Inspiring Journey_Apr-Jun-2016_INTERGLOBAL

Vol 2, Issue I, Apr-Jun 2016











Contents

10

Cover Story

The Andaman and Nicobar
Islands are made up of about
574 islands (of which only 34
are inhabited) formed by a
submarine mountain range
that divides the Bay of Bengal
from the Andaman Sea.

Cover: gettyimages
Volume 2 Issue I | April-June 2016

Festive India 18

Come autumn, and Bengalis across
the world prepare to celebrate their
biggest, grandest, and most beloved
festival – the Durga Puja.

22

Destination

Secret, secluded, and difficult
to reach except by water, the
Sunderbans is a place of fierce
and unrestrained beauty.

4 | INSPIRING JOURNEYS 2016

26

The Great Escape

The Zanskar Valley is impossibly cold and the air only
gets thinner as you climb higher. But what awaits you is
magnificent – the sight of the gorgeous Zanskar River as
it winds its way across the Valley. And rafting down this
splendid river is an experience you will never forget.

30 28 Green Initiative
Sustainable tourism think-tank
A Bite of India researched, tested, and created
the concept of ‘Message in a
Traditional Bengali cuisine, Bottle’.
like many other cuisines
in India, has, over the 37 Hotel Feature
centuries, absorbed the Barefoot at Havelock resort is
ingredients, flavours, and keenly aware that their guests’
styles of many influences in choice of this destination is
the subcontinent – a result driven by a perception of the
of India’s vast trade links Andamans Islands as one of
with the rest of the world. the last frontiers of outstanding
pristine natural beauty.

42

Experiences

Take a look at the top 5
Heritage Walks of India that
cannot be missed.

INSPIRING JOURNEYS 2016 | 5

Message

Dear ladies & gentlemen
Namaste!
It is my pleasure to be presenting to you this maiden issue of Interglobal’s
INSPIRING JOURNEYS.
This India and regional centric journal is our endeavor to present to you a country in its myriad
colours, experiences, information and all that it makes it true blue- ‘Incredible’.
In the day and age where print word is almost being relegated to near oblivion globally, I am
positive this first issue would interest you to explore the contents, experiences and in the end
of it all inspire and ignite the spark and have you eastward bound.
India as a destination is diverse. Much diverse than one can possibility imagine. Thanks to its
multitude cultures, faiths, climates, tastes, smells, and flavours. They all converge to make it
an experiential destination.
In this very special issue, we travel to and experience:
-That rare jewel of the Bay of Bengal–the Andaman and Nicobar islands. Explore the pristine
natural wealth of these remote islands and salute the indomitable spirit of the islanders.
-We fly-in on shore to the state of West Bengal. To witness the pageant of the home-coming of its
beloved Goddess-`Durga’. The locals `Bengalis’ as the inhabitants are known are passionate about
their way of life, politics, football (soccer) any sport or activity they indulge in.
-Enter the deep, murky, mysterious waters of the world’s largest mangrove forests, also a UNESCO
World Heritage Site, and feel unseen eyes watching you all the time!
-Discover the culinary secrets of the Bengali kitchen and the amazing variety of pleasures it offers to
those of us who love rich yet subtle flavours.
From the eastern shores we move extreme north to Ladakh. Nestled in the shadows of the mighty Himala-
yas, the landscapes here are spell binding to mesmerise the young at heart and the ones refusing to give up
on their love for outdoors. The rarified air, clear blue skies, times less Buddhist monasteries reaching out to
eternity, fast flowing crystal clear water rivers all add up to take your breath away.
In conclusion, the other contributors and writers who share their thoughts and experiences all join me in
bringing to you journeys to keep you inspired.
Thank you for your time, ladies & gentlemen. We look forward to hearing from you and see you in the land
incredible-India.
Wishing you good times !
Sincerely

Moni Sheinberg
President
Interglobal Travel

The real voyage of discovery consists not in seeking new landscapes, but in having new eyes.
— Marcel Proust

6 | INSPIRING JOURNEYS 2016



News

Tourist arrivals in Goa cross 5 million mark in 2015

According to data released by Department of
Tourism, Govt. of Goa, there was no drop
in foreign tourist arrivals in 2015. A total
of 52,97,902 tourists visited Goa in 2015 which
includes 47,56,422 domestic tourists and 5,41,480
foreign tourists. While the state has recorded an
overall 30.54 per cent increase in tourist arrivals
for 2015, domestic tourist arrivals were up by 34
per cent and foreign tourist arrivals up by 5.4 per
cent. Tourist arrivals during the monsoon (June,
July and August 2015) recorded a 22 per cent
increase as against an 18 per cent increase in 2014.
Foreign tourist arrivals to Goa from UK, Russia, UAE,
USA, Portugal, South Africa and many others have
shown an increase in arrivals to the State despite
continued recession and crises that hit the European
regions. The eTV regime introduced by the Central
government in December 2014 has also facilitated
easy access of foreign tourists to Goa. Within a year
(Till December 31 2015) a total of 49,626 eTVs were
issued to foreign tourists.

Now get railway tickets confirmed for emergency travel

Need to travel at short notice on
an emergency or a job interview?
Transporting an elderly or sick person,
but unable to get confirmed railway tickets
under the Emergency Quota (EQ)? You can call
up a newly set-up emergency cell of Southern
Railways where an officer will ensure that
tickets are released under the emergency
quota after verifying the genuineness of the
case.
This recently launched initiative, probably the
only one of its kind in the Indian Railways, is
the brainchild of chief commercial manager
of Southern Railways, Ajeet Saxena. “Any
facility that can be accessed by my old mother
or family members when they are travelling
should be available to those who are facing a
genuine emergency,” he said.
The officer noticed that tickets under EQ
were going to influential people and not the
common man. The new system promises
that the facility will be made available to any
deserving person. Southern Railways has also given the contact number of the officer on special duty, Ishaq Shareiff, who is in charge of the
special cell.
There are individual helpline numbers for every division as well. In every division, the Senior Divisional Commercial Managers (Sr DCM) will be the
nodal officer, and Southern Railways will release their contact numbers next week.
Preference will be given to soldiers travelling at short notice, the elderly, those unwell, women travelling alone, pregnant women, students
travelling for interviews and children who need assistance in emergency travel situations. The special cell can also be contacted in case of
other emergencies for ambulances, medicines and wheel chairs.

8 | INSPIRING JOURNEYS 2016

News

Air India adds new flights on domestic and
International routes

Air India has announced
its Summer schedule

for 2016 with new

flights between Bengaluru-

Thiruvananthapuram, Kolkata-

Agartala, Vijayawada- Bengaluru

and the much-awaited Dehi-

Vienna flight. The national carrier

will also increase its frequency
in the Mumbai-Bhopal, Delhi-
Amritsar, Delhi-Pune, and
Delhi-Kullu (Himachal) sectors.
Increasing its frequency in the
domestic sectors, Air India has
also added a daily return flight
in the Mumbai-Bhopal sector.
The flight will offer day-return
facility to its passengers with a flight from Mumbai departing at 1930 hrs. The return flight from Bhopal will take off at 2130 hrs.
On its International routes, Air India will start operations in the Delhi-Vienna sector with flights operating thrice a week on Wednesday,
Friday and Sunday by B787 commencing April 06, 2016. Passengers looking for more options to Punjab will also be able to enjoy the
fourth frequency with return flights in the Delhi (Del)-Amritsar (ATQ) vv sector. Customers
flying to Russia will now have the facility of a third frequency in the Delhi-Moscow vv sector.
Passengers travelling on the Mumbai-Delhi-Hong Kong-Seoul/Osaka route and back will now
have the comfort of the state-of-the-art B787 aircraft.
To continue expanding its ‘Connect India’ program, Air India will now offer new routes to
Vijayawada from Bengaluru with five return flights a week on its ATR 42. Kolkata will also be
connected to Agartala by an ATR 42 with five return flights per week. Tourists to Himachal
have a daily frequency from Delhi to Kullu in lieu of the existing six days a week.

Rajasthan signs 20 MoUs for Tourism Now plan your
travel with Google
The Rajasthan Government has signed Destinations on
20 Memoranda of Understanding mobiles
(MoU) for projects worth over `963.65
crores to develop the tourism and hospitality Search engine giant Google has
industry in the state. Apart from these, 31 introduced Destinations, a new feature
MoUs were also signed and these projects which will enable users to explore
are expected to generate 26,678 jobs in cities, book flights and also provide travel
the sectors of Industry, Agriculture, Urban recommendations. This is a mobile only
Development and Housing (UDH), and Mining feature that will also integrate Google Flights
and Tourism. The proposal received for the and Hotel Search. Moreover, it will also
projects are spread all over the state such provide instant information, so that users can
as Jaipur, Bikaner, Alwar, Neemrana, Kota, compare different prices offered by various
Baran, Sawai Madhopur, Udaipur, Kishangarh, companies.
Jodhpur, Pushkar, Masuda (Ajmer district),
Chittorgarh, Mordi (Banswara district),
among others. The MoU signing ceremony
was presided over by Vasundhara Raje, Chief
Minister, Government of Rajasthan. Raje
said that during the Resurgent Rajasthan
Partnership Summit, they signed 295 MoUs
amounting to `3.21 lakh crores cutting across sectors. She added that the aim of the state is to
keep the momentum going and to continue to facilitate investment in the state.

INSPIRING JOURNEYS 2016 | 9

Cover Story

The Land Andaman Island

Before Time

10| INSPIRING JOURNEYS 2016

Cover Story

Ross Island

In 1890 Sir Arthur Conan Doyle described the inhabitants of an island thus aquamarine water…only broken here and
“perhaps…the smallest race upon this earth…fierce, morose, intractable”. there by strips of emerald land!

Doyle was describing the natives of the Andaman Islands, the place that The Andaman and Nicobar Islands are
Thas significant mention in his story The Sign of Four. made up of about 574 islands (of which
he islands lay on the trade route and then by the British, who finally managed only 34 are inhabited) formed by a
between Burma and India, and to gain control of most of the islands and submarine mountain range that divides the
made their first appearance on used them as a sort of penal colony for Bay of Bengal from the Andaman Sea. Yet
again, the Andaman Islands are separated
Ptolemy’s 2nd century map; and prisoners. Political prisoners from various from the Nicobar Islands by a 150 km strait.
The islands of Nicobar are strictly off limits
also recorded by the Chinese traveller parts of India began to be sent here in large since the native heritage is fiercely guarded
by both the indigenous people as well as
I-Tsing in the 7th century CE. For thousands numbers only after the completion of the the Indian government.

of years the islands were inhabited by Cellular Jail in 1906. Today, the numbers of This remote chain of tropical islands is thickly
forested (96 per cent forest cover of which
Aboriginal tribes but remained unexplored, the indigenous Andaman people (the Onge, 86 per cent is protected), lush, and covered
with rainforest and tropical trees, volcanoes,
firstly because they were inaccessible, and Jarawa, Sentinelese, Karen) and the Nicobar mangrove swamps, and wonderful palm-
fringed, white-sand stretches of beach,
secondly, adventurous seamen who finally people (the Nicobarese, Shompen) may and the biggest beauty of them all…the
coral reefs!
discovered them and did attempt to come have dwindled, but they stay independent,
It’s in discovering and exploring this
ashore, would be stopped – either attacked protected, and more or less untouched marvellous marine world and its sparkling,
clear waters…that the pleasure of holidaying
or repelled or killed! by modern ‘civilisation’. The Andamans in the Andamans lies. If you love the water
and want to reconnoitre the seabed, then
is home to not only Indians but also

The indigenous Andamanese people seem Burmese, Malays, Bangladeshis, and

to have lived on these islands in isolation, emigrants from Guyana and Sri Lanka.

completely cut off from the rest of the

world, though they were briefly used and From up in the air, lying some 20,000 odd

controlled by both the Tamil Chola kings feet below in India’s Bay of Bengal, the

and the Marathas as naval bases for their archipelago looks stunning. But the view

empires in the 11th and 17th centuries isn’t just that. It’s also a transforming

respectively. The real time of contact experience. The earth somehow appears

happened only in the 18th century when the different…as if there was nothing covering

islands were first colonised by the Danish, the planet but limitless expanses of

INSPIRING JOURNEYS 2016 |11

Cover Story

by all means, scuba dive in! Or you could
snorkel in the bay, swim in coves, windsurf,
water ski, fish…or simply relax as you whizz
on the water in doongis (motorboats),
boats, little ships, and ferries, from one
island to another. For birdwatchers,
trekkers, and nature lovers in general,
the islands are pure paradise – offering
you walks (or drives) through canopied
rainforests that are home to hundreds and
thousands of species of birds, mammals,
reptiles, and plants. Here’s a pick of some
of the finest holiday spots in the islands:

SOUTH ANDAMANS Cellular Jail, Port Blair

PORT BLAIR, the capital, is about 1200 km
from Chennai and Kolkata, and is connected
by several daily flights from both cities,
and also from Delhi. Port Blair is known
perhaps as both the gateway to these
immaculate islands, and also the erstwhile
British penal colony. It’s a small town
where you can go easily on a sights tour in
a couple of days.

Sights Ruins of abandoned church covered with roots, Ross Island Elephant bathing Havelock Island — Courtesy Barefoot at Havelock
The Cellular Jail, the most striking
landmark of Port Blair, was originally built VIPER ISLAND is near Haddo Wharf at
by the British and till 1938, was used to the mouth of the harbour. This served as
incarcerate Indian freedom fighters. Three a prison base before the Cellular Jail was
of the original seven wings survive. The built.
Jail complex is large, clean, kept well, and
even has flower gardens. The museum CORBYN’S COVE is 7 km south of Port Blair
here displays photographs and lists of the and quite famous for its beach. Watch out
‘prisoners’. for crocodiles though!

The Chatham Saw Mill is one of the oldest COLLINPUR is 35 km south of Port Blair and
in Asia. You can take a tour through the the nearest beach where you can swim.
mill and also visit the Forest Museum here The beach is pretty, but again, watch out for
which showcases unusual local varieties of crocodiles!
wood.

The Marine Museum has a collection of
shells and corals, and displays 350 species
of marine life.

The Zonal Anthropological Museum is
worth visiting for its interesting collection
of photographs of early exploratory
expeditions, and the beautifully handcrafted
weapons and artefacts of the natives.

MOUNT HARRIET is 55 km by road / 15 NORTH BAY beach is just north of Port Blair.
km by ferry and trek from Port Blair. It was The beach offers snorkelling in the coral
reefs that fringe it and can be reached by
once the summer headquarters of the ferry from Aberdeen Jetty.

Chief Commissioner during the British rule. CINQUE ISLAND is 26 km from Port Blair.

Mount Harriet is the highest peak in the

South Andamans (365 m).

12| INSPIRING JOURNEYS 2016

Cover Story

Kingfisher at Havelock Island Women’s Jail, Viper Island fantastic coral beds and the tropical marine
eco-system here. It covers an area of 280 sq
Underwater Coral km, and has 15 uninhabited tropical islands
thick with lush forests and mangroves. The
With its tropical rainforests Cinque Island rich marine life includes exotic and rare
is a sanctuary with rare corals and under- species of fish, lovely shells, and beautifully
water marine life, and has a sand–bar coloured corals. While on land, you can
connecting North and South Cinque Islands. see several wonderful species of birds and
ROSS ISLAND is just a 15 minute ferry ride plants. Only two islands are open to visitors
from Port Blair. It was once the home of the – Jolly Buoy and Red Skin – alternatively for
indigenous Great Andamanese, and was 6 months each. Tours begin at Wandoor
the capital from 1848 till 1941, when the village with a ferry ride through some
Japanese took control and turned it into a stunning mangroves, and also include a
POW base. The ruins of the church in the tour of the coral reef in a glass-bottomed
centre, the British Chief Commissioner’s boat, snorkelling, and a drop-off at the
Residence amidst creepers and vines, and beach where you can spend the next couple
the Subalterns’ Club, are reminiscent of a of hours. The two islands have gorgeous
bygone era. talcum-white beaches and offer simply
MAHATMA GANDHI MARINE NATIONAL outstanding views of the underwater corals
PARK (NP) is at Wandoor, which is 29 km and marine life.
south-west of Port Blair, and is an easy
bus ride away. The NP, which was created The tranquil island of CHIDIYA TAPU is 30
in 1983, protects and conserves some km south of Port Blair, and only an hour by
road. It has marvellous beaches; tours that
offer some great snorkelling, diving, and
glass bottomed boat rides. The island also
has several small trails inside the forest that
are great for birdwatching, and is famous
for its gorgeous sunset experience, simply
not to be missed!

BARATANG
Lying between the South and Middle
Andaman Islands, and 100 km north of
Port Blair, the island of Baratang, with its
gorgeous beaches and mangrove creeks, is
famous for its mud volcanoes and limestone
caves. It also has a unique, uninhabited
islet called Tota Tekri (Parrot Island), which
is surrounded by mangroves that are
visited by hundreds of parrots (parakeets
actually) every evening! At sunset, the
parrots congregate and roost here. And
leave the island the next morning. This is
an amazing sight and absolutely worth the
effort. The Baludera Beach is on this island.
The Andaman Trunk Road to Rangat and
Mayabunder goes through this island.

MIDDLE AND NORTH
ANDAMANS

The Andaman Trunk Road is the only road
to the north from Port Blair. It passes
through the restricted Jarawa tribal
reserve but there are daily buses to
Rangat and Mayabunder. The journey
sees some spectacular landscapes and

INSPIRING JOURNEYS 2016 |13

Cover Story

forests. NORTH ANDAMANS islands just north, connected to one another
by a natural silvery white sandbar, which
MIDDLE ANDAMANS RANGAT DIGLIPUR in turn is transformed into a lovely beach.
Rangat is 170 km by road and 90 km by sea Earlier called Port Cornwallis, Diglipur island Evergreen tropical forests cover the expanse
from Port Blair. is the northernmost region for tourists and of the two islands. What makes these islands
travellers. Diglipur is famous for its oranges, truly beautiful and unique is that during high
About 8 km from Rangat is the eco-friendly rice and quiet village life. Flowing through tide, the sandbar disappears, leaving a trail of
Aamkunj Beach which is good for snorkelling. the island is Kalpong, the only river of the water between the two islands and during low
The other places worth exploring around Andamans. tide the sand bar appears again, creating the
Rangat are the Dhaninallah Mangrove effect of a dumbbell-like shape! The islands
Nature Walk Way and Morcidera. KALIPUR BEACH have a marine sanctuary making them perfect
22 km from Diglipur is the wonderful, to do a spot of scuba diving or snorkelling to
MAYABUNDER serene, palm tree-lined Kalipur Beach. The view the beautiful coral reefs and stunning
Situated on the northernmost edge of Beach provides lovely views of Ross Island underwater life. The surrounding tropical
Middle Andaman Island, and surrounded and is set against the impressive backdrop forests are great for trekking and trail hiking.
by mangrove swamps, Mayabunder is 157 of Saddle Peak (730 m), the highest peak of Ross and Smith Islands are also home to
km by sea from Port Blair. It juts out as a the Andaman and Nicobar Islands. the Olive Ridley turtles that come here to
peninsula into the sea northwards between nest in the winter months – a phenomenon
Middle Andaman and North Andaman The Andaman and Nicobar Islands are also absolutely worth sighting!
Island. You can visit the enchanting black home to the beautiful Olive Ridley turtles
sand Karmatang Beach which is 13 km during their nesting period in December/ The limestone Alfred Caves are near Ram
away. The sea is quite gentle here, and the January. Turtle nesting takes place at Nagar Beach. You need to hire a guide
sand soft. Avis Beach is a convex-shaped Kalipur beach, which also has a turtle or take the help of a forest guard to
beach, so unlike most others, it juts out into hatchery. This is a truly incredible sight… accompany you on the trek through the
the sea. The trip to this beach is worth the don’t miss the chance to see thousands forest to the cluster of 41 caves. It’s best to
visit to the beautiful white-ringed coconut of these fascinating, primitive creatures as start early in the morning so that you are
plantation that sits in the middle of a they slowly gather on the beach. back by evening.
small island here. Permission is required
to visit the island. And then, for the big LAMIYA BAY BEACH RITCHIE’S ARCHIPELAGO
adventure lover, Interview Island is perfect. A few kilometres ahead of Kalipur lies the Lying about 20-40 km off the east coast
About a three hour doongi ride away from pebbled Lamiya Bay Beach. The beach lies of South Andaman and Baratang, Ritchie’s
Mayabunder, the uninhabited island is at the foothills of Saddle Peak. To make a Archipelago consists of mostly inhabited
covered with dense jungle, mangrove trek to Saddle Peak NP, its best to start early islands, of which only three are open to
creeks, and is home to wild elephants! Only in the morning after camping at Lamiya Bay. foreign tourists: Havelock, Neil, and Long
day visits are permitted. Island. They can be reached by ferry from
ROSS AND SMITH ISLANDS are tiny, circular Port Blair and Rangat Bay.

Leatherback Turtle

14| INSPIRING JOURNEYS 2016

Cover Story

HAVELOCK ISLAND coral-spotting. At the Sitapur Beach, South Button and Middle Button.
21 nautical miles northeast of Port Blair, where you can watch the sunrise, a lovely
this gorgeous island with its long stretch curve of the bay ends at limestone caves LITTLE ANDAMAN ISLAND
of pristine beaches is undeniably one of where the Hawabill birds (unique to the Home to the Onge, one of the last
the loveliest in the entire archipelago. Andamans) build their ‘edible’ nests! remaining negrito tribes, the island lies 120
Also, strolling through its paddy fields, Then there is a natural rock formation km south of Port Blair across the Duncan
and banana and coconut plantations, is a in Laxmanpur Beach which is also called Passage, around 6 hours by boat. Much of
nice way to unwind at leisure. The most the Howrah Bridge, possibly due to its the island is covered by betel, red oil palm,
exciting spots though, are the Radhanagar unique shape! It’s good to see this during and banana plantations. Hut Bay in Little
Beach, which is a striking curved bay with a low tide. Sir Hugh Rose Island (also called Andaman is the entry and exit point and
sudden beautiful lagoon at the far end; and Chhota Neil) is a tiny island at the southern also the island headquarters. 14 km away
the narrow but stunning Elephant Beach, tip of Neil Island. It has been declared a is Butler Bay Beach, with white coral sands,
which can be reached by either ferry or a wild life sanctuary and is a turtle-nesting and great for surfing. Also 14 km east of Hut
short jungle trek. Vijaynagar Beach and ground. Visitors require permission from Bay, stands the Little Andaman lighthouse
Kalapather Beach are also great stretches if the Forest Department at Neil Island and (41 m). 200 steps up the spiral tower, and
you enjoy long walks. only day visits are permitted. you have spectacular views of the coastline
and forests. There are also lovely waterfalls
The sea along the coast of Havelock is rich LONG ISLAND on the island. White Surf waterfall is 6.5 km
in coral and marine life, offering some of 47 nautical miles from Port Blair, this away in the rainforest and can be reached
the best spots to go diving: Seduction Point, small, unspoilt island has silvery beaches, by a path along a freshwater creek. You
Aquarium, and Lighthouse are the most secluded coves perfect for sunbathing can also trek to the top of the waterfall
popular spots; other good spots are Pilot and snorkelling, green hills, swamp and which is like a pool on the hill. Whisper
Reef, Mac Point, Turtle Bay, and Minerva evergreen forests, and immense marine Wave waterfall is 25 km away, again, in the
Ledge. Snorkelling is also wonderful here, wealth. Long Island is also a birder’s forest. You need to trek 4 km through the
especially at the Lighthouse near Elephant paradise. The main beach of this beautiful rain forest to get here. There are two more
Beach and Aquarium, which have shallow island is Lalaji Bay. The coconut tree-lined waterfalls above Whisper Wave, and more
coral ecosystems. beach is pristine and is a two hour trek at Krishna Tala. You could also bird-watch
through the forest or reached by boat. at 18 km (RK Pur) Dam, or visit the Red Oil
NEIL ISLAND The area around Long Island has some of Palm Plantation.
19 nautical miles northeast of Port Blair, the best dive sites in the Andamans. You
this is the smallest island in the Andamans can also take day trips by boat to beautiful But perhaps Little Andaman’s most
that tourists are permitted to stay on. The Merk Bay on North Passage Island, delightful claim to fame is this: it’s now
island is dense with lush green forests and where you might get the chance to see famous as one of India’s finest surfing
is quite peaceful since it has much fewer dolphins! And if you’re feeling rather destinations! So if you love to ride the
visitors than Havelock. The Bharatpur adventurous, you can travel further to waves, then grab your board and simply
Beach here is great for swimming and the exotic Button Islands: North Button, surf!

Beautiful cottage at Havelock Island Neil Island beach

INSPIRING JOURNEYS 2016 |15

Cover Story

Nicobar Pigeon (Caloenas nicobarica)

Fishing — Courtesy Barefoot at Havelock Parasailing

GREAT NICOBAR of Great Nicobar. Beware of crocodiles On December 26, 2004 the tsunami
though! that shook the Indian Ocean devastated
Now this one requires immense patience, the coasts of the Andaman and Nicobar
determination, and an iron-clad stomach!! Once primitive, remote, and inaccessible, Islands, killing and injuring thousands
Great Nicobar is 500 km south of Port Blair. the Andaman Islands are now world-class of people, and destroying homes. The
It’s actually a 40 hour ship journey which holiday destinations that offer a mind- consequent road to complete recovery,
is definitely NOT for the seasick! There is boggling range of fantastic activities and rehabilitation, and restoration has been
also a weekly helicopter service and ferry experiences to choose from! You’ll simply neither easy nor quick. But nearly 12
services from Port Blair. The only town fall in love with these! years on, these incredibly pristine and
here is Campbell Bay, which has a lone exquisite islands still stand solitary, remote
guesthouse. Adventure water sports include water even, with great pride – having solidly
skiing, water scooter, speed-boat rides, established themselves as not only one
However, if you do manage to make the wind-surfing; safe water sports include of the finest and safest holiday and
journey, know that you’re going to feel like paddle boats, row boats, and water adventure destinations in the world today
one who’s just been blessed! For Great cycles. Then there’s all this too: game but also as protectors and preservers
Nicobar has glorious beaches and sands, fishing; forest and beach camping; of the islands’ native peoples and
crystal clear waters, lush rainforests… snorkelling and scuba diving; sea ancient heritage, their glorious natural
which sounds exactly like the other islands walk; sailing; kayaking; trekking; bird beauty, and their spectacular marine
but with a little difference: it’s virtually free watching; mangrove creek safari; even an ecosystems.
of tourists! If you ardently desire immense elephant ride; or simply beach-combing,
solitude, then Great Nicobar it is! When sunbathing, swimming, and watching These peaceful islands, rich with beauty and
you’re here be sure to see the Indira Point the sunrise and sunset over the emerald mystery, are among India’s most cherished
Lighthouse at the southernmost edge waters! treasures. Do visit. n

16| INSPIRING JOURNEYS 2016



DEVI: The unvanquished oneDurgaidol

Yaa Devi sarva bhuteshu Maatri rupena samsthitaa
Yaa Devi sarva bhuteshu Shakti rupena samsthitaa
Yaa Devi sarva bhutesu Shanti rupena samsthitaa
Namastasyai Namastasyai Namastasyai Namoh Namah
(To that Goddess who in all beings is abiding in the form of Mother
To that Goddess who in all beings is abiding in the form of power
To that Goddess who in all beings is abiding in the form of peace
Salutations to her, Salutations to her, Salutations to her)

– Aparajita Stuti: Yaa Devi Sarva Bhutesu

Artisan at work in Kumortuli The nip in the early morning air heralds
the arrival of the divine Goddess. Come
autumn, and Bengalis across the world
prepare to celebrate their biggest,
grandest, and most beloved festival – the Durga
Puja. Durga Puja begins with Mahalaya.

According to legend, Goddess Durga visits the
earth for only four days but begins her descent
to earth seven days before the Puja. Hence, the
auspicious occasion of Mahalaya, observed
seven days before the Durga Puja, announces
the advent of Durga, who is Shakti (supreme
power) personified. Mahalaya is an invocation
of the mother Goddess, inviting her to descend
on earth saying “Jaago Tumi Jaago, Jaago
Durga…” (“Rise O Durga...”).

18| INSPIRING JOURNEYS 2016

Festive India

The dhak

Durga aarati

him with her trident after a fierce combat.
Heaven and earth rejoice at her victory.

This is the essence of the festival. Durga Puja
not only marks this great victory but also
epitomises the triumph of Good over Evil.
The deeper message being to annihilate all
desire and unfold divinity in each one of
us! In Bengal, Durga is worshipped as the
destroyer of evil and the protector of her
devotees.

Sindur-khela The first grand worship of the Goddess Durga
in recorded history is said to have been
Since the early 1930s these beautiful Mahalaya. celebrated in the late 1500s. Apparently,
words have been brought alive to millions only the richest zamindar (feudal landlords)
of Bengalis around the world by AIR (All And this is the voice every Bengali home families would organise the Puja in their
India Radio) – when it started the early waits for – for it means that Durga has homes. However, in the 18th – 19th centuries
morning programme Mahisasura Mardini finally come to her home: to be loved, and the early 20th century, the growing
or The Annihilation of the Demon – by revered, and celebrated! middle class, mainly in Calcutta, wished to
the sonorous and enchanting voice of the celebrate Puja. They created the community
legendary Birendra Krishna Bhadra. The Durga means ‘one who is difficult to or Sarbojanin Puja (puja for all), a tradition
programme, a lovely audio montage of approach’. She is the Mother Goddess that carries to this day.
recitation from the scriptural verses of the (Maa), the one who embodies the primeval
Chandi Kavya, Bengali devotional songs, source of all power. She personifies love, Commemorating the ten day festival are
and classical music, continues to run to this compassion, beauty, prosperity, and all its six most important days – Mahalaya,
very day. Much before sunrise, Bhadra’s virtues. She is worshipped in 64 different Shashthi, Maha Saptami, Maha Ashtami,
moving invocation fills the air, marking the forms, of which Parvati, the wife of Siva is Maha Nabami and Vijayadashami.
beginning of the countdown to Durga Puja. one. In her form as the Goddess Durga, she
is the beautiful and terrifying warrior with But Durga Puja isn’t simply about ten days
Bhadra, in his inimitable style, recites ten arms, each arm carrying ten different of fast, feast, worship, prayers, traditions,
the holy verses and tells the story of the lethal weapons given to her by the Gods; and religious rituals. The grand festival is
descent of Durga to earth. Bhadra has long she rides a lion to battle with the evil also an occasion for family, friends, reunion,
passed, but his voice remains the heart of buffalo demon Mahisasura, finally slaying rejuvenation, and the celebration of that
precious gift called life! And no other Indian

INSPIRING JOURNEYS 2016 |19

Festive India

Pandal panel depicting Goddess Durga buffalo; also on the tableau are her four serious business indeed! Neighbourhoods
children – Kartikeya, Ganesha, Saraswati, compete with each other to create stunning,
city celebrates Durga Puja quite like Kolkata! and Lakshmi. The pratima (traditional clay unique pandals – finally, the pandal created
Bengalis simply call it Pujo! image of Durga) with all five gods and around the most outstanding theme, walks
goddesses under one structure is known as away with the honours! But the pandals
Charming, laid-back Kolkata springs to ‘ek-chala’ (one cover). aren’t just places of worship – they come
life during Pujo. The air is thick with the alive with art, music, dance, food, stalls,
fragrance of camphor, incense, and flowers; In Kumortuli, the famous artisans’ town in games, fairs, and cultural programmes.
the aroma of fantastic food feasts being north Kolkata, preparations begin months
prepared wafts out of homes and temples; in advance. Clay for the sculptures is Pujo in the city is like a giant, mad carnival
shops and malls overflow as frenzied collected from the banks of the Ganges, that spills out into the streets…the streets
shoppers buy new clothes, sweets, and and work begins. The entire process are jammed, transport virtually comes to a
Pujo items. of creation, right from sculpting to standstill – but the enthusiastic, cheerful,
ornamentation, is done only according to tenacious Bengalis simply walk everywhere!
Meanwhile, across the city and its traditional rituals. Beginning with Goddess They walk from neighbourhood to
suburbs, thousands of special Pujo pandals Durga, the eyes of the deities are painted neighbourhood, pandal to pandal; distance,
(enormous temporary canopies – held by on them on Mahalaya. Before painting the size, age, class, caste, religion – none of it
a framework of bamboo poles and draped eyes, the artisans fast for a day and eat only matters…because this is Kolkata going to
with colourful fabric – where the exquisitely vegetarian food! see its beloved Maa Durga.
sculpted icons of the Goddess and other
deities are placed for worship) are set The typical traditional pandal has Neon light images twinkle and the night skies
up. The traditional icon of the goddess today evolved to become a sheer visual are lit up with fireworks. Both popular as well
worshipped during the Durga Puja depicts extravaganza that is nothing short of as traditional music plays on loudspeakers.
the Goddess on a tableau – astride a lion, spectacular! Pandal decoration is a very Food stalls serve delicious fare in every
her trident piercing Mahisasura as he lies
dying in both forms as half demon-half

20| INSPIRING JOURNEYS 2016

Festive India

nook and corner of the city. Inside the Later, families and friends visit each other.
pandal, crowds gather to offer pushpanjali Greetings of “Shubho Bijoya” (auspicious
(offering of flowers) in the mornings; women victory) are then exchanged, and sweets
sound the “ululudhvani” (ululation); in the offered.
evenings, the dhakis (ritual drummers)
play the dhak (ceremonial leather-strung As the fervour and clamour of the past
drums); and as the beat of the dhak rises to few days slowly winds down, it is time for
a crescendo, the priest performs the aarati the people of Kolkata to now get back to
(ceremonial adoration with kindled lamps), work – their hearts full of their magnificent
to chants and singing. As the beauteous face Goddess and the love, joy, courage, and
of the Goddess glows with the light from the strength she bestows on them every year.
flame, everyone bows in prayer, invoking her
blessings. Till next autumn. n

After nine days of worship and celebration,
it is time to bid farewell to Maa Durga. On
Vijaya Dashami (vijaya means victory), the
tenth and last day of Durga Puja, women
holding dhunuchi (earthen lamps filled with
lit coconut husks) dance the traditional
dhunuchi nritya in front of the Goddess
to the beat of the dhak; married women
participate in sindoor khela (smearing
each other with red vermillion powder);
then the idols are carried out in large
processions from every corner of the
city towards various ghats of the Ganga
and immersed in the water (bishorjon)
– to chants, and the beat of the dhak,
symbolising the departure of the Goddess
from the earth to be reunited with her
consort Siva.

Durga idol slowly being immersed in the Ganges on Dashami

INSPIRING JOURNEYS 2016 |21

The of the TigerTheRoyalBengalTiger,theSunderbans
112 km south of Kolkata, away from
A thousand dangers lurk beneath the foliage among the mire and sallow the charming city’s chaos and busy
waters. Large and ancient crocodiles patiently await their prey, hiding by streets, is no ordinary city or town
ponds and riverbanks; tigers stalk passing boats, ready to pounce upon or even a thriving ‘tourist’ spot. For
here, deep in India’s vast and alluvial-rich
the first sailor that strays too close to shore. Rhinoceroses roam and Ganges Delta lies an incredible portion of
attack at the slightest provocation; snakes abound in infinite varieties, the earth. The Sunderbans.

from tiny poisonous serpents to enormous pythons large Secret, secluded, and difficult to reach
enough to grind an ox within their coils. except by water, the Sunderbans is a place
of fierce and unrestrained beauty. Perhaps
– From The Mystery of the Black Jungle
(Original Italian Title: I Misteri Della Jungla Nera), 1895

By Emilio Salgari

22| INSPIRING JOURNEYS 2016

Destination

Salt water crocodile in the mangroves

even somewhat intimidating at first sight. From the water, mangrove trees like hetal, Fishing
But this untamed treasure in the wild garjan, and sundari appear like gnarled,
makes you catch your breath, and wonder… tangled forms – fringing the land with long, – and then recedes, leaving behind only
could a place like this possibly be so close twisted roots that rise snorkel-like, through shimmering sand.
to ‘ civilisation’ and yet so remote? But yes, the thick mud of the swamp. The spiky roots
it indeed is! are magnificent. The mangrove’s sprawling These remarkable mangroves are a mix
root system at the water’s edge protects the of trees and shrubs that encompass two
The Sunderbans is a delta in the Bay of land from erosion. The pneumatophores, countries – southern Bangladesh and a
Bengal that forms the world’s largest as they are called, are specially modified part of West Bengal in India – covering an
contiguous tidal mangrove forest. Named roots of trees that grow out of the water’s enormous area of 6,000 sq km and another
for the beautiful native sundari tree, this surface to let the trees breathe. 4,000 sq km respectively! On both sides of
spectacular delta region is made up of the border, densely populated villages flank
densely forested, mangrove-fringed islands The marvellous mangrove trees have protected areas specially earmarked for
interwoven by an unbelievably labyrinthine evolved over thousands of years to the region’s extraordinary and outstanding
network of creeks, backwaters, and canals withstand the relentless pull of a powerful biodiversity.
that crisscross each other in a vast saltwater shifting tide that swamps the low-lying
swamp. forest – constantly creating new banks The Sunderbans was declared a UNESCO
World Heritage Site in 1987 and a Biosphere
Reserve in 1989. It is also a National Park

INSPIRING JOURNEYS 2016 |23

Destination

Brown winged Kingfisher

White heron and a Tiger Reserve. The Sunderbans Tiger Axis deer
reserve is in South 24 Paraganas, West
Bengal. from the forest; and often, on the mud
Here, in the deep, dark, swampy waters and banks, you’ll see the deep pugmarks of the
its secret forests, you may see a brilliantly elusive tiger!
hued kingfisher or a noisy macaque or The many species of mangrove are also
a silent estuarine crocodile… ostensibly home to more than 300 different species
sleeping! of birds, and an amazing variety of reptiles,
and marine animals, including.
The Sunderbans is an absolute paradise for
an astounding and splendid array of diverse But the undisputed king of the mangroves
species of animals. If it’s your lucky day, you is most definitely the stunning and
could spot all kinds of fantastic creatures menacing Royal Bengal Tiger. Both feared
– such as the rare Irrawaddy and Ganges and protected, the big cat of the world’s
River dolphins, the highly endangered largest mangrove forests is a unique one
Royal Bengal tiger, and other endangered – standing out among its fellow cats all
species such as the saltwater crocodile, over the world. Here, in the swampy
the river terrapin, the Olive Ridley Turtle, forests, the endangered tigers are
the hawksbill turtle, and the mangrove completely at home. They are also
horseshoe crab. powerful, excellent swimmers, allowing
them to navigate their way around this
And then at low tide, you might get to see watery landscape.
other animals such as the wild boar, flying
fox, pangolin, and spotted deer emerge For the tiger to adapt to the tough
Sunderbans terrain is a testament to the
remarkable resilience of the species.

24| INSPIRING JOURNEYS 2016

Destination

However, surviving on the brackish water The Sajnekhali Tiger Reserve is the heart World’s largest mangrove forest
seems to have increased its appetite and of the Sunderbans. It’s the only place
changed its usual diet! The Sunderbans where tourists can safely step onto land the most densely populated countries
is the only place on earth where tigers and explore the reserve, all with a guide on earth – India and Bangladesh – yet it
still actively hunt humans for food! And of course! The reserve has a watchtower, remains secluded, difficult and inhospitable,
the Sunderbans tiger is unbelievably a crocodile pond, an Olive Ridley Turtle and largely uninhabited by people. But
dangerous. enclosure, a museum, the Mangrove the breath taking Sunderbans is truly
Interpretation Centre, and the Herbivore wild terrain – and when you ride the
Having said that, you should still go. Why? Acclimatisation Centre that rehabilitates water to travel into its mysterious,
Because the star of the mangroves IS the lost deer! swampy heart of darkness, it’s electrifying,
Royal Bengal Tiger. One of the last major enchanting, heart-stopping, and tranquil…
tiger populations on earth lives here. The Sajnekhali Bird Sanctuary lies on all at once! Because in this place of
More than a hundred tigers live in the the confluence of the Matla and Gumdi shifting sands and tides, the indomitable
Sunderbans, calling it home. rivers. For birders, this is wonderful – the mangroves are what hold the mighty land
rare Asian dowitcher, white ibis, paradise together. n
Funnily, despite their dubious reputation, flycatcher, Caspian tern, white-bellied sea
the tigers are extremely difficult to spot, eagle, peregrine falcon…are just a few of
but the incredible thrill of trying to track the sheer variety of birds to spot here!
one down is indescribable! And even
if you’re disappointed at seeing none, But perhaps what is truly worth doing here
simply cruising through thick mangrove is to simply spend a day on the boat. Visit
forests on your boat is an experience you’ll the mohona, the place where the waters
never forget! of the five mighty rivers merge. Or navigate
the amazing network of creeks, canals and
Sajnekhali, at the confluence of the backwaters. Monsoon cruises are especially
Peechkali and Gomdi rivers, is the main stunning.
entry point to the Sunderbans. Tourists
can take routes chalked out by the Forest The largest mangrove forest in the
Department, in the Sajnekhali Wildlife world is a primeval place, shrouded in
Sanctuary and Tiger Reserve. But every mist, crisscrossed by rivers; it’s a swamp
boat that goes into the sanctuary area of shifting tides, maze-like creeks and
NEEDS a guide. The core area is closed backwaters, silent man-eating tigers, and
to tourists but, you can visit other buffer unusual adventure. It’s flanked by two of
areas, all accessible only by boats.

INSPIRING JOURNEYS 2016 |25

The Great Escape

ZANSKAR: Down the
It’s a three-day bus journey from Leh to Ladakh, in the northernmost state of
Jammu and Kashmir. The starkly stunning landscape of the Zanskar Valley lies
in the high-altitude mountains of Ladakh – they protect the Valley, keeping it
T beautifully remote and nearly inaccessible.
he Zanskar Valley is impossibly cold with great seriousness. The last bit is the one to take in the outstanding beauty of the
and the air only gets thinner as you to pay attention to the most! Because, here rugged peaks and the bare terrain as you
climb higher. But what awaits you in the beautiful but unpredictable Zanskar glide past them.

is magnificent – the sight of the Valley, nothing is to be taken for granted

gorgeous Zanskar River as it winds its way or underestimated. When you’re rafting, Over the next few days, the expedition stops

across the Valley. And rafting down this especially if you’re a beginner, it’s only too at designated campsites along the way,

splendid river is an experience you will never easy to fall into the bitterly cold water – and allowing you to break journey, relax, and

forget. get hypothermia, and that’s dangerous. recoup, so that you can be up at the crack of

In rafting, rivers are graded according to dawn the next day – to get ready for the river

Remala, the base for the rafting expedition, is how easy, difficult, or even how dangerous again!

situated on the Stod River, a tributary of the they are, to navigate. The Zanskar is graded

Zanskar River. Remala lies 230 km SE of Kargil; as a difficult class IV river! When the rafts enter the breath taking gorge

415 km SW of Leh. The route requires you to that drains the river system of the Zanskar,

spend a few days acclimatising, preparing Carrying the rafters are paddle rafts and oar- it’s both terrifying and thrilling! Because

you to overcome the dizziness, headaches, powered rafts, catarafts for the gear, several here, there’s no other way to move forward

and breathlessness; conditions that come safety kayakers, and of course, the one except on the water – you raft or go by boat

with the high altitudes of the region. person each group of rafters can’t do without or in the deep winter, when the Zanskar

– the guide. freezes over, you walk on the ice! There’s not

Remala, beached by the gushing Stod that is a plant or even a shore in sight, just black,

racing through the mountains, is where the The first stretches of the river are short and red and mustard rock walls looming high

rafting expedition begins. Rafts are pumped easy, with a few Class II rapids. Meanwhile, and craggy on either side of the roaring river.

up and gear is loaded; neoprene wetsuits, the guides are constantly at hand, giving Here, in the deep gorge, the Class III rapids

splash jackets, gloves and helmets are put lessons on how to paddle and move through get tougher, faster, furious, and more and

on; safety and rescue instructions are issued the speeding waters. And yes, there is time more tricky to navigate; the rock cliffs get

26| INSPIRING JOURNEYS 2016

The Great Escape

solitary riverRaftingontheZanskarriver,JammuandKashmir
narrower, ensuring that you put all you have
into paddling; as if your very life depended and IV rapids again, crossing the confluence
on it! Rescue is much tougher here than in of the Indus, eventually reaching the shore at
other spots. Nimu, from where you travel back to Leh.

But it’s in the very heart of the gorge that the What are you waiting for? The magnificent
real excitement lies. Rafters will experience Zanskar River beckons. n
large Class IV rapids as the river now smashes
its way through extremely long stretches that
can only be covered over the next few days
with a break or two at campsites.

But finally, after hours and days of tireless
paddling and navigating, you approach the
very last and most chilling stretch; and you’re
marvellously rewarded with a moment you’ll
never forget for the rest of your life as the
ferocious river bursts out of the canyon
and then simply drops. Down
you go, raft, paddle and
all…till you hit the
enormous
expanse
of water
below!

From here,
you paddle
through Class III

INSPIRING JOURNEYS 2016 |27

Green Initiative

Message in a bottle

We take this role very seriously and as an organisation that World-renowned still water bottling
put together the first travel foundation – we uphold eco- companies such as Coca Cola (Kinley),
friendly practices in order to minimise the degradation of the Aquafina (Pepsi), and Bisleri, produce
environment. one, two, 20 and 25 litre water bottles of
The company’s sustainable tourism the same still water. Once the water from
think-tank researched, tested, and container and can carry the water bottle to one and two litre bottles is consumed, the
created the concept of ‘Message their room, restaurant, etc. bottles are simply thrown away, thereby
in a Bottle’. The message is a polluting the environment. However, in the
Guests can take these bottles back with them case of 20 and 25 litre water bottles, once
the water is consumed and the bottles are
simple low-cost option which helps clients as souvenirs or donate them to NGOs in India emptied, they go back to the company
be green tourists. To reduce the use of who work for the uplift of the economically and are then disinfected and refilled,
plastics, we have come up with the unique deprived and the under privileged. The encouraging the concept of reuse.
initiative of providing metal sippers to their sippers would then be thoroughly disinfected
clients when they arrive in India; and for and gifted to special schools for the use of We would use these types of 20/25 litre
the entire duration of their stay. The metal under privileged children. sealed water bottles, and once water
is consumed from each bottle, we
sipper would have both their name and the would replace it with another sealed
bottle. The bottle will not be refilled
promoting company’s logo engraved on it. from a tap or any other source;
we would buy only sealed bottles
This reusable bottle is then used when they from the company.

travel around the country. Our research Do join our campaign to save the
environment. Your contribution
shows that for a ten day long holiday in will go a long way in making this
world a better place
India, a tourist spends much more than by simply reducing
the use of plastic! n
€20 on mineral water. Keeping this factor

in mind, our metal sipper will be especially

made available to you at €15.

This metal bottle can be refilled with clean
water wherever and whenever required.
To facilitate this, we would carry a 20 litre
water container that carries pure mineral
water, ensuring an unlimited supply of
clean and pure drinking water for
the entire duration of the
holiday. Clients can refill
their metal sipper/
bottle from
this big

28| INSPIRING JOURNEYS 2016



Fish in mustard paste

Oanf dthtehseil bnoortai

Once, during a visit to Calcutta, I was invited to lunch by a woman whose reputation
as a Bengali cook made me accept with delighted anticipation. The meal she served
surpassed my expectations. What stood out above all the expensive fish and meat was
her mochar ghanto, a fragrant dish consisting of banana blossom, or mocha, combined
with tiny cubed potatoes, tinier coconut chips, chickpeas, and spices. It’s a classic of
Bengali cuisine which is known for its flavourful yet delicate use of spices and a wide
range of ingredients.

- (Author Chitrita Banerji in her food piece ‘Banana Blossom’)

30| INSPIRING JOURNEYS 2016

A Bite of India

Geography has had the biggest role the centuries, absorbed the ingredients, food from the New World - potatoes,
to play in shaping the traditional flavours, and styles of many influences chillies, and tomatoes. These were
food of Bengal. in the subcontinent – a result of India’s integrated into the native Bengali cuisine to
Bengal or ‘Sonar Bangla’ vast trade links with the rest of the world. create new dishes. In colonial Bengal, the
(Golden Bengal), was the name given to Assimilating, and modifying itself, the British famously introduced tea (hence the
the combined regions of what are now cuisine of Bengal today has come to tea plantations of West Bengal!), chops,
the Indian state of West Bengal (in eastern inherit a legacy of food that is all at once puffs, pastries and cutlets – all now such
India) and the country of Bangladesh distinct, vibrant, rich, and subtle in flavour. an inseparable part of the Bengali snack
(earlier called East Bengal). Bengal is an In ancient times (and incredibly till today) tradition! And the Portuguese introduced
enormous delta region, rich with alluvial the cornerstones of this unique culinary cottage-cheese (called chhana), which is
soil, which comes to life every year with tradition were always rice, vegetables, milk, now the mainstay of most Bengali sweets.
the silt deposited by innumerable flooding and fish – all local ingredients. Mangoes,
rivers. Small rivers meet the big ones like bananas, coconuts, and sugarcane were Then there were the immigrant
the Ganges, the Brahmaputra, and the also abundant. And then yoghurt, and communities like the Baghdadi Jews who
Padma, and together they eventually make spices such as ginger and black mustard set up Kolkata’s famous Jewish bakeries.
their way into the Bay of Bengal. were used for seasoning. The Anglo-Indians also popularised baking
and the celebration of Christmas, two
The fertile delta land is manna to the When the Mughals came to India in the significant traditions of the British legacy in
farmers! The land and its great rivers 16th century, they brought with them the India. Bengal had its first taste of Chinese
offer them the precious and abundant Mughlai style of cooking, characterised food when Chinese migrants came here in
gifts of rice, vegetables, fruits, and the by ‘dum’ (slow cooking), rich gravies and the late 18th century. The Marwaris from
beloved FISH…without which rarely is a sauces, and plenty of meats. Muslim rule western India, brought with them their
Bengali meal complete! The rivers, lakes, in Bengal was centred in Dhaka, in what confectionary skills, much to the delight
and the swampy coastal waters of the was then East Bengal. The Mughlai food of the sweet-toothed Bengalis! Both the
mangrove forests of the Sunderbans are traditions slowly made their way from there Chinese and the Marwari communities
flush with freshwater fish, which have to the courts of the Nawabs of Bengal, who also popularised the concept of street
come to form the most integral part popularised the cuisine here. food, again so inherent to the Bengali food
of a Bengali repast. But in Bengal, fish culture.
is not merely food. The ubiquitous When Wajid Ali Shah, the last Nawab of
fish is seen as a symbol of fertility Awadh was exiled to Bengal in the 19th All these multicultural culinary traditions
and prosperity; finding its way into century, he brought with him the wonderful were soon woven into a distinct food
practically every aspect of the Bangla legacy of Awadhi cuisine – derived from heritage in Bengal. Having said that,
culture, from food to rituals to celebrations Mughal cuisine – that introduced among traditional Bengali cooking has always been
to even art and the movies…fish is a way of other dishes, kebabs, biriyani, and koftas mostly confined to the home. Families have
life here! to the state. Tipu Sultan, the exiled ruler of recipes passed down from generation to
Mysore, also brought his version of Mughlai generation. Today’s cosmopolitan Bengalis
But more on that later. What you must cuisine when he shifted here. may love the idea of experimenting with
know is that traditional Bengali cuisine, and incorporating all kinds and styles of
like many other cuisines in India, has, over The European traders brought with them food, but what brings them truly home is

INSPIRING JOURNEYS 2016 |31

A Bite of India

traditional Bengali fare.

One of the most remarkable features of Bengali cuisine is that food is
typically served over traditional courses, during meal times.

“From shukto to payesh”, was Rabindranath Tagore’s phrase for a
complete Bengali meal. This basically means that one must begin
with bitters and end with sweets. Hence, the shukto (a bitter palate
cleanser, made up of neem or other bitter leaves, bitter gourd,
eggplant, potatoes, radish, and green bananas, spices like turmeric,
and ginger, mustard, and celery seed pastes) and the payesh (a sweet
milk and rice pudding).

A typical Bengali meal goes not only from bitter to sweet but also Roasted dumplings of coconut and poppy seeds
from delicate, subtle flavours to stronger ones, allowing you to go Begun Bhaja or egg plant fry
through an entire range of tastes. Eating in Bengal is akin to the
Japanese ritual of making, pouring, and drinking tea – gradual,
savouring each mouthful to experience its full flavour! When food
is served, a little bit of rice is eaten with each dish separately. The
meal begins with a dollop of steaming rice served with ghee, salt,
wedges of fragrant green lime, and green chillies. Vegetables,
mainly the bitter ones, come first; followed by dal (lentils), perhaps
accompanied by either boiled vegetables, or fries or fritters of fish
and vegetables. Next up is any vegetable dish like dalna or ghanto
or chachchari, followed by a lightly spiced fish jhol (gravy) and
then other spicier fish dishes. Mangsho (meat-mutton or lamb or
chicken) always follows fish. Followed by delightfully tart sweet-sour
chutneys that are also palate cleansers, preparing you for dessert.
Chutney is served with paapad (poppadoms). Dessert to finish could
be mishti-doi (sweet curds) or payesh or dry sweets accompanied by
fruits like mango. And what better way to digest such a sumptuous
meal than with paan (betel leaves)!

Pure golden mustard oil is the most important medium of cooking
since it lends a pungent flavour to many of the traditional dishes. Fish
cooked in mustard oil is considered exquisite!

But perhaps what secretly and quietly wins it for Bangla cooking is the
addition of the fragrant paanch phoron (five-spice), a combination
of five different whole spices (cumin, fennel, fenugreek, nigella, and

black mustard), fried and added at the start or finish of cooking as a

wonderful way to flavour each dish and lift it!

Then of course, Bengalis love their fish! And prepare it in so many
ways – steamed or braised, or stewed with greens or other vegetables;

and with sauces that are mustard based or thickened with the paste

of poppy seeds (postho). Fish is cooked almost on a daily basis. And

is a part of virtually every celebration, ritual or festivity. The most

popular ones are salmon, hilsa, bhetki, magur, carp, rui, and prawns.

So where does the quintessential Bengali meal begin? At the markets

of course! You can be sure that every self-respecting Bengali home

will stock up on both vegetables and fish no matter what. Which
is why early mornings are especially reserved for trips to the anaj
bazaar (vegetable market, also for fruit) and the maachher bazaar
(fish market). Both markets are usually open air ones and simply

32| INSPIRING JOURNEYS 2016

A Bite of India

bursting at the seams!

The kitchen (ranna bari) of a traditional Bengali home is witness
to plenty of activity, labour, attention to detail, and of course some

amount of culinary talent and ingenuity! Here are some cooking

styles you may see if you happen to dine at a Bengali home:

Ambal: A tangy dish made either with vegetables or with fish.
Tamarind pulp contributes to its tartness.

Bhaja: A fry, either by itself or in batter.

Aloo Postho: Fried potato with poppy seeds Bhapa: Fish or vegetables steamed with oil and spices. A traditional
Maachher jhol: Fish in mustard gravy and classic steaming technique is to wrap the fish in banana leaf –
this lends it a delightfully smoky flavour.

Bhate: Any vegetable, such as potatoes, beans, pumpkins, or even
dal, first boiled whole, and then mashed and seasoned with mustard
oil or ghee, and spices.

Bhuna: Derived from Urdu, the term means frying for a long time
with ground and whole spices over high heat. A technique usually

used for meat.

Chachchari: Mostly a mixed vegetable dish with one or more varieties
of vegetables cut into longish strips, sometimes with the stalks of

leafy greens added, all lightly seasoned with spices like mustard or

poppy seeds and flavoured with a phoron. In other cases, the skin and

bones of large fish like bhetki or chitol can be made into a chachchari

called kanta-chachchari, meaning fish-bone.

Chhanchra: A combination dish made with different vegetables,
portions of fish head, and fish oil.

Chhenchki: Tiny pieces of one or more vegetable, sometimes
even the peels of potatoes, bottle gourd, and pumpkin; usually

flavoured with panch-phoron or whole mustard seeds or black cumin

seeds. Chopped onion and garlic is also used, but hardly any ground

spices.

Dalna: Mixed vegetables or eggs, cooked in a medium thick gravy
seasoned with ground spices, and a dash of ghee.

Dam: This is definitely the legacy of the Mughals! Vegetables,
especially potatoes, or meat, cooked over a covered pot slowly over

low heat, and allowed to simmer.

Ghanto: Different yet complementary vegetables (cabbage,
green peas, potatoes, banana blossom, coconut, chickpeas)
are chopped or finely grated and cooked with both a
phoron and ground spices. Dried pellets of dal (boris) are
often added to the ghanto. Ghee is commonly added at the
end. A non-vegetarian ghanto is made with fish or fish
heads added to vegetables. The famous murighanto is
made with fish heads cooked in a fine variety of rice. Some
ghantos are very dry while others are thick and juicy.

INSPIRING JOURNEYS 2016 |33

A Bite of India

Kasundi: Paste of mustard
and raw mango pulp

Fish balls made from Chital, local fish

Mishti Doi Sandesh Maachher Bazaar

Jhaal: Any hot dish. Spicy hot that is! Made Korma: Again of Urdu origin, meaning meat of sweet and spicy flavours, each of these
with fish or shrimp or crab, first lightly or chicken cooked in a mild yoghurt based distinctive and vibrant. The simplest of meals
fried and then cooked in a light sauce of sauce with ghee instead of oil. A Mughal are elevated to extraordinary culinary levels
ground red chilli or ground mustard and a favourite! through the subtle harmony and integration
flavouring of panch-phoron or black cumin of both its remarkably underplayed
seeds. It is often eaten with a bit of lentils Kasundi: A sharp paste of mustard and raw ingredients AND the unusual seasoning,
poured over rice. mango pulp, used as a dipping sauce. making for an exquisite food experience.

Jhol: A light yet flavourful fish or vegetable Pora: Literally, burnt. Vegetables are And if you’re puzzling over the title, it’s
stew seasoned with ground spices like wrapped in leaves and roasted over a probably time to explain! The sil nora is the
ginger, cumin, coriander, chilli, and turmeric wood or charcoal fire. Some, like eggplant, two-piece grinding stone (for spices). And
with pieces of fish and longish slices of are roasted directly over the flames. The the bladed boti is the remarkable cutting
vegetables. Whole green chillies and green smoked vegetable is then mixed with oil tool (for vegetables and fish). Both have
coriander leaves are added in the end as and spices, and served. been in use for hundreds of years. Both
seasoning. are indispensable and inseparable even
Tarkari: This ubiquitous description is used today. Both are the heroes of the Bengali
Kalia: A rich preparation of fish, meat or in Bengal practically every day. It simply kitchen – the absolute pride and joy of
vegetables that uses much oil and ghee, means cooked vegetables, or even fish and the chef! Fancy kitchen tools may come and
with a sauce usually made from ground vegetables cooked together. go, but some things Bengali will never go
ginger and onion paste, and garom mashla out of fashion. n
(roasted and ground whole spices). Saag: All leafy greens like spinach,
fenugreek, and mustard greens. Shak is
Koftas (or Boras): Ground meat or usually cooked till just wilted, with a dash of
vegetable croquettes bound together oil and nigella seeds to temper.
by spices and/or eggs served alone or in
savoury gravy. Bengali food is all about the perfect blend

34| INSPIRING JOURNEYS 2016



Guest Column India,

so different,
so far, and
yet so easy
to feel at
home!

Samuel with his wife 60 years – that’s my
Margareta Strandberg lasting love story with India!
Amazing – just think so many
changes have happened in this
time, and still my India remains
the same! The traditions, the

festivals, the diversity.

Yes, India is more modern today, to people who have not visited the country a real friend is never easier than in India.
young people dress in jeans, people before. At the beginning of the journey Just immerse yourself in the Indian crowd
are using the Internet and most you feel a slight apprehension; what is and you will feel surrounded by people
people handle a cell phone and still; this untidy, messy, crowded and decidedly who care for you. The Indian tradition to
India remains the same. different place? And then – by the end of take good care of a guest is felt everywhere,
the tour, a feeling of admiration and awe! and especially by a foreign tourist who can
I arrived in Mumbai by ship in 1955 for my rest assured that all care will be taken to
first visit. What an experience to arrive in I have spent my whole adult life spreading make them comfortable. The hospitality
the busy harbour of Bombay, so different the word about India, as a tour operator, business in India is excellent, it is part of
from my home country in Scandinavia. as a teacher and as an author of several tradition!
books on various topics; history, social
In those days information about far away development and politics. My main I am proud to have been part of the travel
countries was rare, so the experience contribution, I feel, has been a field study of industry that has opened up the doors
struck me right at my heart. I stayed with life in Indian villages. Ever since 1955 I have to India and given the opportunity to so
a young Indian couple who introduced me closely followed up on the development of many new people to experience something
to the local customs and also brought me rural life in one particular village in Junagadh unique!
to the countryside, to the villages of India. District, Gujarat, and subsequently made
comparisons with the development in Samuel Strandberg (b. 1929) is a teacher
I became so fascinated with the country several villages all over India. The tendency by profession, a tour operator with his own
that over the next many years I kept coming that can be seen from this survey is clear – company Samuel Travel, and the author of
back. Finally I decided to bring tourists to India is developing and lives are improving more than six books on India. In 2004 he
India – I felt they just had to experience it!! for millions of people. was awarded an honorary doctorate by the
For more than 30 years I organised group Stockholm University for his field studies
tours and many times travelled with the People often ask me “Which part of India on villages in India. Samuel was also the
groups as tour guide of our family business do you like the most?” or “Which place in Deputy Mayor of Stockholm for 9 years, a
Samuel Travel. India do you prefer?” My answer is: it is the position he came to hold following more
people, more than anything, who will make than 30 years of his association with politics
It is such a rewarding feeling to show India you come back again and again! To make in Stockholm. n

36| INSPIRING JOURNEYS 2016

Hotel Feature

Fan Cooled Nicobari Cottages

Barefoot at Havelock

Inspired by the Andamans
The resort takes its inspiration from
Barefoot at Havelock resort is the Andaman Islands – from its rainforest retreat, but the surreal sound
keenly aware that their guests’ unique juxtaposition of primary of waves punctuating birdsong makes
choice of this destination is driven rainforests and white sand beaches, you realise that you are somewhere truly
by a perception of the Andamans and from its unparalleled biodiversity. magical. The resort has deliberately kept its
Islands as one of the last frontiers Guests experience the true Andamans from surroundings as close to its natural state as
of outstanding pristine natural within the resort: the cottages and villas possible. No beach umbrellas, deck chairs or
beauty. Barefoot at Havelock seeks are set amidst 25 acres of rainforest lying hawkers here to detract from the dramatic
to deliver this conception of the behind what Time Magazine dubbed ‘The sweep of soft white sand beach, no jet skis
Andamans within the environs of Best Beach in Asia’. ply offshore to disturb the tranquility of the
the resort. crystal clear lagoon waters; and there is
The resort campus looks and feels like a no visible beachfront development by the
resort, leaving undisturbed the backdrop

INSPIRING JOURNEYS 2016 |37

Hotel Feature

of 200 foot tall buttressed Mahua trees. to earth wellness and beautification. Andaman Villa
This unblemished confluence of ocean, Step into a world of pure bliss and energy
sand, and rainforest completes a Robinson with unique spa therapies combining have ensured that the Andamans are now
Crusoe effect. The resort has followed a western and eastern holistic techniques. considered as a snorkeling and scuba diving
simple mantra: it has been lucky enough to Here you can relax on an altogether hot spot and enthusiasts from all around
be blessed with one of the best locations deeper dimension, as the therapists’ the world make their way to these islands.
on the planet and it would be silly to tinker dexterous fingers massage away the Barefoot Scuba, a PADI five-star IDC Center,
with it. tension, cleanse the body and rejuvenate can help you visit the holy grail of diving in
the spirit. the Andamans: the waters around Barren
Barefoot’s commitment to deliver a Island, an active volcano. But Scuba diving
composite Andaman experience has Activities with Barefoot at is not a sport restricted to the experienced.
ensured they have been rated in The Havelock: Irrespective of whether you can swim or
Guardian as amongst the five best beach not, as long as you are at least 8 years old,
eco-resorts in the world and remain the Although inspired by and seeking to you too can try your hand at scuba diving
No. 1 resort in the Andaman Islands on deliver the true feeling of the Andamans and get addicted for life!
Tripadvisor. within the resort premises, Barefoot
understands that much that is good about Kayaking
Accommodation: the Great Andamans also lies beyond the Havelock Island has an extensive network
resort campus. The in-house activities of mangrove creeks and the best way to
Barefoot at Havelock resort consists of centre ensures you have access to all that explore this is on kayak. Kayaking tours
31 elegantly designed cottages, villas, is magical about the Andamans: from have been carefully designed to be paced
and tented cottages complete with swimming elephants to scuba diving and according to the ability of the kayakers and
spacious interiors, modern amenities, and snorkeling over pristine reefs, kayaking in plenty of breaks ensure you won’t wake up
ensuite bathrooms, constructed using the mangroves, trekking in the rainforest or with sore arms the next day.
environmentally sensitive indigenous simply relaxing on the beach: your holiday
materials, all blending seamlessly with their with Barefoot immerses you in the best of Trekking
surroundings. the Andamans. The team delights in showing you the
various eco-systems of the Andamans from
Oma Spa Snorkeling and Scuba Diving reef to rainforest, and the treks are designed
In Sanskrit, Oma means ‘life giver’. Oma Pristine reefs and enchanting fish life to ensure you can experience all that nature
Spa is based on holistic and natural, back has to offer. You can choose between a walk
and wade trek in the Mangroves, a trek
38| INSPIRING JOURNEYS 2016 through the intertidal zone at a deserted

Hotel Feature

Kayaking Pano Andaman villa interior
Snorkeling and elephant bathing at Havelock Island
beach, a hike through the dense tropical rainforest or
even combine a trek with a mangrove walk culminating
with snorkeling off a reef.

The ultimate wildlife package:
Above & Below with Barefoot and
The Serai

Create an experience that will be etched in your
memory for a very long time to come, by combining
your Andaman trip with a wildlife safari. Embark on
a ten day adventure where you go tiger spotting at
Barefoot’s associate properties The Serai Kabini and
The Serai Bandipur before you fly from Bangalore
and dive into the deep blue waters of the Andamans
to explore its exotic marine life. This is the only package
in India which gives the traveller an unparalleled
wildlife experience both Above & Below; on land
and under water. n

INSPIRING JOURNEYS 2016 |39





Experiences

INDIAHeritage Walksof

The Howrah Walk, Kolkata

Howrah station and Howrah Bridge are
iconic landmarks of Kolkata and symbolic of
the spirit of the city — modern yet old world,
always on the move, yet laidback and utterly
charming.
Experience the wonder of this lovely city the
way thousands of its people do — on foot!

Walk: Start the walk at Akashbani Bhawan (the
All India Radio building), then walk through
the city’s heritage district, seeing the Town
Hall, High Court, State Assembly and the Eden
Gardens cricket stadium, to reach the banks of
the river at Babu Ghat. Take one of the local
ferries to Howrah, and enjoy views of both
Kolkata and Howrah on either side. Get off and
walk to the Howrah station, one of the largest stations in India, and join the crowds as they go in. From here,
walk along the Howrah Bridge back to Kolkata.
At the bottom of the bridge, is the famous wholesale Flower Market. Finish the day with a walk through this
riot of colours and fragrances.

The Charminar Walk, Hyderabad

Since 1591 the majestic Charminar mosque has been the most iconic
monument of Hyderabad and is synonymous with the rich history
and heritage of Hyderabad. The monument is the grand centrepiece
of the old city and sits as the backdrop to the city’s wonderful culture,
and its fantastic food and crafts.

Walk: As you weave your way through the busy, colourful streets of the
old city, you’re transported back to the bygone era of the Nizams. Take
fabulous photographs, eat amazing food, and see the lovely traditional
handicrafts (lac bangles, zardosi embroidery work) — experience
Hyderabad’s heritage and its street life.
Walk by the well-known monuments and landmarks around the
Charminar: begin with the Charminar, then move on to see the Mecca
Masjid, Lad Bazaar, Shahi Jilu Khana, Mehboob Chowk Clocktower,
Homeopathy hospital, Metal market, Chowk mosque, Abdarkhana,
Asman Jah deodi, Khurshid Jah deodi, Iqbal-ud-daulah deodi, and
then finally the Chowmahalla Palace where you can stop to see the
Museum.

42| INSPIRING JOURNEYS 2016

Experiences

The Fort Kochi Walk, Kochi

In ancient times, Kochi (Cochin) was the hub of the spice trade in the Indian
Ocean, and for many centuries, large ships carrying traders and travellers –
the Greeks, Romans, Jews, Arabs, and the Chinese – sailed to this beautiful
port city to do business. From the 15th century onwards, Kochi was colonised
first by the Portuguese, then the Dutch, and eventually by the British — till
1947, when India got her Independence.
The wonderful legacy of Kochi’s diverse, unique and rich history, culture and
heritage can be seen in the influences in Fort Kochi. Exploring the old quarter
of Fort Kochi on foot is the best way to experience it.

Walk: The St Francis Church (India’s oldest European Church) built by the
Portuguese, Fort Immanuel (the Portuguese stronghold), the Dutch Cemetery,
the beautiful Mattanchery Palace (Dutch Palace), the magnificently decorated
16th century Jewish Synagogue in Mattanchery, Vasco House, where Vasco
da Gama is believed to have lived, the Santa Cruz Basilica cathedral, and the
Union Club Building.
Then, walk through the fascinating spice laden lanes of Jew Town, home to Kochi’s Jewish community; see the
lovely old world homes along Bishop’s House road. Next, stroll along the seaside promenade (sunset is best!) and
watch the giant Chinese Fishing Nets that dot the stretch of the coast and are distinctly unique to Kochi.
You can even stop at some of the curio and handicraft shops and art galleries in Fort Kochi. Finish your walk with a
treat at one of the little cafes.

The Vidhan Soudha Walk, Bengaluru

Bengaluru (Bangalore) was founded in the 1500s by Kempe
Gowda, and is today the capital of Karnataka. It is famous
for its pleasant climate, many gardens and old, colonial style
buildings that dot the cityscape.

Walk: Start at the General Post Office (GPO) building, and then
move on to see the Raj Bhavan (the Governor’s Residence),
the Vidhana Soudha (the State Legislature) and Attara Kacheri
(the High Court). Discover the history of these buildings and
the events associated with them. Next, stroll through the lovely
Cubbon Park, seeing some of its interesting landmarks as you walk. Finish with a visit to
the State Museum and the Venkatappa Art Gallery next to it.
You can finally come to a rest with a bite to eat at one of the many cafes nearby.

The Manek Chowk Walk, Ahmedabad

Manek Chowk is Ahmedabad’s biggest, busiest, most colourful and
wonderfully chaotic market — not to be missed! It has lovely
jewellery, fantastic food items, gorgeous textiles, and of course plenty
of fruits and vegetables.

Walk: Walk through this splendid market and experience it all from
morning to evening. A must is the Rani no Hajiro which is known as the
“ladies market” that sells all kinds of things, from costume jewellery to
wedding trousseaus to knick-knacks.
This is a 2-hour walk through the Secretariat area to see the grand
buildings and beautiful gardens that are synonymous with Bangalore.
We will also visit the State Museum and the Venkatappa Gallery.

INSPIRING JOURNEYS 2016 |43



RNI No. DELENG/2015/65820