GROUP 1 KOTA DORIA CRAFT CLUSTER

FACTORS DIFFERENTIATING THE ORIGINAL
KOTA DORIA FROM THE FAKE KOTA DORIA

While looking for the legitimacy of the particular Kota Original Kota Doria Duplicate Kota Doria
Doria product, a few details about the craft should be kept in
mind. It is soft at touch and has a lightweight fabric which is Less finishing More finishing
open textured. The base texture of this saree is a combination of More strength Less strength
silk and cotton yarn. The Silk yarn provides a transparent effect Real zari, gold and silver used Fake zari, gold and silver used
and the Cotton yarn provides the stripes on it. One small check More expensive Less expensive
has 4 micro checks within it, which creates an illusion in the fab- Minimum cost rs.3000 Minimum cost rs.500
ric which happens to be the unique feature of the Kota Doria Sa-
ree. The design done on this saree is not as prominent due to the
checks in the base texture of the fabric. The saree will have a GI
logo which is the special Kota Doria logo made for the sole pur-
pose of separating original Kota Doria from the imitation Kota
Doria.

101

KOTA DORIA AND
ORGANIZATION

• NGOs and Groups associated
with Kota Doria
• Training of Weavers
• Conclusion

102

103

104 Image 71 – women stitching sarees together.

ORGANIZATIONS , NGOS AND GROUPS
ASSOCIATED WITH KOTA DORIA

Aviral Business Solutions (ABS)

ABS, a Mumbai-based management consulting firm, collaborated with the Kota Heritage Society in November 2019 to design and implement a
B2B and B2C e-commerce platform called “Kota Doria: Dhoop Chhaon” to help the weaver community reach out to customers, communicate with
them, and sell their wares.
• Contributed to a start-up company called “Thinking” by writing articles.
• Led a physical verification audit for NTPC - Rihand in Cement and Steel.
• Conducted an internal audit for a pharmaceutical business for the 2019-20 fiscal year.
They developed pricing strategies,balancing firm objectives and customer happiness while managing client relationships with the local community.
They also assess the financial aspects of product development, such as budgets, expenditures, research, and development, for development,
return-on-investment, and profit-loss estimates. Based on understanding the establishment’s goals, identity, design, marketing strategies, and
features, costs, and mark-up factors are all important considerations.

Kota Doria Development Hadauti Foundation (KDHF)

The foundation is a symbol of Kota Doria’s weaving community’s revival, which aims to rehabilitate their craft, match it with modern market needs,
raise quality to new heights, and face the difficulties of the future now. KDHF is made up of people who work in the Kota Doria manufacturing
industry in the Hadauti region. It helps its members by providing welfare, creating a brand, and promoting its products on the market. It was created
as part of the UNIDO (United Nations Industrial Development Organization) Cluster Development Programme and is a non-profit organization
recognized under the Societies Act, 1958.
With the help of the All India Artisans & Craft Workers Association, it has applied for registration of Geographical Indication and Common Trade
Mark (AIACA). All of this is done to ensure that each discerning consumer who purchases this piece of vintage craft receives real handcrafted cloth
of certified quality! With the help of NHDC, the organization is also establishing a raw material bank to assure better quality yarns and dyes for
the region’s weavers.

105

Kota Heritage Society (KHS) Ngo

On September 7, 2007, the Registrar of Societies issued NGO registration number 74, with Paul Foundation as its parent organization.
The KOTA HERITAGE SOCIETY’s chairman is Mr. Jaiwarhdan, and the Chief Functionary Officer is Ms. Victoria Singh. The KOTA HERITAGE
SOCIETY is a Non-Governmental Organization (NGO) in Kota, Rajasthan, with the registration number, R.
Since 2007, the Kota Heritage Society has been looking after and renovating the British Cemetery. In conjunction with the World Oral
Literature Project, they released Tejaji Gatha, a book. They support the weavers of Kota Doria. They put on art shows and activities. In
Rajasthan, they are conducting a government survey on the educational situation of nomadic tribes

All India Artisans And Craftworkers Welfare Association (AIACA)

Through the facilitation of business support services, skill enhancement, design innovation, and effective organization management,
AIACA has been working in Kota with the mission of enabling the Kota Women Weavers Organisation (KWWO), a registered society
of more than a thousand women weavers belonging to the Ansari community, to have better access to market share and profit. The
purpose is to ensure that rural women handloom weavers have a stable and dignified existence. The famed fabric of Kota Doria is made
in Kethun, a small town on the outskirts of the city of Kota in southern Rajasthan. The check on this pretty fabric, which is a blend of
silk and cotton, is unique.

Indian Institute Of Rural Development (IIRD)

The IIRD (Indian Institute of Rural Development), founded in 1994, is a non-profit voluntary organization to improve the well-being of
Rajasthan’s rural people.
The Indian Institute of Rural Development (IIRD) was established to ensure that the poorest people in India have equal opportunities
in terms of health, education, economic empowerment, and political involvement allow them to live dignified lives. IIRD implements
integrated programs in Rajasthan villages for the uplift and economic development of rural stakeholders, as well as backward and
forward connections to the rural economy.
The objective of IIRD is-
To encourage the development of high-quality human resources through community cooperation.
To increase access to crucial services for the underserved, particularly women, in society.
To establish the Institute as a regional hub for development planning, administration, and assessment.
To collaborate with like-minded organizations in the public, business, and development sectors.
106

Kota Women Weavers Organization (KWWO)

The Rajasthan government established the Kota Women Weavers Organization (KWWO) to strive for the development of Kota Doria.
The organizations work under the guiding principle of promoting and preserving the Kota Doria craft and its weavers. They presently
employ 400 women weavers and are based in Kaithun, which is 18 kilometers from Kota City.

RuralNon-Farm Development Authority (RUDA)

In the villages of Kethun, Mangrol, Roteda, and Siswali in the Kota/Baran districts, RUDA has been implementing an integrated
Cluster Development Project financed by the Rajasthan government for Kota Doria handloom sarees. RUDA has made several steps
to help these handloom weavers become more technologically advanced. In 2006-07, with the support of foreign designers, a new
line of Kota Doria items was created. RUDA put on a fantastic fashion display to showcase this product line. Kota Doria handloom
cloth, Sanganer Hand Block Printed Textiles, and Bagru Hand Block Printed Textiles have all been geographically registered thanks
to RUDA’s efforts.
To increase access to crucial services for the underserved, particularly women, in society.
To establish the Institute as a regional hub for development planning, administration, and assessment.
To collaborate with like-minded organisations in the public, business, and development sectors.

107

TRAINING THE WEAVERS

Some Welfare Schemes for Handloom Weavers: Image 72- weavers getting trained from experts.
1- Handloom Weavers’ Comprehensive Welfare Scheme (HWCWS)
2- National Handloom Development Programme (NHDP)
3- Comprehensive Handloom Cluster Development Scheme (CHCDS)
4- Yarn Supply Scheme (YSS)
The AIACA provides skill enhancement, support services, design in-
novation for boosting creativity and organization management training for
the artisans. It also has been working on the mission of enabling the Kota
Women Weavers Organization (KWWO) which is a registered society of
more than a thousand women weavers belonging to the Ansari community,
to have better access to market share and profit. Artisans can also opt for
private training outside the societies and organizations.
While Kota was allowed the GI, UNIDO moved toward the Rajasthan Ur-
ban Development Authority (RUDA) (a body of the state organization of
Rajasthan overseeing nation non-cultivate progression) to band alongside
them. RUDAEs command consolidates the progression of bunches of crafts-
men and agriculturists and the constraint working of handloom weavers and
their financial change. RUDA maintains UNIDO in instructing the Weav-
ers Association on managing the application for GI enrollment. RUDA has
worked personally with the weavers, expert weavers, brokers, and other gov-
ernment bodies to educate them approximately the preferences of Gls. It has
held training on traces, trade organization workshops, courses, and events
related to the KDHF and the women weavers affiliation, in Rajasthan as well
as in other metropolitan zones of India.

108

CONCLUSION

This study has found that a lot has to be done for the Kota Doria weavers by the government and the consumers to protect the interests of the Kota
Doria weavers. From their Health issues to their income problems, all need certain policies and support from consumers to help the Kota Doria weav-
ers to achieve a better lifestyle.
Demand for these authentic sarees had been increasing up until the pandemic, since many weavers don’t have experience with selling on the internet
or know how to use it, their sales have been low and inventories filled with stock which does not help with buying further raw materials for their craft.
The hand-woven GI marked sarees are always sold at a much higher rate than the unmarked ones or the ones from a power loom. This study also has
in-depth details about how the sarees are made and what exactly they look like with all their variations hence providing a difference between real and
fake Kota Doria.
The study concludes that a higher demand, proper advertising for the craft, educating the weavers with modern technology and a few government pol-
icies to protect their interest could make a great change in the crafts industry and give the well-deserving Kota Doria weavers a better lifestyle.

109

ARTISANS
PROFILE

110

111

Artisan’s Name - Md. Aslam Ansaari

Contact Number - +919024171716

Address - Ward no.6 Kaithun, near Imaam Chowk
Kota Rajasthan.

Age - 44

Sex – Male

Level of Education - College

Languages known - Hindi, Harauti

Family members;

Md. Kasim Ansaari - father
Sayira Bano - mother
Tasleem Bana - wife
Shirin Bano - daughter
Sanavar Hussain - Son

Md Aslam Ansari Ji is a 44-year-old masterweaver from Kaithun who has been working with the age-old craft of Kota Doria that
has been passed down in his family for more than half a century. He was introduced to the team via video conferencing and became com-
fortable with us in an instant. Inheriting the skill of making Kota Doria from his father, he embarks upon the importance of one’s culture
and loyalty towards the traditions that make one’s identity. His journey as a professional weaver began when he fully joined the family
craft after graduating from college and now supports his family of six by devoting himself to the craft throughout the year.

112

He is an independent masterweaver who mostly creates his own motifs and designs but has vast connections with other
weavers, designers, graphers, dyers and equipment manufacturers. Md. Aslam Ji remains the busiest during the wedding season,
Navaratri, Diwali, Dussehra, Makar Sankranti but is helped by his family especially his daughter, Ms Shirin Bano and wife Ms Tasl-
eem Bana who are trained in weaving.
Md. Aslam Ji only produces sarees but adopted new materials as according to him these are demanded in the market and
gives a chance to creatively improvise designs. In order to improve his skills, he received special training from Bunkar Seva Kendra,
Ajmer Road Jaipur and wishes to attend more in the future. Md. Aslam Ji’s devotion to his craft did make his business flourish but
has taken a toll on his health; yet he fails to give up.
He procures raw materials from the nearby markets and sells the finished Kota Doria saree to the local markets, directly
to customers, melas, festivals, dealers, agents, trade fairs and even exports to other regions. Currently, he is inclined to the idea
of marketing his products via the internet and social media as these mediums will resolve major supply chain issues. He does use
WhatsApp to sell Kota Doria but wishes to get trained in marketing for growing his business.
Md Aslam Ji speaks highly of Kota Doria and hopes the craft lives in these trying times of the Pandemic outbreak amidst
which many families of Kaithun went completely unemployed. He is coping up with the present market scenario, cut-throat com-
petition and ill health but besides that, he is making sure to pass down his skill to his children.
Md Aslam Ji was kind enough to share his wisdom about the craft with our team, cleared our doubts irrespective of the number of
times we asked and just because of this we were able to learn about this exquisite craft.

113

Artisan’s Name - Ms Shehnaaz Bano

Contact Number - +91935122685

Address - Kethun in front of Imam Chowk Kota
Rajasthan.

Age - 33

Sex - Female
Level of Education - Secondary
Languages known - Hindi, Harauti

Ms Shehnaaz Bano is a weaver in Kethun and just like most of the families of this village, she was taught the art of weaving Kota
Doria fabric by her family. Just like her, most of the weavers in her village are women. They learned about the process at a very young
age by observing their elders who would let them operate the loom and because of that, they become skilled weavers in their late teenage
years. Before her marriage, her family owned 4 looms as she helped her father run the business and after she got married she started
earning along with her family of 8 members out of which 3 females and 5 males participate in the craft.
Ms Shehnaaz Bano spends her full day weaving along with taking care of the household claiming that the loom is in motion
throughout the year. Apart from being a weaver Ms Bano is also the treasurer of a women's cooperative called Kota Women's Weavers
Organization (KWWO) and has worked with The All India Artisans and Craftworkers Welfare Association (AIACA) from 2014-16 on a
Project named – Go in Green. She also worked with ABF (Axis Bank Foundation) in 2017. Thus Ms Shehnaaz is a new age weaver who
is aware of the advancements and cherishes every opportunity that breathes life into Kota Doria’s bright future.
She fondly talks of her brother who is into the marketing of this craft and is helping many craftsmen to have a better knowledge of the
market for an improved seller’s perspective. According to her, the internet and skill training have opened new horizons for the weavers.
Owing to her insightful knowledge, our team was able to achieve in-depth knowledge of the processes of making the Kota Doria fabric.
114

Artisan’s Name - Ms Dilfroz Bano


Contact Number - +91935122685


Address - Kaithun in front of Imam Chowk Kota
Rajasthan.


Age - 27


Sex - Female

Level of Education - College IGNOU University
Languages known - Hindi, Harauti, English

Ms. Dilfroz Bano Ji is a new age skilled weaver who practices the craft of making Kota Doria along with adapting to social and
technological advancements. She graduated from IGNOU University and knows how to use computers and the internet.
As cooperatives and Self Help Groups( SHG’s) were coming forward to expand Kota Doria’s business, Ms. Dilforez participated in all the
offered artisan training in order to become a refined and informed weaver and a seller. She is the president of Kota Women's Weavers
Organization (KWWO) and has worked with The All India Artisans and Craftworkers Welfare Association (AIACA) from 2014-16 on a
Project named – Go in Green as well as ABF (Axis Bank Foundation) in 2017.
Ms. Dilfroz took a step forward to expand her business by exploring new raw materials, switching to internet marketing and di-
versifying the product range from Kota Doria sarees to Dupattas and suits as well. Owing to such upgrades, she now earns more than
Rs. 10,000 per month and is able to have a better life.

115

THE TEAM

Ms. Anusha Arun Abisha Gomez Viju Aniket Rajpoot Dakshita Deshmukh
Assistant Professor, Student, Department of Student, Department of Student, Department of
Department of Fashion
Fashion Design Fashion Design Fashion Design
Design Semester 5 Semester 5 Semester 5
NIFT Jodhpur
NIFT, Jodhpur NIFT, Jodhpur NIFT, Jodhpur

Gauri Verma Pankaj Doley Smriti Dhankhar Tripti Badlani
Student, Department of Student, Department of Student, Department of Student, Department of

Fashion Design Fashion Design Fashion Design Fashion Design
Semester 5 Semester 5 Semester 5 Semester 5

NIFT, Jodhpur NIFT, Jodhpur NIFT, Jodhpur NIFT, Jodhpur

116

ANNEXURE

1- For how many years has the craft been practiced by your fami-
ly? 18 - If yes, have the new raw materials made your products more
2 - Is someone from your family participate in the making of this profitable?
19 -Which of the factors do you think can help boost your busi-
craft? ness right now?
3- How many hours in a week do you approximately spend work- 20 - Have you received any training recently for upgrading your
ing on your craft? skills?
4- What season do you think is the most profitable for sales? 21 - Do you think the training helps your business grow?
5-. Has there been a change in the location or area of the craft?
6- Are you a member of any of the following organizations? 22 - Do you think you will require extra training to help you?
7- Are you planning to train your children in your traditional 23 - Are you familiar with the technology (Phones/ Computers)
craft practices? used these days?
8- How much monthly sales do you manage to generate/ How 24 - Who calculates and decides the prices for your products?
many products’ worth do you sell in a month 25 - Do you think your pricing is reasonable?
9- Do you have a saving account in the bank ? 26 - Where do you usually purchase your raw material from?
10- When have you purchased or rented this house? 27 - Are there any hurdles in buying of raw materials?
11- Type of House 28 - How do you think this problem can be solved?
12- Do you face ay health difficulties due to the craft? 29 -Do you receive any help from the government for purchasing
13- Do you have health/ life insurance policy? the required raw materials?
14 - Who provides the design structure?) 30 -How do you usually sell your products?
15 - Has there been an adoption of new techniques in develop- 31 - Are you facing any difficulties in promoting your products?
ment of craft?
16 - Have you made or added any new products to the existing
ones recently? If yes then how would you describe it/ them?
17 - Have you come across any new raw material which is not typi

cally used for your products?

117

GLOSSARY

A • Choli- A Choli is a blouse or a bodice-like upper gar- H
• Aad- It is a Rajsathani square or rectangular ment that is commonly cut short leaving the midriff • Hatta- Warping peddle with 25 eyes
choker with Pearl and Kundan. bare.
• Angarkha- A kind of robe characterized by an • Chunri- It is a tie and dye technique practised on an J
inner panel that covers the chest
B Bana- Warp odhni/dupatta • Jaal- An arrangement of motifs in which they are
Bajre ki raab- It is a drink with Indian pearl millet spread all over a specified area on the fabric.
• and jaggery. D
• Bajre- Pearl Millet • Jaala- A weaving technique for weaving intricate
• Bajubandh- Armlets • Dal Bati churma- A popular dish in Rajasthan made designs.
• Balis- Earlobes studs that crystal beaded of daal (dried, split pulses) and baati(unleavened
• Bandhej- Bandhani is a type of tie-dye textile dec- bread) • Jadau- A technique of jewellery-making wherein
• orated by plucking the cloth with the fingernails precious gemstones are embedded into gold.
into many tiny bindings that form a figurative • Dhaage- Thread
• design. • Dhoop Chhawn- (sunlight and shade) (here) a type • Jajams- It is a printing style of Chittorgarh, a city in
• Bangadi- Bangles Rajasthan state
Bedia- It is a unique brush made up of a special of Kota Doria with different coloured weft and warp
• kind of coniferous leaves found exclusively in yarns • Jamawar - It is an exquisitely intricate embroidery
• Kashmir. • Dhoti- It is a long piece of fabric tied around the • Judai – Aprocess of manual knotting also known as
• Besan- Gram flour waist and wrapped like a loin-cloth between the
Bichuwa - Toe rings legs. Piecing.
• Bore- These are bamboo sticks used in a bunch of • Dhurrie/ Durrie- it is a thick and flat hand-woven • Juttis /Mojaris- They are leather shoes made up of
• four during the preparation of wrap for putting rug that Indians use to cover the floor to sit or sleep
lease on. sheep, camel or goat skin, complete with intricate
C Buhari- Broom made with wild grass for applying • Dori – A thread made by combining several fine embroidery and embellishments
starch on the wrap. yarns
Bunkars- Weavers K
F
• Kaanbali/ Surliya- Rajasthani earrings
• Fani- Wooden Reed with either wooden teeth or • Kachori- It is a spicy deep-fried snack made with
stainless steel teeth
all-purpose flour or whole wheat flour and having a
• Firozi- Turquoise colour rich filling.
• Kadia- It is a creel used for making a wrap with a
G capacity of 50 Bobbins.
• Kamadi- Bamboo sticks
• Gatte ki sabji- Curry of cooked gram flour dump- • Kanchli- just like Choli, Kanchli is a blouse worn by
lings (Gatte) married women in most of the Rajasthani commu-
nities
• Ghagra- It is a long full skirt, often decorated with • Kandi- Small hollow wooden pirns for the weft
• Chakki- (or Barfi) is a popular Indian sweet made • Kanguraa- Zigzag lines on Kota Doria sarees
of Chickpea Flour and Ghee. embroidery, mirrors, or bells • Kanpatti A wooden bar that feeds the finished cloth
• Ghee- Clarified butter
• Charkhas- spinning wheel • Gulali choodha- A set of red bangles are worn on the to the cloth beam and wounds onto it.
• Chattai- A mat • Kathputl- Rajasthnai wooden puppet
• Chikan- It is a traditional embroidery style wedding day • Khaadi- Hand spun and a woven natural fibre cloth

118

• Khat- It is a square check pattern consisting of 8 • Mothra- An extension of the Leheriya where two • Reza- Coarse cloth woven by the village weaver
cotton and 6 silk yarns in both warp and weft that sets of diagonal lines cross each other creating small directly from raw cotton
are interlaced in a definite arrangement. rectangular spaces resembling moth (pulses), which • S
• Khichdi- One of the most basic dishes made up of a are located between the checks • Safa- A Safa is short and broad Rajasthani turban
combination of rice and lentils. • Multani mitti- Fuller’s Earth • Saree- A long strip of unstitched cloth which is
• Kundan – A traditional Indian gem and is used in draped by Indian women
heavy pieces of jewellery. • Sat- Sat means weight in Kaithoon
• Kurti - A long-sleeved bodice worn over the kanchli N • Scatt border – A pattern having motif gradation
• Narangi- Orange colour
with the ghagra in terms of size all over the body of the Kota Doria
fabric.
L • Nathani- Nosepins • Sev- It is a popular Indian snack food consisting of
small pieces of crunchy noodles made from chick-
• Laal maas- Meat that is red when raw that includes O Odhni- Veil • pea flour paste
lamb, beef, pork and some others Ooni colours – Salt based dyes Sinduri – Scarlet colour
• Suae – Big iron needles
• Lac- natural resin secreted by a tiny insect collected • Pagri - Turban or headgear •
from trees Papad ki sabji- Curry of fried Papad (Indian wafer) Tagdi/ Kardhani- Belly or waist chains which usual-
P Pattus- It is a span of woollen material worn by T ly made of gold Polki and even Kundan
• Lacchi- Hanks Tamatar- Tomatoes
• Lal - (here) Red colour • • Tana- Weft
• Leheria- It is a traditional style of tie-dye a type of • Tie-dye- It is a technique that produces patterns in
• womenfolk like a shawl and is woven in the Western • (a garment or piece of cloth) by tying parts of it with
resist dyeing technique practised in Rajasthan Rajasthan region. threads to shield it from the dye.
• Lehengas- A form of ankle-length skirt • Payal- Anklets • Tillis - Spindles
• Leheriya A traditional style of tie-dye practised in • •
• Peela- Yellow colour
Rajasthan, India that results in brightly coloured Pinjara- it is a wooden frame creel on which the
cloth with distinctive patterns especially zigzag or • feeding bobbins are fitted
irregular colour stripes. Pyjama- A leg garment •

M
• Maas- Meat V
• Mandi- A mixture of rice paste and locally grown R Raanch- Heddle/ Heald
• wild onion found in Kota Rabdi-A sweet, condensed-milk-based dish • Vada- Deep fried savoury snack mostly made with
• Mathania Mulmul- Fine muslin produced in Matha- • Rajasthani Razai – It is a high-quality silk quilt lentils, spices and herbs
• nia, a village in Jodhpur district of Rajasthan • Rakhdi/ borla- Maang tikka
• Mawa- A dairy food • Rangoli- (here) Multi-coloured dyed variety of Kota W
• Mirchi- Chilli • Doria sarees.
Mohan Maas- One of the most famous Rajasthani • Rani - (here) Pink colour • Wajan- Weight
non-vegetarian dishes • Rani Haar- It is a long necklace that reaches the
Moong dal ka halwa- A sweet and dense confection • belly button Z
with green gram dal as its key ingredient
• Zari- A thread made of metals, traditionally fine
gold & silver

119

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