jluv

I THE UK’S #1 TRAVEL MAGAZINE

UK EDITION // SEPT/OCT 2020 // £4.95 NATIONALGEOGRAPHIC.CO.UK/TRAVEL

ITA LY
FROM UNSUNG CITIES & HIDDEN RETRE ATS TO
DESERTED COA STAL ROADS & LOCAL ARTISANS,
DISCOVE R ITALY ’ S LE SSE R KNOWN AT TR AC TIONS

KENYA BIG SLEEP AWARDS

Walking with lions: crossing THE WORLD’S BEST NEW
the Maasai Mara’s wildest HOTELS, SELECTED BY OUR
conservancies on foot
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INDIA
Celtic ruins, Arthurian legends
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ALSO: BUFFALO // CAPPADOCIA // KUALA LUMPUR // LAUSANNE // OSAKA // ZIMBABWE

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Sept/Oct
2020

Contents

74

74 Italy 104 Kenya 128 Osaka Issue 87

From artisan villages to epic An intrepid walking safari To get a true taste of Japan’s Sunset over Positano, on
road trips, we explore the reveals the natural complexities party city, beat a trail around its the Amalfi Coast, Italy.
country’s less-visited corners of the Mara conservancies booming beer scene IMAGE: Getty

92 Wales 118 India 138 Palma Sept/Oct 2020 9

Local legends, dramatic scenery Each year, the Braj region Sun-dappled squares and
and good conversation await explodes into a riot of colour secluded beaches — the living is
along the Coastal Way for the Holi festival easy in the Majorcan capital

I NATIONAL GEOGR APHIC TR AVELLER IS THE UK’S #1 TR AVEL MAGAZINE BY SUBSCRIPTIONS

Sept/Oct
2020

Contents

27 48 54

SMART TRAVELLER 37 Stay at home TRAVEL GEEKS

17 Snapshot Rocks and rambles in Nidderdale 166 Travel Geeks

In for the chop in Hoi An 39 The word The experts’ travel manual

18 Big picture Six of the best new reads inspired by nature GET IN TOUCH

A song and dance in French Polynesia 41 Competition 174 Subscriptions

21 Making a splash Win a four-night penthouse stay in Cornwall Make the most of our latest offer

The new underwater museum with a mission 43 Author series 177 Inbox

22 Outside the box Irene Sabatini on Zimbabwe Your letters, emails and tweets

Head outdoors for your art fix this autumn 44 Meet the adventurer 178 Your pictures

25 The wow factor We speak to record-breaker Jessica Nabongo This month’s best travel photos

Raise a glass to these wine-centric wonders 46 Online DON'T MISS

27 Food Highlights from the website 146 Big Sleep Awards 2020

A taste of Sichuan’s fiery cuisine INSIDER All hail the trendsetters of the hotel world

29 On the trail 48 Weekender: Cappadocia 176 Events

Coimbra’s lavish art and architecture Adventure and history entwine in Turkey Join us and our experts for a lively
panel discussion
31 Rooms 54 Eat: Buffalo

Design-focused digs in Aarhus Not just the home of the eponymous wings

32 Family 61 Neighbourhood: Mexico City

The perfect family escape in Windermere From high-end bars to raucous markets

34 Inside guide 66 Sleep: Kuala Lumpur

Getting cultural in lakeside Lausanne Affordable luxury in the Malaysian capital

GO ONLINE VISIT NATIONALGEOGR APHIC.COM/ TR AVEL FOR NE W TR AVEL FE ATURE S DAILY

10 nationalgeographic.co.uk/travel

Surrounded by its
marvellous scene,

THE OMNIA,

remain never to be
forgotten.

This is THE OMNIA.

Michelin-starred cuisine
THE OMNIA, Zermatt – Switzerland, Phone +41 27 966 71 71, www.the-omnia.com

Contributors National Geographic Traveller (UK) APL Media

Jessica Nabongo Editorial Director: Maria Pieri Editorial Manager:
Editor: Pat Riddell Jo Fletcher-Cross
I’ve always been inspired by curiosity. Deputy Editor: Stephanie Cavagnaro Contributing Editor:
I just have a strong desire to see the (maternity leave) Farida Zeynalova
differences and similarities in how people Acting Deputy Editor: Amelia Duggan Project Editor:
live, even here at home. I put a lot of trust in Executive Editor: Glen Mutel Mattie Lacey-Davidson
strangers, and I believe you can travel solo Associate Editors: Editorial Admin Assistant:
anywhere. MEET THE ADVENTURER P.44 Sarah Barrell, Nicola Trup Angela Locatelli
Commissioning Editor: Art Editor:
Ben Lerwill Connor McGovern Lauren Atkinson-Smith
Section Editor: Tamsin Wressell Picture Editor: Olly Puglisi
During my time on the Mara conservancies, Project Editor: Zane Henry Production Controllers:
I was struck by the endless horizons and the Online Editor: Josephine Price Karl Martins, Joe Mendonca,
richness of life. Africa conservation efforts (maternity leave) Drew O’Neill, Lisa Poston,
have experienced major setbacks in recent Assistant Online Editor: Nora Wallaya Anthony Wright
years, but hopefully this project will be a Content Editor:
long-term force for good. KENYA P.104 Charlotte Wigram-Evans Head of Commercial Strategy:
Head of Sub Editors: Hannah Doherty Chris Debbinney-Wright
Julia Buckley Sub Editors: Chris Horton, Ben Murray APL Business Development Team:
Operations Manager: Chris Dalton, Adam Fox, Cynthia
I’ve always gone to Wales for the Seamus McDermott Lawrence, Sinead McManus
landscapes and the history, but from now Head of Events: Natalie Jackson
on I’ll be going back just for the people. Art Director: Becky Redman Chief Executive: Anthony Leyens
From impromptu Welsh lessons to in-depth Senior Designer: Lauren Gamp Managing Director:
discussions on local gins, they taught me so Designer: Kelly McKenna Matthew Jackson
much. WALES P.92 Production Manager: Daniel Gregory Sales Director: Alex Vignali
Office Manager: Hayley Rabin
Prabir Mitra Special Projects Consultant: Sales Administrator: Melissa Jurado
Matthew Midworth Head of Finance: Ryan McShaw
Colours galore and like nothing I’ve Head of Partnerships: William Allen Credit Manager: Craig Chappell
ever seen — that’s the Holi festival. I Partnerships Manager, Events: Accounts Manager: Siobhan Grover
was immersed in a jubilant rainbow Daniel McGeehan Accounts Assistant:
as I celebrated it with the locals in the Sales & Partnerships Team: Jana Abraham
Braj region of North India. Definitely an James Bendien, Bob Jalaf,
experience of a lifetime. INDIA P.118 Kevin Killen, Gabriela Milkova,
Adam Phillips, Mark Salmon,
Helen Warwick Euan Whitbourn
Head of National Geographic
The Palma lifestyle takes some beating, Traveller — The Collection:
from a morning coffee with sublime views Danny Pegg
to a jog along the coast or a dip in the sea
— even in December. And eating out here, National Geographic Traveller (UK) is published by APL Media Limited,
on any day of the week, is a joy, too — if you Unit 310, Highgate Studios, 53-79 Highgate Road, London NW5 1TL
know where to look. PALMA P.138 nationalgeographic.co.uk/travel
Editorial T: 020 7253 9906. [email protected]
12 nationalgeographic.co.uk/travel Sales/Admin T: 020 7253 9909. F: 020 7253 9907. [email protected]
Subscriptions T: 01293 312 166. [email protected]

National Geographic Traveller (UK) is published by APL Media Ltd under license from National
Geographic Partners, LLC. For more information contact natgeo.com/info. Their entire
contents are protected by copyright 2020 and all rights are reserved. Reproduction without
prior permission is forbidden. Every care is taken in compiling the contents of the magazine,
but the publishers assume no responsibility in the effect arising therefrom. Readers are
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liability for views expressed, pictures used or claims made by advertisers.

National Geographic Partners International Publishing

Chairman: Gary E. Knell Senior Vice President: Yulia P. Boyle
Editorial Director: Susan Goldberg Senior Director: Ariel Deiaco-Lohr
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Editors: CHINA Sophie Huang;
CZECHIA Ondrej Formanek; FRANCE
Gabriel Joseph-Dezaize; GERMANY
Werner Siefer; HUNGARY Tamas
Vitray; INDIA Lakshmi Sankaran;
ISRAEL Daphne Raz; ITALY Marco
Cattaneo; SOUTH KOREA Bo-yeon
Lim; LATIN AMERICA Claudia Muzzi;
NETHERLANDS Arno Kantelberg;
POLAND Agnieszka Franus; ROMANIA
Catalin Gruia; RUSSIA Ivan Vasin; SPAIN
Josan Ruiz; TURKEY Nesibe Bat

Copyright © 2020 National Geographic Partners, LLC. All Rights Reserved. National
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National Geographic Society and used under license. Printed in the UK.

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Editor’s Coronavirus
letter
The ongoing pandemic continues
T ravel, once again, is within our grasp; albeit subject to affect travel. Please note,
to restrictions. Many of you may have ventured prices are subject to change.
overseas when travel corridors to ‘safe’ nations Contact your travel provider for
were announced; many of you may have had your trips cut the most up-to-date information.
short by the quarantine measures that followed; and many For the latest news on safe travel
of you will — like me — have simply been taking the and border restrictions, visit
opportunity to spend time exploring the UK. fco.gov.uk

But while the conditions governing travel remain, shall DON’T MISS
we say, precarious, Italy will always be a fixture on our
wishlist. With its wealth of off-the-beaten track treasures Photography Competition 2020
and unsung regions, there’s never been a better time to
beat the crowds. We’ve whittled down thousands of entries
across four categories to find our winners.
From road trips along the deserted coast of Puglia to Head to nationalgeographic.co.uk/travel to see
exploring Neapolitan neighbourhoods and the coolest which shots wowed our judges most
aperitivo spots in Turin, we’ve got the lowdown on the
nation’s lesser-known attractions this issue. Whether SUBSCRIBE TODAY
you’re a first-timer or a long-time Italy aficionado, our
cover story will make those alluring shores seem all the
more closer.

As ever, we’re here to inspire, tempt, and fire up your
curiosity for the world around you. So indulge yourself,
remember this situation is temporary, and lose yourself
in travel memories yet to be made.

PAT RIDDELL, EDITOR

@patriddell
@patriddell

AWARD WINNING NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC TRAVELLER Get three issues for just £5!

Visit USA Media Awards 2020: Best Consumer Travel Magazine Feature • British Travel Awards 2019: Best natgeotraveller.
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AITO Young Travel Writer of the Year 2019 • French Travel Media Awards 2019: Best Art & Culture Feature •
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Media Awards 2018: Best Consumer Travel Magazine Feature • BSME Talent Awards 2018: Best Designer •
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14 nationalgeographic.co.uk/travel

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SMART TRAVELLER

What’s new // Food // On the trail // Rooms // Family // Inside guide // Stay at home // The word

SNAPSHOT

Hoi An, Vietnam

Strolling down the narrow alleys of Hoi An in
central Vietnam is like travelling back in time:
ragged, colourful buildings, wooden bridges
and, in many streets, no traffic at all. This old
town has, despite a massive influx of tourism,
managed to preserve its original charms and
appearance. This also goes for its friendly vibe,
too. Take this hairdresser I encountered during
a visit some years ago: he was humorously
insisting on giving me a hair cut, even though
it was obvious my head was shaved. For me,
his happy face, smiling through the green
curtains of his open shop window, reflects
the spirit and soul of this spectacular city.
ROGER BORGELID // PHOTOGRAPHER

borgelid.se
@rogerborgelid

Sept/Oct 2020 17

SMART TRAVELLER

GRAND PRIZE WINNER

PHOTOGRAPHY

COMPETITION 2020

18 nationalgeographic.co.uk/travel

SMART TRAVELLER

BIG PICTURE

Marquesas Islands,
French Polynesia

The grand prize winner of this year’s National
Geographic Traveller Photography Competition
was snapped by Hadriel Torres at the Matavaa O
Te Henua Enana arts festival, held on the remote
Marquesas Islands. The celebration of local music,
dance and crafts showcases the lively traditions
of this Pacific archipelago, attracting delegations
from all six inhabited islands, as well as tourists.
Here, the Haka (a ceremonial dance of powerful
gestures and stamping) is performed by the
local dance group on the small island of Ua Pou
while awaiting the arrival of the neighbouring
islands’ canoes. The shot, entered into our ‘People’
category, was selected as the overall competition
winner from more than 4,500 entries.
HADRIEL TORRES // PHOTOGRAPHER

@hadriel_torres_photography
V IEW THE FINALISTS ACROSS ALL FOUR CATEGORIES
— PEOPLE, NATURE, CITIES AND LANDSCAPES — AT
NATIONALGEOGRAPHIC.CO.UK/TRAVEL

Sept/Oct 2020 19

It’s time.

w w w.d o m e s re s o r t s .c o m

WHAT’S NEW

AUSTRALIA

MAKING A

SPLASH

A new opening on the Great Barrier
Reef is set to unite Aboriginal culture
and coral conservation

At first glance, it seems like a tsunami has flooded Sculptures at the Museum
Pompeii, but it’s all part of the eye-catching Coral of Underwater Art
Greenhouse — the latest creation from British sculptor
Jason deCaires Taylor, for Australia’s new Museum of
Underwater Art (MOUA).

Located in Townsville, Queensland, the museum is
an ambitious installation of four exhibits that blur the
line between marine science and art. The aim is to both
showcase some of the less-frequented sections of the
Great Barrier Reef, and shine a spotlight on Aboriginal
culture, with the museum’s opening coinciding with the
state’s 2020 Year of Indigenous Tourism.

DeCaires Taylor and his team have worked closely with
the local Wulgurukaba traditional owners to develop
exhibits that create new environments for marine life
while also reflecting ancestral stories from the area.

Travellers can book a diving expedition to see the
Coral Greenhouse up close, swimming down a sunken
boulevard of man-made floating trees and exploring the
surrounding coral gardens. The 165-ton structure has
been designed to attract new corals and will, ultimately,
be absorbed into the John Brewer Reef.

On terra firma, the 13ft-high, colour-changing Ocean
Siren sculpture can be admired from Townsville’s
waterfront. Another two installations are in development
for 2021, too, including a proposed semi-submerged
gigantic head off Magnetic Island. Half of the sculpture
will be painted by local artists with stories of the
Dreamtime (the Aboriginal retelling of Creation).

The final installation, due to be completed by
December 2021, will see divers mingling with
100 underwater statues, each immortalising real
Wulgurukaba people, standing in silent congress off the
shore of Palm Island. oua.com.au JUSTIN MENEGUZZI

THREE WAYS TO DISCOVER ABORIGINAL CULTURE

BY BOAT ON FOOT BY SCUBA
Hop aboard a 100-year-old, 58ft ketch sailboat Kuku Yalanji country is the only place where Dreamtime Dive & Snorkel allows travellers
for an adventure along the Mooloolaba canals the Daintree Rainforest meets the Great to join Aboriginal sea rangers on a snorkelling
with Saltwater Eco Tours. This Aboriginal- Barrier Reef. Join an Aboriginal guide with day tour to two sites on the outer Great Barrier
owned tour company visits important cultural Walkabout Cultural Adventures to learn about Reef. Learn how traditional owners harvested
sites of the Kabi Kabi people. From A$55 (£30). native plant medicine. From A$180 (£100) for the reef before European settlers arrived.
saltwaterecotours.com.au half-day tours. walkaboutadventures.com.au From A$199 (£110). dreamtimedive.com

Sept/Oct 2020 21

SMART TRAVELLER

Works by Anish Kapoor SCULPTURE PARKS
at Houghton Hall
RIGHT FROM TOP: GO FIGURE

Yorkshire Sculpture Park;
Renoir Walk, Guernsey

ART OUTDOORS The YORKSHIRE SCULPTURE PARK
is welcoming back visitors with its
OUTSIDE world-beating collection of more
than 80 sculptures, which currently
THE BOX
includes important loans from
Get your culture fix with artists Ai Weiwei, Damien Hirst and
these new UK walking Joana Vasconcelos. Be sure to book
tours, exhibitions and
installations — all without a ticket for an allocated time in
stepping into a gallery advance. In Edinburgh, meanwhile,
JUPITER ARTLAND — the expansive
NORFOLK residency. The brief: to create bright outdoor gallery established in the IMAGES: PETE HUGGINS; GETTY; ART FOR GUERNSEY
public art that reflects the (tentatively) leafy grounds of Bonnington House
Anish Kapoor at Houghton Hall hopeful mood of the country. It’s
Delayed but not diminished by familiar territory for Leek — you may — is open for local members to
coronavirus, the UK’s largest remember his 2015 Notes to Strangers get a first glimpse of the exhibition
exhibition of outdoor sculptures by the project, in which uplifting, colourful, dedicated to pioneering American
Turner Prize winner is finally open to hand-written posters appeared across
the public — and it’s free for under-18s. the capital. Until 30 September. conceptual artist Allan Kaprow.
Featuring 24 seminal works spanning kingscross.co.uk andy-leek.com ysp.org.uk jupiterartland.org
his 40-year career, these installations
— including the iconic Sky Mirror KEW GARDENS GUERNSEY
(2018), a concave, topsy-turvy window
onto the clouds above — pop against Travel the World Renoir Walk
the elegant grounds and classical Ten countries across six continents, New for the Channel Island is a self-guided
architecture of the 18th-century all visited in one day — that’s walk in the Moulin Huet valley, tracing the
manor, built for Britain’s first prime what’s on offer this autumn, locations that inspired some of impressionist
minister, Sir Robert Walpole. Until 1 botanically speaking, at the Royal master Renoir’s paintings while on a summer
November. houghtonhall.com Botanical Gardens in London. Newly holiday in 1883. Opened in 2019 to mark the
commissioned poems, prose and centenary of his death, the Renoir Walk has
LONDON illustrations from international artists five empty, ornate picture frames that look
will help transport visitors as they upon landscapes immortalised by the artist.
Andy Leek residency, explore a score of specially highlighted Visitors can even scan a QR code to hear an
King’s Cross spots in the 320-acre site, from the audio guide by a world authority on his work.
London’s buzzy business and dining flower-scented Mediterranean garden artforguernsey.com/renoir visitguernsey.com
district is celebrating its post- and the majestic Californian Redwood
lockdown reawakening by partnering Grove through to the Japanese Garden AMELIA DUGGAN
with street artist Andy Leek. The of Peace, with its Great Pagoda. Until 16
project: to use the whole 67-acre area as October. kew.org
his canvas during a three-month-long

22 nationalgeographic.co.uk/travel



THE EXPERIENCE
OF A LIFETIME

Discover your utmost potential by submerging
yourself in Iceland’s pristine nature. Literally.

Off the beaten track from Iceland’s whose powerful life transformation profoundly unique one discovers
most popular wellness attractions, led him to start teaching the benefits when going into ice-cold water,
the locals have found a new way to of Icelandic Cold Therapy. led by Andri and surrounded by
take advantage of the country’s astonishing nature. It’s a simple way
best: breathtaking nature and ice- Inspired by the teachings of Wim to rediscover your abilities to take
cold water. Hof and Iceland’s long tradition of back the control of your automatic
cold-water swimming, Andri has stress response and learn to be OK
Leading a small group of people become a go-to reference by those no matter what. It’s learning to be in
into a cold lake is where you will find seeking a wellness experience like the eye of the hurricane.
Andri, founder of ANDRI ICELAND, no other. There is simply something

Discover more by visiting www.andriiceland.com

SMART TRAVELLER

WINE EXPERIENCES Enjoying wine at WOW Porto
BELOW: A glass of white wine
THE WOW FACTOR
with Porto’s River Douro
Raise a glass! A mammoth project is set to transform Porto’s in the background
former wine warehouse district into a new cultural quarter
DID YOU KNOW?
First came Bordeaux’s Cité du Vin in 2016: a tourism projects to launch in Europe this
10-storey temple to wine, set on the banks year, with six museum experiences, nine Portugal was the
of the Garonne River. This year, Portugal restaurants, bars and cafes, a collection of ninth-largest
has gone one better: following five years of event and exhibitions spaces and, to top it all
development, and at a cost of €105m (£95m), off, a wine school offering courses focusing on exporter of wine
World of Wine (WOW) opened in Porto in Portuguese viticulture and gastronomy. There in 2019, shipping
July, housed in 55,000sq metres of restored are also virtual tours through Portuguese out 300 million litres
port wine cellars. Located in Vila Nova de wine production over the ages, and a guide to of the stuff, according
Gaia, a dockside hub for the European wine cork — another of the country’s major exports. to statista.com. Italy
industry since the 1700s, WOW is laid out came out on top, with
around a central square, with views across Set to join WOW later this year is the exports totalling a
Porto’s terracotta roofs and the Douro River. Porto Fashion & Fabric Museum, housed giddy 2.16 billion litres.
in an 18th-century building that includes a
As with Bordeaux, this ambitious chapel designed by celebrated Italian artist Sept/Oct 2020 25
opening hopes to gift the city with a fresh and architect Nicolau Nasoni, complete with
new cultural quarter. It’s one of the largest restored frescos. wow.pt SARAH BARRELL

POUR ME ANOTHER

THREE NEW WINE EXPERIENCES

IMAGE: GETTY THE ROAD TRIP THE STAYCATION THE MUSEUM

Follow the 385-mile Vallée de la Set in the heart of Suffolk’s wine Once home to Pierre-Nicolas
Gastronomie route from Dijon to country, Giffords Hall is set to Perrier and Adèle Jouët
Marseille. Travellers can stop off
at Michelin-starred restaurants open a new barrel hall and winery (of Champagne house Maison
along the way, and try food and in a former grain store. Come for Perrier-Jouët), Château Perrier
wine pairings at truffle grounds, the 2016 Pinot Blanc and stay for
a vineyard tour — and don’t miss is due to open this autumn
olive orchards and vineyards. as the Champagne Wine and
valleedelagastronomie.com the estate’s herd of Hebridean Regional Archaeology Museum.
sheep. giffordshall.co.uk archeochampagne.epernay.fr



SMART TRAVELLER

A TA STE OF Food writer Fuchsia’s top three
FUCHSIA DUNLOP Chengdu restaurants
SICHUAN
has spent more than THE CHERRY GARDEN
Fuchsia Dunlop explores the unique two decades travelling A rooftop restaurant with a beautiful
flavours of this Chinese province garden terrace for al fresco dining
around China and when the weather’s fair. Visit for hearty
learning about Sichuanese homestyle dishes.
its cuisine WHAT TO ORDER: Fish in chilli bean
sauce, twice-cooked pork and cool pea-
IMAGES: YUKI SUGIURA; COLIN BELL It’s easy to forget China is more of a continent dishes. And although spice might be the starch jelly (liangfen) in a spicy sauce.
than a country: its vast territory encompasses cuisine’s most distinctive taste, the most T: 00 86 28 8678 8498.
deserts and rainforests, high mountains salient characteristic of Sichuanese cookery
and fertile plains, salt lakes and rolling is in fact its audacious combinations of WANG’S SPECIAL GUOKUI
grasslands. The Sichuan region, including different flavours: sweet-and-sour ‘lychee There’s one reason to visit Wang’s, and
the cities of Chongqing and Chengdu, has its flavour’, delicate ‘fragrant-boozy flavour’ and that’s to taste the guokui, a superlative
own dialect, unique teahouse culture and an fresh, light ‘ginger juice flavour’, for example. version of this crisp pinwheel pastry
outstanding culinary tradition. filled with minced meat and a tingle of
Sichuan pepper is one of the most ancient Sichuan pepper. Bite into the incredibly
The most famous characteristic of Chinese spices. It has a heady aroma that crisp crust and chewy dough as you
Sichuanese cuisine is its fieriness, derived carries hints of wood and citrus peel, and stand on the pavement. Expect long
from the liberal use of red chillies. Dried in produces a numbing effect on the mouth. queues, but enjoying watching the
the sun, blood-red and lustrous, or pickled The taste and fragrance are incomparable, chefs while you wait.
bright scarlet in salt and wine, chillies are and most people succumb quickly to its WHAT TO ORDER: Pork or beef guokui.
at the heart of the region’s cooking. They’re aromatic charms. One folk explanation for its 82 Caoshi Street, Qingyang District.
used inventively in many local dishes. widespread use in Sichuanese cookery is that
Sizzled in oil, they give the ‘scorched chilli its numbing effects allow the consumption YUZHILAN
flavour’ that’s the base of gong bao chicken of more chillies than would otherwise be This tiny restaurant is renowned for
and innumerable vegetable stir-fries; humanly possible. its exquisite — and expensive
combined with Sichuan pepper, they’re used — Sichuanese banquet cooking.
in intensely powerful ‘numbing-and-hot’ An edited extract from The Food of Sichuan, Expect only the finest ingredients and
published by Bloomsbury (RRP: £30). wonderful flavours ranging from spicy
rabbit to delicate broths.
WHAT TO ORDER: Highlights of the
tasting menu include sea cucumber in
sour-and-hot soup and delicate ‘golden
thread’ noodles. T: 00 86 28 6249 1966.

MUST-TRY DISH

Hotpot — a steaming
cauldron of hot chillies,
Sichuan pepper, oil
and broth — is a
Chongqing speciality.
Diners sit around the
pot and cook their own
meat, offal, seafood or
vegetables in the soup.

Sept/Oct 2020 27

Astonishing Palace © 2020 NEGRESCO

HôTEL NEGRESCO
37 PROMENADE DES ANGLAIS . NIcE

www.LENEGRESCO.COm

ON THE TRAIL 1 SMART TRAVELLER
3 2
COIMBRA
4
Ascend the cobbled streets of Portugal’s
former capital to find history, art and
architecture around every corner
Words: Nora Wallaya

5
6

1 SÉ VELHA 3 JOHANNINE LIBRARY

Start off at the old cathedral Bibliophiles will love this 18th-
and marvel at its fierce granite century baroque library. The
exterior. It owes its hulking form university’s crowning glory, it’s
to the 12th-century planners spread over three floors, but the
who incorporated fortifications star of the show is the Noble
such as crenellations and narrow Room: all exquisite chinoiserie
windows into their churches bookshelves, gilded coving and
due to the threat of Moorish trompe-l’œil ceiling paintings.
invasion. Take note — this Lose yourself amid 60,000
grand old church is among volumes preserved by both strict
the last-remaining examples entry regulations and a 250-year-
of Portuguese-Romanesque old bat colony that picks off
architecture in the country. paper-nipping insects at night.

ILLUSTRATION: MARTIN HAAKE 2 UNIVERSITY OF COIMBRA 4 BOTANICAL GARDEN 5 SEMINÁRIO MAIOR DE COIMBRA 6 MONASTERY OF SANTA

Wander your way uphill Tumbling down from the Veer off the tourist trail to this CLARA-A-VELHA
to Coimbra’s 13th-century university to the Mondego River, old seminary, which houses
university, the oldest in the the 32-acre Botanic Garden is an important collection of Cross the Mondego and wander
Portuguese-speaking world. a sanctuary from the midday 18th-century Italian art, this old monastery and nuns’
It’s packed with treasures, blaze as much as it is an outdoor and a museum dedicated to quarters, which date back to the
including the Capelo de São classroom for students of Portuguese priest and artist 14th century. They were finally
Miguel’s azulejo tiles. Wander medicine and natural sciences Nunes Pereira, whose intricate abandoned in the 17th century
the courtyard with its clock- at the university. The large 19th- woodcuts are locally adored. after frequent flooding and after
and bell-tower, and don’t miss century glasshouse is one of There’s a classroom decorated an extensive restoration in 1995,
the collection of scientific Portugal’s oldest iron structures with duck-egg blue azulejos, remarkably intact stonework and
instruments in the Museu da — check out the carnivorous an historic library housing original tiling was revealed. Stop
Ciência, or the lavish Great Hall plants, orchids and other tropical some 9,000 books, a chapel and by the visitor centre to admire
of Acts, decked in red velvet. species there. episcopal lodgings to explore. some of the relics unearthed
during the restoration.

Sept/Oct 2020 29

INTRODUCING AN ARTFUL

TRIPTYCH

THREE UNIQUE PLACES TO STAY IN DELIGHTFUL DUBLIN AND ELEGANT EDINBURGH

STAUNTONS ON THE GREEN
NUMBER 31

THE BONHAM

Refined elegance, classic style and impeccable Each with unique pieces of art, fabulous furnishings
taste - these distinct characteristics define the and beautifully landscaped gardens to complement
three properties in this luxe collection of hotels and
townhouses in Dublin and Edinburgh. Wonderfully their original beauty. Whether you prefer the
rich in history and classic architectural charm. heart of Victorian Edinburgh or Georgian Dublin,

discover your next favorite place to stay.

DUBLIN DUBLIN EDINBURGH

stauntonsonthegreen.ie number31.ie thebonham.com

IMAGES: AWL IMAGES; ROAR PAASKE FOTOGRAFI. RATES QUOTED ARE WHERE TO STAY SMART TRAVELLER
FOR STANDARD DOUBLES, ROOM ONLY, UNLESS OTHERWISE SPECIFIED
AARHUS 2 ZLEEP HOTEL AARHUS VIBY
Affordable but stylish? Not an oxymoron at
Denmark’s second city is renowned this, the second Zleep for Aarhus, located
for its cutting-edge design, and its an easy train ride from the city centre in
hotel scene is following suit the business district. Minimalist, exposed
concrete walls are paired with Scandi-simple
1 BOOK1 DESIGN HOSTEL furniture and it’s ideal for families, with
Forget your idea of a conventional hostel — Book1 is a triple- and four-bed family rooms.
designer ‘poshtel’ located in a former library that dates From £75. zleep.com
back to the 1930s, in a plum spot beside the ARoS art 3 RADISSON RED
museum. It comes courtesy of swish Danish chain The business chain’s funky, millennial-aimed
Brøchner Hotels, and you can see its slick, minimalist brand made its debut in Aarhus this year with
style in the details. It’s as stylish a place as you’d expect an enormous lobby designed for socialising
for Denmark’s second, design-forward city, with an and rooms based around a trendy grey-on-
urban, monochrome aesthetic, an is full of all kinds of darker-grey palette. It looks well set to grow
savvy touches, including touches like dimmed under- into the ‘vibrant urban social hub’ it aims to
bed lighting for dorm sleepers who need to get up in the be. From £115. radisson.com
night and queen-sized beds in the ‘pod dorms’, based on 4 VILLA PROVENCE
Japanese pod hotels, where your private box comes with If you’re into traditional rather than Scandi
a privacy curtain. chic, head for this French outpost, complete
with cobbled atrium, wrought-iron bedsteads
Not that dorms are the only option here. Chances are and Gallic posters all over the walls. Even
you’re here for the private rooms — and even suites the baguette-heavy breakfast is French-
— where, although space might have been sacrificed, influenced. You’ll be in good company,
style certainly hasn’t; there are smart parquet floors and too — it’s a hit with A-listers. From £139,
neat, if a little tight, bathrooms. B&B. villaprovence.dk JULIA BUCKLEY

The signature tipple is whatever you fancy at the lobby 4
bar, where there’s a happy hour each evening from 5pm.
Gym bunnies can break a sweat in the on-site gym and Sept/Oct 2020 31
sauna or, if you fancy curling up with a book, there’s also
a reading area, in a nod to the building’s origins.

Brøchner has kept its signature organic breakfast,
which is best enjoyed on the terrace, but the real draw
is the restaurant offering, which includes a bakery,
barbecue and smørrebrød (open sandwich) stand. There’s
little need to venture outside, although if you do, you’ll
find a welcoming and thoroughly modern city embracing
its love of cutting-edge design. From £89 for private
doubles. brochner-hotels.com

SMART TRAVELLER

FA M ILY

THE LAKE ESCAPE

Heading to the Lake District? Pack your walking gear and
embrace the great outdoors to make the most of a family
getaway around Lake Windermere

Lake Windermere; cycling in the Lake District;
pan-fried fish at the Hare & Hounds

On the water Feel the force WHERE TO STAY IMAGES: ALAMY; LEAH RUSHTON PHOTOGRAPHY

Set off on a cruise and take in one of the best- A short walk east from Ambleside town centre is HARE & HOUNDS
known lakes by boat. Windermere Cruises runs Stock Ghyll Force, a beautiful, 70ft-high waterfall This classic country
a number of (at the time of writing, socially that tumbles through the woods. The path to the inn has four rooms
distanced) cruises from Lakeside Pier, at the falls can be a little tricky to find; it’s located next to for overnight stays
southern end of Lake Windermere. Alternatively, Cunningham’s outdoor shop. Don’t miss the Bridge and a newly added
there’s the fun Lakeside Circular Cruise & Steam House, opposite the shop; the 17th-century cottage self-contained Barn
Train tour, which departs from Haverthwaite over the Stock Ghyll is a prime photo spot. Annexe. Perfect for
railway station and chugs its way to Lakeside Pier; self-catering families
or the Bowness, Ambleside or Lakeside circular Animal antics and dog owners,
cruises, each of which lasts around an hour. it’s every inch the
windermere-lakecruises.co.uk No family visit to the Lake District would be classic pub with
complete without a visit to the World of Beatrix rooms. From £100,
King of the castle Potter in Bowness-on-Windermere. Ideal for young or Barn Annexe from
ones, the author’s enchanting stories are brought to £120, both B&B.
Head to Wray Castle, a gothic revival National life with animatronic exhibits, an award-winning hareandhoundslevens.
Trust property on the western shore of Peter Rabbit Garden and a superb, character- co.uk
Windermere. Little ones can dream themselves themed cafe. hop-skip-jump.com
away to a fantasy world by exploring the castle’s LANGDALE HOTEL
elaborate hall, towers and turrets. The beautiful Quirky culture North of the
surrounding countryside also enchanted a certain Lakes (and ideal
Beatrix Potter, whose tales come to life inside in Put on your walking shoes and beat a path around for Ambleside),
the former servants’ quarters, now the CBeebies Kendal, exploring the independent shops, picking Langdale Hotel
Peter Rabbit Adventure rooms. nationaltrust.org.uk up some local Kendal mint cake and getting has 56 rooms and
your art fix at the Abbot Hall Art Gallery. Other offers self-catering
A step back in time highlights include the Brewery Arts Centre with accommodation
its colourful events programme, and the incredible plus a host of leisure
In the charming town of Ambleside, less than a Quaker Tapestry Museum. visit-kendal.co.uk facilities. Nearby is
mile from the pier, call in at the Armitt Museum to the Wainwrights’
find more about the life and history of the Lakes, Horrible histories Inn, with a fine
with a dedicated Beatrix Potter section. For a selection of local
glimpse into the life and work of the area’s most Explore the scenic ruins of 12th-cenutry Kendal ales. From £195, B&B,
famous son, head up the road to Rydal Mount Castle, once home to the family of Catherine Parr, for a family of four.
& Gardens, an impossibly perfect country cottage the last of Henry VIII’s six wives. Take in the views langdale.co.uk
that was the home of poet William Wordsworth before winding your way back to town along the
for nearly 40 years, until his death in 1850. River Kent, before peeking inside the beautiful,
armitt.com rydalmount.co.uk 13th-century Kendal Parish Church — the largest
in Cumbria. visitcumbria.com MARIA PIERI

32 nationalgeographic.co.uk/travel

NOW IN STORE AND ONLINE:

JACK-WOLFSKIN.CO.UK/PACK-AND-GO

SMART TRAVELLER

INSIDE GUIDE

LAUSANNE

Set on the shores of Lake Geneva, the Swiss city is a tour de force
of Alpine backdrops, Olympic legends and cultural clout

Culturally speaking, Lausanne is a city on the move, with ÇA PASSE CRÈME! plus roastery-cafe SLEEPY BEAR COFFEE
a creative buzz and party-loving vibe courtesy of the providing a first-class caffeine fix thanks to baristas
students that dri between galleries, cafes, coffee shops who seriously know their stuff. thecoffeeproject.ch
and post-industrial bars. Add a medieval centre, Olympic capassecreme.ch sleepybearcoffee.ch
heritage and a beautiful lakeside setting, and the result is
what can rightfully be billed as one of Switzerland’s most Slightly west of Flon, DOCKS is Lausanne’s cultural
exciting cities. livewire, with a gallery that zooms in on the rising stars
of Swiss art and an always-stellar lineup of gigs (Nick
On the site of the city’s former train sheds, PLATEFORME Cave, Foals and Sigur Ros have all played here). docks.ch
10 is an innovative arts district set to single-handedly
revolutionise Lausanne’s cultural scene by bringing There’s also the historic La Cité district, topped off by
together the city’s three flagship museums: the Musée the gothic giant that is LAUSANNE CATHEDRAL. Clamber up
Cantonal des Beaux-Arts (MCBA), the Musée de l’Élysée to the belfry for spectacular views over the city’s roo ops
and the Museum of Contemporary Design and Applied to Lake Geneva and the Alps beyond. While in the area,
Arts (MUDAC). You’ll find restaurants, a bookshop, a stop by the MUSEUM OF CONTEMPORARY DESIGN AND
library and event spaces in the mix, too. plateforme10.ch APPLIED ARTS MUDAC before it ups sticks to Plateforme 10
in 2022. mudac.ch
The first of the three to open at Plateforme 10 is the
MUSÉE CANTONAL DES BEAUX ARTS MCBA , with its Head down to the waterfront Ouchy neighbourhood
geometric, light-drenched interiors. The museum houses for even more views of the lake and mountains. When
a collection strong on 18th- and 19th-century Swiss the sun is out, it seems the entire city decamps to the
art, including works by Louis Ducros, Félix Vallotton PROMENADE to walk, run, cycle or rollerblade. You can
and Alice Bailly. The rotating exhibitions swing also rent out pedalos and kayaks, or simply hang out at
from Viennese modernism to Giovanni Giacometti’s the pop-up bars that appear here in summer.
watercolours. Entry is free, although temporary
exhibitions may have an admission fee. mcba.ch One of Lausanne’s top lakefront attractions is the
OLYMPIC MUSEUM, which has displays of medals, torches
Over in the post-industrial Flon district, a ra of new- and other memorabilia, as well as an array of interactive
wave cafes, bars, boutiques and galleries occupy former exhibits. The museum is the prelude to the OLYMPIC
warehouses. With its mishmash of Victorian frippery and PARK, where sculpture-studded landscaped gardens lead
exotic blooms, the fabulously eccentric LE PERROQUET is down to the lake. The other standout here is the MUSÉE
a popular go-to spot for a weekend brunch and spot-on DE L’ELYSÉE, showcasing an ever-changing roster of
G&Ts. Head to nearby EAT ME for international cuisines contemporary photography in an 18th-century mansion
and expertly mixed cocktails that whisk you around the (also moving to Plateforme 10 in 2021). olympic.org elysee.ch
globe. A erwards, bed down at HÔTEL DES VOYAGEURS,
a boutique retreat combining art deco architecture with Ouchy is blow-the-budget territory in Lausanne, and the
chic style. voyageurs.ch eat-me.ch icing on the cake is CHÂTEAU D’OUCHY, where medieval
castle meets modern hotel. Around the corner is two-
Lausanne’s third-wave cafe scene is going from Michelin-starred ANNE SOPHIE PIC, where the eponymous
strength to strength in this hip corner of town, with the chef walks the culinary high-wire with punchy, season-
likes of speciality coffeeshops THE COFFEE PROJECT and driven, too-pretty-to-eat dishes at the Beau-Rivage Palace.
chateaudouchy.ch brp.ch KERRY WALKER

LIKE A LOCAL VAGA BON CAFÉ ARTISHOW LE KIOSQUE IMAGES: GETTY; ARNAUD DU JARDIN
SAINT FRANÇOIS
Tanya Christensen’s guide This wonderful spot is An art gallery, florist,
to culture and cafes both a brocante (thrift bar and lunch spot, A bus ticket kiosk has
shop) and cafe. Stepping Artishow is located in the been transformed
Lausanne is the inside is like being new ‘Garages’ in the Flon into this little cafe,
adopted home of Tanya transported to another district. With friendly staff perfectly situated
Christensen, co-founder era, with its mid- and a menu featuring in central Lausanne.
of The Lausanne century furniture and local produce, it’s the It’s a charmingly
Guide, which gives art deco flair. Order a perfect place to unwind old-world place
the inside scoop on flat white made with and be creatively inspired for people-watching
exploring the city.  locally roasted coffee. with a cocktail or aperitif over a coffee
thelausanneguide.com vagaboncafe.ch in hand. artishow.ch or aperitif.

34 nationalgeographic.co.uk/travel