NR13_Full

Sex & Drugs & Pinot Noir ISSUE 13 Inside the Mind of a Restaurant Critic
£9
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Issue 13: Where Everybody Knows Your Name

Oh, for the life of a restaurant critic. Like Chief Quality Tester at Domaine de
la Romanée-Conti or Scarlett Johansson’s pillow, it’s a vocation most of us can
only dream of, but what a life it must be. To walk into a restaurant you’ve
never been to before and get treated like Norm from Cheers, the perennial
regular ‘where everybody knows your name’. To savour the waiting staff’s
clenched expressions when you arrive unexpectedly and less important diners
are swiftly relocated closer to the loos. To wear disguises or make
reservations under ridiculous aliases like Goodluck Philomena III. To accept
bribes and cheeky extras (more Krug? How kind!), or to eat delicious food for
free whist moaning that it’s not as good as The Wolseley and tearing the
restaurant a new arsehole just for the entertainment of your readers. Of
course, this is all conjecture on Noble Rot’s part, so we asked The Times’ Giles
Coren and The Guardian’s Marina O’Loughlin if they’d shed some light on the
subject, challenging each to pick three platefuls from three different
restaurants that can fit together as the ultimate London meal. Turn to Critics’
Choice (p24) for the inside track.

As restaurateurs ourselves, Noble Rot knows only too well the suspense of
an influential national newspaper casting an eye over your establishment.
In June last year we were pleased to have met the approval (“they had me at
the bread basket”) of the metier’s most exigent mind – AA Gill of The Sunday
Times – only to be deeply saddened to learn of his passing in December.
George Reynolds pays tribute to one of Britain’s most eloquent and iconoclastic
writers on p44. It’s not often that a bona-fide movie legend graces the pages of
Noble Rot, so we’re thrilled to present an interview with Francis Ford
Coppola, director of Apocalypse Now and the Godfather trilogy and owner of
Napa’s historic Inglenook winery (p16). Elsewhere the Beastie Boys’ Mike D
tells us how drinking 1973 DRC Montrachet was “as monumental as listening
to your first Led Zeppelin album” (p64), The Sportsman’s Stephen Harris
muses on the highs and lows of ageing white Burgundy (p4) and we dance like
lunatics at the BYO party to end all BYO parties, La Paulée de Meursault
(p8). Enjoy this issue’s righteous ride through the best in food and wine – we
hope to see you at Noble Rot restaurant for lunch or dinner very soon.

Dan Keeling, London, February 2017

Issue 13 4 52
Goodbye to Old Lace Wines from
Noble Rot Subscriptions Cover illustration by Jose Mendes by Stephen Harris the Ancient Ocean
Inside cover illustration by Yoyo 8 by Dan Keeling
If you have enjoyed reading Noble Rot Wedding Crashers 64
then why not subscribe and have the next four by Dan Keeling Skills to Pay
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What’s Not in 2017 73
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A Quick Snifter with 76
Visit our online shop at www.noblerot.co.uk Francis Ford Coppola Dead Vignerons Society
by Dan Keeling by Mark Andrew
18 80
The Other Bordeaux The Only Way is Essex
by William Kelley by Emilee Tombs
22 88
Charlie & the Champagne Rebel Aesthetic
Factory by William Kelley
by Dan Keeling & William
Elliott 92
24 The Art of Homage
Critics’ Choice with Giles by Tom Kemble
Coren & Marina O’Loughlin 96
by Dan Keeling Chill Out
40 by Adam Coghlan
Burnt Grain Orecchiette 100
with Cime di Rapa Tortilla
by Jacob Kenedy by George Reynolds
42 104
Crab, Barbecued Cucumber, The One-Bottle Cocktail
Hispi, Laverbread & Dill Cabinet
by Tomos Parry by Alice Lascelles
44 107
AA Gill is Away Eukaryote’s Paradise
by George Reynolds by Emix Regulus
48 108
Brown Paper Bag What I’ve Learned About
by Rowley Leigh Airplane Food
by Marina O’Loughlin

Goodbye to
Old Lace

Stephen Harris on the unforgettable high
of a perfect white Burgundy

Illustrations by Adam Batchelor

So here I am sitting on my own in the Romeo – the Graduate car – with the roof
bar of The Sportsman. Everyone has down and two of us on the back parcel shelf. I
gone home and it is time to finish an was having a good time.
experiment that I began some 15 years ago.
I assume from speaking to other wine bores One wine stopped me in my tracks. It was a
that most of us have had some kind of 1985 Meursault 1er Cru ‘Perrières’ by Pierre
epiphany with the stuff just like I did; a wine Morey. It was slightly colder than cellar,
that confounds you and causes you to rethink having been sitting in an ice bucket for a
all you know on the subject. The red wine that while. I like this way of serving as it comes up
hooked me onto Burgundy was 1980 DRC to the right temperature before your very
Richebourg and ever since I have been trying mouth. The wine was medium-gold and some
to recreate the moment when I opened the condensation appeared on the outside of the
bottle and the whole room filled with the Riedel ‘Montrachet’ glass. As I took a sip
smell of roses, strawberries, truffles and cow something very strange happened – the wine
shit. My white wine epiphany was at a seemed to have a texture, crystals rather like
restaurant called Greens in San Francisco the ones you get when eating very good
back in the brief moment when nobody knew bellota ham or maybe old Comté cheese.
who had won the 2000 US election. We were It was creamy from the now-integrated oak,
in a private room where my old university with perfect acidic balance and a slight funk
friend Michael – by now working in the trade which signalled age. It filled the mouth and
– had organised a lunch with some of the tickled the cheeks. I had drunk and enjoyed
sommeliers in the city. It was a cloudless day white Burgundy before but this was different;
with vivid blue sky and the view from the this was out-and-out love. Like a schoolboy,
window was the rusty red Golden Gate I felt slightly embarrassed at how much I
Bridge. We had blown away the cobwebs from loved this wine and hoped nobody else in the
the night before by driving through the city experienced room would notice that I was
streets in Michael’s convertible red Alfa having a moment.

Back at the pub a couple of years later,

Noble Rot 5

a customer came up to tell me how wine on sale at Lay & Wheeler. I Turbot braised in oxidised Meursault
much he had enjoyed his lunch and I bought 18 bottles and put them in my
tried to shrug off the compliment. He cellar. In the intervening years disaster with bacon and runner beans
persisted and told me how the clean struck and white Burgundy has been
flavours and perfect pitch of our food afflicted by premature oxidation, and I By Stephen Harris
reminded him of the Fat Duck. He was now have a cellar full of it. Leflaive,
in the wine trade and I took it as a To cook the fish Bacon crisp
great compliment from someone who Ramonet, Coche-Dury: all the names.
tastes for a living. After several Bottle after bottle has been thrown 4 x 125g portions of turbot fillets 6 slices of smoked streaky bacon – I always cook
more visits I got to know Anthony away as the contents have proved 175ml of oxidised Meursault a few more than I need
Sarjeant quite well and realised 10g soft butter
he was one of the best-connected lifeless, dull and oxidised. I was Salt Wax paper or baking parchment
men in Burgundy. He was the throwing away so much that I 200ml fish velouté Pre-heat oven to 180⁰C
agent for Jean-François Coche- even came up with a recipe to get 50g cold butter
Dury and, back in the ’60s, had some use out of it. I figured it 1 lime 1. Rub a little oil on a baking sheet and cover
walked the streets of NYC with tasted a bit like Vin Jaune and so with a piece of wax paper.
Charles Rousseau, trying to 1. Put the fish in a buttered non-stick frying pan
convince anyone in the trade I tried cooking with it. I was and pour over 125ml of wine. 2. Lay the streaky bacon on the paper and cover
who would listen of the benefits quite proud of ‘turbot braised in with another piece of wax paper.
of domaine-bottled wines. One oxidised Meursault’ but if they 2. Dot the top of the fish with soft butter and
day I asked him about the wine were oxidising before they could season with a good pinch of salt. 3. Put a weight on the bacon – we use an equal-
I had drunk in Greens and of get old then it was goodbye to old sized baking sheet but anything will do.
course he knew the producer, lace. I waited for the wine to be 3. Put the pan under an overhead grill and cook
Pierre Morey, very well. “The 15 years old in 2017. gently, basting a couple of times with the 4. Bake in the oven for about 20 mins, but check
crystalline texture is known in wine. after 10.
French as ‘old lace’,” he told me. So here I am in The
“It is one of the main reasons Sportsman and everyone has 4. When the fish is almost cooked, remove the 5. When the bacon slices have browned take
people age white Burgundy. It feels gone home. I have a bottle of pan from the heat and transfer the juices into them out and allow to cool. When cool they
like old lace as it crackles on the tongue.” 2002 Meursault 1er Cru a small saucepan. Keep the fish covered and will be crisp – a bit like Frazzles.
‘Perrières’ by Pierre Morey and I warm and it will finish cooking in the pan.
In 2005 I decided to go and stay in the am going to open it now, in 2017, To dress the runner beans
village of Meursault and I sat by our pool just as M. Morey said. The colour is 5. Add the remaining 50ml of wine and bring to
watching the field of ‘Perrières’ high on the the same medium-gold and it smells of vanilla the boil. Reduce rapidly by half. 8 runner beans, medium-sized
Côte de Beaune. The sun came up early at and hazelnuts. I can’t see any tartaric acid 1 tbsp lime syrup (50:50 water and sugar boiled
that time in June and it remained blasting the crystals settling in the bottle but it is a great 6. Add the fish velouté to the wine mixture in the
vineyard until 9 o’clock at night. drink. It has a slightly musty cellar taste saucepan and bring to the boil. Reduce the and cooled down, then steep the grated zest
which quickly blows off, but it is not oxidised. sauce until it has a coating consistency. of 2 limes in the syrup for 30 mins)
I was meeting Anthony to visit a few After an hour it has put on weight, almost oily Salt
producers and we found ourselves in the in texture, and the slightly minty sensation of 7. With a stick blender, add the cold butter to the
cellar of Pierre Morey – of course, he was one rolling pebbles in the mouth begins. A sauce. Add a good squeeze of lime and a 1. Using a swivel-headed peeler, peel the runner
of Anthony’s suppliers. I rambled on in my pleasant cabbage-like flavour has developed pinch of salt. beans into thin strips by running the peeler
enthusiastic French about the wine I had and when I have a slug of fizzy mineral water down the length of the bean.
drunk in Greens and he nodded knowingly it sets off the strong taste of black truffle in 8. Put the fish in a bowl and pour over the sauce.
about the vintage, 1985 – a great year. I asked my mouth. There is no old lace but it is still a Shape the beans into a ball and put next to 2. Dress the peeled beans with 1 tbsp of lime
if he had any of that year left, half hoping that great wine and I begin to realise the error in the fish. Place a piece of the bacon crisp on syrup and a pinch of salt. Leave for at least 30
he would produce a bottle, but he didn’t. the experiment. I have controlled as much as I top of the fish. mins, tossing occasionally.
Pierre told me that if I wanted to reproduce can – same wine, similar vintage, the 15 years
that moment I should find and buy the 2002 ageing – but what has changed is me. In the 3. Add a good squeeze of lime juice and check
vintage as he considered it to be the closest years since that meal at Greens I have drunk the seasoning.
recent vintage to the quality of 1985: “Save it many more great white Burgundies including
and drink it in 2017!” He was laughing, Roulot and Coche-Dury’s stunning wines from
Anthony was laughing, but I don’t think they the same field. It can’t take me by surprise
noticed that I wasn’t. anymore and, rather like quantum physics,
just the act of observing the wine has changed
When I got back to England I found the it. It still has years left in it and I’m looking
forward to trying a bottle on its 20th birthday.

6 Noble Rot Noble Rot 7

Forget Wedding dinner in the Château du Clos happily deviates from actual
Crashers – any de Vougeot), there’s rambling wedding celebrations,
Burgundy lover going speeches, funny dancing, besides being a traditional
to La Paulée de Meursault for intense hand-wringing lunch to thank local vineyard
the first time feels like conversations between workers after harvest and
they’ve hit the jackpot of ruddy-faced winemakers who nothing whatsoever to do
wedding parties. Held in the dress like it’s still 1985, and with holy matrimony, is by
grand Château de Meursault hours of everyone singing the requiring every guest to
as the third part of the region’s twee drinking anthem bring at least one magnum of
Côte d’Or’s annual ‘Trois Le Ban Bourguignon (imagine eyeball-rolling, table-
Glorieuses’ extended Widow Twankey belting out thumping, foot-stomping,
weekend (which also includes Hey Jude whilst doing The hairs-on-the-back-of-the-
the Hospices de Beaune wine Birdie Song routine). neck brilliant Burgundy to
auction and a stuffy black tie However, where La Paulée aid the collective goal of

Dan Keeling joins the reavnenlruaylatwiBnuercgeluenbdrya’tsiiocnonic

Photos by Jon Wyand

La Paulée de Meursault Eric Rousseau (front left), Anne-France
Château de Meursault, Burgundy, France Ramonet (front right) and friends get in
the party spirit
Monday 21st November 2016
Noble Rot 9

“It’s the BYO party to end all BYO parties,
and you don’t even have to make
uncomfortable small talk
with the bride’s cranky uncle.”

Dominique Lafon – whose grandfather Jules revived the tradition of La Paulée de Meursault in 1923 who is making great bottles (Jeroboams, 1989 Chavy-Chouet
– shares a bottle with guests improvements in quality at Methuselahs and Meursault 1er ‘Les Charmes’.
Domaine Chavy-Chouet Nebuchawhatchamacallits), As First World problems go,
getting well and truly winemakers of the village, of the château (whoever – Noble Rot is sat at table relentlessly served by deciding what to drink and
plastered. It’s the BYO party La Paulée de Meursault has coined the expression ‘Genevrières’ (all sections are random benefactors to friend when at La Paulée de
to end all BYO parties, and become one of the most “couldn’t organise a piss-up in named after local vineyards) and stranger alike. Meursault must rank close to
you don’t even have to make talked about, but hard to get a brewery” obviously wasn’t when a man sporting Ronald the top of any self-respecting
uncomfortable small talk with into, events in wine – a kind French), and a growing McDonald hair and a magnum The Champagne continues list, so when leading
the bride’s cranky uncle. of bacchanalian Glastonbury crowd of thirsty revellers are of Champagne-god Anselme with a lovely 1999 Egly- winemaker Jean-Marc Roulot
or Super Bowl of fervently scanning table Selosse’s awesome 2003 Blanc Ouriet before Romaric’s greets Noble Rot with a
The lunch begins at Chardonnay – only much, plans like hardened combat des Blancs kicks festivities godfather, winemaker magnum of 1996 Meursault
midday on Monday, as much better fun. By 12.15pm troops to locate their stations off by sloshing some bubbly François Mikulski, and a 1er Cru ‘Perrières’ we waste
expectant as a Catholic the queue for the unisex for the day. As guests of in our glass. A whiff is all it grey-haired Englishman no time making room in one of
maternity ward. As tickets toilets is already snaking out Romaric Chavy – a rising star takes for affirmation that the arrive toting magnums of the several glasses we have
are only available to the world’s top vignerons make 2002 Meursault 1er Cru on the go. Meursault’s
extraordinary wines in even ‘Charmes’ and 2002 greatest vineyard in an
the most challenging vintages Raveneau Chablis 1er outstanding year, 1996 Roulot
(we could say it had a bouquet ‘Montée de Tonnerre’. Down ‘Perrières’ tastes like a
of roasted hazelnuts, biscuit the hatch. Next up, an repressed memory of the way
and savoury consommé with extraordinary 2008 Coche- aged white Burgundy ought
a Madiera-esque edge but Dury Meursault ‘Les to taste in fairytales, a
that, of course, would be to Rougeots’ is passed along the mind-bogglingly complex
miss the point – no one comes table by our neighbours – all concoction of honey, nuts,
to La Paulée to pull the legs typical Jean-François citrus and mushroom that
off wine). gunsmoke reduction and grips the palate like buttered
grapefruit attack – followed velcro and won’t let go.
From there on the in quick succession by 2002
afternoon accelerates Jacques Carillon Puligny- By 3.30pm the toilet queue
through a cinematic time- Montrachet 1er ‘Les is totally out of hand, and
lapse sequence of Perrières’, 2009 Faiveley outside copious guests are
extraordinary large-format Corton-Charlemagne and silhouetted in the grounds

10 Noble Rot Noble Rot 11



WHAT’S HOT UP DOWN
AND
VOLCANIC WINE ARGENTINEAN MALBEC 
WHAT’S NOT The world’s coolest wine is still One of the most banal wines in the
IN 2017 from its fieriest places. It’s only a oenoverse, it’s a blouson leather
jacket with high waist jeans; it’s a
Words by Kate Spicer matter of time before Tesco
introduces Mount Etna and mullet haircut; it’s a man who
M y mum stopped reading me stories of how enjoyable it is. ‘Low intervention’ Tenerife sections, but for now ash, doesn’t know a lot, but he knows
decades ago and, failing ever to wines require some re-education of the gas and lava is hot, hot, hot! what he likes and orders it very
wake up to a prince’s kiss, I’ve palate, but not to the extent that you cry
dismissed nearly all fairy-tales as excessively “Magnifique!” to something with the nose of UP confidently. It is liquid Jeremy
puritanical morality lectures. The only one fart and the taste of some home-brewed cider GREECE Clarkson.
that endures is The Emperor’s New Clothes, (yet I have done this many, many times). Greece has a rich vinous history
a story which is viscerally brought to life Repeat after me: wine is not a hair shirt. stretching back thousands of DOWN
every time I am asked to ‘appreciate’ a stink The Emperor’s New Wine is a modern years, and is enjoying a well- ORANGE WINE
bomb masquerading as a natural wine. The morality tale about all us trendsetters who deserved spurt of interest. Once the preserve of East London
flip-flopping nature of wine’s fashionability is, stammer with fear every time a sommelier If you like terroir-focused, hand- hipsters, Marks & Spencer has
in a way, very wonderful – had wine not been tries to sell us a qveri-made Georgian wine crafted wines without crazy prices, been selling orange wine for over
subject to the same vagaries as hemlines then when our happy place is oaky Cali producers like Economou three years now. When you can get
no-one would have ever tried Albariño or Chardonnay and a sneaky cigarette. That and Hatzidakis are among the a meal deal on a once ragingly cool
Grüner Veltliner. But to not give a toss about vain butt-naked King Idiot comes to mind names to watch. wine, you know that wine is over.
fashion in wine is to be an incurious bore – it’s every time a food and drink editor starts
really only Bufton Tuftons who can financially panting on about orange wine before ending UP DOWN
afford not to be curious, sticking to the their enthusing with the words, “does anyone AROMATISED WINE  SUPER TUSCANS
narrow pleasure-dome of Bordeaux and actually know what it is?”  So then, kick back In ye olden days it was normal (Except Sassicaia because it’s ace)
Burgundy. and relax whilst Noble Rot looks at what’s hot to throw all sorts into fermenting It’s super yacht wine; it’s nouveau
and what’s not in 2017… grape must; resin, bark, herbs, riche; it’s TFN (totally fucking naff).
A wine’s trend value is often no reflection dead pop stars. Uncool The liquid equivalent of distressed
for decades, the comeback for $1000 twat jeans.
Retsina, Barolo Chinato (which
tastes like a Diptyque candle) DOWN
SHERRY
and their ilk is on.    C’mon, even your Granny’s
rediscovered the joy of a glass of
UP Fino and some Bombay Mix. 
PINEAU DES CHARENTES
This stomach-rotting, breath- FALLING OFF A CLIFF EDGE
curdling firewater from the Cognac BIG WINE

producing region may be Now that no one listens to Robert
borderline un-ingestible, but Noble Parker there’s no excuse to drink
16.5% Zinfandel again. We don’t
Rot has heard whispers from care if it cost you £200 – big wine
Manhattan’s Lower East Side that
is for tramps.
it’s “great in cocktails”.
UP

CAHORS
French Malbec is on the up.
Beloved of the #cleandrinking tribe
for its high polyphenol levels,
it’s as different from its fat-
bottomed Argy relative as
Charlotte Gainsbourg is from

Kim Kardashian.

14 Noble Rot

A QUICK SNIFTER WITH…

Francis
Ford Coppola

Filmmaker and owner of Inglenook winery, Napa, California

Interview by DK. Illustration by Neal Fox What’s your earliest If you could no longer What three wines would you
childhood memory? Being produce wine in California, recommend to a curious
stung by a bee, aged 3 or 4. where would you relocate to beginner that would be
make it? Argentina, guaranteed to blow their
What’s the best piece of somewhere close to the mind? Romanée-Conti, La
advice you’ve ever been Andes. The entire region is a Tâche and Richebourg.
given? Never eat at a vineyard so all you really
restaurant named ‘Mom’s’. need is a source of water. Which of your ideas do you
regret not taking further? Sex.
What three cooking You’ve had phenomenal
ingredients could you not do successes like The Godfather What’s your favorite song
without? Olive oil, parsley and Apocolypse Now, as well lyric? “And I suddenly turn
and onion.   as some failures in your and see your fabulous face”
  career – was it equally as hard from I Get A Kick Out Of You.
What wine are you most proud managing the effects of both?
of producing? Have you made It really all depends how you What’s the world’s most
anything at Inglenook that define a failure. An artistic underrated wine region?
reaches the heights of the failure? A financial failure? Argentina. 
1941? We’ll have to wait 60 Only time really tells, so the
years to know, but I’m proud way I look at it I’ve never had What do you think the next
of Inglenook 2012 Rubicon. a failure. Yesterday’s failure four years hold for the United
Like 2013 it was a great year is maybe tomorrow’s success. States? Great progress and
for both quality and prosperity.
abundance. How would you define ‘art’ in a  
  sentence? The expression of What would be your last meal
Inglenook was closed down the human soul in terms of a and what would you drink with
during Prohibition; can you tangible product. it? Oatmeal with mead.
imagine a time in the future
when similar laws could be What’s the secret to great
re-introduced to America? storytelling? “What will
That seems impossible now, happen next?”
but I have no idea what the
future may bring. As Winston
Churchill said, prohibition is
so uncivilised.

Noble Rot 17

The Other Bordeaux

William Kelley spotlights the value and visionaries
in France’s largest fine wine region.

It’s not all suits and rising alcohol levels y’know…

Illustration by J.B.R. For over a year, claret scarcely touched viticulture were changing too. Beginning in
my lips. Like so many wine lovers, I the mid-1960s, the intensive, state-sponsored
cut my teeth as a taster on the wines of application of agrochemicals brought ever
Bordeaux. It was through drinking the great more copious yields; quality seemed to be
post- and pre-war vintages of châteaux such compatible with quantity, as the region’s most
as La Mission Haut-Brion, Montrose and celebrated vintages in this era – 1970, 1982,
Cheval Blanc that I first grasped the concept 1985, 1986, 1989 and 1990 – were also record-
of vinous greatness. So I would certainly breakingly large harvests. Chaptalisation,
never deny that Bordeaux can produce wines carefully regulated before the war, became
of aromatic complexity, structural amplitude the norm.
and dependable longevity to rival any in the
world. Yet like many wine lovers, I ended up By the 1980s, cellar practices were also
falling out of love with contemporary evolving. On the one hand came more
Bordeaux. selection, in theory if not always in practice,
and keener attention to hygiene. On the other
The reasons are familiar, and marketing is came different élevage practices: wines were
one. It’s clear to see that the top crus classés of bottled sooner, seldom seeing the three to
the Médoc and their counterparts on the Right four years in barrel that was once the norm at
Bank have been ‘repositioned’ as luxury the best addresses. Long-time régisseurs
goods: Lafite’s 2005 vintage, to take an retired, replaced not by their apprentices but
extreme example, was released at £3,900 a by graduates from oenology school.
case; its 2009 at a cool £13,000. That
repositioning was predicated on the courtship Above all, the Bordelais began picking
of new markets in Russia and above all China, riper fruit, beginning in the 1980s and
while well-established and more dependable accelerating dramatically in the new
relationships with Western Europe and North millennium. The sometimes tart and
America were neglected. Over-ambitious en attenuated Clarets of the ’70s became a thing
primeur pricing elicited reciprocal disdain of the past, but the pursuit of ripeness didn’t
from consumers for the 2011, 2012, 2013 and end there. Since 2009, even Haut-Brion, once
2014 vintages, which only partially dissipated the paradigm of classical balance, is routinely
with 2015. north of 14% alcohol.

And while Bordeaux’s traditionally Chaptalisation, par for the course even
patrician aloofness was morphing into the throughout the 1990s, soon became
sneer of Gucci-loafered graduates from unnecessary as natural alcohol levels
Parisian business schools, winemaking and mounted. In cooler vintages, maturity could
be hastened in the vineyard by green

Noble Rot 19

(Below) François Mitjaville, Tertre Rôteboeuf

harvesting and treatments such as the Bordeaux’s more interesting byways, it would Photo by Rob Billington neighboured by numerous modest small- élevage is long and firmly within the
hormone spray Sierra. In the cellar, dilution is be remiss not to mention the terrific value old holder vignerons; the small producers Bordelais tradition – with comparatively
mitigated and texture ‘enhanced’ with claret, especially underrated old claret, catalogued in books like Bernard Ginestet’s frequent rackings, determined by taste – and
concentration technology (reverse osmosis, represents. Beautiful wines like the 1970 Margaux or the more compendious Cocks & places a premium upon bright fruit flavours
cross-flow filtration) and micro-oxygenation, Pape Clément or 1998 Haut-Bailly continue to Feret. Among them is Domaine du Jaugaret, which underpin the more degraded,
both ubiquitous. The ensuing wines have been languish under the shadow of critics’ a 1.3ha estate in Saint-Julien that is winning empyreumatic nuances that high ripeness
aged in percentages of new oak not seen indifference or obloquy. Lesser crus in new acclaim for its utterly old-fashioned confers.
beyond the first growths since before the excellent years – 1985 Sociando-Mallet, 1989 wines, in part thanks to the eloquence
Second World War. Chasse-Spleen – are easy enough to come by, of its American importer, Neal Rosenthal: The resulting wines are ruby-black (never
and actually ready to drink. Mouton these are firm, ‘glass-staining’) and complex, even in their
What’s more, a handful of consultants now Rothschild’s stunning 1985 is less expensive uncompromisingly
oversee winemaking practices and shape the than their brooding, immature 2009. As fine savoury Clarets, youth.
styles of many of Bordeaux’s most important wine prices mount, whether in Burgundy, matured for 30 Simultaneously
estates. The Boissenot family, for example, Piedmont or elsewhere, older Bordeaux months in barrel. intellectual and
consult at over 150 addresses, mainly in the becomes increasingly appealing to the careful gourmand, they
Médoc and including all the first-growths. shopper. Rather grander are a fitting
Stéphane Derenoncourt and Michel Rolland is my personal representation of a
are almost as ubiquitous, with their emphasis It’s also worth entertaining a new favourite, Château man who
on the Right Bank. paradigm for what constitutes a great Bel Air Marquis sometimes seems
vintage: in the 1970s and ’80s, the ripest d’Aligre, dubbed to more closely
Like many, I became disenchanted with vintages could be safely assumed to be the “the Rayas of resemble an
the stylistic homogeneity that ensued as best; but in an era of more fastidious selection Margaux” by Enlightenment
ripeness mounted and winemaking decisions and a warmer Bordeaux climate, the premises Jacques Perrin philosophe than a
were outsourced. Re-tasting 2009s and 2010s of that assumption are due for re-evaluation. and “the purest contemporary
from bottle a few years ago, I began to The 2008s, for example, are overshadowed by Médoc” by Michel oenologist.
question whether the high-wire act of high the 2009s and ’10s; but with their pure fruit, Bettane. Its label
pH, high tannin and high alcohol was indeed abundant tannins and bright acidity the ’08s bears the merited Mitjaville
the magic formula for oenological excellence. would surely have been judged a great rubric ‘Grand belongs in a
I deplored the fixing of things that were not vintage in the ’60s. Will cooler vintages, which Cru Exceptionnel’. category of his
broken, and the crafting of forward, favour complete but moderate ripeness, turn Its reclusive own: Le Pin is
flatteringly textural wines designed to wow out to be the new blockbusters? proprietor probably Tertre
at en primeur tastings. I wondered why, just Monsieur Boyer’s Rôteboeuf’s
as classical claret seemed to be on the cusp of The most obvious destination for anyone recipe is simple: closest analogue.
capturing a new generation of consumers, the seeking the magic of classical claret in old vines, great His wines are
Bordelais would turn their backs on an contemporary vintages are the more old- terroir, traditional certainly a world
admirable aesthetic of their own to borrow school crus classés. The list isn’t as long as it vinification and élevage for four years in away from those of
one from Bolgheri and Napa Valley. used to be, but prominent places are occupied cement. His 2000 vintage, tasted this year, another
by Sociando-Mallet, Montrose, Grand-Puy- evokes the most memorable clarets of the ’60s idiosyncratic, and rather newer, estate:
But as the dust of my indignation Lacoste, Phélan-Ségur, Latour, Beychevelle, and has the stuffing and energy to evolve for Domaine de Galouchey, the project of Marco
(righteous or otherwise) has settled, it has Haut-Bailly, Canon, L’Evangile, Vieux as long. Older vintages can readily be found, Pelletier, sometime head sommelier of
been salutary to remember that there is Château Certan and the Moueix properties – and among them ’61, ’85 and ’96 merit Taillevent and Le Bristol, and his friends
another Bordeaux, one that’s sometimes Trotanoy, Bélair-Monange, La Fleur-Pétrus particular attention. Jean Terrade and Gérard Pantanacce. Their
neglected by the so-called ‘anti-flavour wine and so on – on the Right Bank. All these wines ‘Vin de Jardin’ hails from one hectare of vines
élite’ lynch mob waiting to castigate the are easy to find and already have a loyal Alongside the luddites, look to the in humble Beychac-et-Caillau, fermented à la
Bordelais for their sins. What’s more, there following. visionaries too. My favourite among them is bourguignonne with minimal extraction –
are signs that, as Noble Rot not long ago the inimitable François Mitjaville of Tertre white varieties included. Fresh, sappy and
suggested, Bordeaux is now “so un-cool it’s But what are the sources of truly Rôteboeuf, a man whose methods confound luminous, this wine nods more obviously to
cool”. And of course, a region that produces unreconstructed claret? To find them, we easy characterisation: on the one hand, he Saumur-Champigny and Fleurie than to the
more wine than all of Australia inevitably have to look beyond the crus classés, to the harvests late and employs, since 1985, frequently cumbersome petits châteaux.
encompasses significant diversity. holdouts and eccentrics. Some are relics of an exclusively new oak; on the other hand, his With byways like these to discover, it’s time
era where the grand estates were to begin exploring Bordeaux afresh.
Before beginning a brief tour of some of

20 Noble Rot Noble Rot 21









the reasons I said yes to this MO: That happened to me in a gram of coke out of it and I Giles on Marina’s choice:
feature was because I never Som Saa. I wrote a review did share it with her. We’d “So you’re trying to
go out and eat for fun, ever. I and gave it a 5/5 and been out clubbing and we’d convince me of the
cook for my kids, I eat at the absolutely adored it, and then had a few lines we got it from superiority of Italian food by
pizza place down the road and when I arranged to meet a this guy, Arseholio – he bringing me to somewhere
I go out to review. And I don’t work colleague there they looked like Arsenio Hall and owned by an English public
want to give bad reviews, so wouldn’t give me a table. he liked it up the arse so we schoolboy?”
I’m used to eating out two or There was a table for two in called him Arseholio, which
three times a week then the middle of the room and I we thought was hilarious, Marina on Giles’ choice:
reviewing the one that was asked, ‘can we not have that until I found myself noshing “I don’t want to leave. I want
great. table’, and they said ‘no’, and his cock at three in the to sit in front of the blazing
(Cumin lamb skewers and I said ‘but I thought you don’t morning. I don’t really heat of the open kitchen
langoustines with kefir lime take bookings’. I ended up remember but I must have and eat the whole menu.”
and mint are ordered whilst virtually begging – I think been quite drunk.
baked glass noodles with they thought I was quite MO: Did you like it?
pork belly and brown crab is mad.
cooked in a clay pot over
coals. Talk turns, bizarrely, (Above) Kiln interior GC: Marina’s whole life’s GC: Not really. But I did it
the time Giles “sucked cock work is to prove, by being properly, not like that
for drugs,” until Noble Rot (Left) Baked glass noodles with anonymous, that people in blowjob women give you
attempts to steer it pork belly and brown crab the catering industry are where they give it a nibble at
elsewhere.) cunts like everybody else. the top. I felt guilty for a very
NR: As a restaurant critic, is MO (eating langoustines with long time, and then I
it all red carpet and kefir lime and mint): Oh, gradually started telling my
Champagne when you eat that’s delicious… gay friends.
out? GC (to the waitress): What’s MO (boggling and changing
GC: Well I don’t take anything that black roe all about? the subject): Er, I just
for free, but I can walk into Waitress: It’s langoustine roe. wanted to finish what you
any one of hundreds of GC: But it’s weird and black, were saying about how you
restaurants I’ve been nice isn’t it? It’s all a bit too like being recognised and
about, plus restaurants I attached for me. loved in restaurants…
haven’t been to before, and by MO: Suck it. Suck it like the GC: And hated, I don’t mind
and large I get treated like a cock. being hated. My life has been
regular. Do you know what GC: I kept that story quiet for transformed by restaurants
baffles me about Marina years. I was with a girl and I like this [Kiln], where they
having to protect her wasn’t sure if it counted as couldn’t give a fuck who I
anonymity? I grew up reading being unfaithful, but I did get was. I couldn’t give a fuck if
superhero comic books, so I he noticed me, I love what he
understand the idea of the does, they bang it out, I think
masked avenger, but I always it’s wonderful.
knew I could never be
Batman because I’d keep Noble Rot 31
wanting to go, it’s me! I don’t
know how she can bear to go
into a restaurant where she
might have turned their life
around with an 8/10 review
and they treat her like shit
because she could be anyone.

30 Noble Rot

1.30pm

Kitty Fisher’s, 10 Shepherd Market, London W1J 7QF
www.kittyfishers.com  

Giles’ Main

Beef sirloin, onion, pink fir potatoes,
pickled walnut and Tunworth 

Served with 2014 Jean Foillard Morgon ‘Côte du Py’, Beaujolais, France

A second contentious choice, his chums shrieking,
one that Marina and Giles ‘Aldeburgh!’ ‘Ski-ing!’ ‘The
completely disagreed over in cottage!’”]
print. Owned by Giles’ friend GC: [Redacted] didn’t even
Oz (is there any fashionable go to fucking school!
restaurant in an upmarket [Redacted]’s a moron! He’s
London postcode not owned got an IQ of 95 and is
by one of his friends?), the interested only in suits – he’s
tiny Kitty Fisher’s has the a parvenu, he’s common as
feel of a hidden, old-school shite! You wouldn’t have that
Mayfair drinking den with a man in the Bullingdon club!
menu by (outgoing) Head My mate Oz who runs this
Chef Tomos Parry [see place, he never went to – oh,
recipes, p42]. Described by he went to Eton, I grant you.
Giles in The Times as cooking MO: I’d just like to say this is
“the best steak I’ve ever had” nothing to do with being
and “exactly the sort of Northern. If you come from
restaurant I would open Glasgow you think you are
myself, if I weren’t such a one of the masters of the
miserable wanker”, Marina universe, you know you are
was nowhere near as keen. superior to all these Eton
“Reckon I’ll wait until Parry sorts.
gets his own joint somewhere NR: Is the key to what you do
a little less Bullingdon Club,” as restaurant critics, week in,
she opined. week out, about being
GC: What was your problem entertaining?
with Kitty Fisher’s, Marina? GC: It’s not the restaurant’s
You compared it to the job to be interesting, it’s our
Bullingdon Club, but based job to be interesting and it’s
on a prejudice from what the restaurant’s job to serve
you’d read presumably? food.
MO: Based on sitting beside MO: But sometimes it’s easy
fucking what’s-his-face. and sometimes it’s like the
[Marina’s review mentions
being “sandwiched between
a famous mag editor and

32 Noble Rot Noble Rot 33

me and Marina and everyone 2.45pm
else are just fucking organ Gymkhana, 42 Albemarle St, Mayfair, London W1S 4JH
grinders’ monkeys tap- www.gymkhanalondon.com  
dancing on the periphery and
they don’t really matter, but Marina’s Main
– she’s nodding, let the records
show! The first time I went to Wild muntjac biryani with pomegranate and mint raita 
Quo Vadis, when it opened,
somebody asked who it was Served with 2012 Sette Fratelli, Sangiovese/Cabernet Sauvignon blend, Motewadi, India.
that really put bums on seats
in restaurants, and I was One of London’s most refined muntjac biryani that has been GC: Yeah – I had the whole
waiting for them to say me, but satisfying Indians, selected as our second main menu, then I came back
then they said ‘it’s her in the Gymkhana’s dark wooden course, a gloriously aromatic straight away and had it
Metro’ and I was like, what? panelling, wicker lined booths mix of spiced deer and again. I’ve always loved a shit
and faded photographic buttery basmati rice that brown curry up the high
(Above) Beef MO: That’s your thing Giles, decorations lend it the feel of arrives at table under a flaky street – there’s good shit high
sirloin, onion, pink you have that weird kind of one of the colonial Anglo- pastry dome. street curry and bad shit high
fir potatoes, no-self-esteem-but-big-ego Indian clubs from which its NR: Giles, didn’t you call street curry – but a few
pickled walnut thing. I thought nobody took name derives. Whilst Noble Gymkhana your “favourite weeks before I first ate at
and Tunworth me seriously, then I got into Rot would be happy devouring restaurant ever” when it first Gymkhana I reviewed [other
the Evening Standard’s 500 anything off Gymkhana’s opened? high-end Indian restaurant]
(Right) He did say most influential people and excellent menu, it’s the wild Chutney Mary and I thought
“the best steak reckoned I’d made it! But
I’ve ever had” what they actually wrote
about me was “she writes
restaurant reviews for people
who don’t normally read
restaurant reviews”.

one I wrote yesterday, where NR: Do you ever finish a piece GC: Ooh, Jersey Royals with
it’s like trepanning your own and feel pleased as it’s one of Tunworth cheese – you will
head it’s so hard. the best you’ve done? do a little shit when you eat
NR: Do you have a specific GC: I generally stand up from that! When I try to roast a
reader in mind when you the computer and punch the fillet or a whole ribeye at
write? air three times in a piece, and home I can never really get it
GC: No. The advice I give to if I don’t I file it anyway but actually blackened on the
people who can’t write – and feel sad. I also talk to myself. outside and then completely
Marina isn’t one of them but MO: There’s this imposter red throughout.
most of the other food critics syndrome, which I think MO: You need to dry it out.
are – is imagine you’re women are far more prey to You don’t want water in your
writing a long email to an old than men. I still think steak, you want blood and fat,
mate who shares all your somebody’s going to come and salting it gives it that
frames of reference and who along and say “we gave you fantastically dry black crust.
you’re not embarrassed at that job by mistake and now This is very good.
expressing yourself to. I read we’re going to give it to the GC: I mean, this fat
some other restaurant person whose job it really is”. approaches the quality of
reviewers, the kind of people GC: There’s no question that marrow. (Giles picks up his
who want to say “it was an the only two restaurant almost empty plate and
accurate bisque followed by a critics of any significance are begins licking the beef juices
correct broth”. Fucking hell! from it.) 

34 Noble Rot Noble Rot 35

the food and the service were restaurants, Hoopers and Giles on Marina’s choice: 3.45pm
terrible. They were so furious Trishna? ”I loved Gymkhana too. In Bob Bob Ricard, 1 Upper James St, Soho, London W1F 9DF
with my review that they GC: I went to Trishna first fact, I saw it first. Of course www.bobbobricard.com    
tried to take me to court – the and it was good, but it’s brilliant.”
first time in years that a Gymkhana really opened my Marina’s Pudding
restaurant had tried to do eyes. And is Hoppers them Marina on Giles’ choice:
that, and they cited the fact too? Adrian [Gill] liked that… ”It’s a whole lot less BBR signature chocolate glory at Bob Bob Ricard 
that AA Gill had really liked What do we do without him? Bullingdon when you’re
it. Then three weeks later I Who’s going to take his job? pals with the owner. (And Served with espresso martinis
went to Gymkhana and (Wild muntjac biryani with yes, he is very charming.)
thought everything on the pomegranate and mint raita And oh god that steak – yes “We all needs a good dose of
menu was just brilliant – is served) it really is amongst the best decadence every now and
proper curry. NR: What’s the most cutting in the city.” then. And when I’m in the
NR: Have you been to review you’ve ever read? mood, this eccentric
Gymkhana’s sibling glamourpuss is the only
destination,” said Marina of
MO: Adrian wrote some Bob Bob Ricard when
fantastically vicious reviews, awarding it eighth place in
but 99 times out of 100 the her ‘50 favourite UK
places deserved it. I love this restaurants’ (Giles’ review
biryani, it’s perfectly spiced wasn’t entirely
and so moreish. This is the complimentary and AA Gill
standout for me so far, the gave it no stars). Completely
one I’m coming back for unique in London restaurant
soonest. terms, Bob Bob Ricard’s
menu mixes Russian and
GC: I love it. Oh, god, I’m so British classics (beef
full. Someone just kill me. Wellington, chicken Kiev,
copious amounts of caviar and
A weary Giles has a lie down Champagne), in kitsch David Dancing, some sort of hotel in Disneyland. The kids
on a close-by banquette.  Collins-styled surroundings. mandarin-skinned Jayne are in bed, you’ve done
“It doesn’t make a lot of Torvill type, totters over and fucking Mickey Mouse all day
(Above) Wild sense, but I don’t need it to,” offers you a warm glass of and blokes in cutaway
muntjac biryani Marina concluded. “Anywhere industrial Champagne… waistcoats make you cocktails
with that has a button at every MO: Where’s your joy? with no actual booze in them.
pomegranate and table saying ‘press for Where’s your dancing-round- Then you hit a button and
mint raita Champagne’ is OK by me.” a-handbag-enjoying- Champagne comes.
GC: The greatest shock of my Lambrini joy? I was MO: But as soon as you come
(Opposite page) professional life was coming somewhere in Newcastle two in, it’s pavlovian, you can’t
BBR signature here, with its preposterous days ago and ordered a Porn help pressing for Champagne.
chocolate glory decorations and ridiculous Star Martini, which came GC: I like a bottle of vintage
costumes, writing it up as the with a little cutting of actual stuff at Christmas or special
biggest nought out of 10, and porn, and a side shot of occasions but I don’t
then going to some Lambrini. That was absolute understand.
restaurant awards and happiness, how could you not MO: I think you can be snarky
finding Marina and Fay love that? about other people’s idea of
[Maschler] both loved it. You GC: Do you know what this is what is joyful and fun!
push a button and one of the like to me? It’s like a bar in a
partners off Strictly Come

36 Noble Rot Noble Rot 37

5pm (Left) Golden syrup steamed sponge Giles on Marina’s choice:
with custard “It’s the dancing round
Rules, 34-35 Maiden Ln, London WC2E 7LB handbags section of the
www.rules.co.uk      restaurant critic industry.”

Popping the cork on some fizz Giles’ Pudding thought it was all shit – um, Marina on Giles’ choice:
to me signals that I’m about no. Bocca di Lupo was lovely, “I would happily die eating
to have fun. It’s as childish as Golden syrup steamed sponge I haven’t been for a while. Rules’ Welsh rarebit and
that. with custard and Welsh rarebit at Rules  Kiln I thought was terrific, necking their incredible
[BBR’s Signature Chocolate the aged lamb kebabs with martinis. Can I have
Pudding arrives] Served with more martinis cumin I thought were another martini?”
absolutely delicious. Kitty
MO: That’s so completely the The iconic Rules is the it matters to her to be the Fisher’s was great, the
1980’s. capital’s oldest restaurant first one in. Most of her Galician beef was as good as I
GC: That’s a Hatchimal. (founded in 1798) and the reviews begin, “I was remember and I’m glad that
(The waiter pours warm ideal place to finish the wearing a hard hat and there Marina, with the chip
chocolate over the egg, ultimate London meal. was no plumbing but I gather removed from her shoulder
causing it to melt and reveal Specialising in traditional the menu will contain and placed on the table for all
a chocolate centre.) British food – game, oysters, prawns...”, and that’s fine, but to view, had a very nice time.
GC: Oh, so it’s not a pies and proper puddings – I like being free to leave that Didn’t you. 
Hatchimal? this opulently appointed behind. I started before the
MO: It’s a Fabergé egg, Giles. aristocrat has counted internet, when reviewers had (Marina orders another
Look at that, it’s a cabinet of everyone from Charles actual power. Restaurateurs martini.)
curiosities. Dickens to Laurence Olivier like Chris Galvin would tell
NR: So you don’t like Bob Bob as customers. One of few top me, “I put my children looove. I looove them all! NR: Bob Bob Ricard and
Ricard any more now than end restaurants that serve through school thanks to your (drinks another martini) Rules?
when you first reviewed it, their full menu continuously review”. Now you wouldn’t
Giles? through the day (with a pretend to have that kind of NR: Giles? GC: The highlight of Bob Bob
GC: No. brilliant hideaway bar on the influence.  GC (Wolfing down the golden Ricard was leaving. I didn’t
MO: How can you tell from a first floor), the martinis are (A waiter arrives with a syrup steamed sponge like get it at the time, I don’t get
gilded pudding and a very starting to do their work as perfect golden syrup steamed his life depends on it): I it now. Rules? How could
good espresso martini – just the conversation centres sponge with custard, and a anyone not love this food?
what we need to give us a itself around Brexit, politics round of Welsh rarebit.)
wee boost after four other and whether or not Giles (poking his finger
restaurants? restaurant reviews are straight in the top of the hot
GC: This opened the week of becoming obsolete.  pudding) : Oww!
the banking crisis in 2008 and GC: I’ve never competed to Marina: Ha, serves you right!
I thought it was comic. be the first person to eat NR: Marina, what do you
And then I found out that my somewhere or to discover a think of all the restaurants
fellow restaurant critics restaurant. There are these today?
thought it was brilliant.  mystical bloggers that MO: Can I just say Bocca di
MO: That’s because some of ‘discover’ places, but writers Lupo: loooved. Can I just say
us know how to have fun. like Marina and I do Kiln: loooved. Gymkhana:
something else, and since loooved. Even bloody Kitty
Adrian Gill died there’s one Fisher’s: loooved. Bob Bob
fewer of those. There are Ricard: loooved and Rules:
other critics like Fay who,
because she’s in a paper
rather than a glossy, can get
into a restaurant earlier, and

38 Noble Rot Noble Rot 39

Burnt grain orecchiette with cime di rapa (turnip tops) To make the orecchiette (this act of love is only To make the dish
for the devoted, or those with time to kill):
By Jacob Kenedy 1. Prepare the cime di rapa – break off the larger
1. If making your own sort-of grano arso, preheat leaves and remove the dark green lamina from
Cucina povera – food of the poor – is root and more than everyday nourishment. Thus the oven to 200°C and roast the flour, stirring the tough stem, discarding the latter. Keep the
stem of much of Italy’s most exalted cooking chestnuts are expensive and sit in the every 15 minutes until it turns golden brown, smallest leaves attached to the broccoli-like
today. People talk about the ‘good old days’ speciality aisle of fine grocers, oysters are a then stirring every 5-10 minutes until it turns a inflorescences. Cut everything into forkful-
everywhere – nostalgia for better times helps privilege of the well-off, and grano arso is as deep red-brown colour, like a dark chestnut sized pieces, bearing in mind it will shrink when
us to preserve our traditions but also leads us, dear as gold dust. You might be able to find it skin. This will take some time. Take it out and cooking.
for better or for worse, along roads of retreat but if not, you can make your own leave to cool before using.
such as the one to Brexit. approximation by roasting fine wholemeal 2. The cime di rapa need to cook a good 10-12
flour or buckwheat flour to a dark nut brown. 2. For the dough, mix the semolina, grano arso minutes to become as soft and supple as
The good old days were not necessarily so and water and knead to a smooth, supple but Italians like them, and cook in the same water
good. Italy was once governed under a feudal The shape of pasta (orecchiette – little firm dough. (at the same time) as the pasta. So bring a large
system, where poor contadine would toil the ears), is also emblematic of cucina povera – it pan of well-salted water to the boil.
land for their lordly masters. It used to be is made with a wheat-and-water dough (no 3. Roll the dough into a sausage 1cm in diameter
common practice to burn field stubble after need for once-expensive eggs), and shaped (it may help to work in a few batches). Cut 3. If using dried orecchiette, which take an age to
grain harvest, to return the ash (potassium, with nothing but hands and a table knife. If across to make 1cm dumplings, and roll each cook, put them in the water at the same time as
phosphorus and other minerals) to the soil. you don’t fancy making your own, you can just into a hazelnut-sized ball. Take a cheap table the cime. If using fresh orecchiette (as one
In Puglia – in southernmost, poorest Italy – buy them – though they will be made from knife (like the kind they used to have at school should), start the cime off first, and then when
so poor were the contadine that, after the white (not burned) grain, the dish will still be – basic, rounded and bluntly serrated) and tender but not quite as soft as they could be,
fields were torched, they would scrabble in delicious and earthy. At Bocca di Lupo we make the orecchiette one by one. add the pasta and cook 2-3 minutes more until
the dirt for the few remaining kernels of serve them the most classic way, with cime di both are done.
charred wheat. This meagre sustenance was rapa – turnip tops (again, poor man’s food) 4. With the flat of the knife at 45° to the table, use
called grano arso – burned grain. – you could substitute with foraged dandelions a smearing action (away from your body) to 4. Also 2-3 minutes before the cime are done, put
or nettles, kale or simply broccoli florets, but press the dumpling out, using the rounded end the oil and garlic into a cold frying pan, wide
Today, in utter perversion, foods of the use proper cime if you can get them. of the blade. It helps to keep the knife a enough eventually to take all the pasta and
poor have become so sought-after as to cost constant height (3mm) above the work surface cime, and fry the garlic over a high heat till the
– to do this, hold the knife firmly against your very edges of one or two slices start to turn
Serves 4 as a main, 6-8 as a starter thumb, and slide your thumb across the golden. Take the pan off the heat and add the
worktop for stability, drawing it against, over chilli.
For the pasta (if not making your own orecchiette: and through the dough. The pasta should
400g fresh is best, 300g dried will do) stretch, flatten and curl around the blade, 5. Drain the pasta and cime when done – pasta al
becoming thinner in the middle than at the dente, cime absolutely not so – and put them
100g grano arso (to make your own: 100g edges, one of which should be slightly stuck to into the garlicky oil while still dripping with
buckwheat flour or fine-milled brown flour) the blade of the knife. Put your index finger plenty of their cooking water. Sauté over a high
gently against the centre of the little curl of heat until most of the cooking liquid has been
200g durum wheat semolina pasta, hold the loose edge carefully with your absorbed, and season with pepper (and salt if
200ml water thumb, and use the knife to simultaneously needed, which it wouldn’t be if your water was
invert the pasta over your fingertip and pull the correctly salted). Serve with grated Pecorino on
For the dish knife away (and detach it) from the pasta. The top.
pasta should now look like a little ear, with a
1kg bunch of cime di rapa slightly thick rim (the lobe), and a rough texture Classic variations:
Salt on the thinner centre, from where the knife
8 tbsp extra virgin olive oil pulled against the dough. This seems a lot of Sausage & cime di rapa: Take 300g Italian
4 big (or 6 medium) garlic cloves, thinly sliced words for a very small pasta! Orecchiette take sausage from the skin, crumble it and fry in one
½ tsp crushed dried chilli flakes (or more or less, some practise before they come out right, but third of the oil till browned. Then add the
then are as easy as pie. Repeat until all the remaining cold oil and the garlic, and proceed as
as you like) dough is used up, and look up a video online above.
Pepper before starting (it will help).
100g grated Pecorino Romano Anchovy: Add 8 chopped fillets of salted anchovy
5. Lay them out on a wooden surface to dry until along with the chilli. Serve with crispy
leathery, then cover and refrigerate or freeze breadcrumbs instead of Pecorino.
until ready to cook and serve.

40 Noble Rot Noble Rot 41





“My AA Gill was so gifted he could make
a cancer diagnosis sound like dinner and dinner

sound like a cancer diagnosis.”

Ilove AA Gill like I love my eyes and purse my lips as almost everything I know taking of offence has never I never met the man. He is that I loved despite – because
my dad. This is not a though in physical pain. about how to cook, and eat, been so politicised. He was my AA Gill in the way it is of – everything he did or said
question of magnitude and think about food as too clever to allow it to Susan Howe’s My Emily that I would never say or do.
but of kind: if you compare My dad loves a good something more than the happen, probably, but I’d Dickinson: all I have is the My AA Gill was so, so clever
the molehill I have for Adrian restaurant as much as the ingredients on your plate. hate to see some of his more writer, the work and what – and at his cleverest when he
with the mountain I have for next man, but it’s not Every week was a miniature controversial stances – or, they say to me. My AA Gill was making you forget it. My
my dad, you’ll see the soil in misleading to say that food – tutorial on how to modulate a simply, his unwillingness to wasn’t done yet: there were AA Gill was so gifted he could
both looks kind of the same. in all its plurality and piece of writing: how to play think too deeply about other still so many restaurants left make a cancer diagnosis
Despite a couple of points of splendour; the history and your hand and dazzle with people’s feelings – fetishised to review (my kingdom for sound like dinner and dinner
difference – one of dad’s the culture and the high- and your depth of knowledge and warped; to see him his take on StreetXO). My sound like a cancer diagnosis.
greatest passions is wine; I low end alike – is not when you need to; how to become a daddyish father AA Gill sort of was done, too: My AA Gill was a father
suppose you could say the something that gets him up in play dumb when it makes for figure to smug bluff types there is no more fitting figure – perhaps, in the bits of
same about Adrian but you’d the morning (he has told us a a better story; how to be who don’t agree with headstone than the incredibly my psyche I don’t like to
be mischaracterising it few times, and we now tease critical, but supportive, when everything Milo rare ten stars’ worth of praise prod, I’ve aligned him so
slightly – they are cut from him for it mercilessly, that his something in a restaurant’s Yiannopoulos says but would he bestowed on the Magpie closely with my dad that I’m
the same Savile Row desert island dish is a simple DNA is worth saving; how to defend to the death his right Café, in Whitby, a glorious sort of writing this for both of
worsted. For one thing, sandwich jambon beurre; he fillet – surgically, bloodlessly to say it. Adrian was willing final fuck you to a lifetime of them, which would certainly
they’re about the same age. would be far more interested – a place whose every facet is to say anything – it is why not eating overfussed, explain the lump in my throat
Perhaps because of this, they in the Romanée-Conti he’d an insult to the concept of everything you read about undernourished food in – and I will always measure
have a lot in common: both pair with it). And so Adrian hospitality. him in memoriam will be sterile, servile dining rooms. myself against him.
hunters, shooters, corduroy – through his column, and the laudatory – but there was My AA Gill was the funniest
wearers, wet-shavers, book-length collection of his Perhaps it is well and good always a caveat. It had to be man in the world. My AA Gill My AA Gill is dead, and my
owners of politics that best snippets, also called that he is now gone. This is a worth saying in the first was a slightly stern, slightly dad is alive; and I am so
sometimes cause me to close Table Talk (buy it now; it’s bad time to be alive, or feels place. remote, slightly scary man incredibly grateful, and so
worth it) – has taught me like it, and the giving and incredibly sad. 

“There is no more fitting headstone than the
incredibly rare ten stars’ worth of praise he bestowed on

the Magpie Café, in Whitby, a glorious final fuck you
to a lifetime of eating overfussed, undernourished food

in sterile, servile dining rooms.”

46 Noble Rot Noble Rot 47

BROWN There are a number of restaurants that I The basic margin in most establishments – not
PAPER BAG like – no names, no pack drill – but which all, some push it higher – is 70%. With
occasion a long and resonating groan when I wastage, this will slip to 68%. That means the
Faced with a dreary restaurant wine list open the wine list. There are a few problems. price on the list will be four times cost (£10
Rowley Leigh would much rather bring his own A bad list used to be simply an old-fashioned cost at a 70% margin will give you £33.33, add
mix of ‘brands’ – that is what we now call VAT at 20%, bingo 40 quid).
Restaurants are about fun. and drink, as the saying goes. ‘Sancerre’, ‘Chardonnay’ or ‘Bordeaux’, lazily
Conviviality. “Gaiety. Song- And yet I find this simple desire bought, usually purely on price and deeply Now, everybody has to make a margin.
and-dance. Here we go round difficult to satisfy. mediocre as a result. But bad lists come in That’s how it works: there is, as the old city
the mulberry bush”, as Eeyore I don’t completely many forms nowadays. There are lists where adage has it, nothing wrong with taking a
phrased it. This means good food – understand why wine you are familiar with the style of the wines profit. It’s the percentage bit, the one that
lovely food, if possible, but at least enthusiasts are not better but do not recognise the names of any of the glares like a pustulating boil on the
honest food – good wine and served in London, since the producers, often because the restaurateur has accountant’s spreadsheet that leads the
plenty of it and, above all, good British are supposed to be done a deal with a single supplier of dubious restaurateur astray. Margins should be
company. This last you have to such oenophiles. Since the merit who has offloaded all his turkeys at a weighted because cash is what counts and a 50
provide yourself. The other two middle ages, we have had a reduced price, a reduction not passed on to quid profit on a wine costing 50 quid is better
are the responsibility of the love affair with claret. the consumer. There are lists dominated by than a 20 quid profit on the £25 you have made
restaurateur, along with his Burgundy, Hermitage and heavy, oversweet and alcoholic wines popular on an £8 wine that is sold for £32, although the
obligation to smile occasionally and Hock have all had their day. with those with an unsophisticated palate. first only represents a margin of 50% and the
to serve unobtrusively and with We have welcomed successive There are the enthusiasts who serve only second 70%.
dispatch. The food these days is waves of immigration – Rioja, ‘natural’ wine whereby you play Russian
pretty good. It’s not perfect – don’t get Chianti and Pinot Grigio, Aussie roulette with a fickle wine that may be Intelligent and kind restaurateurs will
me started – but I can choose places fantastic, fizzy or farmyard, depending on the soften the margin in percentage terms in
where I like the food and don’t need to bring Shiraz and New World Sauvignon phases of the moon. favour of a higher cash margin but their name
my own sandwiches. The wine is a different Blanc – all with that welcome and is not legion. Places like Andrew Edmunds
matter. And I like wine. Those who know me tolerance for which we are renowned. Good However the biggest frustration of all is and the so-called wine bar of this sainted
know that I have as much, if not more, wine, once the preserve of the upper classes, simply a question of pricing. Whereas one journal are few and far between. There are, of
curiosity in what I am drinking than what I is now enjoyed by all: we are, like the French does not mind paying 25 quid on a perfectly course, a lot of restaurants with excellent lists
am eating and I have an ample appetite for and the Italians, a nation of wine drinkers. decent, fresh and well-chosen house wine – but those two stand out in terms of offering
the stuff. Sharing a good bottle or two is meat And yet restaurants still make it difficult to one that will have cost the purveyor six interesting, nay, terrific, wines of mature
drink well. pounds and you could buy for eight in a shop vintages at prices that actually tempt one into
– the pain increases as you go up the list and spending. Those two manage it not so much
experience the same hefty margin. A decent by investing and cellaring – although Andrew
Bourgogne blanc, say, from a good producer, does do a fair bit of that – because that ties up
wholesale price around £13, is now £60. too much capital. They do it by astute and
A village wine, costing £25, is nudging £100. clever purchasing and by tempting us to
spend more. A lot more sometimes.

Illustrations by J.B.R “There are a number of restaurants that I like
but which occasion a long and resonating groan

when I open the wine list.”

48 Noble Rot Noble Rot 49

Things are different in France and Italy. sold it to me or who craved indulgence when
Most good Italian restaurants will have a bringing their own in and leaving half of it
magnificent range of fine wines, often not just unfinished for us to mop up.
those of the region, including mature vintages.
In France the picture is a bit more scratchy Now that I have clambered most of the
but most places have bargains. A few weeks way over the fence and am a punter, I know
ago we shelled out €170 on a bottle of 2010 better. I no longer risk the pained look from
Raveneau Chablis Grand Cru ‘Blanchots’ restaurant managers when I flourish a bottle
because it seemed cheap and it was indeed from a brown paper bag. I always check in
magnificent. I looked it up later and found I advance and have been gobsmacked to
would have to pay £240 if I bought it here from discover that most restaurants simply don’t
a merchant. And that was in a three star countenance the BYO, with or without
restaurant (Le Petit Nice, in Marseilles). The corkage, even if I spend a fortune in their
next day we paid £160 for a 2007 Trimbach establishment. BYO is seen as an insult to
‘Clos Sainte Hune’ that the estimable Crump, their amour-propre and an Exocet aimed at
Richmond and Shaw are requesting £135 for. the hull of their profitability. It shouldn’t.
The next day we drank beer. It only means I am bringing something to the
party. With a good bottle of wine I will spend
When I had a restaurant I got fed up when more on food, I will buy something off your
trying to coax people to spend a bit more on list as well, tip generously and give you a
wine. “I’ve got better in my cellar and it’s taste if you are interested.
stuff that’s ready to drink” would be the reply.
Well perhaps. Half the time their manky old By all means charge me corkage, around
claret is knackered and they are too mean to the price of the house wine as long as you
drink the good stuff anyway, unless they are don’t charge more than £25 for that (and if you
showing off to other so-called connoisseurs. do, shame on you). By the way, I don’t need a
But I took it to heart. Bring it in, I told them. Riedel Burgundy glass to enjoy my Cathiard:
We charged a pitiful amount for corkage (£15), a decent high-sided glass that tapers slightly
decanted and served the stuff in swanky at the top will do very well. I’d like a stem
Riedels. and if you have a decanter to hand that can be
helpful occasionally. And, if you’re busy,
The thing is, I thought this was normal. I’ll decant it myself. Hell, lend me a corkscrew
I was surprised when people expressed and I’ll open the thing, probably more carefully
surprise that we didn’t mind their bringing in than you will.
a bottle. I was amazed at the courtesy of wine
merchants who would either buy their own There is one more essential quality in a
wines off me for three times the price they restaurateur: generosity. Give and you shall
receive.

“BYO is seen as an insult
to their amour-propre and an Exocet aimed at

the hull of their profitability. It shouldn’t.
It only means I am bringing something to the party.”

50 Noble Rot Noble Rot 51

The view from Chablis Grand Cru ‘Clos’
onto Grand Cru ‘Valmur’. 100%
Chardonnay grown on a two-hundred-
million-year-old seabed

WINES
FROM THE

ANCIENT
OCEAN

At its best Chablis is a French classic with a place
among the world’s finest wines. Dan Keeling meets

its new wave of winemakers

Photos by Juan Trujillo Andrades

northern Burgundy outpost on the that was until recently the exclusive bastion once covered the region two hundred million
border with Champagne, Chablis is of men. “If my grandfather François were years ago. Of all white wines, Chablis is the
better known for steely Chardonnay still alive I’m not sure I’d even be allowed in one Noble Rot returns to most often, not just
than as a beacon of gender equality – here,” she continues, inspecting the green- for another hit of briny, stony deliciousness,
something that is not lost on the next tinged wine against the cellar’s diffuse but as a continual source of contemplation and
generation of winemakers in the town. “Bad artificial light. “My aunt wanted to work at wonder. Science would have us believe that
luck for the men – they had a lot of the domaine but he told her that it was no Chardonnay doesn’t take on flavour
daughters,” chuckles Isabelle Raveneau place for a woman. I know many other compounds from the ancient fossilised oyster
amidst wafts of salty citrus aromas domaines where they still don’t want to hire beds on which it grows, but could it be
emanating from glasses of Chablis Grand Cru women in the vineyards because they think coincidental that Chablis tastes so oceanic?
‘Valmur’ in her family’s well-appointed they can’t do the job.” A classic match for shellfish and seafood
cellars. Now at the helm of Domaine François (think complementary aromas of citrus and
Raveneau – which along with Domaine René Macho attitudes may still exist in rural seaweed) great bottles can evolve for
et Vincent Dauvissat is long established as France, but there’s no doubting the fine decades, developing intricate layers of honey,
the most sought-after of the town’s multitude quality and relative value still offered by dairy and mushroom characteristics that
of producers – 33-year-old Isabelle is one of a Burgundy’s most northerly vineyards. perfectly complement earthy cheeses such as
number of young women including Eleni Located one-and-a-half hour’s drive south- Brie de Meaux. A glorious 1949 Domaine
Vocoret, Alice de Moor, Eve Grossot and east of Paris, close to the town of Auxerre, the Long-Depaquit ‘La Moutonne’ recently
Nathalie Oudin who are continuing a tradition land around Chablis is vast and open, rolling proved how Grand Cru Chablis’ acid structure
in wide oscillating waves like the sea that makes it an ideal candidate for long ageing,
whilst the chalky Kimmeridgian clay soils –
also shared with Sancerre and parts of (Above and left)
Champagne – help explain why it sometimes Chalky
tastes a little like a still version of a world- Kimmeridgian
class bubbly (try 2002 Dom Perignon as a clay marl soils
sparkling ringer for top Raveneau). Some make up the best
may dismiss Chablis as an overrated brand Chablis vineyards
name lacking the excitement and integrity of
the many newly (re)discovered vineyard Having been gifted 5ha of vines from
regions around the world, but they’re missing Édouard’s family domaine – Vocoret et Fils –
the point. Top-level Chablis is a French classic by his father Patrice at the end of 2012, the
whose next chapter is being written by a couple’s accomplished Chablis belies the fact
compelling new generation. their eponymous estate – Domaine Eleni et
Édouard Vocoret – is barely four vintages old.
“When I moved to Chablis in 2010 I wasn’t
a big fan of Chardonnay,” Eleni Vocoret
shouts over the sounds of French hip hop
group Nique Ta Mere (Fuck Your Mother)
whilst husband Édouard drives us to their
vineyards. “After about a week we were
invited to dinner and a friend gave me a glass
of 2005 Dauvissat Chablis Grand Cru ‘Clos’
without telling me what it was. As soon as I
tried it I said, “I want to make wine like this!”

(Left) Isabelle Raveneau, Domaine Raveneau cellars

54 Noble Rot Noble Rot 55







(Above) Vincent Dauvissat, Domaine Dauvissat cellars Noble Rot 63

NOBLE ROT’S CHABLIS TOP TEN
1. 2000 François Raveneau Chablis Grand Cru ‘Clos’
2. 2007 René et Vincent Dauvissat Chablis Grand Cru ‘Preuses’
3. 1949 Long-Depaquit Chablis Grand Cru ‘La Moutonne’
4. 2014 Eleni et Édouard Vocoret Chablis 1er Cru ‘Butteaux’
5. 2015 Alice et Olivier de Moor Chablis ‘L’Humeur du Temps’
6. 2002 Laurent Tribut Chablis 1er Cru ‘Beauroy’
7. 2008 Louis Michel Chablis Grand Cru ‘Clos’
8. 2010 Oudin Chablis 1er Cru ‘Vaucoupins’
9. 2014 Pattes Loup Chablis 1er Cru ‘Beauregard’
10. 2014 Patrick Piuze Chablis ‘Terroir de Chablis’

62 Noble Rot

SKILLS
T[FOINPEAYWTINHEE]
BILLS

From launching into pop’s collective
consciousness with Fight For Your Right in
1987 to the passing of founding band
member Adam Yauch in 2012, the Beastie
Boys were one of the greatest hip hop
groups in the world. Blending rap, funk and
punk with a surrealist sense of humour, their
sound was a colourful reaction to their
native New York City and an inspiration for
generations of alternative artists to come.
Dan Keeling meets Beastie Boys’ driving
force – and wine lover – Mike D at Rotter
HQ to talk Monty Python, moving to
California and his “cheap bastard” strategy
for drinking Burgundy on a budget.
Photos by BenjaminMcMahon

64 Noble Rot

re you a ‘cat person’ LA [Malibu] was about two Noble Rot: How’s your Apple journey. We’re interested in
or a ‘dog person’? things. One is the comfort Radio show going? having the experience,
Here at Noble Rot aspect, but the other was the Mike Diamond: I liken it to my because music is experiential.
we’re unashamedly cat – far fact that New York has 13-year-old wish fulfilment.
too selfish to follow anything changed so much culture- Since I was 13 I’ve been NR: Opening a bottle is a bit
about with a pocket full of wise there’s not that many buying records and saving up like a live show in that it’s
scrunched-up old Asda bags records being made there money to buy more records so always slightly different each
without significant payoff – anymore. It’s prohibitively the fact that I now get paid to time. Sometimes you’ll get
but like professing to be a expensive for things like play them means I’ve actually those bottles, like gigs, that
‘New York person’ or a ‘Los recording or artist studios, so put that to fairly good use in just totally explode…
Angeles person’ we love that’s all shifted west.” my life. When Apple asked
reading into the clichéd me to do a radio show I didn’t MD: It’s the same confusing “I’ve always thought music and
generalisations of It’s been four years since say yes initially as I didn’t feel thing. You’ll play the same comedy go together really well – like
diametrically opposed Noble Rot first interviewed like I had an idea, and I didn’t song night after night, but
lifestyle choices. Los Mike D over email for our want to do it just for the sake why is it better certain nights the Beatles and Peter Sellers,
Angeles: land of broken debut instalment, so finally of doing it. What came than others? It’s who you’re a great combo, up there with the
dreams, smog, Scientology, meeting one of our long- together is just what I like to with and all those other
new-age mumbo jumbo, standing musical heroes in do: dialogues with people, variables. The groups that I finest wine and food pairings.”
Hollywood, CHiPS and the person for lunch at our mostly artists, sometimes love are the groups that will
perpetually smug Will.i.am. Bloomsbury restaurant feels comedians, sometimes pro be brilliant one night but a thought music and comedy go MD: All three of us grew up on
New York: authentic, strangely like a kind of surfers, anyone interesting complete disaster the next. together really well – like the Monty Python’s Big Red Book
relentless, home of Woody homecoming. For music because they’re accomplished I’m not really interested in Beatles and Peter Sellers, a – which as we all know is blue
Allen, Keith Haring, Robert lovers, the Beastie Boys have in their field. A lot of my the bands that play a great combo, up there with – and which, dare I say it, was
de Niro and the birthplace of remained a constant source of relationships, for better or consistently good set night the finest wine and food a really important book for us.
hip hop. The Big Apple. The great records and irreverent worse, romantic and platonic, after night. pairings. It sounds a silly thing to say
Mutt’s Nuts. The East Coast entertainment for well over are built on dialogue around NR: Do you feel the same NR: What comedy did you about a book that was funny,
has always had the edge over 25 years, a longevity that’s music and with music, so about wine? guys grow up on? but that’s the point, that it was
the West – always has, the envy of the majority of that’s what the show is. And MD: Unfortunately that’s why just funny and irreverent.
always will. Capiche? their peers. Having finally that’s where wine fits into I like Burgundy so much – it’s
“I’m over the hustle of stopped making music this. I think wine is also in got real inconsistency, in a
New York – or rather I like together when founding band that experiential realm. good way. Real high moments
the hustle but I don’t like the member Adam ‘MCA’ Yauch NR: Do you thinks aspects of of total brilliance and others
grind,” admits Mike Diamond sadly passed away from wine appreciation are of total undrinkability.
as images of the Statue of cancer in 2012, Mike D has relatable to music NR: The Beastie Boys always
Liberty relocating to the been focusing on DJing and appreciation? had a great sense of humour.
City of Angels course presenting his own Apple MD: Musicians are potentially Are a lot of artists missing
through Noble Rot’s mind. “I Music radio show, producing good wine tasters – often that?
grew up in Manhattan and I and collaborating with artists wine drinkers, but potentially MD: Yeah, but that’s always
went to school in Brooklyn, such as Cassius, Slaves and good wine tasters because been the case. I’ve always
and that’s where my life was Portrait of a Man, and surfing we’re interested in the
until recently,” he continues with his sons around their
in his characteristic eastern home in sun-blessed Malibu.
drawl. “For me, moving to Oh, and drinking baller
Burgundies of course.

66 Noble Rot Noble Rot 67

(Left) 1992 F.E Trimbach Riesling “Musicians are potentially good wine tasters
‘Clos Sainte Hune’ because we’re interested in the journey.

(Below) Smoked eel with mash and We’re interested in having the experience, because
parsley sauce music is experiential.”

(Right) 1995 Domaine Dujac
Charmes-Chambertin

That was something that I MD: Yeah, because with print financial ruin, but then you drink them side-by-side it Patrick Cappiello, who does MD: It was a consciousness
had and I loved and I couldn’t magazines it’s this idea of guys also created this would get crushed by this, no Rebel and Pearl & Ash? thing. I was touring and
compare it to anything else. having to distribute it. So restaurant so… question. He paved the way to some seeing the ways animals were
It was literally a genre unto we’d send out however many (1992 F.E Trimbach Riesling NR: Where do you like eating degree, and he was really being treated on the planet
its own island, that put the copies and only get paid for ‘Clos Sainte Hune’ is poured. out in Los Angeles? smart about it. It’s not about and I didn’t want to be part of
idea into our minds very early this many copies… None of Smoked eel with mash and MD: I’m biased because a selling first growths – that cycle. Then I had kids
on – don’t try to make stuff us came with a degree in parsley sauce is served). friend of mine is the chef and although he does have some and I had to sort out some
like other people are making, advertising sales, that’s not MD: (Sniffing ‘Clos Sainte proprietor of two vintage first growth protein sources. And Malibu’s
just make something that’s all something any of us wanted Hune’) This is really good. restaurants, Gjelina and Bordeaux, but it’s not about great, we have our own
the way out. to do. Distribution is a NR: Do you drink much Gjusta. He’s from New Château Lafite for thousands chickens so that takes care of
NR: Were you the driving nightmare. You’re shooting Riesling? Jersey but he understands of dollars on his list, it’s about the eggs, and every once in a
force behind [the Beastie fish in a barrel and you’re not MD: I don’t but I love it – the whole West Coast eating having an off-vintage of a while I can travel up the coast
Boys’ magazine project] getting paid – it sucks. I think Alsace is a different thing. He spends so much wine you’ve never heard of and spear my own fish. I’m
Grand Royal Magazine? NR: It’s not the best way to animal. I like the budget time sourcing everything, not from the Côtes-du-Rhône.
MD: Yeah, I have to take the get rich. version of this wine which is just farmers’ market stuff NR: Do you cook much at
credit, or blame depending on MD: That’s why I laughed Freddie Emile, as I like to – he knows the people who home?
how you want to put it. when I came to Noble Rot. call it [F.E Trimbach ‘Cuvée raise the animals and catch MD: In Malibu, for sure. I
NR: Was it time-consuming The bad news is you left the Frederic Emile’]. It’s also the fish. wouldn’t say I’m the most
putting together an music business to start a wine really good, but if you were to NR: What about wine bars? accomplished of chefs, I’m a
independent magazine? ’zine, which I think is a poetic MD: Wine is tricky. It’s simple cook. Salad is my best
thing and a quick road to getting better in LA but in area, but I’m a long-time
New York there’s so much vegetarian – I eat fish now,
more. It’s funny, it hasn’t but years in the vegetarian
really happened in LA yet game has honed my salad
but in New York, I think in skills. I was vegetarian for
the last five years that’s been about 20 years and then I
a model, like you guys have started eating fish and eggs
done here, like having again.
investors invest in the form NR: What was the impetus for
of their cellar. Do you know you turning vegetarian?

68 Noble Rot Noble Rot 69

not very good at it, but I’ve they’re such a good producer MD: It’s very analogous. I announced itself as
friends who are and it’s that you’re still getting great think it’s why people like monumental, like listening to
something I’m hoping to get fruit in there, you’re getting James Murphy [LCD your first Led Zeppelin
better at. the same oversight in the Soundsystem, co-owner of album. There was nothing
(1995 Domaine Dujac winemaking. But, you know, The Four Horsemen in subtle about it being
Charmes-Chambertin is apples and oranges. This Brooklyn] and myself cross monumental, it was so
poured. Gnocchi with Charmes-Chambertin is over into wine. James and I complex and pleasing and
trompette mushrooms, vineyard specific, only the top are into very different wines, drinkable, it gave you
chestnut and cavolo nero is clusters. And I’ll do that with but we mutually respect. My everything you wanted in
served). whites also. Like Domaine heart is in Burgundy. Alsace terms of age, but without
NR: Do you drink more red Raveneau and Dauvissat – I’ll isn’t a place that I know a lot losing any of the freshness.
wine than white? buy the AC Chablis, you can’t but it’s a place that produces Only the best wines can
MD: No, I’m pretty equal go wrong. They’re more one of my favourite wines of withstand years of the gentle
opportunity because of my satisfying than single- all time, period. So that’s infusion of oxygen and still
diet. People overlook the vineyard wines from a lesser where I am while James is come out smelling like roses.
complexity and substantial producer within Chablis. into natural wines, mostly NR: What was the bottle that
abilities of white, like it’s NR: Where do you buy your from the Loire. More and got you really into wine?
something just to be quaffed. wines from? more I appreciate Bordeaux. MD: There’s multiple bottles,
And red wine is something MD: It’s a combo. There’s a At first I was too punk to like it’s a journey. But the first
that’s paired more with couple of online dealers, and a Bordeaux because of the time I discovered drinking
mains. I mean, look at the couple of shops I buy from a whole thing about Robert wine more seriously I was on
colour of this wine, it’s so… lot. I don’t do the auction Parker giving it all these a surf trip with some friends
light, in a good way. Like a thing because I’m afraid I’ll points, and the value, but who really knew about it and
perfect way. become like a drug addict, not Bordeaux ages so well. That’s we had a 1993 or 1994 Ridge
NR: Who are your favourite out of the consumption angle, also what I learned from going Monte Bello. Although I’m
Burgundy producers? but purchasing. I feel like I to south-west France to surf, not really a big California
MD: I actually buy quite a bit spent so much of my life where they’re drinking wine Cabernet person I completely
of Domaine Dujac. Because searching for records, and if I from châteaux you’ve never loved it.
I’m a musician I have this start going to the wine heard of, really good vintages NR: What’s your earliest
formula, which I shouldn’t auctions I’ll become a kid in a like ’09 and ’10, it’s drinkable childhood memory?
give out in a wine publication candy store, like I missed young and really good. MD: My first vivid one was
because it’s going to make me that lot and oh, I should’ve NR: If you could drink any when I was five years old and
look like a cheap bastard, but gotten that, then look bottle again what would it it was Christmas Eve
I am. I think there’s through the next 12 auction be? morning. Even though I’m
something to be said for if you catalogues to see if that wine MD: There’s definitely a few from a genetically Jewish
buy Domaine Dujac Morey- comes up again… of those, they’re all gonna background we celebrated
Saint-Denis, it’s not going to NR: An endless cycle of be super snobby wines Christmas, and I was so
be a Grand Cru wine, but spending too much money on which I didn’t purchase on excited. We were staying in a
wine and records. my own dime, so I apologise. house out on Long Island and
(Right) Dan Keeling and Mike Diamond, 1973 DRC Montrachet was a
11th November 2016 wine that immediately

70 Noble Rot Noble Rot 71

I slept in a little barn with my to think there’s souls and that we got to tour for so SGOING Just for one please.” – How many times
brothers. We figured out that dimensions, that there’s long. So we got to share that O have I uttered this? A lot. I love it. I’m
Santa had left our presents in endless complexities. I’m with a more intimate L well up for this solo dining lark, me.
another barn so we woke up very comfortable with it, I’m community of – this sounds O I’m always surprised at how many times
in the dark and walked always curious about that. corny – but a more intimate I’m the only one dining alone in London, even
through the snow. All my NR: What was the most community of fans who kind Zeren Wilson when it’s a ‘dining at the bar’ kind of set-up.
early memories come from dangerous place in New York of grew with us and came to on the pleasures of Somewhere like Soho’s Bocca di Lupo
travel, maybe that’s why I when you started the Beastie our shows. That was a screams out for the impromptu solo swing-by,
still travel so much. I Boys in the ’80s? consistent buzz. The highs, a table for one the kind of impulsive “sod it, I’m going in”
remember being in Italy MD: When we started going they’re different, that’s the while walking past: the thrum of the open
when I was six really vividly. past Avenue A in the Lower luxury of making a lot of kitchen, the clatter of pans, the insistent hum
My dad would travel a lot for East Side, when I was a kid of different records at a lot of of a full dining room. I’m a sucker for spotting
work as he was in art and the 13 years old, I was fucking different times. a solitary bar stool available, and instantly
contemporary art world scared. We were going to NR: Does anything beat the coveting it, knowing that the chances of
wasn’t based in New York at projects, which would be buzz of a live show? Maybe grabbing it are high. Call it a weakness, if you
that point. council estates in English the first time you heard your like. Who else wants to dine alone in a full
NR: Did that help you develop speak, and certain blocks were record played on the radio, or restaurant? Well, um, me. I’ll take it.
a love for European culture? like drug supermarkets, it was getting a number one?
MD: It gives me a comfort a different reality. And then MD: Those things are more If I didn’t enjoy eating alone, if I waited for
with it that I’m grateful for, when we started getting more surreal. Something that beats friends and timings, arrangements and
and maybe a fascination. I accomplished in hip hop we the buzz of playing live would diarising, I wouldn’t get around to many of
feel an emotional connection stared going up to the Bronx, be having children. the restaurants that London’s relentless
with it because I associate it to Disco Fever or wherever, NR: Lastly, will there ever be dining scene continues to spawn. If there’s
with my dad. My dad died and that was another eye- any more Beastie Boys nobody available, I’m still going. The most
when I was a teenager so opening experience. That shit releases? memorable example is when I had a
every time I go back, was real. MD: The band was a reservation for a visit to Chez Panisse in
especially to France, I NR: Was the Bronx rougher combination of the three of us Berkeley, California. Then the unforgivable:
associate my time there in a than Brooklyn? and I’m not interested in blown off by the dinner date. Eh? What? The
fond way with him. To his MD: You couldn’t even go to pursuing a lesser result of most treasured reservation of the trip, and
credit he really was a loving Brooklyn because hip hop what we had. There’s some I’m faced with the very real possibility of
father and I think that was a didn’t exist in Brooklyn, things we’re working on that having to cancel. Stuff that. Not happening.
big takeaway for me – the people would just get too involve the band that are not Yes, I’m driving down on my own from
example that he left me with. wild. musical, but although I don’t Sonoma County (an hour or so), and yes I will
I remember and see him in NR: What’s been the best part want to rule things out I’m honour that reservation, and no I won’t go
this loving father mode. of the journey so far? not interested in pursuing the back to the UK with the “I almost went to
NR: Do you believe in an MD: The most immediately band in a diminished form. Chez Panisse” story. Begone, foul and
afterlife? gratifying part was the fact But never say never. lingering disappointment.
MD: Yeah, I do. I don’t really
know the specifics, but I like It turned out to be one of the most
memorable meals ever, which saw me
72 Noble Rot chatting to Sally Clarke of Clarke’s in Notting
Hill (a Chez Panisse alumnus), drinking
Pierre Gimonnet Premier Cru ‘Cuis’ all night
(my favourite Blanc de Blancs grower, and
one I’ve sold to restaurants), and cashing in
on the glorious feeling of liberation after the
second glass of fizz, when the decision had
clearly been made that I wasn’t driving
back, staying instead in the motel next door.
Oh happy days. Russian River Valley
Chardonnay and Pinot Noir began to flow…

A phrase which still reverberates, and
neatly sums up the pleasure to be had from
the solitary meal, came while dining alone at

Noble Rot 73





“Even then Kermit Lynch described the Gentaz as ‘old style’ bunches, rejecting fining and collectors snapping up his who knows a thing or two
filtration and only using new wines and widespread about drinking the wines of
in his understated pitch, recommending it to customers oak barrels for maturation, acknowledgement that he legends both past and future,
‘that like to chew on their wines’ unless they were prepared are now widely practiced had been underrated while he suspects that Cornas’ Thierry
throughout Burgundy, and was still alive. The death Allemand could be next. “He
to cellar them for a decade or more.” the death effect has led to his effect took hold. In the same wants to retire and there isn’t
wines becoming the most year (2005), Jacky Truchot an obvious heir to the
he was alive? For a start, his Syrah, but he was far from old-school Northern Rhône expensive in the world (a case retired with very little in the domaine. I wish he would
wines “were always the only vigneron working Syrah was placed firmly on of Jayer’s 1978 Richebourg way of fanfare. Although never quit, but change is a
wonderfully balanced, with this way back then. Noël the endangered species list. sold for £211,500 at auction Truchot had exported some part of life.” Parr also points
the stamp of his Côte Brune Verset in Cornas was another Two of their contemporaries recently). As with the wine to the US, he was far to Jean-Louis Grippat, who
terroir”, according to Rhône traditionalist, and someone – Auguste Clape and Joseph Northern Rhône legends, from an illustrious name retired in 2000 (selling his
expert John Livingstone- else whose wines have shot Jamet – were able to pass prices of Jayer’s wines compared to many of his vines to Guigal), as another
Learmonth, and they have up in value since his final their batons on to sons that weren’t always thus. Kermit colleagues on the Côte de Northern Rhône producer
aged superbly (his 1985 and vintage in 2006 and death in respect the traditional Lynch was selling the 1978 Nuits (such as Engel) and whose wines are sorely
1989 Côte Brune were on 2015. “Verset always had the techniques, but beyond them Richebourg for $70 per bottle dismissed by critic Clive missed. John Livingstone-
sensational form at Rotter respect of his peers, but he and a couple of others (on the same offer that Coates as producing wines Learmonth agrees, saying
HQ recently). Just as just quietly went about his (Franck Balthazar, Pierre featured the Gentaz and that were “on the light side wistfully that “Grippat was a
important are the traditions business,” says Livingstone- Benetière), it seems that the Trollat 1978s) and UK and variable in quality”. The major loss to the vigneron
that they represent – they Learmonth, “making his style of the region’s wines importer Roy Richards Domaine Truchot-Martin community and his wines
were vinified in what today’s wines in relative obscurity may have changed forever. remembers that “the real wines undoubtedly have a were very, very good”.
winemakers would consider and never wanting to be the For the next generation, the price hike came after his hardcore following, and as
prehistoric conditions. Whole main man. He would be genius of Marius Gentaz death, sadly for him”. each cork gets pulled they So who else is likely to
bunches of Sérine (a finicky amazed at the prices his couldn’t compete with the Incredibly, even at the early edge closer to extinction, but retire or be inaugurated into
local clone of Syrah that is wines are fetching now.” “cheap thrills” that excited rates Richards found it tough even so it is staggering to the great confrérie in the
now seldom seen) underwent Likewise, Trollat’s St Josephs the critics but so exasperated to attract buyers in an era now see his Clos de la Roche sky? Jean-François Fillastre
a prolonged fermentation in were rarely seen as anything Kermit Lynch. that was a difficult market for changing hands for over of Domaine du Jaugauret in
open-top wooden fermenters more than good examples of grower Burgundy. “The first £2000 per bottle. St Julien? Lorenzo
and concrete tanks before their relatively modest A couple of hours’ drive vintage we offered was 1980 Accomasso in Piedmont?
maturation in ancient appellation. The man himself from Côte-Rôtie, in the and it did not sell easily. I Of course, the sad but Anselme Selosse in
demi-muid barrels, resulting was “a real character and Burgundian village of trotted around London with inevitable thing about the Champagne? Many
in wines that emphasised incredibly sociable. He used Vosne-Romanée, one of the sample bottles, bewildered Dead Vignerons Society is prospective members of this
savoury before sweet and to love opening bottles for Dead Vignerons Society’s that customers who I that it is only a matter of time elite group of winemakers
structure over seduction. friends and those that would most famous members made respected did not jump at it.” before a new member joins have plenty of years left, and
With time, they blossomed stop by,” remembers John, his name by rejecting its ranks. Henri Bonneau and doubtless there are
into beautifully complete who describes the wines as tradition and challenging the By the mid-2000s grower Stanko Radikon passed away candidates who haven’t even
wines that were the essence “sometimes a bit rustic, but conventions of his region, Burgundy was a far easier last year, Jacques Puffenay risen to prominence yet.
of the 1.2ha that Marius always honest”. When these inspiring a new generation of sell and prices of the wines retired after the 2014 vintage Whoever it is, their wines will
committed his life to farming. three labels (and others, such vignerons in the process. had increased. Even so, the and rumours abound that live on and their legacy
as Dervieux-Thaize and Henri Jayer’s ideas, such as abrupt passing of respected legendary Loire Valley celebrated for many years to
Gentaz may have been the Marcel Juge) ceased to exist, strictly limiting yields, vigneron Philippe Engel domaine Clos Rougeard is come – even if those of us left
master of this old style of destemming 100% of the (whose grandfather René had about to fall to the hands of down here will need a king’s
mentored Henri Jayer back men in suits. Sommelier and ransom to drink them.
in the 1940s), led to a rush of winemaker Rajat Parr, a man

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Emilee Tombs takes a day trip to I first became aware of this mecca for
West Mersea’s seafood mecca, seafood fans after reading a review by Jay
The Company Shed Rayner, who waxed lyrical about the plump
native oysters and cold seafood platters,
Photos by Juan Trujillo Andrades groaning under the weight of sweet pink crab,
barnacled freshly slaughtered lobster and
thick mist drapes over the train the tide times before you set out. But The leggy langoustines. He’s broken the first rule relaxing in plastic trays by the toilets. It’s
station at Colchester. It’s mid- Company Shed, located on the wetlands of the of food writing, I thought, as I booked my tumbledown in the best possible way, a
December. Mild, and yet everything Essex estuary, is no ordinary lunch spot. train to Mersea. Never tell the masses about no-bookings spot that’s perennially popular
looks a bit grey and uninviting as Noble Rot Twice a day the Strood Channel rises and your favourite spot, or you’ll likely never get come rain or shine or, in the case of our visit, a
disembarks the 11.25 from London Liverpool floods the only access point from the mainland, a table again. That was in 2007, and true to thick mist. There’s no pomp, pageantry or
Street to make our way towards a line of leaving anyone without a boat stranded until this maxim, The Shed’s clientele has table service, not even napkins grace the wax
waiting taxis. “Have you two checked the tide it subsides around three hours later. Perhaps, broadened, counting not just Mersea Island tablecloths. There is however fish, a lot of
times?” asks the driver as if it’s the most though, that’s the draw if there’s nothing to locals as customers, but groups of wide-eyed fresh fish and seafood, and all the tools of the
common tumble of words he owns. “If you’re do here but devour plate after plate of locally Londoners who are happy to take a two-hour trade, plus the famous oysters, dredged up by
heading to the island, I give it about half an caught oysters accompanied by bottles of train and a half-hour taxi to scoff oysters at seventh- and eighth-generation oystermen
hour before we hit the five-metre mark, and your favourite wine. £1.20 a pop.
then you’ll be stuck there until four,” he
warns matter-of-factly. When planning a As the taxi pulls up at the end of the
lunch, it’s not too common to have to check causeway and a weather-beaten clapboard
shed in black-and-white emerges from the fog
I realise that ‘The Shed’ isn’t just an
endearing nickname. At the back of a watery
boatyard, behind the sails of vessels that will
provide the day’s menu, the wind whistles
through the front door, the clientele are
wearing jackets, and the crustaceans are

(Above) Norma carries
two dozen local gigas
rock and Colchester
native oysters

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84 Noble Rot Noble Rot 85

are cooked overnight, ready to be served up creamier, more complex on the palate, and a
the following day on one of The Shed’s famous perfect match for the main event of lobster
seafood platters. cooked in the shell. Its perfectly pink flesh is
just a touch overcooked, but is much meatier
It’s at this point that I realise our grave and sweet than any I’ve had in the capital.
error: we forgot to bring bread. It turns out,
however, that a camera and a notepad can get Hours slowly pass and we manage to polish
you places in West Mersea, as a bright-eyed off everything we ordered. It’s 4pm and the
blonde in a Breton top and with sparkling, place is still full, a birthday party of
studded ears trots over and conspiratorially Scandinavians in one corner by the shower
delivers half a baguette and a plate of butter. curtains that mask the lobster buckets, a
Having lived on Mersea Island for thirty couple polishing off a bottle of Prosecco in the
years, The Company Shed is an institution for other corner, some passing trade as locals
Vivianne and her friends, who are feasting on duck in and out to buy their dinner from the
cold platters of crab and crevettes washed wet fish counter. We’ve had the best escape
down with bottles of English sparkling Brut. from the city one could hope for, and now that
Intrigued by our camera and questions, the tide is out it’s time to make our way back
Vivianne could think of little worse than to the station. Outside, we spot a local
dining at The Shed without something to mop fisherman in a dog-eared sweater and waders
up all those delicious juices, and is more than traipsing through the mud to tend to his sails.
happy to trade her leftovers for our story. Wholly satisfied, but wondering when the
next trip to the island might occur, we add a
Feeling celebratory as a second plate of couple of tubs of mackerel pâté to the bill, and
crab cakes emerges steaming from the kitchen, head back out into the grey.
we open the 2014 Premier Cru ‘Butteaux’ –

Richard Haward and his son Bram. them on a majolica platter with a simple
The Shed’s most endearing factor, if not wedge of lemon for garnish and delivers them
to us with a knowing grin. A pair of deep fried
that it’s staffed by smiling generations of the crab cakes, busting at the seams with spiced
Haward family and friends, has to be the flesh, follow shortly after, and next a plate of
strict BYO policy, which extends from wine to green lip mussels baked with a parmesan
bread, butter and anything more exotic than crust. Finally – for round one at least –
vinegar and mayonnaise. We’ve brought beetroot-cured gravadlax: two enormous
along a couple of bottles of Chablis from Eleni fillets, proudly paraded from the kitchen with
and Édouard Vocoret (see Wines From The the explanation that the curing is done just
Ancient Ocean, p52), a young, enterprising down the road, at The Shed’s sister
couple who currently produce two cuvées, one restaurant.
of which is a premier cru. We start with the
village-level ‘Bas de Chapelot’ – a bracingly After devouring these we get curious and
fresh and zesty mouthful with lots of lovely follow one of the kitchen staff out of the heavy
minerality – sloshed into two mismatched back doors to find her hovering over a large
glasses from a shelf on the back wall, along steaming silver pot with Beth, a young West
with a plastic bucket filled with ice. Mersea resident who works here between
university terms. Lifting the lid on the metal
Half a dozen native oysters arrive quickly, barrel creates an eruption of steam that hides
shucked by a lady of around 60 years, dressed a dozen basking crabs. Pulled off the boats in
in a green wool crew neck, nautical striped Devon and shipped up to Mersea the previous
apron and several gold chain necklaces. After evening, these giant ochre-speckled creatures
deftly prying open the catch she arranges

86 Noble Rot Noble Rot 87







Sabayon Vanilla ice cream Squab pigeon Baby beetroot

1 tsp of water 500ml whole milk 4 squab pigeon (whole ‘au sang’ with offal) 2 bunches baby mixed beetroot
1 whole egg 80g whipping cream (red, orange, white)
2 egg yolks 2 Tahitian vanilla pods (scored, seeds scraped 1. Crown the pigeons by removing the legs,
45g sugar wings, necks and offal. 1. Cook the baby beetroot in simmering water
out and kept) until tender.
1. Warm the water and pour it over the egg, 6 egg yolks 2. Keep the neck, wings and trim for a stock.
yolks and sugar. 120g caster sugar 3. Reserve the livers for sauce and the legs for 2. Drain and peel off the skin.
3. Keep cool until needed.
2. Whisk well and then continue over a bain- 1. Heat the milk and cream with the vanilla pods cooking.
marie until you achieve a good-volume and seeds. 4. Temper the pigeon by letting it come to room To finish
sabayon. The sabayon should be warm.
2. Bring the milk, cream and vanilla to simmer temperature for 1 hour before cooking. Pigeon crowns and legs
3. Using a mixer, continue whisking on high and then infuse for 10 minutes off the stove. 5. Cook the legs for 20 minutes at 120°C and the Butter
speed for 5 minutes. Duck fat
3. Whisk the egg yolks and sugar together. crowns for 10 minutes. Salt and pepper
4. Quickly and gently fold the sabayon into the 4. Pour the infused milk and cream over the egg 1 radicchio tardivo
ganache. Beetroot purée Olive oil
yolks and sugar. Sherry vinegar
5. Pour the folded mixture into the baked pastry 5. Slowly and gently heat the mixture to 80°C. 500g red beetroot, ‘crapaudine’ variety 50g peeled pistachios
case. Salt and pepper
The mix should start to thicken. Sherry vinegar 1. Grill the pigeon legs until the skin is crisp and
6. Cook the tart at 170°C for 8 minutes. It should 6. Pass the mixture through a sieve and chill it brush with butter.
soufflé up and have a wobble to it. 1. Wrap the beetroot in tinfoil and bake at 160°C
down quickly in the fridge. until soft. 2. Heat a frying pan with a teaspoon of duck fat
7. Remove from the oven and leave to cool 7. Churn the cooled custard in an ice cream until almost smoking.
down. The tart can hold up for a few hours. 2. Leave to cool slightly and scrape off the skin.
machine. 3. Using a food processor, blitz the beetroot 3. Carve the pigeon breasts off the crowns and
quickly colour the skin in a pan.
Roast squab pigeon and crispy leg from Mesquer flesh until smooth.
with beetroot, radicchio tardivo, pistachio and offal sauce 4. Season with salt and pepper and a splash of 4. Heat up the beetroot purée and warm the
baby beetroots.
Inspired by Mikael Jonsson at Hedone sherry vinegar.
5. Pass through a sieve and reserve until 5. Cut some pieces off the radicchio and drizzle
I worked with Mikael when he first opened It is such a pleasure to eat this dish. with olive oil and sherry vinegar.
Chiswick’s Hedone restaurant over five years The way the pigeon is cooked creates a crispy needed.
ago. I now try to eat there twice a year and skin and a plump and juicy pink breast. The 6. Warm the offal sauce gently (don’t take it past
am always blown away by his unfaltering components achieve perfect harmony: the rich Offal sauce 70°C or it will become grainy) and spoon into
progression and refinement. It makes those offal sauce, the potatoes smoked delicately the middle of the plates.
early years seem rough around the edges by with juniper, the vibrant pistachio and parsley Pigeon necks, wings, carcasses and livers
comparison, but there’s something very condiment. In my version, I omit the potatoes Butter 7. Place the pigeon breasts on top of the sauce
special about being part of the start of and condiment, replacing them with beetroot, Sherry vinegar and the legs to the side.
someone’s journey and witnessing a chef crushed pistachios and radicchio tardivo – a Salt and pepper
laying down the foundations of his cuisine. delicate and bitter leaf. I love this earthy, 8. Finish with the purée, baby beetroots and
Mikael’s squab pigeon feels particularly wintery combination. I serve the pigeon as 1. Make a quick pigeon stock by roasting the radicchio.
representative of that time, and although his Mikael used to, with the claw still attached to necks, wings and carcasses and cover with
pursuit of perfection has seen this recipe the leg, encouraging the guest to pick it up, water. 9. Scatter with a few pistachio nuts to finish.
evolve further still, the original incarnation dip in the offal sauce and gnaw. Pure primal
continues to delight. pleasure. 2. Simmer for 1 hour and pass through a sieve. Serves 4
3. Sauté the pigeon livers in butter until coloured

but still pink and deglaze with sherry vinegar.
4. Using a stick blender, process the pigeon

livers with 100ml of the warm pigeon stock
and season the sauce with salt, pepper and a
splash of sherry vinegar.
5. Pass through a sieve and taste. The sauce
should be fairly thick and have a touch of
acidity to it. Keep it warm.

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Chill Out bistro that became such an innovative and In the same way that white wines are
inspirational mentor to so many of Europe’s typically served too cold, reds arrive too
Serving red wine the at the right temperature most exciting chefs today. So well were things warm. Alas, only specialist sites have the
done so differently – it was a meal that capacity for proper storage – i.e. a fridge
Words by Adam Coghlan  |  Illustration by Kris Chau changed my life.  which is not too cold.

Paris, 2007. I was sitting alone in a the circumstances) it’s fair to say that a dose of The pork, I would learn with maturity, was Whilst there is a fairly even consensus
beautiful, bare-boards restaurant – the vulnerability contributed to the suspicion that a piece of acorn-fed presa Ibérica. To have among those who work in the trade that
kind from which the city’s idiosyncratic greeted firstly a piece of medium-rare pork cooked it anything beyond pink would have serving wine is more of an art than a science
aesthetic seemed to steadily resonate from and then, who would have guessed, a glass of been to completely disrespect the pig, (and, therefore, to an extent open to
the walls, bare though they were. Having chilled red wine. the farmer and the terroir on which the two interpretation), there is an agreed
been recently heartbroken (hindsight says the collaborated so successfully. temperature range within which sommeliers
City of Love was a counter-intuitive choice in The restaurant was Le Chateaubriand, tend to work. And though cellar storage
Iñaki Aizpitarte’s standard-bearing neo- The same, it would seem, was true of the would once have kept wines south of 15°C,
wine. For red wines fail to either do justice reds on a shelf in a room that is at least 20°C
to either their maker or to their own aromas start to run into trouble. Chilled reds become
and specific complexities – to their reach their more focused; their structure remains intact.
full potential – when, as so often, served at It helps maintain their freshness and acidity,
‘room temperature’ in rooms that are too hot.

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