DEPARTMENT OF CULTURAL PROMOTION MINISTRY OF CULTURE OF THAILAND Culture Tastiness from Cuisine to
Tastiness from Culture Cuisine to
Tomyum Kung: Tastiness from Cuisine to Culture Published by Department of Cultural Promotion, Ministry of Culture Date of Publication: August 2022: 1,000 copies ISBN: 978-616-543-781-3 Consultants Chai Nakhonchai Director-General, Department of Cultural Promotion Archaraporn Pongchavee Deputy Director-General, Department of Cultural Promotion Waraphan Chaichanasiri Director, Division of Intangible Cultural Heritage Itsara Rewtragulpibul Secretary to the Department Editorial Directors Chakrit Sittirit Somphop Putai Nupin Nantakiat Pattanee Suthamporn Somrudee Chaisukumarn Nutta Kiantongkul Editorial Team Thanyathon Naratemsab Editor Sayan Chuenudomsavad Art Direction/Photographer Chirawat Mahasapthaworn Food Photographer Wanassanan Thiravithul Food Stylist Kanya Teptaweepitak Cook Palin Ansusinha Translator Peter Montalbano Proofreader Thanks to the following institutions for providing information and images • International Affairs for Intangible Cultural Heritage Group, Division of Intangible Cultural Heritage • Osha Thai Restaurant & Bar, San Francisco, California, USA Project Manager Intangible Cultural Heritage Data Center, Division of Intangible Cultural Heritage, Department of Cultural Promotion Tel. +66 2247 0013 ext. 1315, 1319 Fax +66 2645 3061 Website: http://ich.culture.go.th Facebook: www.facebook.com/ichthailand Email: [email protected]
Tomyum kung is an intangible cultural heritage, a treasure that meaningfully embodies Thai ways of life and culture and has been accumulated, passed down, and inherited from generation to generation. It was named a National Intangible Cultural Heritage in 2011 and is currently being nominated for inscription on UNESCO's Representative List of Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity. Throughout the years the Department of Cultural Promotion has been working to promote and safeguard intangible cultural heritage at the local, national, and international levels. Even though tomyum kung is about to be registered as a National Intangible Cultural Heritage, elements of knowledge about it have yet to be publicized or disseminated to the wider public. As a public organization that promotes and transmits knowledge about intangible cultural heritage at the local, national, and international levels, the Department of Cultural Promotion found it necessary to compile and disseminate such knowledge in the form of the publication, “Tomyum Kung: Tastiness from Cuisine to Culture.” This was done to disseminate such knowledge to the general public, raising greater admiration and awareness of the value of tomyum kung as part of Thailand's significant intangible cultural heritage in various aspects, leading to increased enhancement and sustainability of its value and worth in response to changing conditions and social contexts. Department of Cultural Promotion
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| 5 | 50 70 72 Bibliography The Department of Cultural Promotion Role and Responsibility
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| 9 | When writing and printing was popularized during King Chulalongkorn’s (Rama V) reign, various tomyum recipes were given written documentation in various sources. For example “tomyum pla” in the Calendar and Journal R.S. 108, Vol. 1, Ed. 6 (1890 BE); “tomyum kung song khrueang” and “tom kung kub hed khon” in Tam Ra Patanukrom: Kan Tham Khong Khao Khong Wan (2441 BE); “kaeng nok mhor” and “tomyum Khmer” in Mae Krua Hua Bpak, a cookbook written by Lady Prien Pasakorn-Rawong (1908 A.D.), all of which are similar to the “tomyum kung song khrueng” recipe in Tam Ra Patanukrom: Kan Tham Khong Khao Khong Wan. Although with the exception of “tomyum kung kub hed khon” they differ in appearance and ingredients from what we now know as tomyum kung, it is possible that today we have a dish very similar to what was enjoyed throughout King Rama V's reign, if not before. for the dish was hardly known until about 70 years ago, when it became the “tomyum kung” so familiar to us today, and no one had yet written a record of its origins, let alone the identity of the recipe’s creator … This name
| 10 | The recipe in Khong Sawoey by M.R. Kitinadda Kitiyakon, the former secretary of the privy council and royal relative to Her Majesty Queen Sirikit The Queen Mother, produces the most similarity in appearance and taste to the clear tomyum kung broth known today. M.R. Kitinadda described the making of “tomyum kung sod” for His Majesty King Bhumibol Adulyadej and Her Majesty Queen Sirikit The Queen Mother in 1962 at Klai Kangwon Palace in Prachuap Kiri Khan province as follows: …Peel the prawn shells. Thoroughly rinse them. Cut along the back to devein. Prawn shells and heads are used to make the broth. Parboil the prawns before serving. Ladle the broth onto a plate. Season with lime juice, smashed bird's eye chilis, and fish sauce…
| 11 | Today, there are two versions of tomyum kung: clear–the original tomyum kung made without coconut or fresh milk–and creamy, with coconut milk (or fresh milk) added to thicken the broth. Seasoning and ingredients can vary according to personal preference, making it a popular dish among Thais and foreigners alike. It is easy to eat, has a distinct Asian herbal aroma, is highly nutritious, and is one of the most popular Thai dishes among foreigners: this has resulted countless times in it been named one of the world's most famous dishes. Tomyum kung was registered as a National Cultural Heritage in 2011, and in 2021, the jury promoting and safeguarding cultural heritage, the Department of Cultural Promotion, is currently awaiting cabinet approval to nominate tomyum kung for inscription in The United Nations Educational, Scientific, and Cultural Organization's (UNESCO) Representative List of Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity. Chao Phraya Pasakorawong (Porn Bunnag) and Lady Prien Pasakorn-Rawong
| 12 | Tomyum Kung: The Origin of the Name “Tomyum kung” combines three different words to form a new meaning. “Tom” refers to the cooking process of boiling water with herbs, then adding “Kung” or prawns and flavoring the dish with lime juice, fish sauce, and chilies, similar to how one would make “Yum,” or Thai spicy salad.
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| 15 | Elements of Tomyum Kung Since freshwater prawns are the major ingredient in tomyum kung, it is most likely to have originated in the river-based communities of Thailand's central region. Depending on the area, freshwater prawns can be substituted for by other species ranging from banana prawns to tiger prawns, giant tiger prawns, and white leg prawns; the dish demonstrates the diversity and abundance of Thailand's natural resources from the past to the present. Herbs = lemongrass, kaffir lime leaves, chilis, and lime. These herbs improve circulation, balance the body, aid digestion, alleviate constipation and indigestion, and are carminative. This dish is perfect to eat during the change of seasons, particularly at the end of the wet season, just as the cold season is about to begin. Seasoning = There are 3 main flavors: sour, from lime; salty, from fish sauce; and spicy, from chilis. Originally red chilis were used rather than bird’s eye chilis. The sweet taste is derived from the prawn broth alone and not from the addition of sugar.
| 16 | The variety of prawn species, ranging from banana prawns to tiger prawns, giant tiger prawns, and whiteleg prawns, reflects the diversity and abundance of Thailand’s natural resources.
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| 19 | Chilis: Import Goods from the New World Before chilis were imported by foreigners during King Maha Thammarachathirat's reign in the Ayutthaya Kingdom, Siamese people enjoyed spicy tastes from pepper and long pepper. Chili Jam, Not Stir-fried Chilis In the past, Thai chili jam was made by grilling shallots, garlic, and dried red chilis, and crushing them together in a mortar. It is not the Chinesestyle chili paste, which is made with shallow-fried shallots and dried chilis that have been crushed and stir-fried until fragrant.
| 20 | Images reflecting Siamese ways of life from the late Ayutthaya to early Rattanakosin periods can often be found in murals painted in various temples such as Wat Phra Si Rattana Satsadaram (commonly known in English as the Temple of the Emerald Buddha), Wat Phra Chetuphon Wimon Mangkhalaram Rajwaramahawihan (commonly, the Temple of the Reclining Buddha), and Wat Suthat Thepphawararam Ratchaworamahaviharn.
| 21 | A Literary Food: A Mirror into the Siamese Way of Life Since the Thonburi Era, names of dishes have been referenced in scripts of Lakhon Ram (dance drama), Bod Sepha (epic poems), or Nithan Kham Klon (tales in verse) to represent a character’s way of life and social status. For example, in the demon kingdom scene of the Ramakien epic it is described how the masters devour meat from large animals. For lay or forest people, food represents a state of lack and destitution, where they would eat whatever was available to them. For example, in the epic poem Khun Chang Khun Phaen, Khun Phaen complains about the food prepared by Nang Laothong for him on their journey to Kanchanaburi city: “… but their foul eating habits: toads, lizards, geckos, snakes, tortoises—whatever they can get their hands on, they'll eat it.” Thai literature in the early Rattanakosin era reflects the Siamese way of life before the second fall of the capital, up to King Rama III's reign. Although the names of different dishes are mentioned in the texts, the ingredients are not. This limits our search for what ingredients each dish is comprised of. Among the works of Thai literature that have been produced and compiled from the reign of King Phra Phutthaloetla Naphalai (Rama II), at least 3 of them have alluded to tomyum kung: Ramakien, Khun Chang Khun Paen, and Sunthorn Phu’s Phra Aphai Manee. Then, the party of angels picked what they desired: morsels of Pork and Chicken tomyum curry Translated from Ramakien – Rama’s Marriage Ceremony Saithong and the servants chaotically prepared curried shrimp cakes. They added chilis, lime, galangal, and lemongrass to season an aromatic tomyum curry. Translated and paraphrased from Khun Chang Khun Phaen, Chapter 8: Phlai Kaew Goes to War Rice balls and pork Chomped up scrumptiously Mouthfuls of shrimps, eggs, and chicken Panaeng and tomyum curry Translated from Phra Aphai Manee, Chapter 12: Phra Aphai Mani Meets Suwanmali
| 22 | Kaeng Nok Mhor, Tomyum Khmer, and Tomyum Kung Song Khrueang: Variations on Tomyum Kung Ingredients — Fresh prawns, good quality fish sauce, Harmand’s sole, dried fish, green mango, cucumber, pickled garlic, lime, granulated sugar, red chilis. Method — Boil the prawns whole, splashing in some good quality fish sauce. Take the prawns out once cooked, peel off the shells, and tear them into small pieces. Thinly slice the green mango into equal size. Peel the cucumber and thinly slice the flesh, avoiding the seeds. Thinly slice the pickled garlic. Bring prawn broth to a boil and ladle into a bowl. Spoon in a few drops of pickled garlic, squeeze in some lime juice, and add a moderate amount of granulated sugar. Taste and adjust to liking. Chop some red chilis and pluck off some coriander sprigs to use as garnish for kaeng nok mhor.
| 23 | Kaeng nok mhor
| 24 || 24 | 1782 – 1824 A.D. Both white and glutinous rice were the main components of Thai cuisine, eaten with chili paste and curry. 1809 - 1824 A.D. During the reign of King Rama II, food was referenced in various playscripts and literature. The words “tomyum” appeared in the Thai epic, Khun Chang Khun Phaen, Phra Aphai Manee, and the words “kaeng tomyum” in Ramakien, in the scene of Rama’s marriage ceremony, composed in King Rama II’s reign. 1854 A.D. The vicar Jean-Baptiste Pallegoix wrote in his book, Description de Royaume Thai ou Siam, “...Giant freshwater prawns... abounded in the river and were regularly eaten by the citizens...”. 1898 A.D. Recipes for “tomyum kung song khrueng” and “tomyum kung hed khon” appeared in the book, Tam Ra Patanukrom: Kan Tham Khong Khao Khong Wan. 1908 A.D. Recipes for “kaeng nok mhor” and “tomyum Khmer” appeared in Mae Krua Hua Bpak, a cookbook written by Lady Prien Pasakorn-Rawong. 1569 A.D. The capital fell for the first time. The Spanish and Portuguese brought species of chili to transplant in India and nearby countries, including those in Southeast Asia and Siam.
| 24 | | 24 | 1962 A.D. M.R. Kitinadda Kitiyakon made “tomyum kung” for His Majesty King Bhumibol Adulyadej, Her Majesty Queen Sirikit The Queen Mother, and their 4 children. 1964 A.D. The name “tomyum kung” was officially recorded in the book Khong Sawoey by M.R. Kitinadda Kitiyakon, the former secretary of the privy council. 1997 A.D. The words “tomyum kung” were used to label that year’s financial crisis the “Tomyum Kung Crisis.” 2005 A.D. The fi lm “Tom -Yum -Goong ” (The Protector) was released in Thailand and many other countries around the world, grossing 27 million US dollars. In 2013, its sequel was released. 2011 A.D. Tomyum kung was registered as a National Cultural Heritage, under the domain of knowledge and practices concerning nature and the universe, in the food and consumption category. 2020 A.D. CNN travel website listed tomyum kung as the 8th most delicious food in the world in 2020. 2022 A.D. The Board of Cultural Promotion and Preservation of Intangible Cultural Heritage, the Department of Cultural Promotion, is currently nominating tomyum kung for the cabinet’s approval of its inscription on UNESCO's Representative List of the Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity.
| 26 | Various ingredients to enhance tomyum flavors. Coriander Oyster mushroom White shimeji mushroom Straw mushroom
| 27 | Seeda tomato Holy basil Coriander Bilimbi Shallot
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| 31 | We have tomyum kung made with different prawn species with the addition of Chinese-style stir-fried chili paste, mushroom, tomatoes, large onions, and shallots for flavour and protein, garnished with Thai and sawtooth coriander. When limes are out of season, bilimbis or madan fruit can provide sourness as the dominant flavour, followed by salty and spicy. Milk or coconut milk is added to thicken the broth. So tomyum kung exemplifies the dynamics of a culinary culture that adapts to the changing times. But the ultimate challenge is, “How do we preserve a recipe such that it remains relevant and reflects the uniqueness of Thai cuisine?” can tell us about a culture, then tomyum kung provides one of its boldest and most vivid reflections. And more than just filling the stomach, it expresses individuality, identity, society, the environment, and local cultures specific to each region. If food...
| 32 | Seasoning Off-Heat: A Forgotten Knowledge Seasoning off-heat is an old culinary method used to enhance the taste and aroma of ingredients such as lime and chilis. This method can be found in the book, Mae Krua Hua Bpak, in the recipes for kaeng nok mhor and tomyum Khmer, as well as M.R. Kitinadda Kitiyakon's recipe for tomyum kung.
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| 34 | Assistant Professor Srisamorn Kongpan “It isn’t difficult to make tomyum the old way. There’s lime, chilis, fish sauce, and lemongrass that are smashed and chopped. Once you put it on the heat, add fish sauce, lemongrass, and prawns. Remove the prawns once they are cooked, then squeeze in some lime juice and toss in crushed bird-eye chilis. People in the old days used chilis for the aroma rather than the heat, as tomyum kung is a family dish that can be eaten by people of all ages. Don’t add galangal because it will overpower the smell of the prawns.” "In the old days people ate seasonally, since vegetables only grew as such. Tomyum kung was eaten during the winter, when it was the season for prawns. It was also eaten to treat colds." “If we reinterpret a cuisine just for the sake of creating a signature, one-of-a-kind dish without first learning the roots of that dish, we are killing its food culture and killing our own roots. We must do our part to preserve the correct methods that have been inscribed in recipe books or textbooks. Everything done in the past has a reason; people in the old days knew what tasted authentic, whereas the new generation doesn’t. If all of us do not help to preserve these things, they will soon disappear and future generations will not know what tomyum kung really tastes like.”
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| 37 | M.L. Parsan Svasti “When I was younger, my tomyum kung’s broth was clear. Dad (M.L. Thanadsri Svasti) would tell me that the herbs were lemongrass and kaffir lime leaves. Galangal is used in fish tomyum to cut the fishiness, as it was done in the old days. If it was tomyum kung, river prawns were used because prawns were abundant. When the river floods, the prawns get seasick and float up for an easy catch. “In my childhood, Dad would always teach me how to make the best tomyum. We season the broth in the bowl: squeeze in some lime juice, add some fish sauce and chilis at the bottom of the bowl, then ladle the broth over them for the aroma. Never season and stir everything in the pot while it's on the heat. “Cooking has its logic, unless you want your ‘Fusion’ food to turn into ‘Confusion’ food. Let me give you an example. Many people are now reinterpreting local cuisines, and, from what I see, most chefs who really know the roots of those particular foods are successful doing it. We need to be informed. Cooking has its own dynamics that we need to be attuned to in order to understand where certain foods have evolved from.”
| 38 | Chef Lalita Suksamran of Osha Thai Restaurant, San Francisco, California, USA “Foreigners will say tomyum kung with an accent, so it’s more commonly known among foreigners here as 'Hot & Sour Soup' in English. “Foreigners may have a lower spice tolerance, but they still enjoy the umami taste from the combination of salty, sour, and sweet flavors. We sometimes make them less spicy for the customer's preference, but foreigners have gotten better recently. They can tolerate the same amount of heat as Thai people. As a result, our restaurant makes tomyum kung the authentic way. “There is no difference between preparing tomyum kung in Thailand and making it abroad because all of the ingredients and seasoning are used according to the original recipe. Thai chilli jam and fish sauce are imported from Thailand, while herbs, bird's-eye chilis, kaffir lime leaves, galangal, lemongrass, lime, and fresh prawns are available locally. “Tomyum kung is a dish that perfectly embodies Thai-ness: its flavors are both diverse and distinctively Thai; it is also one of the most popular dishes featured in Thai restaurants abroad. We believe that foreigners will not be disappointed when they are presented with this dish.”
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| 41 | Chaiyan Yoosiri Member of Khon Rak Mae Klong Association, President of the Agricultural Council, Samut Songkram Province “Tomyum kung is a popular dish among foodies and even foreigners. The supply of prawns is largely dependent on the environment. Tomyum kung's ingredients are already available in Samut Songkram: prawns, various flavors, and herbs. When all of the elements are in place, the entire food chain becomes apparent. “We sincerely hope that everyone who has a stake in preservation sees the importance of preserving these wonderful recipes. It’s not enough just to have good food: there are healthy rivers and streams that need to be protected forever, too. “When nature is in good health, marine life can thrive and provide us with food to feed people. We won’t have food if nature collapses. The younger generation has become reliant on new gadgets and modern technology. If adults can encourage them to spend time in nature, in activities such as swimming, their love for nature will grow.”
| 42 | Dennapa Ngamnuch 13 years old A M.2 student from Wat Chaiyo School, Ang Thong province “Tomyum kung is a unique dish: it has bold and rich flavors, as well as herbs in the broth that are good for your body.” Warin Poemthep Granddaughter of the owner of Tom Yum Kung Banglamphu Restaurant, Bangkok “Tomyum kung is more striking than other dishes because of its bold flavors. Thai people like bold flavors. Before Covid-19, there were a lot of foreigners here (Bang Lamphu). We had regular customers who came here every year, ordering their favourite dishes like tomyum kung, garlic prawns, stir-fried morning glory, crispy pork. At first, I thought foreigners preferred mild flavors, before they all told me to make very spicy tomyum kung and exclaimed, “Very good!” What’s special about the tomyum kung we make in our restaurant is that we only use prawn roe and young coconut shoots. We don’t use chili jam or fresh milk.”
| 43 | Lek Yaidee 72 years old A street vendor who sells khao kriab pak mhor in the Wat Jampa community, Talingchan district, Bangkok “Tomyum kung is very delicious. I learned how to make tomyum kung from my parents. I helped them cook for the family or when we offered our food to the monks. Back in the day, we used to catch the prawns ourselves. Between June and July, when the tide was low, the prawns would float and we would be able to catch them easily. Lemongrass and kaffir lime can be picked straight from our garden. We season off-heat so the broth stays clear and the prawns are visible. That’s what makes it delicious.”
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| 45 | Thai cuisine and the Thai kitchen help to connect generations, from the act of cooking together to preparing meals for religious events and enjoying the food together.
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