures

Some choose a travel destination to relax, while
others find it relaxing to hike, bike, kayak or hop
on a horse to explore different parts of the world.

These travellers are packing helmets, hikers
and insect repellent instead of flip flops and
sundresses. We’ve gathered a few epic adventure
tales with varying levels of ruggedness, from
two-wheeled adventures through European
countryside to horseback riding in the Rockies
and trekking through the jungle in Guyana.

TRAVELLIFE SUMMER 2017 | 43

PHOTO BY ROBERT POSTMA EPIC ADVENTURES
CHURCHILL, MAN.
NO AVERAGE
BEAR WALKING AMONG POLAR BEARS WITH
NANUK POLAR BEAR LODGE IS A
BOYHOOD DREAM COME TRUE
BY DOUG O’NEILL

TRAVELLIFE.CA SUMMER 2017 | 44

I’m rooted to the ground, staring across a baseball diamond by a grizzly. interested.” I turn back to the fence
straight into the coal-black eyes of a (For the record, I hated team sports as and am met with the backside of a
500-pound polar bear, separated by a child.) disinterested bear ambling away in
a protective buffalo fence. I’m safely the opposite direction.
inside the compound at the fly-in A dream therapist once told me that
Nanuk Polar Bear Lodge on the shores the appearance of a hibernating or The ego-bruising moment does not,
of Hudson Bay, about 250 kilometres sleeping bear in your dreams is a of course, detract from the dreamy
southeast of Churchill, Manitoba. The sign that you need to do more soul nature of my four-day polar bear
irony of the moment does not escape searching before sharing a big idea with experience at Nanuk Lodge, operated
me—it’s the wild creature who is on the world. If you dream about being by Churchill Wild. After all, while I may
the outside looking in at me, confined chased by a bear, on the other hand, not have spooned with a polar bear
inside the enclosure. it’s likely that you’re avoiding a big during an afternoon nap, I did some-
issue in your life and it’s time to face it. thing even more amazing after my
There’s little sound except the sub- fence encounter: I got to go polar bear
Arctic wind and the occasional grunting My inner romantic wants to drape the trekking on foot, with no protective
of the beautiful white Ursus maritimus, fence encounter in some kind of special barrier between human and beast.
as she intermittently sniffs the air before meaning. What does the heavy eye
turning her gaze back to me. I’m unable contact mean? What does the big white Exploring the North on foot
to budge, and it’s obvious she’s not creature detect when she sniffs my
going anywhere for the moment, either. scent in the Arctic breeze? Ground-level Arctic safaris have been
the wilderness trump card for Churchill
This is not so much a standoff in the I turn to our bear guide, Albert Wild for 20-plus years. (The outdoor
wild, in which man is pitted against Saunders, as he sidles up to the fence adventure company owns Nanuk
beast, as much as it is a grown- next to me. Albert, a Cree who was born Lodge and four other luxury eco
man-realizing-a-boyhood -dream. at nearby York Factory First Nation, has lodges in the far north.) Known as
been bear guiding for about 25 years. “walking safaris,” these on-the-ground
I’ve long dreamt about bears. As a What does he think about my seem- wildlife adventures run from July to
young boy, I had two recurring dreams ingly intimate moment with the bear? November. For visitors planning on a
about the world’s largest land predators. summer experience, there are various
In one (which elicited howls of family “Nah, she just sees you as a potential options at Nanuk Polar Bear Lodge
laughter when recounted at the break- food source,” says Albert, looking me during the month of August. I chose
fast table), I am snuggled up against a up and down. (I was a chunk lighter at the “Hudson Bay Odyssey” because it
sleeping, big white polar bear, comfy as the time.) “Not enough meat on your promised the opportunity to see mama
you please. In another, I’m being chased bones. She’s probably not all that bears and cubs in the wild.

TRAVELLIFE SUMMER 2017 | 45

PHOTOS COURTESY OF CHURCHILL WILD

PHOTO BY JOHN DONELSON Walking with bears After ambling for about an hour, Andy when Albert quietly cautions us to walk
stops abruptly and points. There in the slowly and quietly back toward the
On a late-summer morning, our distance on the shoreline, about 500 buggy. Once safely ensconced in the
group of six clambers into the metres away, is a blurry speck of white. vehicle, I reach once more for my
open-air Tundra Rhino, a custom- Andy reminds us to stay in our single- binoculars. The magnificent creature
built, 8-wheel-drive vehicle that can line formation as he leads us in a zig-zag just stands there on all fours, staring,
navigate over tundra and mud flats. walk toward the bear. “If we spread staring, staring. Beautiful and majestic.
Andy McPherson, a trained bear guide out in a wide line, the bear will be
and environmentalist, shouts over the intimidated and feel she’s being On the afternoon of the second
motor: “Because Nanuk Lodge is attacked,” he says. “We only approach trekking day, we’re out walking again
situated in an active denning area, on an angle—never head-on.” over the mudflats of the Hudson Bay
where mother bears and cubs hang lowlands when Andy points to a polar
out in late summer, while waiting for Through my binoculars, I see the bear bear, out in the open, near some shrubs.
the water to freeze and seal-hunting looking up in our direction. “She’s Albert, however, is staring off in another
season to begin, sightings are plentiful.” spotted us,” says one of our group. “Oh,” direction. Curious, I follow his sightline.
says Albert, “She’s had us on her radar “There,” he points, almost 90 degrees
McPherson carries a starter pistol and long before we even saw her.” The bear from where Andy and most of our
a supply of noisemaker shells, which starts ambling in a westerly direction, group are staring. From behind a shrub,
are used to scare off bears if they get but then circles back, heading right 200 metres away, pops up two of the
too close. We’re also accompanied that toward us. We stand mesmerized. cutest cubs. Albert chuckles. “Mama
morning by Albert, who carries a rifle, “Could be close to 500 pounds,” says bear is over there, moving about, trying
which he’s only ever used to frighten Albert. Before we know it, she’s about to draw attention to herself so we don’t
off a bear. “Just using my voice, or 200 metres away. Albert reminds us see the babies she’s protecting.”
even banging two rocks together, is to stay in our single line. Minutes pass
usually enough to keep the bears and the bear inches closer, causing my We linger for awhile, cameras madly
away,” he explains. heart to pump louder and louder. “She’s snapping photos of the cubs, until
curious,” explains Albert. “She’s trying to the mama bear gets antsy. Not
After driving 45 minutes eastward from figure out if we’re something she could wanting to cause the bears any distress,
the lodge, we stop and climb out of eat.” we move on. After all, this is the land of
the Rhino. Andy and Albert take a few the Nanuk, the home of the polar bear,
minutes to reinforce some of the safety Then the bear—rather boldly, if I do say and we’re simply visitors, some of us
tips discussed over breakfast, and then so—continues in our direction, only simply chasing a childhood dream.
we start walking single file over the stopping to paw her eyes before
tundra, which is blanketed in mosses, resuming her march toward us. That’s
lichens and sedges.

TRAVELLIFE.CA SUMMER 2017 | 46

PHOTO BY JAD DAVENPORT

PHOTO BY CHARLES GLATZER

PHOTO BY JERRY GRAJEWSKI

PHOTO BY CHARLES GLATZER

BEAR NECESSITIES

Getting there: Unique Lodges of the World. There are Northern Lights show:
Nanuk Polar Bear Lodge (churchillwild.com) eight shared guest rooms with ensuite Witnessing the phenomenon of the aurora borealis, a.k.a. the Northern Lights, is yet
is accessible by plane only. Most packages bathrooms, and common rooms in the another bucket-list reason to go north. At Nanuk Polar Bear Lodge, it’s possible for the
include a flight from Winnipeg to Gillam, main lodge. middle-of-the-night light display to happen anytime between July and November. Don’t
where passengers switch to small aircraft worry about falling asleep and missing the awesome event. When the multi-coloured
that lands on a dirt runway near the lodge. Make sure you pack: lights start dancing across the night sky, staff will come banging on your door at any
Binoculars, layered thermal clothing, hour, provided you’ve given them permission in advance. You’ll want to.
The lodge: long-lens camera, water-resistant jacket,
Nanuk Polar Bear Lodge was honoured last toque, sunglasses, rubber boots and TRAVELLIFE SUMMER 2017 | 47
year as one of the National Geographic sunscreen.

EPIC ADVENTURES
THAILAND

Beyond the Beach

Adventure awaits in Southern Thailand’s Khao Sok National Park

By Jessica Padykula

Courtesy of Tourism Authority of Thailand

It might sound like sacrilege to sun-worshippers, INTRODUCING KHAO SOK NATIONAL PARK
but after days of beach-hopping in Southern
Thailand, from Phuket to Koh Lanta to Khao “Where nature meets adventure” couldn’t be a more apt motto for
Lak, I was ready for a change of pace. Khao Sok breathtaking Khao Sok National Park. Situated in Surat Thani
National Park makes for an excellent side trip for province on the mainland between Phuket, Krabi, Khao Lak and
anyone visiting the south of Thailand who needs Koh Samui, the park was established in 1980 as Thailand’s 22nd
a break from the beach or a dose of rainforest National Park. Here you’ll find 739 square kilometres of thick, native
adventure. From jungle trekking, river tubing rainforest, including the oldest evergreen rainforest in the world.
and canoeing, to local hot spring vistas, Close to 50 mammal species and over 300 different species of birds
there’s plenty here to keep adventure-seeking call the park home, including the Malayan sun bear, Asian elephant,
visitors busy—and it’s time more travellers clouded leopard, tiger, gibbon and tapir.
were in on the secret.
Approximately 200 different floral species are also found here,
TRAVELLIFE.CA SUMMER 2017 | 48 including the elusive Rafflesia, the largest flower in the world.
Depending on your interests, Khao Sok has a variety of exciting
options for exploration. One of the most popular activities
here—and justifiably so—is jungle trekking.

I don’t know what to expect as I lace up my running shoes and pack
my daypack with water and sunscreen, but as soon as we hit the trail,
I know I’m about to embark on something special.

As I come to find out, Khao Sok is home to not only an abundance
of unique flora and fauna, but also intricate cave systems, waterfalls,
soaring limestone cliffs, dense thickets of bamboo, towering coconut
palms and sparkling blue-green Cheow Lan Lake, a body of water so
beautifully hued it’s as if an artist hand-mixed the shade. Surrounded
by lush vegetation and towering limestone mountains that seem to
have been tasked with stoically watching over the park, the serene
lake is a highlight of any visit to Khao Sok.