Chocolate

200 ENJOY

Paul A. Young

BROWNIE PUDDING with

sea-salted caramel, tea, and figs

This sticky-toffee-brownie pudding hybrid is the ultimate comfort food. It
incorporates my award-winning sea-salted caramel, along with chocolate, figs,
and tea. If you want to make this the day before, brush the top of the pudding
with warm caramel as soon as it comes out of the oven, for a sticky toffee glaze.

SERVES 10–12 1Preheat the oven to 180°C (350°F/Gas 4). Grease the tin, dust
lightly with flour, and set aside. Combine the tea, bicarbonate of
WHAT YOU NEED soda, and figs in a medium saucepan over a medium heat. Bring to
the boil, and then immediately reduce the heat. Simmer for 2 minutes.
TIME
50–55 mins 2Remove the pan from the heat and allow the mixture to cool. Once
cooled, mix well with a wooden spoon, until the pieces of fig break
SPECIAL EQUIPMENT down and the mixture forms a paste.
20 x 25cm (8 x 10in) cake tin
3In a large bowl, cream together the butter, sugar, and golden syrup,
INGREDIENTS using a wooden spoon. Add the eggs and whisk together until the
90g (3¼ oz) unsalted butter, mixture is smooth. Mix in the flour and salt until combined.

softened, plus extra for greasing 4Melt the dark chocolate in a heatproof bowl set over a pan of
simmering water, stirring until smooth. Do not allow the base
180g (6¼ oz) self-raising flour, of the bowl to touch the water. Add the melted chocolate to the flour
plus extra for dusting mixture, along with the fig paste, and mix well.

250ml (9fl oz) strong English 5Pour the batter into the prepared tin. Bake for 30–35 minutes until
breakfast tea the pudding has risen and the middle is still slightly gooey.

1 tsp bicarbonate of soda 6Meanwhile, prepare the sauce. Melt the butter, sugar, and salt
in a small saucepan over a medium heat, stirring well to combine.
200g (7oz) dried figs, chopped Simmer for 5 minutes. Remove from the heat and add the double
cream and dark milk chocolate, whisking well to combine.
90g (3¼ oz) dark muscovado sugar
7When ready to serve, cut the pudding into 10–12 pieces and plate
90g (3¼ oz) golden syrup them up individually. Pour over the warm sauce, decorate with cocoa
nibs, if using, and serve with clotted cream. You can store the pudding,
2 medium eggs covered in the fridge, for up to 5 days, or freeze it for up to 3 months.

½ tsp sea salt flakes TIP If dark milk chocolate isn’t available, use good-quality
dark chocolate.
150g (5½ oz) good-quality dark
chocolate, 70% cocoa, chopped

roasted cocoa nibs, to decorate
(optional)

clotted cream, to serve

For the sauce
200g (7oz) unsalted butter

200g (7oz) dark muscovado sugar

1 tsp sea salt flakes

200ml (7fl oz) double cream

50g (1¾ oz) dark milk chocolate,
60% cocoa, chopped





Piano key cookies 203

Bill McCarrick

PIANO KEY COOKIES

With delicate layers of lemon and chocolate biscuit, these beautiful cookies

melt in the mouth. They may seem intricate, but you can get impressive

results from a simple dough using this layer, slice, and freeze method.

MAKES 30 1To make the white dough, sift the dry ingredients into a mixing bowl.
Beat the butter and lemon juice in a food processor until light and
WHAT YOU NEED creamy. Add the dry ingredients to the processor, along with the lemon
zest and vanilla extract. Pulse the mixture until a dough forms. Remove
TIME from the processor, wrap in cling film, and chill.
11⁄4 hrs, plus chilling and freezing
2To make the chocolate dough, sift the flour and cocoa powder into
INGREDIENTS a mixing bowl. Beat the butter and icing sugar in the processor until
2 egg whites, beaten light and creamy. Add the flour and cocoa powder and pulse until a
For the white dough dough forms. Remove from the processor, wrap in cling film, and chill.
240g (8½ oz) plain flour, plus extra
3On a lightly floured surface, knead the white dough for 5–10 minutes
for dusting until smooth. Form into a flat rectangle using your hands. Place the
65g (2¼ oz) icing sugar dough between 2 large sheets of baking parchment and roll into a large
pinch of sea salt rectangle about 3–5mm (⅛–¼ in) thick. Remove the top layer of
200g (7oz) unsalted butter, cold parchment and lift the dough, with the parchment beneath, onto a
zest of 1 lemon and juice of baking sheet. Brush the top of the dough with the beaten egg white.

½ lemon 4Knead and roll out the chocolate dough in the same way, and place it
2 tsp vanilla extract on top of the white dough. Use a knife to neaten and trim the edges
For the chocolate dough so that the 2 layers are the same size. Brush the top of the chocolate
190g (6¾ oz) plain flour layer with the egg whites, and place the dough in the freezer for 1 hour.
50g (1¾ oz) cocoa powder
200g (7oz) unsalted butter, cold 5Remove the dough from the freezer. Use a large, sharp knife to cut
65g (2¼ oz) icing sugar the dough in half lengthways. Brush the top of one half with egg, and
carefully layer the other half on top, so that the colours alternate.

6Cut the dough in half lengthways again, brush the top of one layer
with egg wash, and place the other half on top. You should now have
a long, thin strip of 8 layers of dough in alternating colours. Place in the
freezer for 1 hour.

7Remove the dough from the freezer. Cut vertical slices lengthways
through the layers, about 3–5mm (⅛–¼ in) thick. Then, cut these
long strips into 4cm (1½in) square cookies. Place on a lined baking sheet.
Preheat the oven to 180ºC (350ºF/Gas 4) and allow the cookies to come
to room temperature.

8Bake the cookies for 12–15 minutes until just turning golden brown.
Once cooked, allow the cookies to cool completely before removing
them from the baking sheet. You can store the cookies in an airtight
container at room temperature for up to 5 days.



Duck ragu with 100 per cent chocolate 205

Micah Carr-Hill

DUCK RAGU with

100 per cent chocolate

Adding port and chocolate to this ragu adds richness and depth of flavour,
as well as a little fruitiness. Port and chocolate have a great affinity – the
sweetness and fruit flavours of the wine complement the bitterness and
fruitiness of the 100 per cent chocolate.

SERVES 6–8 1Preheat the oven to 130°C (250ºF/Gas ½). Prick the duck all over with
the needle. Melt the butter in the casserole over a medium heat. Add
WHAT YOU NEED the duck to the pan, with the giblets, if available, and season. Brown the
duck all over. Remove to a plate, reserving the fat.
TIME
3 hrs 40 mins 2Add the onions to the casserole and fry in the residual duck fat. Add
the celery and carrots, and fry until softened and lightly browned.
SPECIAL EQUIPMENT Meanwhile, heat the white wine in a saucepan over a medium–high
meat needle heat, until reduced by two-thirds, to approximately 125ml (4fl oz).
large flameproof casserole dish
3Once the vegetables have softened, add the milk and a sprinkle of
INGREDIENTS nutmeg to the casserole. Simmer, stirring occasionally, until the milk
1 whole duck, approximately has almost evaporated. Add the reduced wine, then crush the tomatoes
over the casserole using your hands. Stir to combine and season to taste.
1.2kg (1¾ lb), with giblets
(if available) 4Place the duck, breast-side up, on top of the vegetables, and put the
50g (1¾ oz) unsalted butter lid on. Place in the oven. After 1 hour, turn the duck over. After
sea salt and freshly ground pepper another hour, turn the duck breast-side up again.
2 large onions, finely chopped
3 celery stalks, finely chopped 5After another hour, check to see if the duck is cooked by pulling
4 large carrots, finely chopped away a leg – it should come away easily. If not, return to the oven
375ml (13fl oz) white wine for 10 minutes before retesting. Once cooked, remove from the oven
300ml (10fl oz) whole milk and allow the ragu to cool until the duck is cold enough to handle.
nutmeg, freshly grated
400g can plum tomatoes 6Shred the duck meat and add it back into the casserole. The meat
35g (1¼ oz) dark chocolate, should come away from the carcass easily, due to the long cooking
100% cocoa, roughly chopped time. If using giblets, chop these up, shred the neck meat, and add back
3 tbsp good-quality port into the casserole.
flat-leaf parsley, roughly chopped,
to garnish 7Give the casserole a good stir and add 150–300ml (5–10fl oz) boiling
water to loosen the ragu. Skim off any excess fat from the surface of
the sauce. Check for seasoning.

8Gradually add the chocolate, one piece at a time, allowing it to melt
into the ragu. Taste after each piece, judging the change in flavour and
whether to add more or less according to taste. Finally, add the port
and stir to combine. Serve with pasta, rice, courgetti, potatoes (baked,
sautéed, or mashed), or a green salad.

206 ENJOY

Maricel E. Presilla

COURGETTES IN CUBAN-
STYLE TOMATO SOFRITO

with cacao–almond picada

Adding cocoa nibs to the picada lends texture, depth, and backbone
to this dish. Choose a dark chocolate with herbal, grassy undertones
for the picada – this will accentuate the fresh flavours of the vegetables.

SERVES 4 1Heat the oil in a heavy-based frying pan over a medium heat.
Add the garlic and fry for 10 seconds. Add the onion and fry,
WHAT YOU NEED stirring regularly, for 4 minutes.

TIME 2Add the tomatoes, cumin, oregano, cayenne, allspice, and salt
40 mins to the pan. Stir well to mix, and simmer for 3 minutes.

INGREDIENTS 3Add the courgettes and cook for a further 2 minutes. Meanwhile,
3 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil crush the ingredients for the picada together using a large mortar
and pestle or food processor, until they form a coarse paste.
3–4 garlic cloves, crushed
4Add the picada into the tomato mixture, along with the warm
1 medium onion, thinly sliced water or stock, and stir to combine. Return to the boil, then lower
the heat and cover.
225g (8oz) cherry tomatoes,
coarsely chopped 5Simmer for 5 minutes. Season to taste. Serve hot, stirred through
rice or spooned over shredded cabbage, drizzled with a little olive
½ tsp ground cumin oil and sprinkled with salt, to taste.

1 tbsp fresh oregano leaves

¼ tsp ground cayenne pepper

pinch of allspice

1 tsp sea salt

4 medium courgettes,
cut into 1cm (½ in) cubes

240ml (8fl oz) warm water or
chicken stock

For the picada
30g (1oz) roasted cocoa nibs

12 blanched almonds, lightly
toasted

60g (2oz) good-quality dark
chocolate, 70–80% cocoa,
finely chopped

1–2 garlic cloves, peeled

large handful flat-leaf parsley,
finely chopped, plus extra
to garnish



208 ENJOY

Maricel E. Presilla

GUATEMALAN-SPICED
CACAO DRINK

This version of a traditional Guatemalan drink is a light,
non-dairy alternative to hot chocolate. You can drink it as it is,
with little pieces of spice and cocoa, or strain it through a fine
mesh sieve for a smooth, velvety drink.

SERVES 3–4 1Heat a medium, heavy-bottomed frying pan over a medium
heat. Add the cocoa nibs and dry-fry for a few seconds until
WHAT YOU NEED fragrant. Transfer to a bowl.

TIME 2Add the allspice, cinnamon sticks, and peppercorns to the pan
20 mins and toast lightly for a few seconds until fragrant. Remove from
the pan and grind to a fine powder in the grinder.
SPECIAL EQUIPMENT
spice or coffee grinder, 3Add the ground spices to the toasted cocoa nibs. Stir to combine,
and continue to grind the mixture together until you achieve
or small food processor a fine consistency – you’ll need to do this in 2–3 batches.

INGREDIENTS 4Heat 1 litre (1¾ pints) water in a medium saucepan over a
85g (3oz) cocoa nibs high heat. Add the sugar and stir to dissolve. Bring to the boil.
4 whole allspice berries Reduce the heat and add the ground cocoa–spice mixture.
2 cinnamon sticks
¼ tsp black peppercorns 5Whisk vigorously to combine. You can transfer the mixture
100g (3½ oz) brown loaf sugar to a blender to help to create a creamy texture, if desired. If
preferred, strain through a tea strainer or small sieve. Serve hot.
or muscovado sugar

MORE TO TRY

CREAMY HOT CHOCOLATE
• Serves 1

Vary the cocoa percentage of the
chocolate according to your individual
preference. Combine 250ml (9fl oz)
whole milk, 1 tbsp cocoa powder,
and 50g (1¾ oz) good-quality dark
chocolate, finely chopped, with 1 tbsp
double cream and 1 tsp caster sugar
in a small, heavy-based saucepan. Bring
to the boil over a medium heat, whisking
constantly. Serve.

SPANISH HOT CHOCOLATE
• Serves 1

Place 1 tsp cornflour and 1 tsp cocoa
powder in a small, heavy-based
saucepan. Measure out 250ml (9fl oz)
whole milk and whisk a little into the
cornflour mix to make a smooth paste.
Add the rest of the milk, along with 50g
(1¾ oz) good-quality milk chocolate,
finely chopped, and bring to the boil over
a medium heat, whisking constantly until
smooth. Once it bubbles, reduce to a low
simmer and cook for a further 2–3
minutes, whisking occasionally. Serve.

MEXICAN HOT CHOCOLATE
• Serves 1

Combine 250ml (9fl oz) whole milk,
1 tbsp cocoa powder, and 50g (1¾ oz)
good-quality dark chocolate, finely
chopped, with 1 tsp caster sugar, ¼ tsp
vanilla extract, ¼ tsp ground cinnamon,
and a pinch of chilli powder in a small,
heavy-based saucepan. Bring to the boil
over a medium heat, whisking constantly.
Taste and add a little more chilli powder
if desired. Once it bubbles, reduce to a
low simmer and cook for a further 2–3
minutes, whisking occasionally. Serve.

210 ENJOY

A collection of...

FONDUES

Smooth and rich, fondue is the simplest way to enjoy chocolate as
a dessert. The “dippers” are almost as important as the fondue – use
fruit, or try small slices of firm cake, biscotti, or pretzels. Prepare your
toppers and skewers before you start making the fondue, as it comes
together very quickly. All of these recipes serve 4 people.

DARK CHOCOLATE WHITE CHOCOLATE
AND COCONUT
1Finely chop 175g (6oz) good-quality dark
chocolate (60% cocoa). Place it into a medium 1Finely chop 250g (9oz) good-quality white
heavy-based saucepan, with 125ml (4½ fl oz) chocolate. Place it into a medium heavy-based
whipping cream, 1 tbsp unsalted butter, 1 tbsp saucepan, along with 125ml (4½ fl oz) whipping
caster sugar, and a pinch of salt. cream and 1 tbsp coconut-flavoured liqueur.

2Heat the mixture slowly over a medium heat, 2Heat the mixture slowly over a medium heat,
stirring constantly, until the chocolate has melted stirring constantly, until the chocolate has melted
and the mixture is smooth, glossy, and warm. and the mixture is smooth, glossy and warm.

3Transfer to a fondue set to keep warm, or serve 3Transfer to a fondue set to keep warm, or serve
immediately in a bowl with dippers alongside. immediately in a bowl with the dippers alongside.

MINI S’MORES A collection of... fondues 211

1Finely chop 240g (8oz) good-quality milk chocolate. CHOCOLATE AND
Place it into a medium heavy-based saucepan with PEANUT BUTTER
160ml (5½ fl oz) whipping cream.
1FInely chop 75g (2½ oz) good-quality dark
2Heat the mixture slowly over a medium heat, stirring chocolate (60% cocoa). Place it into a medium
constantly, until the chocolate has melted and the heavy-based saucepan, along with 150ml whipping
mixture is smooth, glossy, and warm. cream and 75g (2½ oz) smooth peanut butter.

3Divide the mixture evenly between 4 heatproof 2Heat the mixture slowly over a medium heat,
ramekins. Gently place small marshmallows on stirring constantly, until the chocolate has melted
the surface of each fondue, in concentric circles, so that and the mixture is smooth, glossy, and warm.
they are entirely covered.
3Transfer to a fondue set to keep warm,
4Place the ramekins on a baking sheet and or serve immediately in a bowl with the
grill under a high heat for 1–2 minutes until the dippers alongside.
marshmallows are well browned (watch them carefully).
Serve each bowl with dippers alongside.

212 ENJOY

Paul A. Young

STEM GINGER AND
FENNEL ICE CREAM

I've found that the palate cannot appreciate the complex flavours of dark
chocolate when it is used cold in ice cream. I experimented with milk chocolate,
and was blown away by how well its flavours worked served super-cold.

SERVES 6 1Prepare the ice-cream maker as per the instructions. In a large
bowl, whisk together the egg yolks and sugar until smooth. In
WHAT YOU NEED a medium saucepan over a medium heat, bring the milk and
cream to a simmer.
TIME
20 mins, plus cooling, churning, 2Transfer the milk and cream mixture into a heatproof jug and pour
into the egg mixture in a thin stream, whisking well. Once combined,
and overnight freezing strain the mixture back into the saucepan using a sieve.

SPECIAL EQUIPMENT 3Cook the mixture over a medium–low heat for 2–3 minutes, stirring
ice-cream maker constantly, until it is thick enough to coat the back of a spoon.

2.5 litre (4⅓ pint) shallow, 4Remove the pan from the heat and add the chocolate, whisking well
freezer-proof lidded until combined. Leave to cool completely.
airtight container
5Pour the cooled mixture into the ice-cream maker and churn until
INGREDIENTS thick. Meanwhile, chop the ginger into small pieces and combine
6 egg yolks with the fennel seeds.

100g (3½ oz) unrefined golden 6Once the ice cream is ready, mix in the ginger and fennel seeds,
caster sugar transfer to an airtight container, and freeze overnight. Remove
from the freezer 20 minutes before serving. You can store the ice
250ml (9fl oz) whole milk cream for 1–2 months in the freezer.

250ml (9fl oz) double cream

75g (2½ oz) good-quality
milk chocolate, 40%
cocoa, chopped

50g (1¾ oz) crystallized
stem ginger

20g (¾ oz) fennel seeds,
roughly chopped





Chocolate and honey sorbet 215

Dom Ramsey

CHOCOLATE AND
HONEY SORBET

This sorbet has all the flavour and texture of a creamy chocolate ice
cream, but it has the benefit of being completely dairy-free and – provided
you have access to an ice-cream maker – it is incredibly easy to make.

SERVES 4–6 1Prepare the ice-cream maker as per the instructions. Heat the sugar
and 700ml (1⅛ pints) water in a saucepan over a low heat, stirring
WHAT YOU NEED occasionally, until the sugar dissolves. Increase the heat to medium and
simmer for a further 5 minutes. Remove from the heat.
TIME
20–25 mins, plus cooling, chilling, 2Start adding the chocolate to the pan, a little at a time. Whisk the
mixture vigorously after each addition, to incorporate the chocolate
and freezing into the syrup. Repeat until all the chocolate has been added.

SPECIAL EQUIPMENT 3Add the honey and salt to the mixture, and whisk to combine. Pour
ice-cream maker the syrup into a large heatproof bowl. Leave to cool completely, then
chill until cold.
1.5 litre (2¾ pint) shallow
freezer-proof lidded 4Pour the mixture into the ice-cream maker and churn for 30–40
airtight container minutes, as per the instructions. Once churned, transfer the sorbet
to an airtight container and freeze for 3–4 hours, or preferably
INGREDIENTS overnight. Serve in chilled bowls.
200g (7oz) vanilla sugar
TIP If you can’t find vanilla sugar, mix together 200g (7oz) caster sugar
400g (14oz) good-quality dark and ½ tsp good-quality vanilla extract.
chocolate, 70% cocoa, chopped

2 tbsp honey

pinch of sea salt

216 ENJOY

Jesse Carr

CRICKETS OF THE NIGHT

This is inspired by the Grasshopper, a classic cocktail from 1920s New
Orleans. I love the recipe, but until recently it was hard to find good-quality
crème de cacao or crème de menthe. Using these liqueurs with intense
absinthe and chocolate creates a more complex and interesting drink.

SERVES 1 1About 5 minutes before making the cocktail, place the
glass in the freezer.
WHAT YOU NEED
2Remove the glass from the freezer. Pour the liquid ingredients
TIME into the shaker. Add the mint, then fill the shaker with ice cubes.
5 mins, plus freezing
3Place the lid on the shaker, and shake hard for about 20 seconds,
SPECIAL EQUIPMENT until you hear the ice crushing.
coupe glass
cocktail shaker 4Place a tea strainer over the glass. Double-strain the cocktail
tea strainer by pouring it through the shaker’s integral shaker and then
through the tea strainer into the glass.
INGREDIENTS
30ml (1fl oz) crème de cacao 5Serve immediately, topped with dark chocolate shavings and
20ml (¾ fl oz) crème de menthe a sprig of mint.
10ml (¼ fl oz) absinthe
30ml (1fl oz) double cream
15ml (½ fl oz) VSOP Cognac
small handful of fresh mint,

plus extra to garnish
ice cubes
good-quality dark chocolate

shavings, 60% cocoa



218 Glossary

GLOSSARY

BEAN-TO-BAR CHOCOLATE COUVERTURE ROLL REFINER THEOBROMINE
Chocolate made directly from Chocolate designed for use by A machine with multiple A chemical found in cocoa
cocoa beans by one company, chefs and chocolatiers, usually rollers used to refine chocolate. beans that has been found
rather than several. with a high cocoa butter content. to release endorphins in the
SEIZING brain, increase heart rate,
BLENDED CHOCOLATE CRIOLLO Causing chocolate to become and relax blood vessels.
Chocolate made with beans of One of the main cacao varieties, a thick, lumpy mass, seizing
more than one variety or origin. Criollo is considered to produce is the result of moisture TRAMPING
some of the best-quality cocoa coming into contact with A technique for drying cocoa
CHOCOLATE MAKER beans in the world. liquid chocolate. beans: farm workers walk
A person or company who through the beans, turning
makes chocolate products DARK MILK CHOCOLATE SINGLE-ESTATE CHOCOLATE them with their feet to ensure
directly from cocoa beans. Chocolate made with milk Made with cocoa beans from even drying.
solids and a higher cocoa one estate or plantation,
CHOCOLATIER content than traditional single-estate chocolate bars TRUFFLES
A person who makes bars, milk chocolate. are created to showcase the Small balls of ganache that
truffles, filled chocolates, and unique flavours of that region. have been dipped and/or
other chocolate confections DUTCH-PROCESS rolled in cocoa powder,
from pre-made chocolate. COCOA POWDER SINGLE-ORIGIN CHOCOLATE nuts, or other ingredients.
Cocoa powder which has been Chocolate bars made with
COCOA BUTTER treated to reduce acidity, beans from one country TREE-TO-BAR CHOCOLATE
A naturally occurring fat giving it a nutty flavour. of origin. See also Chocolate created by makers
found inside cocoa beans. Blended chocolate. who grow and harvest cacao,
Cocoa butter is often added to FILLED CHOCOLATES and process the beans into
chocolate to make it smoother Thin chocolate shells filled TEMPERING chocolate bars themselves.
and easier to work with. with ganache, praline, The process of melting and
or other ingredients. cooling chocolate at precise TRINITARIO
COCOA CAKE temperatures, in order to A variety of cacao cross-bred
The solid cocoa mass left FORASTERO achieve a glossy sheen and from Criollo and Forastero;
behind after cocoa butter is The most widespread a sharp “snap” when the named after the island of
removed from pressed beans. variety of cocoa bean, chocolate is broken. Trinidad, where it originated.
generally cultivated for
COCOA NIBS mass-produced chocolate. THEOBROMA CACAO WINNOWING
Pieces of shelled cocoa The scientific name for The process of removing the
bean, usually roasted. GANACHE the cacao tree, meaning outer shells from cocoa beans,
A mixture of chocolate, cream, “food-of-the-gods cacao”. leaving the nibs behind.
COCOA SOLIDS and sometimes butter. Used
A term used on chocolate in truffles, filled chocolates, A NOTE ON COCOA VS CACAO
packaging to describe the and cakes. The words “cocoa” and “cacao” are used almost interchangeably
percentage cocoa content, in the chocolate industry today to refer to the fruit of Theobroma
usually including both cocoa LECITHIN cacao. (For a note on word origins, see p15.) For the sake
beans and cocoa butter. A natural emulsifier that of clarity, this book uses cacao when referring to the farms,
helps bind the ingredients plantations, trees, pods, and beans prior to fermentation,
CONCHING in chocolate together. and cocoa thereafter.
The process of stirring
liquid chocolate over a MELANGER
prolonged period of time, A grinding machine designed
in order to develop the to grind and refine cocoa
flavour of the chocolate. nibs into liquid chocolate.

Index 219

INDEX grinding 44–45, 144–47 burlap sacks 38, 39
growing cacao 30–31 buttermilk: dark chocolate and
Page numbers in bold refer to recipes; page numbers harvesting 24, 27, 32–33
in italics refer to illustrations. Hispaniola 66 stout cake 180
Kerafat 89
A aroma 126, 127, 128 origins of 98, 115 C
Arriba Nacional 29, 72, 73, 78 origins of name 15
absinthe: crickets of the night 216 artificial additives 98 Porcelana 28, 74, 75, 78 cacahuateros 16
Academy of Chocolate Awards artisan chocolates 13 refining 25, 44–45 cacao-almond picada,
Asia 13, 26 roasting 40–41, 140–41
63, 132 Sanchez 66 Maricel E. Presilla 206
winner 158 India 94, 139 sorting the beans 38–39 cacao beans 24–25, 26,
achiote seeds 16 origins of cacao 18–19 sterilization 39, 41
addiction, chocolate 120 Philippines 27, 90–91 storing 135 34–35
Africa 58–61, 100, 115 Vietnam 92, 100 Theobroma cacao 15, 26–29, 30 Arriba Nacional 29, 72, 73, 78
Democratic Republic of Congo Askinosie, Shawn 62, 90 tramping 24, 37, 87 Belanda 89
Askinosie Chocolate 82 turning 64 Beniano 79
(DRC) 63 astringency 47, 128 varieties 26–27, 28–29 CCN-51 29, 72, 73, 78
Ghana 52, 59, 110 Australia 95 winnowing 42–43 drying 24, 37, 65
Ivory Coast 52, 58, 59, 110 Austria 20 winnowing at home 142–43 fermenting 24, 32, 36–37, 38
Madagascar 60–61, 139, 167 Aztec people 14–16, 20, 90 see also Criollo cacao beans; growing cacao 30–31
origins of cacao 18–19 harvesting 24, 27, 32–33
Tanzania 62 B Forastero cacao beans; Hispaniola 66
agave nectar 112 Trinitario cacao beans Kerafat 89
ageing chocolate 10, 25, 149, 159 Ba Ria, Vietnam 92 Belanda 89 origins of 98, 115
agrotourism 83 Bahia, Brazil 76 Belcolade 52 origins of name 15
air bubbles 51 bain-maries 150, 152 Belgium 20, 52, 116 Porcelana 28, 74, 75, 78
Åkesson, Bertil 61 baking chocolate 166 Ben Tre, Vietnam 92 Sanchez 66
Åkesson’s Organic 61, 89 Bali 88, 89 Beni, Bolivia 79 Theobroma cacao 24, 26–29, 30
all-chocolate Swiss brioche 190–91 balsamic glaze, cherry and chocolate Beniano 79 tramping 24, 37, 87
allspice: Guatemalan-spiced cacao berries 113 turning 64
mousse with 182 Big Island, Hawaii 64–65 varieties 26–27, 28–29
drink 208 Baracoa, Cuba 27, 71 biscuits see also cocoa beans; Criollo cacao
almond milk 107 bark, chocolate 156–57 baked dark chocolate
almonds Barry Callebaut 52 cheesecake 176 beans; Forastero cacao beans;
bars of chocolate 24–25, 114 piano key cookies 203 Trinitario cacao beans
cacao-almond picada 206 bitterness 47, 128 Cacao Growers Association of
chocolate macarons with red choosing 98 blends 103 Honduras (APROCACAHO) 80
making bars and slabs 154–55 blondies, white chocolate and Cacao Hunters 77
wine ganache 194–95 moulds 50 pecan 198 cacao pods 10, 27
flourless chocolate and almond origins of 20–21 bloom 99, 126, 134 harvesting the pods 32–35
batidor whisks 91 blueberry and white chocolate Cadbury 94
bundts 171 bean-to-bar chocolate 138–55 tartlet 197 caffeine 14
Amano 72 adding flavour to 148–49 Bocas Del Toro 84 cakes
Amazon rainforest 15, 26 breaking and winnowing 142–43 Bogotá, Colombia 77 chocolate brownies 198
Ambolikapiky 60, 61 grinding and conching 144–47 Bolivia 79, 110 dark chocolate and stout cake 180
The Americas 14, 15, 16, 18 history of 12 bonbons 99, 114 flourless chocolate and almond
makers 158–59 Brazil 18, 76 bundts 171
Bolivia 79, 110 making bars and slabs 154–55 breaking cocoa beans 25, 42–43 white chocolate and pecan
Brazil 76, 88, 110, 158 roasting cocoa beans 140–41 at home 142–43 blondies 198
Colombia 77 tempering 150–53 Breillet, Bruno 190–91, 194–95
Costa Rica 83, 110 beans 10, 24, 34, 35, 100, 138 Bretherton, Caroline 198
Ecuador 29, 72–73 Arriba Nacional 29, 72, 73, 78 brigadeiros 188
Hawaii 27, 64–65, 85 Belanda 89 Britain 18, 19, 20
Honduras 18, 80 Beniano 79 brownies
Mexico 82 blending 103 brownie pudding with sea-salted
Nicaragua 81 breaking 25, 42–43, 142–43 caramel, tea, and fig 200
origins of cacao 14–19 CCN-51 29, 72, 73, 78 chocolate brownies 198
Panama 84 drying 24, 37, 65 bubbles, air 51
Peru 78, 116 fermenting 24, 32, 36–37, 38 buffalo’s milk 102, 107
Venezuela 28, 74–75 from cacao tree to bundts, flourless chocolate and
anaerobic fermentation 36, 37 almond 171
anandamide 120 chocolate bar 24–25
Andes 15, 77, 78
Andhra Pradesh, India 94
antioxidants 112, 118
apricot jam: Sachertorte 178–79

220 INDEX

Cameroon 19 Chocolate Bonnat 88 cocoa shells 40, 41, 42, 43 crickets of the night 216
caramel Chocolate Ecstasy Tours 132 cocoa solid percentages 100, 166 Criollo 28, 70
chocolate houses 20, 21 cocoa tea 86, 143
brownie pudding with sea-salted chocolate kitchens 20 coconut liqueur: white chocolate hybrids 70, 74, 75
caramel, tea, and fig 200 Chocolaterie Robert 60 places grown 61, 75, 77, 80,
chocolates 13 and coconut fondue 210
chocolate dulce de leche coconut milk 107, 112 81, 83, 85, 86, 94, 95
profiteroles 193 choosing 99 coconut palm sugar 102, 105 varieties 28–29
filled chocolates 50, 114, 135, coffee roasters 41 Cuba 18, 27, 71
caramelized chocolate 109 Cognac: crickets of the night 216 cupaçu 27
Cargill 52, 76 164–65, 185 Colombia 18, 77 cupulate 27
Caribbean 26, 66–71, fresh coriander and lemon commodity trade 52–53 currency, chocolate as 16
conching 25, 45, 46–47, 139, 144–47
100, 139 chocolates 185 D
Cuba 27, 71 moulding chocolates 164–65 creation of process 21
Dominican Republic 66–67 rolling and dipping truffles 162–63 and flavourings 105, 107, 109 Daintree Estates 95
Grenada 68, 86–87 chocolatiers, Laurent Gerbaud 116–17 conching machines 46–47, 47 Damson Chocolate 158
origins of cacao 18–19 Chocolats Halba 80 condensed milk 44 Dandelion Chocolate 93
Saint Lucia 69 Chuao, Venezuela 28, 74, 75 brigadeiros 188 dark chocolate
Trinidad and Tobago 29, 70 Cinagra 60 confectionery chocolate 13, 101,
CariBeans 83 cinnamon: Guatemalan-spiced cacao all-chocolate Swiss brioche
Carletti, Francesco 20 104, 115 190–91
Carr, Jesse 216 drink 208 beans used for 66
Carr-Hill, Micah 176, 205 cioccolatieri 21 cheap confectionery chocolate 106 alternative sugar dark
Casa Luker 77 co-operatives 54 mass-produced 58, 59 chocolate 105
cauliflory crops 27 cocktail: crickets of the night 216 continuous tempering machine 49
CCN-51 29, 72, 73, 78 cocoa 14, 15 cookies, piano key 203 baked dark chocolate
certification 98 cocoa beans 10, 100, 138, 139 cooking with chocolate 166–67 cheesecake 176
Ceylon 18 Cooper, Pam and Bob 64
Chaco Canyon, New Mexico 15 blending 103 coriander: fresh coriander and lemon bark 157
Chantilly cream, profiteroles breaking 25, 42–43, 142–43 bean to bar 138–55
grinding 16, 26, 44–45, 144–47 chocolates 185 blueberry and white chocolate
with 192 refining 25, 44–45 Cortés, Hernán 20
cheesecake, baked dark chocolate roasting 25, 40–41, 42 Costa do Cacau, Brazil 76 tartlet 197
roasting at home 140–41 Costa Rica 14, 83, 110 brownie pudding with sea-salted
176 sorting the beans 38–39 courgettes in Cuban-style
cherry and chocolate mousse with sterilization 39, 41 caramel, tea, and fig 200
storing 135 tomato sofrito, cacao-almond picada 206
balsamic glaze 182 winnowing 25, 35, 42–43, 139 Maricel E. Presilla 206 cherry and chocolate mousse with
chestnut purée: white chocolate winnowing at home 142–43 couverture chocolate 52, 99, 152,
see also cacao beans and 166, 167 balsamic glaze 182
éclairs 193 craft chocolate 10, 100 chocolate and honey sorbet 215
chilli powder 148 individual varieties ageing chocolate 149 chocolate and peanut butter
cocoa butter 101, 138, 139 bean to bar 114
Mexican hot chocolate 209 chocolate blends 103 fondues 211
Chocablog 158 beans used for 66 dark chocolate 105 chocolate macarons with red
chocoholics 120 chocolate recipes 103, 106, 113 direct trade 54
Chocolat Madagascar 60 couverture chocolate 167 Fairtrade 12 wine ganache 194–5
chocolatales 79 crystal types in 48, 151 organic chocolate 111 chocolate sauce 192
chocolate bars 10, 114 history of using 21 packaging 50–51 chocolate soufflé with peanut
processing 108 roasting profiles 40
choosing 98 and texture 128 white chocolate 108 gianduja 172
making bars and slabs 154–55 cocoa cakes 108 cranberries: chocolate bark 156–57 cocoa solid percentages 166
moulds 50 Cocoa Life 94 cravings 120 colour of dark chocolate 99
origins 20–21 cocoa liquor 44 Crayfish Bay Estate 86–87 cooking with dark chocolate 167
overview of process 24–25 cocoa nibs 35, 44, 142 cream creamy hot chocolate 209
grinding and refining 44–45, Chantilly cream 192 dark chocolate and pistachio ice
ganache 160–61
144–57 cream cheese: baked dark chocolate cream profiteroles 193
Guatemalan-spiced cacao cheesecake 176 dark chocolate and stout cake 180
crème de cacao: crickets of the dark chocolate fondue 210
drink 208 night 216 dark chocolate spectrum 104–05
raw chocolate with cocoa nibs 113 crème de menthe: crickets of the duck ragu with 100 per cent
winnowing 42–43 night 216
cocoa pod borers 93 crème pâtissière: all-chocolate Swiss chocolate 205
cocoa powder 115 brioche 190–91 flavoured dark chocolate 105
cooking with 167 flourless chocolate and almond
raw cocoa powder 112
The Cocoa Research Centre 70 bundts 171
cocoa rolls 86, 86 fresh coriander and lemon

chocolates 185
health benefits 118, 119
ingredients 100–05, 144
maple and chocolate fondant with

sea salt 175
Mexican hot chocolate 209

Index 221

100% dark chocolate 104 eggs inclusions 44, 109 The Grenada Chocolate Company 68
100% raw dark chocolate 113 all-chocolate Swiss brioche making flavoured chocolate 146 grinders 44, 138, 144–45, 147
percentage of cocoa solids 100 190–91 powdered 44, 105, 107, 109, grinding cocoa nibs 44–45,
raw dark chocolate 113 chocolate macarons with red wine
recipes for making 144 ganache 194–95 146, 148 144–47, 148
Sachertorte 178–79 dark chocolate and stout cake 180 flourless chocolate and almond Grupo CONACADO 66
single-origin 103, 104 maple and chocolate fondant with Guatemalan-spiced cacao drink,
unrefined dark chocolate 105 sea salt 175 bundts 171
wild garlic truffles 186 Sachertorte 178–79 flow-wrapping machines 51 Maricel E. Presilla 208
Davao region, Philippines 90, 91 stem ginger and fennel ice cream Flower, Charlotte 185, 186 Guayas, Ecuador 72
defects in chocolates 99 212 flowers, edible 109 Guevara, Ernesto “Che” 71
Democratic Republic of Congo 63 foil 50
deodorizing cocoa butter 108 El Ceibo 79 fondants: maple and chocolate H
Diamond Chocolate Company 68 El Manatí, Mexico 15
digital food thermometers 139, endorphins 119 fondant with sea salt 175 Hampton Court Palace, London 20
Enterprise Coopérative Kimbre fondues 210–11 harvesting cacao 27, 32–33
150–53
direct trade 54 (ECOOKIM) 58 chocolate and peanut butter overview of the process 24
disease, Witches’ Broom 70, 76 equatorial belt 13, 26 fondue 211 Hawaii 27, 64–65, 85
Dole 85 Equatorial Guinea 59 hazelnuts: cherry and chocolate
Dominican Republic 18, 66–67 equipment, making dark chocolate dark chocolate fondue 210
Domori 116 mini s’mores fondue 210 mousse with balsamic
dried fruit 148 138–39 white chocolate and coconut glaze 182
Escoffier, Auguste 21 health benefits 118–19, 120
chocolate bark 156–57 Esmereldas, Ecuador 73 fondue 210 raw chocolate 112
drinks ethical chocolate 68 Forastero cocoa beans 29, 70 Henri Pittier National Park,
exporters 53 Venezuela 75
cocoa 14, 15 places grown in Africa 59, 63 Hershey’s 82
creamy hot chocolate 209 F places grown in Asia and Oceania Hillebrand, William 85
crickets of the night 216 Hispaniola cacao beans 66
drinking chocolate 16–17, 20 Fairtrade 12, 54, 55 89, 91, 93, 94, 95 history of chocolate 14–21
Guatemalan-spiced cacao drink, Fairtrade Foundation 12, 55 places grown in North America Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam 92
Fazenda Camboa 76 Honduras 80
Maricel E. Presilla 208 fennel seeds: stem ginger and fennel 68, 82, 84 origins of cacao 17, 18
Mexican hot chocolate 209 places grown in South America honey
Spanish hot chocolate 209 ice cream 212 chocolate and honey sorbet 215
tsokolate 90 fermenting cacao beans 32, 76, 78 dark chocolate and stout cake 180
drying cacao beans 37, 65 varieties of 70, 72 hoppers 42
overview of the process 24 36–37, 38 France 18, 20 hot chocolate 115
duck ragu with 100 per cent overview of the process 24 free radicals 118 creamy hot chocolate 209
Fernando Pó (Bioko) 18, 19 fridges, storing chocolate in 134 Mexican hot chocolate 209
chocolate 205 figs: brownie pudding with fruit powders, freeze-dried 105, 107, Spanish hot chocolate 209
dulce de leche profiteroles, chocolate Hotel Chocolat 69
sea-salted caramel, tea, 109, 148 Houten, Casparus van 20, 21
193 and fig 200 Fruition Chocolate 66, 78 Hümbs, Christian 178–79, 192
Dutch-process cocoa powder 21, filled chocolates 13, 114 Fry (J.S.) & Sons 10, 21
fresh coriander and lemon I
115, 167 chocolates 185 G
Duval, Frank 116 moulding chocolates 50, 164–65 ice cream
storing filled chocolates 134, 135 ganache 21, 160–61, 180 dark chocolate and pistachio
E Flanagan, Lisabeth 175, 197 filled chocolates 164–65 ice cream profiteroles 193
flavanols 84, 118 red wine ganache 194–95 stem ginger and fennel
Earle, Jennifer 132–33 flavour truffles 162–63 ice cream 212
East India Company 94 adding flavours to chocolate white chocolate ganache 197
éclairs, white chocolate 193 148–49, 156–57 La Iguana 83
and ageing chocolate 149, 159 Gerbaud, Laurent 116 inclusions 44, 109
earthy flavours 129, 131 Germany 19, 20 India 94, 139
effects of chocolate-making Ghana 59, 110 Indonesia 27, 88–89, 92
process on 125 Ghana Cocoa Board 59 Ingemann 81
enhancing by roasting 40–41, 140 gianduja, peanut 172 ingredients of chocolate 98, 100–03
flavour notes 124, 127, 128 ginger: stem ginger and fennel ice
flavour wheels 128–29 dark chocolate 104–05
identifying 127 cream 212 milk chocolate 106–07, 139
pairing with flavours 130–31, 167 ginger biscuits: baked dark chocolate white chocolate 108–09, 139
raw chocolate 113 International Chocolate Awards 133
flavourings 108 cheesecake 176 International Cocoa Organization
flavoured raw chocolate 113 glazes
(ICCO) 110
balsamic glaze 182
chocolate glaze 175, 178–79
goat’s milk 102, 107
Graham, Bryan 172, 180
Great Taste Awards 132
Green, Mott 68
Grenada 68
Kim Russell 86–87

222 INDEX

International Genebank 70 marbled chocolate 155 N piano key cookies 203
Italy 20 Markham Valley, Papua New picada, cacao-almond 206
Ivory Coast 52, 58, 59, 110 Nestlé 52 Pipiltin Cocoa 89
Guinea 93 Nestlé, Henri 21 pistachios
J, K, L Marou Chocolate 92 The Netherlands 18, 19, 20
Mars 52, 76 nibs, cocoa 35, 42–45, 142 chocolate bark 156–57
Jakarta 89 marshmallows: mini s’mores dark chocolate and pistachio
Java 88 grinding and refining 44–45,
Kailua region, Hawaii 85 fondue 211 144–57 ice cream profiteroles 193
Karnataka, India 94 Martinique 19 pistachio and white chocolate
Kerafat cacao beans 89 Maruta, Samuel 92 Guatemalan-spiced cacao drink
Kerala, India 94 Mary II, Queen 20 208 truffles 189
Kimber, Edd 171 marzipan: Sachertorte 178–79 Planète Chocolat 116
Kona, Big Island, Hawaii 64–65 matcha powder 109 raw chocolate with cocoa nibs 113 Porcelana cacao beans 28, 74,
Kraft 52 Mayan people 14–15, 16, 83 Nicaragua 81
Kuna people 84 Mbeya region, Tanzania 62 North America 75, 78
Kyela District, Tanzania 62 Mekong Delta, Vietnam 92 Portugal 18, 19
labels, chocolate bar 98, 100, 166 melangers 45, 46 Costa Rica 14, 83, 110 pralines 13, 21
lactose 106 melting point of chocolate 120, Hawaii 27, 64–65, 85 premium chocolate 115
lavender: white chocolate and Honduras 17, 18, 80 preservatives 114
124 Nicaragua 81 Presilla, Maricel E. 206, 208
lavender truffles 188 Menakao 60 Panama 84 production, chocolate
lecithin 102, 146 Mesoamerica 14 nuts 109, 113, 148
Lehmann, Volker 79 Mexican hot chocolate 209 chocolate bark 156–57 24–25, 51
lemons: fresh coriander and lemon Mexico 14, 15, 16, 82 nut powders 112 profiteroles
Mexico City 16
chocolates 185 microorganisms 39, 41 O chocolate dulce de leche
Lindt, Rodolphe 21, 46 microwave tempering 152 profiteroles 193
Linnaeus, Carolus 15 milk chocolate Oahu 85
liquorice powder 148 Oceania dark chocolate and pistachio
London Chocolate Show 133 bark 157 ice cream profiteroles 193
Los Ríos, Ecuador 72 classic milk chocolate 106 Australia 95
lucuma powder 112 cocoa solid percentages 166 Indonesia 27, 88–89, 92 profiteroles with Chantilly
cooking with 167 origins of cacao 18–19 cream 192
M dark milk chocolate 107 Papua New Guinea 88, 89, 93
flavoured milk chocolate 107 Olmec people 14, 15, 16 Puerto Viejo, Costa Rica 83
macarons: chocolate macarons with history of 21 organic chocolate 12, 110–11
red wine ganache 194–5 ingredients 100–05, 106–07, Original Beans 63, 78, 79, 89 Q, R
The Original Hawaiian Chocolate
McCarrick, Bill 192, 203 139, 144 Quarshie, Tetteh 59
Madagascar 60–61, 116 making milk chocolate 144, 146 Factory 64–65, 85 Quayas River, Ecuador 72
milk chocolate spectrum 106–07 origins of chocolate 14–21 Queensland, Australia 95
flavour profiles 100, 129, 139, mini s’mores fondue 211 Rabot Estate 69
158, 167 raw milk chocolate 112 P rabots 37
Spanish hot chocolate 209 ragu: duck ragu with 100 per cent
history of cacao in 19, 60 stem ginger and fennel ice cream Pacari Chocolate 72, 73
organic cocoa 110 packaging 21, 50–51 chocolate 205
Madre Chocolate 85 212 palate cleansing 126 Ramsey, Dom 158–59, 215
magnetic separation 38 unusual milk chocolate 107 palm oil 101, 115 ramsons: wild garlic truffles 186
Maillard, Louis Camille 40 wild garlic truffles 186 Panama 84 raspberries
Maillard Reaction 40 milk crumb 44 Papua New Guinea 88, 89, 93
makers, chocolate 51, 53, 54, 98 milk powder 44, 102, 139, 146 Pará, Brazil 76 freeze-dried raspberry powder 148
bean-to-bar makers 158–59 chocolate recipes 103, 104, 107, Paso de la Amada, Mexico 14, 15 raspberry and sea salt truffles 189
craft chocolate 10, 12–13 passion fruit powder 148
Dom Ramsey 158–59 108, 144 peanut butter: chocolate and peanut
Malagos 90 Mindanao 90, 91
Malaysia 19, 92 Mokaya people 14, 15, 16 butter fondues 211
Manabí, Ecuador 72, 73 molinillo whisks 91 peanuts: chocolate soufflé with
Mano Chocolate 85 Mondelez International 52, 94
manufacturers 10, 52, 53 Montecristi Chocolate 72, 73 peanut gianduja 172
Manufaktura Czekolady 66 moods, and chocolate 119, 120 pecans
maple and chocolate fondant with moulds 117, 139, 139, 154–55
chocolate bark 156–57
sea salt 175 moulding at home 164–65 white chocolate and pecan
Maracaibo, Lake 74 professional moulding 25, 50–51
Maracaibo, Venezuela 15 Mourou, Vincent 92 blondies 198
marble slabs 49, 139, 153 mousse: cherry and chocolate percentages of cocoa solids 98,

mousse with balsamic glaze 182 100, 166
mucilage 34, 35 Peru 18, 78, 116
Peter, Daniel 21, 106
phenylethylamine 120
Philippines 18, 27, 90–91

Index 223

raw chocolate 112–13 Colombia 77 chocolate bark 157 vanillin 166
flavoured raw chocolate 113 Ecuador 29, 72–73, 100, 116, 129, grainy texture 128 vegan chocolate, raw chocolate 112
raw chocolate with cocoa nibs 113 raw chocolate 113 Venezuela 15, 18, 74–75
158, 167 texture wheel 128
red wine ganache 194–95 origins of cacao 15–19 Theo Chocolate 63 indigenous cacao 28
refining cocoa nibs 25, 44–45 Peru 78, 116 Theobroma Vietnam 19, 92, 100
religion, and cacao 16 Venezuela 28, 74–75 T. cacao 15, 24, 26–29, 30 Virunga Park, Democratic Republic
rice-milk 107 Spain 18, 20 T. grandiflorum 27
Río Azul 15 Spanish hot chocolate 209 theobromine 14, 119 of Congo 63
ripeness, testing pods for 32, 32 spices 105, 107, 148 and cravings 120
roasting cocoa beans 40–41 Sri Lanka 18, 19 thermometers 139, 150–53 W
sterilization 39, 41 Thirwell, Angus 69
at home 140–41 storage 134–35 Tien Giang, Vietnam 92 Waialua Estate 85
overview of the process 25 and bloom 99 tomatoes whisks, molinillo and batidor 91
roll refiners 45 stout: dark chocolate and stout courgettes in Cuban-style white chocolate
rotating-bowl tempering machine
cake 180 tomato 206 bark 157
49, 158 Success Alliance 92 duck ragu with 100 per cent blueberry and white chocolate
Rouge Chocolatier 66 sugar 44, 102, 119, 139, 145
Ruben David Suarez Abella chocolate 205 tartlet 197
chocolate recipes 103, 106, 108 touch 127 caramelized white chocolate 109
Complex 71 coconut palm sugar 102, 105 traceability 12, 54 classic white chocolate 108
Russell, Kim 86–87 confectionery chocolate 115 trade cooking with white chocolate 167
sugar substitutes 112, 113 flavoured white chocolate 109
S Sukrama farms 89 commodity trade chain 52–53 fresh coriander and lemon
Sulawesi 88, 89 direct trade 54
Sachertorte 178–79 Sumatra 88 Fairtrade 54, 55 chocolates 185
Saint Lucia 19, 69 Surabaya, East Java 88 tramping 24, 37, 87 ingredients 101–03, 108–09,
salt 148 sustainability 12 Trinidad and Tobago 18, 29, 70
sweatboxes 36, 37 The Trinidad and Tobago Fine 139, 144
brownie pudding with sea-salted sweeteners, natural 113 peanut gianduja 172
caramel, tea, and fig 200 Switzerland 20 Cocoa Company 70 pistachio and white chocolate
Trinitario cocoa beans
maple and chocolate fondant T truffles 189
with sea salt 175 places grown in Africa 61, 62 recipe to make 144
Tabasco, Mexico 82 places grown in Asia and Oceania Sachertorte 178–79
raspberry and sea salt tablea 90 white chocolate and coconut
truffles 189 Tamil Nadu, India 94 89, 91, 92, 93
Tanzania 62 places grown in North America fondue 210
Sambirano Valley, Madagascar tartlet, blueberry and white white chocolate and lavender
60, 61 66, 67, 68, 69, 70, 71, 80,
chocolate 197 81, 82, 83, 85 truffles 188
Sanchez cacao beans 66 tasting chocolate 124–25, 167 places grown in South America white chocolate and pecan
São Tomé and Príncipe 18, 19 76, 77, 78
sauce, chocolate 192 professional tasters 132–33 varieties 29 blondies 198
seeds 113 tasting parties 130 truffles 13, 114, 188–89 white chocolate éclairs 193
selection boxes 114 tasting wheels 128–29 brigadeiros 188 white chocolate spectrum 108–09
senses: sensory appeal 120 tasting with your senses 126–27 choosing truffles 99 white with inclusions 109
tea history of 21 white wine: duck ragu with
tasting chocolate with 126–27 brownie pudding with sea-salted moulds 50
sheep’s milk 102, 107 pistachio and white chocolate 100 per cent chocolate 205
shelf life 99, 134–35 caramel, tea, and fig 200 truffles 189 wholesalers 53
shells, cocoa bean 143 cocoa tea 86, 143 raspberry and sea salt truffles 189 wild garlic truffles 186
Sibu 83 temperature 139 rolling and dipping truffles Willie’s Cacao 78, 88
sieving cocoa beans 38 and chocolate storage 99, 126, 162–63 wine
single-origin chocolate 13, 139 storing truffles 134, 135
134, 135 white chocolate and lavender duck ragu with 100 per cent
dark chocolate 103, 104 and roasting beans 140 truffles 188 chocolate 205
slabs of chocolate 115, 154–55 and tempering chocolate 48, 151 wild garlic truffles 186
smell of chocolate 126, 127 tempering 48–49, 65, 126–27 tryptophan 120 red wine ganache 194–95
s’mores fondue, mini 211 at home 150–53 tsokolate 90 winnowing cocoa beans 42–43
Soconusco, Mexico 82 equipment 49, 51, 139
sofrito, courgettes in Cuban-style modern tempering 150–51 U, V at home 142–43
science of tempering 48 Witches’ Broom disease 70, 76
tomato 206 traditional tempering 152–53 Ulúa Valley, Honduras 80 wrapping chocolate 50–51
sorbet, chocolate and honey 215 tempering machines 49, 51, 158 United Fruit Company 83
soufflés: chocolate soufflé with Tenochtitlan 16 vanilla powder 102, 103, 106, 146 X, Y, Z
texture 127
peanut gianduja 172 white chocolate 108 Xoco Fine Chocolate 80
soured cream: baked dark chocolate xocoatl 17
Young, Paul A. 200, 212
cheesecake 176 Zotter 94
South America 26, 139

Bolivia 79, 110
Brazil 76, 88, 110, 158

224 Acknowledgments

Project Editor ABOUT THE AUTHOR
Martha Burley
Project Art Editor Dom Ramsey is a UK-based chocolate expert, bean-to-bar
chocolate maker, and the founder and editor of Chocablog,
Vicky Read the world’s longest-running blog about chocolate. A regular
Editor judge for international chocolate competitions, Dom founded
the award-winning chocolate company Damson Chocolate,
Alice Kewellhampton after experiments in his own kitchen.
Pre-Production Producers
Tony Phipps and Catherine Williams ACKNOWLEDGMENTS

Producer Dom Ramsey would like to thank:
Olivia Jeffries Margaux Benitah, Nat Bletter, Susana Cárdenas, Bob and Pam
Jackets Team Cooper, Tim Davies, Mireille Discher, Lee Donovan, Jennifer
Libby Brown and Harriet Yeomans Earle, Peter Galbavy, Laurent Gerbaud, Simon and Amy
Creative Technical Support Hewison, Spencer Hyman, Kate Johns, Hazel Lee, Harmony
Sonia Charbonnier and Tom Morse Marsh, Samuel Maruta, Kim Russell, and Angus Thirlwell.
Managing Art Editor
Christine Keilty DK would like to thank:
Managing Editor Sara Robin for photography styling and art direction,
Stephanie Farrow Jane Lawrie for food styling, Linda Berlin for prop styling,
Art Director Susannah Ireland for additional photography, Philippa Nash
Maxine Pedliham for design assistance, Amy Slack for editorial assistance,
Publishing Director Steve Crozier for retouching images, Corinne Masciocchi for
Mary-Clare Jerram proofreading, and Vanessa Bird for indexing.

Illustrations Vicky Read PICTURE CREDITS
Photography William Reavell
The publisher would like to thank the following for their
First published in Great Britain in 2016 by kind permission to reproduce their photographs.
Dorling Kindersley Limited (Key: a-above; b-below/bottom; c-centre; f-far; l-left; r-right; t-top)
10 Dorling Kindersley: Gary Ombler/Royal Botanic Gardens, Kew (bl). 21 Library
80 Strand, London, WC2R 0RL of Congress, Washington, D.C: (tr). 27 Dom Ramsey: (cr). 32 Dom Ramsey: (crb)
33 Dom Ramsey: (tc,br). 51 Dorling Kindersley: Gary Ombler / L'Artisan du Chocolat
Copyright © 2016 Dorling Kindersley Limited (cr). 51 Dorling Kindersley: Gary Ombler /L'Artisan du Chocolat (br). 60 Bertil
A Penguin Random House Company Åkesson: (crb). 64 Dom Ramsey: (br). 65 Dom Ramsey: (t,b,cr). 86 Dom Ramsey:
2 4 6 8 10 9 7 5 3 1 (br). 87 Dom Ramsey: (tl,ca,b). 116 Laurent Gerbaud: (br). 117 Laurent Gerbaud:
001—285447—Sep/2016 (cra,b). Dom Ramsey: (tl). 132 Jason Economides: (br). 133 The International
Chocolate Awards: Giovanna Gori (b). Dom Ramsey: (tl).
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No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored A NOTE ON THE MAPS
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photocopying, recording, or otherwise), without the indicates cacao-growing over a larger area – either within
political boundaries or over approximate climate-driven
prior written permission of the copyright owner. geographical areas.

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ISBN 978-0-2412-2943-9

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